Costumes of Traditional Title Holders of Northern

Dikko H. National Agricultural Extension and Research Liaison Services (NAERLS)/ABU,

Nigerian Journal of Agricultural Extension, Vol. 19, Number 1, March 2018

Abstract The study was designed to investigate costumes of traditional title holders (TTHs) of Northern Nigeria. The population for the study comprised district heads and kingmakers from the seven states of northwest Nigeria. Stratified random sampling technique was used to select four states, while hat drawn method was used to select one emirate council from each state. This gave a sample size of 134 TTHs (114 district heads and 20 kingmakers). Descriptive survey research method was used to collect data using structured questionnaire. Simple frequency and percentages were used to analyse the result. Findings revealed that some of the costumes of the district heads (DH) and kingmakers (KM) of northern Nigeria include Babbar riga (80%DH, 95%KM), alkyabba (74% DH, 60% KM), hula (99% DH, 95% KM), wando (buje) (100% DH, 100% KM) and rawani (94% DH, 95% KM). The average number of the garments use for official functions for both DH and KM are six, even though only four items (babbar riga, hula, alkyabba and rawani) were given to them during turbanning. The horses of TTHs are not left out in special regalia. They have costumes like jalala, dan kai tunjimi, banten doki, suka budu, labbati and so on. The embroidery designs preferred by TTHs are farfesu, yar madaka, shabka, allura biyu, hand and machine embroidery. It is recommended that universities should endeavour to have royal costumes museum for use by students and researchers who wish to study such costumes.

Keywords: Traditional title holders, emirate costumes, emirate councils

Introduction Throughout history, in every country, are also spectacular which make people ethnic group or race, the existence of a accord them special respect. class of people within the community A single glance at the clothes people called traditional title holders (TTHs), also use reveals a wealth of information about known as traditional rulers, ruling class, how the people perceive themselves, each or royal class, is very well acknowledged. other and their roles in society (Susan The people within this class are assigned 1996). Clothing, like other aspects of ranks or titles and the titles are passed human physical appearance has social down from one generation to another. significance attached to it, such as Herviland (1999) stated that during conveying social messages including medieval times, majority of the stating or claiming social status, personal TTH/ruling classes/traditional rulers or cultural identification, establishing, were considered to have direct maintaining or defying social group relationship with gods. Some were norms, appreciating comfort and believed to have certain powers that made functionality. Other signals sent by them closer to the gods than other lower clothes are indications of the person’s class citizens. Part of the TTH power was gender, income, occupation, social class, said to be associated with the costumes political, ethnic, religious affiliations, they used. These costumes are rare and traditional and marital status. Because of expensive; the designs of the garments these dimensions of clothes, the human H. Dikko * Emirate Costumes of Traditional Title Holders of Northern Nigeria 100 race is inclined to go for uniform monarchy but now retains them as state garments to form an identity and be part figure) has royalty in its history, and each of a group. The costumes of Traditional royalty will have some set of garments Title Holders serve as a uniform meant only for them which is referred to identifying them to belong to a group as royal costumes. According to Sowole (royal class) and indicating their social (n.d.), the royal regalia of Northern status in the society. Nigeria are largely the same. They consist Nigeria is a Federal Republic, one of a set of grand big gown (babbar riga, composed of a plethora (excessive Plate 1), cloak (alkyabba, Plate 2), cap amount) of governorates and kingdoms. (hular nadi, Plate 3), turban (rawani, Some of the latter had a huge significance Plates 4&5), big trouser (buje, Plate 6), in the before they were Staff of office (sandar girma, Plate 7), subdued by the British during the embroidered shoes (Plate 8) and umbrella colonial era. Nevertheless, even today, (laima, Plate 9). their principal rulers have been able to An important royal costume is the set maintain their religious, cultural and, to of babbar riga which is an attire a certain extent, political influence consisting of 3 pieces of highly (Boomale, 2011). The TTH/ruling embroidered garments; a pair of tie-up class/royalties in Northern Nigeria have trousers that narrow towards the ankles what is called “Emirate” and in each (known as wando by the Hausa), a long- Emirate there are the Traditional Title sleeved shirt (known as a ’yar ciki and a Holders also called Emirs, district heads, wide, open-stitched sleeveless gown kingmakers, village Heads and so on. All (babbar riga) worn over the above which the title holders have different regalia are generally of the same colour. The given to them on the day they are babbar riga is usually decorated with turbaned. Each costume has a history, intricate embroidery example is the girgen reason and or motivating factors on why Nupe babbar riga (plate 10). The size and it is used. For example the sword given to type of thread used for the embroidery the Emir of was the one used by depend on the rank of the title holder (the Bayajidda to kill the snake that higher the rank the more the embroidery prevented people from fetching water and the more expensive the thread used). from the famous Kusugu well (Majalisan Hanging from shoulder to ground, the Sarkin Daura, 1991). The straw hat babbar riga is worn over embroidered (malfa) of Sarkin Kano was passed down trousers and long-sleeved shirts. from Emir Ibrahim Dabo to symbolize the Handcrafted embellished leather slippers Fulani’s as the ruling ethnic group in or boots, distinctive form of turban Kano. Another factor is to distinguish (rawani) and a cloak worn over the gown TTH from other people in the community. added by the royalties in context of The Traditional Title Holders (TTH) in this display. The above costumes are study comprised of kingmakers and particularly important in identifying the district heads of North West Geo-political TTHs of northern Nigeria. The subtle Zone of Nigeria. This research has differences in the big gown, its identified the different royal costumes, embroidery and quality of fabric are what embroidery designs and the costumes distinguished the wearers as royalty and given to the TTH of Northern Nigeria his grade (1st, 2nd, 3rd class or a royal during turbanning ceremony. guard). Multicolour robes and turbans are worn when the occasion dictates such Emirate Costumes of Northern Nigeria display. Perani and Norman (1992) Emirate/royal costumes refer to the described the late emir of Kano, Alhaji costumes worn by the ruling class people Ado Bayero, when he was a district head like kings, queens, district heads, chiefs as he appeared in robes of deep blues and their subjects. Any country with a and reds when receiving important ruling monarchy (or used to have a ruling visitors, when attending installation 101 Nigerian Journal of Agricultural Extension 19 (1) March 2018 ceremonies for emirs and important northern Nigeria; identify the type of officials, and when taking part in the costumes given to TTHs during equestrian processions that accompanied turbanning; determine the number of the two salla celebrations marking the garments used by TTHs for official palace end of Ramadan (Muslim month of functions; and identify the types of fasting) and the Eid kabir. The use of embroidery designs on the costumes of babbar riga by TTHs of is an indicator of TTHs of northern Nigeria. pride and a primary means by which difference in wealth, prestige and access Methodology to power have been visually present Descriptive and survey research methods (Takaitaccen tarihin Daura (1991) were used to collect data for the study The horses of TTHs are not left out in using questionnaire and interview the royal regalia. The body of a horse, like technique. Population for the research that of a person, can be regarded as a consisted of 551 kingmakers and district surface to be transformed through a heads in the northwest geopolitical zone process of decorative layering. The Hausa of Nigeria. The zone has seven states expect that any man who owns and rides (Kano, , Kaduna, Kebbi, Jigawa, a horse in northern and central Nigeria Sokoto and Zamfara). Stratified random should dress the animal properly. Just as sampling technique was used to select the title holders have a ceremonial robe four from the seven states. Hat drawn so also do the horses. method was used to select one emirate The costumes of TTH horses are council from each state ( from unique and very elaborate. Both the , Daura from , district heads and kingmakers shared the Kano from Kano State and Sokoto same costumes for their horses; the Caliphate from Sokoto State). A sample of difference is on the amount of costumes 134 TTHs (114 district heads and 20 used at a time. The kingmakers use kingmakers) was used for data gathering almost all the costumes on their horses through structured questionnaire. at a time, while the district heads use Descriptive statistics of frequency and less. These costumes includes alkashafa, percentages were used to analyse the babban sirdi, sirdi and likafa (plate 19), data collected. benten doki (plate 17), bauji, bishiradi, dan gaba/dan kiji (plate 15), dan kai Result and Discussion tinjimi, dauki saka, ja-kutiri, jalala (plate The result of findings is presented and 13), kahu/kuhu (plate 18), kalfazuru discussed based on the four research (plate 15), kayan ado which is the same objectives raised. The result showed that as kayan kyalkyali or kayan kwalliya the respondents agreed that all the items these include dan kai (plate 16), dan kiji listed in Table one above are costumes (plate 16), dan kokuwa, and kalfazuru. used by TTHs of northern Nigeria except These can be used in place of ordinary malfa for the district heads and dan kai (plate 15), dan kiji/dan gaba, kingmakers. Malfa is not part of the layun wuya, dan kokuwa (plate 15), and costume for TTHs in this study because it kalfazuru (plate 15). Others are is for some first class title holders who labbati/mashinfidi (plate 14), suka dubu are not among the population of this (plate 12), linzami, belt (majanyi), study. The findings revealed that the ragama/shafurji, rigar sirdi/sattara, zagin common emirate costumes used by TTHs sirdi, shubuka, silver stirrup. According of northern Nigeria are big gowns (babbar to Perani and Norman (1992), these riga) (plates 1), ’yar ciki, cap (hula) (plate ceremonial dresses for horses are an 3), big trouser (wando/buje) (plate 6), elaboration of earlier forms of protective cloak (alkyabba) (plate 2), turban coverings worn during battle. The (rawani) (plates 4 and 5), and objectives of the study are to: identify the embroidered shoes (plate 8). The other different royal costumes used by TTHs of costumes being accessories (falmara, H. Dikko * Emirate Costumes of Traditional Title Holders of Northern Nigeria 102 jabba and kufta) which used to be heads and kingmakers. Average numbers imported in to the country but are now of garments used by both district heads produced by our local tailors are used on and kingmakers for official occasions are demand by TTHs. Kaftan, according to six. The findings further revealed that some respondents, even though not an TTHs wear multilayer garments at any accessory; was used mainly for given time because looking prestigious is relaxation. very important to TTHs. This multilayer Interviews with some respondents look served to distinguish the ruling class revealed that the big gowns (babbar from others in the society. riga/manyan riguna) used by TTHs Figure 2 is concerned with the include girken Nupe, tokare, kwakwata different embroidery designs used on the (plate 20), allura biyu/ aska biyu (plate costumes of TTHs of northern Nigeria. 21), aska takwas, aska goma (plate 22), The finding revealed that all the shabka (plate 1), farfesu and ’yar embroidery designs in Table above except Madaka. Other costumes include variety ferfesu of district heads and ten knives of headgears (rawani dan Kura and (aska goma) of both district heads and harsa), big trousers (buje) also called kingmakers are accepted. Item two of tsakatum/dan Katsina or wando kamun district heads (allura biyu) scored 94%, kafa The babbar riga allura biyu, aska while hand embroidery and shabka of the biyu, takwas, goma, shabka, farfesu, ’yar kingmakers have the highest scores of Madaka all derived their names from the 95% each. Allura biya (plate 21) is a type embroidery designs on the gowns. of embroidery using multi-coloured Table two indicates the different types threads. The designs commonly produced of costumes given to TTH during using the allura biyu method include two turbanning ceremony as official knives (aska biyu). This might accounted garments. Only four items (2, 3, 5 and for this type of embroidery having the 10) of the costumes (babbar riga, rawani, second score of 90% and 65% for district hula and alkyabba) were given to TTHs on heads and kingmakers respectively. the day of turbanning. As figure one Shabka (plate 1) is an embroidery design below indicates, they are expected to worked on the babbar riga of title holders dress in much more than the above four from top to bottom (the whole length of items of costumes during official the gown) for both back and front. functions for them to be accepted as fully Ten knives (aska goma) (plate 22) has dressed. The finding was in line with the the lowest score of 16% and 10% for researcher’s assumption that there were district heads and kingmakers special items of costumes given to TTHs respectively. According to the interview of northern Nigeria as their regalia of with some TTHs, this particular office when they are turbaned. embroidery design is not popular because Figure 1 deals with the number of the knives (asake) being many are made garments/costumes worn by the TTHs small and also majority of the designers during palace official or social functions. are not willing to go in to the production The figure indicates that the average of this design because it is tedious. The number of costumes used for hawan findings reveals that the embroidery daba, hawan daushe, and turbanning designs preferred most by the district (nadin sarauta) for both district heads heads on their costumes are yar madaka and kingmakers are seven as shown in (Plate 23), two needles (Plate 21), two the figure above. The average number of knives (Plate 24), eight knives and garments worn by kingmakers for hawan machine embroidery; the kingmakers also salla are eight and for district heads, liked yar madaka (Plate 23) together with seven. Court costumes are four garments farfesu (Plate 25), hand embroidery (Plate for district heads and five for kingmakers. 26) and shabka (Plate 1). Costumes used for relaxation are the least with four garments each for district 103 Nigerian Journal of Agricultural Extension 19 (1) March 2018 Conclusion and Recommendations 2. In-depth study should be carried out The emirate costumes of TTHs include on the different embroidery designs the big gown (babbar riga: Plate 1), on the costumes of TTHs. turban (rawani: Plates 4&5), cap (hula: 3. Another study should be conducted to Plate 3), big trousers (buje/wando: Plate ascertain why TTHs wear many 6), embroidered shoes (takalma: Plate 8), garments for official functions. cloak (alkyabba: Plate 2), jabba, kufta, falmara and kaftan. From all these items References of costumes, only babbar riga, hula, Amy, L. (2010). An informal talk on ancient & rawani and alkyabba are given to TTHs current clothing culture. Retrieved 23/1/ during turbanning. However, the average 2010 from www.phrmsight.org/node/982. number of garments used by TTHs for Boomale, O. (2011). Motherland Nigeria: plates. Retrieved 25/9/2013 from palace functions is six. Some of the www.motherlandnigeria.com. accessories like falmara, kayan yauki, Bugg, J. (2009). Fashion and the interface: kufta and jabba which used to be Designer-wearer-viewer. Retrieved 23/10/ imported costumes are now produced by 2012 from www.thefuturista.com. local designers/tailors. The embroidery Council (1991). Takaitaccen designs most preferred by the kingmakers Tarihin Duara. Daura Emirate Council are ’yar madaka (Plate 23), together with (Majalisan Sarkin Daura), Nigeria. farfesu (Plate 25), hand embroidery and Kefgen, M. and Specht, P.(1976). Individuality shabka (Plate 1), while the embroidery in Clothing Selection & Appearance. Macmillan Publishing; New York. designs preferred by the district heads Maccido, A.R. (2007). Brief history of Zazzau are ’yar madaka, two needles, two knives, and its environments. Paper presented at eight knives and machine embroidery. the Language and Culture Programme, US The horses of TTHs are provided special Embassy, Abuja. regalia some of which are banten doki Perani, J. and Norma, W. (1992). Embroidered (Plate 17), kalfazuru (Plate15), dan kai gowns and equestrian ensembles of Kano (Plate 16), dauki saka/ kahu/kuhu (Plate aristocracy. African Arts, 25(3): 70-82. 18), ja-kutiri, jalala (Plate 13), labbati Sowole, T. (nd). Nigerian traditional costumes; (Plate 14), dan kirji (Plate15) and so on. Parting shot for Greek ambassador. Guardian, July14. Based on the findings, the following are Susan, B.K. (1996). The Social Psychology of recommended: Clothing: Symbolic appearance in context. 1. Nigerian universities should have Fairchild Books and Visuals Company; royal costumes museum for use by NY. students and researchers who may wish to study such costumes.

Table 1: Distribution of Respondents by Type of Costumes used S/No. Types of costumes used Response Category District heads (%) Kingmakers (%) 1 ’Yar ciki 71 95 2 Alkyabba 86 95 3 Babbar riga 98 95 4 Falmara 61 80 5 Hula 99 95 6 Jabba 57 75 7 Kaftan 44 70 8 Kufta 58 90 9 Malfa 42 25 10 Rawani 94 95 11 Takalmi 84 90 12 Wando 100 100

H. Dikko * Emirate Costumes of Traditional Title Holders of Northern Nigeria 104 Table 2: Respondents by Types of Costumes Given During Turbanning Ceremony S/No. Types of costumes used Response Category District Heads (%) King Makers (%) 1 ’Yar ciki - - 2 Alkyabba 100 100 3 Babbar riga 100 100 4 Falmara - - 5 Hula 90 85 6 Jabba - - 7 Kaftan - - 8 Kufta - - 9 Malfa - - 10 Rawani 100 100 11 Takalmi - - 12 Wando - - Source: Researcher’s 2014 field survey

Figure 1: Distribution of Respondents by Number of Garments Used for Palace Functions

Source: Researcher’s 2014 field survey Figure 2: Distribution of Respondents by type of Embroidery Designs on Costumes of TTH of Northern Nigeria 105 Nigerian Journal of Agricultural Extension 19 (1) March 2018

H. Dikko * Emirate Costumes of Traditional Title Holders of Northern Nigeria 106

Plate 1: Babbar riga Plate 2:Alkyabba Plate 3: Hular nadi Pictures taken by the researcher at Zaria (2013), Courtesy: Zazzau Emirate Council

Plate 4: Rawani dan kura Plate 5: Rawani harsa Plate 6: Wando buje Pictures taken by the researcher at Zaria (2013), Courtesy: Zazzau Emirate Council

Plate 7: Staff of office (Sandar girma) Plate 8: embroidered shoes Plate 9: Laima. Courtesy: Kano Ed-el kabir Pictures taken by the researcher at Zaria (2013), Courtesy: Zazzau Emirate Council

107 Nigerian Journal of Agricultural Extension 19 (1) March 2018

Plate10: Girge Nupe. Source: Penari & Norman (1992). Plate 11: Traditional Title Holder’s horse. Picture, Source: Boomale (2011)

Plate12: Suka dubu. Plate 13: Jalala Plate 14: Labbati Pictures taken by the researcher at Zaria (2013), Courtesy: Zazzau Emirate Council

Kalfazuru

Zancen banza

Dan kirji

Layun wuya

Dan kokuwa Plate 15: Set of leather horse head decoration.Picture taken by the researcher at Zaria (2013), Courtesy: Zazzau Emirate Council

Dan kai Dan wuya

Dan qirji

H. Dikko * Emirate Costumes of Traditional Title Holders of Northern Nigeria 108 Plate 16: Silver horse decoration Picture taken by the research assistant at Zaria (2013), Courtesy: Zazzau Emirate Council

Plate 17: Bantan doki. Plate 18: Kuhu/kahu/daukisaka. Plate 19: Sirdi & likkafa Pictures taken by the researcher at Zaria (2013), Courtesy: Zazzau Emirate Council

Plare 20: Kwakwatan saki Plate 21: Aska biyu (allura biyu) Plate 22: aska goma Pictures taken by the researcher at Zaria (2013) Courtesy: Zazzau Emirate Council

Plate 23: Yar madaka Plate 24: Two needles (Aska biyu) Plate 25: Farfesu Pictures taken by the researcher at Zaria (2013) courtesy: Zazzau Emirate Council.

109 Nigerian Journal of Agricultural Extension 19 (1) March 2018

Plate 26: Hand embroidery Picture taken by the researcher at Zaria (2013) courtesy: Zazzau Emirate Council.