“A doctor can bury his mistakes, but an architect can only advise his client to plant vines.” — FRANK LLOYD WRIGHT

JULY 2019

ESCAPE • EXPLORE • EXPERIENCE

THE ARCHITECTURE OF ARIZONA 1182-2019

WUKOKI PUEBLO EST. CIRCA 1182 36 DIFFERENT BY DESIGN People visit Arizona from around the world. Usu- ally, it’s for the things that Mother Nature has built Grand Canyon — Sedona, the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley. But National Park there are some man-made structures worth a look, too. Winslow Some of them are well known — such as Mission San Flagstaff Xavier del Bac and Taliesin West — while others are not. All, however, are worthy of contemplation. Strawberry July 2019 By Lawrence W. Cheek Photographs by Kerrick James PHOENIX Safford 2 EDITOR’S LETTER 50 NOT QUITE WRIGHT Mount Lemmon In the late 1950s, Arizona was considering a new 3 CONTRIBUTORS state Capitol. Although an architect had already 4 LETTERS been selected, Frank Lloyd Wright submitted a plan POINTS OF INTEREST IN THIS ISSUE of his own. The design, a glittery cavalcade of geom- 5 THE JOURNAL etry, was flaky and wastefully impractical. But it was inspiring, too. People, places and things from around the state, including the origins of Scottsdale Artists’ School, By Lawrence W. Cheek a place with no teachers and no curriculum; a rare GET MORE ONLINE look at nesting bald eagles; and Northern Arizona’s 52 SCENIC DRIVE www.arizonahighways.com important connection to the Apollo program. Winslow to Second Mesa: Steeped in Hopi and Navajo history, this scenic drive features a dazzling array of /azhighways 18 SPANISH ACCENT otherworldly buttes in a land where the only creatures in the road are cows. @arizonahighways An Essay by Lawrence W. Cheek By Annette McGivney

24 LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE Evergreens and a meadow are shrouded A Portfolio Edited by Jeff Kida 54 HIKE OF THE MONTH in mist after a summer hailstorm on the Wilderness of Rock: Like the hoodoos in the Chirica- Grand Canyon’s North Rim. Elias Butler huas, the weathered rocks on this strenuous hike are NIKON D810, 1/15 SEC, F/13, ISO 100, the payoff, but there’s a lot to see along the way. 65 MM LENS FRONT COVER: First light strikes the By Robert Stieve walls of Wukoki Pueblo at Wupatki National Photographs by Joel Hazelton Monument, northeast of Flagstaff. George Stocking 56 WHERE IS THIS? CANON EOS-1DS MARK II, 1/6 SEC, F/22, ISO 100, 24 MM LENS BACK COVER: The setting sun silhouettes the bell tower of Mission San Xavier del Bac, located on Tohono O’odham land near Tucson. Kerrick James PENTAX K-1 MARK II, 1/500 SEC, F/8, ISO 800, 170 MM LENS

www.arizonahighways.com 1 editor’s LETTER CONTRIBUTORS

light upstairs in the bedroom. LAWRENCE W. CHEEK The front door was unlocked, so the two men Writer Lawrence W. Cheek’s JULY 2019 VOL. 95 NO. 7 walked in and went to the living room. “Let’s three contributions to this issue not disturb them,” the architect whispered. And 800-543-5432 complete a 35-year circle: His first then he started looking around. “This room www.arizonahighways.com work for Arizona Highways was a doesn’t look right,” he said, as he took off his GIFT SHOP: 602-712-2200 1984 architecture-themed issue. grew up 47 miles from Taliesin — Frank Lloyd coat. First he moved a chair. Then a table and “I wanted to do it again — differ- Wright’s summer home in Spring Green, Wis- some lamps. He wasn’t done, though. He even PUBLISHER Kelly Mero ently and, hopefully, better — and EDITOR Robert Stieve consin. Now, I’m 12 miles from Taliesin West, moved the piano. About the only thing he didn’t gather in some of the excellent SENIOR EDITOR/ work Arizona architects have done I his winter compound in North Scottsdale. My touch was the birdcage, because the parrots BOOKS EDITOR Kelly Vaughn link to the legendary architect, however, has noth- seemed to be asleep. MANAGING EDITOR Noah Austin since I moved away in 1996,” he ing to do with the proximity of our front doors. “Mrs. Carlson told me that upon hearing ASSOCIATE EDITOR/ says. Cheek got his start in writing The nexus, if there is one, is Raymond Carlson. strange noises down in the living room, she woke VIDEO EDITOR Ameema Ahmed about architecture in 1976, when Although both of our names have appeared in Raymond, who promptly turned over and went PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Jeff Kida he was an education reporter at the same place on this magazine’s masthead, many decades of continental back to sleep,” Mr. Raeburn said. “She then stole CREATIVE DIRECTOR Barbara Glynn Denney the now-defunct Tucson Citizen. drift have made my world very different from his. I suppose some things quietly to the top of the stairs. Because her hair ART DIRECTOR Keith Whitney That year, he visited Florence, are better in the 21st century, most of them because of Steve Jobs, but the was in curlers, she didn’t want to be seen, even MAP DESIGNER Kevin Kibsey southeast of Phoenix, with the stature of the position has changed. In the 1950s, being the editor of Arizona by burglars. As she peered down, she noticed, to PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Michael Bianchi late Harris Sobin, a University of Arizona professor who had done a historic-preservation carried the respect of a nobleman. And the queue of visitors was DIRECTOR OF SALES study of the town. “I hadn’t been in Arizona long and had never seen Florence,” Cheek Highways her great delight, that Frank Lloyd Wright was AND MARKETING Karen Farugia impressive. Like the line outside Sinatra’s dressing room. says. “As we drove into town, I had an immediate reaction of bewilderment: ‘Why should WEBMASTER Victoria Snow “Raymond and his wife, Helen, were one of the most beau- anyone care about preserving these dusty, tired old buildings?’ Sobin replied, ‘Let me CIRCULATION DIRECTOR Nicole Bowman tiful and charming couples in Phoenix,” said Gary Avey, a show you a few things,’ and in two hours, I got an intensive course in the architectural DIRECTOR OF FINANCE Matthew Bailey former editor. “They knew how to party, and their circle of history of the American West. By the end of the day, I was hooked. To this day, when I’m OPERATIONS/ friends included the best-known and most talented people in IT MANAGER Cindy Bormanis back in Arizona for a visit, I’ll take the back road between Tucson and Phoenix so I can the country.” drive through Florence and see how the 19th century is doing there.” Cheek now lives on

If you happened to see our June issue, you know about Ray- CORPORATE OR an island near Seattle and spends most of his time building boats; his latest is a 21-foot mond Carlson’s friendship with Ted DeGrazia, the famous TRADE SALES 602-712-2018 wooden sailboat. “What I learned about architecture through decades of writing about it artist from Tucson. Ansel Adams was another good friend. SPONSORSHIP SALES has definitely found expression in this boat,” he says. “Structural errors in boats have dire REPRESENTATION On Media Publications And so was Frank Lloyd Wright. Their friendship is my con- Deidra Viberg consequences, and aesthetic crimes dishonor a tradition more than a millennium old.” nection. Sitting in Mr. Carlson’s chair, and rifling through old 602-323-9701 papers, I get to see another side of the architect. Glimpses of benevolence that contradict the persona of arrogance. Like LETTERS TO THE EDITOR [email protected] 2039 W. Lewis Avenue KERRICK JAMES the time he designed a home for one of his closest friends. A perspective of the Raymond Carlson House, designed in 1950. Phoenix, AZ 85009 “He’d heard that my wife and I had just bought a plot of land,” Mr. Carlson Pencil and colored pencil on tracing paper, 32 x 36 inches. “Our structures reflect so said. “He asked if there was anything he could do to help, and I told him that Copyright © 2019 Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation, much more than our his- GOVERNOR Douglas A. Ducey I couldn’t afford his fee. He sat there tapping his cane, and then he smiled. Scottsdale, AZ. All rights reserved. The Frank Lloyd tory,” says Kerrick James, Wright Foundation Archives (The Museum of Modern DIRECTOR, ‘I have two prices,’ he said. ‘I either charge a hell of a lot. Or I charge nothing.’ ” Art | Avery Architectural & Fine Arts Library, Colum- DEPARTMENT who photographed The benefits of being a nobleman. bia University, New York) OF TRANSPORTATION John S. Halikowski 10 of Arizona’s iconic By the time it was finished, “the Carlson House cost $15,000,” Frank Lloyd structures (see Different Wright wrote in 1950, “including the architect’s fee of 10 percent. It is so finely in her living room, rearranging the furniture.” Arizona Highways® (ISSN 0004-1521) is published by Design, page 36) for monthly by the Arizona Department of Transportation. built I am giving half my fee to the builder as a reward of merit. The rest of the When he was finished, Mr. Wright took a look Subscription price: $24 a year in the U.S., $44 outside this month’s issue. “They the U.S. Single copy: $4.99 U.S. Call 800-543-5432. UP- reveal our priorities, our fee goes to Raymond himself to help furnish his aristocratic little gem of a house.” at his handiwork and said: “I guess we’ve done DATED PRIVACY POLICY: Our privacy policy has been And so he did. it, Gene. Let’s go home.” As they were headed to updated to reflect the new changes in data protection personalities and our laws, including the EU’s General Data Protection Regu- Among the most interesting features of what’s now known as the “Ray- the door, they heard a voice say, “Good night.” lations. To read our updated privacy policy, go to www heart as a culture, and mond Carlson House” is the dumbwaiter the Carlsons used to move their In response, Mr. Wright took off his hat, bowed .arizonahighways.com/privacy-policy. Subscription cor­re­ I find them truly fascinating.” James is a longtimeArizona Highways contributor, but this spon­dence and change of address information: Arizona parrots up and down the home’s three stories. “As a kid, I spent an entire gallantly and said, “Good night, Mrs. Carlson.” Highways, P.O. Box 8521, Big Sandy, TX 75755-8521. Peri­ was his first assignment shooting solely architecture. The biggest challenge, he says, was summer entrusted to teach their parrots (Polly and Gonzalez) to talk,” Gary Later he learned that the voice wasn’t hers — it odical postage paid at Phoenix, AZ, and at additional “to go beyond mere documentation and find, or instill, a sense of time and connection to mailing office. Canada Post international publications Avey said. “By September, I had a few good bite scars and developed a fond- came from one of the parrots. mail product (Cana­dian distribution) sales agree­ment the physical setting” via changing light, shifting clouds or an unforeseen angle. At Taliesin No. 40732015. Send returns to Quad/Graphics, P.O. Box West, for example, James had always photographed at sunset, so this time, he planned a ness for crackers. The birds, however, remained mute.” The next day, a delivery truck pulled up in 456, Niagara Falls ON L2E 6V2. Post­master: Send ad- Or so he thought. front of the Carlsons’ home. Turns out, Mr. Wright dress changes to Arizona Highways, P.O. Box 8521, Big sunrise shoot — and nearly ran out of time to get his shots. “Fortunately, I’d scouted and Sandy, TX 75755-8521. Copy­right © 2019 by the Ari­zona Mixed in with the old papers is a story by Ben Raeburn, who published wasn’t quite finished. In the truck was a “magnifi- Department of Trans­­por­­tation. Repro­duc­tion in whole or knew precisely where I wanted to set the tripod, so I achieved my desired image with just the complete works of Frank Lloyd Wright. As the story goes, Mr. Wright cently beautiful rug” for the Carlsons’ living room. in part with­­out permission is prohibited. The magazine a handful of captures and two angles,” he says. James considers two other structures on does not accept and is not responsible for un­solicited asked Gene Masselink, his longtime secretary, to drive him into Phoenix The benefits of being a nobleman. mater­ ials.­ the list, Wukoki Pueblo and Mission San Xavier del Bac, his favorite buildings in Arizona. for a late appointment. After dinner, Mr. Wright said, “Let’s drop in on the ROBERT STIEVE, EDITOR His other recent work includes writing and shooting features on the Grand Canyon’s cen- PRODUCED IN THE USA Carlsons.” When they got to the house, it was dark inside, except for a night Follow me on Instagram: @arizonahighways tennial and Colorado’s slice of the Four Corners region. — NOAH AUSTIN

2 JULY 2019 PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL MARKOW PHOTOGRAPHS: TOP DENNIS RYERSON ABOVE, RIGHT ART HOLEMAN www.arizonahighways.com 3 LETTERS [email protected] THE JOURNAL

my wife and I have Window Over the past 27 years, visited 40 of our wonderful national parks. And we’ve extensively hiked Display many of them, including 270 miles on foot below the rim of The varnished walls of the Grand Canyon. Based on those experiences, I’m taking a rocky alcove frame a view exception to a sentence in Robert Stieve’s editor’s letter in of the sky in the remote the May 2019 issue. He said, “... have made the park one of Vermilion Cliffs of Northern the crown jewels of the National Park Service.” In my not-so- Arizona. The cliffs are the humble opinion, the sentence should read, “... have made the namesake of Vermilion park the crown jewel of the National Park Service.” Cliffs National Monument, which protects nearly Rick Anstey, Denver, Colorado 300,000 acres of geo- logical wonders and other natural resources along Arizona’s border with Utah. For more information, call was born and raised in Tucson, and know it’s the best sandwich in town. to support the local mom-and-pop shops in the Bureau of Land Manage- graduated from the University of Perhaps you need to do a special article Arizona. Our April issue accomplished all of the ment’s Arizona Strip Field I Arizona. I spent my summers work- about one of the oldest businesses in above, and we’re very proud of it — we like to Office at 435-688-3200 or visit www.blm.gov/arizona. ing for the Forest Service doing sur- Sedona. think that Arizona Highways is good at more than vey work in the Apache-Sitgreaves Celeste Barrett Rubanick, Cornville, Arizona just “natural history” and “photography.” Of NIKON D810, 1/5 SEC, F/8, ISO 64, 14 MM LENS National Forests, stationed most of the course, I’m fully aware that none of my words time at the Overgaard Ranger Station. thought the article by Chels Knorr [His are going to change your mind, but I write with Annette McGivney’s article on Chevelon Hearth Is in the Right Place, April 2019] the hope that you’ll come away with the Crossing [Scenic Drive, May 2019] I was very well written. She did a great understanding that we put a lot of thought and brought back many memories, because job of explaining the bread baking pro- consideration into what we do every month, I traveled that road from Winslow to cess in an informative and understand- even if you don’t agree with our choices. Heber-Overgaard many times over able way. I also enjoyed learning more those three summers. In addition, Barry about Mediterra Bakehouse. y son and his wife moved from the Goldwater’s article on his trip down the Hilary Hartline, Phoenix Midwest to Arizona more than 10 Colorado River [An Odyssey of the Green M years ago. I’ve had the privilege of and Colorado, May 2019] was fabulous. was put off by the theme of where to visiting from Minnesota for that time The story was well written and detailed, indulge in high-calorie, high-fat sand- period. My son, his wife and I made and the pictures added to the story. I wiches [The Arizona Highways Sandwich our first “serious” Arizona excursion I’ve been down to Havasu Canyon Tour, April 2019]. Please don’t sink to a into Havasu Canyon in May 2008. Every many times, and almost got to the “foodie” mentality, as you have with the year subsequent to that trip, my son Colorado once, hiking from the camp- latest issue. Stick to what you are good has given me a subscription to Arizona ground, but ran out of time. Maybe I at: natural history and photography. Highways. I wish to compliment you could have seen a rafting trip passing by Anything else cheapens a wonderful on a beautiful magazine. Your articles if I’d made it all the way. Mr. Goldwater magazine. have inspired many Arizona excursions was a true Arizona hero, and a great Phil Griswold, Sun City, Arizona for my son, his family and me. These politician and historian. We need more include trips to Sedona, the Grand like him today. EDITOR’S NOTE: Thank you for your input. To be Canyon, Saguaro National Park, Tonto Van Pruitt, Lago Vista, Texas frank, we expected a few responses like yours. Natural Bridge State Park and Patagonia And we can understand your desire to see a mag- Lake State Park. Thank you for a won- ow on earth did Kelly Vaughn make azine packed with broad landscape images every derful magazine. this trip and write this article with- month. But here’s the thing: We’re not a photog- Tim Lenartz, Cottage Grove, Minnesota H out checking with Sedona-area locals raphy magazine; we’re a travel magazine. And about where to find the best sandwich one of the expectations of a travel magazine is contact us If you have thoughts or com- [The Arizona Highways Sandwich Tour, to inform readers about where to eat — food is ments about anything in Arizona Highways, we’d April 2019]? Sedona Memories on Jordan one of the components of travel. Furthermore, love to hear from you. We can be reached at editor@ arizonahighways.com, or by mail at 2039 W. Lewis Road has been making the perfect sand- we’re mandated by our mission statement to Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85009. For more information, wich for more than 20 years, and we all promote travel throughout the state in an effort visit www.arizonahighways.com.

4 JULY 2019 PHOTOGRAPH BY DOUG KOEPSEL J nature

Bald Eagles

AMEEMA AHMED

Bald eagles (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) build their nests near water, and in Ari- zona, they’re often found along the Salt and Verde rivers. Each nest generally has one to three eggs that incubate for about 35 days. The two newly hatched eaglets in this Bartlett Lake nest could grow to be as long as 37 inches and have a wing- span of up to 7.5 feet. Once grown, they’ll feast primarily on fish, small mammals and water birds, but they also might steal food from other raptors. Bald eagles are no longer on the endangered species list, but they’re still protected under the federal Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act. According to the Arizona Game and Fish Department, a record 87 bald eagle eggs hatched in the state during the 2018 breeding season.

ADDITIONAL READING: To learn more about Arizona’s wildlife, pick up a copy of the Arizona Highways Wildlife Guide, which features 125 of the state’s native birds, mammals, reptiles and other animal spe- cies. To order online, visit www .shoparizonahighways.com.

6 JULY 2019 PHOTOGRAPH BY BRUCE D. TAUBERT www.arizonahighways.com 7 J history dining J

THIS MONTH are served with spiced rice and refried IN HISTORY Casa Mañana pinto beans. n Miners in Bisbee go on In Safford, customers don’t like to wait for their food, and at this popular If you’re in the mood for something strike in July 1917. Sub- eatery, they don’t have to. But don’t mistake fast food for “fast food.” unique, try a Hoopes family dessert: sequently, about 1,200 The menu here takes “homestyle cooking” to a new level. funnel-cake-batter fries, topped with participants are rounded powdered sugar and served with dip- up and put on a train east- KAYLA FROST ping sauce. You wouldn’t have found that ward — an action known on the Gabaldons’ menu, nor would you as the Bisbee Deportation. IN ARIZONA, you can find respectable years of changes, the restaurant started have found the Hawaiian-themed dishes n On July 14, 1976, a fire Mexican food almost anywhere, and Saf- getting busy again — so busy, in fact, Adam cooked up in the summer of 2005 is discovered smoldering ford, a small town in the eastern part of that the Hoopeses added rooms onto the because he “didn’t have time to go on in Rampart Cave in the the state, is no exception. That’s where original brick house to accommodate the vacation.” Now, that seasonal menu is a Grand Canyon. It burns the owners of Casa Mañana faithfully guests coming through their doors to Casa Mañana mainstay. for several months and re-create recipes passed down by the enjoy dishes such as chiles rellenos, tacos On a recent Saturday afternoon, an destroys thousands of original owners — who took the concept and tamales. older couple is dining in a small brick Apollo 15 astronauts James Irwin (left) and Dave Scott explore a cinder field near years of bones and dung of “homestyle cooking” to a new level. “This town does not wait for food,” room that once was the house’s porch. Flagstaff in “Grover,” a training version of the lunar rover, in the late 1960s. from giant Shasta ground Emma Gabaldon and her husband, Adam says. “We wanted to serve families The alcove was the first room in the res- sloths. Gaby, started the family restaurant out of faster.” taurant that was finished, they explain, n On July 4, 1963, Annie their house in 1951, and it quickly became The service is indeed prompt. Right and they often spend anniversaries there. From Arizona to the Moon Dodge Wauneka becomes a beloved gathering place for locals. after you’re seated at Casa Mañana, When they finish their lunch, Adam Twelve astronauts have walked on the moon, but before doing so, each of them trained in the first Native American When Adam Hoopes and his mother, you’re treated to a basket of mixed corn helps the woman to her feet. Northern Arizona, including Neil Armstrong, who took his giant leap 50 years ago this month. to receive the Presidential Diane, bought Casa Mañana in 2004, and flour tortilla chips with two kinds of “It’s hard to get out of a chair at age 92,” Medal of Freedom, for her they committed themselves to preserving salsa. But save room for the main course, she says. “Age 90,” her husband insists. NOAH AUSTIN work to improve health, the food and atmosphere Safford resi- because portions are generous. Among “No fighting,” Adam says with a laugh. well-being and education dents grew to love when the Gabaldons the locals’ favorites are the green chile Lighthearted bickering and good food ... ifty years ago this month, Neil Arm- would perform on Earth’s closest neighbor. on the Navajo Nation. were at the helm. chimichanga special and the creamy what could be more appropriate for a casa strong and Buzz Aldrin made history as They visited Grand Canyon National Park to And those residents took notice. After chicken enchiladas. Many of the dishes than that? the first human beings to set foot on the learn the basics of how layers of rock are laid F moon. But before that, they and other down over billions of years. “These guys were astronauts in the Apollo program traveled to fighter-pilot ‘jocks’ and not necessarily inter- 50 YEARS AGO Northern Arizona for a dress rehearsal of their ested in geology,” Schindler says. “The think- IN ARIZONA HIGHWAYS lunar exploration. ing was that if they visited an inspiring place In many ways, the northern part of the like the Grand Canyon, it might generate state was perfect for the astronauts’ training, more of an interest. And it worked.” says Kevin Schindler, a longtime employee of Flagstaff became a hub for the 200 scien- Flagstaff’s Lowell Observatory. “The geology tists, engineers and technicians in the train- and topography is analogous to what they’d ing program, and NASA and the USGS rented find on the moon,” says Schindler, who co- garages and other buildings around town to authored the 2018 book Northern Arizona Space build rovers and test the astronauts’ special- Training with astronomy historian William ized equipment. Ultimately, each of the Sheehan. “Meteor Crater, the best-preserved 12 astronauts who walked on the moon — impact crater on Earth, is exactly what they’d from Armstrong and Aldrin, on Apollo 11, expect to find on the moon.” to Eugene Cernan and Harrison Schmitt, on The paintings of R. Brownell Farther north, NASA and the U.S. Geo- Apollo 17 — spent time in Northern Arizona McGrew filled the pages logical Survey partnered to create their own while training for their missions. of our July 1969 issue. lunar landscape. They used dynamite to blast Schindler and Sheehan’s book is full of McGrew ventured into craters out of a cinder field near Sunset Crater historical photos that document Arizona’s Northeastern Arizona’s Volcano National Monument, northeast of connection to the Apollo program. “Most of Navajo Nation to paint Flagstaff. By burying the dynamite at different Flagstaff doesn’t really know just how many portraits of Navajos and depths, workers could create different-sized different facilities were used and how many scenes of their every- craters and mimic the Apollo landing sites on people were involved,” Schindler says. “These day life. Excerpts from the moon. Those craters are still visible today. astronauts were the rock stars of their time. McGrew’s journal entries In a larger sense, the training laid a founda- It’s just great to see these pictures and see from his travels in Navajo tion for the scientific research the astronauts what these guys did out here.” and Hopi lands were published alongside his FLAGSTAFF Lowell Observatory, 928-774-3358, www.lowell.edu paintings. SAFFORD Casa Mañana, 502 S. First Avenue, 928-428-3170, www.casacrave.com

8 JULY 2019 PHOTOGRAPH: COURTESY OF ASTROGEOLOGY SCIENCE CENTER, U.S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY PHOTOGRAPH BY STEVEN MECKLER www.arizonahighways.com 9 J around arizona

Scottsdale Artists’ School Located in the historic Loloma Elementary School in Old Town, Scottsdale’s nationally acclaimed art school set itself apart by forgoing faculty and curriculum. Instead, the founders enlisted professional artists to teach the school’s workshops. And they’re still doing it today.

KATHY MONTGOMERY

n the beginning, New York had the Art Students With the help of a loan from the Scottsdale Art- League, Chicago had the Art Institute, and the ists League, the fledgling school opened in 1983 I Southwest had … three people with a vision. It with a single classroom in the former Kaibab Ele- was the 1980s — the Dark Ages, as far as propo- mentary School. “We had a huge studio,” Morrison nents of the traditional arts were concerned. And recalls. “And nice, big windows we could control this trinity — Wade Fairchild, James Reynolds the light with.” and Maxine Johnston — said, “Let there be a Reynolds taught a workshop and brought in Scottsdale Artists’ School.” And it was good. other well-known Western artists, such as Roy A member of an influential New York publishing Andersen, who would later join Cowboy Artists of family, Fairchild had contacts and money, John- America. Fairchild drew upon his connections at ston recalls. “Jim Reynolds was one of the most the Art Students League, where he had studied. respected traditional cowboy artists,” she adds. “One of the best sculptors and one of the most unusual was Bruno Lucchesi, who was teaching at the National Academy of Design in New York City,” Morrison recalls. “We had Gustav Rehberger, who was one of the best figurative teachers of drawing. My goodness, if we didn’t put together a stellar group of teachers our very first year. And it really knocked the socks off of a lot of people across the country.” When the school district refused to renew the school’s lease in 1986, the school moved into the second floor of an office building in a Scottsdale strip mall. “His name was magic. I was kind of the glue … with “It was very primitive,” recalls Ruth Kaspar, enthusiasm to push this thing through and baby it.” executive director in the 1990s. “They had these Their innovation was to forgo faculty and cur- giant orange water containers, and they’d get filled riculum, and instead enlist professional artists to up, and that’s what our water source was.” teach workshops. “For the first time, a school opens So it was big news when the school moved into up and there’s no teachers,” Johnston says. “We the renovated Loloma Elementary School on Mar- had the better mousetrap. … Students signed up for shall Way in 1994. The historic Spanish Colonial school celebrated with a black-tie dinner and art serving everyone, including absolute beginners. Artist Amery Bohling (center) classes strictly on the basis of who the instructor building featured arching windows, Saltillo tile sale — a forerunner of the Beaux Arts Gala, which “When I talk to people and tell them I’m teaches a painting class at the Scottsdale Artists’ was. They wanted to put on their résumé they stud- corridors and room to grow. But the renovation had became the school’s annual fundraiser. involved, they say, ‘Oh, I would love to be good School, which has been host- ied with [that instructor]. And it wasn’t a lie.” been daunting. “It was an unbelievable mess,” Kas- Over the years, the school expanded its size and enough to go there,’ ” says artist Nancy Chaboun, ing workshops taught by pro- In the early days, Fairchild served as the par recalls. “Bums had lived in there, and you could offerings, most recently adding children’s and com- a board member, teacher and student. “And I just fessional artists since 1983. school’s volunteer director, hiring Shari Hawks find where they had built little fires and they’d munity outreach programs. Yet its methods and feel it’s a school. We want you to learn and enjoy it (now Shari Morrison) as his assistant. She soon pulled all the air conditioning out of the ceiling.” vision remain remarkably unchanged. That includes and have fun.” took over, becoming the school’s first paid execu- When it was finished, architect Douglas Syd- tive director. nor won a 1994 award for the renovation, and the SCOTTSDALE Scottsdale Artists’ School, 3720 N. Marshall Way, 480-990-1422, www.scottsdaleartschool.org

10 JULY 2019 PHOTOGRAPHS BY JEFF KIDA www.arizonahighways.com 11 photography J

Q&A: Sean Parker

PHOTO EDITOR JEFF KIDA

JK: How did this photo come together? JK: What makes it so difficult? SP: I was chasing storms that day with SP: A lot of times, lightning isn’t where the Arizona Illustrated TV show. They were you want it to be. I’ve spent a lot of time doing a story on my storm chasing “addic- studying weather patterns, and now I’m tion,” and it kind of worked out perfectly. a certified storm spotter for some of the We were down in Sahuarita, and I saw the networks I use. There also can be safety storm developing near San Xavier on radar, concerns, and I’ve had close calls that so we raced out there. I didn’t have many have opened my eyes to the risks and good photos of the mission during a storm, reminded me to be aware of my surround- and I ended up getting two of my best ings. Patience is the biggest key. I always images that day. tell people who are starting out with storm chasing that it’s going to take a while to JK: What are the mechanics of a shot get that perfect shot. Use long exposures like this? and a shutter release cable, or invest in a SP: I like to do really long exposures. lightning trigger. And make sure you’re not I shoot a lot of time-lapse photography, too close to the lightning. so I can get both still photos and video of the lightning. This one is a 10-second exposure at f/5. I’m considering switching PHOTO from Canon to Nikon, so I was borrowing WORKSHOP my friend’s Nikon D850 that day. My first photo was a tighter shot that also showed some lightning. When the rain stopped and I could get out from under the back hatch of my car, I could walk around and try some different compositions.

JK: You do a lot of astronomy photo- graphy. Do storms fall into the same category? SP: I think so. I chase the thrill. I’m always Autumn in Arizona looking for new ways to get excited and October 2-6, Northern Arizona create excitement through my photog- Photographer Shane McDermott, raphy. I’ve been photographing weather a frequent Arizona Highways contributor, for five years, but really doing it passion- will help you make the most of fall in ately the past few years. In the summer, Arizona’s high country. Participants will because of the monsoon storms, I can’t photograph golden aspen leaves and stun- shoot astronomy as much. Lightning is ning sunsets in the Flagstaff area and just as exciting because of how hard it is at the Grand Canyon’s North Rim. to capture. Information: 888-790-7042 or www.ahps.org

To learn more about photography, visit www.arizonahighways.com/photography.

12 JULY 2019 PHOTOGRAPHS: ABOVE SEAN PARKER ABOVE, RIGHT SHANE McDERMOTT www.arizonahighways.com 13 J photography

Monument Valley

ROBERT STIEVE

Of all the magical places in Arizona, Monument Valley was one of Barry Goldwater’s favorites. This photograph from 1967 is typical of the scenes he captured in the middle of the last cen- tury. In his book Barry Goldwater’s People and Places, which was published by Random House that same year, he wrote: “Until very recently, sheep have constituted the Navajo family’s big- gest source of income. The semi-nomadic quality of their lives comes in a large measure from ‘following the sheep.’ There are places warm enough to care for the sheep during the cold winters, usually in the protected bottoms of canyons. Grass is found on the plateaus during the spring, summer and early fall, so the sheep are slowly moved there. One of the most beautiful awakenings I have ever had was just before sunrise on the Navajo desert. I was drowsing in my bedroll, with the East becoming a delicate shade of rich red, when suddenly I was aware of a delightful sound which seemed a perfect accompa- niment to the birth of a new day. The sound was the low clank of a sheep’s bell in concert with the soft, young voices of four Navajo girls already at work getting the sheep together for the day’s grazing.”

To see more of Barry Goldwater’s photography, check out Photographs by Barry M. Goldwater: The Arizona Highways Collection at Western Spirit: Scottsdale’s Museum of the West. The exhibition will run through March 27, 2020. To learn more about the show, visit www.scottsdale museumwest.org. To learn more about the Barry & Peggy Goldwater Foundation, which is working to restore and digitize Barry Goldwater’s 15,000 photographs, visit www.goldwaterfoundation.org.

14 JULY 2019 PHOTOGRAPH BY BARRY GOLDWATER, COURTESY OF THE BARRY & PEGGY GOLDWATER FOUNDATION www.arizonahighways.com 15 J lodging

drive south, and the road to the Fossil The Strawberry Inn Springs Trailhead is just up the highway. When summer rolls around, the Mogollon Rim is one of the best places There’s other hiking in the area, too, and to be. And one of the best places to call it a night is an eight-room inn with afterward, trekkers can cool off on the an alluring windmill. patio at That Brewery in Pine before get- ting a quiet night’s sleep at the inn. NOAH AUSTIN Facebook and Instagram have driven the inn’s popularity: Amber says social CARSON EILERS SAYS he’d talked and the inn is drawing visitors from the media has accounted for more than half himself out of buying the building that Phoenix area and beyond. of the bookings. “We even have people became the Strawberry Inn, figuring it The eight rooms vary in décor, but from other states fly in to stay here, was too dilapidated to turn into a viable each has stylish tile floors, shiplap walls, which is remarkable to me,” Carson says. business. But then he showed it to his reliable Wi-Fi and a comfortable king or And many first-time visitors have become wife, Amber. “She fell in love with it,” he queen bed. On the ground floor, most regulars. “We want it to be a place where says, laughing, “and it’s kind of hard to rooms include a futon, and two of the people come again and again,” Amber turn that ship around.” rooms connect to accommodate larger says, noting that some visitors photo- The Scottsdale couple completely parties. The rooms on the second floor graph their kids in front of the windmill renovated the property, which dates to share a deck with delightful views of year after year to document their growth. the 1970s and originally was an office Mogollon Rim Country. It’s become a popular place for engage- building. People who drive through Off the property, there’s plenty to do ments, too. “I think we’re 5 for 5 now on Strawberry on State Route 87 know it for — especially in the summer, when Straw- people saying yes to wedding proposals,” the windmill out front, which once held berry is much cooler than the Phoenix area Amber says. Apparently, it’s hard to say a small coffee shop. That windmill has despite being less than two hours away. no when it comes to the Strawberry Inn.

ION OF S PANTONE 357C IAT TA C TE C=88 O M=45 S F S O Y=98 R A K=16 L E S A become a popular background for photos, Tonto Natural Bridge State Park is a short But its owners found that out already. T N

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F 0 O 92 UNDED 1 STRAWBERRY The Strawberry Inn, 5073 State Route 87, 928-202-7790, www.thestrawberryinn.com

16 JULY 2019 PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL MARKOW SPANISH ACCENT AN ESSAY BY LAWRENCE W. CHEEK

RCHITECTURE IS MORE THAN artful shelter. Architecture is culture, one of the most fundamental ways we express who we are. Architecture is our history, our mythology and our aspirations, all gathered up and mortared into physical presence. If it’s sometimes Acontradictory or confusing, well, how could it not be? Where is there a people in the 21st century whose culture is uncomplicated? The long-running parade of “Spanish” architec- ture in Arizona is our quest for a cultural identity, and, yes, it’s confusing. And, in some quarters, controversial. Despite its ubiquity, most architects in Arizona today avoid it. Many critics disdain it. I was one of them. When I worked as an architec- ture critic for Tucson and Phoenix newspapers in the 1980s and ’90s, I thought it the architectural equivalent of pulp fiction and labeled the late 20th century version of it “Taco Deco.” After living away from Arizona for more than 20 years, I returned to see if it felt any different. The original Spanish-derived architecture of Arizona was plenty authentic. We can savor it in the ruin of Mission San José de Tumacácori, the Baroque exuberance of Mission San Xavier del Bac and the late 19th century adobe row houses still standing in Tucson’s Barrio Historico and Presidio neighborhoods. But the railroad that OPPOSITE PAGE: Phoenix’s Brophy College Preparatory, which dates to 1928, is among Arizona’s best-known translations of Spanish architecture. Richard Maack

ABOVE: Tucson’s Presidio neighborhood offers a colorful example of Spanish-derived design. Jeff Maltzman

18 JULY 2019 www.arizonahighways.com 19 punched into Arizona in the 1870s and ’80s delivered the building materials and aesthetic predilections of Anglo Amer- ica. Adobe was suddenly scorned, and the faddish costume party of the time — Italianate Victorian, Greek Revival, Tudor Revival — was ascendant. For a couple of decades, Arizonans busily worked to build American-looking town centers and neighborhoods. But then a funny thing happened, illustrating how architec- ture doesn’t only grow from culture — it can be employed to mold a culture. In 1893, Chicago threw a world’s fair dubbed the World’s Columbian Exposition. Most of the buildings wore stoic, Neoclassical dress, but flaky California showed up with a building inspired by its Spanish missions. That one building sparked an architectural stampede in the West, which had been aching for a way to declare independence from the East Coast design establishment. A young architect named Henry Trost, who had been a draftsman in Chicago at the time of the exposition, became the pipeline to Arizona. He moved to Tucson in 1899 and almost immediately won a design commission for the Owls Club on Main Street. The building he designed, now known as the Steinfeld Mansion, adroitly bridged the Mission Revival style, with its scalloped parapet and thematic arches, to the then- modern geometric ornamentation of Chicago’s Louis Sullivan. Soon, many modest homes, churches and even a Tucson cow barn strutted Mission dress. A second, even more influential wave of Spanish-inspired architecture rolled out in 1915 from the Panama-California Exhibition in San Diego. The Spanish Colonial Revival was more flamboyant, more lavishly decorated and more wildly exotic than its predecessor. The translations that material- ized in Arizona were fortunately more restrained than the California models, and they now are some of the state’s most cherished buildings: the Ajo town center of 1926, Phoenix’s Brophy College Preparatory of 1928 and Tucson’s Pima County Courthouse of 1928. A Swiss-born architect in Tucson, Josias T. Joesler, synthesized the two revivals into one with Saint Philip’s in the Hills Episcopal Church in 1936. Although Joesler couldn’t have intended it, the church’s high, flat, starkly unadorned facade almost appears postmodern. It seems like a nexus linking different eras, places and cultures. It’s also Opened in 1973, a homes-for-sale magazine for North exotic roots. The late James Byrkit, a modern realities, such as fiercely hot 1973 and modeled on the artisanal vil- quite beautiful. Sedona’s Tlaquepaque Phoenix and Scottsdale. Out of 204 Southwestern historian at Northern summers and precious water. Interest- lage of San Pedro Tlaquepaque, near is modeled on The revivals flamed out in the building boom after World a Mexican artisanal houses, 46 percent featured some form Arizona University, once told me he ingly, this might well borrow some Guadalajara, Mexico. Realized by Abe War II, when modernism took root in Arizona, as everywhere. village. It evokes of “Spanish” architectural imagery. believed it was a way for us to “escape Mediterranean traditions, such as Miller, a Nevada hotel and restaurant Romanticism, ornamentation and historical references became the past, but also On one level, this long-running fasci- our Puritan heritage, which is prag- shaded interior courtyards instead of developer, its courtyards, fountains, log- a sense of serenity and high crimes in architecture, and Arizona cities began to look connection to nature. nation with Hispanic architecture can matic, rather than sensual.” He went on grassy yards. But this would mean a gias and antique wooden gates — most like cities anywhere. Which was a problem. Not only did glass Derek von Briesen be seen as an expression of Arizona’s to quote H.L. Mencken on Puritanism: deeper change in living style — maybe of the artifacts did indeed come from boxes fail to consider Arizona’s climate, they also said noth- past as an outpost and claimed posses- “The haunting fear that someone, some- something more than an Arizona new- Mexico — work for the feel of an ideal- ing about cultural heritage — and the people flocking into sion of Spain in the 18th century, and where, may be happy.” comer would be willing to undertake. ized Mexican village, one that never this strange, young, still-malleable place craved to feel rooted its southern region’s time as a Mexican I hammered repeatedly on this On a late-fall day in 2018, I returned knew poverty or the mixed blessing of in something. Out of this, starting in the 1970s, came a third territory from 1821 to 1854. And its pres- third revival, partly because it often to the most carefully crafted Hispanic industrialization. I note also that it has revival of Hispanic-themed architecture, sort of a grab bag of ent: The U.S. Census Bureau estimates was badly and cheaply done, and also fantasy in Arizona, intentionally arriv- aged with extraordinary grace: It seems arches, simplified classical columns, imitation bell towers and that 31.4 percent of Arizonans in 2017 because it was a shameless fantasy: ing in the early morning, before any far older than its 45 years, but not to its red tile roofs. It’s still too young to have official standing in claimed Hispanic or Latino heritage. It evoked a grand, luxurious life, in of the shops opened, so I could con- detriment. Miller wove the buildings the annals of architectural history, but promoters simply call But on another level, it can be seen as sprawling ranches on the Spanish fron- template it quietly, without crowds. around great riparian sycamores that it “Spanish” or “Mediterranean.” And it became remarkably a wider craving in the Anglo culture to tier, that never existed here. I argued for Sedona’s Tlaquepaque is an arts and had long existed on the site, and it now pervasive. For a 1988 article in Phoenix New Times, I surveyed graft onto seemingly more expressive, an Arizona architecture that addressed crafts shopping center first opened in seems as though the architecture and

20 JULY 2019 www.arizonahighways.com 21 In his 2006 book The Architecture of Happiness, the popular British philosopher Alain de Botton suggested that it is “architecture’s task to render vivid to us who we might ideally be.” That’s as beautiful a mission statement for architecture as has yet been written.

forest are one inseparable entity — the Roman architecture borrowed from “a way to keep tabs on our history.” Like inorganic bricks, stone and stucco hav- Greek, the Italian Renaissance raided Tlaquepaque, it’s aged gracefully, and ing somehow merged with the authentic both, and in 1773, Tumacácori, far out it now seems like a building — maybe ancientness of the trees. on the Spanish frontier of North Amer- the building — that perfectly captures Tlaquepaque is unquestionably beau- ica, reached back to the Renaissance for the essence of the mélange that is 21st tiful, and — I realize — the fact that it’s the columns and pediment of its facade. century Tucson. a romantic fantasy has no bearing on The whole history of architecture teems In his 2006 book The Architecture of the way it makes us feel: serene, unhur- with borrowings, adaptations and Happiness, the popular British philoso- ried, connected to nature. And evoking cross-pollination. pher Alain de Botton suggested that it the past isn’t only escapism. It’s also I recall another building I’ve always is “architecture’s task to render vivid a way of establishing a continuum, a liked: a courtyard townhouse complex to us who we might ideally be.” That’s sense that human cultures are linked at 3310 E. Second Street in Tucson. as beautiful a mission statement for throughout our long history. Classical Built in 1973, it presents a blank, sand- architecture as has yet been written. colored wall to the street, while behind Considering Arizona’s Spanish-accented it, a collection of knife-edged, angular architecture in its light, our ideal is to LEFT: A rainbow forms over the dome of the Pima County Courthouse in Tucson. Completed in 1928, rooflines elbow the sky. And there’s be a people uniquely respectful of all the the building has been on the National Register of one picturesque detail: a noble but still roots that have taken hold in this land Historic Places since 1978. Randy Prentice slightly whimsical Mission Revival — Native American, Hispanic, Anglo- ABOVE: Tucson’s Steinfeld Mansion, designed entryway grafted improbably onto this American and more. If we sometimes by Henry Trost, combines elements of the Mission Revival style with comparatively modern thoroughly modern profile. Architect romanticize the reality, perhaps that’s architectural elements. Steven Meckler Bill Hubartt once explained it to me as one way of expressing the ideal.

22 JULY 2019 www.arizonahighways.com 23 PORTAL In architecture, a portal is an entrance or gate in a wall. Elaborate, ornate portals often are found in Gothic and Baroque churches and palaces. In nature, portals usually are simpler. They sometimes occur in the sandstone walls of slot canyons, such as Antelope Canyon near Page. Larry Lindahl

LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE A PORTFOLIO EDITED BY JEFF KIDA

24 JULY 2019 SPIRES A spire is the termination of a tower, and it’s usually shaped like a pyramid or a cone. Milan Cathedral is famous for its forest of spires and pinnacles. The hoodoos at Chiricahua National Monument are a natural illustration: They formed over tens of thousands of years, as ice gradually widened cracks in the volcanic rock to create otherworldly columns. Jack Dykinga

www.arizonahighways.com 27 COLUMNS When people think of columns, they often imagine Greek and Roman architecture, but the use of these weight-bearing structural elements dates to at least the Iron Age. In contrast, ponderosa pines and aspens, such as these along the Grand Canyon’s Rainbow Rim Trail, need only support themselves — and an occasional squirrel or bird. Shane McDermott

ARCH A curved structure that spans an opening is known as an arch. Some arches are free-standing, while others support the weight above them. Arches in nature rarely are as symmetrical as those found in architecture, but Royal Arch, near the Navajo Nation town of Cove, comes fairly close when viewed at the correct angle. David Muench

28 JULY 2019 www.arizonahighways.com 29 SYMMETRY Symmetry in architecture became common as civilizations arose, although the ways in which symmetry has been employed in building design have shifted over time. Sometimes, we come across near-perfect symmetry in nature, such as this blooming saguaro cactus in the foothills of the Santa Catalina Mountains. Jack Dykinga

BUTTRESS A buttress is a projecting support that’s built against a wall to resist the outward thrust caused by the weight of a building’s roof. This natural rock “buttress” in the Sedona area ordinarily offers a stunning view, but when this photo was made, it was shrouded by a heavy layer of fog. Mark Frank

30 JULY 2019 MOSAIC Mosaics date to around 3000 B.C., and while they aren’t strictly an architectural element, pieces of colored glass or stone have been arranged into pieces of art to adorn buildings throughout history. These jumbled pieces of petrified wood at Petrified Forest National Park are more random than a typical mosaic, but they’re beautiful in their own way. Thomas Wiewandt

TERRACES One of the best-known examples of terraces in architecture is Fallingwater, the Pennsylvania home designed by Frank Lloyd Wright and built over a waterfall. It’s easy to picture a similar structure in Havasu Canyon, where the blue-green water of Havasu Creek tumbles over “terraces” of travertine. Suzanne Mathia

32 JULY 2019 www.arizonahighways.com 33 DOME The use of domes in architecture extends into prehistory, and today, domes adorn the U.S. Capitol, St. Peter’s Basilica and other iconic structures. A similar shape can be found in SP Crater, north of Flagstaff. Estimates vary on the age of this cinder cone volcano, but some scientists say it’s more than 70,000 years old. Tom Bean

34 JULY 2019 DIFFERENT BY DESIGN

People visit Arizona from around the world. Usually, it’s for the things that Mother Nature has built — Sedona, the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley. But there are some man-made structures worth a look, too. Some of them are well known — such as Mission San Xavier del Bac and Taliesin West — while others are not. All, however, are worthy of contemplation. BY LAWRENCE W. CHEEK PHOTOGRAPHS BY KERRICK JAMES

36 JULY 2019 www.arizonahighways.com 37 EDITOR’S NOTE: In May 1984, we welcomed Larry Cheek to the pages of Arizona Highways. His story that month, which we billed as an “article about Arizona’s storied edifices — from Ana- sazi to Arcosanti, from Wupatki to Wright” — was a fascinating look at the state’s architectural BURTON BARR history. Thirty-five years later, we asked Larry to revisit the subject. CENTRAL LIBRARY [preceding panel] hen an architect designs a building for Arizona, Phoenix the problems and opportunities are like nowhere 1995 | William P. Bruder, DWL Architects else. First is the landscape, magnificent and angu- and Planners lar and dominating and intimidating. What to Open daily do — stand up to it, or bow in humility, or coax 602-262-4636 a metaphor from it? Next is the sun, fierce and www.phoenixpubliclibrary.org relentless. Work with it, or repel it, or try to hide MUST A BUILDING BE BEAUTIFUL to from it? And then there’s culture, which cannot be qualify as great architecture? Not if it’s a an afterthought in any thoughtful architect’s mind. seething cauldron of surprises, provoca- How to create a sense of home, of belonging, in a tions and intellectual challenges. Will Bruder is an architect whose place where many people have come from some- mission is to create a critical mass of where else, and where the state population nearly architectural encounters for the people doubles every 20 years? who use his buildings. He’s been known Landscape, climate, culture: These are the best lenses for viewing to install cabinet doorknobs an inch and understanding (and, yes, judging) Arizona’s architecture history. differently on right- and left-opening sides, “to let you experience the tension WIt’s not nearly as useful to simply tick off historical styles — Territorial, of asymmetry.” In Phoenix’s flagship Mission Revival, Midcentury Modern — as it is to see how architects library, one such encounter — on a have responded to the unique circumstances of Arizona. grand scale — is the celebration of the Or haven’t responded. Too much of Arizona’s built environment elevator. It’s centered in the lobby and looks and acts as if it was intended for somewhere else: mirror-glass surrounded by a moat, and it slithers up high-rises rebounding blinding sunlight into the street; shopping cen- a glass hoistway with all its mechani- ters ringed by vast, heat-storing asphalt moats. Charles Bowden, the cal entrails gloriously exposed, as if the cables and conduits were part of a post- Southwest’s most eloquent pessimist, wrote in 1986: “Here the land industrial archaeological dig. Another always makes promises of aching beauty and the people always fail touch: Where interior concrete columns the land.” But Frank Lloyd Wright, right here in the pages of Arizona abut ceiling beams, Bruder has sepa- Highways in 1940, laid out a prescription: Architects should learn from rated the joints at their surface level, so “the abstract design inherent in all desert fabric,” using dotted-line out- it looks as though there’s some invisible lines and wall surfaces “that eagerly take the light and play with it and magnetic force holding this vast build- MISSION SAN XAVIER serene and perfect balance of its large-scale forms ing together. cools the crazed energy of its decorative detail: break it up and render it harmless or drink it in until sunlight blends The library has a decidedly industrial DEL BAC Birds, cats, grapes, flowers, saints, angels, geo- the building into place with the creation around it.” mood, but it’s endlessly bursting with Tohono O’odham Nation (near Tucson) metric carvings and trompe l’oeil designs sizzle Wright’s unique aesthetic wasn’t, and isn’t, the only appropriate way intriguing surprises and spaces that 1797 | Ignacio Gaona relentlessly about the facade and throughout the to build here: Arizona’s landscape, climate and layered cultures are trigger emotional responses. Which is Open daily sanctuary. too complex for any one idea to address. And it’s that complexity that what Bruder was pursuing: This library, 520-294-2624 | www.sanxaviermission.org While its architecture stands as a starkly inspires this architectural tour of Arizona. he’s said, is “a realization of my core foreign presence in the Sonoran Desert, its con- philosophy: that real architecture exists THIS IS THE SPANISH HIGH BAROQUE in full cry: the struction is still instructing us in how to make Two of these — the Spanish mission of San Xavier del Bac and when both pragmatism and poetry are most elaborate and sophisticated mission church enduring buildings in this land. During one of the Wright’s Taliesin West — would alight on anyone’s Top 10 list of must- served with equal passion.” in what now is the United States. The Francis- mission’s many restoration cycles, in 1989, Tucson see, bucket-list buildings in Arizona. Most of the rest are not obvious Most big cities have a density, whole can missionaries at this far tendril of New Spain architect Bob Vint discovered that the modern choices and might be unfamiliar to most people. Some are dramatically districts of architecture teeming with intended it to dazzle the indigenous people not Portland cement lathered onto the outside walls beautiful, others not easily understood. All are worthy of contempla- ideas, that generates urban energy. In only with the majesty of this new God but also in an earlier renovation was failing to let the fired young, open, sprawling Phoenix, the with the power of the Spanish crown. It rides the adobe bricks underneath “breathe,” and they were tion. And all are accessible to the public in some form — private homes Central Library alone activated the desert with a conqueror’s resplendence. eroding from the inside out. Vint discovered a tra- and office buildings were excluded. Most important, they all say city’s urbanity when it rose almost The church follows the familiar European cru- ditional Mexican folk remedy: lime and sand plas- something essential about Arizona, and about how we humans might 25 years ago. It feels like it’s still doing ciform, or cross-shaped, floor plan with a great ter, bound with a soup made by boiling prickly respectfully carve out our place in this lovely, deceptively fragile land. the same today. dome at the crossing and two 80-foot bell towers pear pads. It was a reminder that the land itself on the flanks. Its most exquisite quality is how the can teach us how to build on it.

38 JULY 2019 www.arizonahighways.com 39 LOOKOUT STUDIO

Grand Canyon National Park 1914 | Mary Colter Open daily 928-638-7888 | www.nps.gov/grca

SOME OF THE GRAND CANYON’S early buildings were made to look like pre- historic pueblo construction. This one, though, looks like the Canyon itself. Lookout Studio perches spectacu- larly on the very lip of the South Rim, offering visitors a terrace and balcony for views into the Canyon. Its walls are composed of large, rubble-like Kaibab limestone boulders, same as the upper Canyon walls, and the window frames’ blue paint perfectly matches the deep blue of the sky at this 7,000-foot elevation. It can hardly be said to have any “style” at all: It’s the least possible architecture, flow- ing into and out of its site with such graceful deference that we hardly know it’s there — and yet, its appar- ent simplicity is deceptive. Walk the Rim Trail a few hundred yards to the east, and you might notice that the tower’s ragged parapet precisely echoes the form of a great escarp- ment on the Canyon wall a mile away. When the setting is the Grand Can- yon, care is required to perfect such humility. The studio’s generally acknowl- edged designer was Mary Colter, who worked for Fred Harvey and the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway — although one researcher has recently disputed Colter’s lead- ing role in designs throughout the West. Regardless, this little building reflects the textures and forms of its site so skillfully that it might serve as a retort to Teddy Roosevelt’s famous 1903 speech at the Canyon: “I hope you will not have a building of any kind. ... Man cannot improve on it, not a bit.”

40 JULY 2019 www.arizonahighways.com 41 TALIESIN WEST TALIESIN WEST — the compound that formed Frank Lloyd was conscious of reaching back into time to achieve timeless- the place a defensive posture, like the body armor of a horned Wright’s winter home, office, school and architectural labora- ness when he conceived it. He installed boulders with prehis- lizard, but on a winter evening when pink streaks rake the sky tory — is one of Wright’s finest works and the instructional toric Hohokam petroglyphs at strategic intersections in the overhead, the armor elides into the heavens. The place is end- Scottsdale essay that shows us how to build in the desert. The noted compound, then wrote in his autobiography that it “belonged to lessly quirky — the rain gutters in the Wrights’ living room 1938-1959 | Frank Lloyd Wright architect Pietro Belluschi said Taliesin West, more than any the Arizona desert as though it had stood there during creation.” run inside, under the ceiling — but one never feels manipu- Tours by admission daily, except Easter, Thanksgiving of Wright’s other work, “shows how to grasp the mood of the A grandiose claim, yes, but not an empty boast. lated by architectural theatrics. The structure is as honest as and Christmas (reservations recommended) land and transform it into a place of harmony and beauty.” The buildings insinuate themselves into the land in many the landscape itself. 480-860-2700 | www.franklloydwright.org Elizabeth Gordon, who edited Wright’s book The House Beauti- ways. Most obvious is the texture and slope of the stone-and- With Taliesin West, Wright was demonstrating that a build- ful and was a friend of the Wrights, sensed “a feeling of some- concrete walls, an abstraction of the mountainous horizon. The ing shouldn’t be a refuge from nature; it should be a means to thing almost prehistoric” when she visited. Wright certainly strange, fin-like trusses elbowed over the drafting studio give enhance human reaction with nature.

42 JULY 2019 www.arizonahighways.com 43 NELSON FINE THE STORYLINE FOR THIS BUILDING, its nakedness — stark, undecorated which grew out of the architect’s stream- masses jostling and colliding in the bare ARTS CENTER of-consciousness thinking, is strange sun; no overhanging eaves, screens or enough that not many visitors will guess shade structures — stands in vivid con- Arizona State University, Tempe it on their own: Imagine an archaeologi- trast to the way most thoughtful archi- 1989 | Antoine Predock cal cross-section with the remnants of tects now are responding to the desert. Open Tuesdays through Saturdays 14th century Hohokam irrigation canals It wasn’t a dumb oversight: Antoine 480-965-2787 underground and a 20th century ruin, Predock meant it to be uncomfortable www.asuartmuseum.asu.edu the drive-in movie theater, poking into outside at times. Look, he said, desert the sky. Stir in the Spanish concept of animals don’t lounge around in the mid- naked walls composing a counterpoint day sun; they burrow underground and of sol y sombra, or “sun and shadow,” and resurface at dusk. This building sug- choreograph the entry sequence as an gests that we do likewise. intellectual mystery. (When you finally The best architecture doesn’t simply find the door and entrance lobby, they provide a place for us to live — or work, will be underground.) shop, worship or play. It shows us how This is architecture of challenge and to live. This is the lasting lesson of the adventure, not rational planning. And buildings on this tour.

ENVIRONMENT + SEVERAL CONTEMPORARY ARIZONA into storage cisterns. architects have drawn inspiration from A canyon creates an interior world NATURAL canyon landscapes, but the most dra- that goes quietly about its business RESOURCES 2 matic is this university science building. without reference to the outside world, Its five-story interior court is a thrilling and that is what this building does, too. evocation of a slot canyon on the Colo- It creates its own climate and landscape University of Arizona, Tucson rado Plateau, deploying vertical angle within the interior court, and most 2015 | Richärd and Bauer bars along the mezzanine walkways of the views from the classroom and Open weekdays to weave and undulate much like the offices are directed inward, toward it. 520-626-4345 water-sculpted sandstone canyon walls. It makes sense: When you’re studying www.environment.arizona.edu Vines dangle here and there from the environmental science, why look out at ramparts, and the sand and stone xeri- an urban world of city streets and park- scape at the bottom guides rainwater ing garages?

44 JULY 2019 www.arizonahighways.com 45 WUKOKI PUEBLO

Wupatki National Monument Circa 1182 | Sinaguan people Open daily, except Christmas 928-679-2365 | www.nps.gov/wupa

THE SPIRITUAL EMBRYO for organic Arizona architecture lies reclusively off a spur road in Wupatki National Monument, TEMPE MUNICIPAL 40 miles northeast of Flagstaff: a modest six-room, pueblo-style building constructed by people we now call the Sinagua. This BUILDING is architecture in deep conversation with the land: profoundly respectful, yet defiant. Isolated and lonely, it expresses the 1970 | Michael and Kemper Goodwin courage an ancient people would have needed to pry a living Open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekdays from this high desert. 480-350-4311 | www.tempe.gov The builders used a natural sandstone outcropping as a foundation, providing a 360-degree view of the surroundings IT’S EASY TO DISMISS the Tempe Munici- and any approaching trouble. The formation points, like a pal Building as a quirk of modernism ship’s prow, straight into the San Francisco Peaks, which may or an architect’s conceit, but either have been a sacred landmark. The bricks were chiseled out of would be unfair — and outright wrong. the same ruddy sandstone nearby, so the structure morphs Architect Michael Goodwin conceived almost invisibly from geology into architecture as it rises into a the inverted pyramid as a way of mak- three-story tower. Arizona has scores of prehistoric ruins that ing a building shade itself, even before are larger and more dramatic, but no other one demonstrates the environmental movement began to so well how civilization might insinuate itself organically into dawn in most architectural offices. a starkly dramatic land. The pyramid doesn’t simply burst The question we’ll likely never answer: Did Wukoki’s build- out of flat ground. A landscaped plaza, ers shape the form for aesthetic values, or was it simply a logi- scooped out below grade, surrounds its cal response to the site and the occupants’ needs? The most base like a sunken garden. City offices satisfying answer would be: Both. Which is the template for line the plaza’s perimeter. The main what a good architect would do today. building’s glass walls, angled outward at 45 degrees, allow only 18 percent of the sun’s heat to pass through on the hottest summer day. A suite of good ideas weave together in this architec- tural scheme: The building not only shades itself but also creates a quiet, cool public park below. With 20,000 square feet of offices underground, the complex neither sprawls nor towers over the city. Far from a domineering presence, it feels approachable and humanely scaled, even friendly. And its unique shape is a symbol for Tempe, a city hall and sculptural presence in one tidy unit. “I remember growing up in town and having people go, ‘Oh, that weird build- ing,’ ” Goodwin’s daughter Lisa told the East Valley Tribune in 2011. Yes, it did, and still does, cut an unnatural profile, one not likely to be imitated often. But it’s a pivotal building for Arizona — the one that literally began reshaping our thinking about sun, shade and the pos- sibilities for environmental architecture.

46 JULY 2019 www.arizonahighways.com 47 CHASE BANK

Phoenix 1968 | Frank Henry, Weaver and Drover Open Mondays through Saturdays (public access to lobby only) 602-261-2430

NO SENSIBLE BANK TODAY would spend the money to create a dazzling showcase branch, as Valley National Bank of Arizona did a half-century ago at 44th Street and Camelback Road. Maybe they should: Four months after this branch opened, The Arizona Republic reported that deposits had risen 30 percent over those at the outpost this building replaced. The building now is a Chase Bank branch, but it’s essentially unchanged. This is a shotgun wedding of Wrightian geometric expres- sionism and International Style modernism — an unlikely union, but one that works because a slightly goofy sense of fun chips away at sober rationality (and vice versa), creating a HELEN S. SCHAEFER always feature lavish expanses of shaded and usable outdoor poised and complex balance of personality. It exudes an emo- space. These serve both as gathering places and as transitions tional warmth that few mainstream modernist buildings in the BUILDING to soften the shock of emerging from an air-conditioned build- 20th century ever managed. And its superbly executed details ing into furious desert sun. reward careful investigation. The concrete mushrooms that University of Arizona Poetry Center, Tucson Inside this poetry library, soft and welcoming morning make shade outside in the park-like lawn are repeated as col- 2007 | Les Wallach, Line and Space light floods the two-story space, but it’s indirect, so as not to umns in the lobby, where they punch through the ceiling, pro- Open Mondays through Saturdays threaten the 50,000 books in the stacks. The eastern glass wall viding deceptively invisible roof support while making way for 520-626-3765 | www.poetry.arizona.edu leans outward, each window bay leaning a couple of degrees rings of clerestory windows and lavish daylighting. And check more than its neighbor, so the wall itself becomes a poetic the sly money metaphor: The mushrooms’ disc edges replicate AS AN ARIZONA NATIVE, Tucson architect Les Wallach, who presence. One outdoor plaza serves as a gathering space, while the textured edges of dimes and quarters. Remember those? founded the firm Line and Space, has always held a realistic another is a narrow bamboo garden tuned for contemplative attitude toward the desert sun: Don’t try to ignore it, and for reading. The idea is a “progression toward solitude,” a hierar- sure don’t fight it — find ways to live with it. His buildings, chy of emotional spaces — as well as graduated levels of refuge exemplified by the Poetry Center at the University of Arizona, from the desert light and heat.

48 JULY 2019 www.arizonahighways.com 49 NOT QUITE WRIGHT In the late 1950s, Arizona was considering a new state Capitol. architect, recalled many years afterward. “With a sure hand Although an architect had and powerful pencil strokes, he gave exciting form to his thoughts. In about two hours, he had sketched plans and eleva- tions for the Capitol.” already been selected, Frank It’s worth noting that Wright was 89 years old. He would die two years later — still designing, and teaching, to the end. Lloyd Wright submitted a plan of But he had always been phenomenally fast and self-assured. His most celebrated work, the Pennsylvania house he called his own. The design, a glittery Fallingwater, was likewise designed in a morning. Wright’s Capitol was a glittery cavalcade of geometry. Its hexagonal heart included chambers for the House of Repre- cavalcade of geometry, was sentatives and the Senate, with a great public hall centered between them. Wings flying off either side contained offices flaky and wastefully impractical. wrapped around courtyards with pools and fountains. Smaller hexagons budded from an aft wing to house the state Supreme Court and the governor’s office. The complex was crowned But it was inspiring, too. with an angular, lattice-like copper and concrete dome fea- turing yet more interlocking hexagons. Supporting it were BY LAWRENCE W. CHEEK towering colonnades with triangular bracing structures. A spective at the Phoenix Art Museum in 1990, The Arizona Arizona State Capitol rendering by Frank Lloyd Wright, 1957. wedge-like spire needled the heavens. A prescient environ- Republic’s Richard Nilsen memorably labeled it “a Capitol for © 2019 Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation, Scottsdale, AZ. All rights reserved. The Frank Lloyd Wright Foundation mental feature: The dome actually was a shade structure that the planet Mongo.” Archives (The Museum of Modern Art | Avery Architectural NE SUNDAY MORNING IN 1957, Frank Lloyd would have provided a cool environment for the Legislature, Indeed, in his final decade, Wright repeatedly cranked out & Fine Arts Library, Columbia University, New York) Wright joined his associates and students for public hall and gardens. Arizona architects who began design- exhibitionist contortions that were not logical evolutions of breakfast at Taliesin West. He was feeling “a bit ing structures like this — two decades later — were hailed as the more quiet, graceful and organic design aesthetic that had sad and a bit angry,” as one of the participants progressive thinkers. marked his earlier work. They were gaudy, overly decorated succeeds in being preposterously silly and ineffably noble at later described it, from his reading of the morn- Wright’s two-hour Capitol, which likely would have cost and frequently bizarre, looking more like illustrations for a the same time. And it works very well as a concert hall: Despite ing’s newspaper. The paper had published a ren- several times the tab for the rather plainer creation that was science fiction graphic novel than earthly modernism. One of its 3,017-seat capacity, its acoustics are miraculously intimate. dering of the proposed new state Capitol building for Arizona, already slated to be built, was not welcomed in official circles. these was built in Arizona: Grady Gammage Memorial Audi- The affection, even love, accorded the auditorium today pos- Oand Wright didn’t think much of it. No surprise there: Favor- Wright and his fellowship took it seriously, printing 20,000 torium (now known as ASU Gammage), Arizona State Univer- sibly tells us something about what would have happened had able Wright critiques of other architects’ work were of blue- promotional flyers to distribute around the state, and even sity’s concert hall. Wright been the architect of Arizona’s state Capitol. His most moon rarity. After expounding on civilization’s bleak future in pushed for a public referendum. The American Institute of This design began as a Baghdad opera house, part of a monu- extreme Sunday morning excesses probably would have been the onslaught of such expedient architecture, Wright launched Architects pushed back, calling it unethical for one architect to mental complex that Iraq’s King Faisal II commissioned from filtered out. (The Baghdad opera house’s monstrous crown a discussion: “Well, boys, what would you do if you were compete against another firm that already had the job. In the Wright in 1957. The Baghdad project evaporated with the king’s and spire, fortunately, never made it to ASU.) What remained called upon to design the Arizona Capitol?” The “boys” — his end, the Legislature let it die. In 2004, however, a developer execution the following year, but Wright began recycling the would still have been flaky and wastefully impractical, yet students and acolytes — knew what was coming. resurrected the design for the 125-foot spire and had it fabri- plan to fulfill then-ASU President Grady Gammage’s dream of inspiring. Wright’s conception appeared to dedicate at least as After some 45 minutes of talk about the Capitol site, space cated and planted as a landmark for a Scottsdale shopping and a landmark campus auditorium. Wright’s associate William much space to the public as to legislators and bureaucrats — a requirements, materials and the allure of water features, office complex at Frank Lloyd Wright Boulevard and Scotts- Wesley Peters completed the plans after Wright’s death, and metaphor for his thinking about the proper role of government Wright rose and announced that they would proceed to the dale Road. the auditorium was dedicated in 1964. in society. It bloomed with fantasy, magic and overreaching drafting room and design an alternative Capitol. The building resembles an enormous wedding cake fes- aspiration. For the symbolic heart of a state where nature itself “We followed him into the drafting room [and] surrounded THE WRIGHT CAPITOL WAS ALWAYS controversial tooned with baubles, bangles and a grand entrance ramp exhibits these very qualities, and where civilization has always his desk,” his apprentice Kamal Amin, later a Scottsdale-based on aesthetic grounds. On the occasion of a Wright retro- decorated with looping arches and light globes. Somehow, it had to overreach to establish its foothold … well, why not?

50 JULY 2019 www.arizonahighways.com 51 scenic DRIVE

WINSLOW TO SECOND MESA Steeped in Hopi and Navajo history, this scenic drive features a dazzling array of otherworldly buttes in a land where the only creatures in the road are cows. BY ANNETTE McGIVNEY

climbed down.” Second Mesa. It was this behemoth Continuing landmark that beckoned the Hopis from northeast on Homolovi hundreds of years ago. IR 60, orange When you reach the junction with and red sand- State Route 264, you’ll be in the heart of stone walls the Hopi Tribe’s land. To the left, just with crumbling, off the highway, are the pre-Columbian jagged tops look Second Mesa villages of Shungopavi, like the ruins Mishongnovi and Sipaulovi. Five miles of a burned farther northwest is the Hopi Cultural skyscraper. And Center, a tribe-run complex that includes at the base of a museum, a campground, a hotel, a café many buttes are and a gift shop. It’s an excellent place to small houses stretch your legs, grab some lunch and and traditional visit with fellow travelers. Just don’t tell hogans where them about the other “Monument Valley.” families have to send on the 300-mile forced march operated ranches for generations. Around to New Mexico, the top of Castle Butte Mile 31.5, an imposing black cinder hill SCENIC provided a safe haven from the soldiers. on the right marks the small town of DRIVES of Arizona’s ADDITIONAL READING: Best Back “Some Navajos climbed up there and Dilkon. From here, it’s another 13 miles 40 Roads For more adventure, pick up a copy of our book Arizona were able to stay for a long time because through a rolling, ancient volcanic land- Highways Scenic Drives, which there are water catchments,” Barton says. scape to the junction with SR 87. Hang features 40 of the state’s most beautiful back roads. To order, “They threw rocks at Carson’s men. And a right at the stop sign and drive north visit www.shoparizonahighways Edited by Robert Stieve after the soldiers finally left, the people on SR 87 toward the hulking island of and Kelly Vaughn Kramer .com/books.

onument Valley is one of the at various points from about A.D. 620 to pass over the next 10 miles. First up, on Southwest’s iconic landscapes. 1400. Some of the Homolovi residents the left, is Chimney Butte — which, true M But sometimes, a drive through migrated north to the mesas where mem- to its name, looks like a giant smokestack. it can leave you longing for more solitude bers of the Hopi Tribe live today. A few miles farther down IR 60, also on and fewer tourists standing in the road Continue your own journey north on the left, is Castle Butte, with three pil- TOUR GUIDE Note: Mileages are approximate. with selfie sticks. Fortunately, there’s SR 87 through a green and gray sea of lars that shoot up 100 to 200 feet from another “Monument Valley” on the sagebrush that gradually melts into the a grass-covered hill. They’re like stone LENGTH: 66 miles one way (from Interstate 40) DIRECTIONS: From Winslow, go east on Interstate 40 for Navajo Nation, and this one is well off pastel-hued cliffs and clay hills of the towers on a medieval fortress. 3 miles to State Route 87 (Exit 257). Turn left (north) the beaten tourist path. Take the scenic Painted Desert. Towering, solitary buttes According to Margie Barton, manager onto SR 87 and continue 20 miles to Indian Road 60. route from Winslow to Second Mesa, and rise against the horizon like lighthouses of the Navajo Nation’s Dilkon Chapter, Turn right onto IR 60 and continue 24.5 miles to where the road rejoins SR 87 farther north. Turn right onto you’ll be treated to a dazzling array of on a distant shore. The oceanic space Castle Butte was a lifesaving hideout in SR 87 and continue 21.5 miles to State Route 264 on otherworldly buttes in a land where the beneath an infinite blue sky is mesmer- 1864, when the Navajos were rounded Second Mesa. only creatures in the road are cows. izing, but pay attention, because you up for the Long Walk. As U.S. Army VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None This 66-mile tour also is steeped in don’t want to miss the turnoff to Indian soldiers, led by Kit Carson, scoured the INFORMATION: Homolovi State Park, 928-289-4106 or www.azstateparks.com/homolovi; Navajo Tourism Hopi and Navajo history. The trip back in Road 60. Navajo homeland for tribal members Department, 928-810-8501 or www.discovernavajo.com; time starts early in the drive, at Homo- At Mile 20, you’ll come upon Dilkon Hopi Cultural Center, 928-734-2401 or www.hopicultural center.com lovi State Park on State Route 87. The park Junction — also the junction with IR 60, ABOVE: Second Mesa is home to members of the Hopi Tribe. Jerry Jacka Travelers in Arizona can visit www.az511.gov or dial protects the ruins of four large pueblos even though there’s no sign. Turn right OPPOSITE PAGE: Indian Road 60 reaches toward 511 to get infor­ma­tion on road closures, construc­tion, that were occupied by Hopi ancestors and home in on those buttes, which you’ll French Butte on the Navajo Nation. Tom Bean delays, weather and more.

52 JULY 2019 MAP BY KEVIN KIBSEY www.arizonahighways.com 53 HIKE of the month

WILDERNESS OF ROCK TRAIL Like the hoodoos in the Chiricahuas, the weathered rocks on this strenuous hike are the payoff, but there’s a lot to see along the way. BY ROBERT STIEVE / PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOEL HAZELTON

t shouldn’t be easy to get to a place the point where this trail begins. None of From there, the trail climbs through a into the Pusch Ridge Wilderness, which called the “Wilderness of Rock” — or that is a hardship, however. The Catalina forest of ponderosa pines, Douglas firs was established in 1978 and now protects I anywhere in the backcountry. It should Highway is a National Scenic Byway. And and Gambel oaks. A few minutes later, it 56,974 acres. Its preservation history, take some effort, like learning to speak the Aspen Trail is a jewel in just about levels off and cuts through a thick grove however, dates to 1927, when the Santa German or skinning at Arapahoe Basin. any crown. The only downside, if there is of young aspens. They’re among the many Catalina Research Natural Area was In 1951, Arizona Highways Editor Raymond one, is the extra time it adds to the over- signs of life in the wake of the Aspen established — it was the first place in the Carlson described the remote areas like all adventure. The upside is that it thins Fire, which clobbered the mountaintop in U.S. to be designated as such. this: “The surfaced roads go on and on the crowd and keeps the wilderness from 2003. You’ll see signs of the fire, too, but, From the boundary, the trail starts with a steep descent on a rocky slope that through the weathered hoodoos, you’ll and then they stop. Gravel roads take up looking like Fossil Creek. for the most part, this route sidesteps climbing again through a series of long would be hard to follow without so many have to pay close attention to the cairns, where the surfaced roads end and they, The hike begins at the Marshall Gulch the worst reminders. The track here is switchbacks to an elevation of 8,101 feet, well-placed cairns. They’re there, in part, especially where the trail dips into some too, go on and on. Finally, there are only Picnic Area, which serves as the trailhead well worn and easy to follow. That won’t which is the high point of the two trails. because this route overlaps Passage 12 of the washes. Also, the trail gets more wagon tracks or aimless trails. When you for the Marshall Gulch Trail and the always be the case. The rest of the route is mostly downhill, (Oracle Ridge) of the Arizona Trail. technical as it shifts uphill along a steep, can’t go any further, just look around: Aspen Trail. Both routes lead to the Wil- About 10 minutes in, the trail crosses but there’s a lot of up and down along There’s a lot of foot traffic. rocky bank and makes a final push to You are in the backcountry.” derness of Rock Trail. Take your pick. It’s the way. And by the time you get back to Continuing on, the rocks give way to its denouement at the Mount Lemmon He might have been depicting the Wil- like choosing fries or onion rings. There’s BELOW: Vegetation grows atop a weathered the picnic area, you’ll have climbed more pine needles, the forest thickens, and Trail. If you make it that far, smile, catch derness of Rock. To get there, you have to decadence either way. boulder along the Wilderness of Rock Trail. than 2,000 feet — add another 500 if you the trail crosses a creek before coming to your breath and take a bow. Like Deutsch OPPOSITE PAGE: The hoodoos of the Pusch drive until you run out of road, and then For the Aspen Trail, look for a sign Ridge Wilderness are bathed in golden light at parked at the Forest Service gate. an intersection with the Lemmon Rock lernen, you’ll have earned it. you have to hike an overture just to get to marked “93” to the left of the restroom. sunset. As you start down, you’ll wind around Trail. Just beyond the crossroad is an old- a deep side canyon and pass through a growth ponderosa that stands out like tunnel of young ponderosas. Then, after Deacon Jones at an Easter egg hunt. Then, ADDITIONAL READING: an hour of overall hiking, you’ll come to about 15 minutes later, the trail arrives at For more hikes, pick up a copy an intersection with three trails: Mar- a ridge that overlooks the Wilderness of of Arizona Highways Hiking Guide, which features 52 of the shall Gulch (#3), Mint Spring (#20) and Rock. It’s gorgeous. state’s best trails — one for each Wilderness of Rock (#44). Everything up If you’re looking for a shorter trek, weekend of the year, sorted by seasons. To order a copy, visit to this point has been a warmup. This is this is a good place to turn around. If www.shoparizonahighways where the show begins. And it begins you want to go the distance, and hike .com/books.

TRAIL GUIDE LENGTH: 13 miles round-trip (via the Aspen Trail) DIFFICULTY: Strenuous ELEVATION: 7,110 to 8,101 feet TRAILHEAD GPS: N 32˚25.689', W 110˚45.335' DIRECTIONS: From the fee station (permanently closed) on the Catalina Highway, go northeast for 20.6 miles to Forest Road 10. Veer left onto FR 10 and continue 0.5 miles to the Marshall Gulch Trailhead. (Note: The For- est Service closes FR 10 in the winter. If the gate is closed, park at the gate and walk to the trailhead.) SPECIAL CONSIDERATION: A $5 day pass is required. VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None DOGS ALLOWED: Yes HORSES ALLOWED: Not suitable for horses. USGS MAP: Mount Lemmon INFORMATION: Santa Catalina Ranger District, 520-749-8700 or www.fs.usda.gov/coronado LEAVE-NO-TRACE PRINCIPLES: • Plan ahead and be out all of your trash. prepared. • Leave what you find. • Travel and camp on • Respect wildlife. durable surfaces. • Minimize campfire impact. • Dispose of waste • Be considerate of properly and pack others.

54 JULY 2019 MAP BY KEVIN KIBSEY www.arizonahighways.com 55 WHERE IS THIS? GO WEST AND WALK THE SKY. FEEL THE POWER OF NATURE WITH BREATHTAKING VIEWS!

Pulling Your Chain The words on this sign offer a clue about where in Arizona you’ll find it. To get more specific, we’ll tell you it’s in a city that’s grown rapidly in the past half-century — from fewer than 200 residents in 1970 to more than 30,000 today. And its name, when translated, is the same as that of a better-known U.S. city.

May 2019 Answer & Winner Navajo Code Talker Win a collection of our most popular books! To enter, correctly identify the location pictured above and email your answer to editor@ statue, Window arizonahighways.com — type “Where Is This?” in the subject line. Entries can also be sent Rock. Congratula- to 2039 W. Lewis Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85009 (write “Where Is This?” on the envelope). tions to our winner, Please include your name, address and phone number. One winner will be chosen in a Larry Palmersheim random drawing of qualified entries. Entries must be postmarked by July 15, 2019. Only the of Apple Valley, Min- winner will be notified. The correct answer will be posted in our September issue and nesota. online at www.arizonahighways.com beginning August 15. 888-868-WEST (9378) find us on

56 JULY 2019 PHOTOGRAPHS: TOP TOM STORY ABOVE, LEFT SEAN AHASTEEN