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Downloadable App with Guidelines on How to Camp, Including Everything from Wildlife Safety to Campfire Recipes Walking the wild coast: territory, belonging and tourism on the West Coast Trail by Lauren Harding M.A., York University 2010 B.A., University of Alberta, 2006 A THESIS SUBMITTED IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY in THE FACULTY OF GRADUATE AND POSTDOCTORAL STUDIES (Anthropology) THE UNIVERSITY OF BRITISH COLUMBIA (Vancouver) September 2020 © Lauren Harding, 2020 The following individuals certify that they have read, and recommend to the Faculty of Graduate and Postdoctoral Studies for acceptance, the dissertation entitled: Walking the wild coast: territory, belonging and tourism on the West Coast Trail submitted by Lauren Harding in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in Anthropology Examining Committee: Carole Blackburn, Associate Professor, Anthropology Supervisor Gaston Gordillo, Professor, Anthropology Supervisory Committee Member Coll Thrush, Professor, History Supervisory Committee Member Bruce Miller, Professor, Anthropology University Examiner Renisa Mawani, Professor, Sociology University Examiner ii ABSTRACT This dissertation describes the results of ethnographic research on the wilderness tourist attraction known as the West Coast Trail on Vancouver Island, British Columbia. It investigates settler-colonial views of and experiences in a space that is claimed by the Canadian state and is also part of the traditional territories of indigenous peoples. The entanglement of wilderness tourism and settler-colonialism is analyzed in the contemporary Canadian context where, it is argued, Canadian nationalism and indigenous reconciliation are in conflict. Particular attention is paid to the complex ways a space is constructed as wilderness (and therefore a-cultural and a- historical) through both material and representational actions of the settler-colonial state. The trail is a 75 kilometre backcountry hiking trail managed as the West Coast Trail Unit of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. It is co-managed by Parks Canada and the Huu-ay-aht, Ditidaht and Pacheedaht First Nations. Fieldwork was conducted from 2013-2014, where the investigator based herself in the settler community of Bamfield and repeatedly hiked the length of the trail interacting with both visitors and locals. Qualitative data was collected through interviews and participant observation with both locals living on and near the trail and hikers recreating in the national park. This thesis posits that Canadian settler-colonialism venerates not only idealized images of a national landscape but also the active engagement with nature through recreation. It is contended that within this active, corporeal, and material engagement there is potential for challenges to static colonial narratives of wilderness that mask Indigenous territory. iii LAY SUMMARY This dissertation explores how settler-Canadian domestic tourists relate to the territory claimed by the Canadian state and popularly described as wilderness. The researcher lived, hiked, camped, interviewed, shared meals and generally hung out with both visitors and locals on the West Coast Trail Unit of Pacific National Park Reserve on Vancouver Island from 2013-2014, over two hiking seasons. This wilderness tourist attraction crosses the traditional territories of the Huu-ay-aht, Ditidaht and Pacheedaht First Nations. The research investigates how and why territory occupied continuously by indigenous peoples for millennia came to be celebrated by Canadians as remote and pristine wilderness. The author contends that wilderness is a problematic label for an area that has a complex human history and remains a distinctly cultural space. It explores the meanings held in Canadian domestic tourism and how contemporary experiences of hikers both complicate and uphold the idea of the trail as wilderness. iv PREFACE Research for this project was conducted from February of 2013 until August of 2014. The primary research method was participant observation, with archival research in the Royal British Columbia Archives, the Port Alberni Museum archives, and the Bamfield Historical Society archives used as a supplementary source. Permissions for this research were granted by the Parks Canada agency, the Huu-ay-aht First Nation, and the Ditidaht First Nation. All research was conducted and analyzed by the author. This research was approved by the University of British Columbia Behaviourial Research Ethics Board, Certificate H12-03664. Please note that portions of research and data described in the introduction and chapter 3 were published in "Agency and agendas: Revisiting the roles of the researcher and the researched in ethnographic fieldwork." Anthropologica 59, no. 1 (2017): 145-156, co-authored by Rhiannon Mosher, Jennifer Long and Elisabeth Le. Research and data from Chapters 2 and 3 were published as "‘This isn't Canada, it’s Home’: Re-claiming Colonized Space through the Host-Guest Relationship." Ethnoscripts 21, no. 1 (2019). TABLE OF CONTENTS Abstract ....................................................................................................................................................... iii Lay Summary ............................................................................................................................................. iv Preface .......................................................................................................................................................... v Table of Contents ....................................................................................................................................... vi List of Figures ........................................................................................................................................... viii Acknowledgements .................................................................................................................................... ix Dedication .................................................................................................................................................... x Chapter 1: Introduction ............................................................................................................................. 1 Chapter 2: At the End of the Road .......................................................................................................... 20 2.1 Outposts in the Wilderness ............................................................................................................... 23 2.2 A Maritime Environment .................................................................................................................. 28 2.3 Place-names and Porous Boundaries ................................................................................................ 35 2.4 Colonial Beacons ....................................................................................................................... 41 2.5 The Return to Anacla ................................................................................................................. 48 Chapter 3 Nature-Nationalism and the Pilgrimage into Wilderness ................................................... 54 3.1 Backcountry/Frontcountry and Backstage/Frontstage ............................................................... 77 3.2 Clo-oose: The Vanished Village of the West Coast Trail ......................................................... 85 Chapter 4 Why are we still in the way? ................................................................................................ 103 4.1“This isn't Canada, it's Home”: Selling Burgers at Qua-ba-diwa .................................................... 111 4.2 Trail Guardians and an Oral Heritage ............................................................................................. 124 Chapter 5: You Got Balls, Girl! Dirty Female Bodies and Matter out of Place ................................ 139 5.1 Whence “All the Women”? ..................................................................................................... 145 5.2 “It’s okay to be stinky. That’s one of the first things you learn” ............................................. 157 Chapter 6: “Blisters and Bliss:” Wild Affect and Weather-worlds.................................................... 166 6.1 Scenic Expectations and Uncomfortable Sensations ............................................................... 167 6.2 Weathering a Storm ................................................................................................................. 179 6.3 Walking with the Tide ............................................................................................................. 189 Chapter 7: Gardening in the Wilderness and Searching for Communitas ....................................... 203 7.1 Wilderness Gardens ........................................................................................................................ 218 Chapter 8 Conclusion ............................................................................................................................. 236 Bibliography ............................................................................................................................................ 246 vii LIST OF FIGURES Figure 1 West Coast Trail and Bamfield………………………………………………………... 23 Figure 2 Shipwreck debris at Tscowis…………………………………………………………....73 Figure 3 Cables on Forest Floor………………………………………………………………….76 Figure
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