Around Shellharbour

The Shellharbour region south of is attracting ever- increasing numbers of residents but there are still plenty of natural areas to be enjoyed. At its northern boundary, the entrance to Lake features numerous small islands worth exploring, while to the south the makes a picturesque exit to the Tasman Sea. The coastline in between is spectacular, with attractive beaches and wild headlands wrought by volcanic activity. Inland, breaches the Escarpment along a route long used by Aboriginal people and the regenerating rainforest is quietly obliterating signs of early attempts to disturb it.

These diverse environments offer habitats for a variety of birds and animals, so walkers might want to take a pair of binoculars with them, plus a snorkel and mask if visiting beautiful Bass Point. Premier Illawarra buses link the region with Wollongong and Kiama and can be used to access several of the coastal walks.

Bristol Point

113 22 Entrance: 22 Lake Illawarra Entrance: two islands walk Walk directions Follow the sandy path two islands walk Head to Perkins (or to get to the Windang 1 Windang) Beach via the Foreshore Park near the sand path behind the SLSC SLSC. Walk through the Lake Illawarra was once a deep, and walk to Berrwarra park (which has toilets, freshwater lagoon. When sea At a glance Point, the southern tip of BBQs and a playground) on the Windang peninsula, a boardwalk above the inlet levels rose some 6,000 years ago Grade: Easy which stretches some 7 and then on a pebblecrete following the last great ice age, Time: 2 hrs 30 mins kilometres north to Red path. There’s a coffee shop the lake became a broad bay that Distance: 6.5 km one way Point. It seems that sand nearby. The path continues was gradually cut off from the sea Conditions: No shade; tide is no longer accumulating under the road bridge to by the sand bar that today forms affected here and the beach is little Edith Lacey Park. the Windang Peninsula. In 1796, Getting there: slowly being eroded. Stroll around the sandy entrance Walk up some steps to named the lake Bus: Premier 51/53 from Wollongong stops on the north to Lake Illawarra. 3 cross the bridge on a viewing platform at the ‘Tom Thumb’s Lagoon’ after his ship; side of Windang Bridge footpath, keeping a watch island’s western edge, it’s thought that the lake entrance is Car: Drive south to Windang from When you reach the for birdlife on the lake: overlooking Bevans and Flinders’ ‘Canoe Rivulet’. This easy Wollongong; immediately before 2 northern breakwater over 75 different aquatic Cudgeree Islands. Mounts waterside wander from its tip will Windang Bridge, turn left onto you’ll pass a fenced birds visit it. Once over Keira and Kembla can be Fern St; turn right into Waratah St, site designed to protect the bridge veer right, over seen in the distance. appeal to all ages, with swimming passing the tourist park, to reach shorebirds: this is the only Pelican View Reserve, to opportunities at a patrolled beach the Windang SLSC car park at the place in the Illawarra where cross another footbridge The island path road end or in the safe shallows of Lake the endangered Little Tern onto Picnic Island, fringed 4 returns to the Illawarra. Picnic Island is a fantastic nests. by mangroves. A sandy footbridge, after which ‘hide’ for birdwatchers and Windang Island caters for those with a foot track rounds cross over the grass and Lake 3 WINDANG the island go left on the footpath/ geological bent as well as for the photographer hoping to capture great Illawarra Judbowley Fern St – a bird cycleway, walking under coastal scenery. Point Tidal sanctuary the southern approach Flats – to to the road bridge. The Windang 4 Picnic Beach reach path goes through the Island Tourist a extensive parkland of Windang Park Foreshore Reddall Reserve – a 1988 Park bicentennial project – Rd Berageree P Island 5 Pine 1 Perkins boasting all amenities T (Windang) T Tree SLSC including change Park Beach rooms and a kiosk open on weekends. Berrwarra Kurrakwah Reddall Point Bay Shellharbour 2

Windang WARILLA Tom Thumb Entrance Island 6 N Pde 8 7

0 500m Windang T Bay

114 115 22 Lake Illawarra Entrance: two islands walk 22 Lake Illawarra Entrance: two islands walk

with the mainland at all but high tide. Take care not to get stuck on the island!

According to a 6 Dreaming story, Windang Island is the abandoned canoe used by the Thurawal people to reach the continent. To your right, Windang Bay is protected by the sandspit and Warilla Beach sweeps south to To the east, a shallow it a safe haven for young Barrack Point. You’ll 5 arm of the lake children to paddle. Follow pass a photogenic set entrance is formed by the the southern lake entrance of carriage wheels long, near-shore Berageree breakwater and sand to embedded in the sand; Island. Boats are barred reach the built-up spit a rail line was built here from this channel, making connecting Windang Island in the 1890s to carry rock quarried off the Shellharbour is tucked the side trips and loops, island for breakwaters. in behind the Cowrie is about 2 kilometres. Cross some purple-hued Island headland and Bass Alternatively, in season rock of volcanic origin Point lies beyond, with and, you could wade/swim – tufaceous sandstone Saddleback Mountain across the shallows of the – and walk around the prominent inland. The lake’s entrance, well in island’s shore platform. direct return, missing out from the breakwaters.

On the island’s far Illawarra environment – Walking the lake side, look out for the 7 Often referred to as the ‘Jewel igneous intrusion or dyke of the Illawarra’, Lake Illawarra that runs along the rock is one of the region’s great platform for 100 metres natural assets. At 35 square or more. Back near the kilometres, it is the second sandspit, climb the wooden largest saltwater lake in NSW steps to the viewing and offers opportunities for platform for expansive fishing, prawning, swimming, coastal views. snorkelling, boating, waterskiing and windsurfing. And for To the north walkers? Sadly, as the Illawarra’s population has grown, sections is the Illawarra 8 of its 37 kilometres of foreshore have been affected by unsympathetic Lake entrance with the development, but there are stretches where the walker is made to feel very escarpment beyond, the welcome. From Hooka Point, near Berkeley, you can follow a shared cycle/ long sweep of Perkins walkway clockwise around, across the lake’s inlet, and as far as Yangar Beach and the Five Point at Oak Flats. A short street walk to Albion Park rail station, a train to Islands off Port Kembla’s Unanderra and bus 34 will take you close to your start point: a walk of about Red Point. To the south, 23 kilometres. Haywards Bay area is currently being developed and Yallah beyond Barrack Point, Bay poses an obstacle, but a full circuit of the lake may one day be feasible.

116 117 23 Shellharbour 23 Shellharbour village

Walk directions Pass the saltwater village Take the beach access 2 Beverley Whitfield 1 path to the north of Pool, open all year. In Shellharbour’s South Beach. 1895, efforts were made The small, historic port of A large marina is proposed to shape Shellharbour as Shellharbour should in no way be At a glance for directly south of the a holiday destination: the beach. Across the bay is rock baths were established confused with the commercial Grade: Easy Bass Point, the location of and Norfolk pines planted. centre of Shellharbour City: the Time: 2 hrs Walk 24. Turn left and walk A short way further on former is a delightful place for a Distance: 5.5 km circuit around the point on the are a row of old-fashioned A jetty and boat store stroll. This protected cove was Dogs: On leash shore platform. The tourist picnic shelters. Walk 3 were built here in 1859 once known as Yerrowah and was a Getting there: park on the headland stands around more rocks to a but within a few years a popular meeting place for the Wodi Bus: Premier 53 links Wollongong on a midden of shells and sand beach, backed by larger jetty was needed and station to Shellharbour Beach other inedibles, a legacy Little Park, and then to the harbour entrance was Wodi people. Colonial graziers and Car: Leave Shellharbour Rd to of the indigenous people the pretty harbour of deepened to allow the entry timber-getters arrived at the turn of turn east into Mary St at the who camped in the area for Shellharbour. of steamers. The concrete the nineteenth century and the port lights; turn left at Darley St, and thousands of years. Cross breakwater was added in was shipping out cedar from the right into John St to reach a the stony beach. 1879. Colonies of figbirds council car park at Bassett Park TO and little corellas often 1820s. On this short walk you can BARRACK POINT roost in the ancient fig trees appreciate the natural charms of the adjacent to the harbour. harbour and sight some local history. Walk around the harbour on the path to gain access to the rocks to the north.

Shellharbour Rd A fish-cleaning basin N near the end of Towns T 5 SLSC Blackbutt Rd Wollongong St Street often draws Reserve T 0 250m the interest of local T pelicans: watch out Beach when walking

Wentworth below their light-pole P 4 perches! 6 Grey 3 Cowrie Mary Island Rd Park Shell Harbour Shellharbour St Towns St 7 P Reserve Beverley Sophia St St Shellharbour Wilson St 2 Whitfield Pool

Boollwarroo

Addison SHELLHARBOUR St VILLAGE Shellharbour Beachside P Tourist 1 Park

Darly St T Bassett Shellharbour Park South Pde Beach

118 119 23 Shellharbour village 23 Shellharbour village

the bluff of Barrack Point and the inlet on its north known as Little Lake. These offer excellent locations for watching shorebirds: little penguins are sometimes sighted fishing off the headland. Nearby Blackbutt Forest is also worth a visit; see the boxed text. Otherwise, follow the footpath along Wollongong Street.

Turn right to walk up 6 Towns Street, passing the Anglican church of St Pauls, built in 1886 to Leave the roadway and replace an earlier structure. head right, down over the Turn left into Mary Street, Maris, the village’s oldest grass to the rockshelf. passing the 1871 public church, dating from 1861. school and the 1865 Plaques alert you to other From the tip of this Wesleyan chapel, then left buildings that once stood 4 point, known as again into Addison Street, in the vicinity and there are Cowrie Island, there are where a memorial on the several cafés to be found in fine views north to Port left remembers the work Addison Street. Kembla and the Five of Caroline Chisholm, Islands, and inland to Mt who helped many migrant Back at the seaside, Kembla and Mt Keira. On families settle in the 7 continue on the path the rough path, pass the district. On the right are through Shellharbour steps leading up left to the the much-restored Allen’s Reserve and skirt the road and continue around, Store at No.35 and the Tourist Park on a sandy ignoring more steps at attractive 1871 house path above the rock the southern end of the Windradene on a corner. platform. This brings you beach. Walk a short way It’s worth detouring briefly back to South Beach and along Shellharbour Beach right along Wentworth the access path back to the to some wide steps and a Street to view Stella car park. ramp near the SLSC. Out and about – Blackbutt Reserve There are many 5 options here: it’s a On a hill just inland from Shellharbour Beach is a 100-hectare reserve that contains one of the last viable remnants of coastal plain forest in the Illawarra good spot for a swim when and it offers a glimpse of what the landscape was like before European the beach is patrolled in settlement. Blackbutt Reserve has various facilities scattered at its edges but season and Bardsley Park the central area is bushland, criss-crossed by various trails and footpads. It is has a playground. Those a popular spot for walking leashed dogs and for watching woodland birds. who want to extend the Walkers can reach it from waypoint 5 by following the cycle/walkway along walk can continue north Beach Road, right along Shellharbour Road and the left to climb the hill at on the beach and explore Ertwin Zatschler Drive.

120 121 24 Bass Point 24 Bass Point Reserve Finding the track Reserve Near Shellharbour village, leave Shellharbour Road at the lights to head east Just south of Shellharbour, one down Addison Street and rocky little headland resisted At a glance follow signs for Bass Point; on Bass Point Tourist Road, encroaching settlement and Grade: Medium pass the long quarry jetty quarrying. The combined values Time: 3 hrs and turn left to park in of Bass Point – its natural beauty, Distance: 5 km circuit a large lay-by down by a cultural and archaeological fea- Conditions: Easy rock-hopping, boat ramp. one short difficult section tures – have warranted a listing Walk directions in the Register of the Australian A sign marks the start of Heritage Commission and it is indeed a special place to visit, 1 the Bass Point Coastal especially if you’re prepared to leave the level path. When the Walk. The grassy path sand and rock-hop around There’s an indigenous water temperature permits, you’ll want to leave dry land altogether, wanders past volcanic latite to the next small cove. 3 cultural path around but bring a snorkel and mask with you! With its diverse habitats, rock to soon reach Red this clearing. Middens this is also a great location for watching birdlife. Sands Beach, presumably This beach of large on Bass Point indicate named after the iron-oxide 2 grey pebbles is known Aboriginal activity here intrusions in the nearby as The Middy. Continue from at least 17,000 years rocks. From here, there on to soon pick up the ago, when this area was are sweeping views of the main walking track to well inland; one yielded the and reach another tiny sand earliest edge-ground axe the coast from Shellharbour beach at Beaky Cove, found outside of tropical to Port Kembla. Behind backed by banksias that are . At the eastern the beach is a thicket of frequented by honeyeaters edge of the clearing, take lantana, backed by tall and introduced red- time to inspect the Gutter: coastal banksias. Around whiskered bulbuls. Rejoin a dramatic, 40-metre-long from the beach, head the path briefly and walk volcanic dyke, formed past a set of steps coming through stone barriers to when molten magma was down from the right, then reach the main picnic area, forced into a fissure of continue around onto the fringed by casuarinas. existing rock and then

The Gutter Red Sands 4 Beach 3 Boston The Beaky Memorial Point Middy Cove P 1 P

P 2 T ▲ Bass Point Tourist ▲ T Rd TO SHELLHARBOUR Viewing Bass Platform Point P 8 Viewing Bass Point P 6 5 Platform Reserve Bushrangers Bay

Maloneys N Bay 7 Dyke 0 500m

122 123 24 Bass Point Reserve 24 Bass Point Reserve eroded away. Walk through low tide, fragments of the reserve and there is plenty the parking area (with ship can be seen off its of marine life to be seen by tucked-away toilets) and namesake, Boston Point. snorkellers and divers. The along the road, to pick up the Continue around the pebbly, wind-protected Shipwreck Memorial Path. point on a stony path to beach is a great spot for a another shelly beach. More picnic. You might detour This monument rock-hopping brings you up the steps to a viewing 4 honours those who lost around the tip of Bass Point platform (also a possible their lives when Australian – named after exit to shorten the walk: soldiers went to the aid of who explored the coastline see the boxed text). Near sailors aboard an American in 1796 – to the mouth of the bay’s southern head, ship wrecked in 1943. At deep Bushrangers Bay. pass another side path, known as Fisherman’s Nearby, between inlet the water. The rocks here Walk. Keep rock-walking 5 and littoral forest is a are slippery: if it’s not to past lichen-stained latite, large, interesting freshwater your liking, turn back and dotted with rockpools. pool. Continuing on from retrace your steps. Views open up south to here requires a more Saddleback Mountain and difficult scramble where The clear waters of the Killalea coast and you you traverse a side inlet 6 Bushranger Bay are pass yet another possible while a few metres above safeguarded as an aquatic exit path. Get around

Walk variation If you tire of rock hopping, you might want to leave the shore at either Bushrangers Bay (waypoint 6) or out on the southern headland shortly after. Both these inland paths lead to the end of a dirt road. Follow the road, through a stand of littoral rainforest, back to the main picnic area, from where you can follow either the road (watching out for young drivers who like to hoon around here) or the shoreline back to your car.

124 125 24 Bass Point Reserve another shallow bay: a grassy path leads between a frog pond and the rocks above.

Just after the start 7 of Maloneys Bay, you’ll reach a large dyke or chine that’s impassable at water level. Backtrack a few metres to pick up a faint footpad up through the scrub. Don’t go too far inland, the footpad stays close to the top of the chine to exit back onto the rocks at the other side. Watch for a mini blowhole a short way on. Just before reaching sand at Maloneys Bay, leave on a broad, stony track uphill, with the boundary of a blue metal (or latite) quarry to your left; its lease is due to expire in 2020.

When you reach a 8 picnic area you’ll find a short path detouring to a viewing platform over Maloneys Bay. Cross the barrier gate and walk along the broad, dirt road by grassland to reach the main road in a few hundred metres. Turn left for 100 metres and then turn right to walk down to your car.

126 127 25 Minnamurra Spit 25 Minnamurra Spit and Killalea Lagoon Walk directions and Killalea Lagoon continues through swamp brief detour right through From the further, west oak and forest red gums. It coastal rainforest to the 1 side of the turning levels at a track junction; banks of the Minnamurra circle, walk south over the continue ahead, veering River estuary. It may be hard to find but Killalea grass, which soon becomes right. When you reach State Park is worth the effort as it At a glance a mown track descending another Y-junction This is a tranquil through a lantana thicket it’s well worth spot to pause preserves some eight kilometres 2 Short circuit and swings left through an making a amid the large grey of the best coastal scenery in the Grade: Easy open rusted gate. This was mangroves and southern Illawarra. At its southern Time: 1 hr 30 min once a farm and there is swamp lilies. tip, the Minnamurra sand spit Distance: 4.5 km circuit still much rehabilitation 10 Killalea Across the tidal Lagoon

Long circuit work to do. The ▲ inlet, Yellow shelters a rare patch of littoral ▲ 9 Minnamurra River Frasers Rock Colliery rainforest and the northern bound- Grade: Medium/hard Picnic Area and rail bridge can be seen ary is marked by a freshwater lagoon Time: 4 hrs 30 min come into sight 11 dismantling Distance: 11.5 km circuit that attracts numerous waterbirds, below as the escarpment including flocks of black swans. Conditions: Includes scrambling the ridge P below Knights and thickets; avoid at high tide or The park is a popular destination descent Hill. Closer swell Killalea Dr for birders, surfers, picnickers, (The Farm) to hand, you 8 Beach might catch sight educational groups and weddings; T Killalea P or sound of an it even offers basic camping. Here is a two-part walk (the second leg State eastern whipbird Park adds a degree of difficulty) that showcases the best of Killalea. or a black faced 7 Dykes monarch. Back at Finding the track 6 Westringia the junction, take the South of Shell Cove, leave Shellharbour Road left (south) onto Bass Point Quarry Road, Killalea Point other fork, which soon Dyke following signs to Killalea Park. Turn right into Killalea Drive, go through a boom gate T narrows to a footpath. and park at the circle at the very end of the road. The park is open daylight hours only. At a T-junction, turn

1 N left (right is another river detour) and almost P immediately right between 5 0 500m

Minnamurra beach dune and river estuary. At yet another junction head left, cresting Tasman the dune to reach the 2 Sea beach.

3 Minnamurra The northern end of (Mystics) Charles 3 Minnamurra Beach Railway (known to surfers as Rangoon Mystics) is where the board (Stack) Ave Beach Island riders congregate but you should have the southern Minnamurra stretch to yourself. Walk River Ave south for 200 metres or so 4 with Rangoon (also called Minnamurra MINNAMURRA Point Stack) Island in view, leaving again via a track

128 129 25 Minnamurra Spit and Killalea Lagoon 25 Minnamurra Spit and Killalea Lagoon

through the back dune to arrive once more at the river bank at a tiny sand beach. From here you can walk the river sand to the end of the spit – you’ll need to carry your shoes except at low tide but there are few obstacles. Views across the river are to Minnamurra village and south to Minnamurra Point.

From the southern 4 point, follow pristine Mystics Beach north, passing close by Rangoon Island. Dunes give way to rock and cliff as you approach the northern tip where a set of rock steps yellow and orange lichen. mown grass of the former prepared to scramble. off the beach provides a There’s a clamber up and farm. Follow the grass edge More straightforward short-cut to your car. This down at one point but the right, above the headland rock-hopping will get you marks the end of the short going is reasonably good. to pick up a footpath to the shore platform – and easy circuit. taking you back down to streaked with mineral-rich On reaching a deep, the rocks, well past the instrusions – just before If the swell isn’t too 6 high gulch, you have obstacle. Killalea Beach. 5 big, continue around a choice: the sure-footed toward the headland of can walk on exposed rocks The going is easy Also known as The Westringia Point, named near its edge (taking great 7 until the first of two 8 Farm, this is one for the coastal rosemary care!) to avoid an otherwise chines or dykes is reached. of the best and most that grows here. This unpleasant bush bash Clamber down its side popular surfing beaches involves rock-hopping through lantana thicket to a tiny pebble beach at on the south coast; in fact, some way above water and bitou bush to skirt it. its head and up the other The Farm and Mystics level over dark volcanic At the head of the gulch, side. The second chine is Beaches have recently latite, stained with brilliant pick up an eroded footpad even narrower but both been designated a National ascending inland to the can be rounded if you’re Surfing Reserve. Walk to

Illawarra environment – The battle for Killalea Killalea is not a National Park but a State Park, managed by a board of trustees, and it is not immune to (over)development. A pitched battle over a proposed multi-million-dollar eco-tourism resort – 106 accommodation lodges and amenities – has raged over the last few years. The Save Killalea Alliance was formed and union green bans were imposed by the South Coast Labour Council. The chill winds of the global financial crisis helped cool the ardour of the development group for the project and in 2010 the State Government announced development plans had been scrapped. However, it could all too easily happen again; Killalea deserves permanent protection!

130 131 25 Minnamurra Spit and Killalea Lagoon 25 Minnamurra Spit and Killalea Lagoon

where you get sweeping views of the coastline south to Kiama’s Blowhole Point. Curve left behind the lagoon to reach a large, shady tree and picnic table.

Soon after the 10 picnic area, leave the lagoon track for a right-branching path up a steady hill. This emerges at Frasers Picnic Area by the foundations of the old farmstead and near a the eastern end of the beach vantage point for bird- picturesque but off-limits and head inland on a track watching. Well over 60 rotunda. through the back dune to species – waterbirds, skirt above Killalea Lagoon’s shorebirds and raptors – Linger awhile to eastern banks. The sand have been recorded here. 11 take in the superb dunes separating the sea If low water-levels expose scenery. There are several and lagoon were once the mudflats you may see picnic tables and BBQs and site of a short-lived gold crakes, rails, dotterels, toilets are not far away. mining business in 1872 sandpipers and stilts. Out Cross the grassy grounds owned by Edward Killalea. on the water look for black to Killalea Drive and head swans, chestnut teals, left on the grass verge The track veers musk ducks, ibis, egrets, to stroll 1.75 kilometres 9 close to the lagoon’s and many others. The path mostly downhill to the car, reed-lined bank allowing gains height and nears a keeping straight on at both a short detour to a good quarry boundary fence junctions.

132 133 26 Macquarie Pass 26 Macquarie Pass Cascade Rainforest Cascade Rainforest Walk directions soon pass on your left a Cross the grass-mown huge strangler fig in a small 1 picnic area to a metal clearing. signboard at the far right The rugged escarpment amphi- corner, marking the head Continue upstream – theatre of Macquarie Pass National At a glance of the Cascade Rainforest 3 there are several places Walk. This is the first of you can easily detour to the Park is a remarkable sight to the Grade: Easy several interpretive signs stream where maidenhair west as you travel through the Time: 1 hr along a mostly well-graded ferns grow along the bank. southern Illawarra. The park protects Distance: 2 km return path that makes use of an Most of the red cedars have some of Australia’s most southern Conditions: Best after rain, but old cedar-getting trail. long since been logged subtropical rainforest and is named not during but rainforest species such after a historic route taken from The path soon leaves as cabbage tree palm, 2 the Cascades Stream, tree-fern, liana vine, giant You’ll next reach the coastal plain to the highlands. This creek-side rainforest walk to a waterfall a tributary of Macquarie stinging tree, lilly pilly, 4 base of a railed ramp in the foothills of the park is the only officially designated walking track in Rivulet, climbing log steps coachwood and sassafras which rises up and then the park. It’s a short but beautiful stroll, especially after rain. to meet another track abound. In cooler seasons, descends to creek level joining from the the fungi can be at the confluence with a Finding the track left. Descend spectacular smaller tributary creek. From the , turn inland on the just south of Yallah once more after rain. Trees around here bear k G c le a and follow it right at a 4-way junction through Albion Park. About 9.5 kilmetres from to the n r axe marks, reminders of v T here, cross Macquarie Rivulet and park in the large bay on the right. creek iew the selective logging in the and Ford area. Steps deposit you on flat rock at the base of the Cascade.

Pause here awhile The 5 and admire the scene. If you look up 5 into the lush forest canopy you’ll see Ca N sca elkhorns and birds de 4 s nest ferns; these

0 500m large epiphytes are associated more with subtropical 3 Stream Macquarie Pass than temperate National Park rainforests. Retrace your 2 steps to return to 1 your car.

ra P Illawar Hwy TO SHELLHARBOUR

Ma cq uarie Rivulet

134 135 26 Macquarie Pass Cascade Rainforest 26 Macquarie Pass Cascade Rainforest

White Sands Walk

Illawarra environment – A song in the forest Along the length of the Escarpment, forested gullies offer a habitat for superb Out and about – Exploring nearby lyrebirds. Even if you don’t see one of these large birds, scratching around The Cascade Walk ends at the lowest of several drops that the Cascades the forest floor, you’re quite likely to hear one. At first, you might think you’re Stream makes as it tumbles downhill; higher up, the stream is forded by the listening to a currawong or perhaps a whipbird, but then you realise that all these Glenview Track, a broad, easy track open to walkers but now closed to vehicles songs are coming from the same source: the lyrebird is the master of mimicry. (access is 3.3 km further up the highway). The start point for another walk A male arranges a range of bush sounds in a symphony that includes his own can be found across the Illawarra Highway from where you have parked the buzzing and clicking calls, in order to entice the females (who do sometimes car. A road servicing properties gives access to a minor footpath through the sing themselves, but with less mimicry). When in full display, the male also rainforest and along the lower reaches of Macquarie Rivulet (Walk 27 takes you throws his long tail feathers over his head and dances about on a mound of leaf to an upper level). The path rises and falls along the northern bank, negotiating litter that he has scraped together. It’s an incredible performance, heard most exposed tree roots in places, to visit several delightful pools along the rivulet often during the winter breeding season. Your best chance of getting tickets is but then deteriorates. Return the same way. at places where the lyrebirds are used to people, such as at Minnamurra Falls.

136 137 27 Waterfalls of 27 Waterfalls of Macquarie Rivulet

Walk directions once part of Clover Hill Macquarie Rivulet Rounding the gate, Farm. A grove of tall 1 descend gently on the cabbage tree palms stands Clover Hill Road manage- stark against the unfolding It may not be a fully-fledged river but ment trail. Initial filtered view of undulating foothills Macquarie Rivulet certainly punches At a glance views of the southern and distant ocean. These escarpment are soon lost venerable specimens must above its weight! As it plunges Grade: Easy/medium (variations as the road crosses the first have been saved from the medium/hard) off the Illawarra Escarpment, its of several creeks. A second forest clearances. course through the Macquarie Pass Time: 2 hrs 30 mins creek crossing soon follows. National Park is punctuated by Distance: 7 km return Look for the detour four named waterfalls and several Conditions: Slippery rocks at You’ll presently be 4 right (about 200 rivulet crossing unnamed ones, not to mention 2 surrounded by the tall, metres on a grassy farm moist forest typical of the track) to inspect the ruins its many cascades. This delightful park’s creek gullies. Despite of the farmstead, built overgrown path that looks return walk, on an old road closed to traffic, takes you through open its height, much of the against a rock wall. Swamp less promising. As you forest and rainforest to a regenerating farm and ruined farmstead and forest in the Macquarie Pass wallabies keep the grass prepare to push through then on to easy-to-get-to Rainbow Falls and Mulangong Falls. area is regenerating after very well clipped, and low bracken you have a many years of extensive quieter walkers may see direct view of the imposing Finding the track logging. The track now them. Back on the main north-south escarpment. undulates a little before track, you soon reach a Macquarie Rivulet Proceed as for Walk 26 but continue up Macquarie Pass for 2.4 kilometres, then turn contouring above another second clearing where all plunges over these cliffs left into signed Clover Hill Road and park by the locked gate.. creek gully. Water usually that remains is a benchless as Macquarie Falls: after flows in this more major table. Cross a third and final prolonged rain, Macquarie creek which you cross on a clearing to reach a saddle. Falls and neighbouring concrete bridge as the track McAndrew Falls should be doubles back. Ignore the path that visible from here. The track 5 continues on into soon makes an easy descent In another 400 metres forest (see the variation) and merges with a lower 3 or so, cross a branch of and hunt to its right for an track from the left, reaching

this creek and emerge from

I l

the moist forest l a

w

into a large a r r clearing, a 2 3 Rd

▲ ▲

l Hwy il 1 H P 4 r ve Clo Clover Hill Macquarie (Ruin) Pass National Park

Rivulet

5 N Mulangong 6 Falls rie ua Rainbow Macq 0 500m 7 Falls

138 139 27 Waterfalls of Macquarie Rivulet 27 Waterfalls of Macquarie Rivulet the bank of Macquarie Rivulet. Take care, as the smooth rock can be slippery.

A few metres down- 6 stream, Rainbow Falls plummets down a narrow defile. The sling around a tree at the top of the falls is a clue that summer canyoners abseil down this rivulet. A few metres upstream, a dilapidated concrete causeway can be used as a crossing point. From here the path divides: take the upstream footpad (right) but soon divert right on a minor footpad down to the creek. Here a huge balancing rock partly obscures your view of a beautiful set of cascades below Mulangong Falls. The base of these falls can be viewed more directly by following the main footpad a little further before again diverting right down to the rivulet.

Now you should be 7 just above Balancing Rock. You can carefully walk barefoot up the creek Walk variations to the plunge pool at the These two short but worthwhile detours will add to the walk’s adventure (and base of the falls but be difficulty) quotient. warned, the water is bracing At waypoint 5 you can take the other track, which soon peters out in an open even in summer. Return to turpentine forest. An onward ‘goat track’, possibly formed by abseilers getting the causeway crossing and out of the rivulet, descends a ridge very steeply to reach a rock promontory retrace your steps to the car. overlooking a beautiful upstream waterfall, not named on the map. Return the same way. For a rainforest immersion, walk down the creek branch at waypoint 3. In less than half a kilometre it joins the main branch at a lovely little pool. Walk this branch upstream a similar distance to regain Clover Hill Road. On the way up, look for outcroppings of coal shale at a creek bend; there are ancient leaf fossils in the large shale boulders in the creek bed.

140 141