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The Sorrento Peninsula

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The Sorrento Peninsula Italy - The Sorrento Peninsula Naturetrek Tour Report 14 -21 April 2007 The Faraglione Rocks Capri Sorrento group 2007 Naked Man Orchids-Orchis italica Ploughshare Orchid-Serapias vomeracea Report & Photos Mark Galliott and Andrew Harrop Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report Italy - The Sorrento Peninsula Leaders: Mark Galliott (tour leader and naturalist) Andrew Harrop (co-leader & naturalist) Participants. Mary Parker Gillian Stewart Viv Orlov Richard Farr Mike Rickwood Roy Heaps Judy Hughes David Weeks Mary Weeks Susan Clarke Sarah Burton Paul Heyes Sheila Heyes Day 1 Saturday 14 April Cool, showery After meeting up at Gatwick with Mark and Andrew our tour leaders, we duly embarked on the mid morning flight to Naples. The weather over Europe was rather cloudy enabling us only partial views of the snow covered Alps and the Italian Apennines as we neared our destination. After picking up the minibuses at the hire car compound we were immediately confronted with a massive traffic jam, an event that is all too common in this part of Italy. Eventually though we managed to leave Naples, making our way towards the Sorrento Peninsula via the autostrada that bisects the sea and the imposing bulk of Mount Vesuvius away to our left. At Castellamare we turned off onto the scenic but busy coastal road, with good views of the rocky coast overlooking the Bay of Sorrento with Capri rising precipitously in the background. Some distinctive plants could be identified on the cliffs including Scorpion Senna-Coronilla emerus, Tree Spurge-Euphorbia dendroides, and the attractive yellow endemic Snapdragon-Antirrhinum siculum. Arriving in Sorrento we settled into our hotel, admiring the lovely views over the bay to the island of Ischia in the distance. We sampled the first of the many good meals that we were to enjoy during our stay here, before having a meeting to discuss the itinerary for the week, and then for most people it was an early night. Day 2 Sunday 15 April Mist, clearing sunny and hot After the previous days’ rain, we were pleasantly surprised to awake to a fine but slightly misty morning, so after breakfast we started our week’s exploration by driving the short distance up into the hills behind Sorrento, to park the minibus at Termini, and then walk down an easy track to the old lighthouse at Punta Campanella. © Naturetrek June 07 1 Italy - The Sorrento Peninsula Tour Report The Mediterranean flora was very much in evidence here in all it’s spring glory, with a bewildering array of species that Mark identified for us as we gradually descended through Olive groves, woodland, and then into more open “Garrique” nearer the lighthouse. The lovely shocking blue of the endemic Lithodora rosmarifolia was eagerly photographed as it carpeted a limestone rock face, while many orchids were present including Pink Butterfly-Orchis papilionacea, Naked Man-O. italica, Tongue Orchid- Serapias lingua, Bumble Bee orchid-O. bombylifera, and one plant of the endemic Sicilian Spider Orchid-Ophrys exaltata. Migrant birds were conspicuous by their absence, but we did enjoy some resident species including Sardinian, Cetti’s & Fan-tailed Warbler, Serin, and a dashing Peregrine Falcon. After enjoying our picnic lunch in the partial shade of some shrubs next to the path, we then split into two groups, the majority taking a steep rocky path that climbs up over the cliff and eventually back down into Termini, while the remaining three members returned by the same path as we had arrived. Gaining altitude, a lovely vista gradually unfolded in front of us, with lovely views of the beautiful villages that cling to the cliff side of the famous Amalfi coastline stretching away to the south. Good birds seen were Alpine Swift, Cuckoo, and both Northern & Black-eared Wheatear, while the sunshine also brought out our first butterflies with Swallowtail, Cleopatra, Wall Brown, and Eastern Dappled White all noted, and we were also lucky to examine closely some specimens of the impressive Migratory Locust. The beautifully marked green/blue Italian Wall Lizards, that we were to see all week, were also particularly accommodating as members of the group duly photographed them. After an exhausting climb, made worse by the very hot conditions, we eventually reached a large allotment area overlooking the village, which is normally a good spot for migrant birds to rest up after coming ashore. Today though the weekend meant that it was rather overrun with both local people and tourists, and hence no birds. Thankfully, this was also a good place for plants with numerous delicate blooms of Anemone hortensis, and masses of Orchids including Province -Orchis provincialis, Man –Aceras anthropophorum, Dense-flowered–Neotinea intacta, and Pyramidal–Anacamptis pyramidalis. Day 3 Monday 16 April Hot and sunny Another lovely sunny day, as we started by driving around the back of Sorrento over the hills in an attempt to miss the “rush hour” traffic that afflicts this area, before turning inland along narrow roads and through small villages, gradually climbing up to Monte Faito our destination for the day. This is one of the summits which dominate the Latteri mountain range and at over 1,200 metres high gave us stunning views as we climbed firstly through open rocky grassland and then Black & Mountain Pine and Beech woodland. As a result of its altitude Mt Faito has a very different feel to it than the previous days walk having a flora more akin to Northern Europe with the welcome addition of some rare montane species. These included the very attractive endemic Violet-Viola eugineae, carpets of delicate blue Anemone appenina (also the occasional white plant), Alpine Rock Cress-Arabis alpina, Alpine Squill-Scilla bifolia, Chamois Cress-Hutchinsia alpina, Round-leaved Saxifrage-Saxifraga rotundifolia, and the strange looking Birthwort-Aristolochia pallida. The latter is the food plant of the beautiful Southern Festoon butterfly and almost immediately we had a fleeting glimpse of a very lively individual, before disappearing from view, although later we did manage to get better views. 2 © Naturetrek June 07 Italy - The Sorrento Peninsula Tour Report Other butterflies seen were Orange Tip, Large Tortoiseshell, and a newly emerged Queen of Spain Fritillary. Birds were rather scarce here although many Coal Tits showed well, whilst numerous Pied Flycatchers and Firecrests were flitting about in the trees searching for insects, and a Wryneck briefly excited, before flying lower down the slope. On the climb upwards some members were also lucky enough to see a male Golden Oriole from one of the minibuses. We took our picnic lunch near the St Michele chapel with wonderful views over Pompeii and the brooding Vesuvius in the background, before walking back the way we had come to the minibus. On the way more good plants were found including Spring Rock-cress-Arabis verna, Alpine Corn Gromwell-Bugglosoides arvensis ssp sibthorpiana, Hutchinsia-Hornungia petraea, and the elegant yellow Sicilian Orchid-Dactylorhiza markusii. After a welcome ice-cream at the café next to the cable car station, we had just enough time to stop by the roadside on the descent to photograph the superb views over the bay, before continuing slowly back to the hotel for another lovely dinner. Day 4 Tuesday 17 April Mist clearing, sunny and hot The weather was really settling down now, so today we left the hotel to drive into Sorrento, parking the minibuses at the port, where we were to catch the boat over to the beautiful island of Capri. After purchasing the tickets, we quickly boarded and in no time were enjoying the short ride across to the island the only birds noted being the ubiquitous Yellow-legged Gulls, and a single Little Stint scurrying about amongst the boats in the harbour. On Capri we then all acquired a joint travel ticket, before taking the funicular railway up the hill to the bus station where we then transferred to one of the little buses that connect Capri town with Anacapri, the other main town here. The road is literally built into the side of the cliff with a dizzying drop below and as we climbed higher a wonderful vista unfolded of the bay stretching away below with the Sorrento peninsula behind it in the distance. At our destination we changed onto the fourth mode of transport during the day, by taking the chairlift to the top of Monte Solaro, at 587 metres the highest point of the island. Everyone remarked how wonderful it was to inspect the masses of colourful wild flowers from above, with the Naked Man and Pink Butterfly Orchids being particularly abundant. After admiring the views at the top we then made our way gradually down through pine woodland and scrub to an old observatory overlooking the bay far below, a superb spot to eat our picnic lunch. Today was to be our best day for birds, with many migrants resting up amongst the vegetation, before continuing their journey northwards. Tree Pipit, Turtle Dove, Pied & Spotted Flycatcher, Whinchat, Nightingale, Redstart, Wryneck, Hoopoe, at least two Woodchat Shrikes, and a female Spectacled Warbler were all admired. Resident birds here were Sub-alpine Warbler, Blue Rock Thrush and a pair of stunning Rock Thrushes. Descending further back down the easy path to Anacapri, it was the turn of the flowers to delight us with Mediterranean Bartsia-Parentucellia latifolia, Star of Bethlehem-Ornithogalum umbellatum, Wild Cabbage-Brassica © Naturetrek June 07 3 Italy - The Sorrento Peninsula Tour Report oleracea ssp robertiana, Jersey Buttercup-Ranunculus paludosus, Shepherd’s Needle-Scandix pectin-veneris, and the first few flowers of the two colourful red and white Cistuses C.
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