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CONTENTS

TRAILS

Changes in the 4th Edition — 6 Hwy. 68 (W end of Sibbald Creek Trail) – 18 Acknowledgements — 6 Map of — 7 Hwy. 40 (Kananaskis Trail) – 26 Kananaskis Country — 8 What to Expect — 9 Kananaskis Lakes Trail (N end) – 162 Facilities — 11 Camping — 12 Info — 13 Elk Lakes Provincial Park – 175 Using the Book — 14 Area map — 16 Kananaskis Lakes Trail (W end) – 185 Maps — 309 Index of trails — 318 Contacts — 320 Hwy. 742 (Smith-Dorrien Valley) – 233 Introduction

ing a lot more country (over 4000 square KANANASKIS COUNTRY kilometres) and a lot more development, with facilities for every conceivable out- THE NAME door sport. Since the last edition the whole world Many people forget that Kananaskis has learned to pronounce the name Country has always been multi-use, mean- ‘Kananaskis’: CTV’s Lloyd Robertson, US ing it is open to logging, cattle grazing and president Bush, British prime minister oil and gas exploration. Tony Bair, Russian president Vladimir Putin. One wonders what explorer John LOCATION Palliser would have thought of it all. K Country is located on the eastern slopes The strange name dates back to 1858 of the , west and south of when Palliser named the pass he was the Olympic city of , . From about to cross ‘Kananaskis’ …after the the city outskirts the eastern boundary is name of an Indian, of whom there is a only a 20-minute drive away. legend, giving an account of his most The western boundary adjoins Banff wonderful recovery from the blow of an National Park, then runs down the Conti- axe which had stunned but had failed to nental Divide. The northern boundary is kill him, and the river which flows through delineated by Hwy. 1A and the fringe com- this gorge also bears his name. Possibly munities of , Dead Man Flat and the Indian in question was the great Cree Canmore. The eastern boundary coincides Koominakoos who lost an eye and part neatly with the Bow-Crow Forest reserve of his scalp in a battle with the Blackfoot boundary, while the southern boundary is in the Willow Creek area, but made a mi- marked by Hwy. 732. raculous recovery and showed up at Fort some weeks later …ready to GETTING THERE take to the warpath again. Calgary is served by major airlines, sev- eral bus companies and by train from the THE CONCEPT east. Greyhound buses run west along Today, the Kananaskis Passes, Kananaskis the Trans- Highway to Canmore, Lakes and the form the but stops are infrequent. That’s it as far as heart of Kananaskis Country (or K Country public transportation goes. You need a car. as it is more commonly called), a provin- The core area described in Volume 1 cial area owned by Albertans is usually accessed from the Trans- and established on October 7, 1977, to … Canada Highway via Hwy. 40. It can also alleviate congestion in National Parks, be reached from the town of Longview and to provide greater recreation oppor- on Hwy. 22 via Hwys. 541 and 40 over tunities for Albertans. . Another way in is along Let’s give credit to architect Bill Milne, Hwy. 68 from the Trans-Canada or via who got the ball rolling. Alberta premier Hwy. 742 from Canmore. and Clarence Copithorne, The northern portion of Elk Lakes Pro- then minister of highways, quickly came vincial Park is most often reached from on board and a new Hwy. 40 was built. Peter Lougheed Provincial Park on foot. Their vision for the Kananaskis Valley The alternative is to drive to on was one of strenuous physical outdoor Hwy. 3, then take Hwy. 43 north to . activity accessible from a good road but From Elkford a gravel road follows the Elk with minimal services. As we all know, River Valley to the park entrance. that simple idea turned into a grand plan called Kananaskis Country, encompass-

8 Introduction

WEATHER TRENDS WHAT TO EXPECT Generally, the season starts in April in a few valleys at the north end of Hwy. Volume 1 centres on the Kananaskis Riv- 40. The Smith-Dorrien and Kananaskis er Valley and its tributary Smith-Dorrien Lakes area starts to open up much later, Creek, most of which now lies within around the beginning of July. May is often Peter Lougheed and Spray Valley pro- a dry month, with rains starting in June. vincial parks. At the junction of the The flower months of July and August are two rivers lies the heart of K Country at the best for big trips, but be aware of late Kananaskis Lakes. afternoon thunderstorms should that be Radiating out from the lakes are a the trend that particular year. Indian sum- number of passes: Highwood Pass, which mers through September and October can carries the highest paved highway in be glorious. The mornings may be cold but Canada, , which leads over to the sunny, stable weather is a relief and the Elk Lakes Provincial Park in BC, and the larches may have turned. infamous North and South Kananaskis As in any mountain areas, snow can passes to the west. fall in any month of the year. In the rotten A large portion of the mid-Kananaskis summer of 1992, for instance, snow fell Valley is taken up by the Evan-Thomas on three consecutive weekends through Provincial Recreation Area, which fea- late July into mid-August. Conversely, the tures , Ski summer of 1994 was consistently hot with Area, Ribbon Creek ski trails, Kananaskis the temperatures hovering around the mid- Country Golf Course and Boundary 30s. At such times the area can be locked Ranch. Farther up the valley is Fortress down to prevent forest fires. Generally, Ski Resort (closed at time of writing). low cloud is not the problem it is in other, The Fisher and Opal Ranges lining wetter ranges of the world and navigating the east side of the valley are good for by compass is an unusual event. exploratory trips up canyons and along rocky ridges. NATURAL HISTORY IN A NUTSHELL Separating the Smith-Dorrien and I urge you to buy the appropriate field Kananaskis valleys is the Kananaskis guides or Ben Gadd’s all-in-one Handbook Range, which offers something for every of the Canadian Rockies. level of hiker: numerous lakes within cirques, meadows and passes, easy as- Mammals Most commonly seen: big- cents and classic ridgewalks, Mt. Allan be- horn sheep along Hwy. 40, moose along ing the prime example. Logging roads of- Hwy. 742, mule deer, elk, black bear and ten give access. In fact, the Smith-Dorrien grizzlies, which frequently close down the and Mt. Shark ski and bike trail systems Bill Milne bike path. Grizzlies most often are based on the old roads. frequent the valleys on either side of the In the west along the Great Divide, Smith-Dorrien Valley, the high passes to the K Country scenery reaches its zenith: the west and the area about Highwood high peaks (up to 3449 m on Mt. Joffre), Pass and trail. Less com- glaciers, waterfalls, extensive alpine monly seen are wolves, goats, lynx (main- meadows, lakes, boisterous streams and ly in winter), and cougars at the north end old-growth forest. This is the scenario for of the valley. In the wet valley bottoms are the Canadian Rockies’ most spectacular muskrats, beavers and the odd river otter. backpack, the exciting Northover traverse. Other critters include porcupines, ground This volume also covers the north end and tree squirrels, and chipmunks, picas of Elk Lakes Provincial Park, which is and marmots among the rocks. known for its lakes and B.C. bush.

9 Introduction

Birds Most common: whiskey jacks (the Conversely, creeks running west towards ones that gather around when you stop to Hwy. 742 and Hwy. 40 are much smaller eat), Clark’s nutcrackers, hummingbirds and manageable. (wear red), ravens, thrushes, chickadees, Caribbean water it is not, as Anthony kingfishers, owls, grouse in the forest, Hopkins found out during the filming of ptarmigans up in the alpine, loons on the The Edge. If cold water makes you feel sick lakes and various waterfowl in the valley to your stomach, wear neoprene bootiees. wetlands. Dippers are common in fast run- ning creeks. Golden eagle counting occurs Bears and other beasts At all times be during spring and fall migrations around aware of bears, but particularly in early the Ribbon Creek area. spring after hibernation and in fall when the berries ripen. Most of the area described in this book is a high bear area. Many hik- Fish Trout in the lakes, which are stocked ers carry a bear repellent and bear bangers annually. Bull trout spawn at the mouth where they can reach them in a hurry. of Smith-Dorrien Creek. In the paranoia over bears we often for- get that elk and moose should be given a Vegetation Trees range through fire suc- wide berth too, especially in spring when cession lodgepole pine in the east to with young and in fall during the mating spruce and fir mixed with larch in the season when males get very ornery. Lately west. Balsam poplar grows in the more cougars have become a year-round worry. arid valley bottoms of the Fisher Range and are associated with dryas flats. Hunters Hunting is allowed outside the For too brief a time alpine meadows provincial parks and provincial recre- and grassy ridges are crammed with ation areas, being a prime flowers in July and August. In particular, example, but generally the area covered by overseas visitors will be intoxicated by the Volume 1 is not a big hunting area. gaudy colours of North America’s Indian paintbrush. Glacier lilies cover glades Ticks Between about March and mid- near treeline. June (and in certain areas right through Nibble on strawberries, raspberries, to November) ticks are abroad and are gooseberries and blackcurrants. found mainly in areas where there are lots of sheep. HAZARDS & NUISANCES R iver crossings T h e o n c e w i l d Loose rock In Calgary an insurance Kananaskis River is part of the Bow company’s ad on a billboard once read River’s hydro-electric scheme. Flow is “As firm as the Rockies,” which made me no longer controlled by seasonal varia- laugh aloud. The Rotten Rockies aren’t tions, but by the touch of a button, which called that for nothing, the sedimentary has led to a few people getting benighted limestone being subject to extremes of on the opposite bank. Upstream of heat and cold. Of course there is firm lime- Kananaskis Lakes this glacier-fed river stone, but it’s safer to expect the worse. and its tributaries can be impassable for On pitches, develop the tech- much of the season. nique for pushing handholds back into Smith-Dorrien Creek and the Elk place. Be particularly aware of rockfall in River in BC are impassable during spring gullies. You will run into scree — lots of it. runoff and after prolonged heavy rain Utilize game trails where the scree is more as are many creeks running east from stabilized and watch for the occasional the Divide and the . bounding rock from people above you.

10 Introduction

Fortress Junction gas station sells gas, FACILITIES snacks, groceries, camping supplies, books and gifts, fabulous ice cream cones Hwy. 40 (Kananaskis Trail) and has a cash machine. Open year-round. The Stoney Nakoda Resort Casino has Mt. Kidd RV Park has a snack bar, a hotel and three eateries. Peaks Cafe is groceries and hot tubs. open for breakfast at 7 a.m. Closes at 9 p.m. The Ridge Buffet is open 5–8 p.m. Kananaskis Lakes Trail/Road daily. Sunday brunch goes from 10:30 a.m. The Peter Lougheed Visitor Centre dis- to 2 p.m. Sidelines Lounge (full menu) is penses information and has a comfort- open until midnight Sun–Thurs and until able lounge to relax in. The displays are 2 a.m. Fri–Sat. a must see. Information Centre is William Watson Lodge offers accom- open Mon to Thurs 9 a.m.–4 p.m.; Fri to modation and a campground specifically Sun 9 a.m.–5 p.m. for seniors and the disabled. Sundance Lodges offers unique accom- Boulton Creek Trading Post has a bistro modation in tipis and trappers tents. Bring and grocery storeand rents road bikes. Bis- your own bedding and cooking supplies tro is open mid-May to mid-June (Thurs- or rent. Attached is a coin laundrey, small Sun 11 a.m.–7 p.m.), then mid-June to grocery store and gift shop. Open mid- Labour Day (daily 11 a.m.–7 p.m.). Store May to near the end of September. is open May 1 to mid-June (Sun–Thurs 9 Boundary Ranch, run by Rick and a.m.–5 p.m.), then from mid-June–Labour Denise Guinn (son and daughter-in-law Day (daily 9 a.m.–10 p.m.), then from La- of Alvin Guinn of Guinn’s Pass fame) is bour Day to mid-September (Sun–Thurs the place to go for trail rides. Rick’s Steak- 9 a.m.–5 p.m.). house is open during July and August for lunch and early dinner until 6 p.m. on Elk Lakes Provincial Park weekdays and 7 p.m. on weekends. One Elk Lakes Cabin at the entrance is operated of the few eateries where corn on the cob by the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC), and is a staple. Gift shop attached. is open year-round for accommodation. Kananaskis Village features two luxu- Provided are stoves (bring white gas), mat- rious hotels: Delta Lodge at Kananaskis tresses, pots, dishes and cutlery. Reserva- and Executive Lodge at Kananaskis, up- tions required. Pay here for campgrounds. scale restaurants, shops and bars. Woody’s Nearest grocery stores: Boulton Creek Pub has the cheapest eats. At the Village Trading Post in Peter Lougheed Provincial Centre is an information counter, Rib- Park and the town of Elkford, which has bon Creek Grocery & Deli (hot and cold all amenities. snacks, open 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. year-round), a post office, a comfortable lounge, and Hwy. 742 (Smith-Dorrien/Spray Trail) Kananaskis Outfitters (rents, bikes and Lodge, expertly man- bike racks, canoes and hiking equipment). aged by Andrew and Sharisse Kyle, offers Down the road at Ribbon Creek is accommodation with meals. Non-guests Kananaskis Wilderness Hostel with can enjoy all you can eat gourmet din- fully-equipped kitchen, coin laundry, ners at 7 p.m., but you have to book 24 volleyball court. hours in advance. Walk-in afternoon tea The Summit Restaurant at Kananaskis and buffet treats are available from 3–5 Country Golf Course opens at 5:30 a.m.for p.m. on weekends only between mid-June early breakfasts and stays open until the and Thanksgiving. Also on offer: guided last golfer has left the course. hikes, mountain writer programs and the popular Music in the Meadow concerts.

11 Introduction

Boulton Creek (May 2–Oct 13) CAMPING Lower Lake (May 15–Sep 15) Mt. Sarrail (June 20–Sep 1) HIGHWAY ACCESSIBLE CAMPING Interlakes (May 15–Oct 13) Campgrounds fill up quickly in the sum- For all of the above call Kananaskis mer. It’s galling to find every campsite Country Campgrounds, 403-591-7226, full of campers whose idea of exercise is 1-866-366-2267. the walk to the biffy, so book ahead if you can. Overflow areas with minimal facili- Elk Lakes Provincial Park ties are often available. After Labour Day Park entrance next to the parking lot. the situation eases. Prices vary depending on amenities offered and the number of Hwy. 742 (Smith-Dorrien/Spray Trail) vehicles in your party. An RV and a tent Buller Mountain, a winter-only camp- count as one unit. Generally, Alberta se- ground, is presently closed. Call 403- niors receive a discount. 673-3985.

Hwy. 68 (Sibbald Creek Trail west end) BACKCOUNTRY CAMPING Stoney Creek group (beginning of May to For official sites you need permits costing the first week in October). Call $8 per person plus a $10.00. maintenance Park Campgrounds, 403-673-2163. fee plus GST. Children under 16 are free, but still require a permit. Permits can Hwy. 40 (Kananaskis Trail) be picked up from the Barrier Lake and Sundance Lodges (Mid-May to near the Peter Lougheed information centres. The end of September). Besides tipis and trap- easiest way is to phone 403-678-3136, give per’s tents it also has regular camp sites. them your Visa or MasterCard number and Call 403-591-7122. ask them to fax or email the permit to you Mt. Kidd RV Park (year-round). Campers or tell them you’ll pick up the permit en Centre features a grocery store, coffee bar, route. In Alberta the number is toll free. laundromat, showers, saunas. Outside Dial 310-0000 first. It will have occurred area children’s wading pool, tennis courts, to you that backcountry camping can horseshoe pits, volleyball court. Call 403- cost considerably more than highway- 591-7700. accessible camping. Random camping is not allowed in Canoe Meadows group (Apr 11–Oct 13). provincial parks and provincial recreation Call Bow Valley Park Campgrounds, 403- areas. Outside of these areas you can camp 673-2163. almost anywhere except in a few areas Porcupine group (May 1–Oct. 13). Call which are regulated as follows: random Bow Valley Park Campgrounds, 403-673- permitted with permit, restricted random 2163. with no access April 15–Sept 30, no ran- Eau Claire (May 15–Sep 1). Call Kananaskis dom camping and no access Dec 15–June Country Campgrounds, 403-591-7226, 15, bivouac random April 15–Sept 30, 1-866-366-2267. bivouac random April 15–Sept 30 but with no access Dec 15–June 15. Confused? Con- Kananaskis Lakes Trail/road tact an information centre for clarification. Lower Lake group (year-round). Call 1-866-366-2267. Off Hwy. 40 Pocaterra group (May 15–Oct. 13). Call Jewel Bay, regular and equestrian (June Bow Valley Park campgrounds, 403-673- 16–April 14), Ribbon Falls (May 16–Nov 2163. 30), Ribbon Lake (May 16–Nov 30), Lil- Canyon (June 13–Sep 1) lian Lake (late June–Nov. 3 ), Elkwood (May 15–Sep 1) (June 15–Nov 30).

12 Introduction

Off Kananaskis Lakes Trail/road Seasonal Road Closures Point, Forks, Three , Turbine Hwy. 40 between Kananaskis Lakes Trail Canyon, Aster Lake. /road and Highwood Junction is closed between Dec. 1–June 14. During this time, In Elk Lakes Provincial Park , snowshoeing,walking and biking Lower Elk Lake, Pétain Creek, Pétain is allowed. Basin (bivouac). Cost is $5 per person per Valleyview Trail/road is permanently night. Children under 16 go free. Pay at closed between Elpoca day-use area the Elk Lakes Cabin. Random camping is not allowed. and Little Highwood Pass day-use area. Walking and biking are allowed except at Off Hwy. 742 specified times when the road is used as (Smith-Dorrien/Spray Trail) a dumping ground for road kill. Check the Rummel Lake, winter only. K Country website.

For up-to-date info on campsites pick Friends of Kananaskis Country up Explore Kananaskis Country and the is a not-for-profit registered charity that Ghost Area, which is published once a works in partnership with Alberta Tour- year by Friends of Kananaskis Country. ism, Parks & Recreation “for the benefit of Copies available at all information centres Kananaskis Country and its visitors.” See in K Country and elsewhere in Alberta. www.kananaskis.org.

Volunteer Trail Care Group INFO As before, K Country needs your help in maintaining selected trails. To volunteer, phone 403-678-5593 or write to trails@ A FEW RULES kananaskis.org • Respect seasonal trail closures. • No registration is necessary for CHECK THE K COUNTRY WEB SITE overnight trips. However, registration Check the K Country trail report for trail books are available at information conditions. Especially useful are the centres and at some trailheads. “Important Notes,” which among other • Respect open-fire bans. Should you things give warnings about bear or cougar wish to report a fire, telephone num- sightings and temporary trail closures. See bers are listed on trailhead kiosks. www.Kananaskis-Country.ca. • Dogs must be on a leash. • Anglers require an Alberta or BC fish- CHECK OUR BLOG ing licence. KananaskisTrails.com is a blog site maintained by Gillean and Tony Daffern. • There are some restrictions on It covers all things Kananaskis, including backcountry camping. notification of new trails, trail changes See “Backcountry Camping” and trail issues. • There are some restrictions for moun- tain bikers. Read the trail description CHECK THE WEBCAMS or contact an information centre. Webcams in this area are Barrier Lake Sta- tion and Nakiska.

13 Introduction

RATING TRAILS USING THE BOOK No attempt has been made to classify trails. What’s difficult for one person is ARRANGEMENT OF TRAILS easy for another. It’s all relative. Also Trails are arranged by highway and are coming into play is the length of a trail, its colour coded. Refer to map on page 16. gradient, its remoteness from a trailhead, conditions underfoot and so on. Read TYPES OF TRAILS the introductory description carefully. If Official Trails officially maintained by you’re having a horrible time, it’s up to Kananaskis Country, Alberta Tourism, you to turn back and try something easier. Parks & Recreation, and Alberta Sustain- able Resources are a mix of new and old RATING TIMES trails, logging and exploration roads, fire Times are dependent on too many vari- roads and cutlines. Expect parking lots at ables — everybody chugs along at a dif- trailheads, biffies and the occasional pic- ferent rate. Some will be carrying heavy nic table. Junctions are marked with sign- packs; some people, like me, like to make posts of the “You are here” variety. Some frequent flower stops. And then there are trails have directional arrows or coloured the underfoot conditions to consider, the markers on trees or posts. Unless the trail weather and so on. is equestrian, expect bridges over creeks. • Half day, up to 3 hours UnofficialT rails are similar to the above, • Day, up to 6 hours but sometimes have no obvious trailhead, • Long day, up to 10 hours plus. are neither signposted nor marked in (Take headlamps ) any way except perhaps, for the occa- • Backpack, overnight camping. sional piece of flagging, cairn or trimmed branches. Creek crossings are the norm. For the first time, this category includes Some of the trips are designated “bike ’n’ trails demoted from official status. hike” and even “paddle ’n’ hike.” Biking the first part of the trail can cut down the Routes either have no trails or have long time considerably. In this way I’ve often trail-less sections where you have to navi- squeezed a weekend trip into one day. gate from one intermittent game trail to an- other. Often there is some bushwhacking. DISTANCES Distances are given in kilometres. Dis- Scrambles Can have official or unofficial tances shown between each segment of trails or be routes. They range from ridge trail are not cumulative, but show the walks to gruelling uphill flogs in excess distance between segments. of 1000 m to the top of a mountain. You can be sure of scree, and possibly a pitch TRAIL DESCRIPTIONS or two of easy scrambling. There may be Trail descriptions are arranged according mild exposure. Special equipment is un- to the character of the trail. Most trails lead necessary in optimum conditions when to a single destination. But sometimes the the mountain is devoid of snow and the destination is the springboard for further weather is good. options under headings like “going far- ther,” “making a loop,” “optional descent HEIGHTS, HEIGHT GAINS route” etc. I sometimes describe the same are given in both metric and imperial. mountain with different ways up and down, or an area with a number of trails or

14 Introduction peaks radiating out from the same access. BUYING MAPS Occasionally loop trails can be extended Maps in the back of this book are for refer- into longer loops. Long-distance trails, ence only. You need to carry a bona-fide rarely hiked in their entirety, are described topo map. The latest editions of Gem Trek by segment. maps come close to being the perfect maps for the area, with contour intervals at 25 m. DIRECTIONS They show grid lines, up-to-date road align- Left and right refer to the direction of ments, official trails, some unofficial trails, travel. Skier’s left/right refers to descent, and major powerlines. climber’s left/right to ascent. Government topo maps, depending on the edition, are in both imperial and met- GRID REFERENCES & GPS RECEIVERS ric, with contour lines at 100-foot inter- Where I give grid references you can fol- vals and 40-m intervals respectively (not low along on your topo map. so good). Occasionally, features like small Maps have blue grid lines running east/ lakes, streams, glaciers and even moun- west and north/south. Each line is num- tains are omitted, which leads to exciting bered. The first two numbers indicate the discoveries. Generally, road alignments grid line forming the west boundary of the are corrected on maps post 1983. kilometre square in which your point is lo- Provincial Resource Base Maps from cated, and the third number the estimated Alberta Energy & Natural Resources are number of tenths of a kilometre your updated fairly regularly and show what point is east of that line. The fourth and the other maps don’t: all cutlines, all fifth numbers indicate the south bound- powerlines and exploration and log- ary of the square and the last number the ging roads. Unfortunately, the reality is estimated number of tenths of a kilometre sometimes nothing like what is shown your point is north of that line. on the map. GPS receivers are useful when bush- whacking or for finding your way back to MAPS FOR VOLUME 1 a trail or a trailhead. Gem Trek • Canmore and Kananaskis Village: MAPS IN BOOK scale 1:50,000, contour interval 25 m. Sketch maps in the text are not always to • Kananaskis Lakes scale 1:50,000, con- scale and serve only to clarify complex ar- tour interval 25 m. eas where you might go wrong. Maps at the back of the book are based on today’s topo Government topo maps maps, which come in a mix of imperial Scale 1: 50,000 and metric. Therefore, the contour inter- Contour interval 40 m. vals vary. There are also errors like miss- • 82 O/3 Canmore ing creeks, lakes, mountains and glaciers. Because of this these maps are intended • 82 J/11 Kananaskis Lakes as a guide only. Still, trails and routes are • 82 J/14 marked as accurately as possible. Contour interval 100 ft. • 82 J/10 • Red line: a trail, official or unofficial • 82 J/15 • Red dash: a route • 82 J/6 Mount Abruzzi • Black line: trail in other volume. • Dashed black line: route in other volume

15 Introduction 18 1 Barrier Info Centre 5 1-3 7-8 68 Barrier 6 2 Lake 4

9-11

12-13

18-20 14-16 e Spray Nakiska g Lake 21-23 Reservoir 17 n 24-27 a 79 27-29 R

4 Kananaskis Village 3 r

e K 35-38

h a 9 s n 33-34 i

77-78 a F 29-32 80 n 81-82 91, 93 a s 39 ngaeR O l pa 83 Mount k Engadine i S 84-86 s Lodge p r 92-95 R 40 a y a 41 Fortress 87-90 n Junction M g t e n 96-97 s . 8 98 5

42-43 The Area covered by 99 101 Volume 1, showing PLPP Info 100 Centre 6 location of trailheads 53-54 45 Valleyview with trail numbers 54-55 Trail and areas covered by 44, 52 57 maps at the back of 66, 67 56-57 46-47 71-76 Boulton this book Trading Post Kananaskis 65 Lakes 58-64 68-70 Highwood 48-52 Pass

62-64

Elk Lakes to 16 7 Elkford Hwy. 742

88 BURSTALL PASS — map 9

Burstall Pass. In the background is Mt. Birdwood, Long day hike, bike ’n’ hike Pig’s Tail and . Official trail with signposts, creek Okay, so you may be walking your bike crossings likely up some hills, but coming down is a blast. Distance 7.8 km Creek crossings on the flats are un- Height gain 472 m (1550 ft.) avoidable, but after September you can High point 2362 m (7750 ft.) generally cross dryshod. Maps 82 J/14 Spray Lakes Reservoir, As Joe Kovach and Bill Balmer noted 82 J/11 Kananaskis Lakes on October 6, 1948, the pass can easily be crossed to the . Nowadays Access Hwy. 742 (Smith-Dorrien/Spray there is the luxury of a trail, so anyone off Trail) at Burstall Pass parking lot. to Leman Lake, Spray Pass or Also accessible from #86A and B, can come this way in preference to slog- Birdwood Lakes. ging all the way up the Spray River trail from Bryant Creek. For details read The The Burstall Pass trail takes you into that Canadian Rockies Trail Guide, by Brian cheerful green and white karst country Patton and Bart Robinson. above treeline. Once you are up high, This is also the scrambler’s access for there are many enticing opportunities Mt. Burstall, Piggy Plus and . for off-trail exploration: see options and scramble #89. To bike rack 3.5 km Not all of this route is scenic trail. It Forgoing the gated gravel access road, kicks off with 3.3 km of tedious logging cross Mud Lake Dam on trail. Join the road road that we used to drive pre K Country. briefly, then swing right at the hiking sign Now you can bike it to a bike rack. This onto Burstall Creek logging road. To left is cuts down the hiking to 4.5 km one way. French Creek pouring out of two culverts

265 Smith-Dorrien

Burstall Pass (centre) from the lower south ridge into a holding pond, diverted from its of Snow Peak. To left is South Burstall Pass below natural course into Smith-Dorrien Creek Sir Douglas. At centre ridge 147230, showing both ascent and descent routes. To the right is Leman to Mud Lake, a receptacle for all the muck Lake between mounts Leman and Leval. The carried down from the Robertson and pointy peak is Talon Peak above Talus Lodge. French glaciers. At another hiking sign curve left up a hill. (To right is the flat of the middle lake. A short distance on, Hogarth Lakes logging road.) At the top a side trail to right leads to waterlogged is a four-way junction. Turn sharp right meadows surrounding the middle lake. at the hiking sign. (Ahead is the French (See side trip A, Avalanche Impact Pond.) Creek logging road.) After another uphill, a cairn on the Continue to follow the Burstall Creek left side indicates the scrambler’s route logging road, which climbs past numerous up Mt. Burstall. A few metres on, a short re-vegetating logging roads and skid trails, side trail to right leads to Third Burstall the result of Balmer’s visit to look over the Lake, a detour worth taking for the view of timber. Down to your right, Burstall Creek Mt. Birdwood and Commonwealth Peak is closeted in a canyon. A side trail just rising steeply above the water. after an intersecting logging road leads to At about 3.4 km, a small meadow on a vertiginous viewpoint. Don’t sue if you the left-hand side — a former sawmill fall over the edge. Okay? site — marks the end of the logging road. After the road descends a little, keep This is also where scramblers take off up straight at km 1.7. (A secondary road to a hidden valley to Piggy Plus. The road right heads downhill and crosses Burstall reverts to trail and dips sharply. Immedi- Creek. See #87B.) ately after is the bike rack. Below the avalanche slopes of Mt. Burstall, the going is mainly flat with a few To the pass 4.3 km small uphills. Pass a massive boulder, and From the rack, a rooty trail descends down to the right the three relatively drab- gradually to the valley bottom and runs coloured Burstall Lakes, which lie out of alongside Robertson Creek to a bridge. sight from the road. Though not out of Cross and navigate a large willowy al- earshot. On a left-hand bend the roar you luvial flat extending from Robertson Gla- hear comes from the cascade at the outlet cier moraines to west Burstall Lake. This

266 Hwy. 742

Burstall Pass (centre) from the south ridge of Snow Peak. Below Mt. Sir Douglas (left) is South Burstall Pass. At centre is ridge GR147230, to far right Le- man Lake viewpoint above the sinkhole.

Mt. Robertson, Robertson Glacier and Mt. Sir Douglas from the flats. Enter forest again and climb the timbered headwall of Burstall Creek, which is a entails following footprints in the gravel bit of a grunt with overnight gear and a and signs on posts. During the summer six-pack. Some 120 vertical metres later glacier melt, paddling continually shifting you reach the long flat meadow below braided streams is the norm. Birdwood Pass and Mt. Birdwood’s Lizzie Ahead is Snow Peak, the south ridge Ridge. This is where route 85A comes in. in profile. As you cross the mouth of Cross the meadow and climb steadily Robertson Glacier Valley, look left for through open forest to a flattening where a view of the glacier slung between the the trail turns right at a signpost. (The less vertical strata of Mt. Robertson and lordly worn trail ahead starts you off towards Sir Douglas. South Burstall Pass.)

267 Smith-Dorrien

The trail heads up right, zigs back left be- OPTIONS low a rockband into meadows, then right again, ultimately approaching the pass 88B Avalanche Impact Pond from the south. A national parks signpost marks the spot. Half-day When the cloud’s down, Burstall Pass Route, creek crossing is a hugely complicated terrain of barren Distance 0.6 km from Burstall Pass ridges, confounded by a deep sinkhole trail, 3.2 km one way from trailhead on the west side. In fine weather it’s a Close to the northeast end of Third marvellous place to be. Mountains encir- Burstall Lake is a small pond marked on cle you, Mt. Birdwood to the northeast the topo map at 173272. As ponds go it’s and seen through the gap a bit of a rarity. It’s full name is “snow- made by Burstall Creek. Sir Douglas is avalanche impact pool” because it’s been pre-eminent to the south, while to the excavated by climax avalanches shooting west, Assiniboine lords it over a welter down the 580-m-high gully from the ridge of lesser peaks. Bounding the pass to the above. The ejected material piled up in a south is the unnamed ridge 147230, and mound on the downhill side and the hole to the north the oddly-named Snow Peak. filled up with water. Landform enthusiasts should consider GOING FARTHER making the pond a half-day destination 88A Leman Lake Viewpoint from the trailhead. Take Tevas and poles. Start from Burstall Pass trail at 2.6 km from Official trail, route the trailhead. Head right on a narrow trail Distance 0.7 km from pass leading to a waterlogged meadow about Second Burstall Lake. Put on the Tevas If not Snow Peak or Ridge and make your way around the left shore 147230, this is the next-best viewpoint to Burstall Creek between lakes. Follow it and requires little extra effort.

Start at Burstall Pass. The same trail continues into , tra- versing the left side of the sink. Instead of turning right as for the Spray River Val- ley, continue ahead to a grassy shoulder. Keep walking until the peacock colours of historic Leman Lake come into view. In 1901 Walter Wilcox named it Lake Castel- leia after the wild flower observed on its banks, i.e. the Indian paintbrush. While Leman Lake can be reached from the Spray River Valley you can miss out tthe backpack by driving Hwy. 93 and the Kootenay-Albert forest road and walking for an hour over Spray Pass. For details read Hikes around Invermere & the Co- lumbia River Valley, by Aaron Cameron and Matt Gunn.

Right: The impact pond and mound above Third Burstall Lake. Mt. Burstall in the background.

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South Burstall Pass area below up and wade the creek easily at the outlet Whistling Ridge. Photo Alf Skrastins to Third Burstall Lake. Ahead is the grassy mound, and behind is a rough walk on rock, but an exciting it a green pond about 9 m deep. The best one for karst lovers. viewpoint is from a little way up the gully (see photo.). Leave Burstall Pass trail at the signpost at It’s hard to think of a better lunch spot 150245 where a fainter trail heads south. than the back side of the mound that After it peters out choose your own route, slopes down to the lake at sun-bathing more or less following the draw to a wide angle and gives fine views across the wa- flat area of fissured pavement which is the ter to Mt. Burstall and Whistling Ridge. pass. At a cairn look back. The four dog- Alternatively, some cleverly constructed tooth mountains: Smuts, Birdwood, Pig’s seats made out of large rocks and deadfall Tail, and Commonwealth Peak have lined up four abreast. What you’ve really come are available close to the shore. for, though, is the close-up of Mt. Sir Doug- las, its north face mantled with glaciers. 88C South Burstall Pass If you have time continue southeast into a cirque “of shattered karst full of Long Day hike depressions and blocked shafts.” Unofficial trail then route On the return explore farther towards Distance from main trail 1.7+ km Whistling Ridge and Burstall Slabs (“one Height gain from main trail 168+ m of North America’s finest friction climb- (550+ ft.) ing areas”),“where small streams plunge High point 2454 m (8050 ft.) into beautifully sculptured elliptical shafts” writes caver Jon Rollins describ- The slightly higher pass at 155226 is re- ing Burstall Pots. He surmises the water ally the culmination of the Burstall Creek may rise again at Karst Spring, though no Valley between Whistling Ridge to the east water tracing has ever been carried out. and ridge 147230 to the west. Much of it Also have a look for the wee tarn.

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the Spray River Valley. You’ll revel in the 88D Ridge 147230 view that takes in the whole of the Spray Valley from Bryant Creek to Palliser Pass, Day plus Mt. Assiniboine and all the peaks Route, unofficial trail you could see from Burstall Pass. Look Distance 2.3 km to South Burstall Pass down on blue-tinted Belgium Lake, and Height gain 244 m (800 ft.) across the pass to Mt. King Albert, named High point 2606 m (8550 ft.) after the King of the Belgians who died in a climbing accident and not, I hasten to If motivated by fabulous views, travers- add, a member of the Royal Group. Carry ing the ridge between the two passes is on to the very end, dropping slightly to a something you can’t pass up. Most often spectacular grassy promontory that gives it is combined with Option C. you the best view of the day — the classic Getting onto the ridge is not as straight- shot of Sir Douglas. forward as you might expect. From the signpost at Burstall Pass head southwest To regain the Burstall Pass trail onto the big grassy rise 145239 through a Most hikers drop off the left (east) side of break in the rock band. Steer south and the ridge onto South Burstall Pass. From gain a smaller rise by the left edge. Ahead the end point this is a fairly simple descent rises the main body of the ridge. Sneak of alternating scree steps (the second is through the obvious draw on its left side, the steepest) and grassy terraces. Then cut back right on steep grass, and finish turn left and wander back north through with a simple scree plod on sheep trail. the valley karst. Except for one short rise before the sec- Alternatively, head left along the lower ond cairn, the summit ridge is broad and terrace. Where the terrace slips a notch flat, the right side falling away in cliffs to at mid point, descend to the flat meadow and pick up the Burstall Pass trail just below the pass. View of Sir Douglas from the promontory.

270 Galatea Lakes 97 INDEX “Grizzly Col” 149 Grizzly Creek 123 Allan, Mt. via Centennial Ridge 75 “Grizzly Peak” 152 Aster Lake 193 Grizzly Peak to Highwood Ridge 153 Avalanche impact pond 268 Grizzly Peak to Storm Creek 154 Balam 70 Guinn’s Pass 99 Baldy Pass from the north 20 Gypsum Quarry 303 Baldy Pass from the south 38 Gypsum Tarns, return via Barrier Lake Forestry Trails 26 Indefatigable Col 305 Barrier Lake interpretive trail 32 Gypsum Tarns 304 Barrier Lake Lookout 35 Haig Glacier 218 “Birdwood Lakes” 254 Hanging Valley & Waka Nambé Birdwood Pass 256 Viewpoint 199 Birdwood Pass to Burstall Pass 259 Headwall Lakes 287 Black Prince Cirque “Hero Knob” 299 interpretive trail 301 Highwood Ridge 156 Black Prince Lake 301 Highwood Ridge, SE summit 157 Blueberry Hill, descent to Upper Hogarth Lakes loop 263 Kananaskis Lake 174 “Horton Hill” 18 Blueberry Hill 174 Hummingbird Plume Lookout 69 Boulton Creek interpretive trail 166 Indefatigable outlier 228 Boundary Ridge, The 24, 46 Indefatigable South, Mt. 231 Buller Pass 233 Indefatigable trail 227 Burstall Pass 265 Interlakes interpretive trail 185 Camp Creek 109 Invincible Lake 224 283 James Walker Creek 292 Chester Lake to Rummel Lake 286 James Walker Creek, the cirques 293 Commonwealth Lake 260 Jewell Pass 36 Coral Pass 182 Kananaskis Canyon Eau Claire interpretive trail 120 interpretive trail 162 Elbow Lake 145 Kananaskis Glacier 220 Elk Lakes to Pétain Falls 177 Kananaskis Lookout 167 Elpoca Creek Hill 140 Karst Spring 244 Evan-Thomas Creek & Pass 107 Kent Creek 308 First Burstall Lake loop 264 Kidd Falls Creek 94 Fisera Ridge 74 King Creek Canyon 129 Fortress, The 290 King Creek Ridge – Fortress, The – descent to King Creek 133 descent to Chester Lake 290 King Creek Ridge 131 Fortress Lake 128 Kirsten Tarns 247 Fortress Mountain ski area trails 124 Kovach Loops 88 Fortress Ridge 126 “Lawson, south end of” 306 Fossil Falls 198 Leman Lake Viewpoint 268 French Creek, First Waterfall 277 Little Highwood Pass 159 French Glacier 273 Lorette Creek Canyon 61 Frozen Lake 171 Lost Lake 102, 282 Galatea Creek to Lillian Lake 95

318 Lower (Kananaskis) Lake 163 Rawson Lake 191 Lusk Creek, south fork of 23 “Rawson Ridge” 192 Lyautey 190 “Red Basin” 240 Mackay Hills 113 “Red Peak,” the 238 Marlborough Tarn 198 “Red Peak,” from “Red Basin” 242 Marl Lake interpretive trail 165 Ribbon Falls 79 Marmot Basin 71 Ribbon Lake 82, 233 Marmot Creek Road 73 Ridge 147230 270 Marmot Creek Waterfalls 65 Ridge 413572 19 Marushka (Shark) Lake 246 Rocky Creek 111 Memorial Lakes 84 Rummel Lake 278 “,” north ridge 39 Rummel Pass 281 “Midnight Peak,” northwest ridge 40 Skogan Pass from the south 66 “Midnight Peak,” west ridge 41 Snow Peak 271 Mine Scar 76 South Burstall Pass 269 Mt. Kidd Lookout Site 90 South Kananaskis Pass 207 Nomad, Mt. 226 South Kananaskis Pass to North North Buller Pass 238 Kananaskis Pass via Leroy Creek 211 North Buller Pass loop 236 South Peak of Baldy 43 North Kananaskis Pass 218 South Twin Creek 74 “North Kent” 295 Stoney trail 57 “North Kent,” west outlier 298 “Taiga Viewpoint” 172 Northover Ridge 201 Tent Ridge 248 116 Tent Ridge connector 252 Old Baldy, descent via west flank 118 Tent Ridge Horseshoe 250 Opal Creek 139 Terrace trail 92 Opal Ridge south 121 Three Isle Lake 204 Opal traverse 134 Three Lakes Valley 285 Peak 193107 208 Trans Canada Trail connector 27 Peak 193107 – Troll Falls loop 62 descent to Beatty Lake 210 Tryst Lake 253 Peak 237374 100 Turbine Canyon 214 Peak 238342 104 Upper Chester Creek 284 Peak 336454 “The G8 Summits” 55 circuit 186 Peak 357404 118 Upper Kananaskis River Peak 403471 25 viewpoint 222 Pétain Basin 181 Viewpoint, The (Lower Elk Lake) 180 “Pig’s Back” 261 Wasootch-Baldy connector 50 Pocaterra Ridge 141 Wasootch Creek 49 Porcupine Creeks, northeast fork 46 Wasootch Ridge 52 Porcupine Creeks , southeast fork 44 Watridge Lake 243 “Porcupine Ridge” 47 Wedge access trail, The 106 Prairie View trail 33 Wedge connector, The 105 “Prospect Ridge” loop 111 West Elk Pass 169 Ptarmigan Cirque West Elk Pass to Elk Lakes interpretive trail 147 Provincial Park 175 Rae Glacier 146 West Elk Pass to Upper Elk Lake 176 Widowmaker trail and on 28

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