The Story of Milk

TH E STO RY O F MI LK

H FRE ERIKSEN JO AN D . D

R D U TE O F TH E ROY D N I S RI U TU R O E E T R G A A AL A H AG C L AL C LL G , AU HO “ ” “ E S KI N I N E RI I N D N I S H R O F CH E E MA G A M CA ( A ) , C E AM ”

I N G I K B Y NTRI U F O R E E TC . E N R M L C E F GAL C , , G E A L ’

N E R O F CH R . H N S E N S B O RATO RY NU MA AG A LA , MA F ACTURE RS O F DAI RY A ND M I LK F O O D PRE P

A RA TT E F A S N . Y TI O N S . , LI L LL ,

New 130th THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 1 9 1 9

A ll rights reserved C O P YR I G H T , 1 9 1 9

B Y THE MAC M ILLAN CO MPANY

r i mb e r 1 9 1 9 S e t u and e le o e d . Pub l h e d S e te p ct ty p s p , TAB LE OF CONTENTS

H IS TORI CAL

CHAPTE R I

M K PRO DUCT O N C OMPO S T O N AN D C R CTE R ST CS O F . I , I I HA A I I IL

a P steurization .

Dairy Cattle . Milk Breeds B eef Cattl e F n ood a d Wate r . Th e B arn

T e st th e C O W S . He althy COW S

Butter- fat

C e me as in and Albu n . Milk Sugar Mineral Matters

T B k Te h e abcoc st . a S mpling .

Th e L t e ac omet r . Acidity Te st

Enzymes

Re et nn . TABLE O F CON TE NTS

PAGE Bacteria Lactic Acid B acilli

The Control of B acteria Cleanliness II t . ea .

Cooling . n e t Disi f c ants .

P asteurization

Cultures Pure . Starters

CHAPTE R II

K PP Y A D RE E RY PR D TS MIL SU L N C AM O UC .

Bovine Tube rculosis

e e C a e Milk as a Dis as rri r .

B te t ac ria Coun .

e t ed M k C r iﬁ il .

e r e Th Sanita y Cod .

Y rk tate Milk rad in New o S G g .

e e City D liv ry . k tat Mil S ions . Skim Milk

eam Cr .

Th e Se parator .

Perce ntage of B utte r- fat

Standardizing Cre am .

e Pasteuriz e d Cr am . Whipped Cre am

i e Emuls ﬁed Cr am .

I ce Cream

Free ze rs . Classiﬁcation of I c e C re am

I ce Cream Re cipes . TAB LE O F CO NTE NTS vii

B Dairy utte r . C e ntrifugal C reaming

C - e e C reaIneries o op rativ . Ripeni ng th e Cre am C oloring

Working . Salting Composition Ove rrun P i ack ng .

S ee B e w t utt r . Renovate d Butte r Ol eomargarine

Coco - Butt e r

Buttermilk C ooling Esse ntial . Comme rcial B utt e rmilk Rip e ning

B e th r aking up e Curd . Thi k M k c il . Yoghourt

Fermented Ill ilh .

Keﬁr .

CHAPTE R III

CHE E SE Chedd ar Cheese The Factory S ystem

Ripe ning th e Milk . Coloring and Setting with Re nne t

Cutting th e Curd . TABLE OF CO N TE NTS

Cooking

Matting . Salting P re ssing . Curing

F S k m e . or , iz and pac ing

Cleaning th e vats .

Composition %ualities

s ad om Pasteur z d il Chee e M e fr i e M k .

Making Cheddar Cheese on the Farm

T H a h s Other ypes of rd C ee e .

Gouda . Edam Swiss Roquefort Parme san C accio Cavallo Limburge r

Brick .

M n te u s r .

Ne t ufcha el .

C e m C e e e r a h s .

Cured Soft Cheese . Fre nch Soft Cheese

he s Cottage C e e .

M n C t e C ee e Re e aki g o tag h s with nn t .

Cl ub Cheese

Milk S ugar TAB LE O F CONTEN TS

Casein

Just - Hatmake r Proc ess Ecke nb—erg Proc e ss Me rrell Soul e Proc ess

Economic Proc ess .

k m M P e S i ilk owd r . Whol e Milk Powde r

ns d and Eva rat d Cond e e p o e Milk .

Whey

CHAPTE R IV

L F D I K A S A O O .

Nutrients

P te ro in . Fats and Carbohydrat es

Mine ral Matt e rs .

Relation . Nutritive Ratio

e Calori s . V Fallacy of Th eoretical aluation . Someth ing Unknow n

Care of Milk in the H ouse C Keep th e Milk ool .

Top Milk .

Modifying

n hild n Milk for Growi g C re .

CHAPTE R V

KE RY MILK C O O .

S oups X TABL E O F CON TE NTS

Cream Soups

C e re al Cream Soups . Milk Chowders Milk Stews

Milk Cereals

Luncheon and S upper Dishes Cre ame d Dishe s

Soufﬂc s

Cheese Fondu Milk Toast

as a b Cheese Dishes Me tS u stitutes .

Cheese S alads

Cottage Cheese

Milk B reads and Biscuits

Desserts .

Junkets .

Milk B everages

Miscellaneous S uggestions

The Thermometer d Weights an Measures .

Bibliography INTRODUCTI ON

The conception of this Story of Milk dates many

- years back . In his life long study of problems con nec ted with dairy farming and milk industries in two ’ a of the world s greatest dairy countries , Denm rk and the United States , the author has felt the need of a concise handbook covering this interesting subj ect . In his forty years of work in the manufacture and dis trib u tion of dairy and milk - food preparations he has been brought constantly into contact with men and women interested in the production of milk and has found a persistent demand for a book that might be consulted by anybody in regard to questions related to these greatest of all foods , which are , or ought to be , a most important part of the daily diet of children and adults alike , at all times , everywhere .

There was a time during the war when , frightened by the soaring of the price which had remained re markab l y low for many years , much too low in fact compared with the cost of other food , people began to cut down the consumption of milk to an alarming E extent . ven the National Food Administration for a short time recommended saving in the wrong place , ri forgetting that , at the highest ﬁgures reached du ng the temporary shortage , milk was still one of the cheap est of foods and that it was absolutely indispensable for growing children and exceedingly beneﬁcial for men and women who were called upon to exercise their B ut physical and mental powers as never before . with

X1 xii IN TRODUCTION men like Dean Russell of the Wisc onsm Agricultural L College in the Department and Dr . Graham usk of Cornell University representing the United States

- C on the Inter Allied ouncil of Alimentation , the Food Administration could not long maintain this mistaken attitude but quickly j oined the College authorities and the representatives of the dairy industry In advocating a liberal use of milk . And the Department of Agri culture sent out over the country a large force of dem onstrators to show the people how to use milk in making cottage cheese and many other ways , and Agricultural C B E olleges , Farm ureaus and Home conomics Agents worked hand in hand with Washington in disseminating the knowledge of handling and utilizing milk . A genuine interest has been aroused in our country in “ the economy and conservation of food , and in The Story of Milk ” the author hopes to place at the dis posal of the student Of Domestic Science a compre h ensiv e book of reference which may open the eyes of many to the fact that there is no more interesting sub ” j c e t than Milk in connection with the study of the welfare and physical improvement of humanity , and that milk and its products should be used to a much x greater e tent than heretofore . It would make a long list of references if the author S hould mention the sources on which he has drawn for information beyond his own life—long experience in the d x airy and related industries . He desires to e press his sincere appreciation of the kindness and ready response O f institutions and friends to whom he has appealed for photographs and cuts Which have enabled him to i llustrate the text so liberally . In the back of the book will be found a brief bibliography of standard dairy IN TRODUCTION literature in which students may ﬁnd material for further information . Many interesting data and S everal excellent illustra tions have been obtained from the bulletins and c olle c tions of the Department of Agriculture in Washin gton Y M Wis and the Dairy Schools at Ithaca , N . . , adison , , and Ames , Ia . The Chapter on Milk Cookery was written and classi ’ ﬁ e d S by the author wife , whose practical experience will make it useful alike to housekeepers and students of Domestic Science . E E E N J . D . FR D RIKS . L Y ittle Falls , N . . , A ril 1 9 1 9 . p ,

HISTORI CA L

Milk and its products have been known and used from B time immemorial . In the ible milk and milk foods G n e . are mentioned in some thirty places . In we ’ read % and he (Abraham s servant) took butter 1 and milk and set it before them Sam . “ % And Jesse said unto David , his son bring these ten cheeses unto the captain of their thousand and look P “ how thy brethren fare rov . For the

n -h churni g of milk bringeth fort butter , etc . Though in some of these passages butter is mentioned it is hardly probably that this product was really made or used at the time under the climatic conditions in M Palestine . ore likely it was various kinds of curd and cheese which the translator called butter . At any

- Off rate , the Hebrews of that far day coveted milk and n its products amo g their most valued foods . From E R gyptian , Greek and oman history it appears that knowledge of cheese goes back to the most ancient times and that it was made from the milk of sheep , m goats , cows , asses , ares , in fact from all domestic L E animals ; in the far North , apps and skimos still m ake it from the milk of the reindeer , the Arabs use ’ L C camel s milk , lama cheese is famous in the ordilleras % C and ebu cheese in eylon and India . Even in ancient times the great food value of dairy P % products was recognized . linius tells of oroaster that for twenty years he lived exclusively on cheese , and P n lutarch calls cheese one of the most ourishing of foods .

As time went by , the cow excelled all other domestic xvi HI S TORICAL animals in capacity for the production of milk and by constant use through centuries for the one special pur —b pose , y care in feeding , breeding and selection ,

F m M aelke ritid end e C e e ( ro , op nhag n) special breeds of cattle were developed which gave milk in extraordinarily large quantities . In the cold climate of the northern countries where butter will keep for a long time it has been made for centuries . The illustration above is from a mural paint E at ing in an old church in Finland . vidently the time when that was built the devil already played havoc with the churn and even up to the d ays O f our grand fathers his Satanic Maj esty was Often accused of pre “ ” venting the butter from coming . HISTORI CAL xvii

Not until the middle of the nineteenth century did dairying take its place among the important industries of the world and science begin to be applied in its de l m n B 1 1 v e o e t. 60 7 p etween 8 and 8 0 Thomas R . ” S e elcke g , the Father of Scientiﬁc Dairying in Den in mark , introduced the thermometer churning instead O f the rule of thumb and started the keepin g of records

a . in the m nufacture of butter N . J . Fj ord started a

m T R . S e ck L B e el e . . ho as g , Arnold , not d e e ﬁ 0 e e e fath r o f s c i n t i dairy xp rt and writ r, r e m H e me C dai ying in D n ark of rki r ounty, N Y . .

series of experiments in the creameries , continued r th ough the next decades , and which became models for similar work throughout the world , covering pas teurization , ice houses and cold storage , comparison between various systems for raising the cream , separa tors , feeding rations , etc . , and Denmark developed its agriculture and dairy industry to an enviable position . ﬁ About the same time Dr . Schatzman applied scienti c methods in cheese making in Switzerland and Jesse Williams started the ﬁrst American cheese factory near

Y L B X . Rome , N . . , while . . Arnold , A . Willard , Harris xviii HIS TO RICAL

L B ewis , Harry urrell and many other progressive dairy C men made Herkimer ounty cheese famous .

From New York , dairy farming spread rapidly west M ward through Ohio to ichigan and Northern Illinois , E where butter making was developed around lgin , and W to isconsin , where Governor Hoard preached the B gospel of progress, abcock invented and gave to the

R M n d th e G e . . . . H . o ra J . , o v r n o r W D J A uddick , Dairy ” P I nk H C O m m i o e en and butte r oard , of Wisconsin , i s s n r o f make r of N ew York promotor of progressive C anada P me roduce Revie w thods of dairying, world the famous test that bears his name and Russell made a specialty of dairy bacteriology . M onrad C J . H . , Assistant Dairy ommissioner of i Illinois , student , writer and lecturer on da ry sub ec ts j , collected and indexed one of the most com plete and valuable librari es O f dairy literature found w 1 9 1 5 any here , which after his death in was taken hr over and installed in special rooms by C . Han ’ L C sen s aboratorium in openhagen , where a librarian

is keeping it up to date and it is open to the public . R C C . In anada , Dairy ommissioners Jas . W obertson M M Ph “ C . R . . c erson and J A uddick , D , the heese

XX HIS TORICAL

Although the table accounts for all the milk pro d uc ed , it does not tell the whole story , since the prep aration of a number of products results in the formation

of vast quantities of b y - products that are not used to

the fullest advantage for human food . New York City alone consumes quarts of milk a day , but even this enormous quantity means n only pint per capita . The consumi g public has S been low to realize the value of milk and its products , and too much emphasis cannot be laid upon the fact that even at the largely increased cost of all dairy products they are still some of the cheapest and the

most healthful of foods , especially for growing children ,

and should be used in much larger quantities . THE STORY OF M ILK

THE STO RY O F MI LK

C HAPTER I

D N C M S N A N D C E PRO UCTIO , O PO ITIO HARACT RI S TICS OF M M E RME N TS P S E U % I N ILK , ILK F , A T RI AT O

DAIRY CATTLE A number of typical but widely different breeds of dairy cows have been developed in various dairy coun n tries , each owi g to the soil and the climatic conditions of its home , as well as to the skill and fancy of the breeders its characteristic features form color etc . , — , , , - - M ilk Bre e d s . The black and white H olstein Friesians

(which , by the way , had their home in Holland and not in Holstein) are known for their large production of not very rich milk , while the Guernseys and Jer seys give milk exceed

- ingly rich in butter fat . A good Holstein cow will give from to Holstein lbs . of milk in a year,

4 - contain ing from to % butter fat . Some of them in a produce as much as to lbs . a ye r nearly gallons—j ust think of it % Jersey cows will usually not produce as much in quantity as the Hol steins but Jersey milk often contains 5% or 6% or more

N M S N A D PRODUCTIO , CO PO ITIO N CHARACTE RIS TIC S 3

- butter fat , and a few of the best have been known to 800 900 . produce to lbs of butter in one year , an amount equal to the cow ’s own weight . The red D anish cow is an exceedingly good and highly bred milk pro d ucer which , however , has not been in troduced in the United States , but the Scotch Ayrshires and the B rown S wiss are other Gue rnsey well - known dairy breeds

which are in favor with many American farmers .

Je rsey cows 4 TH E S TORY OF MILK

B ut % , alas too many herds of dairy cattle average less of than lbs . milk per cow per year and do not

pay for their feed . Many native cows re s ond p , however, to good care and feed and with a thoroughbred bull a satisfactory herd can readily be built up from carefully selected native Red Danish stock . Such continued cross - breeding is more apt to succeed than attempts to cross two thorough - bred breeds because the char ac teristic features in full f b lood ed animals are so strong as to in variably predominate in the progeny over the less pronounced forms and tendencies inherent Bu in native cows . t Ayrshire where two full - blooded animals are mated and the strong characteristics in each are ﬁghting for predominance the result

is apt to be a poor, ill proportioned offspring as the result of—atavism . B - e e f C attl e . C a t t l e bred and developed for the purpose of pro

S t ee - d uc in hor horn , b f strain g beef rather than

N M S N A ND E S S 7 PRODUCTIO , CO PO ITIO CHARACT RI TIC is not the place here to go deeper into this problem which has long been a subj ect for thorough research and experiments . In fact , more attention has been paid to the feeding of cattle than to the proper nourish ment of human beings , and much of what we know about the latter has been deducted from experience and study on the dairy farm , and from laboratory work “ M along that line . In the chapter on ilk as a Food we are taking up food values , etc . , in relation to the feeding of children and men . Sufﬁce it here to say that the same fundamental principles apply to the feed ing of calves and cattle for the production of milk and nd beef . A we wish to emphasize the fact that , with due consideration to the proper proportion between the m various groups of nutrients , it is much more i portant that the food is succulent , appetizing and easily digest S ible than that the ration hall be accurately balanced .

This fact , long well known to practical breeders and E dairymen , has recently been conﬁrmed by Dr . . V . M c Cullom to whose experiments further reference is made in the chapter on milk as a food for children . He shows that there is a very great difference in the quality of Protein and Fat from various sources and that there ”

- is Something Unknown in butter fat , for instance , which is absent in most other fats and which is vital for the growth of the child as well as for the proper nourishment of man . This unknown but essential sub in stance is also found , small quantities , in the leaves O f in certain plants , as alfalfa , while it is absent in the grain of the cereals . In modern dairy farming alfalfa is c—onsidered an in dispensable source for protein , and corn ensilage or beets for carbohyd rates , while bran , cottonseed meal or oil

N M S N A N D E S S PRODUCTIO , CO PO ITIO CHARACT RI TIC 9

’

- cake , malt sprouts , gluten , distillers grain , etc . , may

be used to advantage in various combinations . Contrary to a general impression one cannot feed fat

in to the milk . A large amount of oil cake or other food rich in fat in the daily ration does not increase the per

- in R centage of butter fat the milk . ather , it depends largely upon the breed and to some extent upon the P period of lactation . rovided the food agrees with her digestion and keeps the cow in a good , healthy condi

Cows milked with machine

tion , the composition of the milk is not changed to any

- appreciable extent by a change in make up of the food . It goes without saying that to produce from 20 to 50

lbs . of milk a day the cow must have an abundance of resh ure w ater S f , p to drink and she hould not have access to stagnant water . Th e Barn must be clean , light and well ventilated and the cows should be milked with clean hands into a clean pail which is covered as far as possible so as to prevent

dust from falling into the milk , or with one of the excellent milking machines which are now frequently i used in large dairies . The milk is stra ned and cooled

immediately after milking . 1 0 THE S TO RY O F MILK — M ilking . The cows are usually milked twice a day ;

occasionally , when the highest possible yield is desired , r ti as in important tests , three or fou mes . The ﬁrst l — ﬁve days after the birth of the ca f the milk , the C — olostrum so called , is not normal and should not be used

for human consumption . It

may be fed to the calf . The ﬁrst three to four months the yield of milk generally is

higher than later , when it gradually drops until after about ten months it stops al together and the cow goes “ dry at least for some six weeks before dropping the Milking machine next calf . The highest annual “ ” yield may be obtained by having the cows c Ome in in the Fall or early Winter and feeding them well all Winter to keep up an abun dant ﬂow of milk . Then , when they come out on p a s t u r e i n t h e —in Spring , the lati tude of the Great Lakes about M ay 1 5 th , t h e fresh , rich feed will stimu I n th e partly cove re d milk- pail dust do e s not late production and fall as re adily as in th e on e e ntire ly O pe n give it a fresh start

so that the milk - pail may continue to be ﬁlled during the next few months and the S hrinkage of the yield will N M S N A ND E S S 1 1 PRODUCTIO , CO PO ITIO CHARACT RI TIC

l d r not occur unti the time when the pastures y up . a The cow will then go dry in the e rly Fall , when feed to is scarce . Usually , however, the cows are allowed “ come in in the Spring and the yield of milk begins

Milking on a Danish farm to shrink in the late Summer with little or nothin g in the Winter . — Te st th e Cows . To ascertain if a cow pays for her feed the amount and the quality of the milk should m be tested and computed for the year . If the milk fro each cow cannot be weighed every day it may be done

regularly once a month or preferably Oftener . If it is weighed mornin g and evening once every ten days it is easy to keep the account by multiplyin g the number 1 2 TH E S TORY OF MILK

of pounds by ten and adding the totals for the year . Occasionally the milk may be subj ected to the Babcock Test to ascertain its richness ; three or four times during

the period of lactation is sufﬁcient . Where farmers do not have time to do the test ing themselves they often combine and hire a young man or woman , trained in an agricultural college , to go around from farm to farm and do the work . These experts not only test the yield and the percentage of fat but also weigh and compute the feed so as to help the farmer make up his rations and calculate whether each cow pays for her feed or not . The members of these associations meet and compare notes and a friendly rivalry is stimulated which may do much c toward increasing produ tion . As a matter of fact , C ow where Test Associations have been introduced , both yield and quality of the milk have been largely increased . H e alth y Cows alone can be depended upon to pro

- duce sanitary milk . In many herds of milk cows tuber c ulosis is prevalent , and constant vigilance is necessary Tu bercu lin Test to prevent its spread . The discovered by Koch is invaluable for the purpose of ascertaining the presence of tuberculosis . It is not necessary, how ever , to kill every infected animal . Only where the lungs or the udder is affected and a physical exam inatl on shows an advanced stage of the disease such radical means are advisable . When the tuberculin test was ﬁrst introduced many valuable herds were wantonly and foolishly killed off because some of the highly de v eloped dairy cows Showed reaction to the test while worthless scrubs were allowed to live and spread the

- disease . For only the intelligent and public spirited

1 4 S TORY O F MILK

M INERAL MATTER animal and v e ge soup s NOT FAT M' LK SUGAR table fats , but the TOTAL s ouos CAS EIN % ALBUMIN S light variation BUTTER FAT may make a lot C m o position of of difference in digestibility ’ cow s mi lk and palatability as well as in n v and utritive alue , it is a mistake to consider

n B - B Oleomargari e, utterine , Nut utter and “ o t h e r sub sti tutes for butter just as good b e c a u s e a chemical analysis shows them ” to contain al most the same elements b or compounds . These products may e good and legitimate if sold for what they are , but should never be allowed to be sold or served for what they are not , genuine butter . Cas e in a n d Alb umin are the proteids or S n i t r O g e n o u matters of the milk , in chemical c o m p o s i t i o 1 1 and in food value much the same as the protein in beans and peas or C in meat , or the white of eggs . asein is present in much larger quantity than albumin and is d i s t i n guish e d from the latter by being pre c i itated f p b y rennet , which has no e fect on C a albumin . sein may also be precipitated by acids , while it requires boiling as well as acid ity to throw the albumin out of solution .

Milk - S u ar g is related to the vegetable sugars ,

0 . glucose , a n e sugar , etc , and remains in solu t i o n i n t h e whey which separates out from the cheese - curd when milk is curdled with ren net or acids . The whey also contains the mineral ash matters or , which consists largely of phosphate u of lime , of use to the yo ng in building up bones . N M S N A ND E S S 1 PRODUCTIO , CO PO ITIO CHARACT RI TIC 5

When whey is boiled down to a thick syrup and left to stand , the sugar will crystallize out and may

Cre am Whol e milk Skim milk

Fat globules as they appe ar unde r th e microscop e

be separated from the liquid , still holding in solution the mineral matters—. Mine ral M atters These may be gathered as ash by boilin g off the water from this liquid or from the whole milk and burning the rest , as all the constituents except the ash belong to what in chemistry is called organic matter , which d isappears in the air by burn In g .

H O W TO TE S T MILK

Milk may be adulterated or de creased in value either by skimming or by watering . In either case the 1 B “ D r ° percentage of the most valuable con ‘ 4 al % % III a3l esIS ' son’ stituent - i n , the butter fat , is d mi i h d t s e . It is upon this fact tha the most practical

B . test , the abcock , is based 1 6 TH E S TORY OF M ILK

* —B Th e Bab cock Te st. y treating a sample of milk with strong sulphuric acid the butter - fat is liberated as

B abcock t e st outﬁt

O il B an . y subj ecting the mixture to centrifugal force the light butter oil is separated from the rest of the

Th e B abcock Test is ope rate d as follows % Whe n th e milk has be en thoroughly mixe d and a true sample has be e n take n th e pipette is ﬁlled to th e mark by sucking th e milk into it until it S tands a little above th e m th e e m e k e e th e end ark on st , th n quic ly placing a dry ﬁng r ov r of m th e pipe tte and allowing th e milk to e scap e until it j ust re ach e s th e ark . Th m o Th e e e e m e e quantity thus e asure d ff is c c . pipe tt is th n pti d into th e test bottle by placing th e point in th e ne ck and allowing th e milk th e e th e e e e to flow slowly down insid of n ck , taking car not to los any

B th e h e e . of th e milk . low last drops out of th e pip e tte into t bottl Th e measu in lass e th e m r g g , holding c . c . , is ﬁll d to ark with sulphu ric acid of a spe ciﬁc gravity of to and this is poure d into N M S N A ND E PRODUCTIO , CO PO ITIO CHARACT RI S TIC S 1 7

i milk and the percentage can be easily determ ned . Centrifugal force had already been used in the Fj ord C ream Test , but it remained for Dr . Babcock to work out the splendid practical and reliable test which bears his name and in which he has given to the world an invention of incal ul b l c a e valu—e . S amplin g Whether it is new milk A two - bottle machine or skim milk or buttermilk or cream that is to be tested the ﬁrs t thing to observe is to take tru l re resentative sam le a y p p . The liquid must be thor oughly mixed by pouring it several times from one ves

sel to another , or stirring vigorously .

m h Th m b e th e ilk in t e test bottle . e acid is a strong poison and ust P n th e th e e h andle d with care . our it slowly dow along wall of bottl

which is he ld at an angle and turne d slowly during th e O p e ration . N ow give th e bottle a rotary motion to thoroughly mix th e milk th th e e nd th e O e and e acid , shaking vigorously towards of p ration so as to b e sure not to l e ave any of th e acid which is h e avi e r than th e milk h at t e bottom—of th e bottle . i Th e e re h m e Wh rling . bottl s a th e n placed in t e —centrifugal achin and whirled for ﬁ v e mi—nute s at th e prop e r spee d from 600 to 1 200 revolutions p er minute according to th e diamete r of th e machine h Th e mix and as stat e d in th e dire ctions which come with t e t e st e r . e m e th e i e e tur of ilk and acid is hot nough if wh rling is don at onc , but if it is allowe d to cool th e bottle s should b e placed in hot wate r of 1 50 ° to 1 70 for about 1 5 minutes ; whirling at full sp ee d for 4 minut e s brings h h all t e fat to t e top . H ot wat e r is now added until th e bottle is ﬁlled almost to th e scal e on th e n e ck and th e bottl es are again place d in th e machine and whirled H at full speed for one minut e . ot wate r is th e n again adde d until th e e end th e m th e e e e th e low r of fat colu n is within scal , pr f rably at 1 m h e h e m e % or 2 % ark on t e n ck of t e bottle . Whirl onc or for

one or two minut e s and th e n re ad O ff th e p e rcentage of fat on th e scale . Th e m m m Each div ision repre sents fat . fat colu n is e asured fro th e lowe r line b e twe en th e fat and th e wate r to th e point wh e re th e top re of th e fat column touch e s th e wall of th e ne ck . A pair of divide rs a handy for me asuring th e fat column and reading off th e perc entage of 1 8 TH E S TORY OF MILK

It may not always be convenient to make a test im

mediately when the sample is taken . In the creamery where the milk is paid for according to its fat con ’ tents , samples are taken every day from every patron s milk and it would take too much time for the butter maker to test all of these samples before —they would spoil . A preservative corrosive sublimate poisonous , — , but all right for the purpose , is therefore added and all the samples of one farmer ’s milk for several days or a whole week are put together in one glass to be kept and tested at one time . This is called a composite test

and has proven entirely satisfactory . Th e Lactome te r has been used to discover adultera f tions , depending upon the di ference in speciﬁc gravity

of the various constituents . The speciﬁc gravity of whole milk is about which means that , if a certain

volume of water weighs weight units , the same volume of whole milk weighs the same volume

- 900 of butter fat weighs , say , . , or of cream about S 1 3 L and of kim milk 20 6 units . If the actometer shows a sample of milk to have a higher speciﬁc gravity than it may therefore be suspected of having been But skimmed . it will readily be seen that by removing

from whole milk some of the cream and adding water , the speciﬁc gravity can easily be brought back to normal

for whole milk . This test is therefore unreliable and has B been discarded with the advent of the abcock .

— ° h m Th e b m 1 40 fat in t e ilk . bottle with contents should e war about h m wh en t e e asure is take n . Fo—r t esting Skim milk and cre am spe cial forms of te st bottle s are used which are describe d in th e circulars coming with th e t esters and stud ents who d esire fulle r information are re fe rre d to Farrington and ’ “ ” Te M P e th e Me Woll s sting ilk and its roducts , publish d by ndota

B C . M . ook o , adison , Wis D O N M S O N A N D E PRO UCTI , CO PO ITI CHARACT RIS TICS 1 9

* — cid i Te s . A ty t The acidity , or sourness , of milk or cream , which depends upon the amount of lactic acid developed in it , may be tested by a liquid normal alkali or by the Farrington Alkalin e

Tablets , a solution of which added to sour milk neutralizes the acid . A few drops of i P an ndicator , henol th alein p , added to the milk , turns it pink when all the acid has been neutralized , and the amount of alkali solution used shows the percentage of acid in the milk . This is quite important in preparing “ starters ” for ripening the cream

’ in butter making 01 Th e acid emeter milk in cheese mak C B ing , and in the manufacture of ommercial utter l ” mi k , etc .

Th e A cid Testdepends upon what in th e laboratory is called titra “ ” m e use e e e me n e tion and ak s of a bur tt , a long , graduat d asuri g tub

- T e e e l provided with a pinch cock . his bur tt is ﬁll d with an a kali solu ” e e m tion of known str ngth , usually a t nth nor al solution of caustic e m th e m b e e e me s e off soda . A c rtain a ount of ilk to t st d is a ur d into AS e e e th e a glass or a white porcelain cup . a pip tt b longing to

B ma b e e e . abcock t est usually is at hand , that y us d for this purpos few I ndicato e th e m l e A drops of an r is add d to i k , and und r constant stirring th e soda solution is allowed to drip into it until suddenly it turns 20 TH E S TORY OF MILK

There are other tests used in scientiﬁc dairying as the F ermentation Test to ascertain the relative purity of

Casein Test . milk , the , etc , but the above are those mostly used besides the B acterial Count which is men “ ” i n d M t o e under the chapter on ilk Supply, and the C M ” Rennet Test described under heese aking .

F E RME N TS Two classes of ferments are of importance in con “ ” ne c tion with milk % ( 1 ) unorganized or chemical fer 2 “ ments , the enzymes , and ( ) organized ferments

such as bacteria and yeast .

E nzymes — Re nn e t A Rennet mong the unorganized ferments , or Rennin is highly important on account of its power of coagulating or curdling milk by precipitation of the R casein . ennet is extracted from the stomach of the

- in suckling or milk fed calf , where it serves digesting ’ the calf s food . It is in the market in the form of a liquid extract as well as a dry powder compressed into

Th l f w m . e i e e e e e pink color wil quickly d sapp ar, how v r, and a or drops of th e alkali are adde d and stirre d in seve ral times until a faint m m m T e th e but distinct pink color re ains for so e ti e . hat indicat s that th e m e e e i e th e m th e acid in ilk has b n n utral z d , and a ount of soda solu ff B tion consume d is th e n re ad O on th e scale on th e bure tte . y dividing m h h r th e e c c . t e e t e e e e t nu b r of of soda solution us d by two , t nths p c n h h m m 4 . t e c t e . For e e e c c of lacti acid in ilk is found xa pl , if it tak s of e m l th e T d e soda solution to n utralize i k , acidity is his

h e 1 e m e e . 009 pe nds upon t fact that c . c . of a t nth nor al soda n utraliz s gram of lactic acid and that th e re fore th e p e r c ent of acid in th e milk 009 m e h m e e is e qual to . ultipli d by t e nu b r of of soda solution us d , 1 h m m m e 00. div ided by t e nu be r of c o. of ilk and ultipli d by m e If 50 c c . of ilk is taken instead of th e calculation is chang d accordingly .

22 TH E S TORY OF MILK lactic acid produced by them would play havoc with the E food and produce putrefaction or disease . verybody who handles milk knows that pure sour milk or butter milk in which lactic acid bacteria abound keeps well for a long time , free from other fermentations which have no chance to develop in their presence . It is due to this purifying property that Metchnikoff re c om B mended ulgarian sour milk as a health food , asserting that it prevents harmful fermentations in the digestive channel .

The Control of B acteria The principal means at our disposal to prevent or control and regulate bacterial growth are % Clean liness H eat Cold Disin ec tants and f . ,— , Cl e anline s s Only the most scrupulous cleanliness will prevent contamination . Hence the necessity of thorough scouring and sterilizing of all utensils , and the need—for fresh air and pure water . H e at The prevention of fermentation in milk by heating is called “ sterilization ” or “ pasteurization according to the intensity of the heat and the length B n of time the milk is subj ected to it . oili g destroys m al ost all bacterial life . Some germs require , however , °

250 . exposure to a much higher temperature , up to F

(boiling under pressure) , to be entirely eradicated , but for all practical purposes a thorough boilin g is c onsid ered sufﬁcient to eliminate all danger of contamination . S S terilization uch boiling is usually termed . Cooling checks bacterial growth and but few germs 50° thrive at a temperature below F . The following table and diagram S how how quickly bacteria multiply

’ F me B 2 e No . 60 U . S e . e . ar rs ull tin , . D pt of Agricultur e s De s rr o e d

' ‘ Rae lgur iz mg Tém

0 n c e la

‘ ’ a T‘ fﬁ al ‘ ’ c ra lure unfi td l ve - t c i rc d. e Cus r tome .

P i e th e T o Effect of he ating mil k to various t empe rature s . ubl sh d by oront Board of H e alth 24 TH E S TORY OF MILK

68 ° in milk at ordinary room temperature , to which emphasizes the importance of keeping milk cool .

Relative grow th of bacteria when held at diﬂ erent temperatures

No . of e At end At end At end At end Tern . of bact ria of of 4 h s 24 r . 1 2 . . 0 Milk p er at of 6 hrs . of hrs hrs beginn ing

If the milk had contained bacteria per cubic °

50 . centimeter at the beginning , the part held at F

Th e diagram (afte r Conn) shows th e rapidity with which bacteria multiply e in milk not prope rly cooled . A singl bacte rium (a) in 24 hours multiplied to ° m e 50 F re re 5 (b) in ilk k pt at . ; (c) p sents th e numbe r that develop from a single bacterium in milk kept 24 hours ° Milk at 70 F . would have contained bacteria at the end of 24 °

68 . hours , while that held at F would have contained D N M S N A ND E PRO UCTIO , CO PO ITIO CHARACT RIS TICS 25

The effect of temperature upon the growth u of bacteria is shown graphically in the o t. B rost d oes not ill ut even f k the bacteria . If milk which has been kept sweet or at the desired degree of r sourness by cooling is allowed to get wa m again , the bacteria whi ch have been kept dormant will get a fresh start . For this reason milk and cream for city supply should not only be cooled strongly , but must be kept thoroughly chilled up to the time they are used , which means that they should be delivered cool to the con sumer , and kept on ice in the house , never being allowed to warm up unt—il used . isinf e ctan ts D Antiseptics , such as benzoate of soda ,

. in formalin , boracic acid , etc , are not permissible disin ec tants m milk , but f such as soda , li e , washing i powders , etc . , should be freely used in clean ng uten sils , bottles , floors and walls where milk is handled S O as to prevent as far as possible any infection .

PAS TE UR I%ATION Pasteurization depends upon the a fact that almost all bacteri , and especially the disease - producing spe in cies , are checked their growth and made harmless , if not totally de stroyed , by Instantaneous exposure L P e o u i s a s t u r, 1 ° F u 75 . to a temperat re of , or a Fre nch scientist and more or less prolonged exposure to originator of th e proc e ss °f aS teum auon a p lower temperature , for instance for 20 minutes to 1 57 ° or 3 0 minutes to These lower temperatures are recommended in the case of new milk to be consumed as such , in order not to change its 26 TH E S TORY OF MILK

P digestibility . asteurizers with holding devices are therefore largely taking the place of the continuous ” x sterilizing machines , which allow only momentary e r p osu e to the highest temperature . Whatever method is used it is essential that after the heatin g is ﬁnished the milk S hould be cooled as quickly as possible to a temperature sufﬁciently low to prevent development of the germs that have not been entirely destroyed by the heat and which , if the milk is left for any length of time at a temperature favorable for — ° — bacterial life anyw here between 65 and will C 60° begin to grow again . ool the milk to below and ° if p ossible to 50 or

Sometimes a second pasteurization is practiced , the ° ° milk being purposely allowed to stand at 70 to 80 for 1 2 to 24 hours after the ﬁrst pasteurization for the germs which escaped destruction to develop into full n grow bacteria . They are then killed by the second heating before the milk is ﬁnally chilled to stop any further growth . Pasteurization can be done by placing the milk in any tin or enamelled or glass vessel , set in another vessel containing water (a double boiler) . Heat until the milk has reached the desired temperature , hold it at . that temperature the necessary time , and then place the vessel in cold running water or in ice water until the milk is thoroughly chilled . It is not advisable to place the hot milk in the ice box as cooling in air is too

S low . Not until it is thoroughly cooled in water is it safe to put it in the ice box to keep it cool . P a In the seventies rof . N . J . Fj ord , in Denmark , p plied to milk the process which had been developed by Louis Pasteur in France to give keeping quality to wine O O N OM O S ON AND E S S 2 PR DUCTI , C P ITI CHARACT RI TIC 7

. M and beer A Danish dairy expert , J . oldenhauer , now connected with the New York State Department r h of Agriculture , ﬁ st brought t e process to this country and used pasteurization in a city creamery in

Kentucky . American experiment stations established the tempera tures and the time of exposur e nec es sary for best results , and no one has done more for the introduction of pasteurization than the New York philanthropist , Nathan Straus , who N J F or i D at has established pasteurizing plants ; i f » m e smator and milk distributing stations in v g i many localities , thereby contribut ng so largely to the

Th e Straus Pasteuriz er lowering of the death rate among the children of the poor . The following directions are given by the Straus 28 TH E S TORY O F MILK

Pasteurized Milk Laboratories of New York for the pasteurization of milk for babies % 1 . Only use fresh , ﬁltered milk , which has been kept % cold , and proceed as follows

bottles , after they have been thoroughly

A continuous pasteurize r

cleaned , into the tray (a) , ﬁll them to the neck , and put on the corks or patent stoppers .

3 . The pot (b) is then placed on a wooden surface (table or floor) and ﬁlled to the three supports (in the pot) with boiling water . 4 P . lace tray (a) , with the ﬁlled bottles , into the pot

(b) , so that the bottom of the tray rests on the three supports , and put cover (c) on quickly .

3 0 TH E S TORY OF MILK

In a Continu ous P asteurizer a constant stream of

milk is fed into the machine , heated by ﬂowing over a metal surface with steam or hot water on the opposite S ide , and cooled by running over a cooler furnished

with a stream of cold water or ice water .

PURE CULTURE S Before 1 890 it was supposed that the ﬂavor of ﬁne butter depended upon certain volatile oils and acids

- peculiar to butter fat . In the early P nineties rofessor V . Storch of the Danish Experiment Station

showed , however , that it was due rather to the products of bacteria and he isolated the lactic acid bacilli which would produce such exquisi te ﬂavor even when per fe c tly neutral and tasteless butter fat was churned with milk acidiﬁed P e V . S rof ssor torch , or i i originator of p ure cul r pened W th a pure culture of e e tur s for rip ning these bacilli . In this country Dr . c re m m k a and il C nn . W . W H o of esleyan University, C Storrs , onn . , did much to advance the theory and t practice of ripening cream with a pure cul ure starter . ‘Pure cultures ” are produced in the bacteriological laboratory by picking out under the microscope col onie s of the desired species of bacteria , planting them in a sterilized medium and allowing them to grow under the most favorable conditions and with the exclusion O f all other germs . When such a culture has reached its maximum growth it is transplanted in to a larger quantity of a sterilized

medium containing proper nourishment for the par~ D N M S A D PRO UCTIO , CO PO ITION N CHARACTE RIS TICS 3 1

i l r t c u a . organism In the bacteriological laboratory, l where alone absolute steri ity of utensils and medium ,

and entire exclusion of foreign infection are possible , the culture may remain pure while this inoculation and B propagation are repeated over and over again . ut when the propagation is carried on in the house or the n dairy, for instance in prepari g starters or buttermilk ,

l c ticus S N 1 B e m m S a to . 8 S treptococcus ( rch , o ) act riu lactis acidi (fro torch) such absolute cleanliness is impossible and in the long run infections will creep in from the air or from the utensils and after a while it becomes necessary to “ ” start with a new pure culture . How Often such renewal must be resorted to depends largely upon the

' th o r tor surroundings and the care of e p e a . Usually it ’ must be done after a week s time , although it is sur prising to ﬁnd milk preparations made by the simplest processes equal in purity to those prepared with the

assistance of bacteriological science and technique . B This is , for instance , the case in ulgaria , where the famous Yoghourt sour milk is prepared pure without 3 2 TH E S TORY OF MILK special care and in Denmark where the country is fairly permeated with the lactic acid bacilli used in ripening the cream for the celebrated Danish butter and where careful b u ttermakers often maintain their starters for “ ” months or even for years without renewal . There are many different varieties of bacteria which convert sugar of milk into lactic acid , at the same time developing ﬂavors more or less agreeable and charac teristic for the various

products . In the bac teriologic al laboratory certain species are se le c ted which will pro duce the results de sired for the particular p urpose in—view . S tarte rs Begin ning with a commercial dry culture in the form of a powder as generally used in the creamery 0 0 Ty n ea a fc ctem or the cheese factory gﬁi gségrgf as well as for the prepa of m ration com ercial buttermilk , or with buttermilk tab in n lets as used the ordi ary household or the hospital , such culture is added to a small quantity of thoroughly pasteurized milk . If fresh , sweet skim milk is available it is preferable to whole milk as the butter - fat in the latter only interferes with the process ; but either can be used . Milk for starters should be strongly pasteurized by being kept at a temperature near th e boiling point 1 80° — 40 60 at least for to minutes , then cooled to the 65 ° degree at which it is to be set , usually between and N M S N A ND E S S PRODUCTIO , CO PO ITIO CHARACT RI TIC 3 3,

somewhat higher for the first propagation with the pure culture than for the subsequent transplantings when the bacteria , more or less dormant in the dry powder or tablets , have attained full vitality . Some i B Bul aricus r species of bacter a , as the acillus g , requi e — ° ° ° — higher temperatures 90 to 1 00 or even 1 1 0 than in others , The culture hav g been thoroughly incor p orated in the milk by vigorous and repeated stirrin g or i shak ng , the milk is left at rest in an incubator or a w aterb ath or wrapped in paper or cloth in a warm room where an even temperature can be maintained , until 1 24 it is curdled , which may take 8 to hours or even longer for the first propagation . One part of this curdled milk is now added to 5 or 1 0 parts of fresh pasteurized milk and set to ripen in the s ame way as described above , possibly at a little lower e temperature , and this is repeated ev ry day , thus main “ M ” taining the other Starter . After the second or third propagation the bulk of each batch is used as a starter in the larger lot of material to be ripened , be it cream for butter or milk for cheese or for commercial buttermilk , while a little is taken for maintenance of the mother starter as described above . The amount of starter to prepare every day depends upon the amount of milk or cream to be ripened and the per cent of starter used in same . For instance , if you have ten gallons of cream to ripen every day in hi 1 0 1 2 w ch you wish to use about % or % starter , or one l ga lon , take a little less than one pint of the first or second propagation for one gallon of milk ; the next day use one pint of this to add to a gallon of fresh starter milk , and the remaining gallon to add to the ten gallons of cream , and so on every day . TH E S TORY O F MILK

If you have lbs . of milk in the cheese vat to

2 80 . 88 ripen with % or lbs starter , prepare lbs . of

mother starter . If , on the other hand , you wish to make only a quart of buttermilk every day , take , say,

two buttermilk tablets , crush them thoroughly in a spoonful of pasteurized milk and stir this into a tum b lerful of the same milk ; let stand till it is thickened the next day and use a tablespoonful of this thickened milk in a quart of fresh pasteurized milk which when ripened is your buttermilk , from which you take out a tablespoonful for starter in the next batch , and so on . In this case there is no “ mother starter ” except that perhaps the first tumblerful prepared with the tablets may be called so , but afterwards the starter is taken right out of the finished product every day . The process may be modified to suit special purposes and local conditions , but the following precautions should be strictly observed % ( 1 ) to interrupt the ripen ing immediately by quick and intense cooling as soon as it has reached the proper point in case the ripened

IS 2 kee - product not used at once , and ( ) to p it ice cold

Is . until it used If this is done , it may be kept for two or three days without deterioration if it is not c onv en i nt e to make it fresh every day which , however , should

be the rule . CHAPTER II

MILK SUPPLY A N D CRE AME RY PRODUCTS

’ In the ﬁr st chapter the composition of cow s milk and the nature of its constituents have been considered , the most important tests for its richn ess and purity have been described , and the ferments have been men tioned which instigate changes for good or for bad , together with the means at disposal for regulating their n activity . To use these means intelligently in handli g milk and its products is the key to the dairyman ’s success . We shall now brieﬂy consider the various steps that are of importance in modern dairy industry .

MILK S UPPLY ﬁ In the rst place , the farmer must furnish pure , clean , unadulterated milk , fresh from the cow and cooled

immediately after milking . His cows must be healthy . — Bo ine Tub e rcu osis M - v l any milk cows , for the very reason that they have been bred with the one purpose in view of turning all their food into milk and wasting

as little as possible in building up the body , are more

or less weak - chested and apt to suffer from tub ercu i t los s . Unless his disease is so far advanced as to a affect the general health of the cow , or it has spre d

to th e milk organs , the udder and the teats , it is not

so dangerous as has heretofore been supposed . It is now held by the great maj ority of physicians that 3 5 3 6 TH E S TORY OF MILK

bovine tuberculosis is hardly ever transmitted to grown

persons and seldom to children . Neither is it hered i r ta y . Nevertheless , wherever it is possible to have

the herd tested with tuberculin , segregating , if not

killing , the animals which show by reaction that they M are somewhat tuberculous , it should be done . ilk

from such cows S hould always be pasteurized . —A Milk as a Dis e as e Carrie r. greater danger lies

in the fact that , warm as it comes from the cow , milk is an ideal medium for human disease germs to grow

in , and may thus become a great conveyor of such

germs . For this reason it is of the greatest importance

that the milkers are healthy and clean , that the udders

and teats be free from dirt , and the milk pail covered

as far as possible ; the barn must be clean , and every

source of infection excluded . This fact also points to 23 the advisability of pasteurization . On page a chart S B is hown , published by the Toronto oard of Health and indicating the temperatures at which various germs of disease are mad—e harmless . Bacte rial Count The test for clean milk now mostly used is the “ Bacterial Count ” the number of bac — , — teria or rather colonies of bacteria found in a cubic

centimeter of the milk . It would be better if the nature or quality of the bacteria could be taken into c onsid c ration as well as the quantity , but that being as yet n impracticable , the next best thi g is to depend upon

the number . Ordinary good milk often contains hun

dreds of thousands of bacteria in a cubic centimeter, but where the greatest cleanliness is observed the number may be less than Certiﬁ e d Milk ac is now sold in many cities which ,

cording to varying city ordinances , is guaranteed to

THE S TORY O F MILK

be in sisted upon , and milk which nevertheless contains a large number of bacteria can be made safe by pas riz ion teu at . — Th e S anitary Cod e . The regulation of the produc tion and delivery of milk in cities and towns as well “ as at creameries and cheese factories , the Sanitary Code established by state and municipal health au th oritie s f , has been very e fective in improving the quality of the supply . So enormous have been the improvements in caring for and handling the products by the large establishments engaged in the delivery of milk as to make the increase in cost seem trifling com pared with the great benefit to the public health se cured by these agencies . — Ne Y r e Mil r w o k S tat k G ad ing . The New York State Board of Health prescribes a grading f or milk offered for sale , the most important features of which are as follows % — Certified Must be produced under specially sanitary conditions approved by a county medical commission . — Grade A Raw Cows must be tuberculin tested and milk must not contain over bacteria per cubic centimeter . — Grade A P asteurized Cows must be subj ected to physical examination and milk must not contain more than bacteria before , nor more than after pasteurization .

Other grades permitted under the rules , all subj ect % to inspection and approval of the authorities , are rade B a G R w . rad e B P asteurized G . rade aw G C R . rade C P asteuriz ed G . MILK S UPPLY A N D CRE AME RY PRODUCTS 3 9

Deliv eries must be made within a certain time after production or pasteurization , barns and milk stations are inspected , and altogether such safeguards are em ployed as to make the supply exceedingly safe and reliable . —In City D e live ry . villages and small cities the milk supply is still to a large extent in the hands of farmers who come to town early in the morning peddling their milk , Often at considerable waste of time for horse and man . Or a number of peddlers go over the same route so that it takes a dozen wagons to cover a town where three or four could do it . As long as there was no efﬁcient regulation as to price and quality such waste was perhaps unavoidable , as competition on the part of the producers and d istrib u tors was the only means of protection for the con But sumers . lately state and municipal control is being exercised to such an extent as to largely eliminate the danger of poor milk and exorbitant prices . Further development of organized delivery systems so much to be desired for sanitary as well as for economical reasons , may be looked for as soon as normal conditions return after the close of the war . The delivery of milk is one of the things that in the interest of public health must

co- o eration be under the strictest ofﬁcial control , and p between farmers and consumers is the logical system for elimination of unnecessary expenses of distribution in and for prompt and satisfactory service . Their terests are or should be identical and both classes are f hurt by ine ﬁcient and wasteful delivery . In the large cities there has grown up an industry which largely monopolizes the milk supply and which until lately was powerful enough to dictate prices and 40 TH E S TORY OF MILK

conditions both for producers and consumers . Several atte mpts have been made from time to time by farmers to combine to regulate prices and dictate the terms to in the middlemen . Such attempts have , however , variably failed as long as they were built on false economic principles and prompted by selfish interests ’ only . No farmers association can be strong enough to ignore the law of supply and demand , and it is only ’ quite recently that the D airymen s League has suc c e ed ed in influencing the market by taking into con sideration the actual cost of production of milk as n worked out by the agricultural colleges , and fixi g the price on a scientific basis . There is one other element entering into the causes on which the price to the con Trans ortation sumers depends , namely , p , and while municipal boards of health are looking after the sanitary conditions and prevention of adulteration , State and Federal authorities are stepping in as moderators or P roducers arbitrators to reconcile the interests of the , Railroad Com anies Distribu tors Con the p , the and the sumers . The next step —in the development will no doubt be towards full c o operation between producers and consumers and , to a large extent , elimination of “ ” the middlemen .

It should not be forgotten , however , that while the much abused middlemen in time past have been able to dictate terms and prices and have often abused the in privilege, they have at the same time used their ﬂuenc e AS and power to improve the milk supply . the supply of O il and gasoline has been perfected and cheap

- O mono ened by the all powerful Standard Oil C . as a p “ ” ol M y crushing all competition , so the ilk Trust has improved the distribution of milk and has built up the MILK S UPPLY A ND CRE AME RY PRODUCTS 4 1

magniﬁcent sanitary plants in which milk is handled , pasteurized , bottled and distributed in a way that might not have been possible without the monopoly . i It has served a good purpose , but has at the same t me acquired such power that ofﬁcial control h as become necessary for the protection of producers and con ma sumers alike , and the time y be near when these two classes will combine and take the matter into their own hands so that the distribution may be done at actual cost . Milk S tations are plants erected in dairy sections in the country either by the city milk Supply houses or

c o- n by operati g farmers , where the milk is delivered and handled so as to make it ready for shipment to and the city . As in the creamery the cheese factory , the milk is carefully examined and , if it is not sweet nd a pure , it is rej ected and sent back to the farm . Any impure ﬂavor remains in the cover for some time and is easily detected by smell ing of the cover as soon as it is removed from the can . A sample is taken and put aside for the Babcock test and perhaps another for the Fermentation test . ’ Each farmer s milk is weighed in the Weigh Can and

- run through a cheese cloth strainer . The further treat ment varies in different plants . The milk may simply be cooled by run ning it over a cold water or brin e cooler and placin g it in shipping cans in the refrigerator or in ice water until the milk- train comes along to pick up the cans . Or it may be clariﬁed by running it through a centrifugal machine , the same as a separator , in which , im however , cream and milk are not separated , but purities are thrown out by the centrifugal force and deposited on the wall of the bowl , and the puriﬁed

MILK S UPPLY A ND CREAME RY PRODUC TS 43 milk may then be pasteurized and bottled before being shipped to the city . Arrivin g in the city in iced cars the milk is taken to

Receiving milk at th e milk station

one of the elaborate plants in which it is pasteurized

and bottled , if that has not been done at the country

station . The machinery used in these plants is getting more and more perfect and expensive and leaves little to be desired as to sanitary requirements and economy P in handling . asteurizers , bottling machines , bottle 44 TH E S TORY OF MILK

. in washing machines , conveyors , etc , are wonders of nuit ge y , and one needs only to see one of these modern plants to understand that in a large city milk can only be handled to advantage in expensive establishments . S kim Milk is one of the cheapest of foods and under t proper regula ions its sale should not be prohibited . The reason why in times past skim milk has been d is l credited and excluded from sa e was that , as produced

by the old methods of raising the cream , before the a of dvent the separator , it was always more or less old and sour before it was available and certainly before

it could be distributed to consumers . Under such But conditions it was hardly ever ﬁt for human food . when produced by the separator and pasteurized and cooled immediately after —within a few hours after — it milking , which is entirely feasible is an excellent and nutritious food for adults and even for children R over two years of age . ipened with a pure culture of

lactic acid bacteria , it makes a healthful , refreshing

drink , like buttermilk . Only when it is allowed to sour S without proper care or control does kim milk , as whole milk does , become unﬁt for food or drink . On a cold winter morning when men are going to work (or per haps are looking for work which they cannot ﬁnd) , and children are on their way to school , Often underfed ,

- a street corner wagon or stand where boiling hot , fresh , sweet skim milk might be distributed at a cent or two a glass would be a blessing in any city .

CRE AM When new milk is left at rest the cream will rise to the top and after 1 2 to 24 hours a cream - line can

- be seen in the bottle . This cream line is sharper

46 TH E S TORY OF MILK and more easily seen in raw milk than in pasteurized milk and its absence is not always a sure S ign of B lack of richness or purity of the milk . y cooling the milk thoroughly so that it will keep , almost all the cream will be at the top in forty - eight hours and can ff f be skimmed o . The cream can be used for co fee or on cereals or fruits or puddings ; the skim milk left will still hold or more of butter—fat and can be used to drink or for cooking . —On Th e S eparator. the farm or in the creamery the cream is no longer raised by gravity , that is , by letting the milk “ set ” either in shallow pans on the kitchen in shelf or in deep cans ice water , but the fresh , warm milk is run through the separator in a continuous stream . It was noticed that the rising of the cream due to the difference in speciﬁc gravity beween the butter - fat and the milk—“ serum ” (the watery solution of the other c onstit u e nts) might be greatly hastened by subj ecting the milk to cen trifu al g force . This physical phe n omenon was taken advantage of in the ﬁrst conception O f the separator where it was shown that if a pail of milk was whirled around like a stone in a sling the heavier milk—serum would be Early conce ption of th e thrown towards the bottom of the separator pail with so much greater force than the lighter cream (butter - fat mixed with a small part of the serum) that the separation which would take 48 e hours in the milk at r st , could be accomplished in a MILK S UPPLY A N D CRE AME RY PRO DUCTS 47

few minutes when exposed to centrifugal force . From this early crude attempt the continuous bowl- separator was developed and still later a number of divisions in the bowl were designed which increased the capacity and efﬁciency of the machine wonderfully . The most successful separator was designed by Dr . Gustaf De Laval O f Sweden and the ma chines bearing his name are used all over the world where butter But is made . there are many G D L other excellent separators on Dr . ustav e aval of S e e e th w d n , inv ntor of e the market . separator be aring his name In the machine the milk is separated instantaneously by centrifugal force and runs out through two tubes , one for cream and the other for

skim milk . A small modern hand machine will take care of from 200

to lbs . of milk an hour , and power machines are built to sepa O r B rate lbs . more . y regu

lating the cream - outlet a heavier

or lighter cream can be produced . Suppose we are separating some

4 - milk containing % butter fat . If of this milk is separated out as cream and contains all the butter

fat , the cream will be eight times as Hand separator rich in butter- fat as the original

2 - milk ; 3 % of the cream will be butter fat . Such cream ”

3 2 . is called % cream If we take Mas cream , we get a 48 TH E S TORY O F MILK

a 1 6 . cream four times as rich as the milk , % cream

1 1 2 . SO out of 00 lbs . of milk we can take % lbs 1 1 6 . 3 2 25 . of % cream , lbs (4 ) of % cream , etc

Although the skim milk is really valuable as a food , it is worth but little commercially ; the cream contain

- ing the butter fat is the expensive part of the milk , and we must be prepared to pay for the cream all that the milk would have cost . B —F — “ P e rc entage of utte r at. The richness of cream or milk and their value depend upon the amount of

- butter fat in them . So cream or milk is often called 3 0% cream or cream ” or “ 4% milk ” accord ing as 3 0% or 20% or 4% of the ﬂuid is butter - fat 3 0% cream is quite rich ; ordinary market cream varies b e tween 1 8% and though it may fall below or it may be sold as a very expensive article as high as

Rich milk may contain more than 6% of butter - fat and skim milk less than of one per cent . The average for good whole milk is between 3 % and For a long time scientists and scientiﬁc dairymen were the only ones to speak of milk and cream in terms

- of percentage of butter fat . Now , however , people are beginning to realize how valuable a p art of the milk the butter - fat is and are paying more attention to the actual percentage of butter - fat in the cream or milk they use . So it is no longer unusual to see a dairyman advertise cream of a certain percentage or to hear a housewife ask for it spe—cifically . S tand ard izing Cre am For ice cream or for prepar d ing modified milk for babies , it is often esirable to d ilute rich cream to a certain lower standard . The following simple steps can be taken to find out how much milk to add for diluting % MILK S UPPLY A ND CRE AM E RY PRODUCTS 49 — — - of 1 . From the test fat percentage the rich cream subtract the test desired . 2 . From the test desired subtract the test of the milk used for diluting . d f 3 . Divide the first i ference by the second , and the result will be the number of pints (or pounds) of milk to be added for each pint (or pound) of the rich cream . 3 0 For instance , you may want to thin some % cream 1 to 0% for making ice cream . The milk to be added % is skim milk . Then 1 1 2 0 0 0. . 3 2 1 1 0 0 0. . 2 1 2 0 0 . 3 . divided by So for each pint of rich 2 cream you may add pints of skim milk . Or you may wish to thin the 3 0% cream with whole

4 - % milk , which has % butter fat . Again 1 1 2 . 3 0 0 0. 2 1 4 . 0 6 . 20 3 3 3 . divided by So you may add pints of the whole milk to each pint of the 3 0% cream and 1 0 still have a % cream . Paste uriz e d Cre am does not look as rich as raw cream , and fresh , sweet cream appears to be thinner 24 than when it is hours old and slightly ripened . So it is well , when buying cream , not to j udge by appear n a c es . Demand of the milkman that he furnish you cream of a certain percentage of butter- fat and see to it that you get what you pay for . If you have no Babcock tester the milk inspector will test the cream for you . — Wh i e d Cre am pp For whipping , cream must be 24 fairly rich , from % to and it must be cold .

Fresh , sweet cream does not whip as readily as that TH E S TORY O F MILK

1 2 24 which has been kept for or hours in ice water .

There is no other secret connected with the process .

Use a rich cream , suitably cooled and aged , and with

a good beater there can be no trouble in getting a ﬁne , f sti f whipped cream . If the cream is too thin or too f warm it may not become sti f . Sometimes, when it

is beaten too long , it turns into butter and buttermilk .

I e me F m th e e th e nstallation in a Danish cr a ry . ro s parator at right th e cre am runs through th e continuous paste urize r which forces it up

e th e e e e h m- h ov r cool r w—h nc it runs into t e cre a vat at t e l eft . (From Boggild Maelkerib ruget i Danmark) — Emul siﬁ e d Cre am One of the recent additions to

the already elaborate machinery used in the creamery , Emu lsi the milk supply or the ice cream business , is the

er . i ﬁ To be sure , emulsiﬁers were used th rty to forty years ago to mix animal and vegetable fats—Oleo i — margarine oil , lard and cottonseed O l into skim milk “ C ” B for Filled heese or for utterine , but lately they B forc are serving new purposes in the milk industry . y MILK S UPPLY A ND CRE AME RY PRODUCTS 5 1

ing melted butter- fat or oil mixed with water or skim milk th rough exceedingly small apertures under high r pressu e , or otherwise breaking up the mixture , an emulsion can be formed in which the fat globules are a much finer even th n those in natural milk or cream , nd a separation can be prevented . The force used in u these emulsifiers may be produced by powerful p mps , or a steam j et , or centrifugal force under high speed ; whichever system is used the machines answer the same r pu pose , to produce a permanent emulsion in which the O il or fat will stay in suspension even after cooling . In some milk supply plants and ice cream factories all the cream is emulsified and the system has especially been applied since the advent of the milk powder . It is now a not infrequent practice to run the new milk thr ough n the separator , make sweet , u salted butter from the S cream , and milk powder from the kim milk , and to ship or store these products separately where or until cream is wanted and then bring them together again by runn ing them through the emulsifier with a suitable amount of water . At first thought this process would But seem impractical and uneconomical . it has proven good busin ess because in many cases and places skim milk powder and butter keep better separately or can be shipped at long distan ce to better advantage than new milk or cream or condensed milk . In ice cream factories business may be dull in cold weather and i cream is perhaps not prov ded and not available , when suddenly a hot spell brings orders for large quantities . With a stock of skim milk powder and butter on hand in the refrigerator , and an emulsifier to mix these products , cream can be produced on short notice and there will be no danger of shortage . 52 TH E S TORY OF MILK

I CE CREAM

Ice cream has fast become the national dessert served

on all festive occasions , winter and summer . Originally it meant a frozen mixture of sweetened and ﬂavored milk and cream but the name has long been applied to , % all kinds of frozen delicacies in which cream enters as

a constituent . Not even there has the line been drawn , “ ” - but gums , gelatine , corn starch , eggs and other ﬁllers have been substituted or added to thicken the mixtures “ ” “ ” m re and give body to crea s , which have but little ’ lation to the genuine emulsion of butter - fat from cow s

milk . Standardization has been attempted by National and State food authorities with varying success of en or m n n f c e e t. While the application of the ame to a great variety of frozen desserts has no doubt become legiti mate by l ong usage it may properly be demanded that as an article of mer “ ” c h andise ice cream shall contain at least 8% to 1 2% butter fat and that no in gre d ients dangerous to health enter into

its manufacture . — F r e e z e r s T h e freezing is usually done by contact of the material with m H and free zer etal cooled on the o t h e r s i d e b y a freezing mixture of salt and i ce which produces temperatures far below the freezing point of water

54 TH E S TORY OF MILK

It h as been attempted to make the brine freezers n inu ous a m co t , the cre m ixture being fed into the ma chine at one end and disch arged frozen at the other . h so in this sy stem as not far been successful , and

Power brine freez er termittent c r b atch freezers are most practical yet both for hand and for power . R ich material , frozen in a good machine , whether 50 intermittent or continuous , will expand from % to and the original material should not ﬁll the

- freezer can more than half full . The manufacture of ice cream has been the subj ect of study and experiments for years in the Dairy De artment C p of the Agricultural ollege at Ames , Iowa , P M M r where rofessor . o tensen has worked out a com prehensive classiﬁcation from which any manufacturer MILK S UPPLY AND CRE AME RY PRODUCTS 55

may readily choose his formulas , modifying them to suit his local conditions and special problems . The outline kindly furnished the author by Professor Mor

I c e cre am factory t onsen is so interesting and instructive as to be well worth copying substantially in full , leaving out the “ Ices in which no milk or cream is used and which ne are therefore t of speci—al interest in connection with the purpose of this book the use of more and better milk . 56 TH E S TORY OF MILK

CLAS S IFICATION ADOPTE D A T IOWA E X PE RIME NT% S TATI ON

Considering the work of former writers as well as c l iﬁ names used by business men , the following ass ca tion was worked out by the station %

P I c e C e m . I . lain r a s

Nut I c e C e m . II . r a s F I c e m t e C . III . rui r a s B e I c e C e m . IV . isqu r a s

P . V . arfaits

M e . VI . ouss s

P . VII . uddings A faits u . VIII . X La t s I . c o .

E xplanation and F ormu las

P lai n I ce ream I . C is a frozen product made from cream and sugar with or without a natural ﬂavoring . Formulas are given for making ten gallons of ﬁnished ice cream .

Vanila I ce Cream% 5 gallons 25% cre am

8 lbs . sugar 4 oz . vanilla e xtract

Chocolate I ce Cream% 5 gallons cream

1 0 lbs . sugar I e V; lbs . bitt r chocolate 4 oz . vanilla e xtract

Maple I ce Cream% 5 gallons 25% cre am

6 lbs . cane sugar 2 lbs . mapl e sugar 2 oz . carame l

4 oz . vanilla e xtract MILK S UPPLY AN D CRE AME RY PRODUCTS 57

Caramel I ce Cream% 5 gallons 25% cre am

8 lbs . sugar

1 2 oz . caramel 4 l e oz . vani la xtract

Coﬁ ee I Ce Cream% 5 gallons 25% cre am e 8 lbs . can sugar a t 1 ff Extr c from lb . co ee

MintI ce Cream% 5 gallons 25% cre am e 8 lbs . can sugar 1 e e e e Me pt . conc ntrat d Cr m nth e syrup F r e ew d ops gr en coloring .

Nu t I ce Cream II . is a frozen product made

- cream and sugar and sound non rancid nuts .

Walnut I ce Cream% 5 gallons 25% cre am e 8 lbs . can sugar 4 e oz . vanilla xtract 4 lbs . of walnut me ats .

According to this general formula the following nut ice creams may be prepared by substituting different kinds of nut meats %

Chestnut I ce Cream Filbert I ce Cream Hazelnut I ce Cream Pecan I ce Cream P eanut I ce Cream Almond I ce Cream stachio I ce C am Pi re .

At times pistachio ice cream is made from oil of pis h i tac o . instead of from the nuts If thus prepared , it will come under the head of plain ice cream . 58 TH E S TO RY O F M ILK

F ruit I ce Cream III . is a frozen product made

cream , sugar and sound , clean , mature fruits .

S trawberry I ce Cream% 5 gallons 25% cre am a 8 lbs . sug r e t e e gallon crush d s rawb rri s .

Employing the same formula the following creams may be made by merely substituting other fruits and berries for the strawberries . The amount of sugar may be varied according to the acidity of the fruit .

Pineapple I ce Cream Raspberry I ce Cream Cherry I ce Cream P each I ce Cream Apricot I ce Cream Currant I ce Cream Grape I ce Cream C anbe I ce C eam r rry r .

Preparation of lemon and orange ice creams cannot be included und e r this gene ral rule . These creams may be prepared as follows %

Lemon I ce Cream% 5 gallons 25% cre am 1 0 lbs . sugar em e 2 pts . l on juic e 1 pt . orang juice

Orange I ce Cream% 5 gallons 25% cream 1 0 lbs . sugar 2 e qts . orang juic e em e pt . l on juic .

I B is u e I ce Cream V . q a frozen product made from u d cream , s gar and bread pro ucts , marshmallows or MILK S U PPLY A N D CRE AME RY PRODUCTS 59

other confections , with without other natural

ﬂavoring .

Macaroon I ce Cream% 5 gallons 25% cre am

8 lbs . sugar 4 e t oz . vanilla xtrac u m 5 lbs . gro nd acaroons .

From this formula we can make %

Gr ape NutI ce Cream Nabisco I ce Cream S ponge Cake I ce Cream a shmall c C eam M r ow I c r .

P ar ait V . f is a frozen product made from cream , sugar and egg yolks with or without nuts or fruits and other natural ﬂavoring .

Walnut Parfait% 4 gallons 3 0% cream Yolks of 1 0 doz en e ggs 1 4 a lbs . sug r 4 oz . vanilla extract 4 n t m lbs . wal u eats .

From this formula substituting meats can make %

FilbertP arfait Almond P arfait P eanutParfait HazelnutPa ait tc e . rf ,

By substitutin g the same proportion of fruits as are u sed for fruit ice cream , for the vanilla extract and nut e u m ats , fr it parfaits such as strawberry , raspberry and nd c herry parfaits a others may be prepared . 60 TH E S TORY OF MI LK

4 gallons 3 0% cre am Yolks of 1 0 doz e n e ggs

1 4 lbs . sugar f Extract from 1 lb . co fee

Maple Parfait% 4 gallons 3 0% cre am Yolks of 1 0 doz e n eggs m e 4 lbs . apl sugar e 1 0 lbs . can sugar a ame a te 2 oz . c r l p s

Tutti- Frutti% 4 gallons 3 0% cre am Yolks of 1 0 doz e n eggs 4 e 1 lbs . can sugar e t 4 oz . vanilla xtrac e e e 3 lbs . candi d ch rri s e e 3 lbs . candi d assort d

e e . 3 lbs . pin appl

M ou sse VI . is a frozen whipped cream which sugar and natural ﬂavoring have been added .

Cranberry Mousse% 2 gallons 3 0% cre am 4 e lbs . can sugar 1 e q t. cranb rry j uic e 1 m e e . 4 pt . l on juic

From the same formula combinations may be made with various other fruit juices and natural ﬂavors , such f as co fee , vanilla , maple , caramel , pistachio , etc . S u ltana roll , as indicated by the name , is made in a round mold . The center of the mold is ﬁlled with

- tutti frutti , and the outside with pistachio mousse . P uddin VII . g is a product made from cream or milk , with sugar , eggs , nuts and fruits , highly ﬂavored .

62 TH E S TORY OF MILK

served fruits and berries and combined with different

creams . X Lacto m I . is a product manufactured from skim ed

or whole sour milk , eggs and sugar , with or without

natural ﬂavoring . lac tos B 1 40 Formulas for may be found in ulletin No .

published by the Ames Station .

As an example , the following mixture will make 5 gallons of

Cherry Lacto% 3 gallons lacto milk 9 pounds sugar 1 2 eggs 1 quart of che rry juice or conce ntrated ch erry syrup 1 % pints lemon juice

Lacto Milk is th e same as describe d under Commercial m ” “ T B t e M e 8 1 82 . u t r ilk and hick ilk , pag s and Th i h m Th r e sugar s first dissolved in t e lacto ilk . e eggs a e the n e Th e nd are ke n prepar d . e whit s a yolks pt i separate containe rs e e i e e e B h and e ach lot is b at n w th an gg b at r . oth t e yolks and white s are th e n adde d to th e milk “ Th e mixture is thoroughly n Th e stirred and straine d through a fi e wire gauz e . fruit juice s r Th e ee e t t a e add ed last . fr z r is now run until it urns wi h difficulty h e em e Th e em e h wh en t e paddl is r ov d . e brin is r ov d and t e free z er repacked with ice and salt and left for an hour before th e conte nts re e a serv d . O e M P e e M s R e G e L rang , int , in appl , ara chino , aspb rry or rap acto ma b e e h y pr pared by substituting any of these flavors for t e Cherry .

X I ces . are frozen products made from water or W sweet skimmed or whole milk , and sugar , ith or with

out eggs , fruit juices or other natural ﬂavoring . sherbets Ices may be for convenience divided into , ‘ milk h rbets ra es unch ou les s e es s . , f pp , p and ﬁ Milk S herbet is an ice made from sweet skimmed or MILK S UPPLY A ND CRE AME RY PRODUCTS 63

ﬂ av or whole milk with egg albumen , sugar and natural ing , frozen to the consistency of ice cream .

Pineapple Milk S herbet% 6 gallons milk

20 lbs . sugar Whites of 2 doz en e ggs 1 gallon pine appl e pulp

1 t. em e q l on j uic .

Milk sherbets Of various ﬂavors may be prepared according to above formula by substituting other i ﬂavor ngs . The formulas presented above have been given mainly for the purpose of making clear the difference between the various groups . Numerous other formulas may be prepared on the same general outline .

P M ’ rof . ortensen s formulas are mostly made out for ten gallons of ice cream . It is hardly necessary to call attention to the fact that they can easily be adapted to any smaller quantities by reducing each of the ingre d i nts % e . alike For instance , to make 1 allon o Plain Vanilla I ce Cream g f , divide the figures given above by 1 0 and use %

2 quarts 25% cream

lbs . sugar ni e t oz . va lla x ract .

To make % 1 uart o S traw berr I ce Cream 40 % q f y , divide by and use

1 pint 25% cream a 3 oz . sug r

Crushed strawbe rri e s to taste . TH E S TORY O F MILK

It will be noticed that in the formulas worked out a — at Ames as above , very rich cre m is used , with a fat contents of 25% or —which makes exceedingly

P e M e e e th e th e e rof ssor ort ns n , b hind vat at l ft , giving a le sson making of ic e cre am at Ame s

rich ice creams and great expansion in freezing . The ordinary ice cream maker will usually employ cheaper i mater al, mixing some milk in the cream and standard

izing the material to suit his local trade . Also most housekeepers making ice cream at home will ﬁnd it convenient and economical to use a mixture of milk MILK S UPPLY AN D CRE AME RY PRODUCTS 65 and cream and in doing so one must not expect so much expansion . In many places outside of dairy sections cream is scarce and c ond ensed milk is substituted to a large

L - extent . ately milk powder has come into use and

Emulsi ed Cream - ﬁ has become popular . Skim milk powder and unsalted butter may be kept in stock and E mu lsi er be available at any time , and by means of an ﬁ they are united again into a product identical with the milk or cream from which they were originally sep r t d a a e . — Junk e t Ic e Cre am By setting a mixture of milk and cream with a solution of Junket Tablets and allow o ing it t j elly before freezing , the body of the cream may be improved so that a material of comparatively

- w low fat percentage ill make a very good ice cream , rich enough for most people and especially well suited

- for invalids and children . Ice cold milk or cream is rather hard to digest for a weak or delicate stomach because the action of th e rennet in the digestive j uice

- is imperfect and slow except at blood temperature . In C Junket Ice ream , however , such action takes place before it is eaten and the digestive ferment of the t stomach is relieved of that function . For tha reason Junket Ice Cream is considered healthier than the ordinary frozen products and may be indulged in freely b y children and invalids . The following are examples of tested Junket Ice Creams % Vanilla I ce Cream

et t e ate e t Dissolve tw o Junke t Tabl s in a abl spoonful of cold w r , h a tw o quarts of milk and one pint of cream luke - warm in which h as b een dissolve d one cup of sugar and two t e aspoonfuls of vanilla 66 TH E S TO RY OF MILK

t e ad d th e e unke Ta et t r u k for one ﬂavor, h n dissolv d J t bl , s i q ic ly ice ea can le ta i tu e ten half minute and pour into cr m , t s nd und s rb d n a d ee e set. P k t ice a d n or ﬁftee n minute s or until ac wi h salt fr z .

Pistachio I ce Cream

’ Exc erpt from an article by Alice Bradley in Woman s Home ” Companion

ea the e a Itma This is th e be st ice cr m for mon y th t w e know . y ‘ e e th e ee e e th e m r ke t th e b e mad r ady for fr z r arly in o ning , and p in I t ice box until it is conve nient to free z e it. t is q uite possible o utiliz e cre am that is not pe rfe ctly fresh . t th e th e ee e one t m k ne f ea Pu in can of fr z r pin of il , o half cup o h vy

e m one - one te one - cr a , third cup sugar , aspoonful vanilla , half m e t few a t and e eta te aspoon of al ond xtrac , a grains of s l , v g ble Set th e color paste to make a delicate gree n color . e fr e ze r in a pan th m t e ke a m a n te . e d d o e ket of hot wa r As soon as ix ur is lu w r , Jun n ix t Tablet dissolve d in o e table spoon cold wate r . M horoughly h c let t fi rm . Put t e i e t e to eez e and stand un il in box un il r ady fr , t e th e ee e tub a t th e k ut t e a h n put can in fr z r , dj us cran , p in hr e sm ll me asure s of ice that h as bee n crushe d in a he av y b ag or shave d fi ne an ice h e e e e t ne me re k with s av r , cov r this v nly wi h o asu of roc t ee me e m e ic e ne let fiv e sal , add thr asur s or of and o of salt , stand m e e t th e k th e ee e a t ten m e inut s and th n urn cran of fr z r for bou inut s , e a b e e tt e ra t e th tur n wh n it m y turn d a li l more pidly . Con inu e ni g until th e mixture is firm. Rem e th e e k ice eam t th e ov dash r , pac cr solidly in o can , surround t me e ic e to one e e r wi h four asur s of of salt , cov r with h avy bu lap e e ee a ee e B bag or n wspap r and k p in cold place until n d d . e sure th e e th e e th e ee e tub not e so t a op ning in sid of fr z r is plugg d up , h t any surplus of salt wat e r will drain off inste ad of getting into th e a b e e e free z e r . It m y n c ssary to repack th e free z e r if th e cream is e e a h Th e e m a b e froz n v ry long in dvanc e of t e me al . cr a m y put m set th e fi reless ke ett e n e it ice into a old , in coo r k l , surrou d d w h e th e fi reless e P d a . ee e e cut and salt and l ft in cook r all y l p ach s , in k t T e e set th i h . thin slic s , sprin l with sugar and in e ce box o c ill o e e e ea e e e e t e r t ice ream s rv , plac p ch s in chill d d ss r glass s , cove wi h c and a e garnish e ach with a c ndi d cherry . MILK S UPPLY A ND CRE AME RY PRODUCTS 6 7

In the following recipes the cream is added after the j unket prepared from mixtures of milk , sugar and

ﬂavors has been partly frozen , a method which is preferred by many .

Coﬁee I ce Cream

M ke a e fee to tw o rt arm a cup of v ry strong cof , add it qua s of w l one e en e e in e mi k in which cup of sugar has b dissolv d , tast ord r to see th e t e ee e u k e T et if ﬂavor is s rong nough , add thr dissolv d J n t abl s , s k one - mi e ice e m and let tir quic ly for half nut , pour into cr a can Pa k w stand undisturbe d ten or ﬁftee n minut es or until set. c ith ice and salt ; free z e to a thick mush b efore adding one pin t of

eam t e t e e . cr , h n con inu fr e zing

S immons College P each I ce Cream

Heat tw o quarts of milk lukewarm in which h as bee n dis e ne e l solv d o cup of sugar and two t aspoonfuls of vanil a ﬂavor , add tw o e u k e T et one - m e dissolv d J n t abl s , stir quickly for half inut and ic e e m let e ten ee mi e pour into cr a can , stand undisturb d or ﬁft n nut s P ic e ee e m s e or until set. ack with and salt ; fr z to a thick u h b fore ne t e m e ee e e e e e adding o pin of cr a and crush d and sw t n d p ach s , th n a th a a continue free zing . S ve e needed mount of pe ches to serve on ic top of e cream.

Frozen pudding , strawberries , bananas , or pineapple, may be added in this way when making any Junk et

Ice Cream .

Orange S herbet

He at two quarts of milk luk ewarm in which h as bee n dissolved e e e Ta e two cups of sugar , th n add two dissolv d Junk t bl ts , stir ui k m e and r ee e let ten q c ly for a inut pou into fr z r can , it stand or ﬁfteen minutes be fore packing with ice and salt ; freeze to a thick m s e e e e t u h , th n add j uic and grat d rind of six orang s and con inue to freeze . 68 TH E S TORY OF MILK

Raspb e rry Sh e rb e t may be made in the same way by substituting for the j uice and rind of oranges one quart and of crushed sweetened raspberries , and Pin e appl e Sh e rb e t by substituting two cups of grated and sweetened pineapple .

Custard I ce Cream

When cream is scarce many housekee pers substitute a mixture m Th e t e e of eggs and ilk . following is a good s andard r cip w hich can b e vari ed by using diffe re nt fruits and ﬂ avors th e same as in h m any of t e above co binations .

1 quart milk 2% cups sugar 4 e ggs 1 quart cre am (or rich milk) 2 teaspoons vanilla (more if d esire d)

S m u t e th e - e k e cald ilk , add s gar , h n add w ll be aten ggs . Coo un til r B t k em e m ﬁ e . e e n t t hic , r ov fro and cool car ful o o cook too long

r T en add th e a r e . or it will cu dle . h e cr am and vanilla nd f e ze

70 TH E S TORY OF MILK

. largely populated by Scandinavian immigrants many —a O f whom were skilled butter m kers , educated in the E old countries . ven up to this day it is noticeable that the list of prize winning b uttermakers at the National Dairy Shows and other exhibitions is largely made up M of Scandinavian names . In innesota , for instance , as fine butter is no—w made as anywhere in the world . In Of Dairy Butter . the early days the industry butter was made at home on the farm . The milk was —in n set in S hallow vessels , the Holstei and Danish dairies in wooden tubs 24 inches in diameter placed on the stone or concrete floor in the milk - vault a cool — , or cellar partly underground , in tin pans on the 3 6 48 pantry shelf . After to hours the cream was off skimmed with a flat scoop , often both cream and skim milk being sour . 1 860 About the deep tin can was introduced , set in cold running water or , where ice was available , in ice water . This was a great improvement over the shallow setting system . It was now possible to raise most of the cream in 24 hours leaving not to exceed

- butter fat in the skim milk , and to have both cream and skim milk sweet . —B Centrifugal Creaming . ut the climax of perfection was not reached until the separator (see under Cream) was inv ented about 1 879 and cream was raised in n n l sta ta e ous y . For a long time it was the Obj ect of the manufacturers to produce p ow er sep arators of larger and larger capacity , handling from to lbs . of milk an hour .

Co- O e rati e Cre ame rie s p v were established , taking in B . ut lbs of milk and more a day . in thinly settled sections where the roads were poor it was ex MILK S UPPLY AND CRE AME RY PRODUCTS 7 1 pensive to haul the milk a long distance to the creamery hand se arators and p were introduced , each farmer skim ming his own milk fresh from the cows and delivering the cream , only , to the creamery . This system has the advantage of leaving the skim milk on the farm in the very best condition for the calves and hogs and n in of savi g time and expenses transportation . It has the disadvantage that many farmers can hardly be expected to handle all of these separators as skilfully and cleanly as the creamery expert can run his one or n m few machi es , and consequently that the skim ing is more or less imp erfe c tﬁ more butter - fat being left in the skim milk and more impurities in the cream than

- But in d in the whole milk creamery . practice the a vantages of the hand separator and cream - gathering system seem to be greater than the disadvantages and it is rapidly taking the place of the whole - milk cream eries . — Ripe ning th e Cre am Butter may be made by churning whole milk , but usually it is made from cream that has been “ ripened ” or soured by standing for 1 0 6 ° 7 ° about hours at a temperature of from 5 to 5 F . Modern b uttermakers often pasteurize the cream and “ ” B then add a starter to sour it . y preparing the starter with a pure culture O f lactic acid bacteria one can get the desired acidity and aroma , and ex elude undesirable ﬂavors (as to Pure Cultures and “ ” “ B C mm But Starters , see under acteria and o ercial

The process of ripening requires considerable skill and attention and is one of the most delicate functions the buttermaker is called upon to perform . In the

ﬁrst place the cream must be faultless , sweet and pure 72 TH E S TORY OF MILK

m before it is set to ripen , so the butter aker will have

full control of the fermentation . For , if it is already S turned or partly fermented , no kill will avail to bring But it back to perfection . with a ﬁrst class , pure cream the operator has it in his power to turn out perfect

Sanitary C re am Rip ene r showing coil swung up into cl eaning position

butter . In the big western creameries cream is often collected from farms at a distance of a hundred miles or more and in warm weather such cream is likely to arrive at the central plant in more or less advanced f centraliz ers condition . It is therefore di ficult for the “ to make really first class butter while the whole - milk creamery ” as well as the farmer handling his own milk are in position to control the ripening from — the beginning starting with pure material and being MILK S UPPLY A N D CRE AME RY PRODUCTS 73 able to develop the desired flavor and acidity in the cream . After adding the starter to the cream it must be kept at a uniform temperature of 65 to 75 ° during the ripen ing process and it must be watched carefully and oc casionall y stirred gently until the consistency , aroma and acidity are as desired . Then it should be cooled quickly to stop further fermentation and if it is not to be churned at once it should be kept cold until churning i time . Usually it is safer to set the cream in the morn ng and hasten the ripening so it will be completed in the evening rather than to leave it overnight warm . For , if it is finished in the evening , the cream may be cooled and placed in ice water overnight and one is sure to have it in good condition for churning in the morning . But it is quite feasible for the experienced operator to regulate the pro cess so the cream will not be fully ripened in the mornin g until he is on hand to watch it and see that the process does not go too far . Taste acid and smell will tell when it is just right , and the test may also be applied to determine when to stop the fermentation . An acidity of . 5% is usually desired .

When the condition is right , chill the cream , cooling it — ° to below 50° preferably down towards 40 —and leave it in ice water or in the refrigerator until churning time ; then temper it to the proper temperature for churning . Even if it is to be churned soon after the ripening is completed it is best to chill it and then raise the temperature to the point wanted for churning . This gives a better “ grain ” and “ body to the butter than if the ripened cream is just cooled to the churning l temperature , and is especially desirab e when the cream has been pasteurized . 74 TH E S TORY OF MILK — Coloring When the cream is ready it is poured into

the churn and a little butter color is added . Some

B ranch of th e Annatto tre e

people prefer butter very light or even uncolored , but usually 1 to 2 teaspoonfuls of a standard butter color 1 0 to gallons of cream will be found right , varying

“ ” B utter Color is made of th e coloring matte r of Annatto dissolve d Th B O relana in a re ﬁne d vegetable (salad) oil . e Annatto tree ( ixa ) grows in th e tropics and th e se e d which has a thin coating of this be auti ul m e me m m th e e I I m f coloring att r co s ostly fro W st ndian slands , Ja aica , I m b Porto Rico and Guadeloupe . t is pe rfe ctly har le ss and is used y th e native s to ﬂavor and color soup and othe r foods much as w e use

tomatoes . MILK S UPPLY A ND CRE AME RY PRODUCTS 75 according to the season and the breed of cows furnish

- ing the milk . The butter fat in Guernsey and Jersey mil k is naturally highly colored , while that in Holstein Wh milk is comparatively white . en the cows are on fresh pasture in the early summer the butter - fat is

Adding th e butter color

more highly colored than when they are on dry food . The amoun t of coloring to be added to the cream is regulated to overcome such variations and make the u butter of uniform color all the year ro nd . — Ch urning . Hundreds of varieties of churns have been constructed from time to time ; years ago Pliny described the old dash churn much the same as still occasionally used on the farm , and the principle 76 TH E S TORY OF MILK

Th e Involved in the process has not been changed . obj ect is to make the fat globules conglomerate into grains ' th at can be collected and leave as little butter fat as possible in the buttermilk . The best temperature for churning varies from 48 ° to 56 ° and must be determined by local conditions and

experience . To allow plenty of room for cream

Old Arabian churn made out of Ancient churn Danish churn th e skin of a goat

shake about , the churn should not be much more than W in half full . hen the globules of fat suspended the milk stick together and form granules as large as good sized pin - heads it is time to stop the churn and drain h “ ” off the buttermilk . If t e butter fails to come in half an hour or forty minutes it may be because the cream in the churn is too warm or too cold . A little cold or warm water , as the case may be, can be added as a simple remedy . Toward the end of the process care must be taken that the churn is stopped at the right moment , when

TH E S TORY O F MILK

the butter will separate clear from the buttermilk . After the buttermilk is drawn off pure cold water is poured into the churn and the butter granules are off rinsed in it . This water again is drawn and fresh cold water put in . — W orking th e Butte r. The butter can now be taken

B utte r worke r

S - out with a ieve and worked on the butter worker , or “ W ” it may be worked in the churn . orking the butter consists in squeezing out the buttermilk and kneading “ ” the butter into a smooth but not greasy mass . If it is too warm and if it is worked too much , with a sliding motion instead of just pressing , the butter is apt to become greasy . If there seems to be any danger of greasiness , it is better to stop and put the butter in a cool place for a few hours to recover its elasticity .

The working can then be ﬁnished safely . MILK S UPPLY A N D CRE AME RY PRODUCTS 79 — S al ting During this working process salt is added and thoroughly distributed and worked in . About half an oun ce of salt is used fo—r a pound of butter . C om osition of Bu ter. p t When ﬁnished , the butter 1 2 1 5 ought not to contain more than % to % of water ,

- and there should be at least 80% of butter fat . If all the butter - fat originally in the milk could be taken out 1 4 00 . in the butter , lbs of % milk should yield

2 - Bu t 8 . lbs . ) of butter with % butter fat a little in rm is lost the skim milk and more in the butte ilk , 4 which usually contains fat , so that about % 1 00 lbs . is all the butter that can be expected from lbs . of milk .

Ove rrun . Creamery men are much interested in the Overrun which means the in crease from the churn over the amount of fat in the milk . For instance , if a

1 - quantity of milk containing 00 lbs . butter fat as show n B 1 1 4 by the abcock Test produces lbs . of ﬁnished butter , the overrun is The buttermaker who gets the largest overrun by reducin g the loss of butter u fat in the skim milk and the buttermilk to a minim m , keeping the perce ntage of water in the butter just n below and yet produci g high scoring butter , is considered m—ost efﬁcient . Packin . F g or the market , butter is packed in tubs

- or stone jars . Or it is molded in neat one pound bricks and wrapped in parchment paper . “ —4 Swe e t Butter . Real sweet butter is churned from But fresh , sweet , unsoured cream . usually the name is given to the u nsalted and uncolored butter that many people relish . Without the salt it does not keep as well as ordinary butter , and must be eaten quite

- fresh . Well made salted butter will keep for months 80 TH E S TORY O F MILK

in with ordinary care , and cold storage it may be kept B ut a year . when it comes out of cold storage it must

be used within a few weeks , for butter, like other cold

storage foods , will soon spoil and become rancid when it is exposed to a higher temperature for any length of time . — R Bu e r B e n ovate d tt . utter that has become O ld and “ rancid can be renovate—d The butter is melted and the bu—tter - oil washed aerated in the renovating ﬁne - ﬂav ored plants , and then churned with sour skim

milk . From the sour skim milk it gets back its old

butter ﬂavor . The granular physical consistency of fresh butter is gained by pouring the emulsiﬁed mixture B over cracked ice or into ice water . y the time the ” excess of bu ttermilk has been removed by working ,

and salt has been mixed in, the renovated butter may

be almost as goo d as fresh creamery butter . O l e omargarine or Butte rin—e is made in much the same way . A mixture of beef fat (the soft part of beef tallow) and lard and cottonseed oil is churned with sour milk and worked and granulated like renovated th e butter . For better grades , some of the ﬁnest t creamery butter is mixed with it , so hat the mixture

can hardly be distinguished from real butter .

- Nu - u e r Co o b utte r t b t . c , t , etc , in great variety , are now

also on the market as substitutes for butter , all pre in pared a similar way , but lacking the vital unknown element that makes genuine butter so superior - to

substitutes .

BUTTE RMILK

If the cream has been carefully ripened , with or

without a pure culture starter , and it has shown the

82 TH E S TORY OF MILK

ripened and churned , the product will be identically the same as—natural buttermilk from ripened cream . Ripe nin g For best result the milk should be pas t uriz e d e , not necessarily as thoroughly as for starters , but sufficiently so as to destroy all obnoxious bacteria and give those introduced through a pure culture B starter a chance to grow . uttermilk may , however , also be made from good , clean , unpasteurized milk of good flavor . Whether pasteurized or not the milk is set to ripen with from 5 to 1 0% starter at a temperature of from 65 to The preparation of starters is de scribed under “ B acteria ” and the ripening of the milk for “ buttermilk ” is essentially the same process (see Ri enin W also under p g of crea—m for butter) . hen rip ened to the desired acidity say . 5% to . 6% by the — , acid test , stop further fermentation by thorough cooling . — Bre akin u th e Curd . g p After cooling , the ripened milk may be broken up fine and if vigorously shaken “ ” w or churned it ill remain smooth and creamy . Other i wise t may separate into curd and whey . If churned ab long enough for the butter to form , it becomes B solutel . ut y identical with real buttermilk , for all practical purposes , a vigorous shaking for a few minutes is enough . Th i k M ilk M c . Thick ilk as eaten in Scan d in i m av a is made in the sam—e way as com ercia—l butter milk , except that the milk rich whole milk is set to i ripen in the bowl in wh ch it is to be served . Instead n of bei g churned or stirred , it is left thick , to be served m as a pudding , like Junket ade from sweet milk . The O f rich layer cream that forms on top is excellent . “ Thick Milk ” is eaten plain with the oatmeal for MILK S UPPLY AN D CRE AME RY PRODUCTS 83

breakfast , or as a dessert with grated stale bread and sugar spread over it . The uses of buttermilk in makin g pancakes and for many other culinary purposes are mentioned in the “ M C ” chapter on ilk ookery . Yogh ourt or B ul garian S our Milk is prepared with a culture of bacteria originally found in Bulgaria where M f etchniko f , the late director of P P the asteur Institute of aris , found people living to exceptional old age which he ascribed to the fact that their principal diet is sour milk of very high acidity . The theory is that a luxurious n growth of lactic acid bacilli , acti g as a germicide , destroys other fer in mentations the lower intestines .

r E ie N e The bacilli active in Yoghourt re . l l tcll l ll ‘ 0g ml” 0 i Tll k r 3 e quire a somewhat higher tempera . f Pmlongamon Of w e ture for their best growth than the lactic acid bacilli predominant in sour cream for the

ﬁnest butter , a fact which must be taken into con n sideration in prepari g the various products .

F E RME N TE D MILK

K Keﬁr In the preparation of oumis , and other fer mented Yeast im milks of the same class , plays an

- portant part , changing some of the milk sugar into the alcohol which is found in these preparations in quan tities up to ’ Koumis was ﬁrst made from mare s milk by the Tar ’ tars , but is now prepared in this country from cow s u n milk by the addition of s gar and yeast . As carbo ic B Vasilka 1 26 e h er T 1 1 B aba , y ars old and son , udor, 0 ; ulgarian pe asants whose principal food h as been sour milk all their lives

C HAPTER III

CHE E S E

Most of the following pages on Cheese were published in 1 9 1 8 as a separate pamphlet to meet an urgent d e

S e m ee e th e U e ee e M tud nts aking ch s in niv rsity ch s factory, adison , Wis . mand for brief directions along this line during the C a Food onserv tion campaign . The copy has , how ever , been revised and new material has been added 86 CHE E S E 87 with the V iew of makin g this chapter more useful to those who desire to study in detail the manufacture E of various fancy foreign types of cheese such as dam , B R Swiss , rick , oquefort , etc . , which are now made in un n this co try in constantly increasi g quantities . For more complete directions in cheese making “ students are referred to A B C in Cheese Makin g M onrad by J . H . , and other technical works . C f heese of a thousand di ferent kinds is made , varying in properties and appearance from the solid , yet mellow

‘ C - and agreeable heddar cheese to the semi soft , mal L Odorous imburger, the delicious , soft Neufchatel and C th M s os ream cheese or e sweet e t of Norway . In , y — India Cheese was made centuries ago ; to day it is pro d uc e d the world over , in the caves of the Swiss Alps and in the most modern and scientific American cheese factories and laboratories . Of these myriad types we can here describe only a few . Cheese may be classified into that made with rennet and that made without . Of cheese made with rennet some is what is called hard , some soft . E h — The nglish a—nd American C edd ar the common American cheese ouda E d am the Dutch G and , the ru ere P armesan Swiss G y , and the Italian are all hard O f cheese made with rennet . As examples the soft varieties may be mentioned the French Camembert and r ream eu ehatel B ie C N . , and f cheese In a class by them Ro u e ort selves are such cheeses as the French q f , the E S tilton or onz ola e cu nglish , and the Italian G g , their p liar flavors being derived from molds implanted in the curd . W hen cheese is made without rennet , the milk is allowed to curdle by natural acidity or it is in some other

90 TH E S TORY OF MILK

P New York whence it spread into ennsylvania , Ohio C TO — i and the West , as well as to anada . day Wiscons n makes more cheese than all the other states together

B m e H H . e e e e Jos ph arding , who David urr ll , J ss Willia s , fath r Wh o I e syste matize d th e mak ntroduc d labor of th e Ame rican fae sav mg mach i ne ry and ing of Cheddar che e se tory system supplie s I n th e chee se In England factori es and Canada largely supplies England with Cheddar cheese of excellent quality .

The F actory S ystem The milk is delivered in the morning by the farmers at the factory and is weighed and strained through

- h cheese cloth into the cheese vat . W en it is all in the 6 ° vat it is warmed to a temperature of 8 F . by letting steam into the water surrounding the bottom and sides O f the j acke—ted vat . Ri e nin p g The milk should be slightly acid , not t noticeably sour, yet sufﬁcien ly ripened for the proper fermentation to take place in the process that follows . The best cheesemakers regulate the ripening by adding a starter to the sweet milk and allowing the lactic acid CHE E S E 9 1 bacteria to multiply in the milk until a Rennet Test or A cid Test shows that the desired degree of acidity has

' been reached . The starter may be sour whey or prefer

A m e a s u r i n g glass and an ac curate th e rmome ter are ind isp en sable Th e Marschall re nne t te st ably prepared from sweet skim milk or whole milk with a c ommerc I al lactic acid culture as described in Ferments B uttermilk 1 Chapter I under and . From % to

Th e Marschall Renne t Te st consists of a graduat ed cup (a) with h m O n e a fine hole for an outle t in t e botto . cubic ce ntimet e r of a stand ard rennet e xtract is dilut e d with wate r in th e glass bottle Th e cup l e m e th e e th e ee e th e m is fi l d with ilk and plac d on corn r of ch s vat , ilk th e fin e e th be ing allowe d to run through hol in e bottom of th e cup . Th e mome nt th e surface of th e milk re ach e s th e upp e r mark of th e graduation in th e cup th e dilut e d re nn et e xtract is added and quickly m h S stirred into th e ilk with t e pattle (d) . m e e Th S Wh en th e ilk b gins to curdl it stops running out . e weeter th e milk is th e more will run out b efore coagulation stops it and th e mark on th e scale at which it stops indicate s th e d egre e of acidity or Th e e th e m e e e in ripe ning . point is to hav ilk alik v ry day and if , for e th e ee em e ee e e h e th e stanc , ch s ak r has found that his ch s is b st if adds rennet to th e milk in th e vat when th e t est shows h e wants to rip en S o th e e e e e e e . 3 4 ih th e milk to that d gr v ry day , if t st shows or , it d icates that th e milk is not sufli c ie ntly ripened and it should b e allowed to stand warm for a longer time b efore it is se t with renne t . Te e Th e Acidomete r for making an Acid st is d scribed in Chapte r I . 92 THE STORY OF MILK

1 8 2 % starter Is usually sufﬁcient . An acidity of . % to 20 2 R . % or V2 degrees on the ennet Test is usually de

sir ed before the rennet is added . *—If Ad d ing Col or and Re nn et. the cheese is to be 1 2 An colored , from to ounces of liquid cheese color (

C h r i s t i a n D . A .

H e e ans n , inv ntor of commercial renne t ex tract Blowing up th e rennets to dry th em

natto Of dissolved in an alkali) per lbs . milk is now added and thoroughly mixed into the milk which is

Rennet (see unde r Ferments in Chapte r I ) is prepared from th e

h n - F third division of t e stomach of th e suckli g or milk fe d calf . ifty ye ars ago ch eesemak e rs use d to make th e ir own renne t by soaking ’ e e m e our m e e e e salt d calv s sto achs in sour wh y, and grand oth rs us d a pi c ”

e m m e e C e . of a dry , salt d sto ach to ak Junk t or urds and Wh y About 1 868 C H e C e e e m e th e e , hristian ans n , of op nhag n , D n ark , b gan pr p aration of Comme rcial Re nne t Extract which soon supplante d th e

- Now home made re nne t in all countrie s whe reve r ch e e se was made . m e e e m adays re nne t in liquid or powde r or table t for for ch s aking , and e T e m l are e e e n Junk t abl ts for i k puddings , pr par d pur and of know strength in laboratorie s and handled by druggists and d e ale rs in dairy

supplie s . Th e fresh stomachs are saved by th e farmers or butchers and are

94 TH E S TORY OF MILK

- M and loss of butter fat in the whey . ost cheesemakers therefore prefer rennet when they can get it . un The rennet having been added , the milk is left disturbed until a ﬁrm curd has been formed . When the curd breaks or splits sharply before the ﬁnger “ pushed slowly through it it is ready to be cut . — , Cutting Two sets of curd knives are used , each consisting of a metal frame in which tin ned steel blades

are hung , in one vertically

and in the other horizontally . The vertical knife is ﬁrst car ried slowly through the curd lengthwise and crosswise ; the horizontal se t O f blades is then moved carefully through

the length of the vat . When

the cutting is over , the entire mass should be in cubes about

half an inch square . The whey that begins to separate ou t should be clear M and yellow . ilky —whey is a S ign that the butter fat is es capin g in it ; the curd has

been broken up too violently . Curd knives In curdling , the casein encases the butter - fat and the obj ect of the breakin g up of the curd in the vat is to expel the whey but retain the fat in the cheese .

Cookin t e C r — g h u d . Gentle heat is now applied to raise the temperature gradually to 98 ° or 1 00° in the 3 0 M course of about minutes . eanwhile the small pieces of curd are kept ﬂoating in the whey by gentle CHE E S E 95

n stirri g with a rake and the hands , and are not allowed to pack at the bottom of the vat . The heating is easily n regulated by openi g the steam valve little by little . “ ” Through the cooking the pieces of curd shrink to

Cutting th e curd some extent and are hardened so that they will grad

- ually stand livelier stirring without losing butter fat . After the cooking the curd is left for an hour or so in the whey for a slight acidity to develop and it is then shoved toward the sides of the vat and the whey is ff “ drained o . Here again the Acid Test may assist in determining when the whey should be drawn . — Ch e d d arin or Mattin g g After thorough draining , 96 TH E S TORY OF MILK the curd is packed together in the bottom of the vat or on a “ sink provided with a false bottom covered with

- n cheese cloth . After fermenti g for 1 0 or 1 5 minutes it is cut into large pieces which are again packed together

Cheddaring or Matting th e curd

for further matting . The exact condition to be attained can be determined only by experience .

A simple test , the Hot Iron Test , may , however, help the cheesemaker to judge of this point . A hand ful of curd squeezed together and touched to a h ot steam pipe or an iron rod heated almost red - hot in the ﬁre under the boiler , and slowly withdrawn , will leave threads sticking to the iron . Depending upon the

98 TH E S TORY O F MILK

7 later the cheese is removed to a cooler room and arafﬁned possibly placed in cold storage . Usually it is p to prevent too m—uch drying and cracking of the rind . To cure a ﬁrst class Cheddar cheese takes from three

Filling th e curd into th e hoops

x e to si months , but most of the American cheese is mad to cure much more quickly and is eaten two to four d months O l . Indeed , it is generally shipped from the factory eight to ten days old and whatever further curing it gets is in the warehouse of the c ommissionman or in the grocery store . — iz e and Packin Form, S g The old style American c c lind ric al 1 4 cheese is y , about inches in diameter , and CHE E S E

varying in depth to weigh between 60 and 80 pounds .

Various other forms are now often made , square and long or in fancy shapes , such as a ball or a pineapple .

Aside from such freaks , which have never become very popular , other deviations from the large , standard , C a e American heddar , are also m de to a considerabl

Th e G ang press

P extent . eople who have visited the beautiful National M C . Dairy Shows held in turn in hicago , Springﬁeld , ass C O M and olumbus , . , the National ilk and Dairy Farm E C P xp ositions of New York ity , the Ontario rovincial

Fair held each year at Toronto , or the annual State W M Fairs in New York , isconsin , ichigan and other cheesemaking sections will have in mind ﬁr st the prom inent x C e hibits of the regular heddar , showing a uni formity in texture , form and taste that is really remark But i able . one will also adm re the variety of other TH E S TORY O F MILK

Flats Twins forms . There are the or , packed two in a box and weighing together the same as one American; the Young Americas packed four in a box ; the Longhorns of six to eight inches in diameter ; . others made like a loaf

Taking th e chee se out of th e press of bread and creased so that a pound or two may b e Off cut fairly accurately , etc . iant Cheeses x The G , weighing ﬁve to si tons , occa sionally exhibited and cut up at World Fairs and on O similar ccasions are , like the pineapple cheese , a curi osit y rather than an industrial product . ’ One of the best forms , in the writer s opinion , is the

- lb 5 . small cheese , proportioned exactly like the large

1 02 TH E S TORY OF MILK

and if necessary with soda , soap , or washing powder .

The surroundings should be kept neat and attractive, and the cheesemaker must see that the transportation cans are kept clean by the farm ers and the milk delivered in good co—ndition . Yield The yield is around 1 0 % of the milk . To make a pound of fresh cheese takes from nine to eleven pounds of

milk . In curing , a part of the

weight is lost by evaporation , but this loss is reduced to a arafﬁnin minimum by p g . In some localities an increased yield is Obtained by washing the Cheese box curd and making it absorb all the water it can hold . The process is not commendable and while it may sell to some extent , in certain markets “ ” or where a soft , fresh cheese is liked , washed “ soaked curd cheese can never compare favorably in

- C quality with a well made , ﬁrm heddar cheese that is mellowed down by long - time curing to a consistency so it will fairly m—elt in your mouth . Composition The American cheese contains almost

- all the casein and the butter fat of the milk , besides

- - such portions of the milk albumin , milk sugar , and mineral matter as are held in the water or whey which is retained in the cheese . In round ﬁgures average

American cheese contains equal parts of casein , butter 3 3 5 0 . fat and water , to % of each In order to pro teet the honest maker and the consumer and pre vent “ soaking ” of the curd to an extent that may be CHE E S E 1 03

considered fraudulent , the dairy laws of the State of New York limit the contents of water permissible to 40 42 % and —% respectively for certain classes of cheese . ualitie s A C % good heddar cheese should be mellow , O f yet solid , without holes , and an agreeable taste , C neither sharp nor bitter . heese can be made of skim t i . milk , but is hardly palatable In the fall of the year , — 1 2 when the average milk is rich in butter fat , % or % butter - fat may be taken from the milk and the re sulting partly - skimmed milk will still make a fairly good cheese , hardly distinguishable from full cream cheese . Under the laws of the State of New York it m M C must , however , be marked Ski ilk heese .

Cheese Mad e from P asteurized Milk From time to time attempts have been made to make

Cheddar cheese from pasteurized milk . If the milk 1 45 ° 3 0 is heated to only , and held for minutes at such temperature , its property to form a firm curd with a rennet is not destroyed and it will m ke a fine cheese , but if it is pasteurized at a higher temperature it will not curdle firmly until it is ripened or otherwise brought back to the condition required for satisfactory action r of the rennet ferment . Thorough ripening with a pu e culture starter will do it , or an addition of muriatic acid will accomp lish the same in a shorter time , but care must be taken not to use too much , which would L make the cheese dry and crumbly . Dr . J . . Sammis B and A . T . ruhn of the Wisconsin Dairy School worked out the problem and systematized a process which is de in B 1 scribed ulletin 65 of the U . S . Department of Agri culture and by which it is claimed a first- class cheese can be made regularly from thoroughly pasteurized milk . 1 04 TH E S TORY OF MILK

Making CheddarCheese on the Farm It takes quite a little experience to make a good C o heddar cheese and , unless one has the time and p

American outﬁt for farm chee se making

ortunit - p y to study it and make it an every day practice , it is not as a rule advisable to attempt making Cheddar cheese in the home from the milk of one or a few cows . The amateur will usually ﬁnd it easier to make Neuf chatel or Cream or Cottage cheese for home use or for the home market . If Cheddar cheese is to be made regularly it is best to get an outﬁt consisting of a small boiler and a jacketed

1 06 TH E STORY OF MILK

B i day , or a pure culture starter made with utterm lk 1 Tablets , not to exceed % or If it is desired to make colored cheese add a tea or spoonful of liquid cheese color, cheese color tablet 1 00 e dissolved in warm water , to pounds of milk , mor

Cutting th e curd or less according to season and the shade of color de i sired n the cheese .

Next add the rennet . Where cheese is made from

500 . R less than lbs of milk ennet Tablets are handy , one 80 1 00 . 50 . tablet to or lbs For less than lbs of milk ,

Junket Tablets may be used , one to a gallon . Dissolve the tablet , or tablets , or fraction of a tablet , as the case cold may be , in water and stir the solution well into the O f L t coy milk , making sure thorough mixing . e stand Cut ered for half an hour until a ﬁrm curd is formed . or break the curd very carefully with a big knife or

- spoon or home made fork with wires across the prongs , CHEE SE 1 07

' imitating as far as possible the operation with curd n k ives in the factory . “ i Cook the curd as in factory cheesemak ng . If steam is not available , allow the curd to settle and dip

Curd fork

Taking th e t emperature of th e mil k in a shotgun can Mold or “ Hoop off some of the whey which is then heated and poured back on the curd so as to raise the temperature of the 2 R whole mass about degrees . epeat this several times , gradually raising the temperature to a few degrees at a time . Keep the curd gently stirred up and ﬂoating in the whey and do not allow it to lie on the bottom of the 1 08 THE S TORY O F MILK

vat long enough to pack firmly together , stirring once in a while until by smell and taste (if not also by acid or hot iron tests) it appears to be sufficiently fermented for the whey to be drawn , a condition that can only be learned by experience . This will be about two or three hours from the time the rennet is added . Draw the whey and press more out of the curd with the hands . Let the curd mat and break it up alternately several times ; finally crumble and pulverize it and keep it stirred with the hands , adding salt at the rate O f three to four 1 00 ounces to the curd from lbs .

Combine d screw and Diagram of lever press l ever press

of milk and continuing the stirring until the curd is cooled down to below when it should be packed

into the hoop and put to press . This salting and cooling

may take another hour . The hoop may be made of

wood or heavy tin of any size desired , with a loose fol

lower of wood . The sides and bottom should be per

1 1 0 TH E S TORY OF MILK

B egin with light pressure and increase it gradually every hour until at night the full pressure is applied . After an hour take the cheese out and turn it in the hoop , then return it to the press and at night apply full pressure . The next morning take it out and weigh it and place it on the shelf to cure in a room O f mod

o . erat temperature , turning it every day After a couple of weeks it may be removed to a cool cellar and rubbed sufﬁ with grease . In two to three months it should be n c ie tly matured for consumption . CHE E S E

OTHE R TYPE S O F HA RD CHE E S E MADE WITH RE NNE T

In the manufacture of the Dutch Gouda , the Danish “ Ex i port , and other similar typ es , the cook ng and

A variety of domestic and fore ign che e se made at th e dairy school of th e University of Wisconsin

O f E matting of the curd , characteristic the nglish and

C . American heddar , are more or less omitted Other

wise the process and the result are not greatly different . “ ” They are all hard or solid cheese of the same class , though there are hundreds of varieties in different

localities , each with some peculiarity of its own . 1 1 2 TH E S TORY OF MILK — ouda Danish Ex ort Goud a Ch e e se . The G like the p , — cheese , is made from whole or partly skimmed milk °

90 . which is set with rennet at F and is coagulated , ready for cutting , in ﬁfteen to twenty minutes . The “ curd is broken with the lyre , so called , a frame on

which piano wires are suspended . The curd is but slightly “ cooked ” and the whey is drawn while still

sweet . After being pressed with the hands in the vat to squeeze Goud a Ch e ese ou t the whey the curd , still quite

warm , is put into wooden molds and worked and squeezed in them with the hands for half an hour to m eliminate more whey , when the old is placed in a 1 2 1 regular press for to 8 hours . To salt it the cheese is placed in a strong brine where it remains for several

days . It is then put on the shelf in the curing room where it is turned and rubbed daily and in four to six weeks it I 1 0 is marketed . The cheese s about inches in diameter by 4 to 5 inches high . — - Ed am Ch e e se . The ball shaped red Edamis also made in Holland by a

similar method to that of the Gouda . Fresh milk is set at from 900 to ° ° 93 F . in summer and up to 97 in win — Th e Lyre ter , colored to a rather high yellow f with Annatto . Add su ﬁcient rennet to coagulate the 8 1 5 Cu milk in to minutes . t curd carefully with the “ ” r ly e and break with fork into very ﬁne pieces , as L . 3 4 small peas eave to settle for to minutes , putting cover on the vat if the temperature in the room is

1 1 4 TH E S TORY OF MILK

of curd put in which is squeezed and worked thoroughly M with the hands . ore curd is added and worked in the same way and this is repeated until the mold is

full with a large top on , which is pressed with the hands 4 5 3 4 for or minutes , turning the cheese or times and d opening the rain holes if plugged up . Some makers sprinkle a teaspoonful of ﬁne salt in the bottom of the

mold , but in warm weather it is better

to work in a quarter of an ounce of salt .

This work must be. done quickly so the

curd will not cool . When thus formed the cheese is dipped for 1 or 2 minutes in fresh whey heated ° to 1 26 (in win ter and pressed with the hands in the mold for another 2 Mold for Edam O ff chee se minutes when it is carefully wiped by rolling on a ﬁne cloth to remove the last r d drop of w hey . The cheese is then w appe in a

ﬁne cloth , placed in the mold and put to press , in 5 7 the Spring for to hours , later in the year for 1 2 hours . The cloth is now removed and the cheese is put in a larger mold which is placed in a water tight salting box provided with a cover and a drain hole in one end . The ﬁrst day a pinch of salt is put on the top of the cheese and the next the whole cheese is rolled in damp salt , turned and put back in the mold , a liberal quantity of salt being placed on the top . This is repeated every day until the cheese from being soft and elastic becomes hard which as a rule takes 8 to 1 0 4 1 —1 2 1 2 . 0 . days for a lb . and days for a lb cheese Finally the cheese is left a few hours in the brine col le cted in the box , washed , wiped and placed on the s helf in the curing room . CHE E S E 1 1 5

The curing room should be light and well ventilated , never above 72 ° nor below Windows must not be opened to admit dry wind or moist air . If too dry the cheese will crack and if too moist it will be covered with deleterious yellowish red fungi . The cheese is turned daily the ﬁrst month , later every other day or twice a 24 3 0 week . When to days old the cheese is soaked for 68 one hour in water of to washed with a brush , dried for 20 to 40 minutes in the sun and returned to the shelf . This is repeated two weeks later and then the cheese is pain ted with linseed oil and left on the shelf until shortly before shipping when it is scraped with a sharp knife and painted according to the demand of the particular market for which it is prepared ; yel n E lowish with A natto for ngland and Spain , red with

Turnsole for other countries . When dry it is rubbed with a little butter and red color . — E m S wis s Ch e e se . The Swiss Gruyere or m enthal also belongs to this class . It is characterized by its 1 00 form and size , being large , round and ﬂat , weighing 1 4 0 . to lbs or more , and by the large holes which are wanted in Swiss , but not tolerated in American or ﬁrst Dutch cheese . It was formerly supposed that class Swiss cheese could only be made in the Alps , but very good imitations have long been made in Northern B New York and in Wisconsin . esides in the usual large round form , the same as the genuine imported Emm “ ” enthaler , American Swiss or Switzer is also blocks S IX made in , Inches square and twenty inches

25 3 0 . long , weighing to lbs Until lately Swiss cheese has been made in the old fashioned way , the factory and tools being of the simplest description . The milk was heated in a copper 1 1 6 THE S TO RY O F MILK

On th e cauldron hanging a crane , enabling cheesemaker to swing it on or off the ﬁreplace . Nowadays the kettle is usually j acketed and heated with steam . The round

e- form is still preferred to the American chees vat , how

Swiss cheese

ever , as it adapts itself better to the peculiar method of handling the curd . The milk is set with rennet at a temperature of 90° ° 95 n F . in summer and in winter , sufficient rennet bei g used to make a firm curd in thirty to forty minutes . B ut very little color is added . The curd is cut with a ” long , sharp wooden knife , the cheese sword , firstone way into sheets , then , as soon as the cuts stand clear,

1 1 8 TH E S TORY OF MILK

they come to the top . All the curd having been cut into square pieces , it is further broken by the stirrer , a stick at the lower end of which a few cross sticks or n wi gs of brass wire are ﬁxed , the whole mass being kept in constant motio—n . C ooking the C urd . After breakin g up the curd to n the size of peas or beans , the stirri g is discontinued for about ten minutes , when it is begun again and the kettle is turned over the ﬁre , or steam is applied , to heat the curd to 1 40° under constant stirring which is continued for 45 to 60 minutes after this temperature has been reached . The condition of the curd is judged by squeezing a handful and noticing its elasticity and

consistency . It is important to stop stirring at the M right moment . ore whey is expelled in making Swiss C cheese than for heddar cheese .

The cooking and agitating having been ﬁnished , the mass , which now consists of grains the size of wheat , is once more stirred up with such force as to make it form a funnel at the center and it is then left at rest

for ﬁve to ten minutes .

The curd , forming a rather solid cake at the bottom

of the kettle , is now lifted out without being broken . One end of a large piece of cloth is folded around a B ﬂexible rod . ending over the kettle the maker takes hold of both ends of the rod and gathering the other

end of the cloth between his teeth , pushes the rod down

along the farther side of the kettle , letting it follow the bottom towards himself until the whole mass of curd

is gathered in the cloth , when it is lifted out of the kettle

and placed in the hoop on the press table . The hoop can be enlarged or diminished to take care of a varying amount of curd which is put into it in the same solid CHE E S E 1 9

cake as formed in the kettle without being broken . P ressure is applied , at ﬁrst , gently , later heavier and

after half an hour the cheese is taken out , turned and

In Swis s cheese making th e curd is lifted out of th e vat with a strong cloth

provided with fresh bandage , put back into press and

left till the next day . — Curing and Salting The cheese is ﬁrst placed in a

curing room above ground and heated in winter . After

a few weeks it is removed to the cellar . Sometimes thr ee to ﬁve cheese are piled one on the top of the other for a few days with a few handfuls of salt between i them . The salting proper is done by rubb ng and brushing dry salt and the brine formed from same into 1 20 TH E S TORY OF MILK

— 1 00 . 4 5 . the cheese , altogether to lbs of salt to lbs of E cheese . very day it is rubbed with a dry rag and the c heese is turned and salted on the other side until the salt is thoroughly incorporated . The cheese is cured for at least 1 00 days in the factory and is usually stored for another three to six months by the dealer before it is ready for the con

sumer . R oq ue fort. T h e French Roqu efort is inoculated w i t h a mold f r o In stale bread which spreads through th e cheese and p r o d u c e s the peculiar ﬂavor of this

’

type . I t i s m a d e ’ from S h e e p s milk a n d w a s formerly cured in cool sub ter ranean b ut caverns , now in elaborate cur n s I g houses . In thi Swiss chee se press c o u n t r y imitation Roquefort is made of cow ’s milk and cured in cold

storage . ’ It should be remembered , however , that sheep s milk is very rich in fat and that a rich Roquefort that will compare favorably with the genuine cannot be made ’ from cow ’s milk without an addition of cream if sheep s

1 22 TH E S TO RY OF MILK hoops which are either c f glazed stoneware or per 4 orated 8 n . . f tin , i ches in diameter by in high

Ground stale , moldy bread is sprinkled in the curd 1 as it is put into the hoop , at the rate of part of bread to parts of curd . This moldy bread is prepared from 2 parts of wheat ﬂour and 1 part of rye ﬂour leavened with sour yeast and vinegar and baked hard .

The loaf is placed in a dark , moist cellar to mold . In six weeks it is penetrated with mold when it is dried ° 86 rm at and pulverized , fo ing the powder used for inoculation into the cheese curd . When the hoops are filled they are placed in large wooden boxes at a temperature of 65 0 to 70° for the off whey to drain . The first few days the cheese is turned three times a day , later once a day , and when five days O ld it is brought into the curing room where it remains until it is firm enough to be shipped to the large cold storage establishments , where it is taken care of until ready for the general market . “ In the caves a high degree of moisture , a low — ° °— temperature 40 to 50 and pure air are essential conditions . The cheese is first salted by being rubbed repeatedly with salt on all sides . The slime forming on the surface is brushed or scraped off so as not to prevent the ad f ir o a . mission , which is essential to the curing In order to further facilitate the penetration with air the cheese is now pricked with numerous needles by means of a machine and placed on the shelf in the cave where the proper moisture and temperature are maintained .

Various fermentations are now developing , one after another , regulated by scraping , ventilation , etc . , until in six to twelve weeks the cheese is ready for the market CHE E S E 1 23 and is packed for shipment in paper or in tinfoil and in wicker baskets or airtight boxes according to destina — , tion , for home consumption or for export . Parme san Ch e e s e is an Italian cheese made mostly in the Valley of the River Po and named from the City

m R e ee e G E b re h Curing roo in a oqu fort ch s factory ( . ll c t)

P rrna - of a . It is produced from partly skimmed milk l and is a lowed to become hard and dry , being used

grated with macaroni . The milk is set with rennet at a comparatively high 95 ° F temperature , about . , and when it is firmly curdled r it is broken up and sti red rather vigorously , which C makes the curd fi—ne and dry . olor is now added S a ron at O f 1 powdered fi the rate gram to 00 kg .

milk . The curd is cooked slowly under constant stirring 1 24 TH E S TORY OF MILK

to a temperature up towards 1 00° when the whey should be perceptibly acid . The curd is then allowed to settle in the round kettle and when fairly ﬁrm it is lifted up in a cloth , the same as in Swiss cheesemaking . The mold is also much the same as the Swiss and the curd is but slightly pressed . In the course of the day the cheese is turned once or twice and put into fresh cloth . The next day it is put into the curing room when it is rubbed with salt . In a few months the cheese is 011e and is then scraped oil and polished with linseed . Sometimes it is kept in storage two or three years in a dark room at a ° temperature of 63 F . The composition averages % 3 2 2 1 4 1 % water, % fat , % nitrogenous matters and

6 % ash . Cac cio Cav allo is made in Southern Italy of a form almost like a beetroot . The milk is set with rennet at 9 ° about 5 F . and after the curd has been broken up the whey is dipped O ff and heated to boiling when it is poured back on the curd . The mass is then allowed to ferment eight to fourteen hours ac

cording to the temperature of the air . The quality of the cheese depends largely on C accio C avallo this fermentation . The fermented curd is cut into pieces and submerged in boiling water and is then kneaded and formed into the desired shape . After lying in cold water for two hours and in brine for thirty hours it is dried and smoked until it attains

. 5 a ﬁne golden color It is made in various sizes , from 20 1 to pounds , and the yield is said to vary from 0% to 1 6 C % of the milk . accio Cavallo is eaten on bread as

1 26 TH E S TORY OF MILK

on the follower . The cheese is turned a few times and the next day it is taken out of the mold and placed on

the salting table . The salting is done by rubbing the cheese on all sides with s alt which penetrates the curd 3 and draws out moisture . This is repeated for days and the cheese is then left to cure , being washed and wiped off every week to prevent molding . i ‘ h i d Brick cheese s s pp e one or two months old . It

is wrapped in paper and packed twenty in a box . M unste r Ch e e se is very much the same as Brick except for the form , it being round , molded in a per forated tin hoop instead of the box used for Limburger B and rick .

S OFT RE N N E T CHE E S E

The soft cheese made with rennet may be clas siﬁed h cured as fres and . — u h Ne ufch ate l . The fresh soft cheese of the Ne fc atel or Cream Cheese type is easily made and may be pro d d uc e in any house from a small quantity of milk . The milk is set at a comparatively low temperature, usually 2 ° F 7 . , with very little rennet , just enough to coagulate

the milk in about eighteen hours . During that time a slight acidity develops in the milk . When it is ﬁrmly curdled it is carefully dipped on to cheese—cloth sus O n pended a frame , or into cotton bags where it drains

overnight . TO make the cheese quickly a starter is sometimes

used and more rennet employed . The milk is heated 0 F 2 80 . 5 7 to , % starter and % c . c . of rennet extract ,

or one rennet tablet per hundred pounds of milk , are

added and the milk curdles in about 3 0 minutes . After draining for a few hours the curd is gently CHE E S E 1 27

pressed for a similar time . When the whey is fairly well expelled , the curd is kneaded or run through a meat 2 1 cutter with a little salt , not more than % oz . to 0 lbs . r of cu d . The outﬁt and the manipulation is essentially C the same as described under ottage cheese . A superior quality is Obtained by pasteurizing the milk and if that is done a pure culture starter should always be used . If the slow setting method is used a very small amount of starter , say is sufﬁcient , but when the quick process is employed 1 0% to 25% may be added .

To give it a good appearance for market , the cheese is molded in little tin molds very much like a quarter pound baking powder can with open ends . The cylindrical roll of cheese is wrapped in parchment paper and tinfoil and is im mediately ready for consumption . In an ice box it will keep for a week or so . Neufchatel c h e e s C may be mad e from Molding N eufchat e l ch eese 0 whole mi lk or partly mm 1 6 2 ski ed milk . The y ield is from to 0 lbs . out of

1 00 lbs . of milk . Cre am Ch e e s e th e ‘ sam is usually made in e way . A mix ture of cream and milk containing about 1 0%

- butter fat is used , though sometimes the cream is not added until the time of salting . The mold is square , 1 ” 2 2 2 x x deep . These soft kinds of cheese are 1 28 TH E S TO RY O F MILK

Often mixed with chopped peppers , olives or nuts and

make excellent sandwiches .

—~ m Cure d S oft Ch e e se . Crea N eu chatel For or f cheese , made for curing , the curd is salted more than for fresh

cheese , or the molded cheese is rolled in salt . For a week or two it is placed in a curing room on straw mats or the like where it ferments slightly before being wrapped and packed —for shipment . French S oft Ch e e s e . The many forms of French soft Brie amember C t . cheese as represented by the , the , etc , are subj ected to special fermentations which give to each its peculiar flavor . Attempts have been made to use pure cultures of the bacteria active in such fer mentations and so reduce the art of cheesemaking to But a more scientific process . it has been found that any desired kind of cheese cannot be made simply by adding a culture of this or that bacterium to pasteurized milk . Of vastly greater importance for the development of the proper bacteria and flavor is the handling of the milk and the curd by the experienced cheesemaker . Inoculation with a pure culture alone does not make the special cheese wanted .

TH E S TO RY O F MILK

One gallon of skim milk will make about pounds of cheese . If the milk is sweet it should be placed in a pan and allowed to remain in a clean warm place at a 7 ° temperature of about 5 F . , until it clabbers . The

Pouring th e curdled milk on cloth to drain

Or clabbered milk should have a clean , sour flavor . d inaril 3 0 y this will take about hours , but when it is desirable to hasten the pro cess a small quantity of clean - flav ored sour milk may be mixed with the sweet milk . “ As soon as the milk has thickened or firmly elab ‘ 2 bered it should be cut into pieces inches square , after which the curd sh ould be stirred thoroughly with a CHE E S E

P a O f spoon . l ce the pan broken curd in a vessel of 1 ° hot water so as to raise the temperature to 00 F . C 3 0 u ook at that temperature for about minutes , d ring

Lifting th e cloth back and forth to facilitate draining

which time stir gently with a spoon for 1 minute at 5

minute intervals . “ i At the conclusion of the heat ng , pour the curd

and whey into a small cheese - cloth bag (a clean salt

bag will do nicely) and hang the bag in a fruit - strainer

rack to drain , or the curd may be poured into a colander

or a strainer over which a piece of cheese - cloth has been 5 1 0 laid . After or minutes work the curd toward the

center with a sp oon . Raising and lowering the ends 1 3 2 TH E S TO RY O F MILK

of the cloth helps to make the whey drain faster . To complete the draining tie the end O f the bag together and hang it up . Since there is some danger that the curd will become too dry , draining should stop when the whey ceases to ﬂow in a steady stream . “ The curd is then emptied from the bag and worked with a spoon or a butter paddle until it becomes ﬁne

Pressing th e curd

O f in grain , smooth , and the consistency of mashed in potatoes . Sour or sweet cream may be added to crease the smoothness and palatability and improve the ﬂavor . Then the cheese is salted according to taste , about one teasp oonful to a pound of curd . “ B ecause of the ease with which the ch eese can be made it is desirable to make it often so that it may be eaten fresh , although if it is kept cold it will not spoil for several days . If the cheese is not to be eaten

1 3 4 TH E S TORY OF MILK in ten tablespoonfuls of water and use one spoonful 1 of the solution for each 0 lbs . of milk . If a starter is used the rennet solution is added im mediately after the starter is put in if no starter is used ° 0 b e the milk is left for ﬁve or six hours at 8 F . to ripen fore adding the rennet . The milk will curdle overnight . After draining for thirty minutes on cotton sheeting the ends of the cloth are tied together and a weight is placed on top to press the curd gently until the desired consistency is attained Salt may be worked In at the rate of 2% ounces to 1 0 lbs . of curd . If desired , add sweet or sour cream at 1 0 the rate of pint to lbs . of curd or pint of cream f 3 0 . O to the product from lbs milk . It will be seen that Cottage cheese made with rennet is really the same as Neufchatel cheese , the only differ ence being in the form and packing or wrapping of the ﬁnished cheese . — S nappy Ch e e s e By allowing the sour skim milk curd to ferment under careful regulation , a variety of sharp , snappy , more or less hard cheese can be made .

Though there is no general demand for them , some kinds are quite popular in their own restricted localities . The Danish A pp etite cheese is only one of the many vari eties which have as many names . Club Ch e e s e and similar varieties are made by grind ing up old dry cheese with a little butter and packing the product in j ars or other attractive packages . Amer

R - ican , oquefort , or any other well known type may be as E used the stock for these cheeses . verywhere they are favorites in dining cars and lunch rooms . — Wh e y Ch e e s e In Switzerland the so- called %ieger cheese is made from sour whey, the albumin being coag CHE E S E 1 3 5 ulated by heat and , with whatever butter fat there may be left in the whey, skimmed ff o the top . In Nor “ ” way Myseost ( Ost is N o r w e g i a n for cheese) is made by boiling down whey almost to dryness . If goat milk is avail able to mix in , it improves the cheese . The main substance Milking th e goat in Norway is sugar of milk and the cheese has a sweet syrupy ﬂavor .

MILK S UGAR

b - The y product , sugar of milk , is produced by acidi f in n y g the whey , heati g to boiling and neutralizing with u lime until the albumin is coag lated . It is then ﬁltered out and the clariﬁed liquid is concentrated in vacuum . From the thick syrup the sugar is allowed to crystallize out leaving the salts or mineral matters (milk—ash) in , — the remaining liquid . The use of milk sugar is limited to medicinal purposes and for modifying milk for in

nt . fa s . The production is therefore not very extensive

CAS E IN In a number of creameries casein is produced from skim milk by precipitating it with an acid and drying C and pulverizing the precipitate . asein is widely in used as a substitute for ivory , billiard balls , buttons ,

etc . It is also used as glue , and as a binder in paints . 1 3 6 TH E S TORY OF MILK

MILK POWDE R

The production and use of dry milk has increased enormously during the last few years and the processes of manufacture have been improved well - nigh to per

e . fe tion There are several methods practiced , the most important being the following %

u st- H atmaker The J , in which a large metal drum or cylinder revolves slowly in a tank of milk . The drum

is heated by steam inside and , as it rolls out of the milk , the metal surface picks up a thin ﬁlm of milk which

quickly dries and is removed by a scraper . The E ckenberg process employs vacuum evaporating pans , like those used for making condensed milk and maple syrup . ’ The M errell- S ou le Company s method consists in driving a blast of hot air into a ﬁne spray of milk, which at once reduces the milk to a ﬁne powder . ” In the E conomic process the milk is dried by hot

in M - air the same as the errell Soule method , but in dropping through a tower from a height of some 3 0 feet the milk meets several blasts of air of different temperatures . It is claimed that in this way alone rich milk and cream may be reduced to a powder without injury to , or change of, the original fat globules . —B i S kim Milk P owd e r. eaut ful skim milk powders Con are now made which dissolve perfectly in water . x c onstitu taining , as they do , the e tremely nourishing m ents of the fatless ilk in a most palatable form , they can be used in baking and in many food products to great advantage . — e Mil k P Wh ol ow d e r. Until recently dried whole milk was not produced of good keeping quality as the

1 3 8 TH E S TORY OF MILK

WHE Y

b - n Whey is a y product in cheesemaki g . Usually it is fed to hogs and especially together with grain or Bu bran it makes an excellent food for them . t whey is also prepared for human food . In the hospital or in the home it serves as a substitute for milk when a re mild diet of easily digested , food is temporarily quired for a weak stomach . For such purposes it must not be allowed to become acid as in cheesemaking , but should be prepared as the chief product from sweet new milk or freshly S eparated skim milk . The sweet milk is set with rennet—one Junket Tablet dissolved — , at in cold water , to a quart of milk a temperature of 90° 1 ° to 00 F . As soon as a ﬁrm curd is formed it is carefully broken up and transferred to a strainer of

- cheese cloth . Unless it is to be used at once , the whey ° strained Off should be immediately cooled to 50 or lower . If left at a higher temperature it will soon become sour . A teaspoonful of limewater to a quart , or a pinch of soda , will help to keep it sweet . Still , in any event , it should not be kept long , but prepared fresh when required . CHAPTER IV

MILK A S A FOOD

M —un ilk is ﬁrst of all the food for the young , til a certain age the only food , and a perfect food . It con tains but little refuse or waste and is under favorable conditions almost wholly digestible .

N UTR I E N TS All foods contain certain groups of nutrients which may be classiﬁed according to various functions in nu ri i n r t t o and thei chemical c omp osition . — Prote in The protein . group of nutrients contains nitrogen and is necessary for building up the tissues

of the body , the muscles and the tendons which also

contain nitrogen . Only by this group can tissues P wasted by constant wear and tear be rebuilt . roteins

ﬂ h - m are the es for ing group . To some degree the pro teins or albuminoids are also active in producing fat

in the body , but the other groups of nutrients , espe i ll c a . y the fats , also contrib—ute Fats and Car b ohyd rate s Another important func tion of food is to produce and maintain the animal

heat . The main sources of this necessity are the fats

and the carbohydrates , so called because they consist of the element carbon combined with oxygen and

hydrogen , the last two in the exact proportion in which

they are combined in water . All of these three groups

furnish the fuel , so to speak , for the body , but they 1 3 9 1 40 TH E S TORY OF MILK

P are not equal in this respect . ound for pound , when burned in the body , the fats yield times as much heat as protein or t—he carbohydrates . Mine ral M atte rs Finally there are in all foods the n r mi e al matters , a group containing a number of salts which are indispensible because they are constituents P in of every part of the body . hosphate of lime , for

u - stance , makes p one half of the substance of the bones , and the sulphates and chlorides of potash and soda , iron , etc . , are everywhere present in smaller quantities . No food in—which any of them is lacking is complete . Relation The value of a fb od depends largely upon the relation of one group of nutrients to another . Proper nutrition can only be obtained when a sufﬁcient amount of ﬂesh - forming as well as of heat - producing “ ” nutrients are present , when the nutritive ratio is r properly balanced for the pa ticular purpose in view, be it the growth o f the child , the maintenance of the body , the restoration of matter consumed by labor of body or brain , or the supply of heat to make up for cold surroundings . Milk c ontain s al l of these groups of nutrients . The protein is represented in milk by the casein and al

- bumin , the fats by the butter fat , the carbohydrates

- by milk sugar , and the mineral matters by the milk ash . Human milk contains them in a perfect propor ’ tion for infants , and for all purposes of nutrition cow s “ ” milk may be used to make up a balanced ration , if not alone , then in connection with other food . N R — “ u ritiv e atio . t As we said before , the nutritive ratio of a food means the ratio of its ﬂ esh - forming constituents—proteins—to its heat—producing nutri — C ’ ents carbohydrates and fats . ow s milk , containing

1 42 TH E S TORY OF MILK

cheapest articles of diet , and should be much more extensively used .

The following table , compiled by specialists of the

U . S . Department of Agriculture , shows the quantities of various foods needed to supply as much protein or energy as 1 quart of milk %

Another method of comparison is shown by the table n below , in which the relative value of certai foods as economical sources of protein is given %

1 0 According to this table , if milk is selling at cents

a quart , sirloin steak must sell as low as cents a

pound , and eggs at cents a dozen to supply pro

tein at equal cost . MILK A s A FOOD 1 43

To S upply Energy atEqual Cost

Sirloin ste ak must not And eggs not more When ml lk IS b e more than than

7 c ents a quart c ents a pound c ents a doz en 8 c ents a quart c ents a pound c ents a doz en 9 c ents a quart c e nts a pound c ents a doz en 1 0 cents a quart cents a pound c ents a doz en 1 2 c ents a quart c ents a pound c ents a doz en 1 5 c ents a quart c ents a pound c ents a doz en — Fallacy of Th e ore tic al Val uation While the con tents of protein and the ratio between digestible pro tein and fats and carbohydrates on one hand , and the on fuel or energy value the other , have long been the only recognized measures for food values , they are ad mitted ly quite inadequate and in sufﬁcient and although they are a great help when used with discrim m i i ation in mak ng up food rations , they are often abused by persons who do not take their fallacies into consideration . “ — S ome th ing Unknown . Recent i investigations by Dr . F . G . Hopk ns , E E . C . of ambridge , ngland , and Dr E M Dr . . V . c Collum Mc Collum V . , formerly of Wis n consi , now of the Johns Hopkins University , have proven conclusively that one food ingredient cannot always be substituted for another with impunity even though the most searching chemical analysis shows

them both alike in contents and digestibility . There is “ ” —“ Something U—nknown in certain foods Vitamin es some call it essential especially in promoting the 1 44 TH E S TORY OF MILK

growth of the young , which our present knowledge of B 1 7 chemistry cannot explain . In ulletin No . of the Wisconsin E xperiment Station experiments with the feeding of rats are described which show how butter - fat could no t be replaced in the ration by vegetable fats of apparently the same composition and digestibility with out disastrous results , and similar conditions have been f found in regard to other foodstu fs , proteins as well as

Th e rat on th e left got ﬁv e p er c ent of cottonse e d O il and th e one on th e e on e er e e e e right got inst ad and a half p c nt of butt rfat , oth rwis i T e r m th eir rations we re al ke . h ese r sults a e typical for any ration ade up of puriﬁe d foodstuffs with butte rfat in th e m as compare d with any

‘ Th e m fat of plant origin . plant fats lack an unknown so ething with out which growth cannot proce ed .

- n un fats . The yolk of eggs and butter fat c ontai this known something which is absolutely essential for the growth of the child and which is missing in most sub stitu tes , especially in lard and vegetable fats . The above illustration is from the work of Me Collum and Davis at the Wisconsin Experiment

Station . Realizing the fallacy of the old rules for making up P rations for the feeding of farm animals , rofessor E v v ard of Iowa is trying the reliability of the instincts of animals as a guide to the proper selection of the most

1 46 TH E S TORY OF MILK

box . In most ice boxes the temperature is allowed to rise higher than is generally supposed , and it is better to keep the milk bottle next to the ice than in the food compartments . Milk and cream easily absorb ﬂavors from the air and should not be kept in open vessels next to other

food . A n y h o u s e keeper knows how quickly milk or cream will be tainted by standing in the same compartment w i t h o n i o n s o r m u s k melons ; if the bottle

is not covered , milk may also be contami nated b y other less noticeable but more harmful vap ors from Le t nearby products .

A clean ic e - box the milkman furnish you with some extra in milk bottle caps , or cover your milk bottle with an verted tumbler .

As has been shown in previous chapters , milk is a favorable soil for all sorts of germs and bacteria to grow in . It must therefore be kept from contamination with the utmost care , and everything that comes in contact with—it must be scrupulously clean . - Top Milk . When the milk has been standing at

- rest three or four hours , the top milk will be consider ably richer than the rest . If such rich milk is wanted off for any particular purpose it may be poured , to be MILK A s A FOOD 1 47

eaten with cereals , berries , etc . In twelve hours most O f m the cream will rise and may be skim ed off , although thirty - six or even forty—eight hours may be required to get all that can be obtained by setting . The half

S kimmed milk left when the top - milk has been removed ’ after 3 to 6 hours setting will still contain 2% or more of butter - fat and is very good for drinking ; even the skim milk from which the cream has been taken after 1 2 ’ hours setting is still an excellent beverage , provided P it is sweet . erfectly skimmed , almost entirely fatless , milk may be used in various ways in cooking , to make in up for lack of protein many other food products . B ut care must be taken that it is pure and sweet , or its rather , condition , sweet or sour , must be under the perfect control of the housekeeper . If a sample of milk will stand scalding or even boiling without curdling , it is usually fresh and in good condition for any use .

On the other hand , if it curdles by scalding , it is beyond control and it may or may not make good sour milk , h e in In I t depending on t bacteria work g . 1 48 THE S TO RY OF MILK

MILK F O R I N FANTS

C ’ ’ omparing cow s milk with mother s milk , it will be seen that the latter contains less protein , about the same percentage of fat and more carbohydrates than the former . A comparison may be made from the fol lowing table of average composition In round ﬁgures %

Milk Mine ral Wate r Prote in Fat sugar matters

Pe r Pe r Per ce nt cent c ent

’ Moth e r s Milk 87 4

C ow’s Milk 4

M k — ’ od ifying M il . Undiluted cow s milk is too rich

in protein and in salts for infants and , when fed with

out modiﬁcation , must be diluted with an equal amount

of water during the ﬁrst two or three months . Such dilu

1 50 TH E S TORY OF MILK

’ orer s eci e Mrs . R R p

’ e m k e e e te a t m i e as in Wh er cow s il , v n wh n dilu d , or p r ly od ﬁ d me ee th e m t e ma b e th e ho fashion , disagr s with infant , this ix ur y ° e % e a t m k t 1 F use d with good r sults h at two qu r s of il o 00 . Add e T et e t e e tw o Junk t abl s dissolv d in a abl spoonful of cold wat r . Whe n th e milk is conge al e d and pe rfe ctly solid draw through it backward and forward an ordinary four - tine d silve r fork ; this will

tw t e e - e e th e . S o ee e s parat curd train through hickn ss s of ch s cloth , saving th e whey as this is th e part you are to use ; ad d a pint of e e m ee e e m and wat r , a half ounc of sugar of ilk , thr ounc s of cr a h e e ma e e four ounc e s of th e whit e of egg . T whit s y b dropp d into t t th e e e th e to e e a quar fruit j ar , a pin of wh y add d , p scr w d on and th e jar thoroughly shake n until th e whit e s are well mixe d with th e whey ; then add them to th e remaining quantity and stand at e e a onc e in a ve ry cold plac e . This will b giv n in qu ntiti es from e in tt tw o to three ounc s an ordinary nursing bo le .

RECIPES

of the Nathan S traus Laboratories

F F m . . . ee a or ula by Dr A R Gr n ormula by Prof . A . J cobi for l st to 4th wee k % for 3 d to 7th month % ounc e s of 1 6 % C re am 1 8 ounc e s of Full Milk 3 Full Milk 1 8 B arl ey Wate r 1 9 Wate r 1 Cane Sugar 1 % ounc es Milk Sugar 20 grains of Tabl e Salt (l ess than 41 teaspoonful) This mixture ﬁlls 8 bottl es This mixture ﬁlls 6 bottles F F e ee e t 6 e . ee ach to contain 3 ounc es . d ach to con ain ounc s d

h a t. hours apart . 3 ours par

F F m P . eema or ula by rof R . G . r n ounce for 1 st to 3 d month % 1 1 % ounc e s of 1 6 % Cre am 3 Full Milk This mixture ﬁlls 6 b ottl es 1 3 e Fee 3 Wat r e ach to contain 3 ounc es . d

hours apart . MILK A S A FOOD 1 5 1

F H e Formula by Dr . A . . ss for 3 0 grains of Tabl e Salt (about 7th to 9th month t easpoonful) 22% ounc es of Full Milk This mixture ﬁlls 5 bottle s Oat B e e F or arl y ach to contain 6 ounc es . eed W e r a at r 3 % hou s part . Cane Sugar

F . F ee e % . m t 9th m ormula by Prof R G . r an Af r onth 2d 6th m % F e e m 8 e for to onth ull past uriz d ilk , ounc s F 4 1 8 ounc e s of ull Milk e ve ry hours . 1 6% Wate r 1 % Limewater Milk Sugar This mixture ﬁlls 6 bottl es Fee e ach to contain 6 ounces . d

3 hours apart .

When the modiﬁed milk can be obtained from a dairy laboratory where it is prepared with scientiﬁc care and accuracy , it is better to use it than to depend

- on home made preparations , and in many cases a doc ’ E tor s prescription may be necessary . ven if the modi ’ fi ed cow s milk is prepared so as to contain apparently the same proportion of the various groups of nutrients ’ as mother s milk , there may still be some essential i difference . For instance , the prote n in human milk ’ consists mainly of albumin , while that of cow s milk n is mostly casein . It is often a questio whether the individual baby can digest t—he casein without trouble . a A trifle of rennet ferment , fraction of a Junket — ’ Tablet , added to the modified cow s milk just before feeding may be beneficial to overcome that defect . A little limewater also is healthful as it neutralizes any acid that may develop in the mixture . For the par i r t cula needs of the individual baby , a competent doctor

should be asked to prescribe . 1 52 TH E S TORY OF MILK

MILK F OR GROWIN G CHILDREN

n When the child is big e ough to thrive on undiluted , m ’ un odiﬁed cow s milk , it should not only be allowed , but urged , to continue on a diet in which this , the best of all foods , is the most essential part . An excel lent form in w hich to feed milk to the growing child is E junket . aten slowly with a spoon as a pudding , it is exposed to the action of d igestion much better than milk swallowed by the glassful in a hurry and even if it is cold there is no danger of defective rennet action in the stomach because such action has already taken

place . Doctors still disagree as to the desirability of pas ” teuriz in P g milk for young children (see asteurization , C af hapter I) , some holding that the digestibility is

CHAPTER V

MILK COOKE RY

Milk should also be used a great deal more than It

. a n is by grown persons , not only as dri k but in the daily cookery . In some homes milk in some form is a part of every menu and the meals are more delicious , attractive and nourishing than the ordinary milkless diet , and are also less expensive , as the milk takes the C place of part of the meat . Dr . Graham Tusk of ornell

University , who represented the United States on the C % Interallied ouncil of Alimentation , says

No family of ﬁ v e should spend any money for meat ee m e ee a ed and until thr quarts of ilk hav b n purch s , this should b e done even though th e pric e of milk e should go to twenty c ents a quart. Absolut ly nothing in th e food line will keep children so healthy as their

daily supply of milk .

In cooking with milk it is well to remember % 1 . That , although milk is a liquid , it contains a large amount of solid food and of exceedingly nourish ing , palatable and easily digestible food , much more 1 3 than many vegetables or fruits . While milk has %

O f - solid matter , water melon has only turnips beets etc . When substituting milk for water , you add nourishment to the food and it is well to keep — in mind the ingredients , the amount of protein , fat ,

etc . , added in the form of milk , which may take the place of other similar ingredients in the combination . 1 54 MILK C O OKE RY 1 55

2 if . S That milk is even but lightly sour , or if some it —in i other acid is added to , the form of fruit , for n —it stance , is apt to curdle by scalding or boiling . The limi ts of a single chapter do not allow many n recipes to be given , but a few are furnished u der each i O f of the several k nds milk dishes , and a clever domestic science pupil or the ordinary good housekeeper and

‘ ni cook can easily add to these recipes indeﬁ tely , by following out the simple suggestions offered .

‘ u All meas rements are level .

S OUPS — Cre m u o - a S o ps . S called cream soups may be made O f with or without the addition meat stock . For example % Asparagus S oup

3 cups ve al or chicke n broth 41 cup ﬂour 1 lk 1 can asparagus qt . scalded mi 41 cup butt e r Salt and pe ppe r

t t k t t k Re e e a a a . o o tee s rv ips of sp r gus Add s al s cold s c , boil ﬁf n m e e e e e ke inut s , rub through si v , thick n with butt r and ﬂour coo d

e e ad d m e e . e e tog th r , ilk , tips , salt and p pp r If fr sh asparagus is us d , one m e e e er e cut bunch in s all pi c s , boil in as littl wat as will cov r , e t t f ta k k and ee a remov ough bi s o s l , add two cups stoc proc d as bove .

Cre am of Ce l ery S oup

3 cups veal or chicken broth Yolks 2 eggs 3 c elery cut in inch pi e c es cup cream 4 milk Salt and pepper

b t ie add k t te e . Ru e m Boil c el ery in broth ill nd r hrough s v , il , bring to th e boiling point and add egg yolks b eate n and diluted e m with cr a . 1 56 TH E S TORY OF MI LK

Spinach S oup

1 4 cups broth 4 cup butter 2 q ts . spinach ﬂour 3 cups boiling water Salt and pepper 2 milk

Wash th e spinach and cook thi rty minutes in boiling water to

te ee e . ne which aspoon soda has b n add d Drain and chop ﬁ .

k tte e t et e m k e ni . Add stoc and bu r and ﬂour cook d og h r , il and s aso ng

C n n auliﬂower , mushrooms , lettuce , stri g bea s , onions and other vegetables may be used for soups in the I n all o these reci es milk ma be substituted same way . f p y r h oc o t e st k. f The soups will be more nourishing , many like them better , and they are more easily prepared . If canned vegetables are used they may be added to the thickened milk , which should be made in the pro portions of one quart of milk to two tablespoons butter or substitute and two tablespoons ﬂour . One can of beans , peas , asparagus , or corn , may be added to three pints of thickened milk .

If fresh vegetables are used , they should be boiled in as little water as possible and this water added with

the vegetables to the hot , thickened milk . The addi tion of one—half to one cup of cream to these soups im

proves their taste but is not necessary . If the cream

is whipped and added j ust before serving , the appear

ance is also much improved . The vegetables may be

pressed through a sieve or not , as preferred . If the soup is to be served in cups it is better to do this or

chop the vegetables very ﬁne , but if the soup is to be served in soup plates it looks attractive and is more substantial if the vegetables are cut in inch pieces and

left in the soup . cornlet sou tomato All cooks are familiar with p ,

1 58 THE S TO RY O F MILK

Farina or Cre am of Wh e at S oup

3 pints milk 1 tablespoon butte r cup farina or cream of whe at 1 sugar

k n Scald milk and add c e real slowly . Coo o e hour and add butter and sugar and a spri nkling of nutmeg .

Milk Ch ow d ers

e are a e e e e i m k F r Chowd rs also v ry acc ptabl way of s rv ng il . o rich chowders th e proportions used are % Tw o cups of milk or of mi a e 1 e m e e and 1 lk and w t r , cup of potato s cut into s all pi c s pound F r e e fat of ﬁsh . o ﬂavoring add an onion fri d in two tabl spoons of

t e ut m k . W e e e m e ri d o fro salt por hil th s proportions ak a rich dish , e e e th e m e e e it it is possibl to r duc a ount of fish gr atly , to l av out e t e to use m e - e me c odfi sh n ir ly , s all portions of l ft ov r fish or so salt

ee e e e to t e . S e which has b n fr sh n d , or substi ut corn for it uch dish s ar a t e e a u r th e p la abl and of r asonably high nutritive v l e, p oviding e greater part of th e liquid used is milk .

% Similar, but less rich and thick , is

Milk S te w

f m k 2 e 1 q t. o il tabl spoonfuls of butter or bacon fat 1 cupful raw potatoes cut into 1 cupful of c odfish cut into small small pi e ce s pie ce s or just enough to flavor th e st ew So ak th e fish in luk ewarm wat e r until it is soft and th e salt re C th e e e e e m e . em ov d ook potato s in wat r until t nd r , drain th , add th e m lk codfish and to th e ad d th e i and , bring boiling point ; butter a and s lt to taste .

c od fish In place of the , fresh fish , clams , oysters , or a little chipped beef may be used . . Or the fish may be omitted and the soup made savory and palatable by v e e adding a few drops of onion j uice , or cheese or a g table cut into small pieces and cooked thoroughly . MILK COOKE RY 1 59

MILK C E RE ALS Most cereals are better cooked in milk than in water and those not familiar with this method have no idea of the many good dishes which they can thus easily C provide for their families . ereals so prepared make an especially good wholesome breakfast or supper for school children and the writer has never seen an adult , who , on a cold night , did not enj oy a dish of rice , or in corn meal , boiled milk and served with cream and M sugar for supper . ilk cereals must always be cooked in a double boiler and the milk must be hot when the cereal is added .

R e 1 3 m 2 ic cup to cups ilk , boil hours Cornmeal 1 4 1 to 2 hours Fine Hominy 1 4 1 hour Cream of Wheat 1 4 1 hour Farina 1 4 1 hour

Cre am of Wh e a or Farina Pud d in t g is also delicious .

It is prepared in the same way , but cup of cereal 1 only is added to quart hot milk . Just before serving , a teaspoonful of vanilla is added , and two beaten eggs are folded in . It is eaten with cream , or milk , and sugar , or with maple syrup .

LUN CHE ON A ND S UPPE R DI S HE S

Dishes prepared principally of milk , with the addition articu of either eggs , cheese , meat , or vegetables are p i larly adapted for luncheon or supper use . Here aga n a few standard recipes are given which can be varied to make any desired number of good , wholesome and delicious dishes . 1 60 TH E S TORY OF MILK — Cre ame d Dish e s The same sauce may be used to cold chicken lamb veal chi ed bee cream , , , pp f, and cold sh salmon lobster shrim s boiled or baked ﬁ , canned , or p , according to the following recipe %

Cre ame d Chick en

2 cups cold cooke d chicken c ut 1 % cups milk into dice 3 table spoons butte r Salt and pe pper 3 ﬂour

and ad d th B h e Melt butte r e ﬂour and milk . ring to t boiling

e ke . e point and add dic d chic n S ason with salt and peppe r .

Many grate a small onion into the sauce before add in d i rim ing the chicken . The writer does not favor sc inate use of onion as it tends to make all dishes taste alike . It seems better to use sometimes a little celery or celery salt , sometimes an onion , and again frequently ’ no ﬂavor but the chicken or meat or ﬁsh . One s cook ing is thus more distinctive and varied .

If the creamed mixture is turned into a baking dish , covered with buttered bread or cracker crumbs and browned in the oven , the result is even more pleasing . Such a sauce ﬂavored with cheese makes a good and very nutritious gravy to pour over cauliﬂower and cab bage or to serve with boiled rice or hominy or poured over toast .

CRE AME D V E GE TABLE S

In creaming vegetables the proportion is usually 1 2 P otatoes as cup of sauce to cups of vegetables . , ara us cau li ow er boiled onions beans carrots p g , ﬂ , , , and , beets eas or p are all delicious served in this way .

1 62 TH E S TORY OF MILK using two cups of ham and omitting the cheese al together .

MILK TOAS T A very good way to serve milk toast is to toast bread thoroughly and to pour hot milk over it at the time of serving . In serving milk toast in this way all the dishes should be kept very hot . A heavy earthenware pitcher may be used for serving the hot milk , as it retains heat for a long time .

E GGS POACHE D I N MILK E ggs are much better poached in milk than in water . If served on toast the hot milk may be poured on the egg if a soft toast is desired . If not , dip the eggs out of the milk with a perforated spoon and lay on the

toast in the usual way , adding salt and butter .

CHE E S E DI S HE S A S ME AT S UBS TITUTE S

M t ea is wholesome and relished by most persons ,

- yet it is not essential to a well balanced meal , and there

are many housekeepers who , for one reason or another, are interested in lessening the amount of meat which

they provide or to substitute some other foods for it . Cheese naturally suggests itself as a substitute for

meat , since it is rich in the same kinds of nutrients

which meat supplies , is a staple food with which every b e one is familiar , and is one which can used in a great

variety of ways . In substituting cheese for meat , pains S hould be taken to serve dishes which are relished by

members of the family . A number of recipes for dishes which are made with cheese follow % MILK COOKE RY 1 63

Ch e e se S oup

m k 2 e r 1 q t. il tabl spoons ﬂou te e ee e 1 onion gra d c . grat d ch s 1 blade mac e 2 egg yolks 2 tablespoons butte r 1 t e aspoon salt 41 teaspoon white pepper

S m k m n Me t tter e e a d e e . cald il , onion , ac p pp r pod l bu in sauc

e me e e . a m e s pan , bl nd ﬂour with lt d butt r Str in ilk and s a onings

u m e th e me . Re r and add gradually to ﬂo r ixtur , stirring all ti tu n d e e . e th e ee e an W e m h , to doubl boil r to cook h n cr a y , add c s s—alt e e e T e e e e e p pp r , stirring until cheese is melt d . h n pour ov r w ll b at n

e lk i all hi e e . gg yo s , stirr ng th e time . Whip until frot ng and s rv

D elmonic o Potatoe s

Arrange creamed potato es and grat ed ch eese in alte rnate layers .

Cover with buttered crumbs and bake till crumbs are brown .

S tuffe d Potato e s with Ch e e s e

Split h ot baked potato es l engthwise and remove contents without Put e . m injuring skin of potato potato through ric r or ash , add salt and peppe r to tast e and e nough hot milk to make of prop er consist l B e th . S e . e t e e ncy a until light , r ﬁll skin , piling up lightly prink thickly with grate d cheese and rehe at in oven until cheese is melted l a and a de ic te brown .

Macaroni w ith Ch e e se

1 cup macaroni 1 cup grat e d ch eese 2 e e 1 e e e a ke qts . boiling salt d wat r cup butt r d br ad or cr c r 2 cups whit e sauce crumbs

k ni n - C k ate Brea macaro into o e inch pi ec es . oo in boiling w r m e e e l e e . e until t nd r (If acaroni is put in a wir bask t in k ttl , it wil h t t e ett e . a a not stick o k l ) Dr in and run cold w ter through it .

Make sauce % 2 tablespoons butt er 1 te aspoon salt 2 ﬂour 2 cups milk

C e t r m an k Add cheese and mac aroni . ov r wi h c u bs d b a e until c rumbs are brown . 1 64 TH E S TORY OF MILK

Rice Bake d w ith Ch e e se

1 cup ric e Milk te e B e e m e 2 qts . boiling sal d wat r utt r d cru bs (br ad or e ee e e lb . grat d ch s crack r)

e to e . W e te e e tt m Add ric boiling wat r h n nd r drain , cov r bo o e e e e ee e i of butt r d baking dish , sprinkl with grat d ch s and a l ttle e e e e ee e paprika . Add alt rnat lay rs of ric and ch s until dish is full . C e Add milk ne arly to ﬁll dish . ov r with crumbs and b ake until ar milk is absorb ed and crumbs e brown .

Ch e e se S ouﬁl e w ith B re ad Crumb s

1 cup scalde d milk 1 tablespoon butt e r 1 1 e e m e cup soft , stal br ad cru bs 4 t aspoon salt 1 e c ut m 2 e . m ee 4 lb ild ch s , in s all gg yolks pie c es 2 egg whites

k ee e me te t Mix m e m e a t. il , br ad cru bs , ch s , l d but r and s l Add C ut e yolk s of e ggs be ate n until l emon colore d . and fold in whit s of P o tte e ki and k eggs b e ate n until stiff . our int a bu r d ba ng dish ba e twe nty minutes in a moderate ove n .

Ch e e s e S ouﬁi e

2 tabl espoons butte r Few grains caye nne 3 ﬂour cup grat e d cheese cup scalded milk Yolks of 3 e ggs t e aspoon salt Whites of 3 eggs

Me t th e tte a au e a add th e mix e add l bu r in s c p n , ﬂour and w ll ; e m em e scald d ilk gradually and se asonings ; cook two minutes . R ov

t e ee e e - e e l e pan to back of s ov and add ch s and w ll b at n yo ks of ggs . h Set e e m e . W e t e e pan wh r ixtur will cool h n cold , add whit s of T e e k e ggs be at en until stiff and dry . urn into a butt r d ba ing dish e e t m te e Se e th e m m and bak tw n y inu s in a slow ov n . rv o ent it e m th e e com s fro ov n .

1 66 TH E S TORY OF MILK th e cheese may b e adde d to th e white sauc e and only th e seasoned

crumbs put on th e top .

B oston Roast

te e 1 can kidney b e ans or same Mlb . gra d ch ese amount of cooke d be ans Bread crumbs

Mash b eans or put them through a me at grinder . Add th e cheese and sufﬁci e nt bre ad crumbs to make th e mixture stiff e nough to b e e e e formed into a roll . Plac in butt r d baking pan and bake in mod

B e e e one - e erate e . ov n ast fr qu ntly with half cup hot wat r , in which S e e th e m n e t e me e . e o e tabl spoon bu t r is lt d rv roast with to ato sauc . e e few e tt e e e ni If d sir d , a drops of onion j uic or a li l ﬁn ly chopp d o on may b e adde d to ﬂavor this dish .

Camouﬂ age d Cab b age

Remove th e he art from a small cabbage cut or chop th e remainde r e e e e e e m into half inch pi c s , boil in salt d wat r xactly tw nty inute s F r ne t e a k and drain . o o pin of this cook d cabb ge ma e a sauc e of 2 tabl espoons butter 2 ﬂour Mcup milk Mcup ch eese and when thoroughly bl ende d add th e cabbage ; e e e Th cov r with butt r d crumbs and bake twenty minute s . e result a i a is good dish for suppe r or luncheon and t is well n med .

CHE E S E SALADS

Ch e e s e and Pimento S alad

St e me e m ee e cut t e e uff cann d pi ntos with cr a ch s , in o slic s , plac e e e e e e on l ttuc l av s and s rv with mayonnaise dressing .

Ch e e s e and Cel e ry S al ad

Sel ect c el e ry stalks with dee p grooves in them ; wash and dry on i e e . M x m e m ee e t cl an tow l a s all cr a ch s with a bit of sal , and M e r F e e e cup ﬁn ly choppe d nuts (pe cans a e best) . ill groov s in c l ry s lk th e ee e e e a to e e cut ta with ch s mixtur and chill . Wh n re dy s rv MILK C O O KE RY 1 6 7

alk t ma e e i a Serv e ett e ea e st s in o s ll pi c s w th sh rp knife . on l uc l v s n with French dressi g . For e t di it ﬁll te e e e a pl asan ad tion to fru salad , nd r c l ry stalks

e r ee e one e e . with roqu fo t ch s , and lay or two on ach plat of salad

Peppe r and Ch e e se S al ad

S a it Remove top and seeds from a sweet green pepper . c ld with l e ten e i e e mi . M x boi ing wat r , l tting it stand in wat r about nut s e m ee e wi e e e soft cr a ch s th chopp d nuts , or with tiny cub s of cook d e e e e i m e e in i i e b ts and ﬁll p pp r w th this ixtur ; chill w ll , cut th n sl c s with sharp knife and serve on b ed of head lettuc e with French dressing . Apple s can also b e use d (w ith cheese and nuts) by removing core k Without brea ing th e apple .

COTTAGE CHE E S E

(See also under the chapter on Cheese)

All that has been said of cheese as a valuable food and as a substitute for meat , applies equally to cottage ns cheese and it is so easily prepared , inexpe ive and generally relished that it should be used much more freely than it is . The following recipes are only a few of the many t tha might be given , but the careful cook should evolve other combinations equally attrac tive .

Cottage Ch e e se b y G ov ernment M e th od

(From Food Admini stration Bull etin)

F r e e m me eme b e div e ni 1 . o U t , gallon l ss r a ounts , asur nts to id d accordingly . ee m m l e m l k Take 1 gallon of sw t ski i k ; add Mcup of cl an , sour i R e th e em e e ater to 75 and stir as it is put in . ais t p ratur in hot w 1 68 TH E S TORY O F MILK

e Fa en e t m ee t e m me e . Re o e r a d gr s hr h i , using a dairy h r o t r v f om he t and place wh ere it is to remain until set. Add of a junket tabl et thoroughly dissolve d in a tabl espoon of cold wate r ; stir while C e and 1 2 1 adding . ov r with cloth leave for to 6 hours in even F d em e a e 75 e ee en e t. en t t p r tur , about d gr s ahr h i At of his period th e re should b e a slight whey on th e top and when poure d out th e

e e S . tt not curd should cl av harply Drain through co on cloth ,

- 1 2 ee e t . W e e ee e ch s clo h h n wh y has b n drain d out , work in or ea t to th e ee e to t te 1 to 2 t spoons of sal ch s , according as ; M pounds b l of chee se should e obtained from a ga lon of milk . For tabl e use it is advisable to work in 1 or 2 tablespoons of cream F us th e . or e not e e to pound in cooking , this is n c ssary . One may also make cottage ch eese of freshly soure d milk by m e n e e e m e s si ply h ati g it in a doubl boil r till wh y for s , l tting it tand

e n ee e - an hour and th n tur ing it into a ch s cloth bag to drain . To th e me ad d eet e m and t t dry curd for d sw or sour cr a sal o taste . Wh en made in this way care must b e take n that th e milk is freshly — soure d ii it is old it will have a bitter taste and th e cheese will not b e good .

Cottage Ch e e se S and wich e s

T l e r e h e ea e e hin s ic s of y , brown or w it br d , butt r d , with ﬁllings e ee e m e m m e iment es of cottag ch s in co bination with j lly , ar alad , p o , a e are l ettuce or mayonn is all good .

Cottage Ch e e se Club S andwich e s

T t l e e am e ea it utter oas s ic s of br ad , cut di ond shap and spr d w h b and cottage ch ee se or cottage cheese alone and put toge th er with any one of th e following combinations % T m e e and m e e o ato , l ttuc ayonnais dr ssing . T e h am e m e hin slic s of spr ad with ustard and l ttuc e . S e e e F e e . lic d , tart appl , chopp d nuts and drops of r nch dr ssing e Slice d orange and mayonnais . e o h ot e k Slic d Spanish nion , a fri ed gg sprin le d with Worc ester e shire sauc . T e oi m t ke ettu e and ma na e hin slic s to a o , bacon , chic n , l c yon is dressing .

1 70 TH E S TORY OF MILK

D ev onshire Dainty

Serve on indi v idual plate s M cup cottage cheese to which h as e 2 t e e eam e been add d abl spoonfuls whipp d cr (swe t or sour) . Over a this pour Mcup currant j m . ke Pa a t e e e ete e . ss s l in s or oth r dry , unsw n d crac rs

MILK BRE AD S A ND BI S CUITS

Park e r H ous e Rolls

2 cups sc alded milk (skim) 1 t e aspoon salt 3 tabl espoons butt e r 1 ye ast cake dissolve d in M c up lukewarm water

e e t te me t tte m e all e e ts Dissolv y as in wa r , l bu r , co bin ingr di n

3 e . Le e e . t xc pt ﬂour Add cups ﬂour gradually , b ating vigorously

‘ kn a in 2 e rise till light ; c ut down and e d M cups ﬂour . Cov r and k l t e ee me . R k allow o ris until thr ti s original bul ol M inch thic .

Cut S e wi e e . Put e e , pr ad half th butt r and fold ov r in butt r d tins B a h 1 e 1 a a t. e e ot e 5 to to ris , placing inch p r ak wh n light in ov n 2 0 minute s . Popov ers

1 cup ﬂour 2 e ggs Mt e aspoon salt Mt e aspoon melte d butter 1 cup milk

B at t a e a th e lk e e . e t m ggs horoughly Add gr dually , whil b ing , i

ee e . e e t tw o and ﬂour , to which salt has b n add d Add butt r and b a Put e minute s with Dove r egg b e at e r . a half t aspoon of butter in e F f ter and ak hissing hot iron g m pans . ill hal with bat b e thirty e e e mme S e . minutes in a hot ov n . rv i diat ly

Boston Nut Bre ad

Mcup molasse s 1 teaspoon salt 1 t e aspoon soda Mcup sugar 2 cups sour milk 1 cup choppe d nuts 2 cups graham ﬂour 1 Mcups white ﬂour

h m e t th e k Mix and sift all t e dry ingre di e nts . Add olass s o mil th e e th nd m e m . e t a co bin this gradually with dry at rials Add nu s . MILK C O O KE RY 1 7 1

H ak e e er let t one alf ﬁll b ing powd r cans , with oil d cov , and s and

B a e - l r . t ee e ha f hou k hr quart rs of an hour in moderat e ove n .

S our Milk Bis cuit

r 2 e 1 q t. ﬂou tabl spoons butt er 1 te aspoon soda Sour milk to moiste n 1 t e aspoon salt (about 1 Mcups) 1 teaspoon sugar

S d r e e t t et e cut tte k e m lk ift y ingr di n s og h r , in bu r with nif , add i e f k to m . R a e Se e ak a sti f dough oll out thin and b in hot oven . rv with honey or maple syrup .

Ginge rb re ad

4 tabl espoons butte r 1 Mcups ﬂour Mcup sugar , Mt e aspoon soda 1 egg 1 t e aspoon ginge r M c up molasse s 1 te aspoon cinnamon 2 teaspo ons cocoa M t e aspoon salt Mcup sour milk 1 t e aspoon allspic e

Mix e S e t and t e e . e e ift ﬂour and spic s , sal soda og th r oth r ingr di nts th e e e B e m e a in ord r giv n and combine mixture s . ak in od r te ove n

3 0 mi nutes . S our Milk Wafﬂ e s

1 egg 1 tabl espoon butte r

‘ 1 cup sour milk 1 t easpoon soda 1 cup ﬂour Mte aspoon salt

B e t e t m e a gg horoughly , add sour ilk , ﬂour and salt . Dissolv soda

e e m e . B e in M tabl spoon cold wat r . Add to ixtur at thoroughly . C k e a e e e i oo on oil d , hot w fﬂ iron and s rv hot w th maple syrup .

‘ S w e e t Milk Waﬁl e s

2 cups ﬂour Yolks 2 eggs 3 te aspoons baking powder Whit es 2 e ggs M teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons butte r 1 M cups milk

Mix e e t m e e k e and sift dry ingr di n s , add ilk , b at n yol s , butt r e e e f egg whit s b at n sti f . 1 72 TH E S TORY OF MILK

B utte rmilk Grid dl e Cak e s

2 mmbuttermilk 1 te aspoon soda 2 cups ﬂour 1 egg beate n

ix M in order give n .

Sw e e t Milk Grid dl e Cake s

1 egg beaten 3 te aspoons baking powd er and 2 cups milk Mte aspoon salt 3 cups ﬂour S ifte d with 2 tablespoons melted butte r

ix e e M in ord r giv n .

B oston B row n Bre ad

1 cup whole wheat ﬂour 1 teaspoon salt 2 cups graham ﬂour 2 cups sour milk 1 te aspoon soda Mcup molasse s

ix i h e m k M d r e e t t . M x t m as e y ingr di n s horoughly sour il and ol s s . T e St e e e . e e ir in dry ingr di nts , b ating thoroughly urn into w ll butt r d m ee n e e e . pound baki g powd r cans . Cov r tightly and st a thr hours Take m and e r t c an b e a e to th e fro can slic , Mcup aisins or nu s dd d m t e e e dough ix ur , if d sir d .

DE S S E RTS

n m For desserts the u ber of custards , creams and n n puddi gs made with milk is legio , and they are so well known and can be S O easily varied that only a few stock recipes need be given .

B oil e d Custard

2 cups scalded milk te aspoon salt Yolks 2 eggs Mt e aspoon vanilla Mcup sugar

B e e n e at ggs slightly , add sugar and salt ; stir consta tly whil adding m C e e e n l gradually hot ilk . ook in doubl boil r , continu stirri g unti

1 74 TH E S TO RY OF MILK

Bak e d A e outh ern t e ppl , S S yl

4 eggs cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla

Pare and core apple s that are not too sour to hold their shape e e Put a k e th e wh n bak d . in pudding dish , sprin l half cupful of e t em e e e th e e sugar ov r and around h , also ﬁlling plac wh r cor was k u Put e e . Rem e e ta en o t. in ov n and bak ov from ov n and pour a t e th e m m e m e t % B e t th e e e round h m ilk ixtur ad hus a ggs w ll , B e add e m t . sugar and b at again , add ilk , sal and vanilla ak slowly

- u until a knife blade will come o t cl e an afte r inse rtion in th e custard . efv e h ot t t e a T an S or cold , with or wi hou whipp d cre m. his is esp e ciall f r e y good dessert o childr n .

Coffe e Custard

2 cups milk M cup sugar 1 cup strong coffee t e aspoon salt 3 eggs Mt e aspoon vanilla MILK COOKE RY 1 75

B e t e m lk f e a e . a ggs slightly ; add sugar , salt , vanill , i and co f S e e m set e train into butt r d individual olds , in pan of hot wat r e t r and bak un il ﬁ m.

Carame l Custard

4 cups scalde d milk 1 t e aspoon vanilla 5 eggs Mcup sugar Mt e aspoon salt

Put me ette an t t e h ot art sugar in o l p , stirring cons an ly ov r p of range until melt e d to a syrup of light brown color . Add gradually to m e e mi e e e ilk , b ing car ful that lk do s not bubbl up and go ov r , a as is liabl e on account of high t emp erature of sug r . As soon as e e m m e e l sugar is m lt d in ilk , add ixtur gradually to ggs s ightly

e e e t e e m . B ake b at n , add salt and ﬂavoring , th n strain in bu t r d old

t hi and er e it a ame a e . as cus ard . C ll s v w h c r l s uc

Ric e Pudding

Mt easpoon salt e tme or t aspoon ground nu g , n m e cin a on , or grat d rind of Mof a l emon

e t mix th e e e t ke ee Wash th e ric horoughly , ingr di n s and ba thr

er e t t. hours or more in a v y slow ov n , s irring occasionally at ﬁrs

Tapioc a Custard

Add to th e list of ingredi ents for boil ed custard M cup of pearl th e e it tapioca . Soak tapioca in wat r for an hour or two , drain , P ee e and cook in th e milk until it is transparent. roc d as for boil d custard .

GE N E RAL RE CIPE F O R CE REAL- MILK PUDDINGS m Bread and rice puddings , ade with milk and eggs , M are familiar to all cooks . ade without eggs , the fol lowing will be found suggestive % 1 76 TH E S TORY OF MILK

k a e e e e For a quart of mil allow of cup of any coars c r al (ric , me e e me e corn al , crack d wh at , oat al or barl y) ; add of a cup of e m e e m e te brown , whit or apl sugar , syrup , hon y or olass s ; M aspoon s alt ; t e aspoon S pice s Th e ﬂavoring may b e omitte d whe n honey or molasses is used .

i The above recipe makes quite a large pudd ng . It s is often convenient to make a maller one , and enough ’ for a child s dinner can be made in the double boiler , allowin g two level or one rounding tablespoon of cereal to a cup of salted and ﬂavored milk . Cook an hour and sweeten S lightly .

These puddings , if made thin , may be poured over stewed prunes or other cooked fruits , and are a good and economical substitute for the cream or soft custard usually used for that purpose . A very O ld recipe for a baked corn pudding has re

’ n c e tly been given to the author .

Indian M e al Custard

1 eet m e h ot pt. sw ilk , wh n add slowly Mcup cornme al Pinch salt Mteaspoon e ach cinnamon and ginger Sugar to taste 1 tablespoon molasses B 5 m e oil inut s , and add 2 b eate n eggs m 1 pt . ilk

Bak a n - a t set e bout o e h lf hour or ill .

1 78 TH E S TO RY O F MILK

l . i a add th e a . R e m d n ater u and ﬂ voring ins o cold w , dr in , po r in t th e ke m t e a er e e t e par of coo d ix ur , add lay of ch rri s and con inu

ic . a e until mold is ﬁll ed . Set on e to chill M y b e serv d in tall

e a e m e ﬂ at e te . glass s , as illustr t d , or un old d on a s rving plat r

Caramel Rice

6 cups milk 1 cup ric e 1 M cups granulated sugar 1 t e aspoon salt 2 slightly be ate n eggs Grate d rind of half an orange

k e t th e e a m k t et e a Coo ric , sal , quart r cup of sug r and il og h r in te e e e e e . em e m ﬁ re a doubl boil r until ric is t nd r R ov fro , add gr d e te e ix rind and b a n ggs and m well . Put th e cup of sugar in a small sauc epan ove r th e ﬁ re and stir

t t e n i . H e a m e cons an ly until it is a gold n brow l quid av old h ating , and e e h ot th e it t th e m t wh n v ry pour liquid in , urning old so tha T th e e t th e m set a an all parts are coated . urn ric in o old and it in p te a h ot e 20 m te a th e m e e th e of wa r in ov n for inu s , h ving old cov r d e ntire time . em e m e let t t unm and ser e it R ov fro ov n , s and un il cold , old v w h th e c aramel sauce th at is in th e mold .

Milk Cre am

1 Mcups h ot milk Mcup cold milk cup granulate d sugar 3 e ggs Mounce granulate d gelatine 1 teaspoon vanilla Pinch of salt

k a e th Heat e Soa gel tin in e cold milk for 1 0 minute s . balanc of m k e e t e te k t il in a doubl boil r , add sal , sugar and b a n yol s , s irring

T e e e M . Pr par d for h e S tory of ilk by A Louis Andrea . MILK COOKE RY 1 79

sta t . C k t m t e t th e em e m ﬁre con n ly oo un il ix ur coa s spoon , r ov fro , add ke e e t soa d g latin and stir un il dissolved . Th en set aside to

Milk cre am cool and w he n beginning to thicken ad d fl avoring and mix in lightly th e e e e stiffly b at n whit s . R n e a m te m t e set i s old in cold wa r , drain , pour in ix ur and in a fi e un rm. l cold plac til Unrno d and serve plain or with thin cream.

Plain Junk et

° H e t r m u t k e arm to e ee 1 00 F . Re at a qua of ilk n il lu w , not xc d m e m ﬁre eete and a t ta te a a an ov fro ; sw n ﬂ vor o s , using v nill or y

Plain junk et

e ne J nk e Ta e e othe r desired ﬂavor . Dissolv o u t bl t in cold wat r and P a stir th e solution quickly into th e lukewarm milk . our immedi tely 1 80 TH E S TORY O F MILK

to a e e e e e th e ke in individu l s rving dish s , sh rb t glass s , bowls or li , “ ” l e and et stand wa rm until thicke ne d . Wh n set remove to ice box or othe r cool place without stirring and let stand until se rv ing S e e e ea t me . m k e tme i rv with or without whipp d cr , a sprin l of nu g ,

r fe w e e th e e tc . o a strawb rri s on top ,

Ch ocolate Junket

S eete u rt m k c u a Me t one w n a q a of il with half a p of sug r . l e e e u squar of chocolat or two tabl spoonf ls of cocoa , add half a cup h n e e r h of t e milk and boil o e minute . R mov from ﬁ e and add t e rem e th e m m b e e e nf aind r of ilk , which ust not boil d , and a t aspoo ul P th e m e l b e e w m . rm of vanilla robably ixtur wi l luk ar , if not , wa T e e e it . S e J e until is tir in dissolv d unk t abl t , pour at onc into s rving h e e set. e e w e dish s and l eave undisturb d until C ill and s rv . If hipp d cre am sweete ne d and ﬂavore d with v anilla is heape d upon the C e nke e e m t a v e e e t ob hocolat Ju t wh n s rving , a ost at r cti d ss r is ained and a e e e ke e i u ice cr a t , Chocol t Junk t froz n ma s a d l cio s e m.

Coffe e Junke t

One - e f ee a e to ts half cup v ry strong co f , Mcup sug r , add d pin

e . e T of he ate d milk . Dissolv Add your Junk t able t and ﬁnish as

J n e . Se e h e ordinary u k t rv wit cr am.

An endless variety of Junkets can be made by vary ing ﬂavor and color , by adding fruit or preserves , etc . , in and the sick room various medicines or stimulants , peptone , wine , etc . , may conveniently be administered as an ingredient in the pudding .

Prepare d Junk e t

Prepared Junket in which all the ingredients are found except the milk is on the market in the form of “ ” n h a powder called Nes a . It is put up in various ﬂavors and is easily and quickly made when milk is at a dispos l .

1 82 TH E S TORY OF MILK

S e one e t a ﬁne tir w ll and cook hour ; th n rub hrough si eve . Thin with more hot milk and serve .

Kumyss (see also Chapter II)

’ cake Fleischman s ye ast 1 tabl e spoon wate r 1 M table spoons sugar 1 quart milk

Ma e r th e a and e and k k a thin sy up of sug r wat r coo one minute . e th e e tw e u e a Soft n y ast in o tabl spoons of l k w rm milk . He at th e m lk k e a m ad d e e e i until lu w r , oth r ingr di nts and shake . Put in e te e e e t e e ston , s ril bottl s , plac in an upright position for w lv hours , ° at 70 (kitchen he at) ; th e n turn on side and l e ave at a t empe rature ° ea u of 50 (lowe r part of ic e box) . R dy for se afte r th e ﬁrst twenty e ke e e th e e it ke th four hours ; oft n pt s v ral days , but long r is pt e less It k k t k a a a a e . e m rea p l t bl it is should loo li hic , fo y c m.

Egg Milk Sh ake

B k th e e a a e a and ea u a re a gg into l rg gl ss b t well . Add s g r and e me an a coupl of drops of vanilla or a dust of nut g d be at again . T e e F a m . m k ill up gl ss with rich ilk his ak s a v ry nourishing drin .

Buttermilk S h ak e

1 cup buttermilk Few drops l emon extract 1 egg Salt Sugar

B eak e to o eat th e eate add u a r gg in b wl , b oroughly with gg b r , s g r , B t and e m . e ﬂavoring , a tiny pinch of sal butt r ilk at again till T t . light and foamy . urn in o glass

B utte rmilk Le monad e A variation may be made from ordinary buttermilk “ B by the addition of lemon juice and sugar . utter ” milk lemonade usually requires the juice of three MILK COOKE RY 1 83

lemons to one quart of buttermilk . The quantity of lemon and sugar , however , should be varied to suit O f the taste the individual . The beverage is delight n ful and is especially refreshi g on a hot summer day . One may also use the juice of two oranges and one n lemon to one quart of buttermilk , i stead of the lemons alone . Many people like the clear butterm ilk slightly sweetened with a few grains of salt added .

Ch oc olate

1 Msquares chocolate 1 cup boiling wate r 4 tabl espoons sugar 3 cups milk Few grains salt Mt easpoon vanilla

a Scald milk . Melt chocolate in small saucepan and gr dually li e ee e e . W e m m add boi ng wat r h n s ooth add to scald d ilk , sw t n and i M e e e e and e e add salt and van lla . ill with Dov r gg b at r , s rv , putting t a i e e m e a large e spoon of wh pp d cr a on ach cup .

Cocoa

Mcup cocoa 1 cup water M cup sugar 3 cups milk Few grains salt M teaspoon vanilla

ix u ate t t m k e ea e M cocoa and s gar , add w r and s ir in o il alr ady h t d

1 e . Se e e . 5 m in double boil r Cook inut s , add vanilla and salt rv w th e e 1 with whippe d cream. A famous cook kno n to writ r adds t easpoon cornstarch dissolved in 1 table spoon cold water to th e a a h e cocoa whe n ne arly re ady for th e t bl e . It dds to t apparent richness of th e beverage . MISCELLANEOUS SUGGESTIONS

t e m ut th e e e e 1 . A abl spoonful of ilk p in pan b for frying ggs will keep them t ende r . 2 C e ke t e me t tte m k kee . ov rin—g cold chic n or o h r a with bu r il will p t e m e t f e th e mea e e t it for w nty four hours or or , withou a f cting t xc p

to make it more tende r . ic e e ke t 3 . Custards and cr am p too long in a warm weather m y cause ptomaine poisoning . ee m e e t t ut 4 . K p ilk cov r d o shu o ﬂavors

from other food . M k th e n b 5 . il warm from cow should ot e

kept in a closed rec eptacl e . ni 6 . Da sh cooks soak a pie ce of veal in k m m er i t e e to s i ilk ov n gh b for roasting it ,

improve th e ﬂavor . a 7 . Slic ed h m covere d with milk and bake d in a moderate o ven for an hour has delicate

ﬂavor and is always tende r .

TH E THE RMOME TE R

In the United States and Canada ' ’ as well as in England Fahrenheits thermometer is generally used ac cording to which water freezes at 3 2 ° and boils at 2 1 2 ° at ordinary air 1 80 pressure , leaving degrees between

the freezing and the boiling point . Dairy and house hold In some countries in Europe Reau thermomete rs mur ’s thermometer is used with 0° for ° the freezing point and 80 for boiling . In France and C for scientiﬁc work in all countries , however , the elcius or Centigrade system is employed for measuring heat 1 84

TH E S TORY O F MILK

1 bushel 4 pe cks 3 552 he ctolite r 1 he ctoliter bushels

1 2 2 l . S . 8 u e 1 c U gallon o nc s 3 b . inche s 1 Impe rial gallon (English and Canadian) 1 60 ounc es 277

cb . in .

6 U . S . gallons 5 Impe rial gallons

1 gallon of water weigh s pounds 1 gallon of milk we ighs pounds A 40 qu art can of milk 86 pounds

Approximate Household Weights and Measures

4 saltspoonful s 1 te aspoonful 3 ﬂat teaspoonfuls 1 he aping teaspoonful 1 heaping tabl espoonful of granulate d sugar ne arly 1 ounce 1 rounded tabl espoonful of butte r 1 ounce 2 ordinary cups of granulate d sugar 1 pound 3 ordinary cups of wh e at ﬂour 1 pound 1 pound of granulated sugar 1 pint

4 fl at t e aspoonfuls of liquid 1 fl at tabl e spoonful Mfluid ounc e 4 large tablespoonfuls 1 ordinary wine glass 2 fluid ounc es 1 pint 2 cups or glasse s 1 a 8 cup or gl ss fluid ounc es . BIB LI OGRAPHY

W . e C ee e Mak e C m O . h s ing ; John D ck r , olu bus ,

H - i Th M e M . . R e M tﬂin B e Co . t ilk %u stion ; J os nau , oughton , os on . Th e Manufacture of Cheese of th e Che ddar Type from Pasteuriz ed

T . B B L . S mm . 1 B M . e 65 re ilk ; J a is and A ruhn , ull tin , u au t C . nim W . of A al Industry , ashing on , D

i G e C e W . Me L . N t Da ry aboratory uid ; harl s lick , D Van os rand

New C . Company , York ity F l H me me F . W . W W e andbook for ar rs and Dairy n ; ol , John il y New S C . ons , York ity

P . H F Te M . a F E . W . W sting ilk and Its roducts ; rrington and oll , B C m M Wis Me . ndota ook o pany , adison , ’ B F me C e M . C e E . N e ar rs l an ilk ook ; Dr harl s orth , John Wil y

S New . ons , York ll st o Oste rod uktion G . E b re c h t Nord isk Forla C e h e O g p ; , g , op n ag n ,

D enmark .

L . B e N . R e M is O e W . utlin s of Dairy act riology ; uss ll , adison ,

- H . nra B B e Ma i . M d U e B N C o Co . ew A in utt r k ng ; J , rn r arry , York . — H . M nrad B B C C ee e M . o U e Co . New A in h s aking ; J , rn r arry ,

York . C em r He r R m C e G ﬁ and Dairy h ist y ; n y Droop ich ond , harl s rif n

L . C m Ltd . o pany , , ondon

nd m . km m M N e a C C M . ilk , its atur o position ; Ai an , Ada s and

C e B L . harl s lack , ondon

H . H Th e M m . New . P . W Co Milk and Its roducts ; ing , ac illan , York

. . cKa Principl e s and Practice of Butt e rmaking ; G L M y and C .

L e W e S New . ars n , John il y ons , York M L e e e . V an e . Sci ence and Practic e of Ch s aking ; L . Slyk and Chas C m New O e . . P A ublow , rang Judd o pany , York l ’ H . . C B aki B P . st n s n e W o So Co . Agricultural act riology ; onn , ,

Philadelphia . F e F L e m M C e . . e e e Crea ing ilk by ntrifugal orc ; J D r d riks n , ittl

F N . . alls , Y BIBLIOGRAPHY

mm Se e th e M k e t S a Th Ma Th e Co on ns of il %u s ion ; John p rgo , e c

C m New . millan o pany , York

H a X . a a . W E e r P Practical D iry usb ndry ; A ill rd , xc lsio ublishing

H e New . ous , York

i l i - s B akter e e C e e . Maelkeri o og ; Orla J n n , op nhag n i ru et nma k B er ar B C e a Maelker b g i Da r , nh d oggild , op nh gen .

- F k n N me . . e e e C e e e eriv aese et nh . M j i ord A rika ; J D r d ri s n , op ag n H Me e Ma e M . i G s . Modern Dairy uid ; artin y r , dison , W ia L Aud L r F . P ur u e t eb c i La L e e . o o o C e P . ait ri ; A , ibrairi , , aris

t C a a . . k e h e R . r T Dairying Indus ry in an d ; J A uddic , D pt of Ag i

e O Ca a . cultur , ttawa , nad H H . ea a B na r e r W m T t . Ca dian Dai y ing ; n y D n , illi riggs , oron o B C e e . La e a e B e a r . Th e usin ss of D i ying ; lar nc n , Or ng Judd Co ,

New York . B k P a e and e tte m C . . Or e %u stions Answ rs on u r a ing ; has A ublow , ng

m New . Judd Co pany , York ’ L e E Me k . P t m h e P e G P . S T rolongation of if ; li tchni off , u na s ons ,

New York . ’ P t a B L L e L M . a . P h e . m T acillus of ong if ; oudon Dougl s , G u n s

S New . ons , York Th e B B tte E Se G t e Th e M m a C o. ook of u r ; dward wall u hri , ac ill n , w Ne York . h e C a e and Fee C i e L Em H T . me M . D r ding of h ldr n ; tt olt, . , Co et . D . Appl on

Printed in th e United States of America

The Book of lc e Cre am

B A E I Y W LT R N . F SK

Cloth , 1 2 mo

This b ook is int e nd ed to aid th e stu dent and the c omme rc i al manufac tu re r in b e tt e r underst anding

f - m the prin c ipl es o making and hand ling ic e c re a .

I is n ot ma end e d as a e c e - b oo al t pri rily int r ip k ,

ou m n r th gh a y re c ipe s a e in clud ed in th e t ext .

Th e first fiv e c hapt e rs c on si s t in a ge n e ral d is c ussion of th e mat e rial s use d in th e manufac ture of ic e - c re am as w e ll as th e st abiliz e rs and fill ers Th and fl av oring mat e rial s . e n e xt c hap t e r d e als

h th e c ss ﬁ c o of ic e - c ms and h e e th e wit la i ati n rea , r

Th u m n f re c ipe s are giv e n . e eq ip ent a d re rigera

o are h e ex d e c ha e fol ti n t n plaine in a sep arat pt r , l ow ed by three c h apt e rs d e vot e d to th e ac tual

n f i - m maki g o c e c re a .

Th c onc ud es are en u h e l ing p ag t—ak p wit an analysis of th e q ualitie s of ic e c re am and of th e

b a c t e riol ogy of its manufac ture . Suc h a d i scus si on S hould b e useful b oth to th e stud e nt In th e

- m nd h e o e ss e ma f c l ass roo a t pr gr iv nu a c ture r .

TH E MACM ILLAN COM PANY — Pub lish ers 64 66 Fifth Avenue New York — TH E RURAL TE X T B O O K S E R IE S

E EDITED BY L. H. BAIL Y

T BY E. S . GU HRIE

rofe sso th e air D e artme t N e w York S tate olle e of P r in D y p n , C g r ultu re or e ll v e rs t Ag ic , C n Uni i y

Cl ot I z ma h , ,

A practic al d isc ussion of th e g e n e ral c h arac teristic s of b u e r and of all of th e ro e ms c onne c e d w t its tt , p bl t i h man u ac ure and marke n o e e r w a b r e h is f t ti g , t g th ith i f

r f h r u mon th e to c s c on s d e re d are to y o t e p od c t . A g pi i th e history of b utte r ; c omposition and f ood v al ue of b utte r ; c l e an sing an d c are of d airy ute nsil s ; c are of milk and c re am ; c re am s e paration ; g rad ing milk and c re am and ne utraliz i ng ac id ity ; paste uriz ati on ; c re am

e n n c urn n w as n s a n and ac k n rip i g ; h i g , hi g , lti g p i g b utte r ; ﬂ avors of b utte r ; storag e of b utte r ; marke t in e b u e r e no a e d and ad e d b utte r mar g ; w h y tt , r v t l l ;

ine and ar e st . g , t ing

T H E M A C M I L LA N CO M PA NY — Pub li sh ers 6 4 6 6 Fifth Av enue New York

A Manual of Milk Produc ts

B Y T K W . . S O N C G JR . A I , Professor of Dairy B acte riology in th e New York S tate College of Agriculture at Cornell University

Cloth 1 2 , 771 0 , This is a v ery re c e nt ad d ition to th e Rural M anual n h L H B h k a e . T e o is S erie s u d er t e e ditorship of . . il y w r intend e d to serv e as a re feren c e b ook cov e ring th e e ntire b O f m k and it od u c s T ar c a n su j e ct il s pr t . h ere e h pters o Th e C em c a C om os on of M k Th e Fac o s W c In h i l p iti il , t r hi h ﬂuen c e Its C om os on Ph s ca P o e es Th e Va ous p iti , y i l r p rti , ri Tes s Used in th e S d of M lk Th e P od c on and t tu y i , r u ti H and n of M k B e Mak n Th e C eam S li g il , utt r i g , r upply , B u e Mak n on th e Fa m Ch eese Mak n and th e B ac tt r i g r , i g , teriolo of a P od c gy D iry r u ts .

Milk and Its Produc ts

B Y H ENRY H N . WI G Professor of Dairy Husbandry in Cornell University

New Revi sed Edition with new illu strations cloth 1 2mo , , , ,

Th e e o on in d a ac ce b ou ab o b th e r v luti iry pr ti , r ght ut y introd u ction of th e c entrifugal cream separator and th e B ab c ock es for fat b a mo e d e n e know ed e e a d n t t , y r ﬁ it l g r g r i g th e ar o s ermen a ons a so e a n uenc e m k v i u f t ti th t gr tly i ﬂ il , and th e man ac u e of its od c s h a e d emand ed th e uf t r pr u t , v b l ca on of a b ook a sh a e to th e d a man and pu i ti th t ll giv iry , a c la to th e d a s d en in S m le c on c se o m p rti u rly iry tu t , i p , i f r , h n n n m d n r r u h t e pri cipl es u d erlyi g o er d ai y p acti ce . S c h as ’ b e en P o e sso W n s u ose in s w ork T s is not a r f r i g p rp thi . hi ’ ne w e dition of th e auth or s v ery su c cessful v olume publish e d nd e th e same e man e a s a o is in rea an u r titl y y r g ; it , lity, e n el n ew b ook a n b een w o e se and e nla ed tir y , h vi g h lly r t rg by th e ad d on of n m n on Th e ew a e b o e a d us a s . iti tt r , th t xt ill tr ti ’ auth or s aim h as b e en at all time s to giv e th e pre sent state of know l e d ge as supporte d b y th e w eight of e vid ence and th e O n ons of ose w ose au o is h es pi i th h th rity hig t .

THE MACM ILLAN COMPANY — Pub lish e rs 64 66 Fifth Ave nue New York