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Место, Где Не Все Плохо the Place Where Not Everything Is

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Место, Где Не Все Плохо the Place Where Not Everything Is 48 60 параллель / 60 Parallel №4(31) 2008 Говорят, что эффективность теленовостей строится на контрасте: чтобы жители страны чувствовали себя комфортно у себя дома, нужно им показывать места, где жить заведомо некомфортно. В последние десять- пятнадцать лет в России таким местом, «где всегда все плохо» был Владивосток. Именно с ним были связаны леденящие кровь сюжеты центральных каналов: холодные батареи, пикеты замерзших граждан, скандалы с мэрами и хроника криминальных разборок. Но сегодня этот город становится города. Основанный в 1860 году вскоре объектом пристального внимания уже после поражения России в Крымской как «восточная столица» России. войне, Владивосток стал «нашим ази- Развенчание мрачного мифа следует атским ответом» Европе, которая тогда начать с географии: с ней Владивостоку активно действовала в Юго-Восточной очень повезло. Почти не замерзающая Азии. Город довольно быстро стал глубоководная бухта, мягкий японо- основной военно-морской базой в реги- морский климат и близость к границам оне. Удачное, на стыке границ России, стран Тихоокеанского бассейна сделали Китая и Кореи, расположение позволи- Лев Коломыц, его весьма удобным местом для между- ло городу развиваться в качестве тор- журналист, народного порта. Живописные берего- гового центра и транспортного узла: до Владивосток – Москва, вые ландшафты открывали богатые воз- 1915 года каждое десятилетие его насе- [email protected] можности для архитектурного решения ление увеличивалось вдвое. В те време- Место, где не все плохо Тема номера / Issue Subject The Place where not Everything is Bad Lev Kolomytz, The say that success of news programmes is achieved through contrast: to feel journalist, Vladivostok-Moscow themselves comfortable at the places they live, people should be shown places [email protected] where life is certainly uncomfortable. For the last ten-fifteen years Vladivostok has been a place where everything is always bad. From the programmes on the central channels we knew about cold radiators, meetings of frozen citizens, scandals concerning the mayor, and chronicle of criminal events. But today this city attracts attention as our Asian answer to Europe that was ‘the eastern capital of Russia’. very active in South-Eastern Europe at Let us start to cast down the myth that time. The city quite soon became with the fact that Vladivostok has been the main sea military base in the region. lucky to have such geographical position. A favourable location on the turn of Almost never freezing deep-see bay, Russia, China and Korea helped the city mild Japanese sea climate, vicinity to to develop as a trade and transport centre: the countries of the Pacific Ocean Basin its population doubled every decade till made it an extremely appropriate place 1915. At that time the city laid claims to for an international port. Picturesque become the centre of future Asia-Pacific coastal landscapes gave a wide freedom Region like today’s Shanghai. for architectural solution of the city. Based in 1860 soon after Russia’s defeat Geopolitics let down: in competition in the Crimean war Vladivostok became between ways of development as an 60 параллель / 60 Parallel №4(31) 2008 49 Море и порты являются основным источником ресурсов для Владивостока и оправдывают его существование. Фото Константина Кравченко. The sea and the ports are principal resources for Vladivostok. They justify its existence. Photo by Konstantin Kravchenko. open port and a military base, the latter houses were built on the knolls. All the to some data, about 400 000 automobiles fought the victory. The closed character heights were built by tzar forts. are imported annually through the ports of the city hampered the growth as well The last plan was accepted in 1975. of Primor’e which can be compared with as determined its look. As early as the Ugly glass-reinforced concrete buildings capacity of an average automobile plant. beginning of the XX century after the are odd for the city centre that turned The Pacific Ocean fleet is mainly sold defeat in the Russian-Japanese war a into architect’s nightmare. To crown it for nails, fish extractive fleet reduced frightened Russian government invested all military ships are still in the bay and by several times. Defense and fish- about 10 billions golden rubles to fortify on the city quay. As Brodsky once wrote: processing plants, shipyards stand idle the city. Russian Nice could have been ‘the best view to the city is from the without orders: those who stayed prefer built with this money. Instead of this 12 bomber.’ However, it can be said not only to repair their ships in Korea, and to sell strong forts and a lot of batteries skillfully about Vladivostok. fish right in the sea to the Chinese since it hidden in the knolls were erected. The is not profitable to enter their own ports. fortified region became the strongest in Great Vladivostok Scientific potential of the Far East Branch the world for that time, and the Soviet With coming perestroika and of the Russian Academy of Sciences (FEB regime turned it into an enormous secret capitalism citizens decided that new RAS) that has been hoped for during military base in the Pacific Ocean. There possibilities coupled with the heritage decades remains the same: no hi-tech was a legend that Russky Island closed of military-industrial complex – centres, no techno park, the promising for visits till recent times could withstand infrastructure, personnel, and industrial character of which has been discussed by a fifteen-minute assault of the navy forces capacities – would allow Vladivostok to the local authorities for many years, have of the whole world. take an adequate place in the Asia-Pacific not been created yet. Military base is not the best place for Region. Nevertheless, the years of free port comfortable life. All the proper building But no miracle happened. The principal have not passed in vain for the citizens: places (which are few on the peninsula) private business here is import of second- unrealized ambitions of ‘Russian San were occupied by defense plants. The hand Japanese automobiles: according Francisco’ and ‘window to Asia’ needed 50 60 параллель / 60 Parallel №4(31) 2008 на динамично растущий город реально него времени закрытый для посещения, Очень Большой Владивосток претендовал на то, чтобы стать центром мог в течение 15 минут выдержать атаку С началом перестройки и капитализма будущего АТР, каким сегодня является ВМФ всего мира. горожанам показалось, что новые воз- Шанхай. можности вкупе с наследием ВПК – ин- Подвела геополитика: в состязании Военная база – не лучшее место для фраструктурой, кадрами, промышленны- между путями развития в качестве от- комфортной жизни. Все удобные для ми мощностями – позволят Владивостоку крытого порта и закрытой военной базы строительства места (которых на полу- быстро занять достойное место в АТР. победил последний. Закрытость города острове не так много) были заняты обо- Но чуда не произошло. Основной не только затормозила процессы роста, ронными заводами, а жилье строилось частный бизнес здесь – это ввоз поде- но и определила его внешний облик и за- на сопках. Все господствующие высоты ржанных японских автомобилей: по стройку. Еще в начале двадцатого века застроены царскими фортами. некоторым данным, в год через порты после поражения в русско-японской во- Последний генеральный план в Приморья ввозится около 400 тысяч ма- йне напуганное правительство выдели- городе был принят еще в 1975 году. шин, что сравнимо с мощностью средне- ло на укрепление города около 10 млрд. Уродливые стеклобетонные архитек- го автозавода. Тихоокеанский флот по золотых рублей. На эти деньги вполне турные монстры совершенно не вписы- большей части распродан «на гвозди», можно было построить здесь русскую ваются в среду исторического центра рыбодобывающий флот сократился в Ниццу. Вместо этого в окрестностях города, который в итоге превратился в разы. Оборонные, судоремонтные и ры- Владивостока были возведены 12 мощ- настоящий «ночной кошмар архитек- боперерабатывающие заводы стоят без ных фортов и масса батарей, мастерски тора». В довершение ко всему в бухте заказов: те, кто остался, предпочитают упрятанных в сопках. Укрепленный и городской набережной до сих пор ремонтироваться в Корее, а рыбу прямо район стал сильнейшим в мире для сво- стоят военные корабли. Как писал в в море продавать китайцам, посколь- его времени, а советская власть превра- свое время Бродский, «…лучший вид ку заходить в свои же порты рыбакам тила его в огромную секретную военную на этот город – если сесть в бомбар- стало невыгодно. Научный потенциал базу Тихоокеанского флота. Бытовала дировщик». Впрочем, только ли про институтов ДВО РАН, на который де- легенда, что остров Русский, до послед- Владивосток сказано... сятилетиями возлагались большие на- Место, где не все плохо Тема номера / Issue Subject The Place where not Everything is Bad to be expressed. Such possibility seemed and tourist centre. It must enlarge due to to appear after the opening of Vladivostok absorption of satellite town of Artyom and 2. in early 1990s on the initiative of the a part of country district Nadezhdinsky 1. City Council. At the same time appeared and developing of Russky island, Popov an idea to create almost the first Island and Reyneke Island. The latest 1. В порт Владивостока зашел шикарный круизный agglomeration in the country – project projects that have been recently made лайнер с иностранными туристами. Фото Константина ‘Great Vladivostok’ described as its turn public by the governor include creating of 2 Кравченко. into the greatest international integration megapolis with three-four million people 1 2. 305-мм Ворошиловская батарея на о. Русский centre of Russia in Asia-Pacific Region. on the base of Vladivostok. Economically, – бывшая гордость Тихоокеанского флота. Фото автора. Relying upon its regulations the Pacific the city must keep on exploiting its transit Ocean Institute of the Far East Branch function of the transport centre that links 1. A luxurious cruise ship with foreign tourists touches at of the Russian Academy of Sciences the Trans-Sib with the Pacific Ocean a port of Vladivostok. Photo by Konstantin Kravchenko. (FEB RAS) created ‘a Conception of ports, Europe with Asia, and Russia with 2.
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