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Home , Fabbriche di Vallico, Lucca, Pietrasanta

GRAPEVINE July 2019 pull-out events calendar General markets Books and prints Arts and crafts , S. Francesco. fruits/vegetables Wed 4-7pm Lucca, Corte del Biancone Daily Lucca, Piazza San Giusto last Sat/Sunday Lucca, near the fairground Wed & Sat a.m. Lucca, Portone dei Borghi Wednesdays 10am to 7pm Antiques Lucca, Corso Garibaldi 2nd weekend of the month B. Giannotti, Foro Boario Sat a.m.

s Lucca 3rd Sat/Sunday Marina di Wednesday afternoons S. Maria a Colle Thurs a.m. 2nd Sunday Castelnuovo Garfagnana 1st weekend of the month Ponte a Moriano Tues a.m. Montecarlo 2nd Sunday last Sunday ket 1st Sat/Sunday S. Maria del Giudice Mon a.m. Plants and flowers Pietrasanta 1st Sunday Pietrasanta Thurs a.m. Lucca, Corso Garibaldi Friday mornings Barga 2nd Sunday Pietrasanta 3rd Sunday

Mar Marina di Pietrasanta Sat a.m. 4th Sat/Sunday Tonfano Sat a.m. 4th Sat/Sunday Markets in (the biggest) Castelnuovo Garfagnana Thurs a.m. 4th Sunday Piazza San Lorenzo 7-2 daily, 7-5 Sat, closed Sundays Pescia Sat a.m. Querceta Saturday mornings Parco delle Cascine Tuesdays 7am to 2pm

From Ice to Fire: Turandot at

his summer, the 65th Puccini festival at Torre del Lago will Torre del Lago is irrevocably associated with Puccini, but present five of the maestro's operas: La Fanciulla del West he also loved . It was here that, as guest of the on 12 and 26 July, on 27 July, 12 and 23 Betti family, the aspiring composer penned an anthem for the August, La Bohème on 20 July, 3 and 10 August, Tosca on local church. It was here too that, as guest of Baron Fassini 11,T 18 and 24 August, Le Villi on 16 August, and Turandot on 13 and Camossi at the Villa Gamba, the composer heard on a Chinese 19 July and 17 August. As if five of Puccini's twelve operas weren't carillon those traditional tunes that characterise much of this sufficient to whet one's musical appetite, there is Verdi's Aida on 2 opera’s music. August and two Tchaikovsky ballets: The Nutcracker on 29 July and Although his beloved Lake Massaciuccoli villa inspired the Swan Lake on 4 August. (Editor's note: as we go to press, we have opera's delightful scene with courtiers Ping, Pong and Pang, been informed by the Puccini Festival that Aida will not be Puccini moved to a purpose-built house in Viareggio to compose performed on 2 August; this will be replaced by Tosca.) Turandot. I visited this house, now being saved from dereliction, Turandot is Puccini's last and sadly unfinished opera. Why was it last year and entered the basement study just below the main unfinished? Was it perhaps because Giacomo couldn't find the bedroom where Puccini composed his last (and harmonically appropriate musical language to express that kiss which transforms most adventurous) opera in the small hours. It was an eerily the ice-cold princess into one who is touched by true love? In 1926 moving experience. A plaque in the garden commemorates this Alfano provided the standard conclusion, ending with a triumphal fact: The community of Viareggio promises to look after the house reiteration of that ubiquitous aria Nessun Dorma. Berio's more and woods, consecrated to , which were the reflective 2001 ending is also worth considering. In 2008, however, palace and garden of the resplendent queen Turandot (my composer Hao Weiya concluded Turandot, perhaps more translation). appropriately, with the traditional Chinese melody Jasmine Flower, Hearing Turandot at Torre Del Lago's open-air festival which announces the princess's appearances throughout the opera. theatre is a sublime experience. Words and music paint the view Unlike Puccini's other oriental opera Madama Butterfly, first we have before us – the placid (now reed-fringed) lake, the heard in Japan in 1921 with Tamaki Muira as protagonist, Turandot mysterious night sky, and the contours of the Apuan mountains had to wait until 1998 for its first performance in China. Turandot's on the horizon. cruel habit of having suitors unable to answer the three riddles Book now – tickets are selling fast! beheaded and Liu's harrowing torture scene were clearly unacceptable to the authorities. Incidentally, in – by Francis Pettitt 2017, in Beijing's Forbidden City, I visited the See Francis' Wordpress page at place where Zubin Mehta conducted that Puccini’s house longoio3.wordpress.com at Viareggio stunning 1998 production, which was preserved on film. Tickets for 17 August (Turandot) & Turandot was inspired by a Persian tale and 2 August (Tosca) may be obtained through elaborated by Carlo Gozzi in 1762. The name of Grapevine (tel. 3338617962 or write to the princess Turandot means the daughter of [email protected]). Turan. (Simonetta Puccini, the maestro's You can join us for a romantic lake granddaughter was insistent that the final 't' crossing with light dinner. should always be pronounced.) See page 16 (Coming Up) for details.

Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine July 2019 WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND 9 Cartolina Bohème, August 2018 Puccinielasualucca for its spring/summer season (1 April to 31 October) photo by Andrea Simi The listings published by Grapevine are taken from offers concerts every evening at the Church of San Giovanni at 7pm. reliable sources and reproduced in good faith. Tickets are sold at the door, or call 340 8106042. However, to avoid disappointment, www.puccinielasualucca.com - [email protected] Music & Theatre readers are advised to check information Program: Mondays Puccini & Mozart, Tuesdays Puccini’s Women, before setting off. Wednesdays Italian Opera Recital, Thursdays Puccini & Verdi, Fridays Puccini Opera Recital, Saturdays A Night at the Opera, July 2019 Sundays Puccini & the Neapolitan Song Tradition Sunday Mon Tues Wed Thu Friday Saturday Opera Barga, 3 to 14 July. www.operabarga.it Virtuoso & Belcanto Festival 16 to 28 July, tickets 1 2 3 4 5 8pm LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL 6 8pm LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL with CALCUTTA in €5, €10, €15. Reserve at the website 4pm, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, 5.30pm, Castelnuovo di 6.15pm, Lucca, Piazza Cittadella, with TOTO in Piazza Napoleone. Piazza Napoleone. See article on page 7. www.virtuosobelcanto.com or ticketone. Reductions Sala Suffredini. IAM Festival. Felix Garfagnana, Sala Suffredini. Puccini Postcards, Butterfly. Tickets 9.30pm, Lucca, San Giovanni Church. OsmannGold Orchestra 9pm, Deccio, Brancoleria, San Pietro Apostolo Church. Sacred for the entire festival. See the article on page 5. Gazzaev (violin) & Dinara IAM Festival. Xuting Zhao & are available at the Giglio box office. performing swing music & presenting their new album. Music by Charpentier/Pieruccini. Free admission. Tel. 0583 53817. Admission free. Tel. 333 8383286. www.osmanngold.com IAM International Academy of Music Festival in the Abdurasulova (piano). Followed by Mijeong Kim (pianists). Followed 5.30pm, Castelnuovo di 9.15pm, Pieve a Elici. Teatro alla Scala Octet performing Bruch & 9.15pm, Nozzano Castello. Chiedimi se sono felice. Italian Garfagnana, 28 June to 20 July, is in its 17th year..... Shini Zheng & Beyza Yazgan at 9.15pm, student gala. Free Garfagnana, Sala Suffredini. IAM Mendelssohn. Chamber Music Festival. See article page 5. (pianists). Free admission. admission. www.iamitalia.com Festival. San Diego Youth Cello songs with Laura De Luca & instrumentalists (flute, guitar, 4.30pm, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, Sala Suffredini. IAM Festival.

Versiliana Festival, Lido di Pietrasanta. Music, theatre, IAM Festival www.iamitalia.com Quartet. Free admission. trumpet, percussion). Admission free. Tel. 0583 548014, Magdalina Mishina (piano) performs Schumann/Liszt. 5.30pm, Kyrian talk shows in the pine forest near the sea. 10 July to 24 9.15pm, Castelnuovo, Cappuccini www.iamitalia.com www.ilcastellorivive.it Friedenberg (piano) performs Debussy/Rachmaninoff. Free. August. Complete program at: versilianafestival.it 9.15pm, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, Sala Suffredini. IAM Church. IAM Chamber Music 9.15pm, Castelnuovo, Cappuccini 6pm, Vorno, Villa Michaela. Peccioli Philharmonic Orchestra. To Festival. Final competition. Free admission. www.iamitalia.com Utopia del Buongusto, now in its 22nd year. 15 June Concert. Admission €10/reduced €7. Church. IAM Chamber Music reserve, call 0583 971112. to 16 November. Dinner evenings with theatrical Concert. Admission €10/reduced €7. 4pm, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, Sala Suffredini. IAM Festival. 9.15pm, Castelnuovo, San Giovanni Battista Church. IAM Chamber productions in rural Tuscan towns. Tel. 328 0625881, F. Gazzaev (violin) & D. Abdurasulova (piano). Followed by S. Music Concert. Chamber music concert. Admission €10/reduced €7. www.guastoneteatro.it 8 Zheng & B. Yazgan (pianists). Free admission. www.iamitalia.com 9.15pm, Castelnuovo, Cappuccini Church. IAM Chamber 9 10 11 Music Concert. Admission €10. 9.30pm, , Piazza V. 13 9pm LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL with MARK Olivia Trummer - MAMI Jazz Olivia Trummer 9.30pm LUCCA 9.30pm LUCCA 7 9pm LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL Emanuele II. MAMI Jazz concert. KNOPFLER in Piazza Napoleone. Free admission. with ELTON JOHN at the Walls (Viale Carducci). SUMMER FESTIVAL SUMMER FESTIVAL 12 8.30pm LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL 9.15pm, Torre del Lago Puccini Festival. Turandot. www.puccinifestival.it with MACKLEMORE / with TEARS FOR FEARS in with NEW ORDER / ELBOW in Piazza Napoleone. 9.15pm, , Teatro di Verzura. Minerva Quartet. Free. 9.15pm, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, Teatro Alfieri. IAM ANASTASIO in Piazza Piazza Napoleone. Festival. Final concert by the best student groups. Free 9.15pm, Lucca, Botanical Garden. Il canto degli alberi Napoleone. (Fridays 12 July to 10 September). Lyric performance by the admission. www.iamitalia.com 8.50pm LUCCA 18 Accademia Malfatti. €5. www.ortobotanicodilucca.it 9.30pm LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL with THE 9.15pm, Torre del Lago Puccini Festival. La Fanciulla del 20 SUMMER FESTIVAL with GOOD, THE BAD, & THE QUEEN in Piazza Napoleone. GIORGIA / JANELLE MONAE in West. www.puccinifestival.it 9.30pm, Romiti - , Jazz with Federica 9am, Lucca, Real Collegio. Cello competition. 14 15 16 17 Piazza Napoleone. www.virtuosobelcanto.com 6.30pm, Marlia, Villa Reale. Musica Gennai Quintet. Free admission. 9.15pm, Pieve a Elici. Alessandro Carbonare 9.30pm LUCCA SUMMER 6.30pm, Lucca, Real Collegio. 9.15pm, Castelnuovo, Cappuccini Church. IAM Chamber 6.30pm, Lucca, Ego Wellness Resort. Conference: music & (clarinet) & Venezia Quartet performing Bach, V&B student concert. in Villa, Le Dimore del Quartetto. FESTIVAL with EROS Music Concert. Admission €10/reduced €7. movement. www.virtuosobelcanto.com Beethoven, Mozart. Versilia Chamber Music Scott Hamilton - MAMI Jazz 9pm, Lucca, Agorà. Dance www.virtuosobelcanto.com 9.15pm, Torre del Lago Puccini Festival. La Bohème. RAMAZZOTTI in Piazza Festival. See article on page 5. conference on traditional European 9.30pm, Lucca, Dei Servi Church. www.puccinifestival.it Napoleone. I Virtuosi with Schumann/Brahms. www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it dances by Annamaria Viscione. 19 6.30pm, Lucca, Real Collegio. Student concert 9.15pm, Nozzano Castello. Virtuoso Belcanto Recital. Admission free. 6.30pm, Lucca, Dei Servi Church. Free admission. Tel. 0583 445716. www.virtuosobelcanto.com Tel. 0583 548014, www.ilcastellorivive.it 9.30pm, Castelnuovo di www.virtuosobelcanto.com 4pm, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, Fortezza Virtuoso & Belcanto opening www..lucca.it/agorà Garfagnana, Fortezza di 9.15pm, Lucca, Botanical Garden. Il canto degli alberi. I di Mont’Alfonso. Conference by coordinators concert by course professors. 9.30pm, Lucca, Palazzo Pfanner. Beethoven/Brahms. Mont’Alfonso. Jazz concert by Virtuosi performing Kodaly/Brahms. www.virtuosobelcanto.com of jazz departments in La Spezia, , Voces Intimae performing Nuoro Jazz. Free admission. 9.15pm, Torre del Lago Puccini Festival. Turandot. 9.30pm LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL with SCORPIONS in Firenze, Como, Parma. Open to the public. www.virtuosobelcanto.com Mendelssohn/Mozart. 27 See article on page 5. www.puccinifestival.it Piazza Napoleone. www.virtuosobelcanto.com 10.15pm, Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, Piazza Umberto I.

IAM Garfagnana Tour 9.15pm, Nozzano Castello. Francigena Chamber Orchestra. Scott Hamilton Quintet for MAMI Jazz. Free concert. Special guest Mirella De Vita (soprano). Admission free. Tel. 0583 25 548014, www.ilcastellorivive.it 21 22 23 24 noon, Lucca, Real Collegio. V&B 9.15pm, Torre del Lago Puccini Festival. Madama Butterfly. 9.30pm 9am, Lucca, Real Collegio. Viola competition. 3.30pm, Lucca, Real 6.30pm, Lucca, Real Collegio. 6.30pm, Lucca, Real Collegio. student concert. 26 LUCCA SUMMER FESTIVAL www.puccinifestival.it www.virtuosobelcanto.com Collegio. Piano competition. Student concert. Student concert. 6.30pm, Lucca (Vicopelago), Villa with GEMITAIZ / MADMAN in Piazza Napoleone. 9.30pm, Lucca, Dei Servi Church. OsmannGold Orchestra 3.30pm, Lucca, Real Collegio. Violin competition. www.virtuosobelcanto.com www.virtuosobelcanto.com www.virtuosobelcanto.com Bernardini. Le Dimore del 9am, Lucca, Real Collegio. Chamber music competition. performing jazz & presenting their new album. Admission free. Tel. 333 www.virtuosobelcanto.com 9.30pm, Lucca, San 9.30pm, Lucca, Dei Servi Church. 9.30pm, Lucca, Dei Servi Quartetto, Musica in Villa. www.virtuosobelcanto.com 8383286. www.osmanngold.com 9.30pm, Lucca, Real Collegio. 9.15pm, Pieve a Elici. Elisa Tomellini (piano) performing Michele Church. Virtuoso & I Virtuosi, Romantica Lucca 3, Church. I Virtuosi, Boris Berman 9.15pm, Lucca, Botanical Garden. Il canto degli alberi. Duo 6.30pm, Lucca, Real Collegio. Virtuoso & Belcanto: Pianoforte Esperienza Classica with Riccardo 1835 student concert. Chopin, Liszt, Debussy. Versilia Chamber Music Festival. See Belcanto Festival Chamber music by Chopin/Brahms. performing Haydn/Schubert. Cozzini Brunini. €5. www.ortobotanicodilucca.it Cecchetti quartetto performing 9pm, Bagni di Lucca, Casinò. Adolfo Betti 2019 V&B prize concert article on page 5. www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it Music Orchestra with M° www.virtuosobelcanto.com www.virtuosobelcanto.com 9.30pm, Lucca, Dei Servi Church. Student competition Beethoven/Mozart. (for string quartet). 9.15pm, Montecarlo, Piazza Francesco . Jazz & Wine Jan Bjøranger performing winners performance. www.virtuosobelcanto.com www.virtuosobelcanto.com 9.15pm, Torre del Lago Puccini Festival. La Fanciulla del 9.30pm, Lucca, Dei Servi Church. Romantica Lucca 4, I Virtuosi. with Vittorio Alinari Quartet. Elgar etc. West. www.puccinifestival.it Brahms/Schumann.

Lucca, Cartoline Pucciniane Postcards. 1 August (Bohème) & 5 Sept. (Tosca), 6.15pm, & for Notte Bianca 28 9.15pm, Pieve a Elici. M. Vacatello (piano) performing 29 30 31 (White Night) 24 August 9.30pm, Una notte all’opera. In Piazza Cittadella. Tickets available at the Giglio box office. Beethoven, Schumann, Skrjabin, Chopin. Versilia Chamber Lucca, Botanical Garden. Il canto degli alberi (Fridays 12 July to 10 September). €5. www.ortobotanicodilucca.it Music Festival. www.associazionemusicalelucchese.it 9.30pm LUCCA noon, Lucca, Real Collegio. Concerto Romantico Lucca 5. SUMMER Torre del Lago Puccini Festival. 3 & 10 August La Bohème, 12 & 23 August Madama Butterfly, 2 August Tosca, Pianist G. Strata (Premio Venezia 2018). Debussy/Liszt. 4 August Manon Lescaut, 16 August Le Villi, 17 August Turandot. All at 9.15pm. www.puccinifestival.it (Join the 9.15pm, Montecarlo, Piazza Francesco Carrara. Jazz & Wine FESTIVAL with Grapevine group at the operas on 2 & 17 August, crossing the lake by boat. See page 16 for sign-up details.) Swingaholic Quartet. STING in Piazza Pieve a Elici, Versilia Chamber Music Festival continues on 1,4,11,18,25,31 August. See article on page 5 & 9.30pm, Lucca, San Romano Church. Virtuoso & Belcanto Napoleone. further details on page 19. Festival Chamber Music Orchestra with M° Jan Bjøranger OsmannGold Orchestra performing Schönberg/Dvorak. www.virtuosobelcanto.com Coming Up 9.15pm, Montecarlo, Piazza Francesco Carrara. Jazz & Wine continues on 11, 18, 25 August. IAM Festival

10 WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND ’s GRAPEVINE Magazine July 2019 Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine July 2019 WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND 15 Exhibitions, July 2019

Lucca, Villa Bottini, Via Elisa. Occhi Oro, MusicArt. Painting, photography, sculptures, collection, shown five at a time. Open daily 10am to 6pm except Thursday & Monday. Admission €3 (plus €5 for ONGOING EXHIBITIONS: kimonos, music, & wine. Curated by Jitka Plchova. 10.30am to 12.30pm, 4.30pm to 8.30pm. guided visit). Until 29 August 2019. By reservation: tel. 055 2768224 or email [email protected] Also at Lucca, Villa Guinigi & Palazzo Mansi Museums. Museum hours: Tuesdays to 6 to 11 August, 24 to 27 September, 15 to 20 October. Free admission. Tel. 347 6254609. Palazzo Pitti, Sala Bianca & Sala delle Nicchie. A Woven Biography: Tapestries in Honour of Cosimo I. Until 29 Saturdays 9.30am to 7.30pm. Special evening hours 11 & 13 July 7.30pm to 10pm. September 2019. Vorno, Tenuta Dello Scompiglio, SPE. On Death and Dying. Installations by Levi van Veluw & Trattoria Da Nonna Clara Lucca, ex-Cavallerizza, Piazza San Donato. Museo della Follia curated by Vittorio Cecilia Bertoni. Video/performance by Avelino Sala. Until 22 Sept. Hours: 11am to 7.30pm. Firenze, Museo degli Innocenti, Piazza SS. Annunziata. Hallelujah Toscana. Photography by Marco Paoli, poetry by Sgarbi. Over 200 artworks. Until 18 August. See article in April Grapevine. Evening www.delloscompiglio.org Alba Donati. Curated by Sergio Risaliti. 31 May to 10 Sept. 2019. www.istitutodegliinnocenti.it Via Santa Croce 71 visits with conferences are listed in the calendar below. 55100 Lucca Viareggio, GAMC Gallery, Moses Levy, Ritornerà sul Mare la Dolcezza. Until 15 Firenze, Boboli Gardens, Piazza Pitti 1. In the Limonaia Grande, Building a Masterpiece, Trajan’s Column. 18 June Lucca Center of Contemporary Art Via della Fratta 36. Fortunato Depero, Dal September. Wed to Sat 3.30pm to 7.30pm, Sundays 9.30am to 130pm 3.30pm to 7.30pm. to 6 October 2019. Also, Sculptor Tony Cragg at Boboli. 5 May to 27 October 2019. Hours: 8.15am to 7.15pm in Tel. 0583 464307 Sogno Futurista al Segno Pubblicitario. Until 25 August. See article on page 8. Until 15 September. Info: 0584 581118. summer. Closed first & last Mondays of each month. Collateral events: 9 evenings 8.30pm to midnight, from 27 June to 25 August. Mob. 348 3102719 Viareggio Carnival Museum at the Cittadella del Carnevale. Sculptures by Roger & Gilbert Thursday evenings, tastings, music, guided Panzano Arte, between Panzano & the Chianti wineries. Monumental sculptures by French artist Nathalie Decoster. in the Commedia dell’Arte tradition. Hours: 9am to 1pm, 3pm to 7pm. [email protected] visit to Depero, theatrical performances. The wineries will be open to the public for the duration of the exhibition. 22 June to 18 September 2019. Tel. Davis & Co. www.trattoriadanonnaclara.it www.luccamuseum.com Viareggio, Centro Matteucci for Modern Art, Via G. D’Annunzio, 28. L’eterna musa, at 055 2347273 or email [email protected] l’universo femminile tra ‘800 & 900. Until 3 November. www.cemamo.it Lucca Center of Contemporary Art, Via WORTH THE TRIP: osteria da nonna clara della Fratta 36. Scolpire un Territorio by Firenze, Palazzo Vecchio. Il Ritorno di Giuseppe Principe dei Sogni (stories of San Gimignano, Gallery of Modern & Contemporary Art. Helmut Newton. Hours 10am to 7pm. Until 1 September. Giorgio Conta. Until 25 August. Joseph made for Cosimo de’ Medici). 20 hand-woven tapestries from the Medici www.sangimignanomusei.it

Sunday Mon Tues Wed Thu Friday Saturday 21 3 4 5 6 OPENING: Barga, Via Lucca, Portone dei ONE DAY: Pietrasanta, Museum of Sculpture & Architecture, Via di Borgo 28. Oxo Borghi. Sant’Agostino 61. 9pm, Interview with video-projection: Ritratti Contemporary Gallery, Wednesdays by Tommaso Barbieri moderated by Marcantonio Lunardi. Tel. 0584 Giorgia Madiai, attesa. Artisans Market. 791475. Until 15 July. OPENING: Firenze, Palazzo Medici-Riccardi. Il regno della www.oxogallery.com 10am to 7.30pm. Tel. 0583 4301100, purezza. Tibet in the paintings of Han Yuchen curated by Cristina www.cnalucca.it Acidini. Until 28 July. Hours: 10am to 6pm daily except Wed. Tel. 055 268308. www.zhongart.it 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 LAST DAY: Lucca, Lucca Center for Contemporary Art, ONE DAY: Pietrasanta, MUSA (Museum of Sculpture & Lounge & Underground, Via della Fratta 36. Burattino Architecture), Via Sant’Agostino 61. 6.30pm, Interview with video- senza fili (Puppet without Strings) by Marcello Scarselli. Hours Tuesday to projection: Robin Bell. Tel. 0584 791475. Sunday 10am to 7pm. See article on page 8.

14 15 16 17 18 19 20 LAST DAY: Lucca, Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Piazza San Martino 7. Mauro Lovi, OPENING: Barga, ONE DAY: Pietrasanta, MUSA (Museum of Sculpture & OPENING: Lucca, Via del Fosso. Volilovi. Hours: 3.30pm to 7.30pm. Free admission. www.fondazionebmlucca.it Oxo Gallery, Via di Architecture), Via Sant’Agostino 61. 6pm, Conference: Moore & I Fossi dell'Arte Borgo 28. Nicola Michelangelo: Dialoghi Volumetrici. Valentina Gensini interviewed Painting, photography, sculpture. 3rd LAST DAY: Firenze, Palazzo Strozzi, Piazza degli Strozzi. Verocchio, Salotti, olos. Until 31 by Paolo Bolpagni. Tel. 0584 791475. Saturday of each month until Sept. Hours: 4pm to 9.30pm. Contact Maestro di Leonardo. Hours: daily 10am to 8pm, plus Thursdays until July Fabrizio Barsotti, via del Fosso 153. ONE DAY: Viareggio, Summer of the Cittadella del Carnevale. 11pm. www.palazzostrozzi.org www.oxogallery.com LAST DAY: , Athena Museum. Landscape & Festival of the Negroni Cocktail at 9pm.. Music, art, tastes. Artworks

Verocchio paintings by Annamaria Buonamici & Maria Maddalena Vertuccio. by Giuliano Rossetti. 21 23 24 25 26 27 LAST DAY: Viareggio, GAMC Gallery, Impressions & words on paper, from Man Ray to ONE DAY: Pietrasanta, MUSA (Museum of Sculpture & Dorazio. Wed to Sat 3.30pm to 7.30pm, Sundays 9.30am to 130pm 3.30pm to 7.30pm 22 Architecture), Via Sant’Agostino 61. 6.30pm, Interview with video- projection: Khaled Zaki. Tel. 0584 791475. LAST DAY: , Palazzo Blu. The Conquest of the Solar System & Beyond. by National Geographic & European Space Agency. Mon. to Fri. 10am to 7pm, Sat/Sun 10am-8pm. www.palazzoblu.it

Barga, Oxo Gallery, Via di Borgo 28: Lucca Artigiana Fair. Deadline to participate in this market/exhibition is 1 August. See page 6. 28 29 30 31 ng 1 to 15 August, Keane, Barga shrine paintings mi 16 to 31 August, Fabio Maestrelli, stare Pietrasanta, MUSA (Museum of Sculpture & Architecture), Via Sant’Agostino 61. 3 to 25 Co 1 to 15 Sept., Roberto Giansanti, viaggio ad oriente August, Transit. Il trasporto del Marmo. Video-projection by Marco Mazzi. 30 August 6pm, p 16 to 30 Sept., Kerry Bell, every garment tells a story Michelangelo Ritrovato? Francesca Velani interviews Irene Baldriga & Claudio Capotondi. Tel. U 0584 791475.

12 WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine July 2019 Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine July 2019 WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND 13 VILLAGE & TOWN EVENTS Lucca, Agorà, Via delle Trombe 6, films presented by Nicola Borrelli of Lucca Film Festival: 25 July. 6pm Lucca, San Paolino Days. San Paolino is Lucca’s patron Filastrota d’Amore. 8pm Aperitivo by Equinozio. 9pm Il saint. Religious celebrations, historic re-enactments, Sale della Terra by Wim Wenders/J.R. Salgado. Tel 0583 markets & more. 3 July 6pm, Feast of San Tommaso, 445716, www.comune.lucca.it/agorà Pelleria neighborhood event with Eucharist Celebration involving Monsignore Paolo Giuletti. 4 July 8.30pm, Lucca, outdoor cinema at Villa Bottini, Via Elisa. 21 June Burraco di San Paolino solidarity card tournament at to late August. Rain-dates at Cinema Moderno. Fresh air, Piazza San Pierino 11. www.consanpaolino.com huge screen, low priced (€5 to €8). In July: 1st Rocketman, 2 La Favorita , 3 Aladdin, 4 Cyrano Mon Lucca, Extra Lucca Summer Amour, 5 The Book Club, 6 Stanlio & Ollio, 7Arrivederci Edition with Fausto Borella. Professore, 8 Nureyev, The White Crow, 9 Van Gogh - Extra-virgin olive oils on exhibit Sulla Soglia delle Eternità, 10 Pets 2 - Vita da Animali, 11 at the Loggiato of Palazzo La Mia Vita con John Donovan, 12 Green Book, 13 Il Pretorio (San Michele Square). Traditore (M. Bellocchio), 14 Nureyev The White Crow, 15 Daily 17 June to 31 July. 10am Arrivederci Professore, 17 Pets 2 - Vita da Animali, 18 Dilili to 8pm. www.extralucca.it a Parigi, 19 Il Corriere - The Mule (C. Eastwood), 20 L’Uomo Fedele, 21 Domani E’ un Altro Giorno, 22 Il Montecarlo Tavolata, Saturday Professore e Il Pazzo, 23 L’Uomo che Comprò la Luna, 24 6 July 8pm. Benefit event for the Toy Story 4, 25 Cafarnao Caos & Miracoli, 26 Wolf Call, 27 Misericordia, involving the entire town. Get on our bus Il Traditore, 28/29 Edison, L’Uomo che Illuminò il Mondo, & come with us! See the article in last month’s 30 Bauhaus Spirit, 31 Toy Story 4. Grapevine & see “Meet-Up” below. CONFERENCES Montecarlo weekends July/August: theatre, concerts, jazz&wine Sunday evenings, art displays. Lucca, Baluardo San Colombano, Puccini’s Trittico, Piazza Carrara closed to traffic. 100 years later. Conference on the centenary of the 1st performance (held in Rome in 1919). 4 to 6 July. Info: tel. SAGRAS/FAIRS 0583 469225, www.fondazionegiacomopuccini.it These events, held by church & charity organizations in small Italian towns, are a great Capannori, Athena Museum. Conference regarding opportunity to eat outdoors, talk with local people, & Auser & seta nel tempo in Lucchesia, conference on 16 maybe enjoy a bit of dancing under the stars. Only a July at 9.15pm by Alessandra Nannini with landscape & few are listed here; silk paintings by Annamaria Buonamici & Maria look for more in August! Maddalena Vertuccio (until 20 July).

!Altopascio (Badia Pozzeveri), Sagra del Cacciucco Grapevine has reserved a bus to Montecarlo’s Tavolata COMING UP (fish stew), 5 to 7, 11 to 14 July. and to the Torre del Lago Operas in August: See Coming Up !Mutigliano, Rigatoni (pasta) Sagra, 5-6-7, 12-13-14, below, also articles in last month’s Grapevine. 2019 opera season at Torre del Lago: 19-20-21 July. La Fanciulla del West 12 & 26 July. !Capannori, Sagra del Tagliarino, 5-6-7 July. Lucchese CHILDREN Turandot 13 & 19 July, 17 August. cooking, pasta, fagioli. Bohème 20 July, 3 & 10 August. !Matraia (loc. Costa), Sagra dell’Oliva Dolce (sweet Lucca, Agorà, Via delle Trombe 6. Una Notte d’Estate, Madama Butterfly 27 July, 12 & 23 August. olives). 5-6-7-12 July. reading & workshop for families & children (age 4+) by CANCELLED: Aida 2 August. !Massa Macinaia (Capannori), Sagra del Fungo Gian Luigi Colombo. 2 July at 9pm. Admission free. Manon Lescaut (concert form), 4 August. Porcino con Polenta & Zuppa alla Frantoiana, Saturdays Contact: 0583445716 or [email protected] Tosca 2,11,18,24 August. & Sundays in July. Le Villi 16 August. !Capannori (Lammari), Sagra Paesana San Jacopo, Lucca Summer museum camps to discover the city’s art tordelli & torte co’becchi. Weekends 6 to 28 July. & history. Games & laboratories for children 6 to 14 years !Barga Piazzette Summer Festival, 12 to 25 July. old, organized by Terzo Millennio Onlus (Piazza !Pieve Fosciana, 6-7 July. Bistecca & grigliata mista. Antelminelli 5 - Lucca). . 8-12 July, 15-19 July. 9am to 1pm Monday to Friday. Each day beginning at the Via MEET-UP GROUPS & GRAPEVINE ACTIVITIES Francigena Entry Point. Tel. 342 1466451.

English Mondays conversation group at 4pm. La Viareggio: Summer at the Cittadella. Pecora Nera bar, at Parco Mazzini behind Piazza San 13 July 8.30pm Carnival Workshop. Kite making. Francesco. 19 July & 3 August 7pm at Espace Gilbert: Escape Room, with games & activities. Drink, Speak & Share, language exchange group at 27 July & 10 August 9pm, Stelle di Carnevale. Music, LuccaLibri, Viale Regina Margherita, outside Porta San lights, dance, Carnival floats. Maria Guleghina & Josè Cura in Tosca Pietro. Wednesdays at 9pm. Along the coast, south of Livorno: at Calambrone. In its 3rd year, the Grapevine boat trip to Torre del Lago Luccalele group, convivial group for ukelele fans. To Eliopoli Summer. Piazza Antonio Madonna. Events from Opera is planned for Tosca (2 Aug.) & Turandot (17 participate contact Paolo at 380 4358318 or email 15 June to 15 September, starting at 10pm unless otherwise Aug.). The all-inclusive price is €115 p.p.: a/c coach to & [email protected] specified. Lots of activities for children. Eliopolisummer.it from Lucca, boat with Italian narrator crossing Lago di Massaciuccoli, buffet dinner on board, opera ticket (3rd Friends of the English Bookshop. Book club. For more CINEMA section), & information about the opera. Reserve now to information contact Carolyn at 3384076568. have the best seats possible! Florence, Odeon Cinema, films in original language. bilingual cultural exchange: Meetings, activities, Piazza Strozzi. 055 214068, www.odeonfirenze.com www.turismo.lucca.it & www.turismo.garfagnana.eu are aperitivi. Register at CamaioreCulturalExchange.com www.luccacinema.it / www.circolocinemalucca.it other sources for events & tours.

16 WHAT’S ON IN & AROUND Tuscany’s GRAPEVINE Magazine July 2019