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The Lot Valley

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The Lot Valley France - The Lot Valley Naturetrek Tour Report 13 - 20 May 2006 Man x Monkey Orchid hybrid The Causse near Cabrerets Violet Limodore Images and report compiled by Mark Galliott Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report France - The Lot Valley Tour leader: Mark Galliott Tour participants: Mike Winter Sue Winter Chris Schofield Jan Beckett Patricia Bishop Marie Ramsden-Fisher Jan Willy George Potter Day 1 Saturday 13th May Warm, cloudy The flight was over an hour late into Toulouse where the group was welcomed by Mark, our locally based guide. After quickly loading up the mini-bus we then headed North up the Autoroute through the initially flat countryside, noting many Black Kites along the way. Leaving Montauban the hills at last started to close in around us, as we entered the area of the limestone “Causse”, with distant views of small villages and majestic chateaux. Here, we had our first glimpse of the remarkably rich flora of the area, with the road verges a riot of colour. Most prominent were the yellow of Scorpion Senna-Coronilla emerus, the white of Snow-in-summer- Cerastium tomentosum, the blue of Meadow Sage-Salvia pratensis and the lovely pink of the Rock Soapwort -Saponaria ocymoides. We had our first view of the River Lot near Cahors, before leaving the motorway and twisting our way down to Vers. Following the river eastwards, we noted the gradually more precipitous cliffs as the gorge narrowed, until we turned off left up the adjacent Célé valley for Cabrerets and our hotel. After allocating the rooms, we had the first of many lovely dinners, but before retiring to bed, a distant Scops Owl was heard calling, which turned out to be ever present all week. Day 2 Sunday 14th May Mist clearing, then sunny and hot Our first morning, we drove the short distance down into the village, before parking the minibus next to the ancient bridge that spans the clear waters of the River Célé. Serins were everywhere, with their distinctive tinkling song, but we also had good views of House Martins nesting on the village buildings with their cousins Crag Martins also on the more natural habitat of the cliffs overhead. From here we took a track which skirted another cliff with lovely views over the river back towards the village, already astounded by the sheer number of colourful blooms that surrounded us. These included Meadow Saxifrage-Saxifraga granulata, Bastard Balm-Mellitis melissophyllum, Wild Jasmine-Jasminus fruticans, Columbine- Aquilegia vulgaris, Bloody Crane’s-bill-Geranium sanguinium and Tassel Hyacinth-Muscari comosum. At the same time we were seemingly surrounded by birdsong, with many Nightingales and Blackcaps, and singles of both Bonelli’s and Melodious Warbler. © Naturetrek June 06 1 France - The Lot Valley Tour Report Moving up gradually onto the plateau into an area of scrub and grassland known as the Forêt de Monclar, we ate our first picnic lunch next to an old stone shepherd’s hut. Here along the forest rides we could enjoy the many butterflies that were now on the wing. Berger’s Clouded Yellow, both Scarce and Common Swallowtail, Black- veined White, Pearly Heath, and Adonis Blues were all abundant, with rarer species including Western Dappled White, Mallow and Red-underwing Skipper. Other attractive insects which caused plenty of discussion and were new to most of the group were the yellow and black Ascalaphids, Libelloides longicornis, and the beetle-like Field Crickets-Gryllus campestris. Further up the slope in more open areas many orchids were seen including Lady, Man, Burnt-tip, Early Purple, Monkey, Woodcock, and Lizard orchid in bud. Other interesting plants were Ground Pine-Ajuga chamaepitys, Blue Bugle-Ajuga genevensis, Grass-leaved Buttercup-Ranunculus gramineus, sheets of Wild Candytuft-Iberis amara, and Small Alison-Alyssum allysoides. The latter is now practically extinct in the UK. Near a Neolithic dolmen (burial chamber) a little Stripe-less Tree Frog-Hyla meridionalis was found along with its tadpole offspring in the adjacent small pond, while a pair of Red-backed Shrikes and a Tawny Pipit delighted the birdwatchers. Day 3 Monday 15th May Hot and sunny A short drive brought us to Bouzies across the River Lot via a very narrow bridge, noting the imposing “Defile des Anglais” built into the cliff along the way. We parked near the river here, and started by walking alongside the river through some pleasant meadows noticing the attractive Crimson Clover-Trifolium incarnatum, and good numbers of the attractive little Meadow Fritillary butterfly. The cliffs were now towering away above our heads and the path increasingly hugged the base as we continued onto the “Chemin de halage”. This is a towpath spectacularly carved into the side of the cliff to enable gangs of men to pull boats along in the days before powered craft. It was here we had very close views of Crag Martins as they flew up and down and around us, now and again returning to their nests on the cliff just above our heads. This was also a good place for some nice plants with Tower Cress-Arabis turrita, the lovely blue Purple Gromwell-Ltihospermum purpurocoeruleum, and in one spot where moisture seeped down from above a huge clump of Maidenhair Fern-Adiantum capillus-veneris. We were now nearing the lovely “hanging village” of St Cirq-Lapopie with its ancient half-timbered houses and wonderful views of the river valley far below. After a short stiff climb everyone was then able to enjoy the sights there, before we had our picnic lunch in the shady village square. Here from the viewpoint we were able to see some Alpine Swifts in amongst the more numerous Common Swifts. During the afternoon we gradually worked our way back down through mainly woodland to the mini-bus by means of attractive footpaths and tracks. Interesting plants seen were Carthusian Pink-Dianthus carthusianorum, Black Pea-Lathrus niger, and the orchid Violet Limodore just coming into flower. Along here much shuffling and grunting from the middle of some very dense undergrowth caused a heated debate over whether the origin came from a Wild Boar or a much more mundane source, a human cutting wood? As the evening was warm and sunny, after dinner we drove a little way up the Célé valley to a cliff face which is a regular nesting site for a pair of Eagle Owls. We parked by the river just as the light was fading and quickly walked to where we had a good view of the nest area on the cliff. After a little while, a bird emerged from 2 © Naturetrek June 06 France - The Lot Valley Tour Report somewhere near the top of the crag, perched for a short while on a rock, before flying off over the “causse” in search of prey. Naturally everyone present was extremely impressed with the sheer size of this rare and secretive bird (the largest European Owl), and it was a spectacular and fitting way for us to end another wonderful day. Day 4 Tuesday 16th May Rain clearing then sunny periods, hot and humid Because of the uncertainty of the weather, we decided to visit the Peche Merle caves first thing in the morning and then hope that the weather improved later. These have many spectacular prehistoric cave paintings of horses, bison, mammoths, fish, and negative hands, as well as some wonderful formations of stalactites and stalagmites. After the visit to the cave the group then looked around the very informative museum with everyone enjoying this rather different form of nature spotting! The weather was improving now, so after eating our lunch in one of the cave car parks we decided to explore the back roads, and to spend the rest of the afternoon at a view point overlooking Cahors. Emerging onto the plateau we firstly paused by the roadside, where Skylarks and Corn Buntings were singing and showing well, before stopping to explore an area of rough scrub and grassland. Many good plants were in bloom here including Blue Pimpernel-Anagallis foemina, Fly Orchid-Ophrys insectifera, Spring Sandwort-Minuartia verna, Feather Grass- Stipa pennata, and the delicate little blue Knapweed-like Carduncellus mitissimus. Reaching a good viewpoint over the river Lot we were then treated to our first Red Kites, and also our first Cleopatra butterflies, the males being similar to a Brimstone, but with distinctive orange markings on the wings. Moving on to Mont St Cyr we admired the magnificent views of Cahors with its medieval quarter, and the huge meander of the River Lot which almost encircles the town here. There are extensive grasslands here and it also is a good place for orchids and other interesting plants. Oxtongue Broomrape-Orobanche picridis were numerous, while Man and Lizard Orchids were abundant everywhere, the latter now in full flower, showing what an attractive plant it can be. The rare hybrid between Man & Monkey-Orchiaceras bergonii was also pointed out to group. Back at the hotel after dinner, the strange sound of at least one Nightjar could be heard high up on the opposite cliff-face. Day 5 Wednesday 17th May Sunny, very hot A pleasant drive up the Lot valley, and through the small town of Cajarc up onto the high “Causse” brought us to the Mas de Pégouriés. Here there is a patchwork of woodland, scrub, and more open country grazed by sheep, with impressive dolmens a relic of the very distant past. We parked the minibus, and immediately started to climb up to the highest point here with superb views over the surrounding area.
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