WESTERN TAIWAN Your Scenicfix
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© Lonely Planet Publications 208 Western Taiwan If you want contrasts, head to western Taiwan and start at the coastline, continue through rich farmland and end in the high mountains of the central range. In fact, for a study in contrasts, just head to the Alishan National Scenic Area. Here you can travel through three biogeographical zones – tropical, subtropical and temperate – in just three hours (a rare old single-track alpine railway is your carriage). But unless you have unlimited time, the west’s contrasts will demand you choose from among them. Should you explore Taiwan’s southern Chinese heritage (which includes a great collection of temples) or its aboriginal culture? Should you join a pilgrimage for the goddess of the sea or learn to meditate at a Buddhist temple? Should you climb one of the highest mountains in East Asia or cycle easy bike lanes through the countryside? Of all the regions in Taiwan, this is one we suggest you follow our advice for most carefully (which includes letting you know those areas you don’t need to follow our advice). While there are some real treasures out there, there’s also a lot of dismal wasteland. In general, the cities can be given a miss except as jumping-off points. For smaller towns, don’t miss Lukang, Puli and, to a lesser extent, Changhua, even if your time is tight. Forget the miles of coastline unless you like Styrofoam, cables, plastic and – you get the picture. Look to the rice fields, the mountains and Sun Moon Lake, the largest body of water in Taiwan, for your scenic fix. HIGHLIGHTS Climb Yushan, one of East Asia’s highest mountains, in Yushan National Park ( p243 ) Get a primer in Buddhism at the Chung Tai Chan Temple ( p226 ) in Puli Dajia See mountainsides light up with fireflies in Aowanda Forest WESTERN TAIWAN Rueili ( p237 ) Recreation Area Ride a rare alpine railway to Alishan ( p241 ) Lukang Puli Nenggao Cross-Island Swim the rivers in remote Fengshan ( p239 ) Historic Trail Jiji Sun Bird-watch at Aowanda ( p230 ) Moon Lake Cycle, boat and stroll at Sun Moon Lake Fengshan Rueili ( p222 ) Alishan Become a pilgrim for Matsu in Dajia ( p216 ) Yushan National Park Cross the island on the Nenggao Cross- Island Historic Trail ( p230 ) Wander the old merchant streets of Lukang ( p216 ) lonelyplanet.com WESTERN TAIWAN •• Taichung 209 National Parks & Forest Recreation The only areas where public transportation Areas is inconvenient are Yushan National Park, the Western Taiwan is one of the most pristine more remote parts of the Alishan National parts of the country and offers endless op- Scenic Area, and Hwy 14 past Puli. portunities for long hikes, including several week-long ones. Yushan National Park is TAICHUNG 台中市 home of 3952m Yushan (Jade Mountain). %04 / pop 1,021,292 Tame Alishan Forest Recreation Area is the Taichung (Táizhōng), the third-largest city in polar opposite, with an old alpine train and Taiwan, is hardly a must-see for the short- cherry blossom trees being the draw. Aow- term visitor, though many long-term expats anda Forest Recreation Area is one of the best do enjoy it as a weekend getaway. The city bird-watching sites in the country. Rugged has several pleasant tea and restaurant streets, Hehuanshan Forest Recreation Area offers an excellent science museum and a very good scenic hikes above the tree line. art museum, which includes a top-of-the-line storybook fantasyland library for children. Getting There & Around Taichung is also a bright ray of sunshine (lit- Regular trains run frequently down the coast, erally) on a dreary winter day for those living connecting all major and minor cities, and in the capital. Taipei and Taichung have very there are decent bus services to most smaller similar average temperatures but Taichung is towns. The High-Speed Rail (HSR) is now much drier, receiving around 1700mm of rain running, but stations are quite far from down- a year compared with Taipei’s 2170mm. town. Taichung has one airport for both inter- national and domestic services. A small-gauge Orientation alpine train (one of only three in the world) The area around the train station is called does the route from Chiayi to Alishan. In most Central Taichung but, in reality, the focus of cities you’ll find scooter and car rental. the city is shifting westward all the time. Note 0 40 km WESTERN TAIWAN 0 20 miles Syueshan To Ilan To Taipei To Taipei (3883m) Wuling 3 Sheiba NP 1 Techi 7 Dajia ὈὈReservoirὈὈ 17 Daxueshan Taroko NP Houli Fengyuan 8 Lishan Dakeng Guguan Kuanyun 8 Taroko Scenic Area Road ClosedHehuanshan Gorge (3416m) Tienhsiang Tayuling WESTERN TAIWAN Bashianshan Hehuanshan TAICHUNG Chilaishan Hsiulin Taichung Huisun Forest Tsuifeng 14 Reserve (3607m) Changhua 9 Chihsingtan Chung Tai Wushe Tunyuan Beach Chan Temple 14 14 Wanda Tienchih Caotun ὈὈPuli ὈὈReservoir 14 Hualien T A I W A N Lukang Carp Lake Aowanda Nengkaoshan Forest (3349m) Liyu S T R A I T 3 Yuchih Formosan Aboriginal Lake 1 Changhua Jiji Small Cultural Village Rail Line 16 Shuili Sun Moon Lake 11 Jiji Ershui Luku Checheng 16 Mailiao Hualien River Yunlin Chushan 9 Jici Beach Touliu Sitou ὈὈ17 Ὀ21 1 Shanlinhsi Beigang 159 Minhsiung Tsaoling Rueisui Fongbin Meishan Rueili Fengshan 19 Dongpu Hot Springs Alishan Chiayi Tatajia Rueisui Chiayi Fenchihu 18 Hungyeh Shihtiping Hot Springs Shihcho Yushan Tropic of Cancer Putai 18 Alishan National Scenic Area (3952m) Eight Fairy Cave 3 3 Shanmei ὈὈ1 ὈὈ River Baihe Reservoir Yushan NP Yuli Hsiukuluan 11 Yenshui Baihe Guanziling Hot Springs P A C I F I C Sinying Tienchih Nankunshen Tsengwen Chiayi Meishankou Jiaming Lake Nanan Reservoir Farm Antung O C E A N Siangyang Hot Wushantou 21 Guanshan (3666m) Yakou Springs ὈὈMatou ReservoirὈὈὈὈ.