Gastronomy and the Citron Tree

Prod:Type:FTP ED: 5þ model IJGFS : 42 pp:025ðcol:fig::NILÞ PAGN: SCAN:

Available online at www.sciencedirect.com International Journal of 1 Gastronomy and Food Science 3 International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science ] (]]]]) ]]]–]]] www.elsevier.com/locate/ijgfs 5 Scientiﬁc Paper 7 Q2 Gastronomy and the citron tree (Citrus medica L.) 9 a,1 b,2 Q1 Jean-Paul Brigand , Peter Nahon 11 Q4 Q3 aLugar Do Olhar Feliz, 7555-211 Cercal do Alentejo, Portugal b 13 École Nationale Des Chartes, 65 Rue De Richelieu, Paris 75002, France Received 15 December 2015; accepted 16 March 2016 15

17 Abstract 19 In the area of primary domestication, the fruit of the citron tree (Citrus medica L.), and to a limited extent its leaf and flower, have traditionally been used as a raw condiment, candied, or more rarely, salted. In the area of secondary domestication – the hot Mediterranean climate – culinary 21 uses multiplied during an active phase of cultivar development in the 10 to 16th centuries. In the 19th century, citron products were widely used in the gastronomy of Northern Europe, mainly in sweet dishes. 23 The establishment and dissemination by the Tintori nursery in Tuscany of a remarkable collection of citron trees and, later, the appearance on markets of the fingered ‘Buddha's Hand’ cultivar revived interest in citron tree products. Initial results from a methodical examination of their 25 current culinary applications reveal a positive contribution to savoury cuisine as a result of contemporary cooking, maceration and extraction techniques. Cultivars are selected specifically for these different uses. The use of steam extraction to create “citron floral water” (hydrosol) is 27 promising. & 2016 AZTI-Tecnalia. Production and hosting by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license 29 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/).

Q6 Keywords: Citrus medica; Citron; Gastronomy; History of cuisine; Fruit domestication; Mediterranean cuisine 31

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35 Introduction technologies the citron definitely has a wide range of new 61 applications. 37 The Citron (Citrus medica L. or Citrus medica cedra Ferr.) is 63 the Cinderella of citrus gastronomy despite having been the first Gastronomic uses in the domestication areas from the 39 citrus fruit to spread far from its primo-domestication zone 65 (Tolkowsky, 1938). If the leaves, flowers and fruit have been beginning to the 19th century 41 used in the past, modern culinary research shows that it is far fl 67 from having achieved its potential. In light of actual gastronomic Early culinary uses of the leaf, ower and fruit of the citron tree 43 69 E-mail addresses: [email protected] (J.-P. Brigand), The four main uses of citron (Citrus medica L.) are as 45 [email protected] (P. Nahon). 71 1Jean-Paul Brigand has established collections of domesticated edible plants, an ornamental tree (Andrews, 1961) 47 mostly fruit trees, in the coastal Alentejo region of Southern Portugal. He has 73 one of Europe's finest collections of Mediterranean citrus trees. He researches a medicinal plant (Lanzoni, 1690) whose anti-inflammatory acclimatization, culinary uses and growing conditions and then organizes properties are proven (Kima et al., 2013) 49 production through the members of the “Frutos dos descobrimentos” group. a culinary plant and 75 2 Peter Nahon is a philologist and specialist in ancient agronomic writings. a liturgical fruit (Scora, 1975). 51 Through a comparative approach to ancient writings, informed by rigorous 77 linguistic methodology, he exploits the techniques of ancient times to achieve In the Western world, the inclusion of the citron in the lulab, 53 excellence today, in agriculture and in cuisine. 79 Peer review under responsibility of AZTI-Tecnalia. the ritual bouquet used for the Jewish holiday of Sukkot, is a

55 http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijgfs.2016.03.001 81 1878-450X/& 2016 AZTI-Tecnalia. Production and hosting by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license 57 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/).

Please cite this article as: Brigand, J.-P., Nahon, P., Gastronomy and the citron tree (Citrus medica L.). International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science (2016), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ijgfs.2016.03.001 IJGFS : 42

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1 tradition likely adopted by the Jews from the Mesopotamians The Mediterranean: second domestication area – late 59 who, according to Nabatean Agriculture,3 a Late Antiquity appearance of a cuisine using the fruit and flower of the citron 3 treatise cited by Ibn al-ʻAwwām,4 believed the citron repre- tree 61 sented purity. Its use in this ritual ensured that there was strong 5 homogeneity among cultivars (Nicolosi, 2005). According to During the middle ages and at the beginning of the 63 Isaac (1959), it contributed to the wider use of the citron in Renaissance period, the Mediterranean region and the Arabian 7 Mediterranean cuisine: candied citron has been documented in Peninsula were an active secondary domestication area. To the 65 the Jewish communities of North Africa. In 17th century Italy extent that “the citron tree presents very little gene diversity 9 candied citron was preserved and presented in the hărōset, the due to strong homozygosity and weak polymorphism between 67 . ” fruit dish served at Passover, or at the festive meal on the 15th cultivars (Rocca Serra and Ollitrault, 1992), only a few 11 of Šebat (New Year of the Trees).5 hybrids and mutants appeared during this time of more 69 A fingered cultivar originally from Southern China, the frequent cultivation. In Seville in the 12th century, Ibn al- ā “ 13 ‘Buddha's Hand’ citron, has been also used as a ritual fruit, Aww m described a number of varieties: the Cordoba citron 71 placed on Buddhist altars. Due to its widespread distribution, is a large pointed fruit, the Qosty, large and smooth, the 15 Chinese citron as large as an eggplant, round and acidic…” 73 this citron has experienced a revival in Europe as a fashionable The author likely included under the term “citron” varieties exotic fruit (Brigand, 2010). 17 of the lemon with a thick mesocarp (which the Italians refer 75 The citron tree's first domestication area was the south- to as pane “bread”), a frequent occurrence until the 10th eastern section of the Eastern Himalayas with its subtropical 19 century. Raw and candied versions of the fruit were exported 77 climate and monsoons (Swingle and Reece, 1967). Wild types from al-Andalus to the north. In Egypt, the Kanz al-Fawâ'id were reported in Assam and Bhutan, with possibly acclima- 21 fî tanwi 10 provided a recipe for candying the fruit. L’Ano- 79 tized varieties in Yunnan, Vietnam and Thailand (Froelicher nyme Andalou,11 cited by Lucie Bolens (1990),mentions 23 et al., 2011) as well as in the Middle East (Chapot, 1963). The using the leaf of the citron tree (“used widely in Andalusian 81 fruit is still consumed fresh and candied in the region. The tree cuisine” according to Derenne 1999)inlambstew,inamint 25 migrated to the Southeastern Mediterranean through Mesopo- and borage drink, and in the Jewish recipe for chicken with 83 tamia in ancient times (Loret, 1891; Ramón-Laca 2003). It has fennel, garum, etc. 27 been attested in Egyptian digs dating to the 21st century BC Domestication of the citron and the development of cultivars 85 (Gallésio, 1811); Albertini (2013: 299) dates the citron tree's and hybrids continued until the 16th century. The diversity of 29 arrival in Egypt at around 1590 BC where it was grown only citrons (5 cultivars) can be seen in a 1715 painting by 87 marginally. The Babylonian Talmud (2nd century) mentions Bartolomeo Bimbi,12 depicting the Medici collection, which 31 its consumption in the Middle East stating that the citron contained the Mediterranean cultivars of the time. The collec- 89 symbolizes a wise man of visible and known value because “it tion was started by Cosimo I (1554–1568) and was at its best 33 has a pleasant scent and tastes delicious”6; it was eaten by under Cosimo III. 91 children at the end of the holiday of sukkot.7 Cuisine using the flower and fruit of the citron tree came 35 However, it appears that, in the Western world, the fruit of into its own during the Renaissance. In the 16th century, 93 the citron tree was valued primarily for its decorative rather Bartolomeo Scappi,13 chef to Pope Pius V (1500–1577), 37 than comestible features. The three citrium recipes provided by documented a variety of recipes with a notably Arab influence: 95 Apicius (1st century AD),8 in which citrium is often translated candied fruit (scorza di cedro e di melangole confette asciutte 39 by “citron”, should actually be treated as recipes for Calabaza and Polpa di cedro confetta asciutta), citron flowers in spices 97 squash (Cucurbitacea of the Lagenaria genus). The only true (Fiore de cedro conditi) or in a mixed salad (Fiori di cedro in 41 reference to the citron tree (citrus,-i) was to the use of its leaf insalata – menu 12, dish 12), and slices of fresh citron in a 99 (Folia citri) in an aromatic maceration, in this case, in a recipe recipe for roasted turkey or pheasant, served cold with sugar 43 for rose wine without roses.9 and small capers on citron slices marinated in sugar, salt and 101 rosewater. In 1593, there is also mention of a sweet/acidic 45 citron verjuice (Di Romolo Rosselli, 1996). 103 In the late 16th century, with the orange tree and orangeries 47 coming into fashion, the citron tree spread throughout Europe. 105 3This work exists only in an Arabic translation published by Fahd (1993). There is a wealth of iconography with its fruit,14 by such artists 4 ʻ ā fi ā 49 Ibn al- Aww m. Kitab al l ha [The book of agriculture] (Seville, 12th as Josefa de Òbidos (1630–1684) and Antonio de Pereda,15 in 107 Century), article 29, chap. VII (cited from Ibn al-Awwām (2000)). 5See also Marks (2010) for other mentions of Jewish culinary uses of the 51 citron. 10Kanz al-fawâ'id fî tanwî’al-mawâ'id [Treasury of good advice for prepar- 109 6Babylonian Talmud, tractate Menachot, 27a. ing the table], 10th century Egypt; recipe quoted by Zaouali (2010). 53 7Babylonian Talmud, tractate Succah, 4:3. 11Kitab al tabih fi al Maghieb was al-Ar Muwahidin [Anonymous 111 8Marcus Gavius Apicius. De re coquinaria, compilation from the late 4th Andalousian Manuscript] – see Bolens (1990). century, texts partially from the 1st century, Northern Italy. Cited from André 12Oil on canvas, 174 233 cm, Paggio a Caiano, Museo della Natura Morta. 55 (1974). 13Cited from Luccichenti and Di Schino (2008). 113 9The question of the Latin name for citrus will be the subject of a note by P. 14See Killermann (1916). 57 Nahon in the Revue des études latines to appear in late 2016. 15Still-Life with Fruit, 1650, Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, Lisbon. 115

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1 Portugal and with Dutch painters.16 In Paris under Louis XIII, Late 20th century: a more methodical approach to a fruit of 59 Cardinal de Richelieu (1582–1653) drank aigre de cédrat à la the future 3 Royale, an orange drink acidified with lime, sweetened with 61 honey and mulberry juice, and flavoured with the zest of the A better knowledge of the available cultivars 5 red citron (Savary and Savary, 1741). It is likely that the Arabs 63 in Andalusia used the fruit in alcoholic drinks or in infusions, a It was not until the second half of the 20th century that the 7 practice still followed in Calabria, Sicily and Corsica. Tintori family in Pescia, Italy,18 between Florence and the sea, 65 brought together the remainder of the Florentine collections 9 into what is today the most complete collection of citron trees 67 Modern cuisine: Northern European cuisine adopts the citron since the Medici: 13 Citrus limonimedica (the Institut national 11 de la recherche agronomique (INRA) lists 4 varieties available 69 Growing the citron tree is a delicate task as it is averse to in 2014) and 19 C. medica (INRA 7).19 The Tintori nomen- 13 cold winds, intense heat and especially to low temperatures. In clature for these plants has been adopted by such specialists as 71 the southern Mediterranean countries, the mesocarp is com- Niels Rodin, a grower/processor in the Riviéra Vaudoise, 15 monly used raw in salads or carpaccio, sweetened (frozen as a Switzerland. In this paper, we have included Tintori's cultivar 73 crunchy sorbet), candied and eaten directly or in pastries, in numbering to be precise. Many other varieties have been 17 liqueur, or as a dried zest or confit. In the rest of Europe, the identified: Cottin (2002) lists 193 known denominations 75 citron is used in cooking as either a confit or an essential oil, (including 157 cultivars of C. medica and 36 of C. limonime- 19 which is extracted mechanically from the green citron and dica), notably in Morocco (see also Chapot, 1950) although we 77 17 called “citron water” (eau de cédrat). never have been able to locate them there, let alone taste them. 21 In the 19th century, the fruit became available to the best The Tintori collection serves as the foundation for our 79 kitchens and the range of uses expanded. In 1839, the Count de systematic review of the uses of citron in modern cuisine. The 23 Courchamps (1839) listed 54 uses of citron in cooking, only collection contains the main types of citrons: the long, thin 81 one of which involved a savoury dish – the juice of the green ‘Moroccan’, the short, conical ‘Yemenite’, the bumpy ‘Braver- 25 citron on foie gras “at the time of serving”–and a few neutral man’, and the red and orange citrons. These fruits are easily 83 Q5 or acidic options – distilled citron water, aigre de cédrat (a transported, keep well and mature slowly on the tree with fresh 27 beverage, see “The Mediterranean: Second domestication area fruit available from late October to early spring in the northern 85 – late appearance of a cuisine using the fruit and flower of the hemisphere. The tree grows well in a sheltered southern 29 citron tree”), citron vinegar, and ravigote vinegar with citron exposure, in open fields, and along the southern coast of 87 zest. His list of 74 desserts contains 17 mentions of citron. The Portugal. The varieties with large fruit must be supported to 31 fruit and flower, but not the leaf, are used: ensure good development. 89 Certain cultivars have been excluded from this paper because Milano citron: fruit preserved in sugar and mustard; 33 of their disappointing flavour or texture or disagreeable bitter- 91 Citron peel or zest: rubbed on sugar to prepare citron ness. As an example, the ‘Robs el Arsa’ (26f) is not included 35 cookies, in whipped cream with four zests (orange citron because of its grainy peel and neither is the ‘Pigmentata’ (23). 93 and bitter orange, in madeleines,incrème royale with 37 citron(with eggs), in darioles à la Duchesse, in meringues, 95 in vanilla potato croquettes, in apple pudding with pista- 39 chios, in citron pudding, and in rice à la Dauphine; Use of the pericarp primarily 97 Citron confit, dried, candied, in marmalade, in Talladins, in 41 Baba à la Carême; in Chantilly de la Charlotte à la The citron's pericarp (its entire envelope of the fruit 99 Richelieu, and in fanchonettes with pistachios; including the mesocarp or albedo and the epicarp or zest) 43 Citron frosting/icing (bouchées or petits fours with citron), lacks both fats (lipids) and sugars (carbohydrates) but is high 101 on gruel, in pastries called Mirlitons, chopped citron in in fibre. The zest is rich in volatile flavonoid compounds (rutin 45 plum pudding, in moulded pudding, and in pudding à la and neohesperidin), limonene and gamma-terpinene (Venturini 103 parisienne; et al., 2014; Fleisher and Fleisher, 1991). The essential oil does 47 Citron syrup, citron liqueur not have a long-lasting aroma or offensive taste and therefore it 105 Sabayon, mousse, jellied, sorbet, citron ice is best to serve the zest at the beginning of the meal to best 49 Slices of citron on pigeon heart and cherry compote appreciate its properties. The mesocarp is not bitter in most 107 Citron flowers in citron flower ice cultivars. 51 Citron juice in ice, green tea cream and citron juice 109 Essence of citron in Chantilly mousse 53 In cream, in potatoes with citron cream 111 18Vivai Oscar Tintori, Via Tiro a segno 55, 51012 Castellare di Pescia (PT), 16Willem Kalf, Nature morte à l'aiguière d'argent (73,8 65,2 cm), 1655- Italy; see 〈http://www.oscartintori.it/〉 55 57, Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam. 19INRA varieties catalogue, 2014 (pdf), retrieved at: 〈https://inra-dam-front- 113 17Malisset (1803) gives an early account of making citron water in Nice, resources-cdn.brainsonic.com/ressources/afile/256687-b5fbc-resource-docu 57 Tuscany, Corfu, Greece, Thailand and India. ment-technique-catalogue-des-varietes-2014.html〉. 115

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1 The mesocarp (albedo) century in Murcia, Ibn Razin al-Tujîbi21 used the leaf of the 59 Chef Vincent Farges20 selected the ‘Etrog’ (29), ‘Diamante’ ‘Utrug’ (29) citron in a court bouillon for his daurade au miel 3 (27), ‘Maxima’ (32), ‘Mangiagli’ (26g) and ‘Buddha's Hand’ et au moût (bream with honey and must). For this use, the leaf 61 (28) cultivars and ranked the ‘Crispifolia’ (26a) first because of of the ‘Diamante’ cultivar was preferred because of its subtle, 5 the texture and taste of its albedo. (Recipes of Chef V. Farges: round flavour, while the leaf of the C. limonimedica ‘Perettone’ 63 sliced ‘Crispifolia’ citron with first beans, Moroccan mint and (22) hybrid was considered more interesting for olive oil with a 7 Galega olive oil – toasted flat bread; citron in cream flavoured citron leaf. 65 with paprika and oxalis.) 9 Jean-Paul Brigand tested several cultivars with eight The juice 67 random groups of people with differing taste experiences 11 and cultures. The groups were served slices of fresh fruit Citrons do not have much juice. Chef Pascal Meynard 69 consisting of the albedo and zest and slices consisting of extracts juice not just from the pulp but from the entire fruit – a 13 the albedo, zest and the acidic pulp. Based on these tests, sort of citron absolute. This juice is transformed into two ices 71 it was decided to cultivate in Portugal the ‘Crispifolia’ with different textures – one with agar and gelatine and the 15 (26a). It ripens from January to April. other with agar that is then spun. 73 Peter Nahon grows the ‘Temani’ (the Hebrew word for 17 ‘Yemenite’) as an indoor plant in France (Nahon, 2015). The flower: the wonder of citron floral water 75 This cultivar from Yemen has almost no pulp and the 19 albedo is of excellent quality. ‘Peretonne’ (22) hybrid, Since citron flowers are difficult to transport, the decision 77 which has relatively small fruit, is not included here was made to process them as a hydrosol (citron floral water) 21 although its albedo is very edible and has an excellent through steam extraction. 79 texture. ‘Pompia’ (26b) is the best cultivar for this use because its 23 Working with the ‘Maxima’ (32) cultivar, Chef Vincent produces large flowers in clusters. The citron floral water 81 Farges uses the uncooked pericarp, albedo and pulp and reduces obtained (1 kg of flowers for 1 l of hydrosol) is quite different 25 them to a paste that looks like mustard and is made like a from orange floral water, being more vegetal and better suited 83 wasabi paste. It is served with white meat. He uses the to use in vegetable or fish dishes. 27 ‘Buddha's Hand’ variety in carpaccio: “Buddha's Hand, supions, Chefs Hans Neuner22 and Leonardo Pereira23 use citron floral 85 dried tomatoes”. water in green salads. The first flavours his light vinaigrettes 29 with it and the second uses it as follows: “lettuce dish as a first 87 Epicarp (zest): a wide range of uses course of our tasting menu with the Cedrat Hydrolat. I basically 31 The zest has always been used in savoury dishes and with egg compress a few varieties of lettuce in the hydrolat and cook 89 preparations such as pasteis de nata (a citron flan “pastel de them briefly while still compressed. It is served with the roots of 24 33 nata” chez A. Passard). Today, it is found more frequently in the lettuce, red currants and a milk of raw pine nuts”. 91 omelettes, soufflés, bread, foie gras with citron jelly or baking 35 (Chef Vincent Farges: duck foie gras, glazed with soy, seaweed Conclusion: extensive opportunities for creative cuisine 93 and ‘Etrog’ citron (29)). 37 The raw zest is used in sous vide (vacuum) maceration and In modern cuisine, the products of citron tree offer an 95 is especially interesting in dry maceration: dried figs sous vide aromatic palette and original textures. It is used sustainably 39 with citron zest for 1 month. This type of dry sous vide because it meets demands for healthy food and responsible 97 maceration can be applied to all dried fruits and to cheeses. cuisine (good conservation, easy to transport, easy to use fresh, 41 The zest is well suited to sous vide cooking for short periods of no waste, very rarely allergy-generating, no known medical 99 time, particularly with fish. To avoid the zest becoming bitter contra-indication). The tree is part of a long cooking tradition: 43 when cooking for longer periods, it should first be blanched typical of the vocabulary of Mediterranean tastes and scents, it 101 1–3 times. has become easy to work with partly thanks to the Tintori 45 For cooked zest, Chef Pascal Meynard prefers the ‘Maxima’ nursery's collection. Moreover, today's growing techniques 103 (32) with its smooth peel: confit with salt (brine) and herbs – with grafted plants and biological pest control in insect proof 47 bay, pepper, coriander and fennel seeds – sous vide at 55 1C environments or with the use of fabric fruit bags make it 105 for 3 h. possible to produce fruit without pesticides. 49 Our research shows that the pericarp is well suited to current 107 The leaf cooking techniques including steam, sous vide, maceration and 51 109 21Razin al-Tujîbî Fadhâlat al-khiwan fi tayyibât al-ta-âm wa-l-alwâm, The leaf is used in liquid maceration like a bay or boldo leaf. 53 Murcia, Spain, 12th century; cited by Zaouali (2010) and Ashtor (1968). 111 This is a very traditional use of citron leaves. In the 13th 22Hans Neuner, Ocean Restaurant at Vila Vita Parc, Rua Anneliese Pohl, Alporchinhos, 8400-450 Porches, Portugal. 55 20Vincent Farges, executive chef, 2005–2015, Fortaleza do Guincho, Estrada 23Leonardo Pereira, 2015 executive chef, Areias do Seixo, Praceta do 113 de Guincho, 2750-642 Cascais, Portugal, and from 2015 at the Sandy Lane Atlântico, Povoa de Penafirme, 2560-046 A dos Cunhados, Portugal. 57 Resort, St. James, Barbados, West Indies. 24Private communication from L. Pereira to the author (2015). 115

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