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Across Asia on a Bicycle by Thomas Gaskell Allen and William Lewis Sachtleben

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Across Asia on a Bicycle by Thomas Gaskell Allen and William Lewis Sachtleben The Project Gutenberg EBook of Across Asia on a Bicycle by Thomas Gaskell Allen and William Lewis Sachtleben This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at http://www.gutenberg.org/license Title: Across Asia on a Bicycle Author: Thomas Gaskell Allen and William Lewis Sachtleben Release Date: January 29, 2010 [Ebook 31111] Language: English ***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ACROSS ASIA ON A BICYCLE*** ACROSS ASIA ON A BICYCLE THROUGH WESTERN CHINA IN LIGHT MARCHING ORDER. ACROSS ASIA ON A BICYCLE THE JOURNEY OF TWO AMERICAN STUDENTS FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO PEKING BY THOMAS GASKELL ALLEN, JR. AND WILLIAM LEWIS SACHTLEBEN vi Across Asia on a Bicycle NEW YORK THE CENTURY CO. 1894 Copyright, 1894, by THE CENTURY CO. All rights reserved. THE DEVINNE PRESS. TO THOSE AT HOME WHOSE THOUGHTS AND WISHES WERE EVER WITH US IN OUR WANDERINGS [xi] PREFACE This volume is made up of a series of sketches describing the most interesting part of a bicycle journey around the world,—our ride across Asia. We were actuated by no desire to make a “record” in bicycle travel, although we covered 15,044 miles on the wheel, the longest continuous land journey ever made around the world. The day after we were graduated at Washington University, St. Louis, Mo., we left for New York. Thence we sailed for Liverpool on June 23, 1890. Just three years afterward, lacking twenty days, we rolled into New York on our wheels, having “put a girdle round the earth.” Our bicycling experience began at Liverpool. After following many of the beaten lines of travel in the British Isles we arrived in London, where we formed our plans for traveling across Europe, Asia, and America. The most dangerous regions to be traversed in such a journey, we were told, were western China, the Desert of Gobi, and central China. Never since the days of Marco Polo had a European traveler succeeded in crossing the Chinese empire from the west to Peking. Crossing the Channel, we rode through Normandy to Paris, across the lowlands of western France to Bordeaux, eastward over the Lesser Alps to Marseilles, and along the Riviera into Italy. After visiting every important city on the peninsula, we left Italy at Brindisi on the last day of 1890 for Corfu, in Greece. Thence we traveled to Patras, proceeding along the Corinthian Gulf to [xii] Athens, where we passed the winter. We went to Constantinople x Across Asia on a Bicycle by vessel in the spring, crossed the Bosporus in April, and began the long journey described in the following pages. When we had finally completed our travels in the Flowery Kingdom, we sailed from Shanghai for Japan. Thence we voyaged to San Francisco, where we arrived on Christmas night, 1892. Three weeks later we resumed our bicycles and wheeled by way of Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas to New York. During all of this journey we never employed the services of guides or interpreters. We were compelled, therefore, to learn a little of the language of every country through which we passed. Our independence in this regard increased, perhaps, the hardships of the journey, but certainly contributed much toward the object we sought—a close acquaintance with strange peoples. During our travels we took more than two thousand five hundred photographs, selections from which are reproduced in the illustrations of this volume. CONTENTS PAGE I. BEYOND THE BOSPORUS 1 II. THE ASCENT OF MOUNT ARARAT 43 III. THROUGH PERSIA TO SAMARKAND 83 IV. THE JOURNEY FROM SAMARKAND TO 115 KULDJA V. OVER THE GOBI DESERT AND THROUGH 149 THE WESTERN GATE OF THE GREAT WALL VI. AN INTERVIEW WITH THE PRIME MINISTER 207 OF CHINA List of Illustrations THROUGH WESTERN CHINA IN LIGHT MARCHING ORDER. [Frontispiece] . iii BICYCLE ROUTE OF Messrs. Allen & Sachtleben ACROSS ASIA. [p. 4 and 5] . .4 THE DONKEY BOYS INSPECT THE 'DEVIL'S CAR- RIAGE.' [p. 6] . .4 HELPING A TURK WHOSE HORSES RAN AWAY AT SIGHT OF OUR BICYCLES. [p. 8] . .7 AN ANGORA SHEPHERD. [p. 9] . .8 1, THE ENGLISH CONSUL AT ANGORA FEEDING HIS PETS; 2, PASSING A CARAVAN OF CAMELS; 3, PLOWING IN ASIA MINOR. [p. 11] . .8 A CONTRAST. [p. 12] . .9 A TURKISH FLOUR-MILL. [p. 13] . 11 MILL IN ASIA MINOR. [p. 15] . 13 GIPSIES OF ASIA MINOR. [p. 16] . 15 SCENE AT A GREEK INN. [p. 19] . 15 EATING KAISERICHEN (EKMEK) OR BREAD. [p. 20] 18 GRINDING WHEAT. [p. 21] . 19 A TURKISH (HAMAAL) OR CARRIER. [p. 22] . 19 TURKISH WOMEN GOING TO PRAYERS IN KAISARIEH. [p. 23] . 22 THE 'FLIRTING TOWER' IN SIVAS. [p. 25] . 23 HOUSE OF THE AMERICAN CONSUL IN SIVAS. [p. 26]............................ 24 ARABS CONVERSING WITH A TURK. [p. 29] . 27 A KADI EXPOUNDING THE KORAN. [p. 30] . 28 EVENING HALT IN A VILLAGE. [p. 32] . 30 PRIMITIVE WEAVING. [p. 33] . 31 List of Illustrations xiii A FERRY IN ASIA MINOR. [p. 38] . 36 A VILLAGE SCENE. [p. 40] . 37 [Rural scene without caption.] [p. 42] . 40 WHERE THE 'ZAPTIEHS' WERE NOT A NUISANCE. [p. 50] . 47 READY FOR THE START. [p. 53] . 49 PARLEYING WITH THE KURDISH PARTY AT THE SPRING. [p. 56] . 51 THE KURDISH ENCAMPMENT. [p. 59] . 53 OUR GUARDS SIT DOWN TO DISCUSS THE SITUA- TION. [p. 65] . 58 HELPING THE DONKEYS OVER A SNOW-FIELD. [p. 67]............................ 60 LITTLE ARARAT COMES INTO VIEW. [p. 69] . 62 THE WALL INCLOSURE FOR OUR BIVOUAC AT ELEVEN THOUSAND FEET. [p. 72] . 64 NEARING THE HEAD OF THE GREAT CHASM. [p. 74] 66 ON THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT ARARAT—FIRING THE FOURTH OF JULY SALUTE. [p. 78] . 70 HARVEST SCENE NEAR KHOI. [p. 84] . 76 LEAVING KHOI. [p. 86] . 78 YARD OF CARAVANSARY AT TABREEZ. [p. 88] . 79 LUMBER-YARD AT TABREEZ. [p. 88] . 79 THE CONVEYANCE OF A PERSIAN OFFICIAL TRAVELING IN DISGRACE TO TEHERAN AT THE CALL OF THE SHAH. [p. 91] . 82 A PERSIAN REPAIRING THE WHEELS OF HIS WAGON. [p. 94] . 85 LEAVING TEHERAN FOR MESHED. [p. 96] . 86 IN A PERSIAN GRAVEYARD. [p. 98] . 88 PILGRIMS IN THE CARAVANSARY. [p. 99] . 89 A PERSIAN WINE-PRESS. [p. 100] . 90 CASTLE STRONGHOLD AT LASGIRD. [p. 102] . 92 xiv Across Asia on a Bicycle PILGRIM STONE HEAPS OVERLOOKING MESHED. [p. 104] . 93 RIDING BEFORE THE GOVERNOR AT MESHED. [p. 105] . 95 FEMALE PILGRIMS ON THE ROAD TO MESHED. [p. 106] . 95 IN THE GARDEN OF THE RUSSIAN CONSULATE AT MESHED. [p. 107] . 96 WATCH-TOWER ON THE TRANSCASPIAN RAIL- WAY. [p. 108] . 98 GIVING A 'SILENT PILGRIM' A ROLL TOWARD MESHED. [p. 109] . 98 AN INTERVIEW WITH GENERAL KUROPATKINE AT THE RACES NEAR ASKABAD. [p. 111] . 100 MOSQUE CONTAINING THE TOMB OF TAMER- LANE AT SAMARKAND. [p. 112] . 101 CARAVANSARY AT FAKIDAOUD. [p. 113] . 102 A MARKET-PLACE IN SAMARKAND, AND THE RU- INS OF A COLLEGE. [p. 114] . 102 A RELIGIOUS DRAMA IN SAMARKAND. [p. 116] . 105 OUR FERRY OVER THE ZERAFSHAN. [p. 118] . 106 PALACE OF THE CZAR’S NEPHEW, TASHKEND. [p. 121] . 109 A SART RESCUING HIS CHILDREN FROM THE CAMERA OF THE 'FOREIGN DEVILS.' [p. 123] . 111 VIEW OF CHIMKEND FROM THE CITADEL. [p. 125] . 114 ON THE ROAD BETWEEN CHIMKEND AND VER- NOYE. [p. 129] . 116 UPPER VALLEY OF THE CHU RIVER. [p. 132] . 119 KIRGHIZ ERECTING KIBITKAS BY THE CHU RIVER. [p. 134] . 121 FANTASTIC RIDING AT THE SUMMER ENCAMP- MENT OF THE COSSACKS. [p. 138] . 124 STROLLING MUSICIANS. [p. 141] . 126 List of Illustrations xv THE CUSTOM-HOUSE AT KULDJA. [p. 143] . 129 THE CHINESE MILITARY COMMANDER OF KULDJA. [p. 145] . 130 TWO CATHOLIC MISSIONARIES IN THE YARD OF OUR KULDJA INN. [p. 146] . 131 A MORNING PROMENADE ON THE WALLS OF KULDJA. [p. 148] . 132 THE FORMER MILITARY COMMANDER OF KULDJA AND HIS FAMILY. [p. 151] . 135 VIEW OF A STREET IN KULDJA FROM THE WEST- ERN GATE. [p. 153] . 137 OUR RUSSIAN FRIEND AND MR. SACHTLEBEN LOADED WITH ENOUGH CHINESE 'CASH' TO PAY FOR A MEAL AT A KULDJA RESTAURANT. [p. 155] . 140 A STREET IN THE TARANTCHI QUARTER OF KULDJA. [p. 158] . 142 PRACTISING OUR CHINESE ON A KULDJA CUL- PRIT. [p. 160] . 143 THE HEAD OF A BRIGAND EXPOSED ON THE HIGHWAY. [p. 161] . 144 A CHINESE GRAVEYARD ON THE EASTERN OUT- SKIRTS OF KULDJA. [p. 163] . 145 SPLITTING POPPY-HEADS TO START THE OPIUM JUICE. [p. 165] . 147 THE CHIEF OF THE CUSTOM-HOUSE GIVES A LES- SON IN OPIUM SMOKING. [p. 167] . 148 RIDING BEFORE THE GOVERNOR OF MANAS. [p. 168] . 149 MONUMENT TO A PRIEST AT URUMTSI. [p. 170] . 150 A BANK IN URUMTSI. [p. 171] . 152 A MAID OF WESTERN CHINA. [p. 173] . 153 STYLISH CART OF A CHINESE MANDARIN. [p. 174] 154 A CHINESE PEDDLER FROM BARKUL. [p. 176] . 157 xvi Across Asia on a Bicycle CHINESE GRAVES ON THE ROAD TO HAMI. [p. 178] 158 SCENE IN A TOWN OF WESTERN CHINA. [p. 179] . 159 A LESSON IN CHINESE. [p. 180] . 160 A TRAIL IN THE GOBI DESERT. [p. 182] . 160 IN THE GOBI DESERT. [p. 183] . 163 STATION OF SEB-BOO-TCHAN. [p. 185] . 164 A ROCKY PASS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF THE GOBI. [p. 187] . 166 A WASTE OF BLACK SAND IN THE GOBI. [p. 188] . 166 A ROAD MARK IN THE GOBI DESERT. [p. 189] . 168 WITHIN THE WESTERN GATE OF THE GREAT WALL. [p. 191] . 170 RIDING BY THE GREAT WALL ON THE ROAD TO SU-CHOU.
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