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Founded in 2008, the Exploring Foundation (501(c)3) supports public education and outreach in western . The foundation oers year-round programming for school groups and other organizations, €eld and laboratory opportunities, summer camps, and special events. In the past year EJF programs reached over 4,000 people including more than 1500 visitors to the developing Catawba Meadows Archaeological Interpretive Center.

Map from “The Expeditions,” by Charles Hudson.

Working to involve the public in Berry site excavations. Commemorating Native American communities and the Juan Pardo expeditions.

Catawba Meadows Archaeological Interpretive Center. 450th Anniversary of the Pardo Expeditions The Exploring Joara Foundation is planning an 18 month commemoration of the Juan Pardo Expeditions.

Local events from Parris Island, S.C., to east , December 2016-May 2018. A celebration to commemorate these earliest diplomatic relations between Native peoples and the Spanish colonials. Events that celebrate and commemorate the 16th-century Native American communities and those Native populations that remain in the Carolinas and Tennessee today. Events will include reenactors including membors of the Catawba Nation and the Eastern Band of the Indians. Completion of new archaeology museum at Catawba Meadows Recreation Park. Catawba Meadows Archaeological Interpretive Center, Morganton, NC Catawba Meadows Recreation Park is owned and operated by the City of Morganton Parks and Recreation Department. The city has granted the Exploring Joara Foundation a long-term lease on two locations: one for the outdoor interpretive center and the second, a preexisting building within the park for the museum. The park is a major recreation center for the region hosting tens of thousands of visitors each year. Construction on the outdoor interpretive center is already underway following the successful completion of a $150,000 capital campaign. As construction proceeds on the interpretive center, EJF plans to embark on a $300,000-$400,000 capital campaign to rehab the existing park building and install the archaeological museum and EJF o#ce. The Catawba Meadows facilities will allow EJF to interpret the Juan Pardo expeditions, 16th-century Native American life, , and western North Carolina regional archaeology. Catawba Meadows will serve as a focal point for the EJF highway marker trail across western North Carolina and will link Pardo’s route with Santa Elena. Location of future archaeology museum and EJF o#ce.

Pardo’s forts and Native Villages visited 1566-1568 1500 school children visitors Fort San Pedro 19 20 Fort San Juan 16 Fort San Pablo 18 15 Fort Santiago 14 26 22 21 17 25 23 24 13

12 11 10 27 9 28 8 Fort San Tomás 7

6

5 4 3 2 Fort Nuestra Señora 1 Fort San Felipe The Berry Site: The Location of Joara, Cuenca, and Fort San Juan The Exploring Joara Foundation helps to engage the public in the ongoing archaeological investigations of the Berry site with tours, workshops, and other opportunities including sponsorship of an annual !eld day that brings 500-1000 visitors to the site. The archaeological project is directed by Dr. David Moore (Warren Wilson College), Dr. Robin Beck (University of Michigan), and Dr. Christopher Rodning (Tulane University). Research at the Berry site has revealed evidence of the 16th-century Native town of Joara, !ve burned buildings occupied by Pardo’s soldiers (Cuenca), and in 2013, the !rst clear evidence of Fort San Juan, currently the only one of Pardo’s interior forts to have been identi!ed archaeologically.

See following magazine articles about Berry site archaeology.

Left: Field school students document remains of one of !ve burned Spanish buildings. Top: Soil colors reveal the southwest corner of the !lled-in ditch or moat surrounding Fort San Juan. Above: The Berry site !eld school annually attracts 40-50 students from around the country. The following are a selection of magazine articles about the Berry site from 2006-2014.

Smithsonian, March 2006, “ Makes a Stand”

American Archaeology, Spring 2008, “Contact and Conflict”

Archaeology, July/August 2009, “Spain’s Appalachian Outpost”

Our State, December 2013, “A City, Beneath”

Discover, January 2014, “Lost Spanish Fort Finally Revealed”

New York Times, July 22, 2013, “Fort Tells of Spain’s Early Ambitions”

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Crcwmembers Meriltt Sanders and Cilcket Hefner excavate the heafth at the center of Structare 7.They discovered an unburned piece ot wood that may represent a portion of a tool handle along with the charued pieces of burned fitewood.

Elena-as well as their indiscretions with native women, the short term,Joara seems to have benefited from the Pardo eventually soured their relationship with the natives. Histori- expedition." cal accounts also tell of the destruction of the fort and the Nonetheless, political changes could have also contrib- escape ofthe lone soldier. uted to Joara's demise, according to Moore. By their mere The archaeologists can only guess what transpired."One presence, the Spanish could have affected the balance of scenario we could see was if there had been a surprise attack power between various native groups in the area. Another on the soldiers," Moore speculated. But the small number of of the many consequences of Contact was the decimation artifacts in Structure 5, the only building that's been com- of native populations by European-borne diseases such as pletely excavated, appears to argue against that scenario. If smallpox, against which the natives'immune systems were soldiers residing in Structure 5 had been taken by surprise defenseless. European diseases may have wreaked havoc at by the nativ€s, the archaeologists assume they would have Joara, but the archaeologists need much more evidence to found an aft:fact scatter reflecting the soldiers'panicked be certain of that. response. "Everphing on the floor would have still been "something disrupted what seemed to be a very effi- there," said Moore. Instead, "the arca appears to be swept cient polity that was viable for a century," Moore said. He clean before it was burned." Rodning said the archaeologists and his colleagues hope to identifii what that something hope to solve this mystery by excavating the other burned was. But despite the several unanswered questions, Beck buildings "to clarify whether they were built for the same said that one thing is clear: though its colonial enterprise purposes and activities as Structure 5, and whether these conquered the formidable Aztec and Inca empires, "Spain other structufes were cleaned out before they were burned failed to actually embed its tentacles into" the interior of down or not." the American Southeast. A separate, but perhaps related mystery is the ultimate journalist,editor,and fate of Joara.As yet, there is no evidence that native peoples C0NSTANCE E. RICHARDS is a author based inAshevil/e, were living in the upper Catawba Valley afler the mid-l7th North Carolina, r,vho writes for TIME Magazine and other publications. century. "something led to the abandonment of the area," Beck said. "Not Juan Pardo himself...the Spanish may have To learn mole about the Belry site excavation, visit the boosted Joam's local standing-gaining military capital. In Web site www.wanen-wilson.edu/-atch sPring ' 2963

Our State December 201 3

Pottery and other SPanish artifacts unearthed at the site are providing clues about life in North Carolina before the Lost Colony.

##dre years The Spanish Lead balls Over the The Spanish When the This hand- gave fired from an Moore has found copper to American wrought nail settlers cut arquebus an bits of a blue aglets, Indians got is about 21/z iron knives - make muzzle- majolica medicine hold of copper inches long, like this one to early which they gun jar used to store brought by the and is typical the American loaded - used to helP the salves (top), and Spanish, they of ones the lndians suggest tie laces on of a jar in Spanish used Spanish settlers shards garments sonretrmes which the Spanish repurposed to build offerings. felt a need ano snoes. stored olive oil. the rnetal into their fort. themselves. arrowheads.

landowners Swannanoa, Moore is everY bit the several sites, but many dig on their archaeologist a lanky rtran in his 50s turned down his request to - were wearing jeans, btlots, and a f'aded blue property. James and Pat Berry mechanic's shirt. l,t-rng strands of hair alnong the few who said Yes' frame a weather-beaten f'ace urlder a Moore is still here. Every summer. .f'he broad-brirnmed hat. answers are Braving heat, heavy rain, and thunder knowl- in the soils, he says, stooping to scrapc to slowly fill in the gaPs of Carolina before the the grt-,urrd with a trotrel. Hc rcrcals a edge about North sandy-colored outline a few yards wide Lost Colony. in the middle of a trench of dark mud' Since 2001, David Moore andhis have led a summer 'Ib rnost people, the trench lo<.rks like Spanish herita$e colleaglres at the language feels new to the archaeological freld school a sand castle. But r\{oore The Spanish well-groorued site, which allows students to Carolina foothills. But its speak- sees the outline of a tnoat. North experience a dig fi rsthand' known Moore has been digging and scrap- ers have made their presence - The E>rploringi Joara Foundation 'fhat's newsstand at the the school and is also ing these fields since 1986' when, fromLaNoticia on the sponsors to the garage on working on a public archaeology site as a doctoral student at the University Morganton Food Lion at the Catawba Meadows Parkin (.hapel he sct Cr-rllege Street converted into a store' <-,f North Carolina at Hill. Morganton. It will include replieas "I'ienda La Esperanza.That out to prove that A.merican Indians had y Tbrtilleria of Catawba Indian town buildings For lived and farmed herc in the rich bot- last word, espefanza' means "hope." and living history demonstrations. from and For more informatio& visit tornlands t-rf the upper Catawba Vblley 20 years now, migrants exploringjoara.org. in the 16th century. He'd searched Guatemala have come to the fo

5 8 Our State December 20'l 3 seeking a better life on the poultry farms and in the fur- rid niture factories that once covered the landscape. Jbdav. qu about 16 percent of Morganton's population ;s Hirprnic. in Long before the English language made its way here, of the voices of Spanish soldiers echoed through the hills. They came here from Santa Elena, on what is now Parris Spt Island in , where the Spaniards had recendy out set up colonial operations after ousting the French from Sar Charlesfort. Gov. Pedro Menendez ordered an expedition EIe through the interior to open a route to Spanish colonies in Her Mexico. More than 120 men in armor with their menac- I ing dogs and matchlock muskets marched along ancient wTo trading trails from town to to*in. They carried litde food in tl and relied on the townspeople along the way. Their leader, hills Juan Pardo, read a prepared speech at each stop, declaring takil the natives subjects of Spain. It's not clear how much, if any, the tribes understood ofthe Indian language spoken Unc by the translatoq a French boy named Rufin, whom the Rob Spaniards had captured at Charlesfort. for h The men had hopes of their own. lfopes for silver back and gold and the favor of the king. The men moved far- inter ther inland up the ever-larger foothills until they saw dre Gern

60 Our State December 2013 J-

Before his name to the town Morganton' was a Morgan, who rent those mountains, they believea, mills' ridgeline. Beyond th" fl"ted farms and hosiery .f nn..r.o.'eor.h" li;;;;nt mounds around the area' ooi.k roor" to the silver *ir", P"opl" ;;;about the Indian They came ;;h; t;" in the distance looked foreboding. a century and a half of ofJoaraanddecidedtostopforthe-il.",:-Theyu"ro,.g.a.otheloose-knittribesalongtheriver*tro, *""i"n""d by war, disease"and started off peaceful. The as the catawba Relations with the Ir.iiur* *rrn. rJ,o"*"nt, banded together built,ror,lr.a ,o*" intensive hear- ate well. p_a. men But Beck doesn't remember Spaniards ""Jr-rrs ,rr*"J it Fort Nation i"',rr. -ia-rz0Os' He th" of the town. schoolin the 1970s and 1980s' outbuildings "dg" ing much nioot ttt"* in "t n".do ,"por."d'r"y rr".i a" s""" and forests' by picking San After a ** -"*, iu the fierds Juan. ,n" roii ;;;;r.. r"i.ned *.r. dis- around 30 ;." por."d "*roring of pottery' with each new Erena, leaving ". on *r.o*iira, i^a'a"g-""ts Public Library Moyano in charge. to ti" MtDo*ell County Hernando records' He to""ry' ft" *'t"a Moyano *l"rn't o,t" for keeping in archaeological tomes' Unlike Pardo, ,o *ua.t ia -ith the photos a letter there. He was morqinterested could find the exact same wrote a letter here and amaz'edme"' Beck says' "I b,;; in those "rt a neld in *d .;*iL rr"a rr*.d -:r: that I iust found in in the gold, ,ilrr"r, oil:"': 1".k Jn t"a'o *' n""s- hills. And that "f '":;l;" ffi1;:t"'1ffi*n:,?X from a very early age'" taking, and so important. ,,ft t oot"a me; it hooked me that an archaeologist s" B;;;;; excited when he heard Pat and uncle uncoveringthe past fr"- ch;;.i Hill pranned to work on his aunt in these foothins. The rand grants Moore dig at the Rob Beck has deep roots arr" nt"yt land' B"tk watched David U*rf" M.D"*"[;.;;rtJ, J"*"' he was looking for evi- for his family,s farms," ""a ,i... u..rJ n"t.iit t"""a what - rII in the earry 1770s. n"-, i-"1"* American Indian town' back to King George "r*"y, of a l"tgt 16th-t"ntury the Scots-Irish and dence a ."-.i"r"*. B.fo'" interest in arrowheads had become inrerested in what G";";Danier By r994,B"eck's early German seffrers. s"; Revolutionaryw".

ourstate.com 61 career. OneJanuary day,hewas poking around at the Ber4r site, Uprising dormantsinceMoore'sworkeightyearsbefore,whenhefound It's not clear why the Indians of Joara agreed to help the whatlooked like European pottery. Researchers confirmed the Spaniards, Moore says. The memory of ,s pottery as Spanish. Beck called up David Moore, who by then more violent expedition through the valley 20 years before hadbegunteachingatWarrenWilson.Moorehadfoundsome might have made them feel they had no choice. Or they European pottery during his Ph.D. days there, too, though might have believed they were entering into a long-term researchers had told him it was 18th-century Moravian. trading relationship. Whatever the reason, Moyano seems to The two men compared their finds an exactmatch. have forged -itwas an alliance of sorts with Chief Toara. The Indians helped him prospect for crystal and gold, and he provided the Indians with military protection. In spring 1567, Moyano even aided their NEW LOCATION. EASIER REACH. attack on the rival tribe across the mountains in present- day Tennessee. But by the end of the year, rela- tions between the Spaniards and the Indians g:rew tense. Pardo, who had returned to the valley from Santa Elena to colonize townships, heard rumors of Indian plots to resist. Some Spaniards observed that their country.rnen in the interior made unreasonable demands for food and had "indiscretions" with Indian women, angering local chiefs. In late November 1567, Pardo left Fort San Juan for the last time. By that spring, reports reached

At UNC Center for Rehabilitation Care, personalized treatment is our promise Santa Elena of an uprising and the to you.And at our new faciliry our comprehensive and interdisciplinary services destruction of interior forts. Only for ailults and children are now closer and more accessible. our preeminent one Spaniard survived the attack. rehabilitation team of physiatrists (physical medicine and rehabiliration physicians),neuropsychologists and therapists (occupational,physical and speech) Euphoria are here to help improve your function and qualiry oflife. our specialties include Since the discovery of Spanish pot- treatment persons of with: tery in 1994, Beck, Moore, and a host of other archaeologists have . Stroke . Sports Injury . Musculoskeletal & been gradually digging up new . Spinal Cord Injury . Acquired Brain Injury Neurological Conditions information about what happened . Cerebral Palsy . Spina Bifida . Difficulry adjusting during those 18 months more . Amputee to disability than four centuries ago. In the late 1990s, along with the late Thomas Begin yourjourney to recovery at the UNC Center for Rehabilitation Care. llargrove, they found evidence of the underground remains of four burned buildings where they now lJl'|[ CTl{TTA TOR RT}|ABI|.ITATIOl\| [ART believe the Spanish soldiers lived. 1807 N. FmdhamBlud (on 15/501 in thzJormu Borders Building) Chryel HilI, NC 27j14 Digging deeper, Moore and Beck, now joined by Tulane professor NO\ff OPEN Chris Rodning, have found glass @LINC beads, chain mail armor, olive jars,. HEATTH CARE uncrehabilitati oncare. org and wooden timbers all clues to 919.966.8812 REr{ABILI:TATION CARE daily life. -

62 OurState December 2013 Charlesfort' happened to be at This summer, the team set out to follow that outline of Santa Elena and the French looked the same as those light-colored soil. They thought it was the southern bound- the Berry site. He said the details ary of an Indian mound. On what was supposed to be the on the coastal forts. world," Beck says. last day of excavation inJuly, Beck says, they noticed the soil "That meant the team discovered an 1lr/z-foot- didn't curve where an Indian mound should' Tests showed More digging, and the the ground below was deeper than expected. wide, 6-foot-deep moat. when we tealized we had Chester DePratter, an archaeologist from the University "There was a lot of euphoria of South Carolina who had excavated the Spanish forts on what we thought we had," Beck saYs. Amysterystill' The discovery of the fort oPens new questions. Just how big was it? What happened within its walls? Did the Indians build a mound on top of the burned fort as a waY of reasserting their claim to the land? The team will spend the coming years looking for answers. Some answers we know. Moyano never found that gold' Pardo never returned to the inte- rior. The Spaniards abandoned Santa Elena in 1587, retreating to St. Augustine, Florida, and leaving Carolina coasts oPen for other colonial powers. That same year, English ships landed on . "Had [the Spaniards] been able to hold those forts for a few Years longer, they would have attacked the British when they landed," Moore says. 'Just as theY attacked the French." 2Y si?Whatif')'{F

Chuck McShane digs for" stories from his home in Dauidson.

The archaeological site is closed during the winter and early spring, but will reopen in June. For information on available dates to visit, go to exp lo ring joa ra.o rg.

ilAt'g*dr

64 Our State December 201 3 Lost Spanish Fort Finally Revealed | DiscoverMagazine.com http://discovermagazine.com/2014/jan-feb/29-lost-spanish-fort-finally-re...

TOP 100 STORIES OF 2013 #29

The archaeological find highlights how different the history of the United States could have been.

By Breanna Draxler | Wednesday, January 08, 2014

RELATED TAGS: ARCHAEOLOGY

Fort San Juan, 450 years later.

Warren Wilson College

Archaeologist Robin Beck has spent decades puzzling over the missing ruins of North Carolina’s Fort San Juan. Historical records show Spanish explorer Juan Pardo established the fort in 1566 to help build a road to silver mines in Mexico.

Yet in excavations, Beck could find no telltale evidence of bastions or — just the remains of five Spanish houses, inexplicably close to a Native American mound.

So Beck and colleagues trained magnetometers on the earthen mound, which revealed a startling contrast between the magnetic properties of the soil and unusual structural frames beneath it. By June, the archaeologists realized they’d stumbled on their buried treasure: the makings of a classic European fort, complete with a moat.

The 16th-century fortifications survived only a year and a half before a neighboring Mississippian tribe burned the Spanish settlement and killed all but one of the soldiers.

Had the fort lasted a little longer, or the soldiers stumbled upon the gold-laden creeks nearby, Beck conjectures, everything south of the Mason-Dixon Line could have been claimed by Spain: “The Spanish

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crown would have basically brought all the forces of colonialism right down on top of the Carolina Piedmont.”

[This article originally appeared in print as "Lost Spanish Fort Finally Revealed."]

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Could the South Have Gone to Spain?: John Wilford discusses newly uncovered Fort San Juan, a Spanish outpost dating back to the 1500s.

By JOHN NOBLE WILFORD Published: July 22, 2013

In the Appalachian foothills of western North Carolina, FACEBOOK

archaeologists have discovered remains of a 16th-century fort, the TWITTER earliest one built by Europeans deep in the interior of what is now MOST EMAILED RECOMMENDED FOR YOU GOOGLE+ the United States. The fort is a reminder of a neglected period in SAVE articles viewed recently wwcarchaeology colonial history, when Spain’s expansive ambitions ran high and 1 All Recommendations wide, as yet unmatched by England. EMAIL 1. In Need of Help, but Not the Emergency SHARE If the Spanish had succeeded, Robin Room A. Beck Jr., a University of Michigan PRINT Multimedia 2. archaeologist on the discovery team, REPRINTS On New Caledonia, a Lone Survivor suggested, “Everything south of the Mason-Dixon line might have 3. OP-ED CONTRIBUTOR become part of Latin America.” But Leave These Southwest Ruins Alone they failed. 4. Spain Orders Smaller Price Increase for Researchers had known from Spanish documents about Electricity the two expeditions led by Juan Pardo from the Atlantic 5. Big Spanish Labor Union Facing an coast from 1566 to 1568. A vast interior seemed open for Investigation on Misuse of Funding Connect With the taking. This was almost 20 years before the failure of Us on Social the English at Sir Walter Raleigh’s “lost colony” near the Media 6. For Valencia, Help May Come via North Carolina coast or their later successes in at Singapore @nytimesscience on Twitter. Jamestown in 1607 and at Plymouth Rock in 1620 — the Science Reporters “beginnings” emphasized in the standard colonial history 7. Sweets Made Only for Christmas Are and Editors on Twitter taught in American schools. Spanish Town’s Gift to Itself Like the science desk on Facebook. One of Pardo’s first acts of possession, in early 1567, was Enlarge This Image building Fort San Juan in an Indian town almost 300

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miles in the interior, near what is known today as the Go to Your Recommendations » Great Smoky Mountains. It was the first and largest of six What’s This? | Don’t Show forts the expedition erected on a trail blazed through North and South Carolina and across the mountains into eastern Tennessee. At times Pardo was following in the footsteps of Hernando de Soto in the 1540s.

Pardo’s orders were to establish an overland road to the An archaeologist working near Morganton, N.C., in a section of the silver mines in Mexico, on the mistaken assumption that defensive moat of the earliest fort built the Appalachians were the same mountain chain that ran by Europeans. through central Mexico. No one then had a sure handle on the near and far of New World geography. Even the Utah judge unexpected as a hero written records of the de Soto expedition beyond the River did not seem to to gay people clarify matters; they did not come with maps. Also on NYTimes.com Democrats turn to minimum wage as 2014 strategy After years of searching, archaeologists led by Dr. Beck, Christopher B. Rodning of Official who oversaw health law's rollout is retiring Tulane University in New Orleans and David G. Moore of Warren Wilson College in Asheville, N.C., came upon what they described in interviews as clear evidence of the fort’s defensive moat and other telling remains of Fort San Juan. The discovery in late June was made five miles north of Morganton, N.C., at a site long assumed to be the location of an Indian settlement known as Joara, where military artifacts and burned remains of Spanish-built huts were also found.

While excavating a ceremonial Indian mound at the site, the archaeologists Ads by Google what's this? encountered different colored soil beneath the surface. Part of the fort’s defensive moat had been cut through the southern side of the mound. Dr. Beck said that further Kingsmill Resort Virginia excavations and magnetometer subsurface readings showed that the moat appeared to Conveniently Located Near extend more than 70 to 100 feet and measured nearly 12 feet wide and 6 feet deep, in a Top Attractions in Williamsburg. configuration “typical of European moats going back to the Romans.” www.kingsmill.com Other remote sensing surveys showed subsurface anomalies suggesting burned timbers of the palisades and an irregularity that may well be ruins of the “strong house” inside, where tools, weapons and lead shot were stored. Investigating these artifacts is on the agenda for next summer’s excavations, Dr. Beck said.

Chester B. DePratter, an archaeologist at the University of South Carolina who is an authority on Spanish exploration in the Southeastern United States, happened to be at the Joara site as an independent observer when the discovery was made.

“I am certain that they have found the long lost Fort San Juan,” Dr. DePratter said last week. “The coming years, as the moat and blockhouse inside are excavated, will be quite exciting.”

The discovery was significant, he added, because it emphasized the Spanish advance deep into the interior by 1566, long before “the English built a fort as far inland as Fort San Juan, much less as far west as the near Knoxville” — which was “well into the 17th century.”

None of the other Pardo forts have been found. Spanish records report that about 18 months after Fort San Juan’s construction, Indians in the region rebelled and put the torch to them all, killing all but one of the soldiers in the garrisons. Pardo, who had returned to his base at Santa Elena on the coast at present-day Parris Island, S.C., lived to return home to Spain.

The provocation for the Indian uprising is not clear, though Dr. Beck noted that “food and sex were probably two of the main reasons” for destroying the Spanish settlements.

Although the soldiers prospected for gold around Fort San Juan, they never found any. Yet Dr. Beck noted that much later settlers scooped up nuggets near local rivers, setting off a gold rush before the 49ers of California. Had the people of Joara given Pardo’s soldiers time to discover gold, Dr. Beck speculated, Spain would probably have flooded the area with settlers “and everything changes and nearly everybody in the southeastern

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part of the country might be speaking Spanish today.”

This article has been revised to reflect the following correction:

Correction: July 24, 2013

Because of an editing error an article on Tuesday referred incorrectly to a 16th century fort discovered last month near Morganton, N.C. The fort is thought to be the first one built by Europeans in what is now the interior of the United States, not the first one built by Europeans in the Americas. The error was repeated in the headline.

This article has been revised to reflect the following correction:

Correction: July 25, 2013

A map with an article on Tuesday about the discovery of a 16th-century fort last month near Morganton, N.C., labeled incorrectly a state that borders Virginia to the west. It is Kentucky, not West Virginia.

A version of this article appeared in print on July 23, 2013, on page D3 of the New York edition with the headline: First New World Fort Was Spain’s.

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