WILD & CENTRAL : PUMAS, PENGUINS, CONDORS & MORE! NOVEMBER 2–17, 2017

One of the 8 Pumas seen! This is a hunting female Puma looking for Hares early am in Torres del Paine National Park — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

LEADERS : ANDREW WHITTAKER & FERNANDO DIAZ LIST COMPILED BY : ANDREW WHITTAKER

VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE , SUITE 1003 AUSTIN , TEXAS 78746 WWW .VENTBIRD .COM

WILD PATAGONIA & CENTRAL CHILE NOVEMBER 2 –17, 2017

By Andrew Whittaker

Wondrous Chile came up trumps again! We enjoyed a sensational second spring with a non stop array of exciting, easy birding (200 ) with a backdrop of stupendous world-class scenery, great mammals (16 species), and an amazing abundance of gorgeous wildflowers combined with super weather and scrumptious Chilean food! Life cannot get much better! We cleaned up on all the fantastic endemics and specialties and enjoyed yet another fabulous year of Pumas galore (last year 7 cats, this year 8)! Wild Patagonia rewarded us with the wonderful antics of an active King Penguin colony and its cute chicks, and we nailed so well the much-wanted Magellanic Plover, too. Other birding highlights included classing all the exciting, colourful, and often very confiding , killer views of the huge and astounding Magellanic and immense Andean Condor, close views of the rarely seen Pudu (the world’s smallest deer), and much more!

The wonderful increasing King Penguin colony on — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

Chile is almost like a European country and well worth visiting for its abundant wildlife alone, but also to experience the incomparable Andean and Patagonian scenery, especially at the famous Torres del Paine National Park (often described as the 8th Wonder of the World) or crossing the famous Straits of Magellan to visit Tierra del Fuego, “the land of fire,” and its stunning steppes and famous wildlife. Wow, Chile simply rocks and is a must to visit for any nature lover, as well as for the superlative Chilean food and famous wines!

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Our spectacular hotel Hosteira Pehoe, Torres del Paine National Park— Photo: Andrew Whittaker

Our NEW action-packed tour again surpassed my greatest expectations! We began on a high note in the delightful Andean slopes outside Santiago, scoring on a quick couple of cool endemics: first, the great sounding White-throated , and then we nailed two endemics —the Dusky-tailed Canastero and the Chilean (a high record of 7 seen)! We marveled over the enigmatic endemic scratching around in its towhee-like mode, gathering food for its young, against a fine backdrop of millions of poppies. This year the spring flowers were to-die-for, a vibrant kaleidoscope of colors and hues; we enjoyed great studies of not one but 3 different colorful Puya bromeliads. For lunch we arrived at a wonderful restaurant with a panoramic view of the snow-capped peaks of Valle Nevado (the valley of snow); here we had our first soaring Andean Condors of the day.

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Endemic and enigmatic Moustached Turca with such a great song — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

After a great meal we continued upwards past blue-hued mountain streams for another exciting stop, which produced a gorgeous male White-sided Hillstar that put on a great display of its fantastic colors, a very confiding Austral Pygmy-Owl, and good studies of an array of miners, Chilean Flicker, canasteros, sierra-finches, and flocks of Greater Yellow- Finches. Finding an almost certain as yet unnamed tapaculo singing on a rock at 3,000m surrounded by snow was my highlight, as snow flakes fell! Not to forget three exciting mammal highlights: a very neat-looking Culpeo Fox; the endemic Fence Degu; and hysterical observations of a colony of active Coruro (an all black groundhog look-alike with long yellow canines) as they were doing spring cleaning and digging out their burrows, popping up and down at their entrances reminiscent of floating black corks amongst waves!

A lovely, very confiding Culpeo Fox — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 The next day found us traveling south on wonderful modern freeways. We passed through the rich central valley, a famous wine producing area, with stunning snow-capped peaks to our left forming the backbone of this lovely country. At our next stop we enjoyed flocks of exotic Burrowing Parrots displaying their glorious colors as they commuted back and forth to nesting burrows in the river bank! We even had several land above our heads and put on an amazing show of behavior! Our search for the magnificent Torrent Duck rewarded us with great scope views of a lovely black-bellied male. We also enjoyed a neat couple of pairs of cool-looking and extremely localized Spectacled Ducks.

Spectacular Andean peaks loomed in the distance as we climbed through the scenic forested slopes of Southern Beech to arrive at our comfortable forested lodge on the edge of the magnificent Altos de Lircay National Park. Here we enjoyed the late evening in the lovely gardens with White-throated Treerunner, Thorn-tailed Rayadito, Patagonian Sierra- Finch, and the Firecrowns on the hummingbird feeders before being treated like kings to a great family-prepared banquet!

The amazing male Green-backed Firecrown is well named! — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

Nonstop action the next day in these stunning old growth forests, home to one of the world’s classiest , the Magellanic, of which we managed breathtaking views. Forest floors were home to delicate white orchids as the wondrous songs of the highly sought after Chestnut-throated Huet-huet echoed through the valleys. After some hard work, we managed great views of this dramatic beast of a tapaculo!

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Endemic terrestrial orchid Callus Chloraea (Chloraea cristata ) — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

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Inviting well-kept forested trails rewarded us with Striped Woodpecker, , and a rarely seen closely perched adult White-throated Hawk (that ignored our excitement below) with crippling scope studies! After our scrumptious picnic we found the extraordinarily colored Green-tailed Tree Iguanas. From vantage points within the park we also marveled over the backdrop of the magnificent cordillera of San Clemente and its towering snow-capped peaks. A real highlight was finding a roosting Rufous-legged Owl, a real stunner that we all enjoyed studying in the scope.

White-throated Hawk adult, rarely seen perched and extremely confiding — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

Migrating south from Santiago we flew to the lovely coastal city of Puerto Montt, founded in 1853 during German colonization. Picture-perfect snow-capped Volcanoes Osorno and Calbuco greeted our arrival. After a short drive we were birding the rich coastline, as Lahuen Nadi National Park was closed. We enjoyed good looks at several shorebirds and waterfowl before our first Rufous-tailed Plantcutter enchanted all.

The next day we visited another of Chile's fine national parks, and it will be long remembered as the day of the tapaculos! First the large Black-throated Huet-huet blasted

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 7 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 out its fabulous song, and then, with help from a Bluetooth speaker, finally one fine paraded right in front of us giving a grand finale as it strutted across the road!

The large attractive tapaculo, the wonderful Black-throated Huet-huet — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

Next up was a delightful behaving more like a European Robin as it hopped within feet of us with its tail cocked, showing off its magnificent colors and finer barred details while singing its heart out, and oh what a fine song! Quickly following in suit, we had slam dunk studies of the rarely seen Chilean Hawk coming in to tape after it was observed doing its display flight. The grand finale was, amazingly, another well-behaved , this time showing off its white crown found on this subspecies. The crystal-clear stream flowing through this unique Alcerce Larch ''Valdivian,'' forest with its fine trails was a joy to explore, with other highlights including Tufted Tit-Tyrant and several odd-looking Patagonian Tyrants displaying from the cypress tree crowns. Again our picnic lunch produced a wonderful spread of mouthwatering goodies, as well as yet another fox, this time a very tame Patagonian Gray Fox!

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Chilean Hawk posed very well; this was a first year — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

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Always enigmatic and confiding, the cute Chucao Tapaculo — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

This afternoon we skirted the delightful coastal road birding our way back to the hotel and enjoying many shorebirds including our first Magellanic Oystercatcher, Black-faced Ibis, Imperial Cormorant, Peruvian Pelican, , and Southern Lapwing.

Early the next day, after a great breakfast, found us embarking on a picture-perfect still morning on our second Pincoya Storm-Petrel expedition! This tiny endemic storm-petrel was described new to science just 3 years ago (2013) and is known only from sheltered fjords around Chiloe Island. Population, breeding grounds, and voice are all unknown —it’s still a true enigma! However, our excellent boat crew, with the help of chum, did us proud, and soon we were the first ever group to see this bird so well as they danced over the water to our delight!

Next up was our short ferry crossing to the picturesque Island of Chiloe where we enjoyed our first studies of the odd form (probably a new undescribed species) of Flightless Steamer- Duck, and Peale's Dolphin too. Sadly, tide times were wrong for our shorebird and waterbird stop; we just enjoyed hundreds of distant Black-necked Swans in the scope.

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A probable NEW SPECIES of Steamer-Duck! At present called Flightless Steamer-Duck a pair on Chiloe Island which are disjunct and morphologically distinct from southern ! — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

We drove through the rolling vibrant countryside onto the secluded Punihuil Bay, its rich turquoise sea and white sandy beach offering a wonderful setting. Boarding our private boat, we set off to the nearby islands, home to endearing Humboldt and Magellanic penguins (which were side by side allowing us to see the field marks to distinguish) while pairs of lovely Kelp Geese and smart Red-legged Cormorants were observed at close quarters on nesting cliffs. Armed with chum, sadly we could not venture out, as the sea was too rough. An added bonus was observing the Marine Otter on our return. We then drove south through more spectacular rolling countryside to our lovely plush hotel base within the national park for a wonderful reception and a great meal.

One of the most stunning in the family, a nesting Red-legged Cormorant — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 11 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 An action-packed day birding the expansive forest trails and recharging our batteries. Right in front of our lodge offered a magnificent veranda for observation, with countless flocks of endemic Slender-billed Parakeets and confiding Fire-eyed Diucons. Trails rewarded us with mega views of the near endemic Ochre-flanked Tapaculo crossing the trail and more from the charming Chucao Tapaculo (one can never get enough of this beauty). We enjoyed great looks at the odd-looking Desmur’s Wiretail too.

Slender-billed Parakeet, a much sought after endemic — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

Our dusk walk produced the creme de la creme in the form of a couple of rarely seen Pudu, the world’s smallest deer. The cuisine here was spectacular, and the night sky too.

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Southern Pudu: the world’s smallest deer and rarely observed! We spotted a female here — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

An early crossing of the secluded lake was like out of a movie, as wisps of fog rose for us to finally see the headlights of our bus awaiting us. We then had an eventful trip heading off to the airport, arriving in time after seeing more Pinchoya Storm-Petrels on our crossing, before arriving at Puerto Montt for our flight destination, Punta Arenas, the land of fire!

Soon our flight was descending over the blue white-capped waters of the famous Straits of Magellan to embark on our next exciting adventure, this time in Punto Arenas and Patagonia. Vast and empty, wind-swept and barren, Patagonia is an archetypal landscape that catches the imagination of all who visit, incuding that of the young, inquisitive !

After checking into our hotel, we traveled south to the outskirts of town to SanJuan Reserve where we were treated to great views of the rare Ruddy-headed Goose; on the way we had superb views of the other three species of geese: Upland, Kelp, and Ashy-headed, and our first tiny, smart Austral Negritos. On the grassy areas gracing the lakes were a Crested Duck family, Yellow-billed Pintail, and more. For dinner at one of the best restaurants in town we enjoyed a scrumptious lamb barbecue meal washed down by great wine before a well- earned rest.

After an excellent Chilean breakfast, we loaded our comfortable bus and boarded the huge ferry to cross the famous Straits of Magellan, our destination, the ''land of fire,'' Tierra del

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 13 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 Fuego! This pleasant 2-hour crossing was a rewarding pelagic with Magellanic Diving-Petrel, Fuegian (Wilson's) Storm-Petrel, countless Black-browed Albatross, and many sinister Southern Giant Petrels. Land bound onto the bleak Patagonian steppes we quickly honed in on one of our main targets, the rare and bizarre pink-legged Magellanic Plover, and WOW what views! A very cool bird; so odd it’s the sole member of its family, Pluvianellidae! Other highlights included smart Two-banded Plovers, Buff-winged Cinclodes, wonderful Cinnamon-bellied Ground-Tyrant, and Patagonian Yellow-Finch.

A bird found in its own family therefore much wanted, odd-looking and localized on remote Patagonian lakes, the Magellanic Plover — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

Continuing south, the stark Patagonian landscapes rewarded us with our first herds of Guanaco while the lack of any Chilean Flamingo flocks was odd. Next up, our goal, all spellbound with huge smiles lighting up our faces as we took in surely one of the most handsome and dignified birds on our planet, the King Penguin! Standing 3 feet tall and averaging 35 Ibs., this fairly new mainland colony had over 110 glistening adults and a wonderful 11 brown butterball young for us to enjoy!

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Growing King Penguin colony on Tierra del Fuego with ever so cute butterball young! — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

The following travel day was dedicated to exploring some very remote pristine Patagonian Steppes. We left the island after a short ferry crossing which produced Rock Cormorant and some really cool looks at the startling black-and-white Commerson's Doplhins. Back on the mainland, a remote wetlands served us well with a very smart and approachable Patagonian Hog-nosed Skunk, breeding Silvery Grebe, Silver Teal, and much more. We nailed well our next targets: two magnificent shorebirds, Rufous-chested and Tawny-throated dotterels.

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We were delighted to observe the antics of a wonderful Patagonian Hog-nosed Skunk digging up a goose ! — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

Two low density beauties followed great studies of responsive and enigmatic long-winged Chocolate-vented Tyrant: Austral Canastero, and then WOW, the stunning White-bridled ''Canary-winged'' Finch in flight, showing why its name should be changed! Stunning evening light and a couple of rainbows greeted us at Torres del Paine National Park (the icing on the cake on this fabulous tour) after a long day with all enjoying an unbelievable panoramic view of our classy island lodge (our comfy home for 3 nights) on the stunning

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 16 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 turquoise Pehoe Lake. The dominating scenic backdrop was to-die-for with the towering bleak Paine Massif and its tremendous 2,000 m, 6,500 ft snow-capped spires and wondrous glaciers!

The lovely long-winged Chocolate-vented Tyrant, a Patagonian special — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

Pumas galore over the next 2 days with an incredible 8 different individuals observed! We first marveled over scope views of a sleeping female while observing Andean Condors. The afternoon brought the rare opportunity of actually observing a Puma attack on our land owner’s sheep herd. So-so quick in a blink of an eye, it leapt out of cover, and as the dust flew up, the sheep was already dead in the Puma’s mouth (hit by a huge paw and a bite to the neck) in a split second with no suffering —very impressive. The trip Puma highlights for me, however, were incredible observations in evening sun of a pair of cubs walking and hunting while we watched for some 10 minutes through the scope. That evening, returning to the lodge, we even found another close individual just off the road at dusk that gave us great views. However, the following morning (we offered an optional pre-breakfast excursion) we hit the mother lode, locating another. We stepped off the bus and were privileged to observe it at close quarters for several minutes as the impressive female was hunting; thankfully she was more interested in trying to find a hare for her cubs than coming for us! We also found another fresh Guanaco kill off the roadside that was at first uncovered, then later covered by vegetation, but sadly no sign of the cat any time we passed.

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Guanaco herd at Torres del Paine National Park — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

Birding in this wonderful park was exceptional: strutting flocks of smart Darwin's Rheas, Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Band-tailed Earthcreeper, Rufous-banded Miner, two rare Gray-bellied Shrike-Tyrants, Patagonian Sierra-Finch, and a splash of vibrant color from Long-tailed Meadowlarks. Sadly, the road was closed for our Austral Rail spot; however, at almost every bend in the road there was yet another scenic photo opportunity awaiting. We especially appreciated the amazing show of flowering fiery reds in the form of huge clumps of Guanaco plants looking like they were on fire, all the hillsides and the vibrant mix of oranges and reds on the fire bushes in the Patagonian forests!

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Torres del Paine National Park with spectacular fiery Guanaco plants that can cover hillsides! — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

Daily from our secluded island we enjoyed the panoramic view of the snow-capped peaks while eating our meals. Sadly, we had to leave this paradise, and we made our way back to Punto Arenas before all too soon we were heading back northbound to the capital, Santiago, to finish up this most enjoyable trip. However, this year there were no farewells, as all of you were on the extension too!

You were a truly wonderful group, and it was our pleasure to be able to share so many special moments with you all in this beautiful country of Chile! I do hope we were able to pass on some of our immense passion, enthusiasm, and understanding of this truly magical region and its fine wildlife. I’m already looking ahead to spending yet another second spring in Chile next year! I do hope to see all of you again on one of my many exciting VENT adventures. Meanwhile, I hope you enjoy reading this report and that it brings back some fantastic memories. As always, very happy birding to you all!

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Group in Torres del Paine National Park — Photo: Fernando Diaz

WILD PATAGONIA & CENTRAL CHILE SEVEN FAVORITE BIRDS OF THE TRIP (AS VOTED BY THE GROUP):

1- KING PENGUIN 2- MAGELLANIC WOODPECKER 3- CHUCAO TAPACULO 4- RUFOUS-LEGGED OWL 5- MAGELLANIC PLOVER 6- WHITE-THROATED HAWK 7- BURROWING PARAKEET

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We were enthralled by observing close at hand the wonderful Burrowing Parakeet antics — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

ITINERARY:

11/2: Leave US to fly onto Chile. 11/3 : Arriving on flight into Santiago Chile. Pick up and transfer to our comfortable hotel; rest of day free till evening introduction meeting followed by the first of many wonderful Chilean meals. Several folks arrived early today or yesterday to rest up, enjoy Santiago,

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 21 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 and also bird on the comfortable hotel grounds and nearby Green area. Group meeting in the evening. 11/4: After an early breakfast our adventure began; boarding our bus we drove up into the stunning snow-capped outside town. Our first stop was Yerba Loca Park with its spectacular flowers and stunning bromeliads and, of course, neat endemics. We continued ascending along a scenic route past turquoise streams, birding our way to the summit at 3,500m. After an action-packed day, all too soon we had to descend to spend the night at our hotel in Santiago. 11/5: After an early breakfast we headed south through the rich, famous central valley vineyards enjoying the spectacular snow-capped Andes before birding later at Colbun Lake at an active Burrowing Parakeet colony. Finally after a short drive up into the lush Andean foothills we arrived at our pleasent family-run lodge and enjoyed the last hour of birding on its forested grounds. 11/6: Morning birding the spectacular Altos de Lircay National Reserve and its mature Southern Beech forest on superb well-kept trails where we enjoyed a wonderful picnic lunch. Birding the hummingbird feeders and grounds late afternoon before a lovely home- prepared meal. 11/7: After a short early couple of hours in the park, we drove back to Santiago and caught our midday flight south to the lovely coastal city of Puerto Montt, founded in 1853 during the period of German colonization. The rich shores were our late afternoon birding spot, rewarding us with a great introduction to the region’s avifauna. 11/8: Birding today in one of Chile’s natural wonders, Alerce Andino National Park, a magnificent 100,000 acres of Valdivian Forest mostly cypress and knarled Nothofagus trees. After an amazing tapaculo wipe out and another wonderful picnic lunch, we birded our way back along the rich coast to our hotel. 11/9: This morning we boarded our private boat for our exciting Pincoya Storm-Petrel trip with great success encountering this recently described new species (2013). We then boarded our ferry across to the charming Chiloe Island with some neat pelagics en route. On our arrival we drove through the quaint countryside to Punihuil Bay where we visited the offshore Penguin colonies on our private boat. After a great boat trip we headed to the remote southern tip of the island and the lovely plush Tepuhueico Hotel in Puyehue National Park locoted at the end of a secluded lake. We were treated to a great welcome drink and superb meal in its lovely panoramic lounge. 11/10: We enjoyed a relaxed time birding in the delightful forested grounds with wonderful food and hospitality. Evening mammal search produced the rarely seen Pudu! 11/11: After a very early start we returned to Puerto Montt for our flight. Here we caught our southbound flight to Punto Arenas. Midafternoon we drove an hour south to the San Juan reserve for its rare Ruddy-headed Geese and other waterfowl, enjoying a clean up of all the 4 Sheldgeese. This evening we enjoyed a superb barbeque Lamb (Chilean style) at a famous restaurant run by a French chef. 11/12: Early morning we crossed the famous Magellan Straits on the huge ferry to the Land of Fire, “Tierra Del Fuego,” with some neat pelagics en route before disembarking on the wild windswept Patagonian Steppes. First stop nailing the much sought after

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 22 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 Magellanic Plovers, then onto Bahia Inutil and the fabulous King Penguin Colony. Afternoon driving back birding on our way to the small quaint town of Cerro Sombrero. 11/13: We crossed back onto the mainland via a short ferry crossing birding en route along a deserted road through pristine Patagonian Steppe before heading to our destination, the world-famous Torres cel Paine National Park. The wild steppes rewarded us with some truly fabulous birds. We arrived in the late evening at the stunning park after an action-packed day of birding. 11/14-15: Two marvelous days of Puma safari, great birding, and enjoying breathtaking scenery of the park and recharging our batteries around our spectacular lodge on the turquoise lake Pehoe Island. One day going on a trip into the stunning highlands of Sierra Baguales for a few specialties. 11/16: This morning we began our drive back to Punto Arenas via Puerto Natales onto Punto Arenas. Flying north to Santiago where we had a lovely meal. Happily everybody continued on to the extensión. 11/17: Arrival home.

Spectacular Virgin’s Slipper ( ) in Patagonia — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

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BIRDS:

RHEAS (Rheidae) Darwin's (Lesser) Rhea (Pterocnemia pennata pennata ) Fantastic studies of this very well marked species considered a separate species from the Puna Rhea found in the higher elevations of the Andes in the far north of Chile. We had superb studies of many!

TINAMOUS (Tinamidae) Chilean tinamou ( perdicaria ) (E) – Seven individuals in fact with wonderful studies and a record breaking total. ( ingoufi ) – Only recently rediscovered in the country. Possibly after good breeding seasons in nearby . Sadly, we tried hard, seen by Andy and Shirley as it ran across the track.

DUCKS (Anatidae) Black-necked Swan (Cygnus melancoryphus ) Wonderful looking swan; we saw several with cute cygnets too. Coscoroba Swan (Coscoroba coscoroba ) Almost looks like Walt Disney made this one up, but real cute cygnets too! Upland Goose (Chloephaga picta ) The commonest of the wonderful Sheldgeese with a lovely tame family of tiny goslings on our lodge island in Lake Pehoe Kelp Goose (Chloephaga hybrida ) So strikingly different, the pure white male from the cool-looking females Ashy-headed Goose (Chloephaga poliocephala ) This has to be my favorite of all the Sheldgeese, simply a stunner! Ruddy-headed Goose (Chloephaga rubidiceps ) The rarest of all; we had stunning views of a few pairs at the reserve. Sadly, hunted in Argentina, protected in Chile and great work being done to get it to recover. Introduced Gray Fox in Patagonia causing terrible problems still! Flying Steamer-Duck (Tachyeres patachonicus ) Wonderful looks at this southern counterpart of the Eider Flightless Steamer-Duck (Tachyeres pteneres ) Fantastic studies of multiple pairs on Chiloe Island with the of this isolated disjunct form being still poorly understood. As we pointed out, this population may well in fact represent a NEW as yet undescribed species! Similarities in its distribution (isolated so far to the north) are also found on the Atlantic coast too in the form of the recently described White-headed Steamer-Duck (of Argentina) that by the way was only sorted out recently to in fact represent a new species and described in 1981! We saw true Flightless Steamers in the far south off the boat on the Magellan Straits and out of Punto Arenas on our afternoon excursión. Crested Duck (Lophonetta specularioides ) Such cute ducklings. Two forms seen, the ones in Patagonia with more of a crest, especially on males.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 24 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 Spectacled Duck (Speculanas specularis ) Fantastic scope looks at this range restricted species in several places. Torrent Duck ( Merganetta armata armata ) I have to say this must be one of the world’s most beautiful ducks. We had fantastic studies of a male of this black-bellied nominate form armata. Chiloe Wigeon (Anas sibilatrix ) Wow, named after our favorite island we stayed on. What cute rufous-headed ducklings! Red Shoveler ( Anas platalea ) – Several good looks Yellow-billed Pintail ( Anas georgica ) - common Yellow-billed Teal ( Anas flavirostris flavirostris ) - widespread

NEW WORLD QUAIL (Odontophoridae) (Callipepla californica ) A common introduced species

GREBES (Podicipedidae) White-tufted Grebe (Rollandia rolland ) Wow, so beautiful; we had exceptional views in a creek Great Grebe ( Podiceps major ) – Wonderful looks, just as happy on the sea as fresh wáter lakes. Silvery (Patagonian) Grebe ( Podiceps occipitalis occipitalis ) Stunning bird; we had nesting views to die for. This southern form is almost certainly a good split from the high Andean form.

FLAMINGOS (Phoenicopteridae) Chilean Flamingo (Phoenicopterus chilensis ) – Oddly almost absent; normally in great numbers adding wonderful colors to the stark pools of Patagonia and Torres del Paine park. We sadly saw only 3!

PENGUINS (Spheniscidae) King Penguin (Aptenodytes patagonicus ) Visiting the thriving new Patagonian colony on Tierra del Fuego for certain was a trip highlight for all! Rightly voted as TOP bird of the trip. Humboldt Penguin (Spheniscus humboldti ) Great looks at the colony on Chiloe Island Magellanic Penguin (Spheniscus magellanicus ) Nice to compare the two species so well!

ALBATROSSES (Diomedeidae) Black-browed Albatross (Thalassarche melanophris ) Fantastic close ups as these immense sea wanderers landed within meters of our boat to scoff up chum on Chiloe Island during our Storm-Petrel boat trip.

SHEARWATERS & PETRELS (Procellariidae) Southern Giant-Petrel (Macronectes giganteus ) One word: sinister; what views off the private ferry!

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 25 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 Southern Fulmar ( Fulmarus glacialoides ) Nice find; several late birds hanging around giving fine views of our Storm-Petrel boat trip. Pink-footed Shearwater ( Ardenna creatopus ) Loved our chum, diving to avoid Kelp Gulls Sooty Shearwater ( Ardenna grisea ) Common too, seen exceptionally well coming into chum Magellanic Diving-Petrel (Pelecanoides magellani ) Lots of good views of this tiny look-alike Murrelet

A lovely Pink-footed Shearwater, Chiloe Island, came in to chum— Photo: Andrew Whittaker

STORM-PETRELS (Hydrobatidae) Fuegian (Wilson's) Storm-Petrel (Oceanites oceanicus chilensis ) Wait for this future split; we had super looks at some off the ferry. Pincoya Storm-Petrel (Oceanites pincoyae ) (E) WOW, a trip highlight for both of your leaders. Our special stormy boat trip was a fantastic success. For sure no other group has ever had better views off the ferry too, with over 50 birds seen so well in great light and confirmed by photos to show the distinct white underwing pattern!

CORMORANTS (Phalacrocoracidae) Red-legged Cormorant (Phalacrocorax gaimardi ) One of the most gorgeous in the family, seen close on nesting cliffs on Chiloe. Neotropic Cormorant (Phalacrocorax brasilianus ) Magellanic (Rock) Cormorant (Phalacrocorax magellanicus ) lots of great looks Imperial Cormorant (Phalacrocorax atriceps ) Another cool looker and breeding well on the old weirs in front of our Punta Arenas hotel.

PELICANS (Pelecanidae) Peruvian Pelican (Pelecanus thagus ) What a size and such wonderfully amazing colors.

HERONS (Ardeidae) Cocoi Heron ( Ardea cocoi )

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 26 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 Great Egret ( Ardea alba ) Snowy Egret ( Egretta thula ) Cattle Egret ( Bubulcus ibis ) Black-crowned Night-Heron (Nycticorax nycticorax )

IBISES (Threskiornithidae) Black-faced Ibis ( Theristicus melanopis ) Amazingly even seen nesting on cliffs in Chiloe Island.

NEW WORLD VULTURES (Cathartidae) Black Vulture ( Coragyps atratus ) Turkey Vulture (Cathartes aura jota ) We informed you these bright red-headed forms may be a future split from non migratory South American forms to the north and also from North American migrant forms too Andean Condor (Vultur gryphus ) Wow, good studies of one of the world’s largest flying birds, especially at Torres del Paine this year.

HAWKS () White-tailed Kite (Elanus leucurus ) Cinereous Harrier (Circus cinereus ) Not many this year sadly. Chilean (Bicolored) Hawk ( bicolor chilensis ) Good find by Bev of that immature which came in so close to tape playback, offering outstanding views! A trip highlight for your leaders! Harris's Hawk (Parabuteo unicinctus ) (Geranoaetus polyosoma ) Many great looks at this, one of the country’s commonest raptors Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle (Geranoaetus melanoleucus ) White-throated Hawk ( Buteo albigula ) WOW, what a study of that wonderful adult that I spotted flying in and amazingly landing right above us for exceptional scope studies. Another raptor highlight rarely ever seen perched. Fernando’s best views ever say it all.

RAILS (Rallidae) Red-gartered Coot ( Fulica armillata ) White-winged Coot ( Fulica leucoptera )

MAGELLANIC PLOVER (Pluvianellidae) Magellanic Plover (Pluvianellus sociales ) What a show we had from a fine pair of these fantastic odd and very rare pink-legged beauties! Closely observing them feed, one can see just how unique they are! They even feed a milk-like substance by regurgitating to their young, how odd is this! Once thought to be closest to plovers; however, recent genetic research has concluded instead they’re closest to ! Also that Sheathbill and Magellanic Plover form a clade that are likely sister taxa to the Thick-knees.

STILTS & AVOCETS (Recurvirostridae)

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 27 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 White-backed (Black-necked) Stilt (Himantopus mexicanus melanurus )

OYSTERCATCHERS (Haematopodidae) American Oystercatcher (Haematopus palliatus ) Blackish Oystercatcher (Haematopus ater ) Magellanic Oystercatcher (Haematopus leucopodus ) Great studies to understand the plumage differences from the well known American Oystercatcher. Although we noted the field guide illustrated not the local subspecies of Chilean American Oystercatcher but the US one, ooops!

Blackish Oystercatcher in lovely morning light — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

PLOVERS & LAPWINGS () Tawny-throated Dotterel (Oreopholus ruficollis ) Stunning scope studies of this very colorful spectacular bird on the barren Patagonian steppes, its breeding grounds. Southern Lapwing (Vanellus chilensis chilensis ) The true Southern Lapwing of the southern tier of . Two-banded Plover (Charadrius falklandicus ) Very smart looker Rufous-chested Dotterel (Charadrius modestus ) Good scope looks at this crippler too!

SEEDSNIPES (Thinocoridae) Least ( rumicivorus) What a cool-looking bird (miniature Ptarmigan- look-alike). In fact, surprisingly the closest related species is the Plains-wanderer from Australia!

SANDPIPERS & ALLIES (Scolopacidae) (Hudsonian) Whimbrel ( Numenius phaeopus hudsonicus ) Split by the Brits from Eurasian populations which are morphologically distinct, have white rumps and winter in Africa.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 28 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 Hudsonian Godwit ( Limosa haemastica ) Chiloe Island is one of their main wintering grounds with 75 % of population found here. Ruddy ( Arenaria interpres) Surfbird ( Aphriza virgata ) Baird's Sandpiper ( Calidris bairdii ) Not too common this year White-rumped Sandpiper ( Calidris fuscicollis ) Most common peep Magellanic (South American) Snipe ( Gallinago paraguaiae magellanica ) Wow, you can never get a better look at this almost certain split than we had, even singing. Lesser Yellowlegs ( Tringa flavipes )

SKUAS & JAEGERS (Stercorariidae) Chilean Skua (Stercorarius chilensis ) Great studies off the boat

GULLS, TERNS & SKIMMERS (Laridae) Andean Gull (Chroicocephalus serranus ) Nice looks second day at the Parakeet colony Dolphin Gull ( Leucophaeus scoresbii ) Simply a stunner in Patagonia off the docks Franklin’s Gull ( Leucophaeus pipixcan ) Wow, already arrived in huge numbers by the end of the trip Kelp Gull ( Larus dominicanus ) Abundant. Notable small bird off Chiloe Island. Maybe splits involved in the future within the complex. South American Tern (Sterna hirundinacea) Several in superb breeding plumage giving great studies

PIGEONS & DOVES () Chilean Pigeon (Patagioenas araucana ) Wonderful looker Picui Ground Dove ( Columbina picui ) Black-winged Ground-Dove ( Metriopelia melanoptera ) – Nice looks outside Santiago in the mountains Eared Dove (Zenaida auriculata )

OWLS (Strigidae) Austral Pygmy-Owl ( Glaucidium nana ) Superb looks in scope of a bird first day Rufous-legged Owl (Strix rufipes ) Great find on daytime roost! Another trip highlight!

NIGHTJARS & ALLIES (Caprimulgidae) Band-winged Nightjar ( Systellura longirostris ) – Leader only.

HUMMINGBIRDS (Trochilidae) Green-backed Firecrown (Sephanoides sephaniodes ) Cool looker stunning studies of flaming capped males on the lodge’s hummingbird feeders! White-sided Hillstar ( Oreotrochilus leucopleurus ) – WOW, great looks at male and a female by her nest Giant Hummingbird (Patagona gigas gigas ) Good studies of this huge, almost swift-like hummer

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 29 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017

KINGFISHERS (Alcedinidae) Ringed Kingfisher (Megaceryle torquata stellata ) Great studies of this monster!

WOODPECKERS (Picidae) Striped Woodpecker (Veniliornis lignarius ) A super looker Chilean Flicker (Colaptes pitius ) Nice scope studies Magellanic Woodpecker (Campephilus magellanicus ) Incredible views of this iconic Patagonian forest bird. The female to me simply rocks, but the male too is not at all shabby! The white in the wing as they flew over our heads crippling, just wish they were Ivory-billed! Of course voted one of the TOP birds of the trip.

FALCONS & CARACARA (Falconidae) Southern Caracara (Caracara plancus ) Mountain Caracara ( Phalcoboenus megalopterus ) One great close fly-by look Chimango Caracara (Milvago chimango ) Fooled us all so many times for a harrier! American Kestrel (Falco sparverius ) Aplomado Falcon ( Falco femoralis ) Rare bird to find in Chile; we had distant scope looks and a trip first. Peregrine Falcon ( Falco peregrinus ) One zoomed through in Torres del Paine as we were studying a resting Puma

NEW WORLD AND AFRICAN PARROTS (Psittacidae) Austral Parakeet (Enicognathus ferrugineus ) Slender-billed Parakeet (Enicognathus leptorhynchus ) (E) Great studies so-so close at our hotel of this cool-looking endemic getting néctar from the Fire Trees! Burrowing Parakeet (Cyanoliseus patagonus ) Super cool, big enough and brightly colored to be a macaw; we had exceptional studies in our faces! Got into the top 7.

TAPACULOS (Rhinocryptidae) Chestnut-throated Huet-huet ( castaneus ) Needed some work but at last paid off with quick but good looks at this great bird! Black-throated Huet-huet (Pteroptochos tarnii ) Fantastic breathtaking studies of this hulking near endemic beauty! Moustached Turca ( Pteroptochos megapodius ) (E) Chucao Tapaculo ( rubecula ) Wow, so close we could almost touch it, and what colors! My all time favorite and in my top 7 as it also reminds me of European Robin by the way of being so bold. Walked over folks’ feet almost on Chiloe Island; how can you not just love tapaculos! White-throated Tapaculo ( Scelorchilus albicollis ) (E) Good looks after some playback. Ochre-flanked Tapaculo (Eugralla paradoxa ) Wow, what amazing views, those hulky yellowish legs super cool. What great tapaculo highlights we had! Magellanic Tapaculo ( magellanicus ) remarkable studies too of the southern white-capped birds found down to sea level.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 30 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 Scytalopus sp. Novum - Amazing to find this dark larger form (with no white cap) high in the Andes (3,000 m) singing on rocks with no vegetation and surrounded by snow in the Valle Nevada! Almost certainly representing a new unamed species (so close to Santiago) this interesting species was first noted by Alvaro Jaramillo (2003). A trip highlight for me and a lifer! ( Scytalopus fuscus ) (E) *

OVENBIRDS & WOODCREEPERS (Furnariidae) Common (Patagonian) Miner (Geositta cunicularia cunicularia ) Some splits very probable. Seen very well on Tierra del Fuego. Rufous-banded Miner (Geositta rufipennis ) – In the snow flurry we had a cool small tame flock first day! Short-billed Miner (Geositta antarctica ) Great looks along the road on Tierra del Fuego White-throated Treerunner (Pygarrhichas albogularis ) Exceptional studies of this nuthatch look-alike. Band-tailed Earthcreeper (Ochetorhynchus phoenicurus ) Wonderful looks in the mountains outside Torres del Paine National Park. Once an Argentinian endemic! Scale-throated Earthcreeper ( Upucerthia dumetaria ) What a bill! Buff-winged Cinclodes ( Cinclodes fuscus ) Dark-bellied Cinclodes ( Cinclodes patagonicus ) Abundant Thorn-tailed Rayadito ( Aphrastura spinicauda ) One of the most common forest birds nesting in the lodge’s buildings; we found 4 different ones! Des Murs's Wiretail ( Sylviorthorhynchus desmursii ) The name is almost as long as its odd thin wire tail! Austral Canastero ( Asthenes anthoides ) Nice studies of this hard to find bird Dusky-tailed Canastero ( Pseudasthenes humicola ) (E) Great studies, even found its nest Sharp-billed Canastero (Asthenes pyrrholeuca )

TYRANT FLYCATCHERS (Tyrannidae) Tufted Tit-Tyrant ( Anairetes parulus ) Common but super cool Chilean (White-crested) Elaenia (Elaenia albiceps chilensis ) Abundant forest flycatcher, very vocal displaying crest often Austral Negrito (Lessonia rufa ) Love this bird, males are so neat looking Spectacled Tyrant (Hymenops perspicillatus ) - On road line fence posts just arrived Dark-faced Ground-Tyrant ( Muscisaxicola maclovianus ) Leader only, flying across the road in Torres del Paine. Cinereous Ground-Tyrant ( Muscisaxicola cinereus ) – A nice find and view of this Highland species. White-browed Ground-Tyrant ( Muscisaxicola albilora ) Cinnamon-bellied Ground-Tyrant ( Muscisaxicola capistratus ) Fantastic cool-looking ground-tyrant, one of the best. We even found one nesting in a pipe near our hotel. Grey-bellied Shrike-Tyrant ( Agriornis micropterus ) Very cool to catch up with 2 birds nest building one and feeding young the other! A low density easily missed species. Fire-eyed Diucon ( Xolmis pyrope ) Common but lovely with its fiery eye

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 31 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 Chocolate-vented Tyrant ( Neoxolmis rufiventris ) Fantastic looker and an iconic bird of wind-swept steppes of Patagonia. We had superb multiple views. Patagonian Tyrant ( Colorhamphus parvirostris ) A real odd head shape. Black-billed Shrike-Tyrant (Agriornis montanus ) Great looks on our first day!

A cute looking Tufted Tit-Tyrant — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

COTINGAS (Cotingidae) Rufous-tailed Plantcutter (Phytotoma rara ) Great studies and what an odd voice too!

SWALLOWS (Hirundinidae) Blue-and-white Swallow (Pygochelidon cyanoleuca ) Chilean Swallow (Tachycineta meyeni ) Barn Swallow ( Hirundo rustica )

WRENS (Troglodytidae) House (Troglodytes aedon )

THRUSHES & ALLIES (Turdidae) (Turdus falcklandii ) Abundant

MOCKINGBIRDS & THRASHERS (Mimidae) Chilean Mockingbird (Mimus thenca ) (E) Lovely studies by our airport hotel in the grounds. Common in other sites too. Patagonian mockingbird ( Mimus patagonicus ) Good find; we had a couple of pairs, easily missed.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 32 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 WAGTAILS & PIPITS (Motacillidae) Correndera Pipit (Anthus correndera )

TANAGERS & ALLIES (Thraupidae) Gray-hooded Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus gayi ) Wonderful looker. Patagonian Sierra-Finch (Phrygilus patagonicus ) Abundant; another great splash of color Plumbeous Sierra-Finch ( Geospizopsis unicolor ) Band-tailed Sierra Finch ( Phrygilus alaudinus ) Wow, what a responsive male, almost landed on my speaker! Common Diuca-Finch ( Diuca diuca ) White-bridled (Canary-winged) Finch ( Melanodera melanodera princetoniana ) Simply breathtaking birds, especially in flight! Poorly-named, should be Canary-winged! Yellow-bridled Finch ( Melanodera xanthogramma ) Lovely long-winged beauty, loves those dandelions like Fernando explained. We had super studies up in the mountains outside Torres del Paine National Park. Patagonian Yellow-Finch ( Sicalis lebruni ) Nesting in holes in banks with a nice musical song Yellow-Finch ( Sicalis luteola ) Abundant Greater Yellow-Finch ( Sicalis auriventris )

BUNTINGS & NEW WORLD SPARROWS (Emberizidae) Rufous-collared Sparrow (Zonotrichia capensis ) A real character; we enjoyed the austral Patagonian form australis with the gray head.

TROUPIALS & ALLIES (Icteridae) Long-tailed Meadowlark (Sturnella loyca ) Very cool looker Austral Blackbird (Curaeus curaeus ) Shiny Cowbird ( Molothrus bonariensis )

The striking fiery breast of a male Long-tailed Meadowlark — Photo: Andrew Whittaker

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 33 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 FINCHES, EUPHONIAS & ALLIES (Fringillidae) Black-chinned Siskin (Spinus barbatus ) Not so abundant ths year

OLD WORLD SPARROWS (Passeridae) House Sparrow (Passer domesticus ) Common

Total number of Birds species recorded 166

MAMMALS:

RODENTS (Rodentia) Fence Degu ( Octodon degus ) (E) Great find thanks to Fernando knowing a site. Coruro ( Spalalopus cyanus ) (E) Wow, so cool-looking, and what fun watching their antics in the colony!

RABBITS (Leporidae) European Hare ( Lepus europaeus ) European Rabbit ( Oryctolagus cuniculus )

CAMELIDS (Camelidae) Guanaco (Lama guanicoe ) Wonderful herds of this cool-looking critter

DEER (Cervidae) Southern Pudu ( Pudu pudu ) A mammal trip highlight! This is one of the rarest and most difficult shy deer to see. We had a couple seen very well on our dusk trip. On a later night walk Fernando and I had several more!

CATS (Felidae) Puma (Puma concolor ) A huge 8 different cats; a unique and amazing experience of watching one take its prey! We even found 3 on our own without the trackers!

FOXES (Canidae) Culpeo Fox (Pseudalopex culpaeus ) Fantastic studies Patagonian Gray Fox ( Pseudalopex griseus ) Again so close at our picnic spot

Weasels & Allies (Mustelidae) Southern Sea-otter ( Lontra felina ) Good looks at one on Chiloe.

EARED SEALS (Otariidae) South American Sea-lion ( Otaria flavescens )

SKUNKS

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 34 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017 Patagonian (Humboldt's) Hog-nosed Skunk ( Conepatus humboldti ) Fantastic studies thanks to Shirley spotting it. We all enjoyed prolonged studies as it dug up a goose egg.

RORQUALS (Balaenopteridae) Fin Whale ( Balaenoptera physalus ) – Only species identified. I think the other was probably a Humpback but will never be sure!

DOLPHINS (Dephinidae) Commerson's Dolphin ( Cephalorhynchus commersoni ) Fantastic looks at this stunning small black and white dolphin Peale's Dolphin (Lagenorhynchus australis )

Total of 15 Mammals

REPTILES:

LIOLAEMIDAE Blue-tailed (Thin tree Lizard) Tree Iguana (Liolaemus tenuis )

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 35 Wild Patagonia & Central Chile 2017