Wooden Architecture Route МАŁOPOLSKA

 14 UNESCO World Heritage List sites  255 attractions on the Wooden Architecture Route  Wadowice – of birth of Pope John Paul II  Salt mines in Wieliczka and  9 spa resorts  6 national parks  6 geothermal pools  Rafting down the Dunajec gorge  2600 km of bicycle trails  3360 km of mountain trails  65 ski stations

www.visitmalopolska.pl fb.com/lubiemalopolske

The project has been funded by Małopolska Region Rejkiawik IS

FIN Helsinki N Oslo S Sztokholm Tallin EST RUS MAŁOPOLSKA Ryga LV Dublin DK WOODEN ARCHITECTUREIRL Kopenhaga LT Wilno GB RUS Mińsk MAŁOPOLSKA ROUTE NL Londyn BY Wooden Architecture Route Capital of the region: Kraków Amsterdam Berlin Major cities: Tarnów, Nowy Sącz, Oświęcim Bruksela Warszawa Surface area: 15,190 km2 (about 5% of the surface D PL B Kijów area of ) L Praga KRAKÓW Population: 3.4 mil. (about 8% of the population Paryż Luksemburg UA Table of Contents of Poland) CZ SK Chapter 1. Kraków and its Surroundings ...... 5 Landscape: Bratysława F FL Wiedeń Chapter 2. Tarnów and its Surroundings ...... 11  the tallest peak – Rysy: 2499 m asl Berno MD Vaduz Budapeszt  mountains – Tatras, , Pieniny, Gorce CH A Chapter 3. Surroundings of Nowy Sącz and Gorlice . . . 17 H Kiszyniów foothills – Carpathian Foothills Lublana SLO Chapter 4. Orava, Podhale, Spisz and Pieniny ...... 25  RO  uplands – Kraków-Częstochowa Upland Zagrzeb San Bukareszt harming Catholic churches, lofty Orthodox chur-  lowlands – Vistula valley Marino HR AND Monako BIH Belgrad ches, magnificent manor houses, elegant villas  main rivers – Vistula,P Dunajec, Poprad,E Raba, MC RSM Andora Sarajewo SRB and simple, yet beautiful cottages… all made of Skawa, Biała Lizbona Madryt I MNE Sofia C  water reservoirs – Czorsztyński, Rożnowski, Priština BG wood. Such unique buildings can be admired on the Rzym Podgorica RKS Skopje Czchowski, Dobczycki, Klimkówka V Wooden Architecture Route. In the Małopolska Region,  the highest located, cleanest lakes – Morskie Oko, Tirana MK the trail covers over 1,500 km and includes 255 vario- Czarny Staw, the lakes of the Valley of Five Polish Lakes AL us buildings and building complexes. The most famo-  the largest and deepest cave – Wielka Śnieżna GR TR us among them are naturally those inscribed on the Cave: over 22 km of corridors, 824 m deep UNESCO List of World Cultural and Natural Heritage Ateny Sites: the churches in , Dębno, Lipnica Muro- More information on: wana and Sękowa. Four wooden Orthodox churches www.visitmalopolska.pl, were added to the World Heritage List in 2013 located www.muzea.malopolska.pl M in Brunary Wyżne, Kwiatoń, Owczary and Powroźnik, together with four other Orthodox churches in the Pod- Publishers I, 2010 karpackie Region, and wooden Orthodox churches in Departament Turystyki, Sportu i Promocji Urzędu Marszałkowskiego Województwa Małopolskiego, Zespół ds. Regionalnego Systemu Informacji Turystycznej the . These historic buildings are manifest to the ul. Basztowa 22, 31-156 Kraków uniqueness of sacred wooden architecture of region on [email protected], www.visitmalopolska.pl the world scale. The originality of the buildings is not li- Publishing concept: Anna Niedźwieńska, project management MSIT mited to the material and architectural form; the inte- Project coordination: Katarzyna Thor riors boast works of art of high historic value. The buil- Fifth revised edition, 2017 dings boast wall paintings dating from various periods, Małopolska Organizacja Turystyczna paintings, and liturgical items, while Ortho- Rynek Kleparski 4/13, 31-150 Kraków dox churches feature the characteristic iconostases with [email protected], www.mot.krakow.pl many original icons. The sites inscribed on the UNESCO Project coordination: Agnieszka Bratek World Heritage List constitute only a small group of the Text Music Enchanted in Wood Concert, St. the Archangel Church in Binarowa, wealth of incredibly valuable buildings located on the Iwona Baturo, Krzysztof Bzowski MOT photo archive Małopolska Route. It must be remembered that histo- ric wooden architecture, an inherent element of the Po- Publishing of revision: Virtual 3D lish landscape, has been best preserved in Małopolska. Publishing It merges beautifully with the local landscape: green Amistad Sp. z o.o. – Program valleys, picturesque hills and soaring mountain peaks. ul. Stolarska 13/7, 31-043 Kraków tel./faks: + 48 12 4229922 [email protected], www.polskaturystyczna.pl All sites on the Wooden Architecture Route feature infor- Production management: Agnieszka Błaszczak, Małgorzata Czopik, Ewelina Wolna mation boards, as well as road signs directing to them. As Editor: Aurelia Hołubowska, Teresa Lachowska part of the „Open Wooden Architecture Route” project, Proofreading: Agnieszka Szmuc some churches and Orthodox churches are open to the Cover design, graphic design: PART SA public between May and September. It is a unique op- Maps: Wydawnictwo Kartograficzne Daunpol sp. z o.o. portunity to see places that are normally inaccessible. Typesetting, preparation for print: Michał Tincel Translation and proofreading: EuroInterpret Dominik Moser

Kraków 2017, ISBN 978-83-65249-44-9 The authors and publishers have made every effort to ensure the text is accurate, however, they cannot be responsible for any changes that took place after the materials have been prepared for publishing. Last revision: 28 February 2017. decorative forms appeared. The perfection of the construc- Wooden Architecture in Małopolska tion workers continues to amaze. Larch or fir logs were care- Easy to process and widely available wood was the pri- fully matched, creating solid walls. Initially, they were not mary material used for construction in old Poland. Lower covered with any protective material. Shingle insulation quality wood was used for constructing cottages and farm came later, and was followed by boarding. Small windows buildings, and since country carpenters did not always ap- were only cut out in south-facing walls, while the church ply themselves to their work, they shortened the lifespan could always be entered through two entrances: the main of such buildings. The situation was different in case of one, in the western wall of the nave, and the side one, in churches: healthy trees of impressive sizes were chosen as the middle of the nave’s southern wall. material. After falling, they were diligently debarked, dried The churches still had no towers (at least no such build- and processed. Sacred buildings were erected mainly by ings survived), while the sacred function of the building professional city carpenters, who were members of special- was signalled by the little spirelet on the . The bells ized carpentry workshops. The old churches in Małopolska were placed in free standing belfries. The first known tow- to a large degree owe their glory to the work of their hands. ers adjoining to the main body of the church appeared as th th Architecture in Małopolska was dominated by log con- late as at the turn of the 16 and 17 centuries. They were Church in Dębno Podhalańskie, photo by K. Syga struction – beams were placed one on top of another, cre- characteristically shaped, with sloping walls, overhanging ating the so-called framework, which was then joined to- bell housing and pyramid-shaped . The churches gether at the corners using various carpentry techniques. were surrounded with the so-called soboty, i.e. arcatures. Even in later centuries, nails were still not used for joining This characteristic element, which increased the appeal entirely constructed of the most durable and noble kind wooden elements. Adjacent pieces were carefully matched of the main body of the church and made it look more of wood, i.e. larch. It was only used for the elements that together. Wooden pegs were sometimes used to reinforce settled, developed from roofs and was to protect the un- had to be resistant to humidity. Originally, the buildings the construction. The buildings were frequently decorat- derpinning from humidity. Around the 17th century, the had only one, western entrance, while window openings, ed, for instance with solar motifs and various carved and arcatures took on an additional function: they became just like in case of Catholic churches, were located only on painted plant ornaments. temporary shelters for people, particularly pilgrims visit- south-facing walls. ing churches located in secluded areas. The construction of a typical, most characteristic Lemko Churches The church was surrounded by a fence, while the adja- Orthodox church was based on a three-part structure. It The most spectacular wooden buildings are centuries-old cent area was used for burials. Wooden fences were soon consisted of rooms similar in shape to a square: the chan- Catholic and Orthodox churches. The first wooden church- replaced by more durable walls made from square stone, cel, the wider nave and the narthex. The latter, where only es in Poland did not survive until today. It is assumed that and covered with shingled roofs. There were always trees women convened during the service, was most often hid- Orthodox Church in Kwiatoń, photo by K. Bańkowski the first such constructions were small, clear span build- growing around the church. They protected the building den under the tower. The nave and the chancel were cov- ings. Together with the shift in liturgical needs, they later from winds and thunders, while today they are also a char- ered by characteristic, tent-shaped, often tiered, hipped developed into medieval village churches. They were ori- acteristic element of sacred architecture. roofs (there were one, two or three vertical tiers on the ented and consisted of a square-shaped nave and a nar- The external appearance of Gothic churches, especially the surface of the roof). They were covered with shingle, lat- rower, also square-shaped chancel, covered with separate main body proportions, did not change in the following er replaced with cheaper, yet more durable metal roofing. roofs. There were no towers or annexes. The typical Goth- centuries. Various artistic trends influenced almost exclu- The domes of the roofs were crowned with onion-shaped ic model of a wooden church developed on the territo- sively the interior design. Two visible external manifesta- helmets with lantern imitations (the top floor extension in ry of Małopolska in the 15th century. This model was later tions of new styles were the onion-shaped, typical for the the form of a tower, which, in contrast to an actual lantern, repeated in dozens of buildings, up until the 17th century. Baroque style tower domes and added chapels of a Ba- did not provide additional lighting). The last element was On the territory we are focusing on, only a few 15th-centu- roque or Classical character. topped with a small sphere and a cross – always made of ry sacred buildings have been preserved, e.g. in Kraków- wrought iron. The element that characterised Lemko Or- Mogiła and Dębno; many more (a few dozen) churches Lemko Orthodox Churches thodox churches was a white bell tower dominating over date back to the 16th century. The southern parts of the Nowy Sącz and Gorlice Coun- the entire structure. The crown of the tower usually imitat- What were the characteristics of a Gothic wooden church ties are characterised by Lemko Orthodox churches that ed the top of the roofs. The church walls and tower were in Małopolska? In contrast with older buildings, both seg- merge beautifully with the local landscape. Just like Catho- initially panelled with shingle, which was later replaced by ments – the nave and the chancel – were covered with lic churches, they were erected in carefully selected places, boarding. Orthodox churches also used to be richly and col- a common, homogeneous roof. It stabilized the construc- mainly on small elevations, and surrounded with a circle of ourfully painted. Apart from its aesthetic appeal, covering tion and increased its durability. The silhouette of the roof trees. Until the end of the 18th century, Orthodox church- the external walls with paint also had a practical function: Heritage Park in Szymbark, photo by K. Bańkowski was steep and the building slender. A carpentry detail (vis- es were built only with wood, using the log construction it protected from quick deterioration. Today, there is almost ible in the form of door and window frames, as well as technique. Coniferous trees were used for this purpose. nothing left to remind us that Lemko Orthodox churches moulded and bevelled beams) and quite a wide range of However, it is worth noting that no Orthodox church was used to be truly colourful.

2 3 Kraków and its Surroundings Glossary of architectural terms arcade (podcień) open space at the bottom of a building situated along its elevation, limited by posts, pillars or columns arcature (sobota) another type of arcades arch an arch supported by two columns bay window a part of a building covered with a separate roof, protruding from the surface of the wall on a certain level above the ground boarding a surface of planks that constitutes the cover of a building wall chancel the part of a Christian church reserved for the clergy and housing the main altar a residential space in the , with the walls protruding through the roof plane and forming an extended addition above the cornice of the building; the dormer is covered with a separate roof. the lower part of the roof plane, protruding beyond the external walls of the building elevation external part of the building together with the adjacent architectonic and ornamental elements false roof lantern unlike the real roof lantern, it does not provide natural daylight into the building 1. top of the building’s elevation, often in the triangular or semi-circular shape 2. triangular wall between the planes of the pitched roof Wooden architecture in Lanckorona, photo by K. Bańkowski a roof consisting of a number of triangle-shaped surfaces that meet at the highest point log construction the construction of walls built from wooden beams placed one on top of another and joined at the corners using various carpentry techniques a kind of a tiered roof, whose lower slopes are steeper than its upper slopes n the area around Kraków, the Wooden Archi- nave the part of a church between the chancel and the vestibule (or narthex in case of Orthodox tecture Route includes over 50 historic buildings. churches) used by the congregation IThey are above all charming, small-town wood- rood beam a horizontal, decorative beam with a crucifix and statues of the saints on its top, placed en churches, located in such places as Barwałd Dol- between the main nave and the chancel ny, Łapanów, Mętków, Osiek, Paczółtowice, Polanka Wielka, Racławice, Więcławice Stare, Wola Radzi- roof lantern a tower-like addition, crowning the roof or a , with many windows, in order to provide szowska and Woźniki. Between May and September, natural daylight into the space inside the building some of these normally closed buildings, are open to roof plane external surface covering the roof visitors (more details on www.drewniana.malopol- shingle flat, rectangular wooden planks used for covering roofs ska.pl). While exploring the region, you can also vis- it two interesting heritage parks: the Nadwiślański spirelet (flèche) a small tower situated on the church roof, featuring a small bell Ethnographic Park in Wygiełzów and the Folk Ar- starling the highest, hanging tier of the tower, the bell floor chitecture Heritage Park (Skansen Budownictwa Ludowego) in Dob­czyce. A few are famous tented roof roof consisting of several triangular planes meeting at the highest point of the roof for their well-preserved wooden building complex- three-part an oblong Orthodox church consisting of three parts: narthex (gallery for women), nave es. The real gem is obviously Lanckorona with its Orthodox church and chancel; in case of West Lemko Orthodox churches, the narthex is usually partially or 19th-century small-town architecture, while Ojców entirely under the tower. is home to some charming spa buildings. You can see tiered roof a roof, whose surface is divided into two or more parts, separated with a break, offset, some beautiful wooden manor houses in the towns wall or cornice of Miechów and Wola Zręczycka. Kraków itself also boasts some fascinating buildings.

4 Chapel On the Water in Ojców, photo by K. Syga Church of St. Andrew in Osiek, photo by M. Zaręba Church of St. Bartholomew in Kraków-Mogiła, photo by K. Syga Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Paczółtowice, photo by K. Syga

Churches Ojców, Chapel On the Water Osiek, Church of St. Andrew Paczółtowice, Church of the Visitation The Chapel of St. Joseph the Craftsman, which is the official The slender, harmonious body of the church in Kraków-Mogiła, Church of St. Bartholomew of the Blessed Virgin Mary name of the Chapel On the Water, was created in 1901 from Osiek, surrounded by 500-year-old oak trees (monuments The church in Kraków-Mogiła dates back to 1466, which The charming, fir church in Paczółtowice was built in 1510. Its converted spa baths (at the turn of the 19th and 20th centu- of nature) make unique impression. The church dates back makes it one of the oldest surviving churches in Małopolska. characteristic, massive tower dates from 1528, but was sig- ries Ojców used to be a famous health and holiday resort). to the 16th century and was probably built in the years Even the name of its creator survives. He was the royal car- nificantly altered in the 18th century, which is indicated by its Although Tsar Nicholas II issued an order forbidding the con- 1538–49. The tower was added later (in the 17th century), penter by the name of Maciej Mączka (according to the in- onion-shaped Baroque helmet. The interior is decorated with struction of sacred buildings in the Ojców area, it was cleverly while the arcatures were constructed in the 18th century. scription carved on the southern portal of the church). The polychromy, dating mainly from the 19th century, with only the circumvented by placing the building “on the water”. At least, It is worth having a peek inside the church to see the pre- slender building is towerless, while the 18th-century wooden northern wall of the chancel and nave featuring fragments of this is how tradition explains the unusual location of the chap- served fragments of paintings on the ceiling and walls dat- belfry standing right next to it has a dome-shaped helmet. the 17th-century wall paintings. The main altar (1604) of high el. The well-shaped building, constructed on a cross-shaped ing back to the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. The Rococo pul- The church premises are entered through the belfry. In the artistic value boasts the locally venerated Gothic painting of plan and boarded with bright planks, is supported by stilts pit shaped as Peter’s boat stands out among the furnishings 18th century, side chapels and a multi-storey sacristy were Our Lady of Paczółtowice. The historic furnishings include rooted in the bed of a stream. The chapel’s roof is decorated of high historical value. added to the church, which altered somewhat the austere a bronze crucifix and baptismal font, as well as a large pas- with a lofty, openwork tower crowned with a cross. Particularly medieval form of the building. The interior of the church is chal candle holder, which was made of black Dębnik marble, charming in the modest, bright interior of the chapel are the interesting. It features three naves, a rarity among the known along with a few epitaphs built in the church wall. altars, whose shape resembles the roofs of mountain cottages. Gothic wooden churches in Małopolska. Although the fur- nishings and the wall paintings date from the 18th century, Chapel On the Water, Ojców, \ +48 600450334 Church of St. Andrew, Osiek, \+48 33 8458217, the ogival arcades between the naves and the carved portal =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl +48 33 8458451, =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl Church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin date back to the time when the church was originally built. Mary, Paczółtowice 14, \+48 12 2829091, Church of St. Bartholomew, ul. Klasztorna 11, =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl Kraków, \+48 12 6442331, +48 12 6446992, OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl or King Łokietek Cave, which you can reach by following the black tourist OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS www.mogila.cystersi.pl trail from Ojców, and the nearby Dark Cave (both open to the public). Churches on the Wooden Architecture Route, located e.g. OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS The Mace of Hercules is the famous, uniquely shaped limestone in Polanka Wielka, Jawiszowice, Głębowice and Nidek. OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS The Kraków Valleys are an ideal place for strolling. outlier. Ojców with its historic spa architecture and the ruins Lanckorona with its wooden buildings and a unique market Cistercian Abbey in Kraków-Mogiła, one of Kraków’s oldest The Monastery of the Carmelites in Czerna,erected of the medieval stronghold. The Castle in Pieskowa Skała, square. th sacred complexes dating back to 1225. Granary in­the­17th­century­also featuring the ruins of the so-called Devil’s a Renaissance castle palace residence from the 16 century, also Ethnographic Park in Wygiełzów, where you can admire adjacent to the manor in Branice, featuring an exhibition of the Bridge. Church in Racławice dating from the 16th century, located known as “the Pearl of Jura.” Churches of the Wooden Archi­ historic wooden buildings, such as the small-town buildings, Archaeological Museum in Kraków devoted to prehistoric pottery. on the Wooden Architecture Route. tecture Route, in Wolbrom, Dłużec, Rodaki and Poręba Dzierżna. village architecture and sacred buildings.

6 7 Heritage Park in Dobczyce, photo by K. Bańkowski Ethnographic Park in Wygiełzów, photo by K. Bańkowski Heritage Parks Wygiełzów, Nadwiślański Ethnographic Park and Lipowiec Castle Dobczyce, Folk Architecture Heritage Park The buildings that make up the heritage park present the The heritage park in Dobczyce, although not very large, tradition and culture of Western Cracovians who once lived is extremely interesting. A number of historic 19th centu- here. Apart from interesting, beautifully restored examples ry wooden buildings are home to interesting exhibitions of rural and small-town architecture, you can also admire presenting local customs and tradition. Inside the funeral the wonderful 17th-century church from Ryczów (still used home, you can see various objects connected with old fu- for services), as well as the magnificent 18th-century manor neral rituals. The tavern houses an exhibition devoted to from Droginia. The heritage park features a total of 25 build- Market square in Lanckorona, photo by K. Bańkowski the region’s ethnography (customs, clothes, and applianc- ings and outbuildings (not including landscape architec- es), while the guild room presents local crafts (including ture) of high historic value located in green surroundings. Nadwiślański Ethnographic Park in Wygiezłów, photo by K. Bańkowski furriery, shoemaking, and pottery). Visit the poultry house The peasant homesteads with original furnishings are encir- Wooden Buildings to see a collection of farming tools. The coach house is par- cled by orchards and flower gardens, while the small-town ticularly interesting, as it features not only various types complex creates an enclave, whose character refers to old Lanckorona, Market Square of coaches, but also different sleighs and farming tools. market squares. An excellent tavern situated in one of the Lanckorona with its preserved 19th-century small-town sloping roofs have wide, protruding eaves that, looking ­After exploring the heritage park, which is situated on the historic buildings offers delicious regional dishes. architecture is an unforgettable place. Wooden one-sto- from the front, create an impression of picturesque ar- green Castle Hill, you can go to the ruins of the Dobczyce The heritage park hosts different events aimed at promot- rey houses surround the vast, sloping Market Square – the cade-like structures. The eaves also cover narrow pas­sages Castle. It is open to the public and admission is included ing local traditions. Another asset is the park’s location at centre of the town, since the time it received town char- between the buildings, called miedzuchy. One of the mar- in the same ticket. the foot of Lipowiec Hill, where you can visit the beautiful ter (14th century) – and ornament the adjacent streets. ket square houses, which by a strange twist of fate sur- ruins of a medieval castle. Most of the buildings were erected after the fire of 1869, vived the fire, houses the Regional Chamberpresenting ­ which consumed almost the entire town. The face exhibits connected with everyday lives of the ­region’s Nadwiślański Ethnographic Park and Lipowiec Ca- the market square or the streets, while their characteristic old inhabitants. Folk Architecture Heritage Park, Stare Miasto, stle, ul. Podzamcze 1, Wygiełzów, \+48 32 6134062, Professor A. Krajewski Regional Chamber, Dobczyce, \+48 12 2711176 or +48 518825830, =www.mnpe.pl, see website for prices. Rynek 133, Lanckorona, \+48 33 8763567, =www.zamek.dobczyce.pl, see website for prices. =www.gok.lanckorona.pl, see website for prices.

OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS Manor House in Stryszów housing a museum with an OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS exhibition of the interior décor of a 19th-century gentry house. Bobrek with the palace complex surrounded by a vast park Ruins of the Gothic Castle on Lanckorońska Mountain OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS and a pretty wooden farmstead granary. surrounded by several hiking routes. Churches in Gruszów, Łapanów, Krzesławice and Church in Mętków, located on the Wooden Architecture Route, Sanctuary in Kalwaria Zebrzydowska, inscribed on the Raciechowice, located on the Wooden Architecture Route. with beautiful late-Baroque furnishings. UNESCO World Heritage List.

8 9 Tarnów and its Surroundings

Koryznówka, Nowy Wiśnicz, photo by K. Syga

n the Tarnów area you will find more than 40 his- toric buildings which are part of the Wooden Ar- I chitecture Route. Undoubtedly, one of the most interesting and famous churches is St. Leonard’s Church in Lipnica Murowana, inscribed on the UNES- CO World Heritage List. Many more charming church- es have survived between the Raba and Wisłoka Riv- ers, e.g. small churches in the villages of Chronów, Gosprzydowa, Iwkowa, , Skrzyszów, Sobolów, Tymowa and Zawada. Some are especially worth rec- ommending, as they are open to visitors on particular days between May and September (see information on www.drewniana.malopolska.pl). When visiting Tarnów, capital of the region, tourists can admire two beautiful sacral buildings. The region also boasts well preserved historic mansions, now converted into mu- seums (in Dołęga and Nowy Wiśnicz), and wooden multi-use buildings. An excellent example of the lat- ter is the so-called Painted Village of Zalipie. St. Leonard’s Church in Lipnica Murowana, photo by K. Bańkowski

10 Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary on Burek Square, photo by K. Bańkowski Church of the Most Holy Trinity on Terlikówka in Tarnów, photo by A. Marciniak Churches Lipnica Murowana, St. Leonard’s Church, photo by S. Gacek Tarnów, Church of the Assumption Tarnów, Church of the Lipnica palms, photo by K. Bańkowski of the Blessed Virgin Mary on Burek Square Most Holy Trinity on Terlikówka Lipnica Murowana, St. Leonard’s Church One of the oldest wooden churches in Małopolska, the church The exact date of construction of the church on Terlików- The Lipnica church is one of the most famous historic build- 17th century, while those in the nave come from the 18th cen- was built in 1458, while the massive, square-shaped tower ka is unknown, but it is known that the church was built in ings in Małopolska. One of the oldest and best-preserved tury. Until recently, the interior was graced with three Goth- was added much later (at the beginning of the 20th century).­ the second half of the 16th century. In the 19th century, the wooden sacred buildings in the region, it was inscribed on the ic altars of extremely high historic value (from the 15th and The interior of this shapely, Gothic building is decorated with church came close to being torn down, as it was in danger UNESCO World Heritage List in 2003. The church was erected 16th centuries), which were unfortunately stolen. When they a delightful polychrome. The vault is covered with paintings­ of collapsing. Luckily, it was saved, as recalled by the inscrip- in the late 15th century, although according to local tradition, were retrieved, they were moved to the Diocesan Museum from the , but the northern wall of the chan- tion on the rood beam: Król cum plebe pia labentes corrogit it came into being in 1141, when a wooden church was alleg- in Tarnów, while the church received their copies. A rarity cel still has fragments of the earlier, 16th-and 17th-century aedes (“Król the then provost of the Tarnów Cathedral and edly built on the site of a pagan temple. Today, the small, com- is the 17th-century instrument – positive organ (a chest or- polychromes with plant motifs. The main altar feature the the people of God lift the collapsing church”). Today, the pact edifice merges with the beautiful surroundings, guard- gan instrument), which is used during summer concerts. 16th­centurypainting­ of the Virgin Mary with Infant , also shingle covered and boarded church looks stunning. The ed by mighty trees, surrounded by old cemetery graves. The known as Our Lady of the Scapular, which is famous among Baroque tower, crowned with an onion-shaped dome, adds church has survived in an almost unchanged form, except St. Leonard’s Church, Lipnica Murowana 39, the local population for its miraculous powers. to its charm. Also beautiful is the modest, whitewashed that, it was surrounded by arcatures in the 17th century, and \+48 14 6852601, =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl interior with a flat ceiling decorated with a 20th-century a western portal was added in the 19th century. Church on Burek, ul. Najświętszej Panny Marii 1, blue polychrome. The interior is breathtaking on account of an ornament and Tarnów, \+48 14 6213175, figural polychrome from different periods that occupies the =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl Church on Terlikówka, ul. Tuchowska 5, Tarnów, entire wall. The oldest decoration (that of the chancel vault Lipnica Easter Palms th \+48 14 6268885, from the end of the 15 century, and the nave vault from Each year on the Palm Sunday the market square in Lipnica th =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl the 16 century) was made with the use of special stencils, hosts a competition for the tallest and most beautiful palm. OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS known as patrons. Chancel wall paintings date back to the Local women adorn fir wood poles wrapped in wicker with col- Tarnów, also known as the “Pearl of Renaissance,” with a particularly ourful ribbons, crêpe paper flowers and catkins. Blessed palm beautiful Old Town boasting the Gothic-Renaissance Town Hall, trees, which sometimes as tall as 30 metres, are believed to pro- Renaissance tenement buildings and a 15th-century cathedral with tect sickness and guarantee good harvest. After the competi- a tombstone complex of extremely high historic value. tion, the elaborate palm compositions are placed on the mar- Szczepanów - according to tradition, the birthplace ket square and continue to grace it for another couple of weeks. of St. Stanislaus Bishop and Martyr. Dębno Castle Museum, a fortified residence from the 15th century.

12 13 Iwkowa, church of the Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary, photo by K. Bańkowski

Skrzyszów, Church of St. Stanislaus, photo by K. Syga Iwkowa, Church of Visitation Manor house in Dołęga, photo arch. MOT Koryznówka, Nowy Wiśnicz, photo by K. Syga of the Blessed Virgin Mary Skrzyszów, Church of St. Stanislaus The simple, small cemetery church in Iwkowa is one of the Wooden Buildings Church of St. Stanislaus Bishop and Martyr in Skrzyszów oldest wooden buildings in Małopolska. It was built at the was erected in 1517 and expanded in the 18th century by end of the 15th century (the exact date is unknown) and Dołęga, Manor House Nowy Wiśnicz, Koryznówka enlarging its nave and adding a pole tower with a brattice looks very enchanting, surrounded with gravestones and The old manor house in Dołęga will take you back to the A small manor house, known as Koryznówka was erected around the starling. At the end of the 18th century, the immersed in deep shadows of trees. The small edifice hides 19th-century life of landed gentry. On the outside, white- in the middle of the 19th century, above the Nowy Wiśnicz nave was expanded by adding two large chapels, a “femi- a delightful interior: the walls are decorated with late Renais- washed walls contrast beautifully with brown shingle, Castle. It houses the biographical museum of . nine” and a “masculine” one, forming a transept. The walls sance figural polychrome (1619), the chancel has a stained- while the furniture and equipment inside remind you Leonard Serafiński, the former owner of the house, was and ceilings of the church are covered with a Secession glass window (a copy, as the 15th-century original was trans- about the historic occupants of the residence and their a close friend and brother-in-law of the painter. Many of (modernist) polychrome from 1907 and the remains of old ferred to the Diocesan Museum in Tarnów), while the nave times (items inside include mementoes connected with Matejko’s drawings were created in Wiśnicz and they can polychromes: late Gothic painted around 1517 and Roco- still features two uniquely beautiful 15th-century portals the 1863 January Uprising). The larch wood manor house be seen in the museum. The manor house itself managed co from 1777. The oldest and most interesting elements of crowned with arches adorned with three-leaf motifs. On was erected in 1845. At the turn of the 19th and 20th cen- to survive in an almost intact condition. church furniture are late Gothic stalls in the chancel (late the rood beam, you can see sculptures of the Crucifixion turies, it was visited by Stanisław Wyspiański and Adam 15th and early 16th century), with carved crest of the Tar- group from the 14th and 15th centuries. Asnyk, among others. Some paintings by Wyspiański are Jan Matejko Museum, Stary Wiśnicz 278 nowski Family - Leliwa. displayed inside the manor house. Church of Visitation of the Blessed Virgin Mary, = www.muzeum.tarnow.pl Church of St. Stanislaus, Skrzyszów 1, Iwkowa, \+48 14 684 4327, see website for prices. Manor House in Dołęga, Dołęga 10, Zaborów \+48 14 674 5044, = www.drewniana.malopolska.pl =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl \+48 14 671 5414, =www.muzeum.tarnow.pl, see website for prices. OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS When visiting Iwkowa, it is worth tasting local prune dishes – OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS the region is famous for growing and drying this fruit. You can Wał - Ruda - the place of Operation Wildhorn III - one of the also walk along the local Prune Trail. most spectacular military operations conducted by the Home th OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS Czchów, with a Gothic church, the remains of a 13 century Army in WW2. OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS castle and historic architecture in the market square. Zabawa village with the of the Blessed Karolina The Nowy Wiśnicz Castle – a castle of the Kmita and Mount St. Martin with the historic church of St. Martin in Church in Tymowa dating from 1764, located on the Wooden Archi­ Kózkówna. Lubomirski magnate families, built as a pallazzo in fortezza, Zawada, located on the Wooden Architecture Route and ruins of th tecture Route, and featuring 18 -century, late Baroque furnishings. Odporyszów with the Museum of Jan Wnęk – a folk sculptor restored and open to the public. a Gothic castle from the first half of the 15th century. Tropsztyn Castle in Wytrzyszczka – a knights’ stronghold from and designer, located on the Wooden Architecture Route. Bochnia Salt Mine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site WW1 Military . the 14th century, situated on a beautiful hill by Czchowskie Lake.

14 15 Nowy Sącz and Gorlice Surroundings

Zalipie, photo by K. Syga Zalipie design, photo by K. Syga Zalipie, Painted Cottages , wooden buildings Zalipie, also known as the Painted Village, is famous for Several historic wooden buildings form the late 18th and its unusual decoration of wooden houses. Local house- early 19th century still stand on the Market Square in Zak- Sądecki Ethnographic Park, photo by K. Bańkowski wives-artists paint the walls of the houses and outbuild- liczyn. They remind us what the city looked like centuries ings, wells, fences and even dog kennels with fabulous, col- ago. Wooden, one-storey houses were erected with their he surroundings of Nowy Sącz and Gorlice are ourful flower motifs and ornaments. The custom of cottage roof peaks facing the market, with eaves supported by abut- a truly picturesque area that will delight you decoration has been cultivated in Zalipie since the end of ment poles. with its historic-cultural monuments. Over th T the 19 century. The village features over a dozen paint- 100 buildings in the area listed on the Wooden Archi- ed cottages, each painted in its own style, which guaran- tecture Route. Out of all the old churches, two church- tees to leave you impressed. The most famous local artist es in Binarowa and Sękowa, as well as four Orthodox was Felicja Curyłowa, whose cottage remains an extraor- churches in Brunary Wyżne, Kwiatoń, Owczary and dinary, wonderful example of Zalipie decoration style. To- Powroźnik are world-famous and have been inscribed day, her house is a museum-like space open to the public. on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The Lemko Or- OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS Each year during the first weekend following Corpus Chris- thodox churches (today often used by the Roman ti, Zalipie holds the Painted Cottage Competition, during Krzysztof Penderecki European Music Centre in Lusławice. ) are a specific feature of the region. which the most beautifully decorated cottage is selected. Ciężkowice with its quaint wooden houses on the main square Apart from the buildings inscribed on the UNESCO and an extraordinary nature reserve of Petrified City, with World Heritage List, it is worth visiting the Orthodox Cottage of Felicja Curyłowa, Zalipie 135, Olesno impressing rocks of unusual shapes and names. churches in Bartne, Bielanka, Binczarowa, Czarna, Ło- \+48 14 6411912, =www.muzeum.tarnow.pl, Jan Paderewski Manor in Kąśna Dolna. sie, Nowica, Skwirtne, Szczawnik, Uście Gorlickie, Wo- see website for prices. jkowa, Wysowa-Zdrój and Muszyna-Złockie. Some of these usually closed buildings are open to the public between May and September (see more information OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS on www.drewniana.malopolska.pl). Heritage parks Church in Dąbrowa Tarnowska, dating from 1771, located on the are another attraction of the region, particularly the Wooden Architecture Route, with beautiful furnishings from the magnificent Sądecki Ethnographic Park, but also oth- late 17th century, and a synagogue housing the Judaic Museum. er interesting parks in Stróże and Szymbark. Kryni- Road Architecture Museum in Szczucin, the only exhibition of ca-Zdrój boasts a unique atmosphere and beautiful this kind in Poland, devoted to the road and bridge construction 19th-century spa villas. techniques.

16 Binarowa, church of St. Michael the Archangel, photo by K. Bańkowski Sękowa, church of SS. Philip and Jacob the Apostles, photo by K. Bańkowski

Churches Brunary Wyżne, the Greek Catholic Church of St. Michael the Archangel, Bartne, Orthodox Church of SS. Cosmas and Damian, photo by K. Syga Binarowa, Church Sękowa, Church of SS. Philip photo by K. Bańkowski of St. Michael the Archangel and Jacob the Apostles Bartne, Greek Catholic and Orthodox The church in Binarowa, with walls and roofs covered with shin- It is impossible not to be delighted by the church in Sękowa. Lemko Orthodox churches Churches of SS. Cosmas and Damian gle, was erected ca. 1500. Its massive tower, narrowing toward The extremely tall, shingle-covered roof and wide arcatures, It is worth visiting the village of Bartne, as it is still inhab- its top, was added a hundred years later, as were the arcatures. together with the square-shaped tower with a domed hel- ited mostly by Lemkos. There are two Orthodox churches The interior of the church, all covered with paintings, makes met, create a picturesque postcard view. It is one of the most Brunary Wyżne, Parish Greek Catholic here, both dedicated to the same saints. The Greek Catholic a long-lasting impression. The polychrome on the vault dates beautiful churches in Małopolska, whose basic body was cre- Church of St. Michael the Archangel church, built in 1842, with shingled roofs and walls, houses back to the beginning of the 16th century, while wall paintings ated around 1520, and although the building was extensive- The Greek Catholic church in Brunary, currently used as a museum of Lemko church and folk art. The church beau- date from the 17th. The most precious furnishings are the Gothic ly damaged during , it was rescued, and eventu- Catholic Parish Church of the Assumption of the Blessed tifully merges with the landscape and is truly magnificent. sculptures and low reliefs in the altars, as well as the stone bap- ally it was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in Virgin Mary, was erected in 1797 and despite many trans- The interior is dominated by the 18th-century iconostasis. tismal font. Also stunning are the door fittings that remember 2003. The characteristically simple interior is very peaceful. formations, it has retained the most important features of The newer, still operating Orthodox Church was built in the the times when the building was constructed. In 2003, in appre- The only element with rich ornamentation is the late Renais- the Western Lemko Orthodox churches. The church is sit- years 1928–29 and represents a different style. It is towerless ciation of the church’s uniqueness, it was inscribed on the UNE- sance main altar. On the southern wall of the chancel, you uated on a small elevation at the Biała River and is encir- with walls boarded and roof covered with metal. The furnish- SCO World Heritage List. can still see fragments of 19th-century polychrome. cled by a small stone wall with gates. The chancel features ings include the 200-year-old iconostasis, transferred here the main altar with a canopy, while side altars dating from from a demolished Orthodox church in the region. the second half of the 18th century are located in the nave. The church boasts many icons of high artistic value, dat- Greek Catholic Church, Bartne, \+48 18 ing from the 18th and 19th centuries. The Orthodox church 3518454, was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2013. Orthodox Church, Bartne, \+48 18 3518454, Church of St. Michael the Archangel, Binarowa Church zSS. Philip and Jacob the Apostles, =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl 409, \+48 13 4476396, guide: 692 385244, Sękowa, \+48 18 3518169, =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl Greek Catholic Church of St. Michael the Arch- angel, Brunary Wyżne 45, Uście Gorlickie, \+48 18 3516776, OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl Biecz, known as “Small Kraków”, with a medieval defence OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS wall complex, a town hall with a beautiful Renaissance tower, Bartne with well-preserved wooden Lemko cottages, and a monumental Parish Church of Corpus Christi dating back OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS and a 19th-century stone granary with a stonework exhibition. to the late Gothic period. OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS Orthodox churches featured on Wooden Architecture Route Bartne is a good starting base for hiking trips in the vicinity and Ciężkowice with the wooden architecture in the market square Lemko Orthodox churches in the Low Beskid Mountains. in Czarna, Śnietnica and Banica. the nearby mountains. and an extraordinary Petrified City Nature Reserve. World War I cemeteries on the elevations around Sękowa. Locally famous beekeeping centre in Kamianna. Orthodox Church in Ropica Górna with its delightful architecture.

18 19 Owczary, Greek Catholic Church of the Protection of the Mother of God, Powroźnik, inside the Greek Catholic Church of St. James the Less, photo by K. Syga photo by R. Korzeniowski Orthodox church in Kwiatoń, photo by K. Bańkowski Owczary, Greek Catholic Church Powroźnik, Greek Catholic Church Orthodox church in Hańczowa, photo by K. Syga Kwiatoń, Parish Greek Catholic Church of the Protection of the Mother of God of St. James the Less of St. Parascheva The Orthodox church in Owczary (presently used by the Stunning with its beauty, the former Greek Catholic Church Hańczowa, Parish Greek Catholic Church It is one of the most beautiful Orthodox churches in Poland Roman Catholic and Greek Catholic parishes) is one of the in Powroźnik (currently a Roman Catholic church) is the old- of Protection of Mother of God (presently a Greek Catholic church) and a quintessential ex- oldest of Lemko churches, and one of the four Orthodox est Lemko Orthodox church in the Polish Carpathians, erect- The magnificent Greek Catholic Church in Hańczowa, with ample of the Lemko style (see p. 3). Its construction is es- churches in the region inscribed on the UNESCO World ed around 1600. Renovated numerous times, it was trans- a classical shape and shingled walls, was erected in the first timated to date back to the second half of the 17th centu- Heritage List. It was erected in 1653, which is noted by the ferred to its present location in 1814 after the flood. Three half of the 19th century. In 1956 it was saved from demo- ry, while the tower was added later in the 18th century. The date carved in the western portal of the nave. The body of onion-shaped domes crown the tented roofs rising above lition and later renovated. The restored interior features body consists of 3 distinctive elements and rises up gradu- the building is profoundly beautiful. The polygonal roofs the three-part interior. The rich furnishings include the in- a magnificent iconostasis dating from the late 19th cen- ally: from the lowest chancel, through the higher nave up crowned with onion-shaped helmets with false lanterns complete iconostasis dating from the years 1743-44, a Ba- tury, as well as an ornament and figural polychrome. The to the dominating, lofty tower. Each element is covered by are visible from afar. The church also boasts furnishings roque side altar from the 18th century, and many icons of high church premises are surrounded by a wooden fence with a roof with a characteristic onion-shaped dome. The roofs of high artistic value, particularly the 18th century iconos- artistic value, such as Last Judgement from 1623. The sacristy integrated characteristic gates (from 1811 and 1871). The and walls are shingled. The interior still holds rich furnish- tasis. The church premise is encircled by a stone wall with features the 1607 figure polychrome of high historic value. tower is decorated with painted clock faces. The church is ings from the 19th and 20th centuries. The polychrome and a stone gate belfry. The church is one of the four wooden Orthodox churches in currently used by the Hańczowa parish. wall paintings imitating marble columns and cornices add Małopolska inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. charm to the interior. The Greek Catholic church was in- Orthodox Church of the Protection of the Moth- Greek Catholic Church of Protection of the Moth- scribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2013. er of God, Owczary, \ Sękowa Parish (Sękowa 13) Church of St. James the Less, Powroźnik 50, Mu- er of God, Hańczowa 56, Wysowa, \+48 18 3532124, +48 18 3518169, =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl szyna, \+48 18 4711644, =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl Greek Catholic Church of St. Parascheva, =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl Kwiatoń, \+48 18 3530720, =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS Orthodox Church in Bielanka dating from ca. 1773, Wooden Orthodox churches in Wojkowa and Jastrzębik, Main Beskid Trail, passing through Hańczowa is ideal OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS located on the Wooden Architecture Route, features a very located on the Wooden Architecture Route. for short and long hikes. Orthodox Church in Skwirtne dating from 1837, located beautiful iconostasis (1783). Muszyna – an old town with picturesque architecture, situated Wysowa-Zdrój, a health resort with a beautiful on the Wooden Architecture Route, is one of the most beautiful Mountain Chalet Hostel on Magura Małastowska, which in the deep valley at the confluence of the Poprad and Muszynka Orthodox church. Western Lemko Orthodox churches. can be reached by taking a walk from Owczary. Rivers, at the foot of the hill with medieval castle ruins.

20 21 Wooden Architecture Krynica-Zdrój, Wooden Architecture Known as “the Pearl of Polish health resorts”, Krynica lies in the eastern part of Beskid Sądecki, in the Kryniczanka Stream Valley. It is one of Poland’s most famous health resorts, which, apart from its location, owes its unique character to its delight- ful wooden architecture and mineral waters. 23 mineral water intakes with the most popular “Kryniczanka” are the local nat- ural treasure, available in many stylish pump rooms. The resort development after 1856 was connected with the activity of Józef Dietl – a professor of the Jagiellonian Univer- sity, known as the father of Polish balneology. This period saw the construction of facilities such as the Old Mineral Baths, the Spa House and the beautiful, wooden Main Pump Room with a promenade. Krynica’s most beautiful wooden houses, featur- ing elaborate wood carving, were built in the second half of the th Stróże, fot. K. Syga 19 century, as a result of a large influx of patients. Magnificent­ Folk Architecture Heri­tage Park in Szymbark, photo by K. Bańkowski villas with references to the architecture of Alpine health resorts Heritage parks usually had spacious front porches supported by pillars and one or two levels of balconies. The elevations were enriched with Szymbark, Folk Architecture Heritage Park Stróże, Beekeeping Museum various bay windows, turrets and verandas. Many interesting The Szymbark Heritage Park has a lot to offer, despite its small This small heritage park is a wonderful source of knowledge buildings still stand by the Dietla Boulevard, i.e. Biała Róża (af- Witoldówka Villa in Krynica-Zdrój, photo by K. Bańkowski size. It presents the little-known folk culture of the Gorlice Po- about beekeeping. Apart from the interesting, extensive col- ter 1855), Biały Orzeł (ca. 1857), Kosynier (1880), Romanówka gorzans, and the idyllic landscape underlines the assets of the lection of hives (over 100) of various types (log, figural, frame, (around mid 19th century), Węgierska Korona (ca. 1880), Wisła th historic monuments. The collected buildings include cottag- straw, including even hives from Africa),­ you can also see bee- Nowy Sącz, Sądecki Ethnographic Park (the second half of the 19 century), and Witoldówka (1888). The es, cowsheds, a barn, a smithy, grain mills, an oil mill, a hand keeping tools and accessories, while the museum guide will beautiful Romanówka Villa houses the Nikifor Museum, where The park in Nowy Sącz is one of the most beautiful herit- weaver’s cottage and a pottery furnace. Most of the structures keep you interested with the history of beekeeping and the you can admire the works of the ingenious primitivist painter, age parks in Poland. This is to a large extent thanks to its date back to the 19th and 20th centuries and contain original application of individual items. Children can use the “Bee vil- Epifaniusz Drowniak (1895–1968), known as Nikifor Krynicki. In thematic variety. The area showcases both sacred buildings furnishing. The park also holds presentations of the work of lage” playground and a mini zoo (featuring such animals as the Słotwiński Park, you can also see the oldest spa facility of (a magnificent 17th-century Lemko Orthodox church or the craftsmen cultivating old traditions. Next to the open air mu- sheep, goats, donkeys, ponies, Carpathian horses, and vari- the resort – the wooden Słotwinka Pump Room. 16th-century Catholic church from Łososina Dolna), and ex- seum we can see a 16th Century fortified stone manor house ous bird species). Also noteworthy is the Bartna Chata tavern Krynica is an extraordinary town: apart from its wonderful amples of diverse rural architecture (including a 17th-cen- built by the Gładysz Family and a bourgeois manor house and a shop selling local bee products. You can find accommo- microclimate, mineral waters, and beautiful wooden archi- tury gentry manor house, cottages, and farm buildings). moved from Gorlice. dation at “Grandma Mary’s” with an interesting old interior. tecture, alluding to the so-called Swiss style, it also offers cul- There are also buildings recalling the heritage of other eth- In Szymbark we see two more monuments of Wooden Ar- tural events, such as the annual Jan Kiepura Festival, held in nic groups from the multi-cultural Nowy Sącz region: Ger- chitecture Route, including a small church of St. Adalbert August, attended by guests from all over the world. mans, Jews and the Carpathian Roma. The restored German built in 1782, with its shingled walls and roofs (the nave and Beekeeping Museum, Stróże 235, \+48 18 414 0579, The town is also an ideal starting point for hiking trips, for in- settlement is one of the park’s largest attractions. Adjacent the chancel have a separate roofing), and the brick sacristy. =www.bartnik.pl, see website for prices. stance along the Jaworzyna Krynicka Range trails, as well as to the part is the Galician Small Town with typical Galician The church is towerless, but the ornamented gable of the a wonderful winter ski resort. The town features the Jaworzy- architecture. façade is noteworthy. The furnishing dates from the 18th and na Krynicka cable car and numerous ski slopes. 19th centuries.

Professor Roman Reinfuss Folk Architecture Heri­ OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS Sądecki Ethnographic Park – Branch of the District Wooden Orthodox Churches in Tylicz and Muszynka, tage Park, Szymbark, \+48 18 3511018, Museum in Nowy Sącz, entrances from ul. Lwowska =www.muzeum.gorlice.pl, see website for prices. located on the Wooden Architecture Route. 226, Nowy Sącz, \+48 18 4443570 or 18 4414412 Muszyna is a health resort with delightful, wooden The Church of St. Adalbert the Bishop, = ext. 106, www.muzeum.sacz.pl, see website small-town architecture located on the Wooden Architecture Szymbark 315, \+48 18 3513013, for prices. =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl Route, as well as fragments of medieval castle walls that constitute an excellent vantage point.

22 23 Podhale, Orava, Spisz and the Pieniny Mountains

Zakopane, Jaszczurówka, photo by K. Bańkowski

he picturesque landscapes of Orava, Podhale, Spisz and Pieniny hide numerous pearls of archi- Ttecture, while the Wooden Architecture Route al- lows you to see almost 50 most interesting of the build- ings. Local sacred cultural heritage of the region looks particularly interesting, as the silhouettes of shingled churches beautifully harmonise with the mountain landscape. The best-known wooden church in the re- gion is the one in Dębno, inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, although other churches are no less sophisticated in terms of woodwork. Some of the churches are open the public between May and Sep- tember, for instance, the churches in Bukowina Ta- trzańska, Grywałd, Jurgów, Lachowice, Łopuszna, and Nowy Targ (for more information go to www.drewni- ana.malopolska.pl). The mountain region also boasts some interesting, locally diverse examples of rural ar- chitecture. Some beautiful Podhale region cottages can be seen in the village of Chochołów, while the heritage park in Zubrzyca Górna has some charac- teristic Orava style buildings. One uniquely charming town is Szczawnica, with its characteristic spa villas in the Swiss-Tyrolean, while in Zakopane, visitors can admire houses built in the style created by Stanisław Witkiewicz. Zakopane, Jaszczurówka, photo by K. Bańkowski

24 Nowy Targ, cemetery Church of St. Anne, photo by J. Gorlach Orawka, Church of St. John the Baptist, photo by M. Rauer

Dębno, church of St. Michael the Archangel, photo by K. Syga Grywałd, church of St. Martin, photo by J. Gorlach Nowy Targ, Cemetery Church of St. Anne Orawka, Church of St. John the Baptist Churches The beginnings of the Nowy Targ Church of St. Anne are Church of St. John the Baptist in Orawka, was built in 1650- quite mysterious and unknown. Folk legends claim it was 1659. The construction was started by the first local par- Dębno, Parish Church built at the beginning of the 13th century (the inscription ish priest, Fr. Jan Szczechowicz. Log building was covered of St. Michael the Archangel Grywałd, Auxiliary Church of St. Martin above the chancel says 1219, but there is no evidence that with shingles. The chancel was enlarged in 1728 with a Encircled by old trees, the wooden church in Dębno, known The small church in Grywałd is yet another wooden build- this is the year of the construction), but the second half of brick chapel of Our Lady of Sorrows. The church boasts as the Pearl of Podhale, dates back to the 15th century. The ex- ing of high historic value in the Podhale region. It dates the 15th century seems much more realistic. The church, rich polychrome from the second half of the 17th century act date of construction is unknown, but it is assumed to be back to the second half of the 15th century, and despite rising on a small, yet steep hill, has undergone several al- and from 1771, adorning the walls and parts of furniture. 1490. The tower, crowned with a pyramid-shaped dome, was numerous reconstructions, it has retained its Gothic form terations, but managed to maintain the harmony of its It depicts various thematic groups, with the most beautiful added in 1601. The stylish, harmonious body of the church and character. A massive tower with a wide base, bring- body. It looks very enchanting, on account of its tall, shin- showing 12 paintings with scenes from the life of St. John hides magnificent, unique polychromes from the turn of the ing some military character to the building, was added to gled roof and a younger, most probably 18th-century tow- the Baptist and the Decalogue. The late Baroque altar with 15th and 16th centuries. Colourful decorative paintings featur- the modestly sized main body of the church. The shingled er crowned with an onion-shaped dome. The interior is the Pieta and the statues of St. St. Wojciech and Stanislaus ing different motifs cover all ceilings and walls (except for the church blends beautifully with the landscape – it occupies decorated with paintings from 1880, while furnishings in- are worth admiring. whitewashed fragments of nave walls), and even the choir a small hill, standing at a certain distance from the village clude items from different periods. The late Baroque main platform, the and the benches. The polychrome was buildings. Its charm is intensified by the surrounding field- altar features paintings of high artistic value, dating from Church of St. John the Baptist, Orawka 65, created with the use of stencils, while the width of the strip stone wall. The interior is decorated with wall paintings dat- the turn of the 15th and 16th centuries. \ +48 18 2652340, corresponds with the wall logs and ceiling planks. The church ing back to the beginning of the 17th century, while the late = www.drewniana.malopolska.pl has furnishings of high value. Particularly noteworthy is the Gothic triptych from the beginning of the 16th century is St. Anna’s Church, Nowy Targ, \Parish (ul. Ko- Gothic main altar – a painted triptych from the 16th centu- the furnishing element of highest value. ścielna 1): +48 18 266 67 50, ry, and the 14th-century tabernacle, and crucifix on the rood =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl beam. In appreciation of the unique nature of the church, it Auxiliary Church of St. Martin, ul. Kościelna 1, was inscribed it on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2003. Grywałd, \+48 18 262 3827, =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS Church of St. Michael the Archangel, ul. Kościelna 42,­ Dębno, \+48 18 2751797, Nowy Targ, St. Catherine’s Church dating from 1346 is the oldest =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS existing church in Podhale, Market Square surrounded by historic Pieniny National Park offers numerous hiking and cycling tenement buildings, and the 19th-century Town Hall. Nowy Targ OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS routes, as well as its main attraction – rafting trips down is a good starting point for hiking, cycling, skiing and canoeing. Open air museum in Zubrzyca Górna, depicting the life in OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS the Dunajec River. Sanctuary of Our Lady the Queen of Podhale in Ludźmierz, the Polish Orava area from 18th to 20th century. The museum Białka Gorge Nature Reserve offering a wonderful hiking Castle in Czorsztyn and the Castle in Niedzica, situated with a wonderful figure of the Our Lady of Ludźmierz from the showcases small rural industrial companies, such as oil mill, area surrounded by great nature. on the opposite sides of Czorsztyńskie Lake. 15th century and a beautiful rosary garden. fulling mill, sawmill and smithy.

26 27 Museum of the Zakopane Style – Koliba Villa, photo by K. Bańkowski Pod Jedlami Villa, photo by K. Bańkowski Chabówka, Church of the Holy Cross, photo arch. MOT Church of St. Mary Magdalene in Rabka-Zdrój, photo by K. Bańkowski design, it is marked by a high, granite underpinning and Wooden Architecture a soaring silhouette. The shingled with a char- Chabówka, Church of the Holy Cross Rabka-Zdrój, Church of St. Mary Magdalene acteristic, lofty tower features “rising sun” decorative motifs Church of the Holy Cross in Chabówka was built in 1757 – Władysław Orkan Museum Zakopane, Zakopane-style Villas on the top. The unusual simplicity of the interior delights on the site of a former chapel, founded by Jan Wielopol- The most conspicuous element of this church (built in 1606) Wooden Tatra villas built in the Zakopane style are the gems with its rich wood carving decoration. The stained-glass win- ski, Governor of Sandomierz. It was partially destroyed is its mighty tower. Added in the middle of the 18th century, of architecture. They owe their form to Stanisław Witkiew- dows of the chancel were designed by Witkiewicz, while the by fire in 1994 but was soon rebuilt. The church has a log it has an exceptionally large, onion-shaped dome, character- icz, painter, writer and architect, fascinated by highland art, wood-carved main altar is stylised to resemble the fronts of structure with the chancel and nave partially encircled istic for this period. Despite numerous reconstructions, the who creatively transformed the elements of traditional ar- highland cottages, also in accordance with Witkiewicz’s will. by arcatures. The walls and ceilings are adorned by poly- church has maintained its original silhouette and is one of the chitecture and adornment, bringing to life the style that to- chrome with figural, ornamental and architectural mo- churches of highest historic value on the part of the Wood- day is admired by many. Houses erected in accordance with Chapel of the Most Sacred Heart of Jesus on tifs, painted in 1901. The polychrome underwent main- en Architecture Route. Even before World War II, it featured the aesthetic qualities devised by Witkiewicz are set on high, Jaszczurówka, \+48 18 2061019 (Parish of the tenance and was enriched with new elements in 1975. a museum exposition. The interior is decorated with a beau- square stone underpinning and have steep, shingled roofs. Divine Mercy, ul. Cyrhla 37), Zakopane, a gallery Original late Baroque furniture was destroyed by fire and tiful Rococo-Classical polychrome from 1802 and still features Their distinctive features include huge verandas, cov- of glass paintings, information on current gallery was subsequently partially reconstructed. furnishings from the 18th and 19th centuries. The museum part ered with separate roofs and beautiful, opulent wood carv- exhibition on =www.cyrhla.wiara.org.pl showcases interesting regional ethnographic collections. Par- ing decorations. The first villa erected in accordance with the Church of the Holy Cross, Chabówka, ticularly interesting are the items connected with pottery and Zakopane style, the Koliba Villa from 1892, presently houses \+48 18 2678150, smithery, which have a long-lasting tradition in Rabka, as well the Museum of the Zakopane Style. Other beautiful exam- as a huge collection of religious items created by folk artists. ples of this style include the Pod Jedlami Villa (on Koziniec), =www.drewniana.malopolska.pl OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS Atma (the Museum of Karol Szymanowski, ul. Kasprusie 19) Władysław Orkan Museum, ul. Sądecka 6, Rabka- and Witkiewiczówka Villa (Droga na Antałówkę 6). Gubałówka Mountain, which you can reach by funicular -Zdrój, \+48 18 2676747, =www.muzeumorkana.pl, rail, is an ideal vantage point for views of Zakopane with see website for prices. Museum of the Zakopane Style in the Koliba Vil- a breathtaking panorama of the Tatras. la, ul. Kościeliska 18, Zakopane, \+48 18 2013602, Morskie Oko – the most beautiful mountain lake, which you =www.muzeumtatrzanskie.pl, see website for can easily reach by following an asphalt road. You will also OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS prices. find the oldest Stanisław Staszic Polish Tourist and Sightseeing Rolling Stock open air museum in Chabówka, where you OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS Society (PTTK) mountain chalet hostel here. can see various railway equipment, such as steam locomotives, Gorce and Island Beskids, a perfect site for hiking trips from Rabka; Another example of the Zakopane style is the beautiful Chap- Rusinowa Polana located near Jaszczurówka, with a charming diesel and electric cars and railroad equipment. The museum hikes on Luboń Wielki and Turbacz are particularly recommended. el of the Most Sacred Heart of Jesus on Jaszczurówka. wooden Chapel of Our Lady of Jaworzyna, the Queen offers “retro” train trips. Erected in the early 20th century, according to Witkiewicz’s of the Tatras.

28 29 Rome Tavern, photo by M. Rauer Heritage Park in Zubrzyca Górna, photo by K. Syga Heritage parks Sucha Beskidzka, Rome Tavern Zubrzyca Górna, Orava Ethnographic Park The tavern in Sucha Beskidzka dates back to the 18th centu- The heritage park in Zubrzyca is a place with a soul. The ry. Local legend has it that this is where Master Twardowski vast area, resembling a picturesque landscape park, fea- was abducted by the Devil and taken to the Moon, which tures a diverse collection of examples of the Orava archi- was described by in his ballad Mrs. Twar- tecture. The most characteristic buildings are cottages with dowska. The magnificent, wooden building is very pictur- an extra storey featuring an attic chamber, serving a farm esque: based on the stone underpinning, it has a shingled function (usually used as a granary). The upper storey is hip roof with characteristic arcades on the front side. As surrounded with a gallery, which can be reached by stairs befits a proper tavern, it ornaments the square, while re- located outside the building. Other interesting buildings Chochołów, photo by K. Bańkowski Wooden spa buildings in Szczawnica, photo by K. Bańkowski gional food is served in the traditionally decorated interior. include a smithy, a lumber mill, a fulling mill and an oil mill. There is also a beautiful apiary with interesting types of Chochołów, Folk Architecture Complex Szczawnica, Spa Architecture hives. Most residential buildings house theme exhibitions Rome Tavern, Rynek 1, Sucha Beskidzka, \+48 33 One of the most picturesque towns of the Podhale re- This beautifully situated health resort is known not only presenting the daily life in the Orava region. The magnifi- 8742797, = www.karczma-rzym.com gion – Chochołów – is famous for not only its location, for its therapeutic waters, but also for its historic wooden cent Moniak Manor from the turn of the 17th and 18th cen- but also its well-preserved wooden architecture from the architecture. The 19th-century villas and guesthouses pre- turies houses an exhibition of 19th-century appliances, fur- turn of the 18th and 19th centuries. The houses, built of flat served in the spa district of the health resort bear resem- niture and kitchenware. logs in the Podhale style, are arranged closely side by side, blance to the Swiss style. They usually have two or three with their tops facing the road. Each Easter, local farmers’ storeys, numerous verandas, porches and towers, as well Renaissance Castle in Sucha Beskidzka from the 16th century, wives scrub the houses using soapy water, which gives as rich wood carving decoration. The area around Dietle known as “the Small Wawel”. Orava Ethnographic Park, Zubrzyca Górna, the logs their characteristic, bright colour. One of the most Square with the most beautiful spa buildings is particu- Small Church in Lachowice from 1789, located on the Wooden \+48 18 2852709, =www.orawa.eu, see web- beautiful cottages in Chochołów is no. 24. Its front wall was larly atmospheric. Architecture Route. site for prices. made of a single, huge fir trunk, hence its name the single fir cottage. It is also worth visiting the Regional Chamber, which presents highland folklore. OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS Jaworki and Szlachtowa, villages situated in the Grajcarek OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS River Valley, once belonged to Shlakhtov Ruthenians, who left Babia Mount is the highest peak of the West Beskids, OTHER LOCAL ATTRACTIONS behind beautiful brick Orthodox churches. which you can climb from the Krowiarki Pass. Church in Witów from the 20th century, located on Biała Woda and Homole Gorge Nature Reserves are The village of Orawka and its 17th-century wooden church, the Wooden Architecture Route. excellent places for walks. famous for the beautiful polychrome are worth seeing.

30 31 Małopolska Tourist Information www.visitmalopolska.pl System Points www.muzea.malopolska.pl

KraKów rabKa-zDrój wygiełzów InfoKraków, ul. Powiśle 11, ul. Parkowa 2, 34-700 Rabka-Zdrój ul. Podzamcze 1, 32-551 Babice 31-101 Kraków, \+48 12 354 27 10 \+48 18 269 15 53 \+48 32 210 93 13 (Seasonal) [email protected] [email protected] info@-chrzanowski.pl www.infokrakow.pl [email protected], www.rabka.pl www.visit.powiat-chrzanowski.pl www.rabkazdroj.visitmalopolska.pl InfoKraków, ul. św. Jana 2, 31-018 Kraków nowy sącz \+48 12 354 27 25, [email protected] białKa TaTrzańsKa ul. Szwedzka 2, 33-300 Nowy Sącz InfoKraków, ul. Józefa 7, 31-056 Kraków ul. Środkowa 179A, 34-405 Białka Tatrzańska \+48 18 444 24 22 \+48 12 354 27 28, [email protected] \+48 18 533 19 59 [email protected] InfoKraków Sukiennice [email protected] www.ziemiasadecka.info Rynek Główny 1/3, 31-042 Kraków ugbukowinatatrzanska.pl Krynica-zDrój \+48 12 354 27 16 biały Dunajec ul. Zdrojowa 4/2, 33-380 Krynica-Zdrój [email protected] ul. Jana Pawła II 363, 34-425 Biały Dunajec \+48 18 472 55 77 InfoKraków, ul. Szpitalna 25, 31-024 Kraków \+48 18 200 16 90 [email protected] \+48 12 354 27 20 [email protected] www.krynicazdroj.visitmalopolska.pl [email protected] www.gokbialydunajec.pl liManowa InfoKraków Pawilon Wyspiańskiego Rynek 25, 34-600 Limanowa pl. Wszystkich Świętych 2, 31-004 Kraków wiTów Witów 239A, 34-512 Witów \+48 18 337 58 00 \+48 12 354 27 23 [email protected] [email protected] \+48 18 207 18 98 [email protected] www.powiat.limanowa.pl InfoKraków Międzynarodowy Port www.koscielisko.com.pl Lotniczy w Balicach, 32-083 Balice biecz \+48 12 285 53 41 buKowina TaTrzańsKa Rynek 1, 38-340 Biecz [email protected] ul. Sportowa 22, 34-530 Bukowina Tatrzańska \+48 13 447 92 47 \+48 18 202 54 80 [email protected] Myślenice www.biecz.visitmalopolska.pl Rynek 27, 32-400 Myślenice [email protected] \+48 12 272 23 12 www.bukowina_tatrzanska.visitmalopolska.pl sęKowa [email protected] Siary 19, 38-307 Sękowa ochoTnica górna www.myslenice.visitmalopolska.pl \+48 18 351 87 70 Osiedle Ustrzyk 388, 34-453 Ochotnica Górna [email protected] Dobczyce \+48 18 262 41 39 www.sekowa.pl ul. Podgórska 1, 32-410 Dobczyce [email protected] www.ssm.ochotnica.pl \+48 12 271 01 53 waDowice [email protected] nieDzica ul. Kościelna 4, 34-100 Wadowice www.dobczyce.visitmalopolska.pl ul. Widokowa 3, 34-441 Niedzica \+48 33 873 23 65 wiśniowa \+48 18 261 01 31 [email protected] Wiśniowa 301, 32-412 Wiśniowa [email protected] [email protected] www.it.wadowice.pl \+48 12 271 44 93 Tarnów [email protected] Rynek 7, 33-100 Tarnów anDrychów www.ug-wisniowa.pl \+48 14 688 90 90 Rynek 27, 34-120 Andrychów [email protected] olKusz \+48 33 842 99 36 www.tarnow.travel ul. Floriańska 8, 32-300 Olkusz [email protected] www.andrychow.eu \+48 32 642 19 26 Dąbrowa TarnowsKa [email protected] ul. Polna 13, 33-200 Dąbrowa Tarnowska sucha besKiDzKa www.olkusz.visitmalopolska.pl \+48 14 657 00 07 ul. Zamkowa 1, 34-200 Sucha Beskidzka [email protected] \+48 33 874 26 05 Miechów www.visitmalopolska.pl/DabrowaTarnowska Plac Kościuszki 1A, 32-200 Miechów [email protected] [email protected] \+48 41 383 13 11 Tuchów [email protected] ul. Chopina 10, 33-170 Tuchów www.muzeum.sucha-beskidzka.pl/it www.miechow.visitmalopolska.pl \+48 14 652 54 36 Kalwaria zebrzyDowsKa [email protected] wieliczKa ul. Mickiewicza 4, 34-130 Kalwaria Zebrzydowska www.tuchow.pl ul. Dembowskiego 2A, 32-020 Wieliczka \+48 33 876 66 36 \+48 12 288 00 52 bochnia [email protected] [email protected] ul. Solna 2, 32-700 Bochnia www.kalwaria_zebrzydowska.visitmalopolska.pl www.ckit.wieliczka.eu \+ 48 14 615 36 36 KrościenKo naD DunajceM [email protected] zaKopane Rynek 35, 34-450 Krościenko nad Dunajcem www.bochnia.eu ul. Kościeliska 7, 34-500 Zakopane \ 511 473 203, +48 18 262 30 77 wew. 32 \+48 18 201 20 04 oświęciM www.kroscienko-nad-dunajcem.pl [email protected] ul. St. Leszczyńskiej 12, 32-600 Oświęcim [email protected] www.zakopane.pl \+48 33 843 00 91 [email protected] nowy Targ www.it.oswiecim.pl Rynek 1, 34-400 Nowy Targ \+48 18 266 30 36 chrzanów [email protected] Aleja Henryka 40, 32-500 Chrzanów www.it.nowytarg.pl \+48 32 623 20 44 [email protected] poronin www.visitmalopolska.pl/chrzanow ul. Józefa Piłsudskiego 2, 34-520 Poronin \+48 18 207 42 98 Trzebinia [email protected] ul. Kościuszki 74, 32-540 Trzebinia www.poronin.pl \+48 32 611 08 37 [email protected] www.trzebinia.visitmalopolska.pl

32 Wooden Architecture Route МАŁOPOLSKA

 14 UNESCO World Heritage List sites  255 attractions on the Wooden Architecture Route  Wadowice – town of birth of Pope John Paul II  Salt mines in Wieliczka and Bochnia  9 spa resorts  6 national parks  6 geothermal pools  Rafting down the Dunajec gorge  2600 km of bicycle trails  3360 km of mountain trails  65 ski stations

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The project has been funded by Małopolska Region