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WILD PATAGONIA & CENTRAL CHILE: PUMAS, PENGUINS, CONDORS & MORE! NOVEMBER 2–17, 2017 One of the 8 Pumas seen! This is a hunting female Puma looking for Hares early am in Torres del Paine National Park — Photo: Andrew Whittaker LEADERS : ANDREW WHITTAKER & FERNANDO DIAZ LIST COMPILED BY : ANDREW WHITTAKER VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE , SUITE 1003 AUSTIN , TEXAS 78746 WWW .VENTBIRD .COM WILD PATAGONIA & CENTRAL CHILE NOVEMBER 2 –17, 2017 By Andrew Whittaker Wondrous Chile came up trumps again! We enjoyed a sensational second spring with a non stop array of exciting, easy birding (200 species) with a backdrop of stupendous world-class scenery, great mammals (16 species), and an amazing abundance of gorgeous wildflowers combined with super weather and scrumptious Chilean food! Life cannot get much better! We cleaned up on all the fantastic endemics and specialties and enjoyed yet another fabulous year of Pumas galore (last year 7 cats, this year 8)! Wild Patagonia rewarded us with the wonderful antics of an active King Penguin colony and its cute chicks, and we nailed so well the much-wanted Magellanic Plover, too. Other birding highlights included classing all the exciting, colourful, and often very confiding tapaculos, killer views of the huge and astounding Magellanic Woodpecker and immense Andean Condor, close views of the rarely seen Pudu (the world’s smallest deer), and much more! The wonderful increasing King Penguin colony on Tierra del Fuego— Photo: Andrew Whittaker Chile is almost like a European country and well worth visiting for its abundant wildlife alone, but also to experience the incomparable Andean and Patagonian scenery, especially at the famous Torres del Paine National Park (often described as the 8th Wonder of the World) or crossing the famous Straits of Magellan to visit Tierra del Fuego, “the land of fire,” and its stunning steppes and famous wildlife. Wow, Chile simply rocks and is a must to visit for any nature lover, as well as for the superlative Chilean food and famous wines! Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 Our spectacular hotel Hosteira Pehoe, Torres del Paine National Park— Photo: Andrew Whittaker Our NEW action-packed tour again surpassed my greatest expectations! We began on a high note in the delightful Andean slopes outside Santiago, scoring on a quick couple of cool endemics: first, the great sounding White-throated Tapaculo, and then we nailed two endemics —the Dusky-tailed Canastero and the Chilean Tinamou (a high record of 7 Tinamous seen)! We marveled over the enigmatic endemic Moustached Turca scratching around in its towhee-like mode, gathering food for its young, against a fine backdrop of millions of poppies. This year the spring flowers were to-die-for, a vibrant kaleidoscope of colors and hues; we enjoyed great studies of not one but 3 different colorful Puya bromeliads. For lunch we arrived at a wonderful restaurant with a panoramic view of the snow-capped peaks of Valle Nevado (the valley of snow); here we had our first soaring Andean Condors of the day. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 Endemic and enigmatic Moustached Turca with such a great song — Photo: Andrew Whittaker After a great meal we continued upwards past blue-hued mountain streams for another exciting stop, which produced a gorgeous male White-sided Hillstar that put on a great display of its fantastic colors, a very confiding Austral Pygmy-Owl, and good studies of an array of miners, Chilean Flicker, canasteros, sierra-finches, and flocks of Greater Yellow- Finches. Finding an almost certain as yet unnamed tapaculo singing on a rock at 3,000m surrounded by snow was my highlight, as snow flakes fell! Not to forget three exciting mammal highlights: a very neat-looking Culpeo Fox; the endemic Fence Degu; and hysterical observations of a colony of active Coruro (an all black groundhog look-alike with long yellow canines) as they were doing spring cleaning and digging out their burrows, popping up and down at their entrances reminiscent of floating black corks amongst waves! A lovely, very confiding Culpeo Fox — Photo: Andrew Whittaker Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 The next day found us traveling south on wonderful modern freeways. We passed through the rich central valley, a famous wine producing area, with stunning snow-capped peaks to our left forming the backbone of this lovely country. At our next stop we enjoyed flocks of exotic Burrowing Parrots displaying their glorious colors as they commuted back and forth to nesting burrows in the river bank! We even had several land above our heads and put on an amazing show of behavior! Our search for the magnificent Torrent Duck rewarded us with great scope views of a lovely black-bellied male. We also enjoyed a neat couple of pairs of cool-looking and extremely localized Spectacled Ducks. Spectacular Andean peaks loomed in the distance as we climbed through the scenic forested slopes of Southern Beech to arrive at our comfortable forested lodge on the edge of the magnificent Altos de Lircay National Park. Here we enjoyed the late evening in the lovely gardens with White-throated Treerunner, Thorn-tailed Rayadito, Patagonian Sierra- Finch, and the Firecrowns on the hummingbird feeders before being treated like kings to a great family-prepared banquet! The amazing male Green-backed Firecrown is well named! — Photo: Andrew Whittaker Nonstop action the next day in these stunning old growth Nothofagus forests, home to one of the world’s classiest woodpeckers, the Magellanic, of which we managed breathtaking views. Forest floors were home to delicate white orchids as the wondrous songs of the highly sought after Chestnut-throated Huet-huet echoed through the valleys. After some hard work, we managed great views of this dramatic beast of a tapaculo! Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 Endemic terrestrial orchid Callus Chloraea (Chloraea cristata ) — Photo: Andrew Whittaker Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 6 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 Inviting well-kept forested trails rewarded us with Striped Woodpecker, Chilean Pigeon, and a rarely seen closely perched adult White-throated Hawk (that ignored our excitement below) with crippling scope studies! After our scrumptious picnic we found the extraordinarily colored Green-tailed Tree Iguanas. From vantage points within the park we also marveled over the backdrop of the magnificent cordillera of San Clemente and its towering snow-capped peaks. A real highlight was finding a roosting Rufous-legged Owl, a real stunner that we all enjoyed studying in the scope. White-throated Hawk adult, rarely seen perched and extremely confiding — Photo: Andrew Whittaker Migrating south from Santiago we flew to the lovely coastal city of Puerto Montt, founded in 1853 during German colonization. Picture-perfect snow-capped Volcanoes Osorno and Calbuco greeted our arrival. After a short drive we were birding the rich coastline, as Lahuen Nadi National Park was closed. We enjoyed good looks at several shorebirds and waterfowl before our first Rufous-tailed Plantcutter enchanted all. The next day we visited another of Chile's fine national parks, and it will be long remembered as the day of the tapaculos! First the large Black-throated Huet-huet blasted Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 7 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 out its fabulous song, and then, with help from a Bluetooth speaker, finally one fine bird paraded right in front of us giving a grand finale as it strutted across the road! The large attractive tapaculo, the wonderful Black-throated Huet-huet — Photo: Andrew Whittaker Next up was a delightful Chucao Tapaculo behaving more like a European Robin as it hopped within feet of us with its tail cocked, showing off its magnificent colors and finer barred details while singing its heart out, and oh what a fine song! Quickly following in suit, we had slam dunk studies of the rarely seen Chilean Hawk coming in to tape after it was observed doing its display flight. The grand finale was, amazingly, another well-behaved Magellanic Tapaculo, this time showing off its white crown found on this subspecies. The crystal-clear stream flowing through this unique Alcerce Larch ''Valdivian,'' forest with its fine trails was a joy to explore, with other highlights including Tufted Tit-Tyrant and several odd-looking Patagonian Tyrants displaying from the cypress tree crowns. Again our picnic lunch produced a wonderful spread of mouthwatering goodies, as well as yet another fox, this time a very tame Patagonian Gray Fox! Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 8 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 Chilean Hawk posed very well; this was a first year — Photo: Andrew Whittaker Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 9 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 Always enigmatic and confiding, the cute Chucao Tapaculo — Photo: Andrew Whittaker This afternoon we skirted the delightful coastal road birding our way back to the hotel and enjoying many shorebirds including our first Magellanic Oystercatcher, Black-faced Ibis, Imperial Cormorant, Peruvian Pelican, Chimango Caracara, and Southern Lapwing. Early the next day, after a great breakfast, found us embarking on a picture-perfect still morning on our second Pincoya Storm-Petrel expedition! This tiny endemic storm-petrel was described new to science just 3 years ago (2013) and is known only from sheltered fjords around Chiloe Island. Population, breeding grounds, and voice are all unknown —it’s still a true enigma! However, our excellent boat crew, with the help of chum, did us proud, and soon we were the first ever group to see this bird so well as they danced over the water to our delight! Next up was our short ferry crossing to the picturesque Island of Chiloe where we enjoyed our first studies of the odd form (probably a new undescribed species) of Flightless Steamer- Duck, and Peale's Dolphin too.
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