MACHU PICCHU. TO ME IT WAS A BUCKET LIST THING. A dazzling, six-century old restored city of the Inca Empire. Located in Peru where the very headwaters of the Amazon River tumble out of the Andes into the Amazonian jungle basin. Built precariously on a mile-high, knife-like ridge, dropping precipitously thousands of feet into the crashing waters of the river surrounding it on three sides below. A UNESCO World Heritage site, deemed one of the seven existing wonders of the world, and recently voted Trip Advisor’s most beloved tourist site in the world. No one who has ever seen this site pictured forgets it. All of that, just in case you were going to ask, “Why was that on your bucket list? We were very lucky, at this age and stage, that Anne and I have each other and the mutual interest and ability to make such a trip. Truly serendipitous is that we shared the trip with four-decade long friends, Randy and Cathy Wert, travel-tested by extended backpack, canoe, rafting and skiing expeditions over these decades to be reliably, “muy amable”. They were eager compadres for this one. In 2000, approximately 400,000 visitors toured Machu Picchu; by 2015, this exceeded 1,000,000 annual tourists. The Peruvian government is now struggling to maintain the integrity of this site, while preserving the huge economic impact which related tourism brings to the country. One can reach the site, and most of its million visitors per year do, via airlines into Cuzco, Peru, then a 5 hour bus and train trip to the base of its Machu Picchu Mountain, and then a 30 minute, very steep and winding shuttle bus to its very entrance. However, limited permits are given by the Peruvian government to about 15,000 visitors per year to trek to Machu Picchu along the trail built 600 years ago by the Incas to connect their capital at Cuzco, to Machu Picchu – a 30 mile trek that beelines through the center of the Andes, crossing mountain passes almost 3 miles high before dropping into this ancient city. The trekkers arrive at Machu Picchu, treading the same stones once trod once by Inca Kings in their arrival. Once I learned of this approach, I resolved that if I were going to Machu Picchu, I darn sure was going to arrive like the Inca kings did. We thus booked a trek on the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu, half a year ahead of time to insure we drew some of the very limited Descending Warmiwanusca pass, 14,000 ft. permits. Booking through one of the permitted guide services, they properly perceived we were interested in outdoor adventure, and our 4 day trek was expanded after some discussion to include a day of cross country biking and an overnight raft trip, filled in with 4 days in Cuzco around which our activities would center. Oh! - And pronouncing the name correctly is critical; note and pronounce each of the double “C’s” in “Picchu:” Machu (“Old”) Peek - chew (“Mountain”). Run ‘em together (“peechew”), and you’ve got a very clear pronunciation of… “Old Penis”. In the Quechua language, of course. GHOSTS OF THE INCA… As early as 3500 B.C., before the pyramids were built, before the rise of Rome, about the time of the first civilization in Mesopotamia, civilization manifested itself in the Andes Mountains of South America with the establishment of sedentary tribes which practiced agriculture and the domestication of animals. These civilizations developed fabrics and ceramics and constructed permanent urban areas with temples, houses, plazas, monumental architecture and irrigation, all pre-dating Roman civilization. They practiced religion and had structured government. Over the next 5,000 years, many of these South American civilizations flourished and perished, conquered and vanished, grew and disappeared. Many of their highly developed ruins are even now undiscovered, or just being recovered. The Incas were simply the last, and by far, the very greatest of these, before this march of civilization was cataclysmically exploded by the interposition of European civilization in 1532. The story of the rise and fall of the Inca Empire is one of the greatest dramas of human history, amplified by its setting in the Andes Mountains. Lima to Cuzco flight over the Andes The Andes are twice as long, twice as high, and twice as wide as the Rocky Mountains, being a close second on earth only to the Himalayas. The average height of the Andes, at 13,000 feet above sea level, almost equals the tallest peak of the Rockies…. Veronica Glacier, from starting point of Inca trek … and many glacier-covered peaks of the Andes reach to 4 miles above sea level. Their beauty is extraordinary and their imposition to human traverse is extreme. Amazingly, the Incas flourished in the heart of the Andes. Perfect examples of evolution, Andean Indians’ adaptation to the altitude led to distinctive physical developments. Short and stocky, men averaged 5'2" and women 4'9". The tallest of these elegant ladies below didn’t reach Anne’s shoulder. Compared to other humans, the Incas have slower heart rates, almost one-third larger lung capacity, about 25% more blood volume, and double the amount of hemoglobin, which transfers oxygen from the lungs to the rest of the body. About 1300 A.D., when Europe was emerging from the dark ages, a small tribe of these Andean Indians migrated into the conjunction of two high mountain streams in the central Andes at about 12,000 feet above sea level, and settled into that valley suspended between mountain ranges surrounding it. There, they built a fine city. For the next 100 years, they firmly established their roots, fought and conquered some local tribes, and expanded their little nation to about the size of Washington County, Arkansas. The city at the center of this tiny nation became Cuzco, capital of the Inca Empire. The title given their succession of leaders, who claimed authority by divine right from Inti, the Sun God, was “Inca”, meaning “king” or “emperor”. This title, “Inca”, became identified to them as a people, as well. Anthropologically, they were Quechua, and are more properly referred to as “Quechua” rather than “Inca.” Then, exploding in the 1430’s under a god- like hero, warrior, statesman, and ruler called Pachacutec, succeeded by 3 following, conquering Incas over the next 100 years, the Quechua conquered and governed western South America. In some cases they accomplished their expansion by overpowering military force, terror and extermination, but in many more, they used only the threat of such force to diplomatically amalgamate and subjugate whole, intact civilizations. By 1530, the Inca Empire spread across Southern Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Northern Chile, Bolivia, and upland Argentina. It stretched 3,400 miles north to south. East to west it stretched from the Amazon River Basin to the Pacific Ocean. It stretched further than the distance from Bangor, Maine to Mexico City; it was as big as five Californias, and if it were a country th Pachacuti, Inca conqueror and his modern admirer today, would be the 10 largest country in the world. Such conquest and control occurred in less than a century accomplished by perhaps 40,000 Quechua, dominating some 12 million subjects speaking 30 different languages. It was accomplished with Roman-like efficiency, tying the vast Empire together in that relatively short period by the construction of over 40,000 miles of all weather, hard surface roads through the Andes, which provided rapid communications and effective mobility of the Inca’s forces to maintain control and defense. While they used llamas for transporting goods, llamas cannot support a rider and the Inca had no horses; all movement was by foot. Their hardy couriers, Chaskis, running relay-style from station to station could communicate messages from one end of the 3,400 mile Empire to the other in 24 days. The road system was also critical to the Empire’s carefully designed social security from droughts, floods, and famine. It served to provide essential deliveries of grain, foodstuffs, weapons and tools, which were massively and strategically warehoused throughout the Empire, to locales stricken by adverse conditions. Every governed person was thus guaranteed sufficient food, clothing and shelter. Common systems of tribute, governance and law were imposed, where basically each able-bodied man contributed a third of each year to the Empire: building, farming, fighting or otherwise serving. The Incas imposed their Quechua language on their Empire as a common, unifying language. And they built in some of the most dramatic and difficult sites in the world, magnificent, masterpieces of craftsmanship and breathtaking structures; thus, Machu Picchu. That, in 1530 A.D. was the growing scope of Inca civilization and its mighty Empire. Regress from 1530 a few years, 38 to be exact, to when Columbus first set foot in the western hemisphere in 1492. A succession of explorers and conquistadores in the next 30 years brought smallpox to the Ollantaytambo New World, which reached out ahead of the European expansion. In 1527, Francisco Pizarro, a hardened Spanish conquistador of the Caribbean who was at Balboa’s side when he discovered the Pacific Ocean, pushed his explorations of South American southward along its Pacific coast making the first meaningful European contact with the Inca Empire, and realized he had contacted a well-organized civilization with wealth to plunder. During his two- year return to Spain seeking license from the Spanish Queen to conquer and rule Peru, smallpox arrived in peru, decimating the Quechua nation, including killing its emperor, Inca Hauyna Capac.