This little piggy doesn’t have to go to market

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Go Meat Free in May Vegging out with a burger Josie Wexler looks at of soil mould called Fusarium), grown However, two vegan versions are now on in fermentation vats. Although the name sale in the UK, which use potato starch ‘Quorn’ is trademarked, the patent on instead – frozen hot & spicy burgers and Foreword by Fran Graham of the ethics of veggie the mycoprotein itself expired a few years chicken style pieces. ago, so other companies can now make it In terms of ingredients across all Friends of the Earth. burgers and sausages. under a different name if they wish. So far brands, however, soya is still the number no one has wanted to. one choice. It is appealing because, unlike n this guide, we’ve covered ready- As vegans will no doubt be aware, not most other beans, it provides complete made vegetarian burgers and all Quorn is vegan because egg white is protein, containing all eight essential sausages that contain mycoprotein I used to bind the mycoprotein together. amino acids that we need. It has been (definition below), soya, or other beans, very day, we make lots of little takes 15,455 litres of water to produce 1kg quality, meat, less junk and more veggies. eaten in Asia for thousands of years and and nuts. These are foods that might be decisions about what we are going of beef, against just 255 litres for 1kg of We want everyone to see how easy and was introduced to the rest of the world in considered alternatives to meat in that to eat. All these little decisions potatoes. tasty meat-free meals can be, and to help the eighteenth and ninetieth centuries, but E they are a source of protein. We haven’t add up to a big impact, especially here Factory farming (also called intensive people to discover delicious new dishes. it didn’t catch on as a human food outside covered the ones that are just vegetables in the UK. With our current habit of farming) squeezes large numbers of It’s the reason we challenge people have a of Asia until much later. in breadcrumbs, or dry packet mixes like chowing down on meat 2-3 times a animals into close quarters. Caged egg Meat Free May – ditching meat and fish Strangely, none of the main types Sosmix, although the companies in this day, we’re damaging our health and our laying hens in the UK live in spaces only for a month gives participants the nudge of meat alternatives were created for guide may also make these and other environment. slightly larger than an A4 piece of paper. they need to give new ingredients a chance. animal welfare reasons. Soya sausages meat-free products. Our excessive taste for meat is Factory farmed animals are often treated For the unconvinced, meat alternatives are were invented in Germany during the driving climate change – global livestock with high dosages of antibiotics to stop a great way to start experimenting with first world war as a way of dealing with production is responsible for 14.5% of the spread of disease in the crowded meat-free meals. They make adapting well The ingredients meat shortages. Quorn was developed in total global greenhouse gas emissions. (See conditions. This is contributing to known, familiar recipes easy, and have Quorn is the leading brand in the meat the 1960s as part of a research drive to page 5). The impacts of climate change, antibiotic resistance, hurting our ability to smaller environmental impacts than meat. alternatives market in Britain. It is made All Quorn foods contain mycoprotein which is find new proteins, due to concerns about from extreme weather events, to migrating fight previously treatable human diseases. Outside of May, we’re asking people derived from the Fusarium venenatum fungus feeding the growing world population. of mycoprotein, which means protein and is grown by fermentation using a process pests and sea level rise, are going to make The World Health Organisation warns that to take the Let’s Eat Better Pledge; to eat from fungi (in this case based on a type similar to the production of beer or yoghurt. it a lot harder for us to feed everyone in we are heading for a “post-antibiotic era less, and better, meat, fish and dairy, eat the future. – in which common infections and minor less junk and processed food, eat more As well as contributing to climate injuries can kill”. plants, especially beans and pulses, and change, the environmental impact of But Friends of the Earth recognises to waste less food. It also helps people to meat is extraordinarily large. Factory that not all meat production is the come together to demand the Government farmed animals in the UK and Europe same. Factory farming, with its huge and food industry act to make it easy and are often fed on high protein feeds like environmental footprint, dependence affordable for everyone to Eat Better. We soya. Demand for space to grow this cash on oil-based fertilisers, chemicals and all deserve better – for our health, for our feed crop is resulting in alarming rates imported feeds, is not compatible with a environment, and for our taste buds.- will of deforestation in places like Paraguay. low-carbon future. But if we can reduce you join us and demand food that doesn’t Meat is also incredibly water intensive the demand for meat and dairy, we can cost the earth? – agriculture consumes 70% of the global change how we farm; graze animals To help you go Meat Free in May, use fresh water supply, a third of this is on instead of housing them in sheds and this guide to veggie and vegan sausages livestock production. The water footprint feeding them imported crops. and burgers to make ethical meat-free of meat is staggeringly large when It’s why Friends of the Earth are asking choices.

compared to fruit and veg. For instance, it everyone to join us eating less, and better | Dreamstime.com Davydenko © Mykola

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The veggie sausages The greenhouse gas emissions of food Greenhouse gas and land use impacts (upper limits) products is a big deal – agriculture of the future accounts for about a third of world greenhouse gas emissions.1 Some people are experimenting with As a rule of thumb, the production of making meat alternatives out of lupin Veggie vs meat meat from plants is inherently inefficient. beans, sometimes called “the soya bean of Each time you go up a level in the food the north”. chain you lose energy. For example, in the They are also very high in protein, and case of beef, which is substantially grass- they can grow in cooler climates than the environmental impacts fed, about 50g of soya goes into creating a soya, which makes them better suited to 100g beef burger.2 Europe. Their aficionados claim that they Red meat is also plagued by other are nutritionally and environmentally climate issues, as it is the source of so superior. At the moment lupin burgers are 129 kg CO much methane and nitrous oxide, both 2 extremely niche and not included on the far stronger greenhouse gases than carbon table, but can be bought online in places

© Pipa100 | Dreamstime.com dioxide. like boutique-vegan.com. (Please note, it is only animals that eat grass or other cellulose-based food that produce significant amounts of methane Cows in their flatulence and burps. Human flatulence is nearly all nitrogen). However, exactly how bad you think meat is for the climate depends on many things, not only how it is produced, but how you divide up responsibility for Lupin beans. things like deforestation. 2 It is hard to find figures specifically 420 m on veggie burgers, but the relative figures Which sausages & for meat, Quorn and soya-based meat substitutes in general are given in the burgers are vegan? graphic opposite.3 • All sausages & burgers from Veggies, Although there are wide ranges in the Dragonfly, Taifun, VegiDeli and Fry’s. figures (ranges shown under the graphic), Pigs

• Goodlife Spicy Veg Beanburgers, for simplicity the graphic only shows 11 kg CO2 Chickens Quorn 2 Soya Goodlife Nut Burgers. the upper limits. The overall picture that 15 m 6 kg CO2 6 kg CO2 2 2 2 kg CO • Wicken Fen Carrot & Coriander emerges, unsurprisingly, is that veggie is 8 m 3 m 2 2 sausages, Tomato & Garlic sausages, generally better, and red meat is the super 3 m Mushroom & Tarragon sausages. villain. • Quorn hot and spicy burgers Out of the veggie options, soya • All Linda McCartney sausages, plus generally seems to beat Quorn on plain burgers and 1/4 lb burgers = Land use – m2 years per kg of product = Greenhouse gas emissions – kg CO equivalent per kg of product Veggie and vegan 2 2 Figures show the upper limits. Ranges are: Beef 9-129 CO2 and 7-420 m land; Pork companies 2 2 4-11 CO2 and 8-15 m land; Chicken 2-6 CO2 and 5-8 m land; Quorn 2-6 CO2 and 1-3 2 2 Vegan companies: Veggies, m land; Soya 1-2 CO2 and 2-3 m land. Dragonfly, VBites (VegiDeli), Life Foods (Taifun) and Fry’s. Vegetarian companies: Goodlife and Weeks Foods (Wicken Fen). greenhouse gas emissions. Quorn is the grown badly, soya may start to look a lot The other companies: Hain winner on land use though, which is to be less virtuous compared to Quorn. One Celestial (Linda McCartney’s), expected given that it is not an agricultural calculation suggested that the greenhouse Nestle (Tivall), Dr A. Stoffel Holding product but is largely made from an gas impact of soya beans could vary AG (Granovita), Monde Nissin industrial process (fermentation). from 0.1 kg CO eq/kg if it was produced (Quorn and Cauldron), and all the 2 Yet as stated above, all of these figures sustainably, to 16.5 kg CO2eq/kg, if it supermarkets, sell meat in addition are apt to change enormously depending was produced on deforested land in the to vegetarian and/or vegan options. on how things are produced and, if Amazon.4 We only included the supermarkets that do their own brand veggie A field of soya plants and a field of beef cattle. As a rule of thumb, the production of meat from plants is inherently inefficient. References: 1 Natasha Gilbert, 2012, One-third of our greenhouse gas emissions come from agriculture, Nature 2 WWF, The Hidden World of Soy 3 Data compiled burgers or sausages. (Co-op does from Durk Nijdam Trudy Rood, Henk Westhoek, The price of protein: Review of land use and carbon footprints from life cycle assessments of animal food products and not). their substitutes, Food Policy 37 (2012) 760–770; and also from some of the studies it mentions 4 Érica Castanheira & Fausto Freire, 2013, Life-cycle greenhouse gas assessment of soybeans

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m nsu er o .o r c g All of our best Environment Animals People Politics +ve l USING THE TABLE USING THE TABLES a buys are vegan

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Ethiscore: the higher Positive ratings (+ve): h companies with t the score, the better the e • Company Ethos: Y explicit environmental company across the criticism = full mark, B U categories. e ES T B agendas, and for this = half mark. H = worst rating, E reason they score highly Hain Celestial is a large American h = middle rating, • Product Sustainability: The companies in our rating system. empty = best rating Maximum of five positive company that also produces a range of (no criticisms). marks. behind the brands other food and healthcare products. Our Best Buys are Veggies, Dragonfly, Taifun, VegiDeli and Fry’s. It doesn’t do very well in our ratings. It

BRAND (out of 20) Ethiscore Reporting Environmental Nuclear Power Climate Change Toxics & Pollution Habitats & Resources Testing Animal Farming Factory Animal Rights Human Rights Rights Workers’ Supply Chain Management Irresponsible Marketing Arms & Military Supply Genetic Engineering Call Boycott Activity Political Anti-Social Finance Ethos Company Product Sustainability COMPANY GROUP is registered in Delaware, a tax haven, Veggies is an explicitly political, vegan it uses some uncertified palm oil, Dragonfly [V, O] 15.5 H e 1.5 Dragonfly Group workers coop based in Nottingham. and it has directors that earn over £1 Veggies [V] 15.5 H 1.5 Veggies It has been going since 1984, e million. We couldn’t get information 15.5 Taifun [V, O] 14.5 H H e 1.5 Life Foods GmBH providing vegan catering at events on its soya sourcing. Fry’s [V] 13.5 h h h H 1 Fry Group Foods and supporting campaigns for human e and animal rights and environmental Hain Celestial has just agreed a $7.5 Goodlife [V] 13.5 h H 1 Goodlife Foods protection. It also sells radical books, million settlement to end an American VegiDeli [V] 13.5 h h h H e 1 VBites Foods ecological cleaning supplies, vegan class action lawsuit over it having Goodlife 12.5 h H Goodlife Foods multivitamins and Zapatista coffee. allegedly falsely labelled products as organic. (Not its meat alternatives).1 15.5 Wicken Fen [V] 12.5 h H h 0.5 Weeks Foods Its food is organic and GM free, and 14.5 its soya is sourced from Europe. Its Wicken Fen 12 h H h Weeks Foods Quorn and Cauldron, the two main ready-made sausages are available meat-free brands that you see in H H H H h h Granovita 9 Dr A Stoffel Holding AG from the Lembas wholesalers (www. supermarkets, are both now owned by Quorn [V] 8 H h h H H H H h 0.5 Monde Nissin lembas.co.uk) who also distrubute Monde Nissin, a Philippine company Cauldron 7.5 H h h H H H H h Monde Nissin to wholefood shops within a 90 mile that largely makes packet noodles. radius of Sheffield. Quorn 7.5 H h h H H H H h Monde Nissin Quorn was launched in the mid- eighties; a joint enterprise of the food 13.5 Linda McCartney [V] 6 H h h h H H h h H h h H 0.5 Hain Celestial Dragonfly Foods is a small vegan company based in Devon which company Rank Hovis McDougall and Linda McCartney 5.5 H h h h H H h h H h h H Hain Celestial makes exclusively organic, non-GM the chemical company ICI. M&S 5 HhhhHHHH h h hH M&S Group plc tofu products. Probably because of the nationality, Waitrose [V] 5 h hHHhHHHHhH h h E 0.5 John Lewis Parntership Taifun is owned by Life Foods, a it was quite hard to get much Aldi 4.5 h hhHhHHHHHH h Aldi German company which makes information on Monde Nissin. It Sainsbury’s [V] 4.5 h HH hHHhHhH h HH 1 J Sainsbury plc exclusively vegan, organic and non- doesn’t appear to have subsidiaries in tax havens, but neither could we Waitrose 4.5 h hHHhHHHHhH h h John Lewis Partnership GM tofu and tofu-based products. Its E products contain no palm oil, and find much by way of ethical policies Sainsbury’s 3.5 h HH hHHhHhH h HH J Sainsbury plc 13.5 are made from ecologically grown – at least for the company as a whole. Tesco 2.5 h HHHhHHHH H h HH Tesco plc European soya. However, Cauldron’s soya is from Lidl [V] 2 H HhHHHHhHHh hHhH 0.5 Schwarz Gruppe Canada, China and Europe, and is VBites foods used to be called organic and non-GM. Morrisons [V] 2 h HHHHHHHHHH hh H 0.5 Wm Morrison plc Redwood. It makes the Cheatin, Lidl 1.5 H HhHHHHhHHh hHhH Schwarz Gruppe VegiDeli and Making Waves lines of Tivall is owned by OSEM, an Israeli company that is in turn owned by Morrisons 1.5 h HHHHHHHHHH hh H Wm Morrison plc meat alternatives. We couldn’t get Nestle. It comes out very badly in information on its soya sourcing and it Of the widely available brands, Asda [V] 1 h HHHHHHHHhHHh HH 0.5 Walmart our ratings. This is because Nestle has does use some uncertified palm oil. It Quorn and Cauldron just beat the Tivall 1 h hH HHHHHHH HHHH Nestle been widely criticised in a number of also makes vegan cheese alternatives other main brand, Linda McCartney Asda 0.5 h HHHHHHHHhHHh HH Walmart and vegan desserts. areas and is subject to a boycott call for its actions regarding baby milk although Linda McCartney has more Fry’s is a South African family marketing. vegan varieties. [O] = organic [V] = vegan varieties See all the research behind these ratings on www.ethicalconsumer.org. Free to subscribers. company that produces vegan and GM-free food. It lost some marks for Nestle is also a member of many using uncertified palm oil, and we free trade lobby groups and in the couldn’t get information on its soya 2014 election cycle it gave $77,550 sourcing. However, it also runs the in political donations to US political 8 Fry’s Family Foundation that promotes candidates, with about two thirds of The ratings The big companies did not all fare so well, being marked down vegetarianism throughout the world. it going to Republicans. It also spent for, amongst other things: over $2 million on political lobbying.2 Many of the companies on the table are small in terms of • Likely use of tax avoidance strategies: Hain Celestial (Linda Hain Celestial produces the Linda turnover. This means Ethical Consumer does not require them to McCartney), Dr A Stoffel Holding (Granovita) & Nestle McCartney brand. All Linda have the type of well-developed environmental and supply-chain (Tivall) McCartney sausages and its plain 7.5 policies that we would expect of larger companies. They are also • Excessive directors pay: Hain Celestial & Nestle burgers and 1/4 lb burgers are vegan. too small to do much tax avoidance, to be big political donors, or • Political Donations: Hain Celestial (US Democrats) & Nestle to pay their directors obscene sums of money. (US Democrats and Republicans) References: 1 Newsday, 23/9/2015, Hain Celestial settles mislabelling lawsuit for nearly $10 million 2 www. opensecrets.org

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Soya’s role in the deforestation What can consumers do? of South America For those who want to avoid South American soya, Veggies, Cauldron and Taifun all say that their soya is Alongside logging and cattle ranching, not sourced from the region. Veggies’ soya production has a history of being and Taifun’s comes exclusively from linked to South American deforestation, Europe, while Cauldron’s comes from particularly in Brazil, which is one of the Europe, China and Canada. biggest exporting countries. If you want to avoid soya altogether, This absolutely does not mean that Goodlife burgers and sausages are vegetarians eating tofu have ever been made from other beans, vegetables a leading cause of deforestation in the and nuts, as are Waitrose’s. And Amazon. Most of the world’s soya is fed to Quorn is made from mycoprotein. animals; only 6% of it is eaten directly by We couldn’t get details of where the people. other companies source their soya. Yet it is still sensible to be concerned The Soya Moratorium is supported by

about where the soya in your veggie burger Baléia © Greenpeace / Rodrigo the European Soy Customer Group, comes from. A Brazil nut tree stands alone in a soya field planted on deforested land. whose members include Waitrose, If it is grown well, soya should be an M&S, Tesco, Co-op, Sainsbury’s, environmentalist’s best friend. It produces So far, engagement with these schemes protection. Over the past few years it has Nestle and ASDA. They should be more protein per land area than any other has been pretty limp. Only 0.5% of soya built a national land registry to clarify commended on being part of such a major crop. It grows particularly well in from Brazil is RTRS certified, and half the who owns what, and companies are saying successful initiative. tropical climates, which is why so much credits that have been issued have not been that this should give it sufficient agency In terms of the purchase of RTRS is grown in South America, but Brazil has sold, due to a lack of buyers. A slightly to enforce its own land use policies as it credits, the World Wildlife Fund enough former pasture or abandoned land © Jiri Rezac / Greenpeace © Jiri Rezac larger amount is ProTerra certified, but sees fit. describe M&S, Waitrose, Sainsbury’s 5 to double the amount of farmland without Seven-foot-tall Greenpeace chickens invade McDonald’s outlets after a report revealed the not much. It is possible that this lack of But there are several problems here, and Tesco as leaders.9 M&S has 1 harming a single leaf on a single tree. The chickens used in their products were fed on soya that comes from the Amazon. interest may have been partly due to the one of which is that the law is too weak. committed to buying the most out issue is making sure that this happens. success of the moratorium. Since 1965 the Brazilian ‘Forest Code’ of any UK shop, although this is still The Brazilian Soy only covers the Brazilian Amazon, and Many groups such as Friends of the has officially protected Brazil’s forests; only enough to cover, in its own Brazil’s success story deforestation for soya has continued in Earth have criticised the Roundtable for stipulating protected areas and demanding words “the soy used in all M&S other places such as Argentina, Paraguay having lax standards, pointing out, for that landowners conserve native forest Oakham chicken products”. There is good news, as Brazil has managed Moratorium and Brazil’s Cerrado forests. example, that the criteria contain loose on a certain proportion of their land, There is a lack of organised to vastly reduce deforestation over the past The Brazilian Soy Moratorium was But the biggest problem with the ideas like “native forest” that are easily ranging from 80% in the Amazon, to 20% campaigns in this area at the decade. The rate at which the Amazon is established in 2006, after a huge global moratorium is that it is currently set to open to abuse.6 in other areas. While that is something, it moment, probably because the being cut down is now 70% lower than campaign by Greenpeace. Two huge end in May 2016. Sadly, there appears to still allows for quite a bit of deforestation. problem looked sufficiently like it it was ten years ago. As a result, it has industry groups agreed that none of their be consensus that the deal will end but the Furthermore, the law was weakened in was solved so that everyone turned reduced its greenhouse gas emissions more members would buy any soya grown on What happens now? reasons for this remain opaque to us. 2012 after a big political fight, which does their attention onto palm oil instead. than any other country on earth.2 recently deforested land. And this was a Things have definitely improved in the last not bode well. However, the Soya Moratorium has Most analysts put this achievement massive deal as these groups – representing decade. But there are still major problems. Another problem is that, even with the shown the power that companies down to a political shift within Brazil. traders like Cargill, ADM and Bunge Soy certification Firstly, there is something that none land registry, it remains to be seen how really have to do things in this area, A big part of the story is the moderately – control 90% of the Brazilian soya market. and the power that the public have to schemes of these schemes address, which is soya’s well the government will enforce the law. left wing government that has been in The moratorium was initially a short- force them into it. So if it all starts to indirect impact – widely believed to Recent research found farmers five power since 2003. It has made some term agreement, but it has now been As well as the moratorium, there are two unravel in the next few years, it will be a factor in the remaining Amazon times more likely to violate the Forest effort to tackle deforestation: expanding renewed eight times. Farms violating it main certification schemes that are active be worth focusing as much pressure destruction. It works like this: cattle Code than the soya moratorium.8 protected areas, shutting down illegal are identified using satellite data from the in South American soya: The Roundtable ranchers sell their land to soya farmers, on them as we can. logging operations, and throwing those Brazilian Space Agency. on Responsible Soy (RTRS) and ProTerra. pocket the money and move into the forest responsible in jail. Another part is that the The moratorium has been an incredible They both started about the same time as themselves. The soya comes up smelling soya and beef industries have both agreed success, which is especially impressive the moratorium. A decade on, their most of roses because it is not being grown on to moratoriums on the buying of produce given that the price of soya has been high glaring feature is how much less successful ‘recently deforested land’. It has displaced grown on deforested land – more on that over the period. One recent academic study they have been than the moratorium. its guilt onto the cattle. While there is also References: 1 France-Presse, 17 Sep 2013, Soybean farming blamed for increased deforestation in Brazilian below.3 found: The schemes both demand that soya a beef moratorium in Brazil, it is not yet meets basic environmental and labour Amazon 2 Howard, June 5, 2014, Brazil Leads However, there is also bad news. “Between 2001 and 2006, prior to the clear whether it is working as well as the World in Reducing Carbon Emissions by Slashing In spite of this success, the Amazon is moratorium, soybean fields in the Brazilian standards. The ProTerra scheme differs soya one.7 Deforestation 3 Boucher, 2014, How Brazil Has still being lost at about 6000 km2 a year Amazon expanded by 1 million hectares, in that the soya must be non-GM, and Secondly, as stated above the soya Dramatically Reduced Tropical Deforestation 4 Gibbs et al, 2015, Brazil’s Soy Moratorium, Science 347, – an area about the size of Norfolk. contributing to record deforestation also, when you buy a bit of ProTerra moratorium seems about to reach the end certified soya, it is guaranteed to be the 6220 5 Meijer, 2015, A comparative analysis of the Furthermore, the rate of deforestation rates. By 2014, after eight years of the of its life, and then it is pretty unclear what effectiveness of four supply chain initiatives to reduce © Greenpeace / Daniel Beltrá has started rising again in the last couple moratorium, almost no additional forest same bit that received the certification. will happen next. deforestation, Tropical Conservation Science, Vol. 8 of years. And some of the things that was cleared to grow new soy.”4 The Roundtable allows some certification The theory is that the Brazilian (2): 583 6 Friends of the Earth et al, 2011, Certified credits to be bought and sold separately A Greenpeace protest against Cargill’s illegal responsible? Critical assessment of the Round Table on have contributed to the reduction in Inevitably, there are some problems. government will take over forest Responsible Soy 7 Karen S. Meijer, op cit. 8 Gibbs et from the soya that earned them. soya port in the Amazon rainforest and the deforestation are now under threat. One problem is that the moratorium deforestation caused by the expansion of soya. al, op cit. 9 WWF, 2014, Soya Report Card

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