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A Anchovies, 88, 101, 122, 123, Abalone, 40, 44, 146, 151 129, 156 Abbott, Edward, 127, 201, 202 Ancient China, 139 Aboriginal people, 18 Anderson, Benedict, 191 Activists, 166 Andrieu, Pierre, 139, 151 Acton, Eliza, 201 Ang, Ien, 19 Adams, Virginia, 118 Anglo-Burmese, 94 Adaptation, 18, 43, 86, 132–134 Anglo-Chinese, 11, 113, 120, Adulterate (d), 31, 76 124, 198 Advertisements, 143, 145, 194, 198, Anglo-Indian cuisine, 114, 115, 117 202, 205, 207, 210 Ang-See, Carmelea, 98 Afternoon tea, 22, 23, 30, 31, 101, Anhui, 55, 59, 142–144 122, 145, 146 Anhui people, 143 Agrarian food culture, 118 Antipodean, 126, 201 Ah Chong, 169 Appadurai, Arjun, 125, 178, 194 Aitkin, Greg, 149, 150 Apple(s), 9, 17, 27, 33, 69, 75, 78, Ajinomoto, 66 126, 128–130, 132, 154, 167 Albala, Ken, 1, 2 Appropriation, 86, 121–124, 208 Alexander, Stephanie, 41 Arabs, 88, 92, 155, 159 All About Shanghai and Environs, 54, Archives, 10, 14, 149, 194 68, 70, 75–77, 145 Argyriou, Ellen, 18 Alluvial soils, 56 Armenians, 92, 93, 148 Amah, 67, 70, 175 Aromatics, 60, 88, 92, 96, 99, American Club, 68 124, 138 Americanization, 35, 152, 178 Art Gallery Café, 41 American restaurants, 142, 145, 146 Astor ballroom, 68

© The Author(s) 2019 235 C. Leong-Salobir, Urban Food Culture, https://doi.org/10.1057/978-1-137-51691-6 236 INDEX

Astor House, 69, 145 Banks Meadow, 169 Attiki Pty Ltd Food Products, 35 Bannerman, Colin, 19, 128, 129, Attiwill, K., 101 204, 210 Australia, 5, 6, 13, 17–23, 25, 26, 28, Banquet(s), 5, 67, 140, 141, 143, 30, 31, 34–36, 38, 39, 41–48, 144, 148, 190 69, 83, 120, 126–128, 130–132, Barbarian dishes, 118 134, 150, 166–168, 170, 183, Barbecue, 27 184, 190, 191, 193, 197, Barracks Café, 41 201–205, 210 “Bastard” cuisine, 39 Australia Hotel, 28, 132 Batik Grill, 122 Australian cuisine, 13, 19, 20, 22, Bean paste, 63, 66, 98 35–38, 41, 48 Beckett, Richard, 27, 36 Australian ham, 68, 77 Beckwith-Smith, M.B., 104 Australian Heritage Cookbook, The, 132 Beef, 7–9, 19, 21, 27, 33, 43, 44, 68, Australian Humanities Review, 166 69, 71, 72, 77, 85, 89, 96, 99, Australian Imperial Forces, 180 101, 102, 105, 106, 115, 118, Australianness, 201 122–124, 126, 128, 131, 151, Australian Women’s Weekly 161, 174, 179, 183, 199, 208 Cookbook, The, 203 Bee Hive Coffee Palace, 36 Aux Freres Provencaux, Café Belimbing, 96 Restaurant de Paris, 36 Belmore markets, 169 Ayam brand, 103 Benbang, 142 Ayam sioh, 96 Benbangcai, 143 A&W, 108 Bencoolen, 94, 156 Bennelong at the Opera House, 41 Beri beri, 64, 103, 104, 208 B Beriss, David, 9, 138 Babi assam garam, 96 Berowra Waters Inn, 38, 41 Baby boomers, 134 Bianchi, 145 Bailey, Matthew, 184 Bickers, Robert, 6–8, 66, 115, Bakerite Bakery, 73 116, 143 Ballantyne, Tony, 2, 114 Billy tea, 23, 27 Balmain, 183 Bilson, Gay, 38, 39, 41, 42, 48 Bamboo Restaurant, 151 Bilson, Tony, 38, 39, 41, 42 Banana Leaf Apolo, 92 Bird nest, 44 Banana plantations, 168, 172 Bishop, P., 155 Bananas, 26, 29, 75, 78, 92, 106, 123, Black, Sarah Jane Shepherd, 203 129, 132, 133, 160, 171, 172, Black Hole, 160 175, 198 crab, 86 Banerji, C., 131 Black swan, 19, 183 Bangladeshis, 160 Black & White 4D Milk Bar, 35 Bangs, Datu Haji Mohamed Yusuf, Blainey, Geoffrey, 31 105, 107 Blake, Myrna L., 94 INDEX 237

Blancmange, 71 Butchery (butcheries), 6, 20, 43, 44, Blaut, J.M., 5, 10, 172 77, 152, 176, 182, 183 Bligh, William, 182 Butter, 17, 31–34, 37, 66, 69, 71, 76, Blue Funnel Liners, 83 94, 113, 129, 132, 133, 161, Boarders, 149 180, 183, 184, 205 Boarding houses, 45, 149, 167 Boileau, Janet P., 93 Boileau, Joanna, 45, 166 C Boiled water store, 65 Cabbage, 10, 35, 59, 60, 64, 67, 96, Bon Goût, 42, 48 118, 165, 167, 168, 176, 184 Boone, H.W., 74 Cabinet making, 168 Bor lor kai, 150 Cabramatta, 6, 20, 46 Boston, 25 Cafes, 1, 6, 9–10, 13, 18, 20, 21, 27, Bowden, V.G. Mrs, 11, 120, 196, 199 30, 33–36, 39, 41, 42, 44, Boyanese, 155, 161 46–48, 66, 69, 85, 88, 89, 108, Bracken, Gregory, 13 119, 121, 122, 128, 137–162, Breakfast, 22, 23, 34, 37, 63–65, 68, 171, 182, 190, 191 69, 71, 73, 88, 91, 105, 106, Caiguan, 142 153, 154, 156, 161, 200, 207 Calder-Marshall, R. Mrs, 113, 198, 199 Brice, Ethel, 194, 195 Caldwell, Melissa, 86, 87 Brien, Donna Lee, 19, 193 Cameron, J., 72 British Armed Forces, 122 Camp, 27, 104–107, 207, 208 British Consulate, 55 Canidrome Ballroom, 68 British households, 117, 161 Canteen, 36, 56, 105, 121, 146, 155 British Military Administration Cantonese, 8, 10, 44, 46, 57, 91, 104, (BMA), 103 138, 140–142, 147, 159, 169, British war funds, 199 172, 190, 199 Britons, 7, 8, 13, 23, 32, 54, 71, Cantonese food, 140, 144, 145 113, 115–117, 119, 121, 122, Cantonese sausage, 44 124, 207 Cao, Zhi, 149 Bryant, P.L. Mrs, 113, 198, 199 Capon, 72, 151 Buah keluak, 96 Caramel custard, 100 Buffalo meat, 180 Cargo Mill, 182 Bugis, 104, 155, 161 Carlton Café, 69, 145 Buley, E. C., 19, 22–25, 29, 183 Carrefour, 181 Bund, 68, 143 Carrots, 10, 35, 94, 113, 132, 149, Burghers, 94 167, 168, 170, 176 Burma, 94, 101 Cashman, Richard, 35, 182, 184 Burnell, A.C., 131 Castro, Fidel, 191 Burton, David, 125 Cathay, 69, 138, 144, 147 Bush life, 23 Cathay Hotel, 141, 145 238 INDEX

Cathay Mansions, 70 Chim, May Bo, 186 Cathay Restaurant, 138, 147 China, 4, 5, 7, 8, 32, 39, 40, 43, Cattle food nut cake, 104 45–47, 53–61, 66, 70, 71, 73, 74, Cattle markets, 167, 182 83, 84, 86, 90, 91, 99, 117, 118, Cauliflower, 10, 35, 165, 167, 168 139–142, 146, 149, 155, 166, Celebrity status, 146 169, 177, 179, 190, 200, 206, 207 Census of New South Wales, 167 Chinatown, 6, 20, 39, 40, 45–47, Centennial Park Café, 41 148, 149, 158, 160, 167 Central Vegetable Market, 176 Chinatown Heritage Centre, 148, 160 Cercle e Francais, 68 Chinee, 168 Ceylonese, 155 Chinese, 4, 12, 20, 53, 54, 85, 115, Chaircuitiers-saulcissiers, 151 138, 165, 190 Champagne, 32, 71 Chinese cafes, 27, 35, 150, 190 Champérard, 38 Chinese cookbooks, 190, 196–197, 200 Chan, Gabrielle, 23, 25 Chinese diaspora, 4, 5, 47 Chan, Sow Lin, 192 Chinese Humpy, 169 Chang, F.L., 58, 199 Chinese vegetables, 21, 24, 44, 168 Chang Nieh-yun, 199 Chinese women, 159, 170 Changi Jail, 208 Chitty Melaka, 95, 96 Changi Military Camp, 104 Chocolate Shop, 73, 145 , 86, 99 Cholera, 74, 104, 156 Char kwei, 154 Chook, 165 Charcoal stoves, 140 Chow mein, 30, 150 Chaudhuri, N., 125 Chows, 168 Cheeses, 20, 23, 32, 35, 69, 71, 104 Christmas, 33, 74, 94, 106 Chen, Xiangming, 9, 178 Christmas Day, 106 Chen, Yong, 43, 44 Chu, Shuen Choo, 102 Cheng, Nien, 60, 62, 63, 68, 146 Chua, Beng Huat, 8, 86, 93, 97–99, Chez Rovere, 119 192, 193 Chia, Felix, 102, 103 Chui , 88 Chia Yee Kwan, 149 Chun goon, 150 Chianti, 142 , 9, 123, 126, 129, 132, 133, Chicago of the East, 160 198, 210 Chicken chop, 3, 100, 117, 121, 122 Cinema, 35, 58, 148 Chicken country captain, 7 Citrus fruit, 69 Chicken pie, 21, 94, 196 Claremont Café, 42 Chicken rice, 85, 98, 104, 119, Class, 2, 28, 66, 102, 113, 115, 122, 159, 161 124, 126, 131, 193, 205 Chien, Y. Ng, 95, 97 Classic Milk Bar, 182 Children, 26, 67, 102, 106, 157, Cleland curry, 120, 198 170, 183 Clifford, Nicholas R., 68, 70, 71 , 85, 86, 137, 138, 148 Clogs, 174 INDEX 239

Clubs, 5, 20, 42, 66–69, 89, 101, Convict, 3, 5, 6, 17–48, 91 115, 116, 119, 123, 144–146, Cook, Christopher, 68–70, 145 161, 207 Cookbooks, 1–3, 10–11, 14, 17, 19, Clunies-Ross, Barbara, 105, 106 21, 23, 26, 29, 36, 41, 72, 93, CM Ping, 45 94, 97, 113, 115, 120, 124, 125, Cocktail, 23, 68, 71, 101, 199 127, 128, 130, 190–210 milk, 88, 89, 94, 100, 123, Cooks, 11, 13, 25, 36, 38, 40, 41, 57, 129, 131 67, 68, 70, 72, 73, 93, 96, 97, Coffee palaces, 36 107, 113, 118, 120, 122, 127, Coffee shop, 20, 34, 92, 101, 104, 129, 147, 159, 180, 183, 190, 149, 155, 158–162 191, 193, 195–199, 201, 209, 210 Colbar, 121, 122 Cook shops, 139 Cold meat, 128, 129, 210 Coolie, 67, 70, 157, 158, 169 Cold storage, 5, 171 Cope, Suzanne, 191, 192 Cold Storage, 179, 180 Copra, 84, 155 Coles, 30, 184 Coquinarii, 151 Collaboration, 117 Cornelius, Vernon Christopher, 156 Collingham, L., 124–126, 130 Coronation Cookery Book, The, 132, 133 Colombo Plan, 191 Cosmopolitan, 4, 7, 17–48, 53–55, Colonial Bar, 121 60, 84, 140, 142, 144, 145, 154, Colonial cuisine, 2, 3, 7, 11, 13, 72, 155, 190, 203 100, 114, 117, 121, 196, 197 Cotton mills, 43, 55, 63, 64 Colonial foodways, 9, 114, 195 Courtesans, 57 Colonial legacies, 1, 8–9, 113–134, 200 Cousland, P.B., 74 Colonial past, 21, 22, 67, 121 Crab paste, 66 Colonial Secretary, 156, 157 Craw, Charlotte, 19 Colonial structures, 116, 122 Crêpes suzette, 122 Colony, 2, 3, 7–9, 11, 13, 17–48, 67, Creste, 68 70–72, 83, 84, 93, 100, 113–116, Crewe Circular, 93 121, 122, 124–127, 168, 172, Crispy duck, 148 179, 195–197, 200, 201, 207 Crockpot, 128 Commensality, 10, 87 Crofts, 184 Commonsense Cookery Book, The, 23, Crow, C., 70, 73, 140, 142, 146 24, 26, 127, 128 Crystal prawn, 148 Communal kitchen, 63, 159 Cucumber, 31, 87, 89, 101, 102, Community cookbooks, 193, 194, 104, 123 199, 203–206 Cuisine, 1, 3–8, 11–13, 19–22, 29, Compass points, 55, 56 35–44, 48, 55, 56, 58–61, Compiled cookbook, 203, 204 68–70, 84–88, 91, 93–96, 98, Concessions, 55, 62, 66, 146, 176 100, 114–120, 122, 125, 126, Coney Dogs, 108 130, 131, 141–148, 190–193, , 64, 158, 207 200, 203, 207 Convenience stores, 177, 181 Cuisiniers, 151 240 INDEX

Culinary nostalgia, 7, 61 Department store(s), 5, 30, 116, 144, Culinary Occidentalism, 118, 120 171, 182, 184 Culinary relic(s), 8, 113 Depression, 17, 19, 24, 32, 34, 202 Cultural connection, 192 Diamond Jubilee, 119, 143 Cultural exchange, 3, 131, 171 Diaspora, 4, 5, 47, 97, 195 Cultural tales, 194 Dickins, 184 Culty’s Milk, 76 Dinner, 21–23, 27–30, 32, 36, 37, 64, Cuneiform recipes, 194 67–69, 71–74, 97, 101, 104–107, Curried bananas, 129, 133 113, 117, 126, 131–133, 140, Curried chicken rice, 119, 146, 161 141, 145, 209 Curried ox tail, 120, 198 Dinner dances, 68, 145 Curried Oysters, 129 Diphtheria, 104 Curry, 2, 3, 9, 17, 22, 24, 32, 71, 85, Disgust, 117, 166 86, 88, 92, 94, 98, 100, 102, Dishonesty, 72, 73 107, 113, 114, 119–130, 132, Domestic cooks, 93, 117, 193, 209 133, 198–201, 204, 210 Dong, Stella, 56 Curry and rice, 71, 72, 126–128 Downes, Stephen, 33, 37, 38, 40, Curry chicken, 121 41, 48 Curry powder, 9, 17, 24, 94, 113, Doyle, Peter, 38 124–130, 132, 133, 201 Dragon Phoenix Restaurant, 138, 148 Curry puffs, 101, 122, 162 Dragons, 54, 144 Curry tiffin, 100, 101, 123, 128 Dried fruit industry, 130 Curthoys, Ann, 168 Driver, Elizabeth, 203 Drunken chicken, 59 Duck, 19, 44–46, 56, 57, 60, 61, 65, D 67, 69, 73, 91, 105, 117, 123, da Silva’s Victoria , 162 146, 148, 150, 168, 174–176, 183 Dai fan, 64 (s), 60, 61, 65, 143, 152 Dairy, 4, 75–77, 167, 170, 179, 182, Dupleix, Jill, 47 198, 210 Duruz, Jean, 1, 46, 87, 95, 155, 192, Dale, David, 36, 47 193, 203 Damper, 21, 27 Dutch , 69 Dansereau, Serge, 38 Dysentery, 74, 104, 208 Darwent, C. E., 73, 77, 141, Dyson, Laurel Evelyn, 20, 26, 29 145, 176 Daunton-Fear, F., 21 Davenport, C.J., 74 E David Jones, 30 E, Mrs, 126 Davis Dainty Dishes, The, 210 Earnshaw, Graham, 68 Davison, Julian, 123 Eastern cuisine, Chinese, 55, 56, 59 Debal, 94 East India Company, 115, 131 Delicatessen, 6, 20, 21, 27, 182 East-Meets-West, 38 INDEX 241

Economic boom, 108 Farmers, 10, 56, 105, 152, 168–170, Economic tool, 197 172, 174, 176 , 99, 158, 160 Farmers markets, 165 Egalitarian, 131 Farmstead, 20 Eggs with sausage and chips, 121 Farrer, James, 55, 118, 120 Eight Precious Chicken, 57 Farrer, R.J., 157 Elderly men, 65, 149 Feast and famine, 142 Electric trams, 58 Federation of Malaysia, 108, 121 Elizabethan Grill, 122 Fei, H.T., 59 Emperor of Japan, 104 Feng Shaoting, 7, 62, 63, 65, 66, Empire, 1–3, 17, 23, 30, 53, 72, 85, 153, 154 100, 114–116, 124, 139, 197 Ferguson, Priscilla Parkhurst, 11 Endangered cuisine, 192 Fernandez Fish Café, 34 Enders, Elizabeth Crump, 7, 63, 65, Fernandez-Armesto, Felipe, 134 67, 154 Fertilizers, 75, 77, 104, 107, 170, 173 Energy companies, 210 Field Bakery, 105 Entrepôt, 84 Fiji, 172 Entrepreneur, 5, 6, 20, 32, 139, 171 Filipinos, 160 Environment Ministry, 175 Fine dining, 4, 9, 10, 21, 30, 36–43, Espresso bars, 34 47, 48, 91, 122, 138 Ethnic cuisines, 88 Finkelstein, Joanne, 139 Eurasians, 12, 85, 93–95, 98, 103, 105, First Fleet, 17, 18 107, 115, 121, 155, 156, 196 Fish, 3, 19, 23, 24, 32–34, 36, 40, Europeans, 5, 6, 8, 10, 13, 17, 18, 20, 43–46, 53, 54, 56, 57, 59, 60, 21, 29, 34, 41, 44, 48, 55, 57, 64, 67, 69, 71, 72, 74, 75, 78, 66–68, 70, 72, 84, 93, 94, 101, 89–91, 96, 98, 99, 101–107, 103, 107, 113–116, 119–122, 118, 122, 123, 125, 128, 129, 124, 130, 138–140, 143, 144, 131, 141, 146, 149, 150, 155, 157, 161, 168, 173, 175, 152–154, 160, 174–176, 182, 176, 179, 180, 182, 190, 196, 183, 199, 207 198, 199, 204, 209 Fish and chips, 27, 121, 161 Evans, Suzanne, 208 Fishcafs, 33–34 Evening Star, The, 73, 77, 117, 118 Fishermen, 44, 56 Everyday Low Price (EDLP), 181 , 86, 92 Excrement, 75 Fishing village, 3, 53, 54, 84 Exotic, 13, 40, 46, 134, 144 Fitzgerald, Shirley, 46, 149 Exoticism, 9, 125, 138 Five-footway, 158 Flour mills, 182 Flu epidemic, 24 F Foo, Kee Sing, 174, 175 Familiarity, 10, 11, 134, 138 Food and water contamination, 74 Famine, 4, 60, 90, 142 Food anxiety, 74–78 Fandian, 142, 143 Food appropriation, 86, 208 242 INDEX

Food control inspector, 103 Fulton, Margaret, 128, 194, 203, 210 Food court, 8, 85, 92, 122, 152, Fundraising cookbook, 203 154–160 Furniture factory workers, 43, 44 Food culture, 2, 4, 7, 11, 19, 21, 28, Furrow irrigation, 166 55, 58, 61, 100, 115, 118, 120, 130, 144, 157 Food exchange, 6, 18 G Food history, 1, 2, 14, 19, 26, 122 Gabaccia, Donna R., 12, 13 Food market, 1, 9, 10, 62, 138, 146, Gabriel, Vincent, 89, 91, 92 152–154, 166, 176 , 88 Food metaphor, 87 Gao, James Z., 58, 143 Food shortage(s), 23, 60, 83, 101–108 , 58, 64, 88, 90, 92, 94, 99, Food stall, 5, 8, 63, 108, 122, 146, 105, 125, 128, 129, 131, 137 154–160 Gas lighting, 57 Foodways, 1, 2, 4, 6, 8–10, 18, 21, Gastronomy, 36, 59 46, 55, 95, 114, 115, 118, 120, Gault et Millau, 38, 48 123, 128, 138, 194, 195, 203 Gaynor, Andrea, 167 Foraging, 18 Gender, 2, 66, 131 Formal dinner(s), 29, 117, 126 Germans, 38, 55, 142, 145, 146, Forsyth, Ann, 80 190, 197 Fortune, Robert, 53 Geylang Serai, 89, 98 Franck, Harry, 116 Gill, Lydia, 27, 30, 33–35 Franklins, 184 Gilmore, Mary, 205 French, 28, 29, 36–38, 40–42, 47, 48, drink, 156, 161 55, 94, 119, 122, 132, 142, 145, , 89 146, 181, 182, 190, 196, 198, 199 Global cultural flows, 178 French classics, 122 Global dish, 114, 124 French Club, 69, 144 Globalization, 1–4, 10, 12, 54, 101, French Concession, 55, 62, 176 166, 177, 178 French Revolution, 139 balls, 63, 65 Fried dough stick, 63, 65, 153, 154 Goh, Chor Boon, 180 , 67, 99, 105, 150, 189 Golden Wattle Cookery Book, The, 132 Frogs’ legs, 67 Goldfields, 5, 6, 10, 20, 45, 166–168 Frozen sewage, 78 Goldman, Arieh, 177, 178 Fruiterer, 168 Gomes, Mary, 94 Fruit trade, 183 Gomez, M.J., 92 Fu Ch’un, 141 Goodman, Bryna, 60, 61, 143, 144 Fuchs, G.M., 58 Goose, 60, 151 Fujian, 8, 55, 90 Goose-cooks, 151 Fujian province, 90, 158 Gourds, 96, 152 Fukien food, 145 Gourmet cooking, 56 Fukienese, 142 Governance, 13, 113 INDEX 243

Government House, 29 Henderson, Joan Catherine, 12, 86, 95 Grand Central Coffee Palace, 36 Henriot, Christian, 58 Great Depression, 24 Herald, The, 27, 190 Great Leap Forward Campaign, 60 Herbal pear syrup candy, 153 Great Western Coffee Palace, 36 Heritage, 8, 12, 24, 86, 93, 94, 144, Greek café, 30, 34–36 160, 166, 192, 196 Greengrocer, 6, 13, 20, 167, 183 Heritage artefacts, 192 Green mango, 96 Hilda Cross, 19 , 44, 55, 61, 140, 144, 169 Historical documents, 191, 193 Guangzhou, 55, 91, 104, 149 Historical texts, 208 Gula , 100 Ho, Chi Tim, 107 Gula melaka, 100, 123, 124, 199 Hock Chew, 158 Guo brothers, 5, 63, 171 Hock Chia, 158 Gwee, Thian Hock, 97 , 90, 91, 95, 158, 159, 175 , 90, 158 Hokkien-Malay, 95 H Höllmann, Thomas O., 56, 59 Hagemeyer Electronics, 210 Holuigue, Diane, 47 Haggis, 145 Home cooking, 13, 21–27, 72, 85, Hainanese, 8, 98, 159, 161, 162, 175 91, 121, 128, 175, 193, 196 Hairy crabs, 57 Homes, 4, 6, 7, 13, 18, 21–27, 29, Hakka, 98 30, 32, 36, 37, 46, 58, 61–66, Halal, 98, 99 68–74, 77, 83, 85, 87, 89, 91, Ham, 27, 31, 40, 67, 68, 71, 77, 118, 96, 100, 103, 105, 115, 116, 130, 132, 142, 146, 153, 183, 189 118, 121, 123, 126–128, 130, Hamburger steak, 119 146, 153–155, 157, 159, 175, Handy, Ellice, 131, 196 176, 184, 190, 191, 193, 195, Hang Fa Lau, 140, 145 196, 202–206, 209, 210 Harry Sing, 151 Homogenization, 178 Harvard University, 208 Homogenizing cultures, 9, 138 Haute cuisine, 29, 36, 48, 131 Hongkew Dairy, 76 , 9, 115, 138, 192 Hong Kong, 45–47, 91 Hawker(s), 7–9, 22, 24, 86, 93, 98, Hongkong and Shanghai Hotels, 119 102, 108, 115, 138–140, 147, Hong Sing, 45 149, 152–160, 162, 175, 181, Honig, Emily, 63, 64 182, 192, 193 Hooi, James, 148, 149, 192 Hawkerpreneur, 139 Hooi Kok Wai, 147 Hawkesbury River, 41 Horner, R.M., 104–106 Health tonics, 139 Hors d’oeuvres, 37, 57, 69 Heldke, Lisa, 193, 194 Hotel, 27–29, 37, 47, 67–70, 101, 103, Helper, 70 116, 119, 121, 122, 132, 141, Henderson, James, 71 143–148, 150, 156, 159, 161, 170 244 INDEX

Hotel de France, 145 Imagined communities, 191 Hot water stores, 65 Immigrants, 6, 9, 20, 24, 29, 39, Household, 2, 10, 13, 24, 25, 59, 60, 84–85, 90, 96, 138, 139, 151, 65, 70, 72, 73, 78, 93, 100, 103, 152, 155, 166, 167 116, 117, 120, 126, 161, 166, Imperial chef, 57 167, 169, 173, 181, 184, 192, Imperialism, 53, 114, 121 194, 195, 197, 198, 201, 204, Imperial tea, 32 205, 209 Imprisonment, 76, 208 Household manuals, 2, 10 Inche kabin, 161 Housewives, 22, 26, 58, 118, 127, Independence, 31, 97, 108, 121, 161 191, 201, 209 India, 3, 7, 8, 11, 13, 21, 70, 72, 83, Housing & Development Board, 84, 86, 91, 95, 100, 114–117, 172, 174 120, 123, 125, 126, 128, 130, Huangshan, 141 131, 191, 195, 197, 200, 209 Huaqiao, 4 Indian curry, 120, 198 Hudd, Sandra, 102, 105, 122 Indian , 90 Humble, Nicola, 11, 126 Indian-Muslim Bakery & Hummus wars, 86 Confectionary, 92 Hunan, 46, 55, 60 Indians, 2, 3, 6, 8, 11, 12, 20, 31, 64, Hunwick, Heather, 210 70, 84–86, 88, 89, 91–99, 107, Hurstville, 46 114, 115, 125, 126, 131, 155, Hush, Joanna, 59 156, 159, 160, 174, 180, 195, Hutcheon, Jane, 57 196, 199 Hutton, Wendy, 94, 122 Indigenous Australians, 201 Hyam, Ronald, 93 (n), 8, 86–88, 96, 196 Hybrid cuisine, 3, 8, 94, 115, 116, Indus region, 125 126, 200 Infrastructure, 46, 47, 57, 171, Hybridized cuisine, 117, 118 177, 194 Hygiene, 71, 73, 75, 76, 156, 159, 179 Ingredients, 2, 4–6, 11–14, 17, 21, Hypermarkets, 177, 179, 181 24, 38, 40, 42–44, 48, 55, 66, 85, 87, 91, 92, 94, 96–100, 105, 114, 115, 118, 124, 127, 128, I 131–133, 146, 148, 153, 175, Ice, 25, 26, 30, 35, 71, 78, 145, 153, 190–193, 196, 199, 201, 204, 159, 162, 180, 182 207, 208, 210 Ice chest, 78 International Settlement, 54, 55, 57, Ice cream, 30, 35, 145, 162, 182 62, 66, 118, 119, 143 Ice-cream sodas, 35, 162 Internees, 104, 106, 107, 207 Ice water sellers, 159 Ireland, Lynne, 203, 204 Iconic dishes, 12, 85, 86 Irwin, William Wallace, 47 Ikan bilis, 88, 123 Islamic Restaurant, 92 Ilangovan, Malarvele, 92, 99 Islamization, 98 INDEX 245

Islamized food, 99 Kearney, A.T., 1 Italian, 6, 20, 24, 30, 34, 36, 37, 39, Kebab, 88, 89 42, 43, 142, 145, 146, 150, 190, , 3, 7, 8, 11, 100, 114, 115, 197, 199, 203 117, 119, 121, 130, 196, 198, Itinerant food vendors, 7, 151–154 207, 209 Keema Roti, 122 Kenney-Herbert, A. R., 115 J Kerala, 91, 92 Jabbar, Ibrahim, 192 , 89 Jansen, D.C., 145 KFC, 108 Japanese, 40, 42, 55, 66, 97, Khoo, Gaik Cheng, 87, 95, 155 101–107, 142, 161, 180, 207 King, Paul, 71, 74 Japanese houses, 142 King’s Chinese, 96 Japanese Military Administration Kingston, Beverly, 184 (MAD), 102, 180 Kinsey, W.E., 195 Japanese Occupation, 97, 104, 161, Kirkby, Diane, 28, 30 180, 207 Kitchen, 22, 25, 38, 39, 56, 62, 63, Javanese, 88, 98, 155, 159, 161 67, 72, 93, 94, 96, 97, 139, 142, Jenganan, 161 143, 145, 148, 152, 159, 190, Jewish, 6, 20, 42, 156 192–194, 196–199, 203, 204, Jews, 92, 93, 155 208–210 Jiachang, 144 Kitching, Thomas, 180 Jiangsu, 55, 59, 140, 141 Knight, Jessica, 26, 31, 32 Jing, Cuan, 152, 176 Knipp, Peter A., 121 John Chinaman, 10, 168 Koh, Tommy, 86 Joint of roast, 27 Kopitiam, 160–162 Jonah, 165 Krider, Robert, 185 Joseph Baker’s, 162 , 123 Jugged kangaroo, 201 Kueh koci, 95, 97 Junor, Andrew, 22 Kueh lapis, 97 Kuhn, Irene Corbally, 5, 69, 141, 144 Kumiai, 102 K Kwong Who Hin Sauce Factory, 91 Kaishas, 102 Kwong, Kylie, 42 Kallang River, 138 Kye Ming, 162 Kan, Har Ye, 80 Kyritsis, Janni, 38, 41 Kangaroo, 11, 19, 126, 132, 183, 196, 201 Kangaroo pasty, 201 L Kangaroo steamer, 19, 201 La Palette, 42 Kangkung, 104, 105 La Perouse, 169, 171 Katong Rest House, 101 La Pyramide, 42 Kaya, 97 Lai, Ah Eng, 160, 161 246 INDEX

Laksa, 95, 132 Lucio’s, 36 Lamb, 9, 19, 21, 27, 33, 69, 113, Luckins, Tanja, 28 126, 151, 179, 200 Luo Chen, 147 Lamb, Corinne, 200, 201 Lychee, 44, 73, 171 Lao Yung Shun, 141 Laohuzao, 65 Lapaloma, 101 M Lau Yoke Pui, 147 Macgregor, Paul, 120 Laudan, Rachel, 36 Maclurcan, H., 19, 29, 129 Leaf-stem vegetable, 8, 10, 172, 173 Magazines, 10, 14, 21, 47, 48, 116, Lea & Perrins, 142 194, 203, 205 Le Coq d’Or, 42 Magnus, Walter, 42 Lee, Chin Koon, 93 Magpie-geese, 19, 183 Lee, Kuan Yew, 8, 108, 173, 174 Majestic Café, 145 Lee, Liang Hye, 161, 181 Malaria, 104 Leisure, 26, 67 Malay, 4, 7, 8, 53, 84–91, 93, 95–100, Lemon, 69, 88, 99, 128, 129, 132, 103, 104, 107, 127, 148, 155, 133, 167, 198 156, 159, 174, 175, 180, 199 Leong-Salobir, Cecilia, 3, 13, 68, 72, Malaya, 4, 91, 93, 128, 180, 200, 75, 93, 100, 115–117, 123, 124, 204, 205, 208 131, 180, 195, 204 Malay hegemony, 87 Leung, Jereme, 5, 146 Mallos, Tess, 18 Liew, Cheong, 38 Mamak, 161 Lim, C.J., 4 The Mandarin, 40, 151 Lim, Kee Chan, 101, 161 Man t’ou, 200 Lim, Keng, 192 Mandarin, 40, 154 Lin Fu Chai, 141 Manfredi, Stefano, 38, 39, 42, 43 Lin, Hsiang Ju, 56, 57, 59, 60 Mangosteen, 72, 159, 175 Lin, Tsuifeng, 56, 57, 59, 60 Manly, 168, 170 Lin-Liu, Jen, 56, 60, 142, 146 Mao Tze-Tung (Chairman), 60, 62 Lion’s head, 60 Marcell’s, 145 Llewellyn, A.E., 204 Market garden(s)(er)(ing), 4–6, 8, 10, Lo, Eileen Yin-Fei, 57 14, 20, 21, 24, 27, 32, 44, 45, L’Oasis at La Napoule, 42 77, 149, 165–173, 179, 182 Lobster, 44, 69, 122, 146 Markey, Douglas Clive, 21 Longtou, 54 Marrickville, 35, 182 Loong Shan Tea House, 32 Marrickville Margarine Co Ltd, 184 Lotus seeds, 57, 153 Marschall, Sabine, 121 Lu Xun, 65, 154 Mascot, 169 Lu, Hanchao, 7, 55, 57, 62, 63, 65, Masculinity, 23, 27, 28, 31 153, 154 Mass-marketed, 184 Lucio Galletto, 36 Mass-produced, 184 INDEX 247

Matriarch, 97 Millet, 106 Maze, Lady Laura G, 11, 120, 196, Mintz, Sydney W., 11, 12, 93 199, 200 Missionary, 74, 115, 204 McDonaldization, 9, 138 Missy, 70 McDonalds, 9, 108, 138 Mitchell, Kenneth, 137, 138, 148 Meader, Chrys, 35, 182, 184 Mitsubishi Shoji Kabushiki, 102, 103 Meat and three veg, 22–24, 30, 35 Mitsui Bussan Kabushiki, 102 Mechanized farming, 171 Mixed marriages, 93, 95 Medhurst, W.H., 69, 117 Mock turtle, 146 Mediterranean cuisine, 203 Mod Oz, 37 , 89, 98 Model Dairy Farm, 76 Mele, Christopher, 175 Modern Australian, 6, 20, 37, 38, 40, Memoirs, 10, 14, 67, 97, 113, 152, 41, 43 180, 192, 194 Modernity, 32, 37, 175, 178 Memsahib, 11, 70, 179, 180, 195 Moh-loh-kai, 199 Menu(s), 2, 17, 23, 27–29, 33, 34, Molteni’s, 162 37, 40, 42, 48, 69, 70, 93, Mongrel language, 72, 168 105–107, 119, 121, 123, 125, Monosodium glutamate, 137, 190 126, 132, 139, 144, 146, 150, Moran & Cato, 184 190, 193, 195, 210 Moran, F.A., 126, 130 Merrony, Paul, 38 Morris, Colleen, 10, 168, 169, 171 Metallic Meals, 74 Morris, Jan, 85 Metcalf, Thomas, 2, 70, 114 Mougeot, Luc J.A., 173 Metherell, T., 167–171 Mulligatawny, 7, 8, 11, 21, 72, 100, Metropole, 2, 93, 124 113–115, 117, 119–122, 125, Metropole Cinema, 148 126, 130–132, 196, 198, 207 Middle East, 2, 8, 83, 86 Multi-culturalism, 48, 86, 87, 203 Mien t’iao erb, 200 Municipal Slaughterhouse, 77 Migrants, 2, 4–7, 12, 17, 18, 20, 21, Municipal Sterilising Station, 76 34, 35, 38, 39, 43, 45, 48, 58, Muskett, Philip E., 21, 22, 71, 130 62, 83, 84, 92, 119, 140, 151, & Co. Sole Agents, 207 155, 182, 190, 197 Muthu’s Curry, 92 Milano, 30 Mutton, 7, 8, 17, 21, 24, 27, 71, 72, Milk, 23, 26, 33, 35, 37, 63, 65, 77, 89, 99, 113, 115, 118, 120, 73–77, 88, 89, 94, 100, 102, 123, 132, 151, 179, 198, 199, 104, 106, 107, 123, 129, 131, 209, 210 133, 153, 156, 158, 167, 179, Myanmarese, 160 182–184, 207 Milk bars, 26, 30, 34, 35, 181, 182 Milk delivery, 184 N Milk pigeon Oriental, 146 Name-calling, 168, 171 Milkshakes, 26, 30, 35 Nam Tin, 148 248 INDEX

Nanjing pressed duck, 56 Nitza Villapol, 191 Nanjing Road, 66, 143, 144, 146, Nonya, 88, 95–97, 99 147, 171 Noodles, 44, 57, 59, 60, 64, 65, 67, Nanjing Road Food Market, 176 91, 98, 99, 140, 141, 143, 146, Nanking Restaurant, 151 150, 152, 153, 158, 160, 161, Narayan, Uma, 125 195, 200 Narrative, 1, 10, 21, 67, 173, 194 Northern cuisine, Chinese, 55 Nasi briyani, 92 Nouvelle cuisine, 41, 48, 142 , 86 Novelty, 118 , 88, 89, 156 Number one boy, 70 , 89 Nuts, 23, 31, 44, 57–59, 73, 96, 152, National cuisine, 7, 12, 58, 86, 153, 200 130, 145 National dish, 21, 22, 71, 130, 160 National Heritage Board, 12, 85, 86 O National identity, 9, 12, 138, 192, 201 Oasis Seros Restaurant, 42 Nationalism, 21, 120 O’Brien, Charmaine, 19 National Trades Union Congress Observatory Café, 39 (NTUC), 181 Oddities, 133 Native bread, 200 Olds, Margaret, 23, 25 Native fruits, 18 Olympia Milk Bar, 35 Native game, 18, 201 , 10, 17, 19, 60, 63, 65, 87, 89, Native-place cuisine, 60 92, 101, 104, 105, 113, 118, 123, Negotiation, 117, 175 128, 129, 131, 132, 141, 150, New Californian, 38 153, 165, 167, 168, 175, 189 New Catalan, 38 Oon, Violet, 88, 93 New Dixon Restaurant, 151 Opium, 141, 170, 171 New German, 38 Orchard, 6, 20, 167 Newington, P.C.B., 207, 208 Oriental, 134, 146 New South Wales, 6, 18, 43, 126, 127, Orion Café, 35 149, 166, 167, 169, 202, 204 Osmanthus flowers, 153 New South Wales Fruit Exchange, 172 Ousbäck, Anders, 38, 41 Newspapers, 10, 14, 21, 22, 27, 64, 68, Overconsumption, 71 83, 102, 116, 128, 139, 145, 161, Oyster bar, 33 180, 184, 190, 194, 203, 205 , 90, 150 Newton, John, 30, 35, 37, 47, 156, 173 New York of the West, 53 P New Zealand, 21, 69, 166, 191 Pacific Hotel, 170 Ng, Megan, 186 Padang, 161 Nicknames, 54, 168 Paddock-to-plate, 165 Night soil, 5, 77, 166, 169, 173 Paddy’s Markets, 165, 182, 183 INDEX 249

Palace Grill Room, 119, 143 Pignolet, Damien, 38 Palace Hotel, 119, 143, 145 Pigs, 10, 69, 77, 91, 92, 105, 152, Palace Tea Lounge, 119, 143 167, 172–174, 207 Pan, Lynn, 7, 58–60, 63, 68, 142, Pig trotters, 44 143, 152, 153 Pilchards, 105 Pan, Zi., 177, 178 Pilcher, Jeffrey M., 1, 3, 12, 38, Pancake(s), 63, 65, 145 147, 194 Pang, Leo, 46 Pineapple, 22, 29, 35, 72, 84, 87, 90, Paris of the East, 53 96, 104–107, 123, 133, 150, Park, Ruth, 37 155, 175 Parramatta, 10, 46, 126, 169 Pish pash, 8, 100, 115, 117 Parrot pies, 19, 21 Pittwater Online News, 33 Partridge and chicken feet, 146 Plagiarism, 202 Pastoralist, 126 Plaintains, 72 Pats, 168 Plenty and scarcity, 142 Pâté de foie gras, 122 Plombier, 142 Peace Hotel, 141 Pomelos, 72 Peacock’s Tasmanian Jams, 207 Pongteh, 95 butter, 66, 184 , 90, 97 Pearl, Denis, 105 Pork chop Napolitaine, 119, 146 Pearl of the Orient, 54 Pork chop with chips and Pearl River Delta, 44 mushroom, 121 Peasant, 57, 59, 118 Pork crackling, 106 Peddlers, 62, 152, 153 Port treaty, 3 Peet, George L., 123 Portuguese, 6, 20, 24, 93–95, 97, 199 Peking Café, 151 Portuguese Eurasians, 94 Peking food, 140, 145 Postcolonial, 14, 85, 114, 120, 124, People’s Park, 159 175, 192 People’s Restaurants, 107 Potassium permanganate, 75, 78 Pepper paste, 66 Poulaillers, 151 Peranakan, 4, 8, 93, 95–98, 103, Poulain, Jean-Pierre, 38 192, 193 Poulterers, 151 Peranakan Chinese, 95, 96 Prata, 88, 160 Perry, Neil, 38, 40–42 Prawn crackers, 101, 122, 123 Philippines, 98 Prema, Letchumanan, 192 Phillips, Carolyn, 141 Preserved duck eggs, 65 Phoenix claws, 144 Price, Jenna, 47 Pickle stores, 66 Prime rib of beef, 122 Picnic, 26, 27, 31, 36 Prince, 30 Pidgin, 72, 73, 168 Prisoner of war, 208 Pigeons’ eggs, 67, 117 Promotional cookbooks, 194, 209–210 Pig head, 44 Prostitutes, 58, 63, 116 250 INDEX

Public utilities, 57 Red-braised pork, 60 Pub meals, 28 Red-cooked dishes, 56, 60 Puftaloons, 133 Red Cross, 106, 202, 206 Pushcarts, 103, 138, 152 Red Guards, 63 Red Star restaurants, 148 Refrigeration, 26, 69, 174, 178, 184 Q Refrigerator, 25, 26, 78 Quong Tart, 32 Regional cooking, 55, 59, 91 Qwong Hop, 44 Reisner, M. J. H., 206 Rempah, 89, 94 , 85, 86, 88, 89, 123 R Rengayah-Knight, Veni, 95 Rabbit, 17, 19, 24, 25, 27 Report of the Committee Appointed to Rabbitohs, 17, 24, 25 Investigate the Hawker Question in Race, 2, 66, 92, 115, 131, 193 Singapore, 156, 157, 159 Racial abuse, 5 Republican years, 142 Racial discrimination, 5, 168, 170 Resistance, 174 Racist sentiment, 165 Restaurant, 1, 18, 55, 85, 113, 138, Radiation Cookery Book, 209, 210 171, 190 Raffles, Stamford, 84, 85, 122 The Restaurant, 38, 39, 43 Raffles class, 122 Restaurant Manfredi, 39, 42, 43 Raffles Girls School, 122 Restaurant review, 2, 47 Raffles Hotel, 101, 103, 122 Restaurants, 1, 4–7, 9–10, 13, 14, 18, Raffles Square, 157, 158 20–22, 24, 26, 27, 29, 30, 32, Raisins, 9, 24, 32, 71, 73, 104, 123, 33, 36–48, 55, 56, 58–61, 66–68, 126, 128, 130, 199 70, 72, 85, 88, 89, 91–93, Raj, 8, 13, 70, 115, 120 97–99, 101, 103, 107, 108, 115, Raja, I., 125 118, 119, 121–123, 128, 132, Rajah, Ananda, 8, 86, 93, 97–99, 137–162, 171, 190–193, 195 192, 193 Restaurant Troisgros, 41 Ramaswami, S., 185 Restaurateurs, 38, 40, 41, 47, 48, Rambutan, 72, 175 92, 139 Rapley, Stephen, 24 Restorative places, 139 Rappaport, Erika, 23, 31 Rice, 7, 8, 17, 44, 45, 56, 57, 59–61, Rations, 103, 104, 107, 208 63–67, 71–73, 85, 88, 89, 92, Rawan, 161 94–99, 101–107, 118, 119, 123, Rawson, Lance Mrs, 19 126–130, 132, 133, 140, 146, Ray, Krishnendu, 1, 12, 125, 139 150, 152–154, 156, 158–161, Recession, 70 171, 189, 194, 198–200, 208, 209 Recipes, 3, 11, 13, 17, 19, 21, 24, 26, Rice cultivation, 56 29, 70, 72, 93–95, 115, 120, Rice milling, 90 124–133, 138, 139, 148, 159, Rice pods, 106 161, 190–210 Rice , 104, 105, 153, 158 INDEX 251

Rice stores, 65, 66 Sakamoto, Nobuko, 57, 59 Rickshaw, 57, 58, 157, 158 Salary, 64, 70 Rickshaw puller, 57, 58, 102, 157–159 Salted fish, 44–46, 123 Ricsha meal tickets, 57 , 72, 88, 101, 122, 123, , 123 138, 161 Ripe, Cherry, 47 Sambal belacan, 94, 97, 99 Risson, Toni, 35 Sandwiches, 31–33, 39, 67, 101, Roast duck, 46, 91 122, 145 Roast emu, 201 Sanitation, 173, 175, 179 Roast kangaroo, 201 Sanmugam, Devagi, 92 Roast pork, 33, 45, 91, 94 Santich, Barbara, 19, 130, 132, 133 Roast turkey and ham, 146 Sarabat, 89, 156, 161 Roast wombat, 201 Sarabat stalls, 89, 156 Roberts, J.A.G., 56, 67, 69, 117, Sargent’s tearooms, 32, 33 141, 147 Sassen, Saskia, 4 Rockdale, 169 , 85, 86, 88, 89, 99, 158, 159 Rocklily Hotel/Tavern, 37 Sawmilling, 90 The Rocks, 38, 45, 149, 167, 182 Say Tin Fong, 46, 149 Roden, Claudia, 13 Schauer, Amy, 132 , 86–88, 91, 99 Scheen, Lena, 54 Rolls, Eric, 47 Schell, Orville, 64 Roman Empire, 139 Scholliers, P., 2 Romano’s, 30 School(s), 102, 122, 127, 146, 148, Rose and Crown Coffee Palace, 36 157, 202 Roseville, 169 Scones, 26, 32, 133, 145 , 122 Scotch Bakery, 145 Rôtisseurs, 151 Scurvy, 167 Rowe, Peter G., 54, 62 Sea dogs, 144 Roy, Modhumita, 131, 193 Seafood, 9, 18, 29, 33, 37, 56, 57, 91, Royal Hotel, 27, 47 126, 174, 179 Rubber, 84, 90, 91, 96, 155, 180 Second language, 73 Rudolph, J., 95 Semi-colonial Shanghai, 72, 197 Russian bakeries, 63, 146 Sensorial cultures, 139 Russian Revolution, 146 Servant girls, 58 Russians, 55, 58, 86, 142, 143, Servants, 5, 7, 9, 34, 57, 63, 66, 67, 146, 199 70, 72, 73, 75, 97, 100, Rutledge, Forster (Jean) Mrs, 132 114–116, 120, 121, 127, 128, 168, 175, 179, 195, 197, 209 Serviced apartments, 69 S Sesame paste, 66 , 7, 8, 100, 115, 124, Settlement, 2, 6, 13, 17, 20, 23, 45, 196, 198, 199, 207, 209, 210 54, 55, 84, 93, 94, 115, 117, St. Petersburg, 34, 141 124, 126, 130, 155 252 INDEX

Shahrim Ab. Karim, 95, 97 Shun Wah, Annette, 149, 150 , 88, 167 Siamese Chicken, 148 Shandong, 55 Sichuan, 46, 55, 58, 60, 144 Shang dynasty, 147 Sichuanese, 142 Shanghai, 1, 3–9, 24, 53–78, 91, 114, Simoons, Frederick J., 56, 57, 60 138, 166, 190 Sincere, 144, 171 Shanghai Café, 151 Singapore, 1, 3–5, 7–11, 13, 24, 53, Shanghaicai, 143, 144 58, 72, 74, 83–108, 115, 116, Shanghai Club, 68 120–125, 130, 131, 133, 134, Shanghai Electrical Machinery 137–140, 146–149, 152, Factory, 64 154–158, 160–162, 166, 167, Shanghai Gas Company Cookery Book, 172–177, 179–181, 192, The, 198, 209 194–196, 204, 207, 208, 210 Shanghailanders, 8, 13, 54, 66–74, Singapore Airlines, 122 115, 118, 120, 145, 199 Singaporean tourism, 138 Shanghai Milk Supply, 77 Singapore Free Press and Mercantile Shanghai Morning Post, The, 57 Advertiser, 100 Shanghai Municipal, 63 Singapore fruit curry, 133 Shanghai Municipal Annual Report, 64 Singapore Infopedia, 181 Shanghai Municipal Council Report, 76 Singapore Municipality Gas Shanghai Municipal Police, 74, 77, 116 Department, 210 Shanghainese, 4, 56, 57, 59, 60, 62, Singley, Blake, 19, 201 66, 116, 118–120, 141, 143, Sinkheh, 90 144, 153, 159, 175, 176, 178 Sin Leong, 147, 148 Shanghainese food, 57, 118, 142 Six o’clock swill, 28 Shanghai Paper Hunt Club, 69 Sky Terrace Hall, 119, 146 Shanghai peaches, 168 Slaughtering, 175 Shanghai Pudong Development Slippery bob, 201 Bank, 141 Smart, Josephine, 138 Shanghai Village Restaurant, 40 Smith’s Gourmet, 150 Shaoxing wine, 57, 59, 141 Smoked salmon, 149 Sharks’ fin, 45, 67, 117, 204 , 7, 47, 60, 62, 63, 65, 67, 90, Sharp, Ilsa, 101, 122 92, 97, 142, 151, 153, 154, 156, Shellane, 210 158, 162, 184 Shell fish, 75, 78 Snobbery, 59, 131 Shepherd’s Pension and Dining Snow-drop cones, 182 Rooms, 145 Social interactions, 175 Sherry, 69, 71, 72, 146 Sociology, 2 Shikumen, 7, 55, 62, 63, 65, 153 Soda , 94 Shoulders, 7, 24, 40, 63, 140, 152, Soh Teow Seng, 103 153, 158, 160, 167, 169, 170, Sole meunière, 122 176, 181 Mee, 90 , 66, 88, 94, 97–99, 204 Southern cuisine, Chinese, 55 INDEX 253

Soya bean milk, 63, 65, 153 , 99 Soya sauce, 59, 66, 90, 91, 94, 99, Supski, Sian, 197, 198 161, 190 Sutton, David, 9, 138 Soya sauce shop, 66 Suzhou, 57, 154 Spang, R., 139 Swampy land, 170 Spanish, 6, 24, 142, 146 Sweet and sour pork, 30, 99 (s), 8, 85, 88, 89, 94–97, 99, Sweet flour paste, 66 124, 125, 131, 148, 149, 174, Sweetmeat Castle, 145 201, 206 Sweetmeats, 23, 58 Sri Lanka, 94, 191 Sweet potato, 7, 63, 99, 102, 103, Srinivas, Tulasi, 125 105, 106, 133 Standard Dairy Farm Co., 77 Swislocki, Mark S., 7, 9, 55, 61, Staples, 4, 8, 44, 60, 65, 101, 103, 118–120, 138, 142, 144 107, 151, 158 Sydney, 1, 3–6, 9, 10, 13, 14, 17–48, Steak au poivre, 122 63, 71, 125–132, 138, 140, 144, Steamers, 19, 71, 201 149–151, 165–172, 182–184, Steamship, 84, 116, 155 189–191, 194, 195, 202–207, 210 Sterilization, 76 Sydney Coffee Palace, 36 Steys Dairy Farm, 77 Sydney Cove, 5, 18 Stone, Louis, 165 Sydney Harbour, 18, 19, 202 Stone, Richard, 28 Sydney Herald, The, 36, 47 Straits Times, 83, 91, 158, 175 Sydney Mail, 128 Straits Times Annual, 92 Sydney Morning Herald, 20, 31, 32, Street food, 1, 8–10, 12, 55, 58, 62, 35, 47, 183, 184, 190, 205 67, 85, 88, 89, 97, 98, 108, Sydney Morning Herald Good Food 137–162 Guide, 41, 47 Street stores, 30, 65–66 Sydney Queen Victoria Markets, 183 Street vendor(s), 60, 62, 63, 108, Sydneysiders, 18, 24, 30, 32, 34, 38, 151–153, 158, 176, 181 46, 166, 184 Substantials, 22, 26, 29, 71, 72, 106, Sydney slums, 165 156, 158, 208 Symons, Michael, 19, 20, 26, 27, , 69, 91 168, 171 Suez Canal, 84, 155 Szechuen Road, 145 , 59, 60, 63, 84, 88, 90, 100, 102, 103, 106, 131–133, 137, 141, 155, 176, 183, 198, 205 T Sumatran, 88, 94, 155, 161 Table boy, 70 Sun, Jiaming, 9, 178 Tables d’hôte, 139 Sun, The, 44 Tai Thong, 148 Sun Ah, 151 Takeaway meals, 30, 91 Sung Sung Dairy, 76 Tam, Andrew, 160 Sun Kwong Loong and Co., 44, 45 Tam, Siumi Maria, 47 Supermarkets, 1, 10, 14, 165–184 , 88, 94–96, 131 254 INDEX

Tamil Nadu, 91, 99, 131 Tiy Sang, 171, 172 Tamils, 91, 95, 99, 124, 131, 159 Tobacco, 105, 168 Tan, Chye Yee, 90, 93 Tompkins, Gladys, 106, 107 Tan, Terry, 90, 96, 147 Town Hall Coffee Palace, 36 , 97, 102, 103, 105, 198, 209 Travellers’ inns, 139 Tarulevicz, Nicole, 1, 7, 87, 139, 155, Travers, Robert, 32 159, 192 Tregonning, K.G, 5, 179 Taste, 9, 12, 13, 21, 27, 32, 36, 44, Trolley basket, 184 58, 61, 73, 88, 93, 105, 117, Tropical fruits, 29 118, 122, 134, 138, 139, 144, Tropical ulcers, 208 147, 149, 150, 161, 179, 194, Tuberculosis, 64, 75 199, 203 Turnbull, C.M., 90, 102, 155, Tauhu goreng, 86 157, 160 Tauhu telur, 86 Turnips, 10, 59, 64, 130, 132, 167, Tau yew bak, 90 168, 170 Tay Leck Teck, 181 Turtle soups, 29 Tay, Leslie, 86, 99 Typhoid, 74, 156 Tay Buan Guan store, 181 Te Hsing Kuan, 141 Tea, 7, 22, 30, 32, 34, 36, 44, 45, 47, U 55, 57, 63, 65, 68, 71, 89, 91, Udang goreng asam, 95 101, 106, 119, 122, 130, 141, Underground mutton, 17, 24 143, 145, 146, 148, 152, 154, Urbanization, 10, 166, 177, 182 158, 161, 200, 205–207 USA duck, 148 Tea dances, 145 Tearooms, 30–33 Teochew, 8, 90, 91, 99 V Textile mills, 5, 171 Van Cuylenburg, J. B., 157, 158, Tham Yew Kai, 147 162, 173 Thieme, J., 125 Vaughan, J. D., 173 Thomas, Francis, 107 Vázquez-Medina, José Antonio, 151 Thompson, David, 38 Vegetable curry, 22, 120, 123, 130, 198 Thosai, 160 Vegetable patch, 24, 167 Tientsin Café, 151 Vegetables, 5, 8, 10, 18, 20–24, 27, Tiffin, 67, 68, 71, 100, 116, 117, 122, 29, 33, 35, 44, 45, 48, 55, 59, 123, 128, 200 60, 63–65, 69, 71, 72, 74, 75, Tiffin Room, 122 77, 78, 87–89, 97, 99, 101–105, Tigers, 65, 144, 154 107, 113, 118, 120, 122, 123, Timbs, Gladys, 24, 25 125, 129–132, 140, 143, 146, Tin, 31, 40, 84, 96, 105, 155, 170 149, 150, 152–154, 158–161, Tinkler, Maurice, 116 165–178, 182, 184, 194, Tin mining, 96 198–200, 206, 207, 209 Titbits, 200 Verdi, 142 INDEX 255

Ve-Tsin, 190 Wibisono, Djoko, 90, 92, 99 Victoria Confectionery, 162 Widdowson, W. H. I., 74, 75, 77, 78 Victorian ideals, 96 Wild duck and fish maw soup, 146 Vietnamese, 6, 20 Wilkinson, John, 26, 106 Village kitchens, 139 Williams, Michael, 4, 169 Vineyard, 6, 20, 126 Wilson, Marie, 40, 42 Vivian Gordon Bowden, 120 Wilton, Janis, 45 Vodka, 142 Wing On, 5, 144, 171 Wing Sang, 171 Wockpool, 40, 41 W Woman’s Mirror cookery book, The, 191 Wakuda, Tetsuya, 39, 40, 42, 48 Women’s Missionary Association, 204 Walker, Robin, 183, 184 Women’s pages, 22, 27, 128, 203 Wallaby, 19, 21, 37, 183 Wong, Ella-Mei, 195 Walmart, 179 Wong, Hong Suen, 102, 107, 180 Walnut porridge, 152 Wong, Peter, 59 Wang Jia Sha Bar, 146 , 5, 65, 146, 153 Waratah Flour Mill, 182 Woo Hoh, 91 War Chest Cookery Book, The, 206 Wood, Frances, 67, 72, 73 War effort, 199, 205, 206 Woollen mills, 182 War fund, 198, 199 Woolworth, 184 War-related cookbooks, 194, 205–209 , 129 Warren, J. F., 158, 159 Working class, 28, 124, 126, 152, Wasteland, 170 183, 205 Wei, Wei, 65, 153 World War II, 20, 83, 101, 170, 202 Wengcheng chicken, 159 World wars, 24, 202, 205, 206 Wentworth Hotel, 29, 37 Wright, Arnold, 143 Wessell, Adele, 19, 201, 209 Wright, Tim, 157 Western cuisine, Chinese, 55, 118, 148 Western food, 7, 9, 101, 118, 119, 138, 143, 144, 161 X Western restaurants, 7, 101, 115, 118, Xialongbao, 146 119, 123, 142, 143, 151 Xiaoce, 154 West Lake fish, 59 Xiaoce shan, 154 Wet markets, 174–179 Xiao chang, 154 Whampoa Club, 5, 146 Xiao long bao, 60 Wheaton Ketcham, Barbara, 208 Xu Guozhen, 142 Whisky, 101, 180 White Australia Policy, 45, 46, 149, 167, 170, 191 Y White frontier masculinity, 23 Yam bean, 87 White Russians, 63, 141, 146 Yam ring, 148 Wholesale markets, 166 Yangzi River, 54, 56, 154 256 INDEX

Yella Mondays, 168 Yumcha, 47, 195 Yen, Ching-hwang, 5, 63 Yung Chiang Chuang Yuan Lou, 141 Yeoh, Brenda S.A., 173 Yunnanese cuisine, 142 Yep, Yung Hee, 189, 190, 193 Yu ping, 200 Yi Yin, 147 Yu sheng, 148, 149 Yi Chi Fu Hsing, 141 Yip, Dawn, 104 Yip, Jean, 104 Z Yit Yung, 43 Zakouska, 142, 199 Yizhuan, 118 Zhang, Qian Forrest, 60, 177, 178 , 98 Zhejiang, 55, 59, 61, 65, 66, 140, 141 You, Jia, 62, 65, 146 Zhou, Fang, 57, 149 You tiao, 154 Zlotnick, Susan, 125 Yu, Hai, 62 , 61 Yule, H., 131 Zuttion, Peter, 182