The Schwatka-Haynes Winter Expedition in Yellowstone, 1887

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Winter 1983 "At the Greatest Personal Peril to the Photographer": The Schwatka-Haynes Winter Expedition in Yellowstone, 1887

William L. Lang

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Citation Details Lang, W. L. (1983). "At the Greatest Personal Peril to the Photographer": The Schwatka-Haynes Winter Expedition in Yellowstone, 1887. Vol. 33, No. 1 (Winter, 1983), pp. 14-29.

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by William L. Lang needed no embellishment but inevitably suggested it. It was the kind of story that ideally Step by plodding step the four weary skiers suited the histrionics of popular lecturers like felt their way around the mountain, peering John L. Stoddard. And it was the kind of event into the white fastness and hoping to strike a that becomes legend practically before it has familiar landmark before their energy and concluded. Listeners, no doubt, involuntarily time faded. It was January 1887, in the middle gripped their chair arms as Stoddard pulled of the worst winter on record in the northern them along with the frozen and threatened Rockies, and the four disoriented men were quartet. "The cold and wind seemed unen- in a lost blizzard on the slopes of Mt. Wash- durable, even for an hour," Stoddard told burn in the howling sub-zero chill of Yellow- them in icy tones, "but they endured them for stone National Park. two One guide, sturdy three days. A sharp sleet cut their faces like a outdoorsmen and a photographer from Fargo, rain of needles, and made it perilous to look Dakota Territory, the last of a much larger ahead. Almost dead from sheer exhaustion, force that had begun a mid-winter circuit of they were unable to lie down for fear of freez- the Park some twenty days earlier, had left ing; chilled to the bone, they could make no that morning, a day's ski from shelter. Their fire; and, although fainting, they had not a story of near disaster and eventual success mouthful for seventy-two hours. What a ter- justified the photographer's claim to have ac- rific chapter for any man to add to the quired views "at the Greatest Personal Peril mysterious volume we call lifel"1 to the Photographer." It was the kind of true adventure drama that

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R . Stoddard exaggerated the perils, although Arctic wastes appealed too much, especially c they were real enough, but so did everyone when Westerners talked about a self-impor- else who told and retold the story of photo- tant easterner, like Schwatka, who underesti- 0 grapher F. Jay Haynes and his companions' mated the rigors of the frontier. CD narrow escape from an icy death. And in the With or without the element of personal tellings, comparisons between Haynes and competition, the story is as terrific as Stod- !F. Is the great Lt. Frederick Schwatka, famous dard said it was. But how accurately has it Arctic explorer, invariably spiced the conver- been told? What actually happened out there cn0 sations. It was Schwatka who initially led the in the merciless sub-zero cold of Yellow- CD Yellowstone trek and it was Schwatka who stone's worst winter? What happened to presumably knew the methods of exploring Schwatka and his party and what prompted a frozen terrain, but the veteran explorer's man who had skied only a few times to slog health gave out quickly and forced him to his way for nearly 200 miles when he knew stop, while Haynes skied on in pursuit of the danger lurked? And why did any of the ex spectacular winter views that had originally pedition members eagerly start off on such a lured him on the mission. In some versions journey in the first place? the personalities of Schwatka and Haynes nearly overshadow the death-cheating drama itself. The image of the plucky Dakota photo- .;9 l. X grapher outdistancing the conqueror of of the

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This content downloaded by the authorized user from 192.168.52.75 on Fri, 7 Dec 2012 11:43:02 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions T HE FIRSTPRINCIPAL in the story of the Yellowstone winter expedition in 1887 brought with him a considerable reputation as an explorer and adventurer. In that era of highly publicized expeditions to remote areas of the globe, > anyone interested in the Arctic regions knew of Lt. Frederick Schwatka of the U.S. Army. The leader of ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~- the last great expedition seeking to learn the fate of Sir JohnFranklin, who had disappeared in the Arctic 0 in 1847-1848,Schwatka vaulted to fame as readers of James Bennett's New York Herald followed his pro- gress north from Hudson Bay across the frozen wastes in 1878-1880.Reports in 1878 of new leads in the three-decades-oldsearch for Franklin's ship and records had fired Schwatka's enthusiasm for exploration and high adventure. After much persistent discussion, Schwatka had convinced Judge Charles Daly of the American Geographical Society that his expedition warranted the Society's support, as small A~~~~~~~ as that support promised to be. Daly finally agreed and Bennett added interest by contracting with expedition member William H. Gilder as correspon- dent for the Herald. Herald readers anxiously absorbed each install- ment of Gilder's expedition story, much as they had nearly a decade earlier when Bennett sent Henry M. Stanley to Africa in search of Dr. David Livingstone. "Schwatka's Search" became a colloquialism of the day for anyone's indefatigablepursuit of a goal; such was Schwatka's instant fame. A popular hero in the United States, he received unsolicited honorary Frederick Schwatka, ca. 1881 membershipsfrom explorers' clubs the world over. It was not his search for the Franklin party's remains, however, that made him famous. In Gilder's articles cult from the northernreaches of Hudson Bay in con what im- and in his later book, Schwatka's Search, ditions that few expeditions had endured. All pressed all and triggered the popular imagination previous polar expeditions had avoided similar was the lieutenant's courage and endurance in the overland routes, preferringto travel by water during face of impressive obstacles-his adventure on the the best season for such travel. Even Schwatka's ice. Eskimo guides nearly refused to accompany the Schwatka's force, consisting of four explorers and group into untraversed territory. several Eskimo guides, and lightly outfitted with ne- Gale-force winds and mercury thermometer read- cessary gear, a pack of dogs and sledges, travelled ings of -650 and -70 0 slowed the group to a near crawl just a few days short of one year over the Arctic ice. in January and February 1880 on the return leg of They journeyed over 2,000 miles on a northwardcir- their trek. After all but one Eskimo had deserted them and they had lost all of their forty-two dogs to 1. John L. Stoddard,Stoddard's Lectures Vol. X (Chicago:Belford, Middle- brookand Co., 1898),pp. 291-292.For previouslypublished discussions of the elements, the rugged party followed Schwatka's Haynes'role in the expedition,see FreemanTilden, Following the Frontier lead in pulling the sledges and living off the iced with F. J. Haynes,Pioneer Photographer of the Old West(Knopf, 1964), pp. theGaena, sellinfois,c inae1849, Schwatka'gewupi 339-356;Aubrey L. Haines, The YellowstoneStory (Boulder:Colorado landscape. They fed themselves by hunting musk-ox AssociatedUniversity Press, 2 vols., 1977),II, pp. 8-11;Jack Ellis Haynes, "The First WinterTrip ThroughYellowstone National Park,"Annals of and caribou and learning to eat decaying fish and Wyoming14 (April1942), pp. 89-97. walrus. Schwatka, in one of the longest sledge jour- 2. Schwatka's findings did not contribute significantly to knowledge of neys on record, set new standardsfor Arctic explora- Franklin'sfate, but he did confirm the earlier discoveries of Sir Leopold McClintockand he found the identifiableremains of Lt. JohnIrving of the tion, proving that one could penetrate the northern Terror, one of Franklin's two vessels. William H. Gilder, Schwatka's polar region in winter if Eskimo-styletravel and liv- Search:Sledging in the Arcticin Questof the FranklinRecords (NY: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1881), pp. vii-xii; Frederick Schwatka, "A Musk-Ox ing were adopted.2 Hunt," The CenturyMagazine 26 (September1883), pp. 671-679;Noel Wright,Quest For Franklin(London: Heineman, 1959), p. 131; L. P. Kir- This epic Arctic journeybegan Schwatka's remark- wan, A Historyof PolarExploration (NY: W. W. Norton,1959), pp. 173-174, able fourteen-yearcareer of daring adventures. Born 257, 299; L. H. Neatby,Conquest of the Last Frontier(Athens, Ohio: Ohio UniversityPress, 1966),pp. 155-165.

This content downloaded by the authorized user from 192.168.52.75 on Fri, 7 Dec 2012 11:43:02 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Salem, Oregon, where his family had relocated the "When I humbly suggested a raft as my future con- following year. His youth in Salem included appren- veyance, and hoped to make the whole river in a ticeships in the print shops of two local newspapers summer's dash," Schwatka later wrote, "I was before he received an appointment to West Point in hooted at and ridiculed by natives and white men 1867. He graduatedin 1871 and took his commission alike.", With that chip on his shoulder, he scoffed at with the 3rd Cavalry,which brought Schwatkato the the timid, just as he had done in the Arctic in 1879, plains and eventually into combat against the Sioux and successfully brought his party down the river to in 1876. the sea. His June-to-Augustexpedition, which ex- In those postwar times, West Point graduatescould perts have called brilliant, placed his explorers in expect assignment on the western frontier or in the life-threatening jeopardy time and again as they Reconstruction South, and it is likely that Schwatka negotiated their raft through narrow canyons and welcomed the chance to serve west of the Mississip- churning rapids. His fame increased.7 pi. He loved the adventure of life on the plains, es- By now, exploration had become Schwatka's pas- pecially the thrill of the hunt and the enjoyment of sion. In 1885 he turned his back on military life, scouting and camping in open country.3 He took a resigned his commission, and devoted his energies to restless energy with him to a succession of posts in planning future expeditions and writing.8The Yukon Kansas and Nebraskain the early 1870s. Perhaps be- adventure had whetted his appetite for Alaska and, cause military life offered too few challenges or be- with support from the New York Times, Schwatka cause he had to satisfy a larger ambition, Lt. Schwat- eagerly agreed to lead an expedition to Mt. St. Elias ka studied law in his free hours and gained admit- in the Alaskan coast range in July and August 1886. tance to the Nebraska bar in 1875. One profession The Times expedition hoped to ascend the evidently was not enough, for the following year he 15,350-foot peak and conduct the first thorough took leave from his military assignment to study geographical exploration of the mountainous region. medicine in New York City, earning a medical de- After a strenuous approach to the remote mountain, gree in surgery from Bellevue Hospital Medical Col- Schwatka and two experienced alpinists struggled lege. In the spring of 1876 he rejoinedhis regiment in up the massive Tyndall Glacier, reaching the time to participatein the Tongue River, Rosebud and 7,300-foot level before giving up the climb.9 Slim Buttes battles in the Sioux War. After his Arctic Resourceful as he was, Schwatka could not find a adventure in 1878-1880, the lieutenant again re- safe path through the glacial field of yawning turned west, this time as aide-de-camp to General crevasses on Tyndall Glacier. He returned from the Nelson A. Miles at Fort Vancouver,Washington Ter- St. Elias expedition in late August 1886 with explora- ritory. In 1882 he marriedAda J. Brackettand in the tion still on his mind, and with the same pull back to following year he was off on another adventure, ice, snow and mountains. In the fall of 1886 he began again obtaining military leave for his explorations.4 to plan the first mid-winter circuit of Yellowstone The north country lured Schwatka again and National Park. again. Although he felt a kinship to the plains and he enthusiastically investigated native cultures in the American Southwest and northern Mexico in the JAYHAYNES, the second principalfigure 1880s,5 the land of snow, ice and mountains mer- in the Yellowstone winter drama in 1887, cilessly pulled at him. And he loved to tempt the *did not exhibit Schwatka's urges to explore odds. Perhaps that, more than anything, constituted remote regions or tempt fate on raging rivers, but the attraction. He challenged himself again in 1883 adventure played a significant role in his life too. when he led a party of seven on the first full explora- Seldom did he pass over an opportunityto capture a tion of the 2,000-mile-long Yukon River, from the new or spectacular view with his camera, particular- to Norton Sound on the Sea. Kotusk Range Bering ly in Yellowstone National Park. From canyon bottoms to mountain peaks, he took his cameras to 3. Frederick Schwatka, "An Elk-Hunt on the Plains," The Century Magazine 35 Uanuary 1888), pp. 447-456. Schwatka wrote several articles for The points where he could capture unique and artistic Century in the 1880e, many of them illustrated with engravings rendered he would from the lieutenant's fine and detailed field sketches. views. On the Yellowstone expedition prove himself a resourceful outdoorsman and above 4. Frank E. Hodgkin and J. J. Galvin, Pen Pictures of Representative Men of Oregon (Portland: Farmer and Dairyman Publishing House, 1882), pp. all a courageous leader. And this he had in common 65-6.

5. See, for example, Frederick Schwatka, "Among the Apaches," The Cen- 8. In addition to his Century articles, Schwatka wrote of his Yukon trip in tury Magazine 34 (May 1887), pp. 41-52. Along Alaska's Great River (NY: Casseil Publishing Co., 1885) and of his Arctic adventure in Nimrod of the North (NY: Cassell Publishing Co., 6. Frederick Schwatka, "The Great River of Alaska," The Century Magazine 1885). 30 (September 1885), p. 738, and Pt. II (October 1885), pp. 819-829. 9. Frederick Schwatka, "The Expedition of 'The New York Times' (1886)," 7. Walter A. Wood, "United States Arctic Exploration Through 1939," in The Century Magazine 41 (April 1891), pp. 865-872. See also Schwatka, United States Polar Exploration, edited by Herman R. Friis and Shelby G. Children of the Cold (NY: Casseli Publishing Co., 1888) and Summer in Bale, Jr. (Athens, Ohio: Ohio University Press, 1970), pp. 14-15. Alaska (St. Louis: J. M. Henry, 1891).

This content downloaded by the authorized user from 192.168.52.75 on Fri, 7 Dec 2012 11:43:02 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions with Schwatka; Haynes expressed leadership and rapher,"he secured the first commercial concession sought recognition. in the Park and soon built a studio at Mammoth Hot Haynes was born in Saline, Michigan, in 1853, Springs. That began a yearly summer pilgrimage to where he spent his youth learning his father's mer- the Park, where he took up the challenge of photo- cantile business, selling hardwareand other items in graphing its wonders. Saline and in the Michigan countryside. By age Yellowstone's natural splendor lured Haynes to twenty-one, Haynes had enough experience to gain nearly every accessible thermal and geological other employment easily when hard times forced his feature and to many that were anything but accessi- father to relocate and abandon his business. Haynes ble. The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone River, a found a job with an itinerant salesman of chromolith- magnificent 1600-foot gash through thermal-colored ographs in Ann Arbor, and then after poor results on volcanic rock, drew Haynes' most concentrated at- his own selling various items, he became a photo- tention, particularlyat the breathtakingLower Falls. grapher's apprentice in Wisconsin in 1874. The fol- Haynes approached his subjects adventurously, lowing year he gained more experience working for lowering his ninety-pound camera to the canyon another photographerbefore taking the double risk floor and perching his tripods at the edges of hissing of striking out on his own and moving to Moorhead, fumaroles and explosive geysers. He became an ex- Minnesota, on the edge of the frontier.10 pert on the Park'sfeatures, a committed promoter of He opened his first studio in Moorheadin 1876 and Yellowstone, and its most creative photographic in- went about the work of being a photographer in a terpreter. small western community. Success came quickly. By 1886, when FrederickSchwatka began planning His sales background stood him well as he built a his Yellowstone winter trek, the thirty-three-year-old reputationon fine studio portraitsand saleable stere- F. Jay Haynes stood as the best and most experienced oscopic views of the Minnesota and Dakota coun- photographerwho might accompany the expedition trysides. Landscapes and exterior views captivated through "Wonderland."The story of how Haynes Haynes and challenged his improving talents. His came to join Schwatka is the beginning of one of the results caught the eye of Northern Pacific Railroad most interesting episodes in Yellowstone National officials who desired promotionalviews of their new Park history. transcontinental line, just then resuming construc- Frederick Schwatka had an eye for publicity. He tion in Dakota Territory.His first NP commission in never failied to publicize his expeditions through 1876 began a life-long professional and business newspaper stories and popular journalarticles, most- association that would bring him considerable recog- ly written by himself. In 1886, The CenturyMagazine, nition and financial reward. Two years later he mar- where Schwatka had published several pieces, and ried, and moved his studio to nearby Fargo, Dakota Joseph Pulitzer's New York World newspaper Territory.By 1879, Haynes worked regularly for the recognized the potential in Schwatka's planned ex- NP, on a commission basis, taking pictures of rail- pedition in Yellowstone and agreed to provide partial road construction and trackside subjects west of support. The combination of one of the nation's most Bismarckand east of Tacoma, WashingtonTerritory. celebrated Arctic explorers and the mysteries of The NP connection brought Haynes to Yellow- Yellowstone's thermal uniquities in icy winter stone National Park in 1881, his first visit to assured popularity. Although it is unclear which "Wonderland."Charles S. Fee, General Passenger publication Schwatka approached first, he consi- Agent in St. Paul for the NP, and Haynes' friend and dered appearance in The Centurymost important." promoter, arranged the trip for Haynes to photo- Transportation,however, not publicity, proved to graph what would become the railroad's principal be the critical link in Schwatka's preparations. western tourist attraction. The Park and its spectac- Sometime in September or October 1886 he con- ular scenery overwhelmed the photographer; the tacted the NP offices in St. Paul about rail passage for subject would dominate the remainder of his profes- his expedition party to Yellowstone. Passenger Agent sional life. In 1884, one year after the Northern Charles S. Fee handled the request and soon offered Pacific and the Yellowstone ParkImprovement Com- a suggestion, one that promised to embellish the ex- pany had both designated him their "OfficialPhotog- pedition's results. The inclusion of F. Jay Haynes of Fargo, the Northern Pacific's "Official Photog- rapher,"would assure Schwatka of the finest expedi-

10. For biographical information on F. Jay Haynes see Tilden, Follow- ing the Frontier; Montana Historical Society, F. Jay Haynes, Photographer pp. 7-17. The most com- (Helena: Montana Historical Society Press, 1981), Fee to F. Jay Haynes, November 13, 1886, Haynes Coll., "F. Haynes 12. Charles S. plete treatment of Haynes' life is David A. Walter, Jay Fee asked Haynes to supply specified photographs to Prof. Montana Historical Society, MSUSC. (1853-1921)," typescript, 1981, Archives, WilliamLibbey of Princetonfor Libbey'slectures on Schwatka'sexplora- Helena. tions. Libbeywas a memberof the Mt. St. Elias expedition.This may have 11. Comments in Schwatka letter to Charles S. Fee (December 1, 1886) as been the way Schwatkalearned of Haynes and his expertise. Fee pressed quoted in Charles S. Fee to F. Jay Haynes, December 8, 1886, Haynes Col- Haynesto comply with the requeststating that it would be "a good adver- lection, Montana State University Special Collections [MSUSC], Bozeman. tisement for us. . ."

This content downloaded by the authorized user from 192.168.52.75 on Fri, 7 Dec 2012 11:43:02 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions graphs" at cost for himself, Joseph Pulitzer and the World's editor. Eager to conclude a deal with Schwatka, Fee suggested to Haynes, "I consider the Lieutenant'srequest [sic] very modest, and I have no doubt you will comply with them."'14 CA

ETAILSOF THE arrangementsbetween Schwatka and the NP are not clear, but it is probable that Schwatka had initiated discussions when he visited St. Paul in the fall of 1886. - ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~-What is certain is that Charles Fee thought enough of the lieutenant to give him and his plans an upper hand. There is evidence that Fee arranged most of the expedition's itineraryand ran several errands for Schwatka, including an attempt to locate sled dog teams in Winnipeg, Manitoba. Haynes himself seemed to get less consideration. Although he received a free ride to Yellowstone, the photographer had to chip in $50 as his share of the general expedition expenses; his photographic supplies and special equipment remained his responsibility.15 Schwatka, as he had in organizing the Alaskan adventures, put together a highly selective group to tour Yellowstone with him. Along with sketch artist Bosse and photographerHaynes, he enlisted two ex- pert snowshoers, CanadianJames G. Ross, vice-president of the Montreal Snow Shoe Club, and Henry C. Wadsworth, president of the Buffalo [N.Y.] Snow Shoe Club. To this group he added seventy-five-year- old Col. Joseph W. Brackett of Rock Island, Illinois F. Jay Haynesin 1886 (Schwatka'sfather-in-law), who would serve as quar- termaster. Brackettwould prove himself to be much tougher on the trip than his age would have sug- tion photography. And besides, Haynes knew the gested. In St. Paul, where Fee had arranged several Parkand its features as well as anyone.12 meetings with NP officials and local snowshoe clubs, Schwatkahad already contracted with a sketch ar- the expedition leader signed on two more outdoors- tist, Henry Bosse of Rock Island, Illinois, to provide men, John W. Coho and W.W. West." artwork for the New York World articles, but the Perhaps because of his experiences in the Arctic prospect of getting high-quality photographs of the and Alaska, Schwatka approached the Yellowstone expedition excited him. Haynes' work could greatly trek as a similar but easier undertaking. It is true, of improve his Century articles. As Schwatka outlined course, that his Yellowstone journey had no explora- The should receive to Fee in early December, Century tion component, as had his previous ones. Still, he "a or of best full dozen twenty" Haynes' photographs seemed to have approached the entire mission with a told Fee: to illustratethe articles. Schwatka cavalier attitude. He claimed that he first learned of to the most important publication to us (and Yellowstone's winter mysteries in 1871 from the Mr. Haynes too for that matter as an advertise- famed scout, Jim Bridger. That seems unlikely, since ment for his photographs)will be The Century Schwatka appeared very uninformed on the nature article or articles. And they are as particularas of winter conditions in the Rockies when he arrived they can be about having exclusive right to the pictures they publish (until published) and 13. Schwatka quoted in Charles S. Fee to F. Jay Haynes, December 8, 1886, would not consent for an instant to the use of Haynes Coll., MSUSC. been used anything that had similarly by 14. Charles S. Fee to F. Jay Haynes, December 8,1886, Haynes Coll., MSUSC. others.13 15. Charles S. Fee to F. Jay Haynes, November 29, 1886, Haynes Coil., Schwatka's demands included more special treat- MSUSC; New York World, December 29, 1886. ment. He asked if it would not be possible for him to 16. New YorkcWorld, December 28, 1886; Minneapolis Tribune, December 29, purchase "three or four sets of his [Haynes'] photo- 1886.

This content downloaded by the authorized user from 192.168.52.75 on Fri, 7 Dec 2012 11:43:02 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions in St. Paul. Writing of snow conditions, for example, leather vests, buckskin leggings, canvas pants and he claimed that very little snow actually fell in overcoats, woolen outer socks and Arctic overboots, Yellowstone, which would make "the way easier to and woolen hats. Personal gear included a standard the footmen than snow-shoeing." If snow did fall in array of hand weapons, matches, knives, hatchets some quantity, he added, "the snow may be so hard and other utensils spread among the travelers. that snow-shoes are not needed to walk over its rock- Because of his experiences north of Hudson Bay in like masses." Before snowshoers in St. Paul argued 1880, Schwatka had instructed Brackettto outfit the him out of it, he had planned to make the circuit of expedition with tents, buffalo robes, Arctic sleeping the Park with dogs and sledges, Arctic style, and bags and other items for winter camping, even with additional support from mounted Crow In- though they had planned to be in one of the Park's dians. The St. Paul men who had tramped the Rock- hotels or military stations each night. He especially ies in winter quickly informed Schwatka that snow worried about food-memories of living on decayed in the region lay too deep and too light for walking or fish no doubt plagued him. "The party will, of sledge travel;the prospect that any group of Crow In- course, be well supplied with provisions," Schwatka dians would jog around the Park on horseback wrote in late 1886, "and somewhat on the plan of an through four-foot drifts seemed almost laughable.17 Arctic sledge journey;plenty of fatty, heat-producing While Schwatka corrected these initial miscalcula- material is needed, and of the most condensed char- tions, Col. Brackettand most of the expedition gear acter.... as my policy on all cold-weather cruises is sped on NP rails to Livingston,Montana. Once there, to have plenty to eat, if it is possible to be Brackett was to hire local guides and men to tend procured."20 camp on the trip. The lieutenant, with his expedi- Here is another example of Schwatka's misunder- tionary group, proceeded to Fargo and picked up standing of Yellowstone winter conditions. With that Haynes three days later, on December 30. Believing, amount of gear, which has been correctly character- as he wrote to Fee, that the expedition's beginning ized as excessive, the expedition would have to rely "should be regulated wholly by the full moon... on wagon transportation for much of the trip. That [which] gives as an average the clearest, coldest meant pulling iron-tiredwheels through deep snow; weather on the plains, the kind we want...," dogs and sledges, as earlier suggested, would have Schwatka planned to leave Mammoth on January1 served better than wagons. Further, the originally or 2.18When Schwatka, Haynes and others arrived at planned route through the Park had the party pro- Livingston, they found that Bracketthad already left ceeding east from Mammoth along the Cooke City on the NP branchline to Cinnabar, the jumping off wagon road to Yancey's in Pleasant Valley, and then place for entering the Park. Bracketthad caught that south to Tower Fall, over Mt. Washburnand down to week's train on December 30; the main party could the Canyon and Falls area. In 1886, only trails linked not follow until January 3.19 Yancey's with points to the south, and the terrain Just before leaving Livingston with equipage, would have made wagon travel arduous even in sum- Bracketthad contracted with four local outdoorsmen mer. At Livingston or at Mammoth, Schwatka al- to accompany the expedition. Charles A. Stoddard, tered the route to circle the Park in the opposite David Stratton, Charles H. Taylor, and James A. direction, heading south out of Mammoth to Norris Blakely agreed to serve as equipment handlers and and the Geyser Basins, and then to the Canyon area. general handymen during the trip. Some twenty days It is likely that Lt. HerbertE. Tutherlyat Camp Sheri- later, Stoddard and Stratton, the two most experi- dan, the months-old military cantonment at Mam- enced snowshoers, would get a more thrilling adven- moth Hot Springs, or seasoned guides C.J. Baronett ture than they had expected on Mt. Washburn,but or Ed Wilson advised the new route.21 on the way to Mammoth all they knew was the journey's general outline and the sizable amount of equipment they would be handling. That equipment O N THEMORNING of January5, 1887,with would prove to be a major problem early in the ex- mild weather and over hard snow covered pedition. with a light dusting, Schwatka's expedition- They planned to travel on roads and trails using ary force left Camp Sheridan on the wagon road that Norwegian snowshoes and Canadian web (skis) ran between the Hoodoos and Bunsen Peak through snowshoes. Their included woolen under- clothing Golden Gate. The expedition, including Baronett, woolen wear, Arctic gloves, flannel and shirts, who joined them at Mammoth, numbered thirteen, all travelling on ten-foot-long, four-inch-wide, 17. New York World, December 29, 1886, February 13, 1887; Helena Indepen- dent, January 2, 1887. 20. New York World, December 29, 1886; Avant Courier (Bozeman), January 6, 18. St. Paul Globe, January 1, 1887; Schwatka quoted in Charles S. Fee to F. Jay 1887. Haynes, December 8, 1886, Haynes Coll., MSUSC. 21. St. Paul Globe, December 20, 1886; New-Northwest (St. Paul), January 7, 19. New York World, February 13, 1887. 1887.

This content downloaded by the authorized user from 192.168.52.75 on Fri, 7 Dec 2012 11:43:02 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions - 0| ...... HAYNES -* ROSS !

Norwegianskis Schwatka had prevailed on Lt. men transfermost Qf the gear from the wagon to Tatherlyto carrythe gearin an Armywagon drawn severaltoboggans. While the soldiersheaded back to byfour mules Wagontransportation held out for just Mammoth, Schwatka's force continued south underbur miles of the projected175-mile journey. towardNorris, dragging the toboggansbehiIld them Bythe timethey had reachedSwan Lake Flat, nearly as they skied*22 1,000feet above Mammoth,the mules struggledas Onlytwo in the partyclaimed any expertisein the the wheels sank deeper and deeper in the snow. use of skis.Schwatka, Haynes and otherspracticed a Dri£tedsnow over the roadmade passage impossible, bit in Livingstonjust before New Year'ssbut only forcingSchwatka to makehis first expeditiondec;- sion. Alwaysprepared, the Arctic explorerhad his 22. Helena Independent, February 6, 1887*

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This content downloaded by the authorized user from 192.168.52.75 on Fri, 7 Dec 2012 11:43:02 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Ross and Wadsworth could negotiate hills and glide sled-pullingchores, some men grumbledand Haynes on the flats with any efficiency. The skiers moved wondered to himself how this group expected to forward with a gliding, walk-like motion, thrusting make the Park circuit in anything resembling timely one leg then the other forward vigorously as they fashion. Indeed, he grew concerned that they would pushed off with a long, stout pole. Unlike today's make it at all, and he became the more apprehensive light-weight touring skis with bindings that clamp when the last of the group straggled into the months- boot to ski, the skis in 1887 weighed well over ten old Norris Hotel at 10 p.m. Tired and some the worse pounds and had little more than a leather-straploop for wear, Schwatka's expeditionary force had tra- to hold the skier's boot on the ski.23 velled only twenty-two miles in three days.26 That first day of skiing and hauling the laden to- The next day, January8, dawned clear and cold; boggans, especially for those who were unaccus- the mercury had dropped to at least -300. Haynes, ar- tomed to the high altitude, left the party exhausted. tist Bosse, and others snowshoed around Norris Gey- They camped near Indian Creek,not more than eight ser Basin, taking in the sights. The extremely cold miles from their point of departure. Schwatka rea- temperatures,which settled down on the Park with lized the folly of men on skis trying to pull sleds. As the same force that they did on the plains in that he wrote later: coldest of winters, had transformed the geyser- ... we afterwards found in practice that steamed trees into imaginative ice sculptures-the mounted on our "skies" [sic] our traction ideal subject for sketch pad and camera lens. Haynes engines were of no value, for the rope had to be later described the scene as "beautiful beyond long and the bob would take any direction it description." Steaming fumaroles in the midst of pleased, and it generally pleased to shoot off at heavily iced trees gave the Basin the aura of "a great wild tangents, or coming down a slight incline, manufacturingcenter."27 This was why Haynes had to slide off and nip some unsuspecting explorer been eager to join Schwatka, and the Norris views in the legs, knock him over and endanger his only whetted his appetite for the spectacular scenes salvation. The draggers, therefore, had to use he expected in the Firehole and Upper Geyser the web snowshoe, and even with these our Basins. Although Henry Bird Calfee, a Bozeman pho- trials and tribulationswith the bobs were many tographer, had earlier taken winter pictures of Yel- and varied.24 lowstone's geysers, Haynes knew that his portfolio of Schwatka made his second decision. Leaving nearly photos from this expedition would constitute the all of the gear in a storage barn at Indian Creek, he first complete mid-winter photographs of Yellow- had the men jam necessary items into packs to stone's wonders.28Their use to Charles Fee and the lighten the load in the two sleds they pulled to Nor- Northern Pacific Railroad was certain and the com- ris. Another day of difficult going in the deep snow mercial possibilities were obvious. took them little more than a couple of miles closer to On January 9, Schwatka led the snowshoers, all their destination. At that point, in Willow Park near carrying moderately heavy packs, south and west Winter Creek and about two miles beyond the bridge away from the Norris geysers along the Gibbon across the Gardner River, Schwatka established a River, heading toward the Lower Geyser Basin. They hasty camp and erected a Sibley tent to lessen the ef- expected little difficulty on the eighteen-mile trip to fects of the now sub-zero chill. the Firehole Hotel at Nez Perce Creek,save the tricky According to later comments by one of the men passage at Gibbon Canyon. But not quite four miles Bracketthad hired, expedition morale slipped as the out the energetic and resolute Lt. Schwatka, the man men realized how little ground they had covered.25 who had beaten Arctic blizzards at -700 and floated But on the third day, when Schwatka and Brackett the mightly Yukon, collapsed on the trail. Accounts evidently had inequitablyassigned pack burdens and that later appeared in local and regional newspapers described Schwatka's symptoms as hemorrhaging 23. Forest 8 Stream, March 17, 1887. The Norwegian ski ranged in length from 81/2to 11 feet and varied in thickness from 2 to 1 inches at the thickest lungs, but the actual nature of his illness remains point. Hickory, ash and red fir were the preferred woods, and they con- He had tired in the trek from Mammoth, structed most skis with plenty of camber. To increase glide and protect the mysterious. ski, they usually flame-scorched the ski bottoms, which had been coated and it is likely that the combination of altitude, and a with a mixture of beeswax, linseed oil, and rosin. condition weakened by previous expeditions, had 24. New York World, February 13, 1887. 29. Livingston Enterprise, January 22, 1887; Helena Independent, February 6, 25. Forest 8 Stream, April 7, 1887. Report of expedition morale was repeated 1887. by T. E. Hofer in articles written for Forest & Stream as he covered part of and hotels with the Schwatka route several weeks later and discussed the Schwatka ex- 30. Telephone communications connected the soldier stations trapped Haynes at the Upper pedition with Park personnel who had talked with expedition members. Mammoth. The massive snow storm that Geyser Basin pulled down the telephone lines for several weeks. 26. Chicago Tribune, March 5, 1887, newspaper clipping in Lily Haynes' scrapbook, Haynes Coll., MSUSC. 31. James G. Ross to F. Jay Haynes, March 23, 1887, Haynes Coll., MSUSC; Haines, Yellowstone Story, I, pp. 318-319; J. E. Haynes. "First Winter 27. Chicago Tribune, March 5, 1887. Trip," p. 95; Helena Independent, February 6, 1887; undated newspaper clipping, Detroit Free Press, in Lily Haynes' scrapbook, Haynes Coll., 28. Helena Independent, January 19, 1887. MSUSC.

This content downloaded by the authorized user from 192.168.52.75 on Fri, 7 Dec 2012 11:43:02 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions taken their toll. Whateverthe problem and its cause, primary photographic objects and could only look Schwatka could not continue; the leader had fallen. skyward in hopes that the snow would end, the With Brackett, the guide Baronett who also com- clouds would race on, and enough light would return plained of maladies, and John Coho, he retraced the for good views of Old Faithful and other Upper Gey- route back to the Norris Hotel, while the others skied ser Basin features. The storm finally subsided on on to the Firehole.29 January15 and the skies cleared that night, dropping the temperature to -370 by morning. Haynes got his N O ONEKNEW if restcould restore Schwat- light the following day and he took spectacular ka's strength. Although the plan had been photos of the geysers. And as though the long wait to visit the Upper Geyser Basin, Yellow- was a test of his endurance, Haynes' reward was a stone Lakeand then the GrandCanyon before return- unique sight that he remembered the rest of his ing to Norris, Ross, Wadsworth, Bosse and other years-the simultaneous eruptions of Old Faithful, members of Schwatka's recruited entourage decided Giantess, Grand, Bee Hive and Castle Geysers. He to head back to Norris the next day, January 10. photographedone after the other as quickly as possi- Perhaps the lieutenant could rebound in a day or ble but just missed exposing a plate before Grand,the two. Haynes grew impatient with these develop- largest of the Park geysers, ceased eruption.32 ments. He could see his photographic mission to Up- Excited by the photographs he had taken on per Geyser Basin evaporating as surely as geyser January 16, Haynes remained part of the next day steam if he also returned to Norris and awaited the and then skied back to the Firehole Hotel and the end of Schwatka's illness. In a headstrong manner of hotel keeper James Dean and his wife. typical of both the lieutenant and himself, Haynes hospitality made his first expedition decision. Enlisting two of Haynes and his three companions rested there on the strongest men, CharlesStoddard and David Strat- January 18 before skiing on to Norris the next day. ton, and telephoning guide Ed Wilson to meet him at While Haynes had been hunkered down in the storm Upper Geyser Basin, Haynes left the group and skied at Upper Geyser Basin, Ross, Wadsworth, and an south to Old Faithful, while Ross and the others unknown number of others in the Schwatka group at headed for Norris.30 Norris skied over to Canyon with Al Thorne, one of Ross, whom all recognized as the ablest snowshoer the winterkeepers at the new Canyon Hotel, a on the expedition, led his group back to Norris as recently-constructed prefabricated building. Ross heavy weather rolled across the Yellowstone Plateau and the others spent at least a day and a night at Can- from the west. Some of his men, especially the slight- yon, probably January 16 and 17, and then headed ly overweight Bosse, struggled to make decent time back to Norris. Schwatka, evidently still in command on their skis in the -200 temperatures.At Norris, they of his group, tried to accompany them to Canyon on found little improvement in the lieutenant. By the web snowshoes, but he quickly lost his strength again following day, January11, the storm raged, confining and returned to Norris after negotiating only a few everyone to the hotel. Meanwhile, Haynes and his miles.33 two companions skied to their destination, the flimsy Schwatka's second collapse finished the expedi- and recently constructed "Shack" hotel near Old tion for him. He regained his strength sufficiently to Faithful. When Haynes arrived he found James ski back to Mammoth on January 18, but now he Roake, winterkeeper at Upper Geyser Basin, and his could count his expedition as nothing but a failure. family living near the hotel structurein a hastily-built He had never been denied his objective before and log cabin, which was all but buried in the ten-foot- that realization must have gnawed at him. Whether deep snow. Residing in the hotel in winter, Roakeex- Haynes knew when Schwatka and his party had left fire plained to Haynes, had been hopeless; building a Norris for Mammoth or that some of them had skied create in the poorly constructed hotel did little but over to Canyon is unclear. The Schwatka party may on- bone-chilling drafts. The Haynes party had taken have left a note for him or some other sign at Norris, now ly essentials along in their light packs and they but there is no evidence that Haynes knew of their had to borrow a tent from Roake for their own location or experiences when he arrived at Norris on shelter, which they set up near the warming effects January19. In fact it appears that Haynes never saw of Old Faithful.31 Schwatka again after the lieutenant's first failure The next four days must have been frustratingfor along the Gibbon River on January9.34 F. Jay Haynes. He slept within yards of one of his On January20, after a day of relaxation at Norris, Haynes, Stoddard, Stratton and Wilson headed over 32. Chicago Tribune, March 5, 1887; Fred Lockley to Jack E. Haynes, June 20, 1934, Haynes Coll., MSUSC. to Canyon. When they arrived at Canyon Hotel, Thorne and Major Lyman, the other winterkeeper, 33. Forest b Stream, April 28, 1887; James G. Ross to F. Jay Haynes, March 23, 1887, Haynes Coll., MSUSC; Helena Independent, January 19, 1887. were busy shovelling snow off the prefabricated

34. James G. Ross to F. Jay Haynes, March 23, 1887, Haynes Coll., MSUSC. building's roof, fearing that it might collapse. No

This content downloaded by the authorized user from 192.168.52.75 on Fri, 7 Dec 2012 11:43:02 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions doubt Thorne and Lymantold Haynes of the Schwat- station, some twenty miles to the north. They left that ka party's visit, but the photographer now had one sub-zero morning from Canyon with no blankets, thing on his mind-to be the first to photograph the compass, extra clothing or much food, save a few bis- Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and the magnifi- cuits and some chocolate. It was a matter of too cent Lower Falls in winter. The brilliant colors of the much confidence and not enough respect for the fer- Canyon were gone, covered by snow and ice, Haynes ocity of Yellowstone in winter, the same mistake later remarked,but sight of the ice-sheathed Lower Schwatka had made. "With our experience we were Falls stunned him. Skiing along the north rim of the getting to be experts on snowshoes," Haynes later Canyon, Haynes stopped near Point Lookout and wrote. But expertise on skis would mean little when a strapped on a pair of web snowshoes to hike down to blizzard obscured the way.36 Red Rock, where he took photographs of the iced The deep snow had alreadycovered the tree blazes, falls. A thick span of ice reached across the falls at leaving Haynes and Wilson with no way to follow the the top and, armor-like,it covered the rushing water East or Canyon Trail over Rowland Pass, the sum- underneathto nearly the bottom of the drop. Arching mer route they planned to follow from Canyon to over the falls pool at the Canyon floor stood a 75-foot- Tower Fall. The -210 clear weather subtly changed as high ice ramp that had been formed by the spray.35 the quartetskied past WashburnHot Springs and began their ascent of Mt. Washburn. Then, as is so common on the Yellowstone Plateau, the bad weather raced in from the west, bringing wind and snow. By noon, when they stopped to snack near Rowland H views AVINGCAPTURED the breathtaking Pass, expecting a relatively easy afternoon of skiing plates, Haynes on his fragile photographic ahead of them, the snow squalls turned to blizzard with his fellow snowshoers for left Canyon and all landmarks faded from view in a blinding on January23. They debated the returnto Mammoth, white-out. Struggling to find their way in the deep route to take. Should they ski back the twelve what snow and the steep and disorienting terrain, Haynes miles to Norris and then plod over the outward track and his fellows wandered, lost, for the remainder of MammothHot Springs and observe no new winter to the day. Their confidence wavered as they thought strike in a direct line by way of sights, or should they about the intensity of the previous storm just days Mt. BlacktailDeer Creek and GardnerFalls, or over earlier at the Upper Geyser Basin. There they had a Washburn and to Yancey's in Pleasant Valley? If tent, the warmth of Old Faithful and the Roakes' Haynes could have foreseen the events of the next cabin; now they were lost on Mt. Washburnnear the two days, it is unlikely that he would have chosen the edge of the Grand Canyon. perilous route he took over 10,243-foot Mt. Wash- That night Haynes and Wilson found a protective burn-a passage that had not been undertaken in arbor of small fir trees where they dug a snow pit winter before. But Haynes felt the challenge; he was with their skis and built a fire. Afraid to sleep, the not so different from Schwatka. men alternately told stories and hoped the dawn Haynes and his companions left Canyon unpre- would bring clear skies. The storm took no rest and pared, and why is still a mystery. Ed Wilson, the ex- January 24 looked worse. They hesitatingly contin- perienced Yellowstone guide and snowshoer, should ued their search for a way off the mountain and have known better; he knew how rapidly and mer- spent a second night in constant motion, this time cilessly Yellowstone's weather could change. If Wil- with the added handicap of no sleep and with danc- son cautioned Haynes, the photographerignored the ing, mirage-like images floating before their eyes. advice and they confidently got an early-morning They avoided the deceptive sleepiness associated start for their expected day-long journey to Yancey's with hypothermiaby staying awake, but in the dark- ness they could sense little but snow depth and changes in terrain. January25 brought clear weather 35. Helena Independent, February 6, 1887. Some accounts, notably the New two York World's of February 19, 1887 (which G. L. Henderson was certain and Haynes realized that they had travelled but was the work of Lt. Tutherly, although that seems very unlikely) had miles or so in disoriented circles during the preced- Haynes climbing down into the canyon and ascending the ice arch to take photographs of the Lower Falls. There is no documentation of Haynes do- ing this, nor did he ever make the claim himself. No photographs of the falls in winter from the Canyon floor are included in the views Haynes sold. 41. Helena Independent, February 6, 1887; Livingston Enterprise, February 5, 1887, New York World, February 19, 1887. 36. Chicago Tribune, March 5, 1887. 42. James G. Ross to F. Jay Haynes, March 23, 1887, Haynes Coll., MSUSC. 37. Forest 8 Stream, April 14, 1887; Chicago Tribune, March 5, 1887. 43. John Hyde to F. Jay Haynes, December 1, 1887, Haynes Coll., MSUSC. 38. James G. Ross to F. Jay Haynes, April 11, 1887, Haynes Coll., MSUSC. 44. Charles S. Fee to F. Jay Haynes, February 12, 1887, Haynes Coll., MSUSC. 39. Loa V. Snyder to May & Dot, January 30, 1887, Haynes Coll., MSUSC. 45. Schwatka was found dead on First Street in Portland near the Morrison 40. G. L. Henderson to F. Jay Haynes, February 10, 1887, Haynes Coll., Street Bridge on November 2, 1892. See front page obituary in New York MSUISC. Times, November 3, 1892.

This content downloaded by the authorized user from 192.168.52.75 on Fri, 7 Dec 2012 11:43:02 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions ing forty-eight hours, and were nearly where they us," Ross wrote Haynes in late March, "as it would had been when the blizzard hit. They oriented them- have made the tramping ever so much more inter- selves and struck another trail, just to the east of esting, and besides your knowledge of all points wor- Rowland Pass and on the edge of the Canyon, which thy of notice in the Park so large that much scenery took them to the head of Antelope Creekand a direct and information which we lost would have been se- track to Tower Fall. Reaching Tower Creek by early cured to us."42In fact, then, there had been two afternoon, Haynes skied on ahead of the rest of the expeditions in Yellowstone during January 1887, group and arrived at Yancey's by 3 p.m. After a day Schwatka's and Haynes'. of rest, they made their way easily to Mammoth, ar- The emphasis on the ordeal on Mt. Washburn is rivingon January27.37 understandable. Lecturer John L. Stoddard, and everyone else, knew a good adventure story when they heard one. But in the promotion of the tale and Haynes' spectacular photos in the Park, which were immediately in great demand, Schwatka's role and T. SCHWATKAand his force had no know- image suffered more than it should have. One of the L ledge of Haynes'perilous experience on Mt. NP's publicists, for example, insisted to Haynes that Washburn. "I did not hear of the adventure "It would not do to call them [Wilson, Charles Stod- on Mount Washburn,"James Ross wrote Haynes in dard, and Stratton] guides, for that would detract April, "but should be glad to receive a short descrip- from the credit that really belongs to you. . . "43 But tion of what took place. It must have been well worth then Schwatka did his cause little good by acting in a undergoing to come out none the worse and yet have haughty manner as he left the Park and causing Fee had such a narrow squeak for existence."38Schwat- some embarrassment.As Fee commented, "there is ka, Ross, Wadsworthand the others had caught what no use in 'crying over spilt milk,'. . . [but]if I ever get would be the last train that winter from Cinnabar,on an opportunityto even up there is a man [Schwatka] January24, arrivingat Livingstontwo days later after in Rock Island, Ill. that will know it, whether it is one I have a good train crews had cleared drifting snow off the tracks. or twenty years from now. pretty myself."44 The great explorer left the Parkand Montanawith lit- memory As much friction as might have developed after the tle to tell. There would be no series of stories in the expedition, and there was some, Haynes, Fee and the New York World with Henry Bosse's artwork nor others knew that without Schwatka there would have would there be any Haynes-illustratedarticle pub- been no Yellowstone Mid-WinterExpedition. He had lished in The Century.The explorer returned empty- planned it and it was his eye for publicity and adven- handed. ture that had made it attractive to Charles Fee and "Schwatka was a fraud and went back to the the NP. Schwatka went to Yellowstone at less than Hotel," Haynes' sister-in-lawwrote, "and staid while his full strength, probably suffering from the effects F.J. made the trip and led the men and got over 40 of of strenuous activity in unhealthful condi- sights. It will be another feather in his cap as Fee years five of the Yellowstone trip, at age thinks Schwatka immense... [but] he is a fraud."39 tions. Within years Schwatka died suddenly on a Portland, For F. Jay Haynes, his family, Charles Fee and the forty-three, on to markethis fabu- NP, and newspapers who were eager for stories Oregon, street.45Haynes went the Greatest about the howling winter on the plains, the Yellow- lous winter photographs, acquired "at to live out stone Mid-Wintertrip became the Haynes Expedi- Personal Peril to the Photographer,"and on the tion. Haynes had eclipsed Schwatka. G.L. Hender- his life as one of the great photographers and the master of photographing son, a friend of Haynes and the owner of the Cottage western frontier And the memory of what happened out Hotel at Mammoth, wrote a widely reprinted ac- Yellowstone. there in the fierce Yellowstone winter of 1887, to count of the expedition for the Helena Independent himself and to Lt. Frederick Schwatka, likely stayed that highlighted the heroics on Mt. Washburn and with him for the rest of his life. ^ mildly criticized Schwatka's failure. "I send you the Independent,"Henderson wrote Haynes, "You are the head and front of the Schwatka Expedition."40 That article, and others that followed in the spring of WILLIAML. LANG is editor of Montana the Magazine of 1887, justifiablymade Haynes the hero.41 But the em- WesternHistory and the co-authorwith Rex Myers of Mon- bellishments and puffery distorted the story. Haynes tana: Our Land and People. The author wishes to thank of Historical Society, Dr. Adam Lis had not taken over the expedition; he had gone off on Steven Hallberg Oregon of Portland, Oregon, HarriettS. Jeanes of Rock Island, Ill., his own, mostly out of frustration, to get the Dr. Robert Johnson of Montpelier, Vt., Minnie Paugh of photographshe desperately wanted-views he knew Montana State University, Dave Walter and Ed Nolan of would be profitableand of use to the NP. "I was very MontanaHistorical Society, and Lee Whittleseyof Gar- sorry that you were unable to finish out the trip with diner,Mt. for theirhelp in gatheringdata for this article.

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Above, in this posed view of some of the Schwatka expedition as they passed Obsidian Cliff, Lt. Frederick Schwatka leads the skiers south toward Norris. Clearly visible are the two small sleds carrying the expedition's lightened equipage. Below, one of the photos of Old Faithfulerupting, for which Haynes had waited patiently. This view captured the magical and breathtakingnature of Yellowstone in winter, and it was for views like this that Haynes willingly exposed himself to dangers and harsh conditions on the historic ski trip.

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Above, left, expedition sketch artist Henry Bosse stands in the sub-zero frost of Norris Geyser Basin. Bosse likely joined the expedition because he was a friend of Schwatka's father-in-law, Joseph Brackett.Above, right, part of the expedition at the Norris Hotel on January9. Schwatka is the fifth man in the direct line. Others are unidentified, but the third from the front is likely either David Strattonor CharlesStoddard, and man at front is probablyHenry Bosse. Below, in the Upper Geyser Basin on January16, the eruption of Castle Geyser, a view Haynes obtained after camping near Old Faithful and enduring the five-day storm.

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Above, winterkeepers at Canyon Hotel, with two of Haynes' group helping, shovel snow off the burdened roof, on January20 or 21, before the fateful trip to Yancey's. Below, the iced Lower Falls in the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone at -200. Haynes photographed it from Red Rock, down below the north rim of the Canyon. Haynes and his party (the figure in the photo is probablyEd Wilson) had hiked down to Red Rock using web snowshoes.

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Above, the Haynes party at Upper Geyser Basin, on January 16 or 17. Haynes leads, with probably Ed Wilson second and David Stratton and Charles Stoddard behind. The ski tracks show the side- poling technique used to step-and-glide on the long Norwegian skis. This photograph was probably taken by James Roake, winterkeeper at Old Faithful. Below, at Yancey's northwest of Tower Fall where Haynes, Wilson, Stratton, and Stoddard recuperated after their ordeal on Mt. Washburn. In this posed photo, Haynes stands in the lead, he and the others with the 40-pound packs they car- ried. Among other things, the packs contained the photographer's camera and valuable glass plates.

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