Mexican Lager

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® MEXICAN LAGER

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hen I recently wrote about be drinking IPA.” (To me, that’s as of- grisette being a type of fensive as if I had said to her, “You’re a saison, I hadn’t expected woman, you should be drinking a fruit to write a similar column beer” – which I didn’t.) aboutW lagers but I keep getting ques- I explained that I had been drink- tions that spark my interest. This time, ing nothing but IPAs for the last three As with beers in the the question was about Mexican lager, days, it was hot, and I was looking to a style that has gotten a fair amount of try something different. Not satisfied, United States, Mexican interest over the last few years. I first Ms. Know-It-All proceeded to lecture saw it in San Diego at several brew- me about beer styles. I must have beers used adjuncts for pubs, and thought it was a cool idea to been smirking when she stopped and do a craft spin on a classic beach beer. wanted to know what was so funny. If cost purposes. However, Then I found some canned commercial you know me, you know I would never in Mexico corn is king, so versions like Ska’s Mexican Logger and say, “Do you know who I am?” but that 21st Amendment’s El Sully (both are was what I was thinking. However, I there is a tradition of corn muy excelente). And then it seemed ev- just said, “If you’re not proud of that eryone was jumping on the bandwagon beer, then why are you selling it?” That being used in the grist. and it was a new summer seasonal. At shut her up, but it made me think about the risk of following a trend, I would the problem with beer snobbery and like to use this style as a vehicle to talk these more humble styles. Craft is craft, INTERNATIONAL PALE LAGER about three different topics. and should be embraced. BY THE NUMBERS The first topic is how brewers can The third topic is about how the OG: ...... 1.042–1.050 look for creativity in the most un- BJCP Style Guidelines have changed FG:...... 1.008–1.012 usual places. Rather than chasing the between 2008 and 2015. In 2008, there SRM:...... 2-6 next rainbow IPA, some brewers pick was a Premium American Lager style IBU:...... 18-25 a mundane style and elevate it. Take that essentially combined the high- the humble Mexican lager, sometimes end American industrial brands (think ABV: ...... 4.6–6.0% thought of as either “that beer with Michelob) and the mass-market inter- a lime in it” or “what you order with national styles (think Heineken). But nachos.” Giving it the same attention to that was an imperfect match and the detail and careful selection of ingre- commercial styles kept drifting further dients can actually give it an upscale apart. So in 2015, the guidelines sepa- twist without losing its soul. I’ll talk rated these styles, combined Premium about this more later. American Lager with Standard Ameri- The second topic is how people can Lager to create American Lager treat some styles. I mentioned first (BJCP Category 1B), and created a new seeing this beer in San Diego when International Pale Lager (BJCP Category there for the National Homebrewers 2A). The major difference is that the Conference. I was at The Lost Abbey, a International Pale Lagers have more brewery I greatly respect, when I saw bitterness and can have more flavor. their Amigo Mexican Lager listed on The Mexican lager we are discussing the Port Brewing board. I was intrigued can straddle those two 2015 catego- at what a great craft brewery would do ries, but I think the craft-type examples with that style so I ordered it. But then are more likely to be at home in the I was berated by a woman who worked International Pale Lager style, unless there, who apparently thinks very they are at the lower end of bitterness, highly of herself as a beer expert, who alcohol strength, and flavor. I do want Photo by Charles A. Parker/Images Plus Parker/Images A. Charles by Photo said, “You’re in San Diego, you should to point out the obvious, which is that

1 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved MEXICAN LAGER Ferment at 50 °F (10 °C) until (5 gallons/19 L, all-grain) complete. At this point it is recom- OG = 1.049 FG = 1.011 mended to remove the beer from the IBU = 19 SRM = 3.5 ABV = 5% yeast cake by either tranferring to a secondary vessel purged of oxygen INGREDIENTS or gently racking trying to avoid 3 lbs. 8 oz. (1.6 kg) German Pilsner oxidation as best as possible. If your malt fermenter has a yeast dump valve, 2 lbs. (907 kg) US 2-row malt you can simply remove the yeast 2 lbs. (907 kg) German Vienna malt through the bottom valve. Lager for 2 lbs. 12 oz. (1.25 kg) flaked maize 4 to 8 weeks at 32 °F (0 °C). Rack the 1.5 AAU Tettnanger hops beer, prime and bottle condition, or (first wort hop) (0.33 oz./9 g at keg and force carbonate. 4.5% alpha acids) 3 AAU Tettnanger hops (45 min.) (0.76 oz./19g at 4.5% alpha acids) MEXICAN LAGER 0.5 oz (14 g) Tettnanger hops (5 gallons/19 L, extract only) (5 min.) OG = 1.049 FG = 1.011 White Labs WLP940 (Mexican Lager) IBU = 19 SRM = 3.5 ABV = 5% or Lallemand Diamond Lager yeast INGREDIENTS 7 ⁄8 cup corn sugar (if priming) 4.9 lbs. (2.2 kg) pale liquid malt extract STEP BY STEP 1.8 lbs. (816 g) Brewers corn syrup On brew day, prepare your ingredi- 1.5 AAU Tettnanger hops ents; mill the grains, measure your (first wort hop) (0.33 oz./9 g at hops, and prepare your water. This 4.5% alpha acids) recipe uses reverse osmosis (RO) 3 AAU Tettnanger hops (45 min.) 1 water. Add ⁄4 tsp 10% phosphoric (0.76 oz./19g at 4.5% alpha acids) acid per 5 gallons (19 L) of brewing 0.5 oz (14 g) Tettnanger hops water, or until water measures pH (5 min.) 5.5 at room temperature. Add 1 tsp. White Labs WLP940 (Mexican Lager)

calcium chloride (CaCl2) salt to or Lallemand Diamond the mash. Lager yeast 7 Mash in the malts and corn at 149 ⁄8 cup corn sugar (if priming) °F (65 °C) in 14 qts. (13 L) of water, and hold this temperature STEP BY STEP for 60 minutes. Raise the tempera- Use 6 gallons (23 L) of water in the ture by infusion or direct heating brew kettle; heat to 158 °F (70 °C). to 168 °F (76 °C) to mashout. Add the malt extract and corn syrup Recirculate for 15 minutes. Fly and stir thoroughly to dissolve sparge with 168 °F (76 °C) water completely. You do not want to feel until 6.5 gallons (24.5 L) of wort liquid extract at the bottom of the is collected. kettle when stirring with your spoon. Boil the wort for 75 minutes, add- Turn the heat back on, add the FWH ing the hops at times indicated in hop addition, and bring to a boil. the recipe. The first wort hops get Boil the wort for 60 minutes, add- added to the kettle after lautering ing the hops at times indicated in but before a boil is reached. After the recipe. Chill to 50 °F (10 °C) and the boil is complete, chill the wort rack to the fermenter. down to 50 °F (10 °C) and rack to Follow the remainder of the all- the fermenter. grain recipe for fermentation and Oxygenate, then pitch the yeast. packaging instructions.

2 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved I’m saying that Mexican lager is a kind back towards its European roots. fermentation by-products such as a of International Pale Lager but not all light apple fruitiness. Mexican lagers International Pale Lagers are Mexican SENSORY PROFILE are clean, though. As lagers, all these lagers. That is, I see Mexican lager as The BJCP style profile for International beers should be smooth on the palate. a subset of International Pale Lager. Pale Lager is quite broad, but it is en- The dryness and higher carbonation If you are entering it in a competition, compassing the premium mass-market levels can give it a bite in the finish, it might be helpful to note “craft-type lagers from most countries. The craft but Mexican lagers tend to have a Mexican lager” in the comments so interpretation of Mexican lager fits restrained bite. The aftertaste is typi- judges will understand your intent. nicely within that description but can cally clean, with a little malt flavor and be viewed more narrowly since it will sometimes a light hop flavor. HISTORY almost always feature corn in the grist, While the alcohol level in an In- To understand the Mexican lager style, and tends to use a neutral yeast. ternational Pale Lager can go as high you have to look to the origin of the International Pale Lagers are pale as 6% ABV, most are in the 5% range. I Mexican lager brewing. Here it’s best in color (straw to gold), tend to be think the Mexican lager works best in to just refer to the Vienna style since highly carbonated, and are normally the 4.5% to 5.5% range; I often make Austrian immigrants helped build the quite clear. The head is typically white it towards the lower end of the range Mexican brewing industry, and produce in color, but may not have great reten- when I expect to be drinking it in the some great amber lagers. Since I’m not tion. The Mexican lagers are often middle of the summer. talking about Vienna, I won’t recount deeper in color, more in the gold range. the full story of Anton Dreher, Napoleon The aroma of an International Pale BREWING INGREDIENTS III, Maximilian I, Santiago Graf, Negra Lager has a lightly malty impression AND METHODS Modelo, and the fusing of Old World (low to medium-low) with a grainy The grist for a Mexican lager is mostly traditions with New World ingredients. or neutral malty quality. The Mexican lightly-kilned base malts with some- It’s a similar story to Pilsner-type beers lager adds a corny sweetness as well where between 10 and 40% corn. The being developed in the United States (which may be in some of the Inter- base malts can be a mix of 2-row, in the late 1800s, however. national Pale Lagers, but usually at a 6-row, Pilsner malt, and Vienna malt. As with beers in the United States, lower level). International Pale Lagers The quality of the malt will have a Mexican beers used adjuncts for cost often have a light hop aroma, typically large impact on flavor, so continental purposes. However, in Mexico corn is featuring noble-type hops that have a malts are often found in the ‘upgrade’ king, so there is a tradition of corn be- floral or spicy character. This is also the versions. I personally prefer German ing used in the grist. Barley is widely case with Mexican lager – its European malts in this type of beer, but if I was grown, but in modern times (post- roots call for quality European aroma using a low percentage of corn I might NAFTA, anyway), most of the barley for hops. International Pale Lagers can use some more neutral North American Mexico’s brewing industry comes from have a varied yeast profile, often with 2-row. I wouldn’t use 6-row unless I the United States and Canada. light fermentation byproducts, but was using a very high percentage of The modern (pale) Mexican lager Mexican lagers are fairly clean. corn and was worried about fully con- follows in the general industrialization International Pale Lagers are crisp, verting the starches. story of brewing, with beers becom- dry, and well-attenuated. The malt The percentage of corn will also ing lighter and less flavorful as they flavor matches the aroma, and can be have an impact on flavor and quality. appealed to a broader market. The neutral, grainy, lightly malty-sweet, or The higher the percentage, the more modern Mexican lagers have their crackery. Mexican lagers have a similar dominant the corn flavor will become, roots in the 1920s, and have a similar profile, but bring in a corny sweetness and the less forward the malt char- global story of expansion and even- and flavor. I mentioned sweet and acter. Corn can come in many forms, tual control by international brewing dry so some explanation is necessary but flaked maize is often the most conglomerates who heavily market the – the beers have the impression of convenient for brewers since it can be beers and dominate retail distribution. sweetness on the palate but finish dry. mashed along with the barley malt. If Mexico didn’t have a prohibition period, Bitterness is medium-low to medium using flaked maize, freshness is very so the consolidation of their brewing with the balance generally being malty important since old maize often has an industry took place earlier than in the to even between malt and bitterness, oxidized fatty flavor that is unappeal- United States. Currently, two conglom- although some European examples are ing. I personally prefer to go some- erates dominate the Mexican brewing lightly bitter in the balance. Mexican where in the middle, around 20-25% of industry. lagers tend to be even to lightly malty. the grist. As with many countries throughout Hop flavors are low to moderate with For extract brewers, choices are the world, there is a surging craft beer spicy, floral, or herbal notes. more difficult since flaked maize must movement in Mexico. However, the The fermentation flavors can vary be mashed. I suppose if you want the Mexican lager described here is more in an International Pale Lager, with flavor of the corn but don’t care about of a United States craft take on the a neutral fermentation profile being clarity, you can steep the maize before classic Mexican lager, perhaps looking most common, to expressing some adding the malt extract but this will

3 Best of Brew Your Own Magazine © Battenkill Communications, Inc. All Rights Reserved give you a starch haze (you’ll need to ished beer shouldn’t have a minerally this yeast, try a clean German yeast increase the pale malt extract to com- flavor. I avoid calcium sulfate (gypsum) like Wyeast 2124 (Bohemian Lager), pensate for the loss of fermentables since it often clashes with noble hops, WLP830 (German Lager), Lallemand from the corn). . You can sometimes find Brewers play up the malt in the balance and If you enter this in a competition, Corn Syrup, which is different than the give it a softer, wetter finish. try the BJCP 2A International Pale Karo brand (or similar) Corn Syrups in Lager category but specify that you are grocery stores (avoid those; they have HOMEBREW EXAMPLE making a craft Mexican lager. high-fructose corn syrup and additional I’m going mid-range with the corn, flavorings like vanilla). A pale malt keeping it at about 25% of the grist, extract made from Pilsner-type malts while using a blend of Pilsner, US would be appropriate for the rest of 2-row, and Vienna for the remain- the fermentables. der. I’m using Vienna for tradition, to Mashing for attenuation is the help maintain the ties to the original name of the game. If you are using a Mexican lagers, but also to give it a single infusion mash, go for something little more color. Pilsner malt carries in the 149–151 °F (65–66 °C) range. the largest percentage of the grist, with A German-style step mash would also the US 2-row being used to dilute the work; I tend to use rests at 131 °F/35 flavor a bit. Yes, I’m afraid of using all °C, 145 °F/63 °C, and 158 °F/70 °C for German malts and making it too malty, a beer like this. I don’t think a decoc- and I do want some of that corn char- tion mash is necessary because you are acter to come through. not looking for extra flavor develop- I’m shooting for a 5% beer with ment and color from this process. around 20 IBUs, which should make it German or Czech hops that are as- an easy-drinking lawnmower type beer. sociated with European lagers would The hops are all Tettnanger, which I be most appropriate for this style, but it like for its spicy quality. Hallertauer or shouldn’t have a heavy hopping. I like other noble-type hops would work as to have a noticeable hop aroma and well. If you were trying to be exces- flavor, and between 18 and 25 IBUs. sively cute (which I’m not…), you could Hop varieties like Tettnanger, Haller- look for hop varieties that have a light tauer, and Saaz would be appropriate, lime zest character. I’m using first-wort as would US-grown alternatives like hopping for flavor, and a light finish- Sterling, Santiam, Vanguard, Liberty, or ing hop addition for aroma. Balance Crystal. I would pick the freshest hops the bittering addition to hit around 20 from that list regardless of the country IBUs, and you’re good to go. of origin. Dry hopping isn’t expected I’ll mash at 149 °F (65 °C) for atten- in a style like this, but if you use it, use uation without being excessively dry. I a light hand (a half ounce of hops or want the beer to retain some body, but less). I don’t want to add crystal malts, other There is a special yeast that can be flaked grains, Carapils®, or the like. I’ll used in this style, White Labs WLP940 use a light water salt treatment keep- Mexican Lager yeast. It really does suit ing with calcium chloride to give it a this style well and has an unmistak- softer finish. I don’t like adding gypsum able flavor that I associate with the in most lagers since it can accentuate style. However, this yeast isn’t widely the sulfur flavor and aroma. available so you may have to substitute I consider the yeast (along with the a neutral lager strain. Avoid yeast that corn) as being the key components in throw a lot of sulfur, have apple-like this recipe. My choice is White Labs byproducts, or that otherwise aren’t WLP940 (Mexican Lager), which has clean. Ferment cool and lager suffi- a unique flavor that I associate with ciently to allow the beer to smooth out commercial beers there. I wish I had a and to reduce any green flavors (i.e., better descriptor, but once you taste it, a traditional lager fermentation and you will recognize it. Normal fermenta- conditioning process). tion regime for me, 50 °F (10 °C) for The water profile should be rela- primary fermentation and lager at near tively neutral for this style, as the fin- freezing (32 °F/0 °C). If you can’t get

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