104 f F E —Lindsy VanGelder Consider thisthemasterclass. and that’sagreatstart. the (and knees mother’s at our education fragrance our world doesnot.Mostofusgot in work it make to how knowing fragrance comesnaturally; to theseductivepowersof the in around sloshes and stains, strong ortoofaintly,spills, with yourbody,comesontoo sometimes interacts unpredictably stuff itself—theliquidthat aura, thereisalsotheactual But alongwiththatmysterious illusions,” saysFrédéricMalle. “As perfumers,wecreate 104 sur and car products ew frisson frisson v the practical, everyday everyday practical, the physical realm.Responding pulse pointsbehindthem), e r ounds fragrance. g r r y the the y lamour that that lamour yt o r f h luxu i delicious n

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105 105 106 1 Sn an innocence,alightnessofheart.” Moran’S TAKE:“Thesheerfloralshave petal-y, andwell-mannered.” Becker’S TAKE:“asytowear—young, red currant,peony,andfreesia 2. ElizabethArdenPr Moran’S TAKE:“Veryclean.” with citrusandmint.Itcanbeunisex.” Becker’S TAKE:“Atotalrefreshment, with bergamot,mint,andlemon 1. 1. Solid Perfume We like:MarcJacobs residue. greasy a leave fragrance; it can also interfere with the actual slight oily smell that can Con slip into an evening bag. this is the perfect size to benefit ofportability— hours andhasthe holds scentforseveral Pros: The waxy base Solid Perfume The fragrancecounteroffersalmostasmanychoicesStarbucks.Perfumer KilianHennessyhelpsusdecodeitall. ch s ri : if The wax has a st 60 percent of allure.com users say i f T a to wearwithsmokyeyes.” Becker’S TAKE:“Something orchid, toffee,andpatchouli 3. JimmyChoo,withtiger n Dior Colo Dior n 2 they day. every wear perfume e O st e g t utsid ne ne t y and asked Givaudan perfumer Calice Becker and scent expert Jan Moran to describe them. A scent’s name, ad, or bottle can influence its effect on us. We placed eight new ones in unmarked vessels Trésor Rollerball We like:Lancôme break. can tubes the Plus, so. or an only lasts scent the so oil, perfume of concentration low a Con for afull-sizebottle). a fragrance before going travel (andfortesting size makesthisidealfor Pros: Thediminutive Roller Ball Hot,with R 3 o s ya : : R le, oller balls use use balls oller glass glass to bethecenterofattention.” Moran’s take:“Forwomanwholikes down SunsetBoulevard.” lady mightflyinfromParisforawalk Becker’s take:“Thischic,coolyoung freesia, lime,andtonkabean 5. VersaceVanitas,withtiareflower, out; agreentonegivesitfreshness.” Moran’s take:“Roseandvioletjump personality, butinagoodway.” Becker’s take:“Ithasastrong with violet,rose,andappleblossom 4. MarcJacobsDAIsyEauSoFresh, floral bouquet,feminineandromantic.” Moran’s take:“Oh,pretty.It’ssoft hour hour 4 e t Cream Paris PerfumedBody We like:Balenciaga the original. like apoorimitationof make thelotionsmell tweaks cansometimes into acream.These color orscentwhenput ingredients change Con: you love and softer skin. Pro Scented Cream s : Certain fragrance You get a scent 5 h e B so the scent is likely likely is scent the so Cons: Powderrubsoff, sensuous. arms, andlegsfeels along yourdécolletage, just theactofdustingit Pro: It’sluxurious— After BathPowder Mademoiselle Fresh We like:ChanelCoco it canbemessy. applying And of hours. couple a after fade Scented Powder o 6 Mor Becker’s take:“Sassyandfruity.” guava, pinkgrapefruit,andhydrangea 6. BanRepublicWildbloom,with Moran’S take:“Ithasjoiedevivre.” Becker’s take:“Aboho-chicquality.” tangerine, jasmine,andcoconutwater 8. VeraWngPreppyPrincess,with it Mor party.” cocktail a before and tennis, Be with rosebud, ginger lily, and mandarin 7. IsseyMiyakL’EaudFlorale, white flowerstingedwithtropicalfruit.” t makes me think of garden parties.” parties.” garden of think me makes ck a a er’ n’ n’ tl s s s

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Love Story Where’s the love? It may lie in a bottle­ of the new powdery floral fragrance Love, Chloé. We take Old Spice a closer look. —ALISON CAPORIMO THE CHAIN Perhaps the least controversial The rose-gold chain dispatch from the Middle East in looks like the strap on decades is about oud fragrance, a Chloé shoulder bag. the warm, musky bouquet that is THE SCENT making its way west. A clutch of new scents, including Dior Leather Iris, heliotrope, and orange Oud, By Kilian’s Arabian Nights blossom blended with a face- collection, Bond No. 9 New York powder note reminds perfumer Perfume Oud, and Michael Boadi’s and fragrance cocreator Boadicea the Victorious collection, Louise Turner of “loose all incorporate the subtly spicy powder that my grandmother note. Although it is novel in the used with a big puff.” U.S., oud—a tree resin indigenous to India and Southeast Asia— has been used for centuries in the THE COLOR Gulf region, says perfumer Kilian Hennessy of By Kilian Fragrances. The perfume was tinted “a “Usually, it’s combined with dusky pink,” says Turner— incense or an essential oil, like mirroring the clothes in rose, because one vial of pure oud Chloé’s fall 2010 collection. costs well over $500.” In its countries of origin, people have been known to rub the resin THE ENGRAVING on their earlobes and neck, or burn incense in their closets so clothes The fragrance’s name is “embossed pick up the scent, but we’re happy into the base of the bottle like to report that ouds also merge the signature on a letter,” says harmoniously with traditional Chloé’s international marketing perfume notes. —DANIELLE PERGAMENT director, Philippe Desroche. She Said/He Said Boyfriends may come and go—but what about their scents? Allure editors and their significant others smelled the latest batch of men’s fragrances to see which faded prematurely and which lingered...in an appealing (not cloying) way. —ALISON CAPORIMO

scent she said he said

Marc Jacobs Bang, “It’s a strong mix of evergreen “It’s not offensive like colognes with peppercorns, and spice. After a couple that are overly heavy or musky. woods, white moss, of hours, it was milder and easier It smells clean, kind of like soap.” and patchouli to take.” —Kayleigh, assistant editor —Jarad, law student

Chanel Bleu, a “It smells clean and fresh, as long “I’d wear this to a special occasion blend of lemon, cedar, as you don’t pile on too much— because it smells fancy. I’m glad it sandalwood, nutmeg, it can get a little overwhelming.” doesn’t smell like the Abercrombie and ginger —Caitlin, fashion assistant store.” —Tom, financial advisor

Van Cleef & Arpels “Musky with a hint of baby powder, “From the name, I was expecting Midnight in Paris, which makes it masculine but soft. something like cigarettes in with lemon, green I was surprised by how much I liked a crowded jazz club. But it’s fresh, tea, and tonka bean it.” —Elizabeth, senior editor like a clean shirt.” —Victor, writer

Acqua di Parma “It’s clearly manly, but a bit strong “It reminds me of my dad’s Colonia Essenza, for my taste. You would definitely aftershave. It’s how I wanted to with clove, vetiver, smell it from the other end smell in seventh grade.” and white musk of the bar!” —Liz, associate editor —Chris, investment banker

Creed Aventus, “It smells hot on him, and I know “It smells cool. Like the guys in GQ with black currant, all the ladies he charms at in suits with private planes— bergamot, birch, oak work will be even more obsessed the ones other men are jealous of.” moss, and vanilla with him!” —Victoria, editorial assistant —Chandos, broadcasting executive 108

The Top 10 Perfume Questions–Answered

1 Why does my scent smell different 6 What does it mean if a perfume’s on my best friend than it does on me? “We color changes—has it lost its potency? all have a unique body chemistry that reacts Direct sunlight, strong overhead lighting, with the components of fragrance,” says or the simple passage of time can discolor Firmenich perfumer Olivier Cresp. Gender, perfume, but that doesn’t necessarily mean race, coloring, diet, medication, and your that the smell has weakened or turned. skin’s dryness or oiliness can all affect it. However, liquid that appears muddy or cloudy does usually mean a sour smell. Orientals and chypres have a longer shelf 2 Is it true that rubbing the wrists life than light fragrances do—so consider together after spraying a scent changes it? buying small bottles of the latter. Yes. “When you rub your wrists together, you’re warming up your skin and causing some perfume notes to evaporate faster 7 Will hot temperatures ruin or alter a than they should. Hence, you may not get scent? Is the best place to store fragrance the exact scent intended,” Cresp explains. really in the fridge? Any temperature over 75 degrees can degrade a fragrance’s top notes, making them “sharper, unfamiliar, 3 How can I make a perfume last and even unpleasant,” says Cresp. longer? Well-moisturized skin holds scent The best place to store perfume is away better than dry skin, so slather on an from light, with cool conditions that don’t unscented body lotion (or one in the same change. (Temperature shifts make scent) before applying your fragrance. the bathroom a particularly bad spot.) The The oils in hair help retain scent, but don’t refrigerator should extend a scent’s make a habit of coif-spritzing—alcohol expiration date by at least 50 percent— buildup can dry out hair or fade color. maybe more. But keep it away from food that easily absorbs odors, such as butter. 4 How do I know if I’m wearing too How to much fragrance? And how can I tone it 8 Can my fragrance stain my clothes? down if I do OD? The famous rule is your The darker the perfume and the lighter the Return Fragrance fragrance should be detectable only fabric, the more likely it is to stain, says Not all perfume purchases end during an embrace. But most of us become Hennessy. But the concentration matters: happily ever after, and there are acclimated to a scent over time, says “Most fragrances won’t stain clothing times when you and Fragrance Frédéric Malle; it’s best to figure out how if lightly sprayed six to ten inches away,” Wrong need to seek an amicable many spritzes are perfect in the first few says Semoff. If you accidentally slosh a parting of ways. We checked with days you use it. Then stick to that number scent on your favorite sweater, rinse with a number of department stores and in the future, even if you can’t smell it as water and blot with a towel right away. fragrance retailers (including strongly. If you happen to overdo it, “rub Dillard’s, Sephora, and Ulta) and your skin with a face wipe to remove some discovered that most of them of the perfume oil,” says Steven Semoff, Can perfume harm certain types of 9 have surprisingly generous return acting copresident of the Scent Marketing jewelry? Porous materials (pearls, policies, even when 20 percent Institute. Or apply a layer of unscented turquoise, opal, onyx, amber, coral, resin) or more of the bottle’s contents lotion over the fragranced area. “The are the most vulnerable to absorbing have been used, as long as you still moisturizing film will reduce the perceived fragrance, which can affect their ability to have the receipt. Sephora requires intensity,” Semoff explains. reflect light, Cresp says. The damage “is the fragrance’s original packaging; due to the alcohol in perfumes,” he says, most stores also place time limits so don’t spray directly on your jewels. on returns—between 30 days and six Why do some scents give me a 5 months from the time of purchase. raging headache? Strong odors of all kinds If you and a bottle of perfume you can trigger a severe headache, says What if I spill a bottle all over 1 0 received as a holiday present are Katherine Henry, chief of neurology at my rug? Immediately blot it up with a dry already having relationship Bellevue Hospital in New York City. cloth. Then pour some isopropyl alcohol on issues, it’s clearly worth taking a Many women react only to certain types of paper towels and wipe the area to dissolve minute to check out the store’s fragrance, or even just a particular scent, the aromatic oils, says Semoff; continue return policy—you may still have she says. Switch to a light floral or blotting and wiping until you’ve absorbed enough time to trade up. —L.V.G. citrus, or test sample sizes of heavier scents. as much as possible. —LINDSY VAN GELDER

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92 percent of allure.com users feel more attractive when wearing fragrance.

Small Talk Uncommon Scents Like teacup Yorkies and mini cupcakes, Tuberose and vanilla, we get. But some perfumes contain hints of “lobster” and “urban fragrances are even more irresistible renewal”—whatever that smells like. We tested five unusual scents. —Sarah z. wexler when shrunk to Lilliputian size—precisely L’Artisan Parfumeur Dzing! We Think It Smells Like: Blood, why we’re so excited that some of our They Think It Smells Like: “Sawdust sweat, sperm, and saliva. It’s nearly favorites are now available in travel-size essence” and “airborne talcum impossible to smell it without gagging. minis: Chanel’s Les Exclusifs line in 2.5-oz. powder,” as in a circus performance. Bond No. 9 New York High Line flacons; zesty Fresh Citron de Vigne in a We Think It Smells Like: Wet hay. No They Think It Smells Like: “Sea 1-oz. bottle; and Gucci’s florals—chypre peanuts, cotton candy—or elephants. moss” and “urban renewal,” evoking Gucci by Gucci, feminine Flora, and Demeter Lobster the elevated park in New York City. oriental Guilty—in 0.5-oz. purse sprays. They Think It Smells Like: Ocean We Think It Smells Like: Cut grass cook air, “sweet meat,” and “drawn butter.” and a little grit—it captures the park. We Think It Smells Like: Briny water Burger King BK Flame Body Spray david and fresh lemon. More like a They Think It Smells Like: “The lobster’s tank than the dish itself. scent of seduction” plus “flame- toma; Etat Libre d’Orange Sécrétions broiled meat.” kenji Magnifiques We Think It Smells Like: A man after They Think It Smells Like: “Blood, he’s been grilling all afternoon; sweat, sperm, and saliva.” it’s definitely more smoke than beef. top: f ro m

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