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Service Manual
SERVICE MANUAL FOR SINGER MODEL 471U THE SINGER COMPANY From the library of: Superior Sewing Machine & Supply LLC CONTENTS (C MECHANISMS 1) 1 |T| Needle bar mechanism 1 fll] Clutch and brake 29 m Rotary hook mechanism I fi2] Cutter safety device 29 ITj Needle zigzag mechanism 2 [III Needle bar 31 |T| Feed mechanism 3 ini Rotary hook shaft 32 m Clutch mechanism 4 [i^ Upperclamping foot and lower B Cutter mechanism (1) 6 thread cutter 33 B Cutter mechanism (II) 7 [I^ Base needle plate and cutter [Tj Upper thread cutter mechanism 8 position control 34 B Lower thread cutter mechanism 9 Oil Upper clamping foot position control ... 35 [lo] Presser bar lifter mechanism 9 M Rotary hook 35 [li] Lubrication 36 Tension releasing mechanism 10 [2ol Needle sidewise movement ((DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURES)). adjustment 36 (HI Needle zigzag reference m Covers position adjustment 36 m Lower thread cutter HH Scissors assembly position control 38 m Presser HD Scissors guide position control 38 B Rotary hook [24] Covers 39 B Upper thread cutter B Length feed ((ADJUSTMENtH) 40 m Clamping foot 14 m Needle sidewise movement B Cutter safety device 15 adjustment 40 [9] Clutch and brake 15 m Needle bar and rotary U Feed 16 hook adjustment 40 Needle bar 16 m Upper clamping foot lifter un Cam relay 17 adjustment 42 M Upper shaft 17 m Cutter adjustment 44 Auxiliary shaft 18 m Buttonhole width and reference M Needle zigzag 18 position adjustment 46 Needle breakage detection 19 m Upper thread cutter adjustment 48 0 Cutter 19 m Lower thread cutter adjustment 50 Lower shaft -
Glossary of Sewing Terms
Glossary of Sewing Terms Judith Christensen Professional Patternmaker ClothingPatterns101 Why Do You Need to Know Sewing Terms? There are quite a few sewing terms that you’ll need to know to be able to properly follow pattern instructions. If you’ve been sewing for a long time, you’ll probably know many of these terms – or at least, you know the technique, but might not know what it’s called. You’ll run across terms like “shirring”, “ease”, and “blousing”, and will need to be able to identify center front and the right side of the fabric. This brief glossary of sewing terms is designed to help you navigate your pattern, whether it’s one you purchased at a fabric store or downloaded from an online designer. You’ll find links within the glossary to “how-to” videos or more information at ClothingPatterns101.com Don’t worry – there’s no homework and no test! Just keep this glossary handy for reference when you need it! 2 A – Appliqué – A method of surface decoration made by cutting a decorative shape from fabric and stitching it to the surface of the piece being decorated. The stitching can be by hand (blanket stitch) or machine (zigzag or a decorative stitch). Armhole – The portion of the garment through which the arm extends, or a sleeve is sewn. Armholes come in many shapes and configurations, and can be an interesting part of a design. B - Backtack or backstitch – Stitches used at the beginning and end of a seam to secure the threads. To backstitch, stitch 2 or 3 stitches forward, then 2 or 3 stitches in reverse; then proceed to stitch the seam and repeat the backstitch at the end of the seam. -
Sewing Cutting & Pressing Equipment
L & HO RIA US TR EH S O U L D D N D IN SSEEWWIINNGG CCUUTTTTIINNGG && PPRREESSSSIINNGG EEQQUUIIPPMMEENNTT CHANDLER MACHINE U.S.A. L.L.C. www.chandlermachineco.com NEW JERSEY MIAMI LOS ANGELES ©2009 Chandler Machine USA -409 Formerly Chandler Machine Company of Ayer, MA PORTABLE BUTTON SEWER Model CM491 PORTABLE, HAND-OPERATED BUTTON SEWING MACHINE • No electricity needed • No experienced operator necessary. • Instant change for sewing both 2 and 4 hole buttons. • Six to ten seconds to sew on a button. • Automatic stop • Automatic thread-break. • Takes full range of button sizes. • Sews all types of flat buttons, • Twelve firm stitches in every button, with last two stitches double-locking button to material. • Exceptionally durable, high quality construction. • Net Weight (head only)- 37 lbs. • The finest, easiest to own and most practical machine for shirts, pajamas, uniforms, underwear and work clothes. Chandler Model CM491 CLASSIC HAND OPERATED BUTTON SEWER • completely portable and automatic Anyone can learn to • no electric plug or connections necessary Heavy operate it in minutes! • no motor to worry about Steel • no belts to break Stand AMAZINGLY FAST! also available Speedy, sure button replacement for eliminates labor and reduces customer CM491 complaints. This machine will meet all your Chandler Sews Them All tailor and cleaners service requirements! It's even easy enough and fast enough to be on a clothing producton line. End View of CM491 BUTTON SEWER / TACKING MACHINE CM24K MODEL CM24K on optional Single Needle, Single Thread stand Chainstitch, Cylinder Bed Button Sewing And Tacking Machines With Vibrating Clamp, Single Pedal Operation 8-16-32 Parallel Stitches Two Or Four Hole Button Sewing Operation Thread cut by scissor action Speed, Max. -
Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018
The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Front Cover Image: Textile Detail of an Evening Dress, circa 1950s, Maker Unknown, Middlesex University Fashion Collection, London, England, F2021AB. The Middlesex University Fashion Collection comprises approximately 450 garments for women and men, textiles, accessories including hats, shoes, gloves, and more, plus hundreds of haberdashery items including buttons and trimmings, from the nineteenth century to the present day. Browse the Middlesex University Fashion Collection at https://tinyurl.com/middlesex-fashion. The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Editor–in–Chief Jennifer Daley Editor Scott Hughes Myerly Proofreader Georgina Chappell Published by The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org Copyright © 2018 The Association of Dress Historians ISSN 2515–0995 Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) accession #988749854 The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer reviewed environment. The Association of Dress Historians supports and promotes the advancement of public knowledge and education in the history of dress and textiles. The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. The Journal of Dress History is copyrighted by the publisher, The Association of Dress Historians, while each published author within the journal holds the copyright to their individual article. The Journal of Dress History is circulated solely for educational purposes, completely free of charge, and not for sale or profit. -
Needle Keeper
Harvest Accent Rug By Marie Duncan Our indian summer corn is perfect to accent an autumn inspired throw rug. It brings a touch of fall into the house and can be used year after year. Make this autumn rug using the October 2012 free design. Our corn design is the 2012 October Monthly Design #413300. It is free for the month of October 2012 from www.myembroideries.com. Click on the link, Free Monthly Design, on the HUSQVARNA VIKING® website to download it. When you get to the Checkout, enter the coupon code FreeOCT2012 in the box. Click Apply Coupon. After October 2012, the design will be available for purchase on www.myembroideries.com. ©2012 KSIN Luxembourg II, S.ar.l. VIKING, 5D and INSPIRA are trademarks of KSIN Luxembourg II, S.ar.l. HUSQVARNA is a trademark of Husqvarna AB. All trademarks used under license by VSM Group AB. Sewing Supplies: • Three Hole Yarn Foot 413187045 • Clear Seam Guide Foot 413034845 • Do All Quilter's Hoop 920115096 • INSPIRA® embroidery needles, size 90 620071896 • INSPIRA® topstitch needles, size 90 620099096 • INSPIRA® 4mm twin needles, size 90 620105096 • INSPIRA® Tear-A-Way stabilizer 620112296 • INSPIRA® 6” applique scissors 620102696 • Purchased throw rug with NO rubber backing (Ours came from Target) • Four yards of ⅜” wide twill tape or grosgrain ribbon • Yarn • Scraps of fabric for corn and husks • Robison-Anton 40 wt. rayon embroidery thread • Bobbin thread • Sewing thread Let’s Build a Fence: 1. Snap on your Three Hole Yarn Foot. 2. Insert a size 90 topstitch needle. The topstitch needle has a sharp point and will accommodate heavier threads and fabrics. -
Tailoring Series TECHNIQUES for TAILORING UNDERLINING a TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining Is a Second Layer of Fabric. It Is Cut By
tailoring series TECHNIQUES FOR TAILORING UNDERLINING A TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining is a second layer of fabric. It is cut by the garment pattern pieces and staystitched to the wrong side of the corresponding outer sections before any seams are joined. The two layers are then handled as one. As a general guide, most suit jackets and coats look more pro- fessional when underlined. Underlining is especially recommended for lightweight wool materials, loosely woven materials and light- colored materials. For additional information on selecting fabrics for underlining and applying the underlining, see Lining a Shirt 01' Dress HE 72, N. C. Agricultural Extension Service. STAYSTITCHING—Staystitch all outer garment pieces before construction begins. If garment is underlined, stays-titching is done when the two layers of fabric are sewn together. Staystitch 1/3 in. outside seamline (on the seam allowance). Stay- stitch “ with matching cotton thread on all curved *areas that may stretch during construction such as necklines, side seams, shoulder seams, armholes, and side seams of skirt. Use directional stitching always to prevent stretching of fabric and to prevent one layer of fabric from riding. The direction to stitch is indicated by small arrows on the pattern on the seamlines. INTERFACINGS—Select a high quality hair canvas for the front and collar of coats and jackets. The percentage of wool indicates the quality—the higher the wool content of the canvas the better the quality. Since a high percentage of wool makes the hair canvas fairly dark in color, it cannot be used successfully under light-colored fabrics. In these cases use an interfacing lighter in color and lower in wool content. -
LOOKING for a NEW SEWING PROJECT? You Can Find What You Want in “Inspiration”, Our Sewing Magazine
BERNINA 475 QE LOOKING FOR A NEW SEWING PROJECT? You can find what you want in “inspiration”, our sewing magazine. Thanks to great sewing patterns and detailed sewing instructions, every project succeeds right away. Inspiration magazine is available in German, English, French and Dutch * Not available in all countries. Welcome Dear BERNINA customer Congratulations! You have decided on BERNINA and therefore on a product which will delight you for years. For more than 100 years our family company has attached greatest importance to satisfied customers. As for me, it is a matter of personal concern to offer you Swiss development and precision at the height of perfection, future-orientated sewing technology and a comprehensive customer service. The BERNINA 4-series consists of several ultramodern machines, whose development not only focused the highest demands on technique and the ease of use but also considered the design of the product. After all we sell our products to creative people like you, who do not only appreciate high quality but also form and design. Enjoy the creative sewing on your new BERNINA 475 QE and keep informed about the various accessories at www.bernina.com. On our homepage you will also find a lot of inspiring sewing instructions, to be downloaded for free. Our highly trained BERNINA dealers will provide you with more information on service and maintenance offers. I wish you lots of pleasure and many creative hours with your new BERNINA. H.P. Ueltschi Owner BERNINA International AG CH-8266 Steckborn 3 Edition notice Edition notice Graphics www.sculpt.ch Text, Setting and Layout BERNINA International AG Photos Patrice Heilmann, Winterthur Part number 2018/02 en 1031755.0.04 1st Edition Copyright 2018 BERNINA International AG All rights reserved: For technical reasons and for the purpose of product improvements, changes concerning the features of the machine can be made at any time and without advance notice. -
Placket Construction Options
Placket Construction Options 1 Type1: Two Separate Bound Edges on a rectangular stitching box The key to this structure is that the bindings are initially stitched only to the seam allowances on each side, and NOT stitched across the end, of the clipped box, which means that they, and the clipped triangle at the bottom, remain loose and can be arranged before the nal nishing to go on either side of the fabric, as well as either over or under the other, after joining them at the sides. The widths and lengths of the bindings and the space between the sides of the clipped box determine all the other options available in this most exible of all the placket types I know of. Variation 1: Both bindings t inside the stitching box If you cut the bindings so the nished, folded widths of both are equal to or smaller than the space between the initial stitching lines, as shown above, you can arrange both ends at the clipped corners to all go on one side of the fabric (right or wrong side), along with the clipped triangle on the garment. You’ll get the best results if the underlapping binding is slightly smaller than the overlapping one. This can be man- aged by taking slightly deeper seam allowances when you join this piece, so they can initially be cut from the same strip. Or, you can place one end on each side with the Both ends on RS One end on RS, Both ends on WS triangle sandwiched in between. -
Stay Tapes Sheet( Notions)
Emma Seabrooke, C.S.I. Knit Patterns for the Hard To Fit Certified Fit & Pant • Palmer/Pletsch Instructor SewkeysE stay tapes are all FUSIBLE Price is $8.50 on-line, except as noted. Double Sided Stay Tape – 1/4" wide by 25 yards, color: clear SSI Knit Stay Tape – for invisible control 1/2" wide by 25 yards, color: clear 1" wide by 25 yards, colors: black, white 1" wide by 25 yards, color: clear ($13.50 online) 1/2" wide by 25 yards, colors: black, white Knit Stay Tape/Interfacings – Woven/Straight Stay Tape – 1/2" wide by 25 yards, colors: black, white, ivory 1/2" wide by 25 yards, colors: black, white, natural 1" wide by 25 yards, colors: black, white, ivory 1 1/4" wide by 25 yards, color: black, white, natural 1 1/4" wide by 25 yards, colors: black, white, ivory FOR HEMS: FOR SEAMS: 1/2" KNIT stay tape for narrow hems or very wide For shoulder seams use 1/2" WOVEN/STRAIGHT stay tape. hems on knit and or light weight fabrics. For the crotch seam use 1/2" WOVEN/STRAIGHT stay tape. 1/2" STRAIGHT stay tape for narrow or wide For light weight side and sleeve seams use 1/2" KNIT hems on woven fabric or fabric that you do not wish to stay tape. It supports side and sleeve seams in fabric that have give or stretch. is sheer or needs help to be stable, allowing the fabric to One inch or 1 1/4" STAY TAPE/INTERFACING for a go through a sewing machine and serger without 1” or 1 1/4" hem on knit and or light weight fabrics. -
MAINTENANCE, ADJUSTMENT and REPAIR of INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES by WAYNE SNYDER, MASTER RIGGER US ACADEMY of PARACHUTE RIGGING
MAINTENANCE, ADJUSTMENT AND REPAIR OF INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES by WAYNE SNYDER, MASTER RIGGER US ACADEMY of PARACHUTE RIGGING Presented at the PIA INTERNATIONAL PARACHUTE SYMPOSIUM RENO, NEVADA February 2007 MAINTENANCE, ADJUSTMENT AND REPAIR OF INDUSTRIAL SEWING MACHINES PREMISE: You know how to sew and you are working with an “E” thread lock stitch sewing machine and it was sewing and now it’s gone bad. You probably just changed something – 98% of the time just go back and inspect and correct what you just did and you will be back in business. COMMON CASE SCENARIOS: A. Bobbin change B. Top thread change C. Jam D. Broken needle and/or changed needle Before we get into these specific areas, let’s go back and remember the basic way the machines work. All lock stitch machines make the same stitch. 301, 304, or 308: these are just lock stitch machines. “THE FLOW ACTION” • The needle does down • The needle goes below path of hook (Figure 1) • Needle bottoms out (B.D.C.) • Needle comes up (3/32 inch - common measurement), loop forms on hook side of needle (non-long groove side of the needle) (Figure 2) • Hook picks up top thread loop and carries it around bobbin case. (Figure 3) • Hook drops top thread off (Figure 4) • Thread take-up arm takes out slack and sets stitch in goods. (Figure 5) • Think of the bobbin thread as a long straight rod with the top thread spiraled around it. Sew a piece of paper with two different color threads – rip paper to remove it and there is your example. -
Service Manual & Parts List Model: Nh60
SERVICE MANUAL & PARTS LIST MODEL: NH60 1 INDEX LOCATE AND IDENTIFY PARTS ..................................................................................................3 WIND THE BOBBIN ......................................................................................................................4 PREPARE YOUR TOP THREAD ...................................................................................................5 LCD DISPLAY ...............................................................................................................................6 WHAT TO DO WHEN ................................................................................................................ 7-9 CHANGING EXTERNAL PARTS FACE COVER..............................................................................................................................10 FREE-ARM COVER ...................................................................................................................11 FRONT COVER .................................................................................................................... 12-13 REAR COVER .............................................................................................................................14 MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENT PRESSER BAR HEIGHT ............................................................................................................15 NEEDLE DROP POSITION ........................................................................................................16 ADJUSTMENT -
Machine Maintenance Handout
11/14/2019 EMBROIDERY MACHINE MACHINE MAINTENANCE Bill Garvin The more you know, the better you sew www.BGTECHSERVICES.NET 1 Stitch Hook Timing 11/14/2019 www.issshows.com 2 Rotary Hook Timing Hook timing Relationship between the tip of the rotary hook to the scarf on the back side of a needle 11/14/2019 www.issshows.com 3 1 11/14/2019 Rotary Hook Timing 11/14/2019 www.issshows.com 4 Rotary Hook Timing Correct timing position Common position settings for commercial machines 200 and 25 degrees on the timing wheel. Some machines are digital, Without mechanical number 11/14/2019 www.issshows.com 5 Rotary Hook Timing Jigs: Block and Round are common styles Block: Round: Normally Normally used for used for needle bar Hook timing depths as well as needle bar depths There are several different types of jigs that can assist with timing on your machine. These can normally be purchased from your machine distributor or from machine parts sellers 11/14/2019 www.issshows.com 6 2 11/14/2019 Rotary Hook Timing The Needle is the only metal that goes in a rotary hook can cause physical damage (burrs) The solution is sand paper: 80 grit and 1,000 grit is what BG TECH SERVICES uses 11/14/2019 www.issshows.com 7 Bobbin Cases Most sewing issues are created by the bobbin case 11/14/2019 www.issshows.com 8 11/14/2019 www.issshows.com 9 3 11/14/2019 Reciprocator and Needle Bar Driver This drives the needle up and down to create a stitch Good Reciprocators Life expectancy is forever - However, they are designed to break (human error) 11/14/2019 www.issshows.com