Color Psychology and Textile Aesthetic
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Feature Colors of the Future: Color Psychology and Textile Aesthetic By Nicola Davies 40 | AATCC Review Vol. 15, No. 4 July/August 2015 Feature Colors of the Future: Color Psychology and Textile Aesthetic sychological assessment of the aesthetic Pvalue of textiles is subjective and can vary according to warmth, physical sensations, social perceptions, body image,1 seasonal experiences, and pressure comfort.2 However, the visual senses have a universal impact on determining aesthetics, particularly with regards to color. July/August 2015 Vol. 15, No. 4 AATCC Review | 41 Feature Cultural and Physical Wealthier people often prefer more complex and sophisticated tertiary colors. Also, well-educated Influences of Color Choices people are more likely to choose tertiary colors as Color psychology isn’t a science that can be quanti- well as colors with unusual names. For example, fied with precision. For every color, there is both a aubergine is a color featured in trend forecasts for psychological and physiological impact as well as 2015—definitely a sophisticated color with its rich subjective meanings experienced by individuals. hues, incorporating shades of purple. Without any environmental influences, there are When asked if cultural color choices are being certain universal responses to some colors, such as eroded due to increased exposure to global trends, red for stimulating the mind and increasing blood Ela Dedhia, associate professor at Nirmala Niketan pressure—translating to feelings of aggression or Home Science Department of Textiles & Fashion passion; and blue for calming the mind and lowering Technology, associated with the University of Mum- the blood pressure—instilling feelings of tranquility bai, said, “This is true to some extent, but not really 3 and peace. in traditional functions and occasions in India. However, the experience a particular person has of a People still prefer the traditional colors in India for color may create different emotional and psychologi- marriages and festivals.” In Hindu beliefs, the color cal associations that alter these perceptions. While pink is popular, being associated with the heart red may be a warm color of passion to some, if a chakra, thus representing the qualities of compas- person had been traumatized by someone wear- sion, nurturing, and love. In the West, however, pink ing red clothing then their subjective reaction to represents youth, femininity, and innocence and its it won’t be favorable and would produce feelings Eastern spiritual significance isn’t appreciated to the of fear or anxiety instead. In India, for example, same extent. where red is the color for wedding clothing, a bride Asked whether global eco-awareness was having might not be happy about wearing the culturally an impact on fashion, Dedhia said, “Awareness is prescribed choice of red if she had been traumatized picking up very slowly; however, it will have more by someone wearing red and had developed negative impact gradually.” associations with that color. One thing that is scientifically quantified is the Environmental Influences of wavelength of a particular color. Red is in the 700 Color Choices range, while blue is in the 450 to 500 wavelength Dedhia believes in the validity that humans sub- range, measured in nanometers.4 As wavelengths consciously reflect their environment in their color of light strike the eye retina, they are converted to choice, mentioning as an example, “Bright colors are electrical impulses and sent to the hypothalamus— worn in desert areas of Rajasthan and Kutch in India.” the part of the brain that stores behavioral patterns, sexual functions, and appetite, among other things. The colorful clothing with hues of red, orange, This means that color has energy and can therefore green, blue, and yellow seen at marketplaces under have physical effects. In various experiments, blind the bright African sun would seem totally foreign people taken into a red room and then a blue room to a Londoner accustomed to color choices involv- maintained at precisely the same physical tempera- ing the neutral colors of black, grey, charcoal, and ture, are able to distinguish the red one as warmer shades of burgundy and navy blue. This selection due to the physical energy of the color. also carries over to central European countries 42 | AATCC Review Vol. 15, No. 4 July/August 2015 Are you missing your magazine? Did your magazine arrive damaged? Please contact us for replacements or to order back issues. Bliss Coleman; telephone +1.919.549.3543; email [email protected] ® R e v i e w Vol. 12, No. 6 November/December 2012 AATCCAssociation of Textile, Apparel & Materials Professionals Current research: • Low-Level, Uniform Ultrasound Field Effects on Enzymatic Bio- processing of Greige Cotton Using Three Fabric Weights • Evaluating Dimensional Change in Are you missing Home Laundry Nanofibers— your magazine? Bridging the Chasm from Research to Industry Comfort Zone Sustainability Drives Innovation in Insulation Technologies Performance Features: Consumers’ Expectations Versus Retail Realities Evaluation of Hand-held Force Gauges vs. Laboratory Tensile Tester Did your magazine arrive damaged? Please contact us for replacements or to order back issues. Bliss Coleman; telephone +1.919.549.3543; email [email protected] July/August 2015 Vol. 15, No. 4 AATCC Review | 43 Feature such as Germany and Switzerland. In Scandinavia, Indigo’s third color story, “Buoyant,” reflects the color choices include blue, white, and clear yellows, current global mood of cautious optimism. Bright reflecting the brightness of spring in the country. and light hues are used—but in subdued tints and tones—offset with neutral colors to lower the In Asia, orange has positive connotations, being a overall intensity. No basic primaries are used here. color linked to spiritual enlightenment (witness the Lenzing’s “Borderless” color story, with shades of saffron robes of Buddhist monks), success, and posi- red, greys, and blues ranging from pale to intense tivity, whereas in the West this color isn’t as favored azure, is quite similar. in fashion; rather, safety vests come in bright orange! The original 1960’s palette of rust brown, olive green, Forecasting Color Stories and a tint of orange offset with paler greens, is the Color forecasting evaluates and analyses the colors “Tangram” by Lenzing. However, its current incarna- that consumers will find favorable up to two years tion is far more sophisticated in the tints, tones, and ahead of the season. These “color stories” are sold shades used to modify the basic colors. In the British to the textile industry and retail companies so that Colours and Textiles forecast for 2015/16,their color production of textiles proceeds according to sched- story “Strata” also references these earth tones.7 ule. Companies may give their color stories different So, is color trend forecasting a big gamble, or a names, but the palette is quite consistent across the blend of research and intuition? Trend forecasters various players. make it their business to know what is inspiring Indigo, New York, a show catering to the North top designers, to assess what is trending in popu- American textile industry, reveals one of the trends lar culture, observe past patterns in color choices, for 2015—“Chiaroscuro,” an Italian word indicating watch economic trends, and do their best to gauge contrasts of light and shadow used for heightened the mood of the general populace. Generally, if the impact in art. Applied to textile aesthetics, it refer- mood is buoyant, selected colors for the season will ences Renaissance art, notably the work of Leonardo be lighter. In times of gloom, the palette will tend da Vinci. The palette comprises shades of old gold, to be darker. Consumer buying patterns, as well as copper, teal blue, and a deep red. The contrast street fashion, is closely observed by the forecasters. of black and white is offset with shades of grey.5 In addition, retailers who are closest to the consum- “Allegory,” the color palette from Lenzing Interior er will feed purchasing data back to manufacturers textiles, is similar, since it also references Renais- who in turn report what is happening with forecast- sance artwork and the romance colors associated ers. It’s an endless process of information constantly with fairytales.6 being assessed, refined, and calculated. Indigo’s “Romany” palette appeals to the inner gypsy Forecasters also consider reactions to historical spirit, with clear colors deriving inspiration from the events of the time, and make references to past brightly painted wagons and embroidered textiles fashion styles. Magazine articles and television of the gypsies who roamed across Europe. Shades programs that focus on trends for the season ahead of red and orange are complemented with blues may then influence the buying habits of consum- and greens. To offset the plethora of bright colors, ers. The final say, however, is in the hands of the charcoal greys, navy blues and pale yellows are also consumers, whose buying decisions will determine included. Lenzing call this palette “Challenge” as the the accuracy of the forecasters. At the end of season colors are assertive and bold. sales, it is easy to spot the flops—those colors piled 44 | AATCC Review Vol. 15, No. 4 July/August 2015 high on discount racks and tables.The International References Colour Authority (ICA) produces biannual forecasts 1. Chattaraman, V.; Rudd, N. A. Preferences for Aesthetic of color trends for fashion, interiors, and exteriors. Attributes in Clothing as a Function of Body Image, Body The panel comprises members of international Cathexis and Body Size. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 2006, 24, pp 46-61. textile and paint companies as well as professional 2. Hunter, L.; Fan, J. Improving the Comfort of Garments. consultants. Interestingly, their names are never In Textiles and Fashion: Materials, Design and Technology; disclosed. By including Pantone and Natural Colour Sinclair, R., Ed.