©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 38 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

NEXT TOP EXPERIENCES MAP PAGE

Taipei p40 #_ Taiwan's Islands Northern p272 Taiwan p108

Yushan National Park & Western Taiwan p190 Taroko National Park & the East Coast p156 Southern Taiwan p230

PAGE SURVIVAL YOUR AT-A-GLANCE REFERENCE 363 How to get around, get a room, GUIDE stay safe, say hello

ease is becomingly increas ingly problematic in Taiwa in both cities and rural are (mostly urban areas). Pre- vent by avoiding mosquito Directory A–Z ...... 364 bites – there is no vaccine. Mosquitoes that carry dengue bite day and night. Symptoms include high fever, severe headache an body ache (previously den Transport ...... 373 gue was known as ‘break- Health Dr Trish Batchelor bone fever’). Hepatitis A & B BEFORE YOU GO complete travel-health All travellers to Taiwan recommendations for every should be vaccinated again Health ...... 379 If you take any regular medi- country. Revised daily. hepatitis A and B. cation bring double. World Health Organiza- In Taiwan it may be dif- tion (www.who.int/ith) Pub- Japanese B À cult to À nd some newer lishes a superb book called Encephalitis drugs, particularly the latest International Travel and Potentially fatal viral disea antidepressant drugs, blood- Health, revised annually and transmitted by mosquitoe Language ...... 381 pressure medications and available free online. but rare in travellers.Trans contraceptive pills. mission season runs June to October. Vaccination is IN TAIWAN recommended for travelle Recommended spending more than one Vaccinations month outside of cities. Index ...... 394 Availability & If you plan to travel from Taiwan to a country with a ty- Cost of Health phoid problem you should get Care Environmental the vaccination elsewhere as Taiwan is a developed coun- Hazards Taiwan does not have typhoid try with excellent universal vaccinations anywhere. Air Pollution medical coverage. Most Map Legend ...... 403 Check the World Health Air pollution, particularly medical care is cheaper than Organization (WHO) website vehicle pollution, is a prob- in Western countries. Many (www.who.int/ith) for rec- lem in all major urban area doctors are trained in West- ommended vaccinations for Avoid downtown during bu ern countries and speak at travellers to Taiwan. hours. Air is much better in least some English th l i t i ht

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED25-health-tai8.indd 379BY 14/12/2010 8:46:56 AM Robert Kelly Joshua Samuel Brown “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET Get the right guides for your trip

PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 1 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip

20 Top Experiences ...... 4 Welcome to Taiwan ...... 13 4 20 Need to Know ...... 14 TOP If You Like...... 16 EXPERIENCES

Month by Month ...... 19 COUNTRY & CITY Itineraries ...... 21 • The original travel guide • Comprehensive Taiwan Outdoors ...... 25 • Adventurousturous Regions at a Glance ...... 35 Need to Know Currency Language » New Taiwanese » Mandarin and dollar (NT$) Taiwanese Taroko Gorge Taiwan’s top tourist draw is a walk-in Chinese painting. Rising above the froth of the blue-gre 1 Liwu River, the marble walls (yes, marble!) of Taroko Gorge (p ### ) swirl with the colours of a master’s palette Add in grey mist lush vegetation and waterfalls seemingly tumbling down from When to Go Your Daily Budget Taipei # GO Sep–Nov Budget NT$1500–2500 » Dorm bed NT$300– 00-top-experiences-tai8.indd 5004 14/12/2010 8:23:15 AM –# » Cheap hotel Taichung NT$500–1200 GO Oct–Jun # Hualien » Eat at convenience # GO Sep–Dec stores, noodle stands, night markets

–# #_ TAIPEI –

# Alishan » Take late-night # GO Sep–Dec intercity buses for cheapest rates Tainan # GO Oct–Mar Midrange

NT$3000–5000 –

# Taroko Kaohsiung » Double room in B&B Gorge # GO Apr–May, Oct–Jan #• Warm to hot summers, NT$1500–2400 cold to mild winters N #• » At this price range Hualien B&Bs usually offer superior rooms to Taiwan Outdoors •#É hotels •# Mataian hu » Lunch and dinner at a Walami PACIFIC decent local restaurant High Season Shoulder Low Season #••# OCEAN NT$250–400 Hiking Hiking Trail Yuli (Jul–Aug) (Sep–Oct, Apr–Jun) (Nov–Mar) There are hundreds of well-maintained natu- » Accommodation » Good discounts » Crowds are low » Go to popular

destinations midweek

ral trails in Taiwan, with no guide needed for Why Hike Taiwan? É costs increase 30% to on accommodation except during

– #f # most of them. The best low-altitude trails Taiwan has a striking landscape that is still Chihpen •# Luye 50% in tourist areas midweek Chinese New Year for discounts on better

are all located within an hour of Taipei, and heavily forested. With climatic zones rang- accommodation DISCOVERDISCOVER –

Hot Springs #• Taitung# » S a t u r d a y n i g h t s » Crowds at major » Big discounts on ENCOUNTERNTER PHRASEBOOKPHRAPH SEBOOK the best high-mountain trails can be found ing from tropical to alpine, the country’s #• #• #÷ and Chinese New sights on weekends accommodation at Top end more in Yushan and Sheipa National Parks. Á ora and fauna range widely (see p ###). It Green Island than NT$6000 É Year also see » Best time to visit major tourist sights

is possible to hike year round on a well- Kaohsiung

Chihpen #– increases outer islands (up to 50%) » Double room – # Best-of Cycling developed trail network from sea level to Forest at 4 star hotel Hdt St d iht • • Pocket-sized Taiwan has good roads with wide shoulders 3952m. You don’t need a guide for most Recreation in popular biking areas, with hundreds of hikes, and many trails are quiet – it’s pos- Area kilometres of bike-only routes around cities. sible to hike for days without seeing others, Lanyu and when you do, most other hikers are lo- • Photo-packed Easy-to-use Bikes are allowed on Mass Rapid Transit • (MRT), trains and buses, and there are many cals. There is also a free cabin system on national-park trails. day and multiday rental programs widely Three Weeks Inspirational available. National Parks & Other • • Highlights Hiking Venues Loop Island-Hopping 02-plan-need-to-know.indd 14 14/12/2010 8:26:37 AM Hot Springs Over 50% of Taiwan is mountainous and Springs are located all over the island, rang- heavily forested. About 20% is protected ing from À ve-star resorts to wild mountain land divided between national parks, forest springs. The most accessible springs are in recreation areas, reserves and various state Beitou, reachable by Taipei MRT. Don’t miss forests. Taian hot springs in Miaoli County. National parks and forest recreation areas (FRAs) have excellent-quality trails. Water Sports Within the boundaries of each you’ll À nd Taiwan oՖ ers rich coral reefs for diving a visitor centre and often a small village around the oՖ shore islands. Hundreds of with basic accommodation and food. If clean mountain streams make the island the FRA does not have a village you’ll still an ideal river-tracing destination. There usually À nd basic facilities to support day is beginner to advanced surÀ ng around trippers. Paved trails are available to scenic northern Taiwan, the east coast and Kenting spots, while unspoiled areas with natural National Park. In winter head to Penghu for paths may be further in the park. Forestry world-class windsurÀ ng. reserves may have good trails but oՖ er few facilities for hikers. Looking for other travel resources?

06-taiwan-outdoors-tai8.indd 25 14/12/2010 8:30:28 AM

PAGE UNDERSTAND GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP 311 Learn about the big picture, so you TAIWAN can make sense of what you see

Taiwan Today ...... 312 05-itineraries-tai8.indd 24 14/12/2010 8:28:20 AM if Taiwan were History ...... 314 100 people The People of Taiwan ..... 328 314 Religion in Taiwan ...... 334 st LONELYPLANET.COM APPS EBOOKS MAGAZINE Temple Arts & For travel information, Location-based Guidebooks For travel stories, History 84 would be Taiwanese & Hakka Writing a historical overview of any place in just a few pages neces- sitates being both sweepingly general and highly selective. But writing 14 would be Mainland Chinese advice, tips & digital guides for the street for your reader inspiration & ideas Information about Taiwan’s history is especially tricky, because it’s a history of two about Taiwanese diՖ erent entities: Taiwan, the island, and Taiwan, the political entity 2 would be Indigenous history (from the or Architecture ...... 339 known as the Republic of China (ROC). Though uniÀ ed currently, the point of view of gious chapters the Taiwanese) history of the former is far older, and the origin of the latter is found lonelyplanet.com/mobile lonelyplanet.com/ebooks lonelyplanet.com/magazine can be found on many miles elsewhere. Since history is a big part of Taiwan’s appeal www.taiwandc. to travellers, and because Taiwan’s history is so mired in politics, we org/history.htm. endeavour to tread delicately, but boldly, stopping along the way to The site has a lot of interesting suggest places where the reader might À nd living reminders of days Taiwan’s Cuisine ...... 344 gone by. photographs and an excellent recommended Early History reading list. Taiwan has been settled for a long time, this much is certain. There is evidence of human settlement in Taiwan dating as far back as 30,000 The Landscape of to 40,000 years ago, and one theory holds that Taiwan is the linguist homeland of various Austronesian languages currently spoken through out the PaciÀ c. Whether the earliest inhabitants of Taiwan are related Paper in to the descendents of the aboriginal tribes currently living on Taiwan STAY IN TOUCH (or were in fact overrun by them and forced to migrate elsewhere is still being debated. this book is Taiwan ...... 349 Prehistoric Taiwan was likely a wetter place than it is today a fact that will seem impossible to anyone who has hiked u Yaming Moun lonelyplanet.com/contact ti j td dt t tid f i diti d ll M certified against twitter.com/ Taiwan Wildlife Guide ..... 354 the Forest AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 lonelyplanet Stewardship % The Future of Taiwan ..... 359 Council™ 03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111 standards. USA 150 Linden St, Oakland, CA 94607 facebook.com/ FSC™ promotes lonelyplanet environmentally %510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572 responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management UK 186 City Rd, London, EC1V 2NT lonelyplanet.com/ 15-history-tai8.indd 314 14/12/2010 8:35:50 AM of the world’s forests. %020 7106 2100, fax 020 7106 2101 newsletter

ttaiwan-8-cover.inddaiwan-8-cover.indd 2 220/12/20100/12/2010 1:39:071:39:07 PPMM

14-taiwan-today-tai8.indd 313 14/12/2010 8:33:53 AM › Taiwan Top Experiences ›

121ºE 122ºE 121ºE 122ºE Matsu Keelung 26ºN Taipei Fill up on tasty local snacks CHINA Visit Taipei’s National at the night market (p126) 0100kmPalace Museum (p59) Mù2 050miles Matsu & Kinmen Islands Danshui Yangmingshan 33#] National Go cycling & birdwatching on Keelung Wulai Park #] these far-flung islands (p272) Ta ip e i Explore old aboriginal #÷ #\ Jiufen 25ºN #_ hunting paths (p113) Lø1 2 Taoyu an #] Lø2 #_ Ta ip e i Mù 25ºN Taoyu an #\ Pingxi 25ºN #] #] 119ºE Hsinchu #] 33Lø5 Ilan Mù15 Chungli #\ #\ Pinglin TAIWAN 1 Kinmen Mù 3 STRAIT Lø #\ Wulai #] Hsinchu #] 24ºN #\ Taichung Changhua Shimen Mù7 Kinmen & Matsu Islands #] Hualien Reservoir #] Ilan

120ºE 2 7 Mù Mù15 Mù

Holy Ridge er #\ Suao #] v Miaoli 3 i Tackle this unforgettable Mù R five-day trek (p144) Syueshan g Pingxi n (Snow a Check out the magical 333(Mountain; y 3886m) n Lantern Festival (p118) R a TAIWAN Mù7 L Sheipa C 1 1 STRAIT Mù Lø National e Park n #] #÷ t Fengyuan 3333333r Taroko Lukang a National Mù9 R l Park Take in the grandeur of the M #æ #] #÷ Taroko Longshan Temple (p215) Taichung Chilaichushanpei o Gorge

Changhua (3605m) u #\ 3333333n #\

24ºN t

Lukang a

14 i

Mù #\ 14 n Taroko Gorge 17 19 Mù #]

Mù Mù #\ Puli R Caotun R Hualien Don’t miss Taiwan’s top

Sun Moon Lake Area 1 Nenggaoshan a Lø 3 Sun Moon tourist draw (p166)

3333n

Head off onto the walking Lø Lake (3349m) g

trails & cycling paths (p218) e #\ Choshui River Shuili Mù11 Touliu #] Mù9 East Coast Cycling Mù19 Mù1 Mù21 Cycle along the Hwy 11 Makung #\ 3 Chushan coastline (p171) Penghu Lø Alishan 17 333National (2489m)333 Mù Scenic Area R Chiayi #] Rueisui #\ R #\ Shihtiping Tropic of Cancer Mù18 Yushan Lø1 Yushan National 19 i Park Tropic of Cancer 4Mù h (3997m) Baihe 3 333#\ Mù 333C #÷ en 1 i #\ 11 Penghu Archipelago #] Mù s Walami #æ Yuli Mù Sinying Tsengwen h - Trail Go swimming, snorkelling Reservoir u R z & windsurfing (p291) 4 t e 17 - Guanshan g Mù n a (3666m) n R Wushantou333333a N 27 Walami Trail 27 R Mù Mù #\ Sixty Stone 3 Mù3 Mù9 Hike the brilliant Lø n Litao Mountain i (952m) Walami Trail (p180) r a r 23ºN e t v e n i v #] i 23ºN u

R 21 R Mù o

Tain an g Alishan n n M a 1 u Find remote villages, forests Lø l n n i Dulan a #\ o e & a historic railway (p202) r 11 a P Mù L t

n

e 1 10 r Mù C #] Dulan Lø e Tait u ng v Get your groove on at a i #\ Chihpen R #] Pingtung live-music performance (p173) ELEVATION Kaohsiung g Green #] #] n i Island Fengshan p 3 o Lø a 3000m K 2500m Mù9 2000m Donggang #\ 1500m 1000m Little Liuchiu 1 PACIFIC Island Mù #\ 500m Taw u OCEAN 200m Fangliao #\ 100m 0

Fengkang #\ e# 050km 025miles 33 Kenting 22ºN National Lanyu Park #÷ 22ºN SOUTH CHINA Kenting #\ SEA 33#\ Eluanbi Look out for these icons: Our author’s A green or No payment o recommendation S sustainable option F required

TAIPEI ...... 40 Daxi (Miyuewan) ...... 133 Shitoushan ...... 150 AROUND TAIPEI ...... 91 Wai-Ao ...... 134 Nanzhuang ...... 151 Beitou ...... 91 Turtle Island (Kueishgan Taian Hot Springs ...... 152 Island) ...... 134 Yangmingshan National Sanyi ...... 154 Park ...... 94 Jiaoshi ...... 134 Danshui ...... 97 National Centre of TAROKO NATIONAL Traditional Arts ...... 134 Bali ...... 101 PARK & THE EAST THE SU-HUA HIGHWAY: COAST ...... 156 Guandu ...... 101 SUAO TO HUALIEN . . . . . 135 Hualien ...... 159 South of City Centre . . . . .102 Suao ...... 135 Taroko National Park . . . . .164 NORTHERN Nanao ...... 135 HIGHWAY 11 ...... 171 TAIWAN ...... 108 NORTH CROSS-ISLAND Hualien Ocean Park ...... 171 HIGHWAY...... 136 TAIPEI COUNTY Baci Observation (NEW TAIPEI CITY) ...... 111 Cihu ...... 137 Tower ...... 172 Wulai ...... 111 Shimen Reservoir ...... 137 Shihtiping ...... 172 Pingxi Branch Rail Fusing (Fuhsing, Fuxing) . .137 Caves of the Eight Line ...... 115 Dongyanshan Forest Immortals ...... 173 Pinglin ...... 118 Recreation Area ...... 138 Platform of the Three Yingge...... 120 Xiao Wulai Waterfall ...... 139 Immortals ...... 173 Sansia (Sanxia) ...... 122 Baling ...... 139 Highway 23 ...... 173 Manyueyuan Forest Mingchih Forest Jinzun Recreation Area . . .173 Recreation Area ...... 123 Recreation Area ...... 139 Dulan ...... 173 HIGHWAY 2: THE NORTH Taipingshan National Forest Hsiao Yeliu ...... 175 & NORTHEAST COAST . . . 124 Recreation Area ...... 140 HIGHWAY 9 & THE EAST Baishawan Beach ...... 124 Wuling Forest Recreation RIFT VALLEY ...... 175 Area (Wuling Farm) ...... 141 Yeliu Geopark ...... 124 Liyu Lake ...... 176 Sheipa National Park . . . . .143 Keelung (Jilong) ...... 125 Lintianshan ...... 177 HSINCHU & MIAOLI Jiufen & Jinguashi ...... 128 COUNTIES ...... 145 Mataian ...... 178 Bitou Cape ...... 130 Hsinchu ...... 145 Fuyuan Forest Longdong ...... 130 Around Hsinchu ...... 147 Recreational Area ...... 178 Yenliao ...... 131 Cingcyuan (Qingquan) . . .148 Rueisui ...... 178 Fulong Beach ...... 131 Guanwu Forest Recreation Yuli ...... 179 Caoling (Tsaoling) Area & Dabajianshan . . . . .148 Antung (Antong) Hot Historic Trail & Taoyuan Springs ...... 180 Valley Trail ...... 132 Beipu ...... 149 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

Walami Trail ...... 180 Shanmei ...... 210 AROUND KAOHSIUNG . . .256 Sixty Stone Mountain . . . 181 CHANGHUA & YUNLIN Foguangshan ...... 256 COUNTIES...... 210 Loshan (Luoshan) Meinong ...... 256 Scenic Area ...... 181 Changhua ...... 210 Meinong to Maolin ...... 259 SOUTH CROSS-ISLAND Lukang (Lugang) ...... 214 HIGHWAY...... 181 Maolin Recreation Area . . 259 SUN MOON LAKE PINGTUNG COUNTY . . . . .260 Wulu ...... 181 NATIONAL SCENIC Litao ...... 182 AREA ...... 218 Dapeng Bay ...... 260 Chung Tai Chan Lisong Hot Springs ...... 182 Donggang ...... 260 Temple ...... 221 Siangyang Forest Little Liuchiu Island . . . . . 262 Recreation Area & Jiaming Puli ...... 222 Pingtung ...... 265 Lake National Trail ...... 183 JIJI SMALL RAIL LINE . . . .224 Sandimen ...... 265 Kuanshan (Guanshan) . . .183 Ershui ...... 224 Beidawushan...... 265 Luye ...... 184 Jiji (Chi Chi) ...... 225 Jin-Shui Ying Old Trail . . . 266 Taitung ...... 184 Shuili ...... 225 Kenting National Park . . . 266 SOUTH OF TAITUNG . . . . . 188 Checheng ...... 226 Chihpen (Zhiben) ...... 188 HIGHWAY 14 ...... 226 TAIWAN’S Aowanda National Forest ISLANDS ...... 272 YUSHAN NATIONAL Recreation Area ...... 226 KINMEN ...... 274 PARK & WESTERN Nenggao (Neng-Gao/ Kincheng (Jincheng) . . . . .276 TAIWAN ...... 190 Nengkao) Cross-Island Around Kincheng ...... 279 Yushan National Park . . . .192 Trail ...... 228 Hehuanshan (Hohuanshan) Little Kinmen ...... 283 Dongpu (Tungpu) ...... 196 Forest Recreation Area . . 229 MATSU ...... 284 TAICHUNG COUNTY . . . . . 196 Nangan ...... 285 Taichung ...... 196 SOUTHERN Beigan ...... 288 Dasyueshan Forest TAIWAN ...... 230 Recreation Area ...... 199 Matsu’s Outer Tainan City ...... 232 Islands ...... 290 ALISHAN NATIONAL SCENIC AREA ...... 202 SOUTHWEST COAST . . . 242 PENGHU ...... 291 Taijiang National Park . . . 242 Chiayi ...... 202 Makung (Magong) ...... 293 Black-Faced Spoonbill Alishan Forest Around Penghu Reserve ...... 243 Recreation Area ...... 205 Archipelago ...... 297 Aogu Wetlands ...... 244 Outer Islands ...... 300 Fenqihu ...... 209 Guanziling (Kuanziling). . 244 LANYU ...... 301 Rueili (Juili) ...... 209 Kaohsiung City ...... 246 GREEN ISLAND ...... 306 Fengshan ...... 210 21

Itiner- Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a aries starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

#• Danshui Old Street S O U T H C H I N A S E A

Beitou #• Yangmingshan #÷ National Park

#• National Palace Museum

#• Bao-an Temple

2-28 Peace Park & Memorial Museum #• Raohe Night Market Ximending#• #• Longshan#• #• #• Ta i p e i 10 1 Temple Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall

#• Maokong

One Week Taipei & Around

Spend the fi rst two days museum-hopping in the capital; with the world’s greatest col- lection of Chinese art, National Palace Museum takes a day on its own. At night, hit the city’s myriad night markets before or after the clubs and bars. They’re all open late. On day three, spend the morning exploring diff erent perspectives on Taiwan’s past in the 2-28 Peace Park & Memorial Museum and at the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, then blast into the neon future with a visit to Ximending, Taipei’s youth central. Head south the next day for an afternoon sipping tea in Maokong, followed by a ride to the top of Taipei 101 to take in the whole city as the sun goes down. That night head to Raohe Night Market for a late dinner at one of the best snacking venues in town. If it’s sunny on day fi ve, rent a bicycle and ride the river trails to Danshui, followed by strolling and snacking along the Old Street. The next day you can go hiking on Yang- mingshan followed by a hot spring in nearby Beitou. On the fi nal day explore the city’s old temples, Longshan and Bao-an, centres of both folk faith and folk art. , . . The , a top ies. Guan- fl next the ff . At and spend spend and Sansia Yuli OCEAN ee Road ee PACIFIC ff . Burn it all o Antung Hot SpringsAntung Hot and spend two days wan- ne oolong tea, followed by fi É Area Recreation Maolin , a town devoted to ceramics. for a couple of days of temple Hualien #• TAIPEI #• • # É Wulai #_ . More scenic. More delights await down for the foremost world’s collection Hualien #• Dongshan Co Dongshan Yuli Yingge Antung Tainan #• Gorge #• Taroko Sansia #• Alishan National Scenic Area Scenic National Alishan HotÉ Springs #• , an patrol old route running deep into a

Yingge

Trail É Walami , home to, home master lantern, fan and tin crafts- the following morning passes some sublime

Shilin Market Night É #• #• for an afternoon of Lake Ta t a j i a , a vibrant centre of Taiwanese folk worship. If you

#• Sun Moon

Taroko Gorge É

É É Lukang #÷ lishan #÷ Area A Maolin

National É

Sanyi

Scenic Area Recreation Walami Trail #•

É É

# •

Maokong É Lake Moon Sun #• National Palace Museum #• Lukang Guanziling Hot Springs Coffee Rd Dongshan Ta i n a n Longshan Temple Longshan Kaohsiung in the shadow of Yushan, highest Taiwan’s mountain. , Taiwan’s woodcarving, Taiwan’s capital; and in , an expanse of wild jungle with loads of biking, cycling and river tracing , Taiwan’s second-largest, Taiwan’s city, for two days of seafood and urban adventures in STRAIT TAIWAN Sanyi Tatajia Wulai that evening indulge yourself in rare hot springs. mud The following daycontinue

Taipei. Don’tTaipei. miss the Almost every trip to Taiwan will start with a week or so in and around the capital, When it’s time to move on, catch a tilting train to Continue by train the up coast to the capital old of Finally, on that home stretch to Taipei, drop in on the Tzushr Temple in in Temple Tzushr the on in drop Taipei, to stretch home that on Finally, Another train ride – this time across fertile Taiwan’s southern tip – takes you over to The drive from Yushan to opportunities just outside the city. and relic touring. Rent a car now for the drive the up have time, ride the gondola to an evening visit to the sprawling, snack-rich of Chinese art, and in day the afternoon hiking the nearby subtropical rainforest. Rest and recuperate that night at nearby of Rukaihome aborigines, and the overwintering site of millionsof purple butter the in ziling ranges mountain of expanse wild a into up Kaohsiung the harbour old district. In winter take a two-day side trip to dering the bedazzling marble-walled marble-walled bedazzling the dering Highway which 9, runs through the lush rift valley. Train it down to

Ultimate Taiwan Ultimate Three Weeks men; in next day ride the Alishan Forest Train to up the sunrise viewing platform and then hike around high-mountain scenery and should be taken At the slowly. lake itself, stop to sample oolong tea and maybe catch a boat tour. Heading north, fansof traditional arts and crafts will theenjoy next two days with stops in example of traditional design and decorative arts.

22 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES 23 and and . First Hehuan- OCEAN , an amazing amazing an , PACIFIC Puli , Taiwan’s second-, Taiwan’s . At Daxi head north and follow this north north this follow and . Prepare for an endless or you can just continue 甲 Cihu 甲 – and the crowds.

Nenggao Cross-Island Historic TAIPEI É Snow Mountain Snow #_ North Cross-Island Highway Taipei Upper Baling

Upper Baling

Historic Trail Sansia É Aowanda Forest Recreation Area Recreation Forest Aowanda nd the nd #•

#÷

fi É #• Nenggao Cross-Island and its nearby forest of ancient trees. an- More #÷

Fusing

#•

É Aowanda Forest Recreation Area #÷ É #• , an area of thick forests, high waterfalls and cool R #÷ (Snow Cihu Syueshan Mountain) Recreation Area Mingchih Forest Hwy North to photograph maybe (and stroll the treeless over) hills of Wuling Forest Cross-Island Recreation Area rst stop is the Chung in Chan Tai Temple Recreation Area fi Hehuanshan Forest #• Puli your and perhaps stop to look at the masterful before connect- Tzushr Temple É and then explore Chiang Kai-shek’s legacy at nearby of Buddhist art and research. After Puli the highway starts to rise into the Cen- #• Taichung Sansia Taichung . You don’t need to. You do the whole thing, but consider hiking in and spending a night Mingchih Forest Recreation Area Area Recreation Forest Mingchih STRAIT TAIWAN centre centre After After Wuling Forest Recreation Area Recreation Forest Wuling After Wuling the Pass highest (3275m), of road bit in Northeast Asia, stop in From here it’s a seamless connection with the Past Wuling the the road winds down the mountains past with quaint aboriginal villages, with connection seamless a it’s here From Returning to Hwy 14, continue to the end to Fusing shan Forest Recreation Area Recreation Forest shan to mustard-coloured Yushan cane. Then head Hwy up 8 to Hwy 7 windy road and numerous washouts. Also prepare for a stunning landscape of receding ranges. mountain blue-tinged mountain streams, some of which are home to the endangered Formosan landlocked landlocked Formosan endangered the to home are which of some streams, mountain salmon. Ifyou have a couple of days to spare, climb stop: stop: Two Weeks Two A Cross-Island Tour towards towards ing with National Fwy 3 for the 30-minute ride to tral Mountains, and from here in on it’s just one gorgeous landscape after the other beg- ging a side a photo. for trip, For head down to Trail in the cabin. Retrace your route, andhead north Hwy up 14 mountain. highest their trademark churches and steeples, until it reaches the Lanyang River plains and one very large cabbage patch. on to stunning enjoy views of highforested mountains and rugged canyons. Stop for lunch at cient trees can be found a couple of hours later at spend the night in little cabins among cherry and plum trees. Keep an eye out for the birds: this is a top birdwatching venue.

nd fi -the- ff rst. Mov- rst. fi via Taipei Taipei via nd in Taiwan Green Island Green fi OCEAN PACIFIC y to y fl Kinmen The East Coast Loop The East Island-Hopping y to Kaohsiung and fl to get a taste of mari- via Taipei, andexplore y to fl Matsu fowl you can’t Hualien , both top diving and snorkel- Penghu TAIPEI Lanyu

#•

Green Island #• Mataian #– #_ É with with

Yuli #–

# •

Gorge – Taroko #

# •

Taitung Luye #• É

Lanyu

#• # •

ng) on on ng) # – fi time Fujian culture that you can’t #– Start #• Next, get in some beach wind- time (or From Matsu, From

Area Trail Forest #÷ and explore the island’s ancient villages and Cold history. War Birdwatchers will want to include an extra day for walking around the saltwater lakes, to home a mix- water of ture Three Weeks Island-Hopping and and ing on from Penghu, catch a train across southern Taiwan to Taitung. Take a boat or sur the archipelago’s myriad temples. The Makung be Taiwan’s Matsu may proper. in Taiwan A night proper. in the traditional houses of Beigan, a walk through mili- old tary tunnels and a meal of fresh-o boat seafood are considered obligatory. ling venues. Lanyu is to home the Yami, an sea, the to ties with close aboriginal people while Green Island boasts a rare seawater springhot best with enjoyed the stars over- head, at night. Chihpen Walami

Recreation É , Chihpen

to to Hot Springs

– # #•

• # Yuli –

# #– . You’re be- . You’re

#– Kaohsiung f Matsu # • # Chihpen Hot Hot Chihpen get a bird’s-eye Walami Trail er. ff Penghu Luye Chihpen Forest Rec- Forest Chihpen Highway 9 Highway , it’sa quick but to hop , Taiwan’s premier natu-, Taiwan’s ers quiet trails through ff STRAIT TAIWAN o • # , a wetland area with some . If you can manage the ride, Kinmen rst opened during the Japanese fi Hualien lled banyan forests. banyan lled , fi

C H I N A C H I N

Mataian

Taroko Gorge From From South of Taitung, stop at at stop Taitung, of South When you’re ready to head back north, north, back head to ready you’re When colonial era. Nearby Areareation Springs tween two mountainranges here, in the parasail- top rice belt of Taiwan. Taiwan’s At at way valley the the of On view route. ing The venue. next stop day, at opportuni- patrol many cycle out to the historic have Japanese a you’ll once valley the up ties to soak weary muscles in springs. hot indulge theTo tastebuds, head to aborigi- nal monkey- some of Taiwan’s best coastal and moun- ral attraction since the ’30s. and After a few down head treasure, this exploring days coastal best 11 Highway it’s three Taiwan’s great days on a bike alongside of some scenery. tain

The East Coast Loop Two Weeks Two remember to take unique local dishes on o

24 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Robert Kelly Coordinating Author; Maokong (Taipei), Northern Taiwan, Taroko National Park & the East Coast, Yushan National Park & Western Taiwan, Southern Taiwan, Taiwan’s Islands Ever since he learned that his dad’s airline job meant he could fl y for peanuts (thanks, Dad), Robert has been travelling. He arrived in Taiwan 15 years ago and quickly found a place he could call home. Though never one to go native, Robert has picked up a few new habits including a deep love of tea, aff ec- tion for poisonous snakes, an appreciation of the diff erence between shale and schist mountain slopes, and a love of all things soy. This is Robert’s third time writing the Taiwan guide for Lonely Planet and once again his fi nal remark remains the same: he has no plans to leave this country now that he’s seen yet even more of what it has to off er.

Joshua Samuel Brown Taipei, Keelung (Northern Taiwan) A 2009 USC Annenberg/Getty Arts Journal- ism fellow, prolifi c traveller, writer and photographer, Joshua Samuel Brown (aka Josambro) has written for an eclectic variety of publications around the globe, including the South China Morning Post, Business Traveller Asia, Clamor Magazine and Cat Fancy. Joshua’s debut book, Vignettes of Taiwan, off ers tales of betel nut beauties and how to avoid jail time by impersonating a Mormon; it’s available through his website www.josambro.com. Still going strong fi ve years on, his blog, Snarky Tofu, can be read at http://josambro.blogspot.com. This is Joshua’s seventh guide for Lonely Planet.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 8th edition – March 2011 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74179 043 6 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2010 Photographs © as indicated 2010 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’