The Northwest of Paris France Bonjour, my name is Nolwenn! Follow me on a

WITH ABOUT 350,000 square tour of northwestern France! miles, France is the largest coun- try in Western Europe, and roughly the size of Texas. In 2003, its population reached 62 million, of which about 12 million live in or around the capital, Paris. France also includes several overseas territories: Guadeloupe English Channel and Martinique in the Caribbean; (La Manche) Le Havre French Guiana just north of Trouville Brazil; Reunion Island in the Cherbourg Deauville Etretat Indian Ocean; French Polynesia, New Caledonia, and Wallis and Normandy Rouen Futuna in the Pacific Ocean; and Beaches the Antarctic territories. Colleville- Since the European Union's sur-mer Giverny inception, some 50 years ago, Mont St. Michel Bayeux Haute- Normandie France has been at the forefront of Saint-Malo Caen Paris the construction of a strong and Brest Basse-Normandie integrated Europe. The European Chartres Union remains one of France's top Bretagne Rennes foreign policy priorities. As one of the five permanent members of Lorient Forêt de Paimpont Orléans the United Nations' Security Le Mans Council, and the fourth highest Carnac Pont-Aven Angers contributor to the U.N. budget, Chambord France is deeply involved in all sig- Loire Tours nificant international affairs. Guérand But France is also a country Peninsulala Nantes Bourges where people are strongly St-Nazaire Pays de attached to their regional roots. la Loire Centre This brochure will help you understand the deep ties the Atlantic Les Sables French continue to have with d’Olonne their native regions. Ocean This brochure belongs to a series of six: the Northeast, the Northwest, the Southeast, the Southwest, Ile-de-France, and the overseas territories. Brochures Bay of are available on request, by writ- Biscay ing to [email protected]. From William the Conqueror to D-Day

FROM THE royal A divinely inspired national heroine and heartland of the Loire saint, Joan of Arc led the campaign to Valley to the independ- drive the English out of France during the ent Brittany of the Celts, Hundred Years War. At the age of 17, Joan the region’s traditions led her troops to a key victory in the Battle have been forged by a of Orléans. Captured by the English, she complex and turbulent The Megaliths of Carnac, dating back was burned at the stake in Rouen in 1431. to around 5,000 BC, are a testament to history. the timelessness of the Northwest. Little is known Thousands of ancient granite stones about the original The region of Normandy also prospered during the dot the southern coast of Brittany and Celtic inhabitants of Renaissance, through its trade with the rest of the world. With com- are thought to have had a religious or Brittany, first known as merce came the exchange of ideas, and many of the area's inhabi- astrological significance. Armorica (Armorique). tants espoused the Reformation. Indeed, Normandy was home to However, the Celtic more Protestants than any other region in France. Following the revo- legacy is still strong today—legends of drowned cities and cation of the Nantes Edict in 1685, which had allowed Protestants to enchanted forests swirl throughout the land, inexplicable archeo- practice their religion freely, many fled to Britain or the Netherlands. logical formations rise up in forests and fields, and the Breton lan- guage and traditions are still a part of daily life. Chambord is the largest As for the Roman empire, it left an indelible mark on the and most extravagant of Northwest by creating towns and agricultural estates, and by cat- the Loire châteaux. François alyzing the rise of Christianity. Rouen, which is today a prosper- I turned this hunting lodge ous and culturally dynamic city due to its industry and maritime into a castle in 1519 and it trade, was founded by the Romans. was completed by his The Middle Ages grandson Louis XIV in saw the creation of the 1685. Chambord's grand Chartres Cathedral interior includes 700 copies (withits magnificent of François' salamander stain-glass windows), emblem, 365 fireplaces the famous Abbey of (one for every day of the Mont-St-Michel, and year), and a double helix The Renaissance Castle of Chambord the Bayeux Tapestry, staircase that was suppos- which depicts William edly designedby Leonardo da Vinci and which ensures that people A section of the 230 foot-long Bayeux Tapestry, going up do not meet those going down. which is displayed in the Centre Guillaume le the Conqueror's inva- Conquérant Museum in Bayeux, Normandy sion of England. But (www.bayeux-tourism.com). the area was also rav- Modern times have seen the region shaped by economic aged by wars, in particular the Hundred Years War (1337-1453). development as well as by war. One of the defining moments in It ended with the unification of Normandy and France, and Western history took place on the Normandy beaches as the Brittany became a part of France a century later, in 1532. Allied troops of Operation Overlord staged the largest amphibious assault in military history (see boxed text). The French will never Perched atop a rocky island, the forget the sacrifice and courage shown by the American, British Abbey of Mont-St-Michel is and Canadian soldiers who fought to liberate France from Nazi visited by one million people oppression. each year. It grew from a hum- ble oratory to an influential On D-Day, June 6, 1944, 135,000 monastery and pilgrimage des- Allied soldiers stormed the tination. Many of its rooms are Normandy beaches and achieved regarded as masterpieces of a key victory over the Nazi occu- medieval architecture and it is piers, thus beginning the libera- home to some of the strongest tion of Europe. Remnants of that The Abbey atop Mont-Saint-Michel tides in the world. battle can still be seen on the During the Renaissance, the Kings of France chose the Loire beaches today, and the American Military Cemetery in Colleville- Valley as the location for their grand châteaux, and Tours served as sur-Mer whose 9,385 perfectly aligned crosses overlook Omaha the country’s de facto capital during this time. Today, Tours is a bustling Beach, is a poignant reminder of the sacrifices that were made. D- city of almost 300,000 people and a popular jumping-off point for Day War Museums in Caen, Bayeux, and other cities commemorate those who wish to visit the area's lovely châteaux. the events of that day, which the French have sworn never to forget. Bocages, Troglodytes and Magic Forests

THE CLIMATE of north- The Loire valley is known western France is character- for its troglodyte ized by its northern latitude dwellings, found along and its proximity to the the Loire river and in the Atlantic Ocean and English region of Saumur and Channel. These large bodies Vouvray. These houses, of water produce changeable, restaurants, and hotels British-like weather patterns are caves carved out of in areas such as Haute- soft limestone, or tufa, Normandie, where the climate and have been secure is wet. But they also provide a accommodations for temperate climate of warm A troglodyte dwelling centuries. Now people, summers and mild winters. known as troglodytes (cave-dwellers) use them as summer homes, These effects are even felt fur- wine cellars, and for growing famous Loire mushrooms. ther inland, with the Loire Valley known as La Douce Northwestern France's principal rivers, the Loire and the Seine, France (gentle France), where are also the two longest rivers in France. The Loire, flowing 634 miles summers are rarely oppressive through Orléans, Tours, A village in Brittany and winters are sunny. and finally the dynamic The almost 1,300 miles of coastline abutting the English Channel Atlantic port city of Nantes, and the Bay of Biscay yield bountiful seafood, and attract beach-lovers is called the "last wild river in the warm summer in Western Europe." The months. The jagged Seine, France's chief water- coastline is made up way, originates in the of granite cliffs, Burgundy region (south- sweeping bays, and east of Paris). It is 485 miles deep estuaries that long and flows through contain a wealth of A view of the 634-mile-long Loire River Paris and Normandy, finally wildlife habitats. In forming an estuary at the some places, such as Atlantic port of Le Havre. UNESCO has recognized both rivers as the Bay of Mont St.- World Heritage Sites because of their important historical significance. Michel, the distance The rolling farmland between the high- of northwest France is tide mark and the lush, emerald green, dot- The breathtaking Etretat Cliffs low-tide mark can be ted with grazing cattle, as much as 12 miles, making it one of the greatest tides in the world. yellow fields of rapeseed, Salt marshes are abundant along the and tiny villages. The coasts of northwestern France. Norman lambs region's soil is rich and fer- graze on these marshes, giving their meat a dis- tile, optimal for growing tinctive, salty flavor. Similarly, cheese made fresh fruits and vegetables. from the milk of Norman cows often has a dis- In fact, the Loire Valley is tinctive salty taste. Breton farmers on the known as the "Garden of marshes of the Guérand Peninsula harvest France.” The Loire Valley is dotted with beau- natural salt crystals for a table salt known for its The Valley is also tiful, game-rich forests where A salt harvester minerals and sea-like smell. home to some fine vine- Renaissance kings loved to hunt. yards, which produce white Perhaps the most famous forest of The bocages of northwestern France wines like Sancerre, Pouilly- northern France is the Forêt de form a landscape of small, irregularly- Fumé and Muscadet. Paimpont (a.k.a. Forêt de Brocéliande). shaped fields separated by rows of Though not as well known A reminder of the dense woods that windbreaking trees (such as beeches) as the red Bordeaux wines once covered all of Brittany, it is and tall hedges. During World War II, further South, they never- known as the legendary setting of bocage was a major obstacle to the theless delight the palate the tales of King Arthur. People still Allied troops who had come to liber- and offer a refreshing alter- come here to seek out the magical Bocage in Northern France ate France. The difficulties of crossing native to better established spring where the wizard Merlin met the thick brush made U.S. tanks and soldiers vulnerable to attack. varieties. Viviane, the Lady of the Lake. Fishing, Shipping, Tourism:a Vibrant Economy

WHILE MUCH of the region used to be primarily agricultural and Rennes is an continues to be very reliant on farming, it has also evolved in the past international center 30 years to include small- and mid-sized industries. for telecommunica- Agriculture has tions research, as well traditionally been a as being a capital city vital part of the north- steeped in history and western French econ- tradition (see boxed omy and, because of text), while Saint- the region’s extensive Nazaire has become The Breton parliament of Rennes coastline and vast net- one of the world’s Rennes is the capital of Brittany and one of work of rivers, fishing leading ship builders the oldest existing seats of parliament in is also an important (the largest ship in the France. It is an important industrial and intel- source of income. world, the Queen lectual center and boasts a famous universi- Brittany is France's Mary 2, was built here Fishing Boat in Brittany ty that is well known for its Celtic studies. number one agricul- in 2003). tural and fishing region, accounting for 8 percent of France's total Once a fortified island, the walled city of St-Malo is now a agricultural production (by value) and 46 percent of its fishing pro- major port, ferry terminal, and beach resort. From the 16th to the duction. Its principal crops include artichokes and cauliflower. 19th centuries, the city gained prosperity through the exploits of During the last 50 years, industry its seafarers. Heavily bombed in 1944 (over 80 percent of the city has rapidly developed in northwestern was destroyed), St-Malo has been very scrupulously restored. France. Food and chemical/petroleum industries dominate the market. Electronics, aeronautics, naval construc- tion, steel, textile, and paper firms thrive as well. Trade and commerce also play a key role in the economy of northwest- ern France. Normandy produces 1.3 percent of all French exports and con- Le Pont de Normandie sumes 1.2 percent of all imports. Major international ports in the region include Le Havre, on the Seine’s Caen, Nantes, and Le Havre. estuary, is France's second- Tourism, of course, is an integral most important port, after part of the economy. Hordes of visitors are Marseilles. Today, it is an drawn to Mont-St-Michel and the important industrial center chateaux of the Loire Valley.Beaches and and home to several oil resorts in attractive seaside towns such as refineries. Near Le Havre The fortified seaside town of St-Malo Trouville-sur-Mer, Deauville, and Les can be found le Pont de Sables d'Olonne are popular summertime Having once vied with Rennes for the title of capital of Brittany, Normandie, the world's destinations for French and foreign travel- and said to still be Breton at heart, Nantes is now the capital of Pays- second longest suspen- ers. Ferry links to the United Kingdom de-la-Loire. It is a diverse city, with high-tech towers overlooking the sion bridge. Modeled on make such Breton cities as St-Malo popu- port, canals, and Art Nouveau squares. Chic bars and restaurants are Florida's Sunshine Skyway, lar destinationsfor British vacationers. The crammed between medieval alleys and buildings. it spans 1.33 miles. Northwest is also a very popular location In the Centre region, Orléans has focused on "green technolo- for second-home buyers looking for a tranquil place to relax or retire in. gies" and pharma- Le Mans is the birthplace of the French automobile industry and ceuticals. It is also a Considered the touris- attracts worldwide cosmetics hub, and tic capital of the Loire attention each has an increasingly Valley by some, Tours year with its "24 dynamic computer serves as a starting Heures du Mans," and electronics indus- point to visit the sur- a 24-hour car race try. Nearby Bourges rounding châteaux. that tests the is home to many People also come to endurance of its defense companies, enjoy the half-timbered drivers and vehi- in particular those houses, boutiques and cles to their limits specializing in land- cafés in the medieval (www.lemans.org). “24 Heures du Mans” based systems. heart of the city. Place Plumereau in Tours Seafood and Crepes Delights

BECAUSE OF its long stretches of coastline, north- western France specializes in seafood dishes. Crustaceans and shellfish like lobster, mussels, crab, and oysters take the spot- light. Other kinds of fruits de Crêpes are a regional specialty of Brittany. Crêperies serve mer, such as scallops and cray- these round, flat pancakes with everything from eggs, cheese, and fish, are also on the menu. ham to chocolate, bananas, and whipped cream. Famous Crêpes Seafood is typically laid on a bed Suzettes are flavored with oranges and Grand Marnier liqueur. of ice and seaweed and served with a light crisp white wine Langoustines called Muscadet, fresh rye bread, and butter. Shellfish can also be served in a beurre blanc sauce made from butter, wine, and shallots. The region is also known for its tender meats: lamb, chicken, duck, and ham. Le Mans is famous for its rillettes, a specialty made from pork or goosemeat seasoned with herbs, cooked in lard, and pounded into a pâté. Another popular dish of the region is the age-old boudin noir. The oldest kind of prepared charcuterie in Making Crêpes France, boudin is a dark-colored sausage made from pig's blood: it Boudin Noir Make Your Own Crêpes! is fried or grilled and served with potatoes and apples. Ingredients (makes twenty 9-inch crêpes): The rich, creamy milk of the region’s cows is used to produce one of the most famous cheeses in 4 large eggs France, Camembert. The name of this 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons milk lightly salted cheese comes from the tiny village in Normandy where it was first 2 cups flour, sifted eaten in the 18th century. Other region- 1 tablespoon sugar al cheeses include Pont L'Evêque, a soft, square, pale-yellow cheese that has been ¼ teaspoon salt made since the 13th century, Livarot, a Camembert 6-7 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted spicy, strong-smelling cheese, and a goat cheese called Crottin de Chavignol. 2-3 tablespoons vegetable oil An abundance of apple orchards provide the In a medium bowl, whisk together eggs and 2 cups apples for Tarte Tatin, an milk. Whisk in the flour, sugar, and salt and then 1/4 cups upside-down tart made (4 tablespoons) melted butter. Refrigerate covered, 1 to 1 with caramelized apples. and a half hours. Remove from refrigerator and whisk Apples are again. Batter should have the consistency of heavy cream. also used in If too thick, add remaining 1 or 2 tablespoons milk as nec- the produc- essary. Heat a 9-inch skillet and brush with a little oil and tion of hard butter. Using 1/4-cup ladle, ladle batter into the skillet and cider, a spe- swirl around, coating the entire surface of the pan, pouring cialty of north- the excess batter back into the bowl. Tarte Tatin west France. Over medium heat, cook until crêpe is Distilled cider is made into an apple brandy called golden brown on one side, 30 or 40 seconds. Calvados, which can be used as a mid-meal palette- With a spatula and/or fingers, turn crêpe and cleanser. Breton chouchen (pictured on the left)is cook until golden brown on second side. another drink that is sometimes made from cider, Repeat with remaining butter, oil, and batter Press &Information Office, although it is more commonly a combination of fer- until all the batter is used. Embassy of France mented honey, spices, and water. March 2006 Celebrating Celtic Culture

THE PEOPLE of northwestern France celebrate their culture The beautiful landscapes and through several festivals. The most famous are the Fest Noz (night fes- vibrant culture of northwestern tivals) of Brittany, which consist of eating, drinking, and dancing in a large France have attracted many famous barn or hall. As regional bands play Celtic music on instruments such as French painters over the years. the bignou (similar to bagpipes) and the oboe-like bombard, people Artists like Paul Gauguin flocked to move their feet to the sim- the wooded estuary of Pont-Aven ple steps of traditional in the late 19th century. Tourists can Breton circle dances. The still see the Japanese bridge and Interceltique Festival of waterlilies that inspired the paint- Lorient is a celebration of ings of Claude Monet in his garden music and dance where “Le Jardin de Monet, Les Iris” in the Norman village of Giverny. musicians from all over the Celtic world come togeth- THELEGENDOFANKOU er to celebrate their com- mon identity (www.festi- Ankou (also known as the Grim Reaper)is a character in Bignou players at the Festival Interceltique (Lorient) val-interceltique.com). Breton folklore. He is a dark, sinister figure, wearing a black Other music festivals include "Les Accroche-Cœurs" in robe and a hat that covers his face. Here is the legend of how Angers (www.angers.fr/accrochecoeurs), an outdoor celebration Ankou got his job as the collector of the dead: with street theater, circuses, dancing, music, and movies; and "La Once upon a time, there was an angry and jealous prince Folle Journée" in Nantes, a weekend of high-quality concerts, who loved to hunt. He and his friends were after a white stag theater, and film (www.follejournee.fr). Another kind of cultural in the forest when they festival takes place in Brest, France's premier naval port, which came across a massive figure hosts over 2,000 ships from all over the world every four years at dressed in black, atop a its Maritime Festival, as well as replicas of old ships and exhibits white horse. Angry that the on maritime culture (www.brest2008.fr). stranger was on his land, the prince challenged him: DEAUVILLEAMERICANFILMFESTIVAL whoever could kill the white For 30 years, the Festival of stag would decide the fate American Film in the beautiful of the other huntsman. To beach town of Deauville has the shock of the prince, the celebrated the wide spectrum of stranger shot the arrow that American film genres. Its inde- killed the stag. The arrogant pendent film competition has prince ordered his men to brought together both French kill the stranger, but the and American movie-goers and stranger just laughed and actors, including Harrison Ford, said, "You can have the stag who has attended seven times The famed beach umbrellas of Deauville and all the dead of the (www.festival-deauville.com). world. Your joy is hunting? Hunt then! Your trophies will be found across battlefields and Catholicism is also an important part of regional life. In Brittany, hearth, huntsman.” ceremonies called pardons are held between April and September to honor local saints. The name pardon comes from the earlier church practice of granting indulgences to absolve sins. The pardons of Sainte Anne d'Auray and Sainte Anne-la-Palud still attract thousands of pil- To learn more about the Northwest: grims who carry banners and holy relics through the streets. The language and dress of Brittany reflect its unique heritage French Tourist Office and historic isolation. Traditional clothes include lace hats— www.franceguide.com coiffes—which differ by region, embroidered aprons and wooden Tel: +1 (514) 288-1904 clogs. Elderly Breton women can sometimes still be seen wearing tall, cylindrical coiffes called bigoudens. Many Bretons still dress in Or try these specific sites: traditional garb for weddings and religious festivals. Many also con- www.brittanytourism.com tinue to speak their language, Breton, which has ancient Celtic roots. During the mid-20th century, a standardized form of Breton www.loirevalleytourism.com was created to promote the language's literary development, and A Bigoudène (Breton www.normandy-tourism.org today this form is taught in the area's schools. woman wearing a bigouden)