THE NETHERBOW PORT. 379

THE NETHERBOW PORT. BY THE REV. R. S. MYLNE, B.C.L., F.R.S.E., FELLOW OF THE ACADEMY OF ST LTJKE, ROME. The Netherbo importann a s wwa t boundary throughou Middle th t e Ages. Above was the ancient town of ; below, the Canon- gate, unde jurisdictioe th r e Abboth f f Holyrooo no t s bailieshi d dan . Only in modern times has the jurisdiction of these two sets of magis- trates been thrown into one under the Lord Provost of Edinburgh. e positioTh f thio n s gats originallwa e e th ye lin f th fixeo e y b d ancient fortifie de townwalth f o l, trace f whico s h still exist, though e increas th populatioe th f eo earln ni y days soon required more space accommodatioe foth r citizense th wal e f no Th l her. nearln era y north and south, from the North Loch (now the North British Station) toward e Cowgateth s tha o e s Netherbo; th t w faced easd westan t , e loweth d r lanan d toward e greatth s Abbe f Holyrooyo d fell under jurisdictioe th Churche th f o n . Many events connected with the history of Edinburgh occurred at the Netherbow. Thus a fierce conflict took place in 1515 at this spot between the Earl of Arran and the Earl of Angus, the supporters of Arran assembling at the Archbishop of Glasgow's house at Blackfriars Wynd. About seventy perished besid e Netherboeth w before order was restored n 151 I citizene .9th s shut their gates agains Eare th t l of Arran, whe attemptee nh influenco t d e electio th e Provost th f no . In 1560 a serious quarrel broke out between the Scottish and Frenc wern h so esoldiersNethere s Provose slaith hi th t d nd a an -an ,t bow by the French troops, who finally retreated down the Canongate. 157n I r Williae Castl 1Si th hels y edb wa m Kirkcald Grangf yo r efo Mary Queen of Scots, and on May 1st the Duke of Chatelherault entered the town with 300 troops. There was much fighting about e Netherbowth orden givea s d wa rconstruco nt an , secona t d gata e 380 PKOCEEDINGS OF THE SOCIETY, MAY 13, 1912.

little higher up than the old gate for the better defence of the town. But there were scenes of joy connected with the Netherbow as well as strife a.nd war. In 1590 King James VI. married Anne of Denmark at Holyrood. The marriage procession paused at the Netherbow to se representatioea f Marriagno e enacte skilley db x d bo actors a d an , coated with velvet was let down from the upper part of the gate to the Queen with her initials wrought in goodly precious stones. coronatioe th r Fo Kinf no g Charles I.1633n i , Netherboe th , s wwa decorated with fine picture famoue th y sb s painter Jameson dieo dwh , n Edinburgi n 1644hi representatioA . f Mouno n t Parnassus wa s enacted at the Tron " with a great variety of vegetables, rocks, and other decorations peculiar to mountains." Moreover, the King received a laudatory address from the famous poet, Drummond, of Hawthorn- den. Altogether the city spent £41,000 (Scottish money) on these various ceremonial exhibitions. King Charles hoped thereby, and hoped in vain, to obtain popularity. He had adopted the famous maxifathers hi f mo , Bishopo "N King,o n , thoughd an " t thae th t introductio f episcopacno y would strengthe s feeblnhi e th hol n do crow f Scotlando n t hers judgmenBu hi e e.n h error i r s fo ,wa t utterly failed to understand the sturdy nature of the Scottish people. He thought the moderate and tolerant doctrine of the Church of England was a good nucleus around which the scattered Protestant bodies might rally, and so resist the vast power of the Church of people th Rome Stuare t e Th Bu woul. t . t havsovereignso dno t ei s were ever unfortunate, and nothing is more pathetic than the ultimate fate of Charles I., so strangely foretold by the Sortes Virgiliance.

know,o "t See' t ghose kno th ' t replied with tears, sorrowe sony Th futur n th ' si f so e years. This youth, the blissful vision of a day, Shall jus shewe b t earthn no snatched an , d away.'" entered Edinburg Septemben hi rhea e 165th dt 0a e towth nt pu undes army ohi d f ran , martial law. Scenes very TH1 E38 NETHERBOW POET.

different fro peacefue mth l celebration t Charlesa s I.'s coronatiow nno took place. well-knows Nicohi n li n diary relates Septemben o , r 27th, that y "ordeb f Generao r l Cromweln ow l s thers threhi f wa eo e soldiers scourge Provose th y db t Marshall' fron Stone msme th e Chop to the Netherbow, and back again, for plundering houses within the town." Cromwell's rule was severe, yet he protected quiet citizens. e yeath r n I 154 e Parliamen0th t authorisinpassed Ac ha t n da g e constructioth strona f no g wall upo e wesnth t sid f Leiteo h Wynd by the Corporation of Edinburgh, and, " because the east side apper- Abboe tainth Holyroodo f st o t bailiee Canongate th ,th f so e muse se t o thit se construction th par f o t " froe Netherbomth o Trinitwt y College Church n 154 I e Englis. 4th h army, unde e Ear th rHertf o l - ford, captured Edinburgh, enterin Watee th y gearliese rb Gateth d tan , known map of the old town appears to have been made for the use of e Englisth h GeneralNetherboe th t A . wstoua t resistanc mads ewa e e citizense bgatbeates yth th e wa t ne enemybu ,a opeth d y nb an , great numbe f peoplo r e wer e e Castlattace th th killed t n eko Ye . altogether failed ; and the English soon afterwards returned to their own land thin I s. peculia Henry wa r y VIII. though obtaio t t e nth hand of the young Queen of Scotland for his own son. When Queen Mary mad statr ehe e entry into Edinburgh Septemn o , - ber 3rd, 1561 e Netherboth , decorates wwa mosn di t costly fashion, Councie asth l Register presenterecordss wa e sh ;d wit e keye th h th f so city, received by the chief citizens in black velvet gowns with scarlet doublets, attended by fifty black slaves, and was present at the performanc a quain f o e t mystery play, concernin e destructiogth n of Korah, Dathan, and Abiram. Nicol records that, on May 8th, 1662, the newly consecrated bishops assembled in their gowns at the e Archbishohousth f o e t AndrewS f o p s nea e Netherbowth r d an , marched thence to Parliament accompanied by the Earl of Kellie and the Earl of Wemyss, and were received with much honour. Soon afterwards Archbishop Sharp was murdered at Magus Moor. 382 PROCEEDINGS OF THE SOCIETY, MAY 13, 1912.

In the year 1745, while the citizens were discussing their best course of actiot GilesS n ni a part, f Highlanderyo s manage o entedt e th r town by the Netherbow gate, and were soon followed by the young Chevalier himself. Then the heralds were ordered to publish at the Market Cros e commissiosth Regencf no y whic youne hth g Princd eha receive briea r d ffo fro spaco fathers s m hi e hous d eth an f Stuar, eo t again ruled in Edinburgh. The Prince occupied Holyrood, receiving all who came to him with the utmost courtesy, and his troops en- camped in the royal park, near Duddingston. Marchin Linlithgowo gt , they unfortunatel t firthao yse t e t Palace, which has been a ruin ever since. They were finally overthrown by the Duke of Cumberland, who burnt their standards at the Market agaip u Hanoveriae t nth Crossse d an , n Government Prince'e Th . s own standard was carried to the Cross by the common hangman. At the unhappy time of the Porteous Riot, in 1736, it had been pro- posed to demolish the Netherbow, but this foolish scheme was defeated e energbth y d determinatioan y e Scotsmeth f o n n Parliamenti n , who woul t havdno e this ancien historid an t c gate destroyedt Ye . its lease of life was not long preserved. In the year 1764, the edict went forth fro e citmth y that this famous landmark should exiso n t more, and in that same year the entire structure was pulled down, amids e regretth t f mancitizene so th f yo Edinburghf so . A good engravin mads g 1 wa 176n ei 4 (figshowin, 1) . workmee gth n takin copa stonespire g top the preserve y is off and ,sof the the din Library of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland. There is also an engraving at p. 55 of vol. ii. of Daniel Wilson's Memorials of Edinburgh, engrave . ForrestW d . drawy Wilsodb D an , y b nf thesI n (fig. e2) . two engravings are correct (and they seem better than others that exist), the Netherbow cannot have been built in 1660, as some writers affirm. The design is mediaeval Gothic, with traces It also shows the contrast between the Gothic and Renaissance work on the 1 Netherbow.

THE NETHERBOW PORT. 385

of a French influence, and must be prior to the seventeenth century. Great works were carried out at the Netherbow in 1571 for purposes of defence, and a substantial portion of this extensive gateway was most likely erected in that year, but part must be earlier than that date, and probably belongs to the prosperous and peaceful reign of James V., whe muco s n h building n Scotlandi wen n o t d theran , e was a distinct French influence at the royal Court. Wha realls wa t y don 160n ei 6I hav e been abl ascertaio et n from original documents. It is recorded in the Town Council records :— " January 24, 1606. The bailies, with Richard Doby, Ninian M'Moran, George Fowlis, and Edward Ker, to visit the Netherbow, consuld an t abou repaie th t r thereof reporo Councie t th d o t an tn , o l Wednesday next. " March 28, 1606. The Treasurer is authorised to pay expenses of repairin e Netherbowgth . "April 4, 1606. David Grandestoun is appointed overseer of Netherbowe wore th th t ka . " Novembe , bailieagree 1606o 7 t r Th e e.ar swit Masoe hth r nfo taking down and rebuilding the North Turnepyke of the Netherbow, and to see that this work go forward." Thus it is clear that the works of 1606 were of the nature of repair, and not reconstruction, of the whole large and extensive building of the Netherbow. And the reason for these works was the expected state visit of King James after his coronation in London. Elaborate beautifud an l decoratio therefors nwa e needfu s wel a ls mer a l e repair of this ancient fabric. " May 1, 1607. James Nisbet, James Arnot, Mungo M'Call, bailies, John Robertson, Dean of Guild, Alex. M'Math, Treasurer, and the Council, understanding that it is the custome of maist renownit cities o havt e effigith e r statuo e f theio e r p upoprinc u e mais t th n se e t paten . cititherefore t . th par . ef o t e they have thought expedient VOL. XLVI. 25 386 PROCEEDINGS OF THE SOCIETY, MAY 13, 1912.

and ordain to affix and set up upon the maist patent and honourable e Netherboparth f o t e imagwth r status majesto e hi f eo y gravin ni maist pryncelie and decent form in remembrance of his majesty, and of their sincere affection borne unto him." But the royal visit was long delayed, and so was the completion of e royat tilth lno ls 161 statuewa 6 t thaI . t payments were actually made on account of this work, and the record is preserved in the Council Book f Edinburghso . " September 9, 1616. Quhilk day the Proveist, Baillies, Deyne of Crild, ^Thesaure d Counselan r l being conveynit ordainis Johnne Byris Thesaurer to content and pay to Benjamin Lambert the sowme of 433 merks 6 schillingis 8 penyis for the King's portrait and New Armis to be erected at the Netherbow, and the same sal be allowit to him in his comptis." t BenjamiBu n Lambert died very suddenly while these works were in burieprogresss e expens d Johth e towwa t th an d a d nf n ; o e an , Myln askes ewa com o dt e from Pert worke carrd th han n y.o " Novembe , 16164 Joho r T n. Myln r thifo es last oulkes wagis £4. 10. 0, for his wages and chairges for cumming fra St Johnstoune to enter to our work because we wrett for him as the Compter and he agreed £6. 13. 4." monte th Decemben f I ho wages hi r s were raisesame th eo dt rats ea Benjamin Lambert. " Apri , 1617r Willia12 lFo . m Cocki Johd ean n Mylne stencine gth hardid an coverinx s (coarswa r gfo e linen cloio t )e covertur sth e with rosse brimstond " an t 4. . 8 . e6 All the items for this work occupy four pages, and the total amounts Junn O e . 4th 9d £10o ,t . 16176s , , John Myln mads ewa eburgesa f so Edinburgh, payin Deae th Gilf Augusn o go t o d t £66Bu t , 13s. 4d . 8th it was ordered that this sum of money should be allowed him in accountss hi , David Aikinhead being then Dea Gildf no . e sculptureth t Bu d figur Kinf o e g Jame totalls swa y destroyedd an , TH7 E38 NETHERBOW POET.

all the elaborate gilding and painting connected therewith. Yet e stoneworth o s t Renaissancf no ko e design inserte uppee th n dro face of the Netherbow, including the stone in which the spike was inserted on whic e headhth f politicaso l offenders were placed after execution. These stone I shav e placeb e o t recoveredd w no d the e an ar ,y beside 's Church, clos theio t e r original positioe th n ni seventeenth century. They are chiefly famous for their connection with the wars of the Solemn League and Covenant, though also good specimens of the architectur f theieo r period. Here was exhibited after execution the head of the famous James Guthrie promineno s , leadea t r amongs e Covenantersf th t o e on d an , the most distinguished Scotsmen of his day. He was born in Forfar- shire, and became a Professor at St Andrews, and knew Archbishop Sharp. In 1638 he was appointed Minister of Lauder. He attended Generae th l Assembly that same year signed an Covenan,e dth e th t a t Church of the Greyfriars, saying, " I shall die for what I have done this day, but I cannot die in a better cause." Tradition declares he passe sens publi e Churche dth wa t th e co t H executioney . wa e th n o r to Newcastle to meet Charles I., and advocate the cause of the Pres- bytery translates n wa 164I e ministre .th 9h o dt f Stirlingyo d an , became the head of the Protesters. After the , he met Oliver Cromwell, and discussed the relative advantages of in- dependency and the Presbytery, and went to London in 1657 to meet Cromwell again. Then cam e crowninth ef all o , t whicac g h sealed his fate. On August 23rd, 1660, with nine other ministers, he prepared petitioa Charleo nt preservo t . sII reformee eth d religio n Scotlandni . Party spirit ran high. He was at once arrested, and confined in , whence, on February 21st, 1661, he was brought befor e Scottisth e h Parliament condemned an , hangee e b th o dt t da Cross, his estate forfeited, and his head set up on the Netherbow. Ye t e noblesomth f eo s declared they would have nothin wito d ho gt 388 PKOCEEDINGS OF THE SOCIETY, MAY 13, 1912.

e blooth f thio d s righteous man. James Guthrie himself replied, Lordsy " M t nevele , r this sentence affec moru yo te tha t doen, i me s and let never my blood be required of the King's family." On June 1st, 1661, there was a sad parting with his little boy Willie before the hangman came. " Thin t e sham mannedeath,y no th k m f o f e o r " saith he, " for it is upon a good cause." He delivered his dying address with great calm. His body was e Netherbowth n o p d u s hea burie an t hi ,Kirk d dse d Ol d an ,e .inth little Willie, a lad of five years old, was a spectator of the barbarous scene. They say that a Jacobite noble, passing through the Netherbow in his state coach to attend Parliament, noticed drops of Guthrie's blood fall upo s burnishenhi d harness d orderean , s coachmadhi o nt wash away the stain. But the more the coachman washed and rubbed, the brighter that stain became, according to the fixed belief of every worthy Covenanter. Other heads founshare th do p t Netherbow e theispiky th n wa re o , yet none more famous than the head of James Guthrie, executed in a barbarous manne barbaroua n i r s age.