Carriacou Regatta 2010

C A R I B B E A N FREE C MPASS SEPTEMBER 2010 NO. 180 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

CARRIACOU REGATTA 2010 See stories on pages 14-17 MARK KILTY SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3 SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 Cover photo:MarkKilty,CarriacouRegattaFestival2010 http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?t=h&hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=112776612439699037380.000470658db371bf3282d&ll=14.54105,-65.830078& Pandora’s We Love… 22 A WelcomePassageBreak .... Isla Providencia 20 The ForgottenCaribbean ...... There’s More! 13 Funds forCharity,ThatIs .... Cruisers Net… The Caribbean’sMonthlyLookatSea&Shore IslandFavorites 24 .... SEPTEMBER 2010•NUMBER180 www.caribbeancompass.com

Click GoogleMaplinkbelowto ﬁ CORNWELL t ui’ imSa ...... 27 St. Lucia’sFilmStar ...... The An A UniqueCruise Eagle Unicorn EesVe ...... 26 -Eye’s View ...... nd the [email protected] Dominica MarineCenter,Tel:(767)448-2705, Dominica: Tel: (5999)4627733 [email protected] Curaçao: Tel/Fax: (246)423-4600 Barbados: [email protected] Tel (268)720-6868 Antigua: Compass AgentsbyIsland: [email protected] Accounting...... Debra Davis [email protected] Art, Design&Production...... WilfredDederer [email protected] Advertising &Distribution...... TomHopman [email protected] Assistant Editor...... ElaineOllivierre [email protected] Editor...... Sally Erdle www.caribbeancompass.com [email protected] Tel: (784)457-3409,Fax:457-3410 Bequia, St.VincentandtheGrenadines. Compass PublishingLtd.,P.O.Box175BQ, Caribbean Compass See Writers’Guidelinesatwww.caribbeancompass.com.Sendsubmissionstosally@caribbeancompass.com. Caribbean Compass ol’ epSces...... 32 Dolly’s DeepSecrets ...... Fun Pages...... 30,31 29 Book Review ...... 28 Sailors’ Hikes ...... Meridian Passage 28 ...... 18 Regatta News...... 10 Caribbean Eco-News...... 8 Business Briefs ...... 5 Info &Updates ...... Caribbean Compass can use.We’re theCaribbean’smonthlylookatseaandshore. Panama toBarbuda,we’vegotthenewsandviewsthatsailors AdSales&Distribution-LucyTulloch Distribution-BudgetMarineCuraçao Compass Distribution - Doyle Sails Distribution-DoyleSails Distribution - Hubert J. Winston Distribution -HubertJ.Winston welcomes submissionsofshortarticles,newsitems,photosanddrawings. is published monthly by ispublishedmonthlyby events andpeople.” edition isavailablesowecancatchupontherealskinny Caribbean. Weboaterscanhardlywaittillthenextmonthly Compass boating friendsknowhowmuchweenjoyreadingthe except shortexcerptsforreviewpurposes,maybemadewithoutwrittenpermissionofCompassPublishingLtd. ©2010 CompassPublishingLtd.Allrightsreserved.Noreproduction,copyortransmissionofthispublication, responsibility foranystatementsmadetherein.Lettersandsubmissionsmaybeeditedlengthclarity. responsibility oftheadvertiser,writerorcorrespondent,andCompassPublishingLtd.acceptsno We supportfreespeech! coverstheCaribbean!FromCubatoTrinidad, from “It ismypleasureandperhapsobligationtoletallour Yacht Alleluia — TitoFigueroa andhowitenrichesourexperiencecruisingthe DEPARTMENTS nearyou! ISSN 1605-1998 But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole Butthecontentofadvertisements,columns,articlesandletterstoeditoraresole Advertisers’ Index 46 ...... 46 Classified Ads ...... Caribbean MarketPlace 43 ..... 42 Monthly Calendar ...... What’s onMyMind...... 40,41 Readers’ Forum 36 ...... 35 Cooking withCruisers ...... Compass Fiction 33 ...... The CaribbeanSky 32 ...... [email protected] Tel: (58-281)265-3844Tel/Fax:265-2448 Venezuela: [email protected] Tel: (868)621-0575,Cell:620-0978 Trinidad: Tel: (284)494-2830,Fax:494-1584 Tortola/BVI: Tel: (784)457-3527,[email protected] St. Vincent&theGrenadines: Tel: (340)7747931,[email protected] St. Thomas/USVI: Tel: (599)5533850,[email protected] Distribution -EricBendahan [email protected] Mob: +590690760100 spn=10.196461,14.0625&z=6&source=embed Ad Sales & Distribution - Jack Dausend Ad Sales&Distribution-JackDausend Ad Sales & Distribution - Patty Tomasik AdSales&Distribution-PattyTomasik Ad Sales-StéphaneLegendre St. Maarten/St.Barths/Guadeloupe: [email protected] Tel: (758)484-0555, Distribution -LisaKessell [email protected] Tel: (758)4520147Cell:7208432. St. Lucia: [email protected] Tel: (0596)596686971,Mob:+(0)696932638 Martinique: [email protected] Cell: (473)457-2151Office:444-3222 Ad Sales&Distribution-KarenMaaroufi Grenada/Carriacou/Petite Martinique: Distribution-GladysJones Distribution - Bryan Lezama Distribution-BryanLezama Ad Sales-MauriceMoffat Ad Sales & Distribution - Isabelle Prado AdSales&Distribution-IsabellePrado Ad Sales - Debra Davis Ad Sales-DebraDavis SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5 , to the southeast of Caja de , to the southeast of Caja de PR1 newspaper of Barbados, “Almost every- Barbados correspondent since shortly The Nation , was deployed on July 23rd, following the successful , was deployed on July 23rd, PR2 Caribbean Compass’s , Norman wrote thoughtfully and prolifically on subjects ranging , Norman wrote thoughtfully and prolifically on subjects Compass For more information on Island Water World see ad on page 48. on Island Water World For more information Water Data Buoy Provides Weather and Puerto Rico: New Rico now response crews in Puerto rescue workers, and Beachgoers, mariners, this buoy will include wind measurements, air tempera- Real-time data provided by The new buoy, called useful water and weather information saves lives, prop- “Easier access to timely and by NOAA IOOS, constructed by the University of These data buoys are financed private-sector partnership working to enhance our IOOS is a federal, regional and For more information visit www.noaa.gov. Eight Bells: Norman Faria in Barbados Norman Faria passed away unexpectedly on May 25th Norman has been In the degrees north to 22 degrees north, and 55 degrees west to 65 degrees west; and degrees west to 65 degrees to 22 degrees north, and 55 degrees north reports, the tidal Following the weather forecast for the same area. then the five-day given. Prickly Bay for the day are predictions for it is safe to decisions such as whether available when making have new information within the in distress. NOAA partners or where to find mariners head out to sea a data System recently deployed Coastal Ocean Observing Caribbean Integrated on Escambrón Beach, near San Juan, to provide data buoy in 110 feet of water off in areas including the port of San Juan and the island’s winds, waves and currents Atlantic coast. wave information, near-surface water temperature and ture, atmospheric pressure, currents throughout the water column. salinity observations, and ocean of another buoy, deployment and operation Ponce and the island’s Caribbean coast. It is now oper- Muertos, serving the port of can be viewed in near-real time online at http:// ational and the data it collects gyre.umeoce.maine.edu/caricoos. Willis, director of NOAA’s Integrated Ocean erty, and resources,” said Zdenka the information that the sailor, state and local agen- Observing System (IOOS). “It’s order to make safe and informed decisions before cies, or beachgoer needs in to the beach.” heading out on the water or jointly by the University of Maine and researchers Maine buoy group, and operated Rico Mayagüez campus. from the University of Puerto delivers the data and ability to collect, deliver and use ocean information. IOOS oceans and coasts, so deci- information needed to increase understanding of our and protect sion makers can act to improve safety, enhance the economy the environment. after a brief illness. after this magazine began publication in 1995. Barbadian born, Norman was a after this magazine began publication in 1995. Barbadian Canada. A former mer- graduate in Political Science from York University in Toronto, member of the Barbados chant seaman, he was a keen recreational sailor and Honorary Consul to Cruising Club. He also served for the past 16 years as Guyana’s Barbados. As Eric Smith wrote in sailing and fishing, journalism, thing he undertook he did passionately, whether it was or speaking out in defence of the voiceless.” from sailing, shipping and boatbuilding to coastal development issues, watersports from sailing, shipping and boatbuilding to coastal development safety and Caribbean maritime history. —Continued on next page

Two weather reports are currently offered on this Grenada Cruiser‘s Net. The first, a Two weather reports are currently offered on this Grenada Get Weather on Grenada’s Cruiser Net Get Weather on Grenada’s Island Water World Grenada, a leading yacht chan- Since Hurricane Ivan in 2004, Jonathan Fisher broadcasting to cruisers in Grenada

& Updates & Info local weather report intended for people staying on the island, contains information local weather report intended for people staying on the Airport. For the sec- taken from the weather station at Maurice Bishop International Hurricane Centre in ond report, all the information is taken from the US National for the area from seven Miami, giving information on Tropical Waves; a synopsis dlery in the Windward Islands, has become a trusted source of weather reports dlery in the Windward Islands, 68 at 0730 hours, Monday through Friday. broadcast on VHF radio channel SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 potential visitorsareincreasinglyselectiveabouttheirchoicesofdestinations. challenge tomakeGrenadamorewelcomingandamenableatatimewhen framework ofimprovingthevisitorexperiencesinGrenada. impact. Theywerealsogivenclearerperspectivesabouttheirroleswithinthebigger ates withintheeconomyandmultiplyingeffectsthatareassociatedwithits Grenada’, whereparticipantswereapprisedofthelinkagesthattourismperpetu- ences toallbeachusers. ings oftheindustryandimportantrolethattheyplayinprovidingpositiveexperi- Flamboyant Hotelwastailoredtoincreasetheirlevelofunderstandingthework- gramme bytheGrenadaBoardofTourismatConferenceRoom key aspectsofGrenada’stourismindustry.Arecentlyconvenedtrainingpro- ing oftheGrandAnseandMorneRougebeachesarenowmoreinformedabout magazine. Readthestoryat — • St.LuciaanditsmarinaswerefeaturedintheMay/Juneissueof Cruisers’ Site-ings The currenttrainingemphasisoftheGrenadaBoardTourismispartoverall Another trainingprogrammewillbeheldduringthefirsttwoweeksofSeptember. Among thepresentationswas‘UnderstandingTourismanditsImportanceto Members oftheGrandAnseBeachTaskForceandthosechargedwithclean- Beach Cleaners’SeminarHeldinGrenada Continued frompreviouspage www.marinaworld.com . ‘Our ManinBarbados’ The lateNormanFaria, sincerely missed. many friends.Hewillbe Bibiana, fourchildrenand to hisfans. ing theseremainingworks we lookforwardtobring- for futurepublication,and Norman’s articlesonfile Compass ture inthesepages. popular long-runningfea- his homewaters,wasa of unusualyachtsvisiting he interviewedthecrews Different Folks”,inwhich “Different Boatsfor ring themes.Hisseriesof tical heritagewererecur- ciation ofCaribbeannau- He issurvivedbyhiswife, Social justiceandappre-

Marina World hasanumberof ELLA RYCHLEWSKI ELLA too: that youhavewouldbemostappreciated!”PAYSnowhasitsowne-mailaddress, work ofthegroup.Thepageisainprogressandanysuggestionsorphotos who loveDominica,andtopromotethebeautyofislandvolunteer Helen ofCabritsDivesays,“Wewanttouseitbothbuildacommunitypeople sailing-helena.blogspot.com —Continuedonnextpage later thesameday. Through theassistanceofFBI,hewasarrestedatanairportinHouston,Texas in theCapeVerdeIslands. catamaran fromGuadeloupeandfailedtoreturnit.Thatyachtwaslaterrecovered been foundthreeyearsearlierintheCanaryIslands,havingrentedaLagoon410 taken intopolicecustody.Itisreportedthatoneofthem,MilosGaspar,43,had ed andbearinganewname. found some1,600nauticalmilesawayatCucumberBeachMarinainBelize,repaint- Martinique inFebruaryoflastyearandnotreturnedasagreed.Theyachtwas Bénéteau Cyclades43.3 • Dominica’sPortsmouthAssociationofYachtSecuritynowhasafacebookpage. • ActivecruisersGlendaandEddyhaveupdatedtheirblog.Checkitoutat Gaspar wasexpelledfromBelizeonApril17th,2009,andflewtotheUnitedStates. The menaboard,mostofwhomcarriedpassportsfromtheCzechRepublic,were In theMay2009issueof Update: SerialYachtThiefSentenced [email protected] Ishtar Caribbean Compass . , whichwascharteredfromVPMchartersinLeMarin, . , wereportedonthetheftof www. SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7

CHRIS DOYLE we welcome new advertisers The Lure restaurant of Compass Paper Boat Wanted! Roatan, Honduras, says, Jerry Blakeslee, Dockmaster at Fantasy Island Marina in cell (504) 8798 5495. Jerry can be reached at [email protected] or Welcome Aboard! In this issue of The solution? If the restriction is specifically against “alighting from a boat”, perhaps against “alighting from a If the restriction is specifically The solution? Heavily used Buccoo Reef lies just off Pigeon Point on Tobago’s southwest coast Heavily used Buccoo Reef lies just off Pigeon Point on Tobago’s can anchor at Anse Bateau, and nearby“the snorkeling on the leeward side of can anchor at Anse Bateau, and nearby“the snorkeling is really nice, and they are Goat Island and Little Tobago (‘Bird of Paradise’) Island well protected”. the transportation of approxi- “We need help! Privilege Hotels is offering US$1,000 for Roatan to Isla Mujeres some- mately 1,000 pounds of paperwork from Fantasy Island, someone that might be, time around mid-November. If you are interested or know please contact me ASAP.” 11. Trinidad, page 9; and Village Cay Marina of Tortola, page Good to have you with us! although we hear that some visiting cruisers who have requested it have been denied. who have requested it have that some visiting cruisers although we hear shore. But Bay, Buccoo Bay or the swim out to the reef from Store you could just over-use (or is in very poor condition from say that Buccoo Reef those in the know the island. You on the northeast end of is much better snorkeling abuse), and there rent him a boat! don’t Continued from previous page Continued from The US Immigration and Customs Enforcement Agency has begun a process thatThe US Immigration and Customs Enforcement Agency In January, he was found guilty by a Platte County, Missouri jury for renting and County, Missouri jury for was found guilty by a Platte In January, he Tobago: Buccoo Reef Rules Explained Doyle: “When anchored Cruisers visiting Tobago asked cruising guide author Chris Department of Marine Chris contacted Kenneth Caesar, Director of Tobago’s This is in accordance “The Buccoo Reef was declared a restricted area in 1973. Year of Coral Reefs, the “In 2008, the year declared by the UN the International obtained such permission,Presumably the local glass-bottom boat operators have admitted, however, to helping illegal aliens enter the United States. Platte County illegal aliens enter the United States. Platte County admitted, however, to helping said, “This defendant is an international con man Prosecuting Attorney Eric Zahnd who evaded justice for seven years.” following his prison term. Ifcould result in Gaspar’s deportation from the United States you see this man, then failing to return a recreational vehicle in 2002, and in March he was sentenced in 2002, and in March he return a recreational vehicle then failing to part in his own defense in large in prison. He declined to testify to three years He reportedly for the two stolen yachts. have had to account because he would — in Store Bay, we used to be able to dinghy out to Buccoo Reef and snorkel there. in Store Bay, we used to be able to dinghy out to Buccoo apparently not to tourists But now we are told the reef is off limits to us, although snorkeling off the glass-bottom boats. What’s the story?” Resources and Fisheries, who explains: and Enhancement with Act 1 of 1970 referred to as the Marine Areas Preservation Act of the Laws of Trinidad and Tobago. of the Act that deals with Tobago House of Assembly decided to enforce the part the further deterioration of persons alighting on the reef. This was an attempt to stall one shall alight from a boat the reef due to reef walking. The Act stipulated that no unless permission is granted by the Minister or his delegate.” SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 ied itinerariesforbareboatchartersandall-inclu- with offices,briefingroomsandothersupportfacilities. charter yachtswillbebasedatthemarina,together Grenada asitsnewestCaribbeanbase.Morethan30 & Nicholson’sPortLouisMarinainStGeorge’s, on page48. many yearshisownchandleryinCuraçao. experienced andveryknowledgeable,havingrunfor Manager isJimmyDunker,whowellrespected, point intermsofchoiceandavailability.OurStore 7,000 squarefeetoftotalspaceweplannottodisap- Fish Tales,ourcomprehensivefishingstore.Withnearly Buddy, asnorkeling,divingandwatersportsstore; incorporates our“storewithinastore”concept:Dive depth and,webelieve,fairlypriced.Thestorealso range ofproductsfromAnchoringtoSafety—in assortment” store,whichmeansitcarriesabroad pleased withthereceptionsofar.Thisisalarge,“full new storeinCuraçaoonJuly9th,andwearevery BRIEFS BUSINESS

Rodney Bay,St.Lucia Beginning inOctober,TheMooringswilloffervar- The MooringschartercompanyhaschosenCamper The MooringsComestoPortLouis,Grenada For moreinformationonIslandWaterWorldseead Sean Kennellyreports:IslandWaterWorldopeneda IWW PleasedwithReceptioninCuraçao

Tel: (758)4520299

Lubricants &Oils Bilge Pumps Marine Hoses Electric Wire Anchors &Fenders Chain &Rope Johnson Hardware Ltd. and privateownership. yachts, regionallyandinternationally,bothforcharter with VallartaYachtsinMexico. arrived inSt.Vincentafterahighlysuccessfultenure yacht brokerDanielVoorhees,whohasrecently pany andmarinecentregroup. a brokeragedivisionofthewell-knownchartercom- has announcedtheopeningofBarefootYachtSales, [email protected] or(284)494-2569. you don’thaveto? stand loadsinexcessof3,000pounds. stainless steelringsandwebbingdesignedtowith- ventilation. Allattachmentpointsarereinforcedwith the housecontinuestobecomfortablewithlightand through; oncetheStormShieldshavebeendeployed, woven meshthatallowssomelightandairtopass door formaximumprotection.Thefabricisatightly be aspacebetweenthescreenandwindowor Storm Shield’seffectivenessandiswhythereneedsto ing. Theabilitytostretchuponimpactisthekey trampoline, abletoabsorbtremendousimpactload- your propertywhileprovidingsomelightandairflow. deployed withaminimumofeffortandwillprotect Test, theDoyleCaribbeanStormShieldsareeasily County (Florida)LargeProjectiveTestandAirPressure tection. UsingfabricsthatpasstheDadeandBroward applied thattechnologytohomeandbusinesspro- rience buildingstormprotectionforworldcruisers,has page 12. destination nowthattherightfacilitiesareinplace.” potential forGrenadaasaninternationalyachting businesses operatingoutofthemarina.Thisshows have sailmakers,provisioners,touroperatorsandother first openedsome18monthsago,andwealready momentum hasbeenbuildinginPortLouissincewe James Beaver,C&N’soperationsdirector.“The Moorings astheirsouthernCaribbeanbase,”says Caine andBénéteau. catamarans andmonohullsfromRobertson& sive crewedvacationsonafleetofcustom-built The brokeragewillsellbothnewyachtsandused Leading thenewventurewillbeprofessionalUS Barefoot YachtChartersofBlueLagoon,St.Vincent New BrokerageDivision Barefoot YachtChartersOpens For moreinformationonDoyleSailsseeadpage3. For moreinformation,contactBobPhillips,Tortola,at Why livebehindplywoodoraluminumshutterswhen The fabricissimilartothatusedonagymnastics Doyle SailmakersBVI,withmorethan30years’expe- The NextWaveinHurricaneProtection For moreinformationonPortLouisMarinaseead Sunsail willbecomingtothemarinaaswell. “We’re delightedtohavebeenselectedbyThe FOR YOUR MARINEHARDWARE, ANDMORE Fax:(758)4520311 Fishing Gear Snorkeling Equipment Flares &LifeJackets VHF Radios Stainless Fittings Stainless Fasteners e-mail:[email protected] page 24. www.ultrasonic-antifouling.com. of Spain,Trinidad. David’s, Grenada,andStandardMotorSupplies,Port Approved InstallationCentresatGrenadaMarine,St the Caribbean,leadingtoadditionofnew marine antifoulingiswellproveninthewarmwatersof antifouling review. “Product oftheMonth”withafive-starratinginits Yachting through-hull drilling.Earlierthisyear, Transducers arebondedtotheinsideofhullswithno cles. UltrasonicAntifoulingissimpletoinstall. an invisibleshieldofprotectionfromalgaeandbarna- molecules surroundingtheboathull,cocooningitin ultrasonic wavestocreatemovementinthewater of approvedinstallerstomeetdemand. ic antifoulingbrand–isexpandingitsglobalnetwork www.northern-lights.com. sales andservicenetworktomorethan40countries. company’s productsaredistributedthroughaglobal sion enginesandTechnicoldmarinesystems.The facturer ofmarinedieselgenerators,Luggerpropul- Vincent, GrenadaandTrinidadwereinattendance. St. Maarten,Antigua,Dominica,Martinique,Lucia, (www.CaribbeanNorthernLights.com). Lights Caribbeanwebsite industry, electronicservicetoolingandtheNorthern and EUemissionsregulationstheirimpactonthe ucts beinglaunched,TechnicoldAirConditioning,EPA tor intheCaribbean.” clear whyNorthernLightsisthemostpopulargenera- comes downhereandputsonashowlikethis.Itis Drew Bremner,“andtheonlyoneweknowofwho the Caribbean,”saysParts&Powersalesmanager solicit feedbackfromdealersandtheircustomersin passed ondirectlytoNorthernLightsleadership. criticism andfeedbackwerediscussed,reviewed and development.Inaddition,customercomments, for dealerstohavedirectinputonproductdesign feedback. Thiswasalsoanunparalleledopportunity Trainer MaryFinleyJones,whichreceivedverypositive Customer ServiceSeminarwashostedby lead tomorecustomersatisfaction.Atwo-hour vice techniques,industrytrendsandotherissuesthat dealer networkdesignedtodiscussnewproducts,ser- ference isagatheringofNorthernLights’Caribbean Town, TortolaonJuly28thand29th.Thisbiennialcon- held theirCaribbeanDealerConferenceinRoad power generationandmarinepropulsionsystems, see adonpage15. [email protected] or(784)456-9334/9144. On June25ththeInternationalSchoolSt.Lucia’s… its FirstGraduationCeremony International SchoolSt.LuciaCelebrates For moreinformationonGrenadaMarineseead For moreinformationonUltrasonicAntifoulingvisit The effectivenessofthecompany’snon-toxic The technologyuseslowenergy,highfrequency Ultrasonic Antifouling–theworld’sleadingelectron- Ultrasonic AntifoulingAvailableatGrenadaMarine For moreinformationonNorthernLightsvisit Founded in1958,NorthernLightsisaleadingmanu- Dealers representingSt.Thomas,Croix,John,BVI, Other topicsintheConferenceincludednewprod- “This isoneofveryfewmanufacturerswhoactively Northern Lights,Inc.,leadingmanufacturerofdiesel Dealer Conference Northern LightsHolds2010Caribbean For moreinformationonBarefootYachtCharters The salesofficecanbecontacteddirectlyatdan- magazine namedUltrasonicAntifouling —Continued onnextpage Houseware &Cookware Hand &PowerTools Sanding Paper&Discs Epoxy Resins Paint Brushes Antifouling Paint Motor Boat& SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 Kelly was former- . Nanny Cay Pledges More Support to Nanny Cay Pledges BVI Spring Regatta BVI years of hosting the After eight consecutive to renew its arrange- “Nanny Cay is very pleased capacity to accommo- Nanny Cay Marina has the on the beach at The Regatta Village, located 2011 marks the 40th anniversary of the BVI Spring For more information on Nanny Cay visit For more information on the BVI Spring Regatta visit Air Service for Anguilla Cape Air adds a new island destination in the This new Caribbean route complements Cape Air’s Flagship Charter Yacht Services Announces New In-House Charter Broker The Virgin Islands Charter Yacht League, located on Open daily except Sundays and Mondays. Sundays and Mondays. Open daily except phone Chef Patrick For more information, Flagship has been the premier charter clearing Flagship has been the premier charter clearing Kelly can be contacted at [email protected] or Spring Regatta (BVISR), Nanny Cay Resort and Marina (BVISR), Nanny Cay Resort Spring Regatta the territo- has committed to supporting (Nanny Cay) years. The for an additional five ry’s largest regatta Nanny Cay as the pre- renewed contract confirms provider senting sponsor and host venue through 2016. manager, Miles ment with the BVISR,” said general years, we have substan- Sutherland-Pilch. “Over the and honed our prep- tially improved the infrastructure planning dockage and arations for the regatta from and plumbing services, the supply of reliable electrical set up the village. We work to providing manpower to and other external with the organizing committee security, health and safety organizations to ensure the all visitors. — and, of course, fun — of yachts, which date the majority of the participating The boatyard, on-site has numbered more than 160. and shops also pro- chandlery, marine contractors stock, repair and vide the boaters with extensive maintenance services. Nanny Cay, receives more than 1,500 visitors during the four-day regatta period. The Village includes sponsor and vendor booths as well as bars and restaurant concession stands. Regatta, which started as a sailing event for a handful of 19-foot Squibs and 14-foot Sunfish. The three-day Sailing Festival was introduced as a prelude to the regatta in 2003. The organizing committee in partnership with the BVI Chamber of Commerce and Hotel Association will be rolling out special events throughout the week of sailing to mark the occasion. www.nannycay.com. www.bvispringregatta.org. Caribbean with two daily flights between Anguilla and San Juan, Puerto Rico beginning on December 22nd. existing Caribbean service for San Juan, St. Thomas, St. Croix, Tortola, Vieques, Mayaguez and Ponce. Tickets can be purchased on Expedia or Travelocity or at 866-Cape-Air. St. Thomas, USVI, has announced the addition of Kelly Kiernan to its Flagship clearing house staff as in-house charter broker. Fleet marketing and recruitment will be at the forefront of her responsibilities at (473) 533-1262. ly the Operations Manager of On-Deck Ocean Racing ly the Operations Manager of On-Deck Ocean Racing on St. Thomas. house in the Caribbean since its inception some 39 years ago. Flagship represents not only the Flagship charter yacht fleet, but also looks forward to the addition of its new Day Charter tour desk to be located at their offices at Yacht Haven Grande marina. (340) 776-5630. , which means table d’hôte main job in Barbados will be laying an oil main job in Barbados will be Martin Smyth of Crawford & Massiah Associates says, of Crawford & Massiah Associates Martin Smyth down to the beach in “They used to bring the boom can be found Further information and photographs Responder in BarbadosFor more information on the Changes at Fantasy Island, Roatan As of October 31st, Privilege Hotels, the manage- In a meeting with the owner, marina manager Over the last year, Fantasy Island Marina has For more information contact Jerry at New — Tapas in Grenada LeBistro, overlooking Grenada‘s Grand Anse Beach, LeBistro is a small restaurant with a top quality gour- wheelhouse, small WC, a five-tonne hydraulic deck deck small WC, a five-tonne hydraulic wheelhouse, range of oil wash facilities and a crane, freshwater diesel- This equipment includes spill equipment. extendable spray pumps and powered dispersant well as a hydraulically powered spray arms as boom 1,200 feet of oil containment boom reel with over a stern and recovered that can be deployed roller system. and consul- firm of marine surveyors “We are a small the Caribbean agents for tants in Barbados, and are vessel might set a trend Alnmaritec. I think that this or discharge crude oil, wherever tankers have to load in the offing. and there are pristine beaches Responder’s are loading crude oil boom around the tankers that This is just a precaution- here for shipment to Trinidad. are any spills while they are ary measure, in case there pipeline while moored loading the oil from the sub-sea off Oistins. and then tow it out with a trailer behind a Land Rover, much easier now with this a fishing boat, but it will be can just be hydraulically new boat, where the boom wound up on its reel.” at www.alnmaritec.co.uk/boats/all_boats90.html. & Massiahcontact Martin Smyth of Crawford or (246) 230-1532. Associates at [email protected] ment group currently operating Fantasy Island Resort, Marina and Dive Center on the island of Roatan, Honduras, will terminate their contract with the owners of the property. As of this writing a new management group has not yet been selected but the resort will continue to function under the control of the property owner. and dock master Jerry Blakeslee was assured that all operations of the resort would continue and that significant improvements would be made to the infrastructure, including the marina. Specifically, the marina docks would be repaired or replaced as necessary, new electrical and cable TV boxes installed, additional dockside lighting installed, grounds maintenance improved and areas in front of the docks dredged. become a cruisers’ favorite in Roatan, thanks in part to its location near the best shopping, provisioning and marine services of the island. Guests of the marina also have full use of the resort facility, plus meals and scuba diving at a discounted price. All of these services are available to cruisers anchored out for a small fee. Jerry Blakeslee is the Cruising Station Host for the Seven Seas Cruising Association. [email protected]. opens up this season by serving tapas — a wide variety of cold and warm appetizers in the Spanish cui- sine. Says Patrick Tobelem, chef at LeBistro: “It is a welcome addition to the full-course Mediterranean style meals we normally serve at LeBistro.” met kitchen. Its formula is that it normally serves the meal the chef has chosen to prepare for the week. But if you contact Chef Patrick 24 hours in advance, he will customize the meal to fully match your taste.

KONRAD WAGNER , is based upon the , is based upon the Responder 1 is equipped with an air conditioned is equipped with an air conditioned Continued from previous page Continued from The new vessel, New Oil-Spill Response Boat for Barbados Alnmaritec Limited, one of the UK’s leading special- For more information on The International School visit The International School St. Lucia proudly congratu- With the help of ISSL’s Student Guidance service, Joint Valedictorians Filamena Day and Isaac Principal June Harkness (at left) congratulates Co-Valedictorian Filamena Day ist aluminium boat builders, is gaining recognition for oil spill response/pollution control vessels. The most recent delivery was a boom deployment and spill response boat, which was delivered to the Barbados National Terminal Company Ltd. for operation on their oil export facility at Oistins Bay. successful Wave Worker class from Alnmaritec. She is a 12 metre long and 5.3 metre wide displacement catamaran powered by twin 150 bhp Cummins diesel engines driving conventional fixed pitch propellers that give her a top speed of 12 knots. Responder 1 www.intschoolstlucia.org. lates the Class of 2010 on achieving their goals, and wishes them great success as they take their next step into the future. graduates have made successful applications to uni- versities in the USA, Canada, the UK, Cuba and Mexico, and between them have earned more than EC$450,000 in scholarships. Degree subjects range from Medicine and Engineering to Journalism, International Business and Interior Design. Golding delivered an inspirational speech to their peers about the importance of making good choices, and their class’s educational journey through the tough demands of the New Brunswick Secondary School Diploma. — becoming Class of 2010 made history, …Graduating achieve the of a St. Lucian school to the first students Diploma. Brunswick Secondary School Canadian New SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 area ofocean.AccordingtoastudycalledReefsatRiskpublishedin2004,more safeguarding coralreefs. development incoralreefareas,marineprotectedareasareanimportanttoolfor are judgedtobeeffectivelymanaged.Withthegrowthoftourism,fisheries,andother shelf isundersomeformofprotection.However,lessthan20percenttheseareas Panos Caribbean,reports:AboutfourpercentoftheEasternCaribbean’smarine merchandise salesanddonations. out theirrange.FundingforSTCBcomesfromconservationandresearchgrants, is toensuretheprotectionandrecoveryofBonaire’sseaturtlepopulationsthrough- servation organizationthathasbeenprotectingseaturtlessince1991.Ourmission drier partofthebeach. tices, STCBstaffrelocatedmorethanahundredleatherbackeggstohigherand eggs. KleinBonaireisnotanoptimalnestsiteforleatherbacks.”Usingbestprac- ager MabelNava.“Theylookforthenearestbeachandtrytheirbesttodeposit homes andsometimestheyhavetheurgetolayonelastnest,”statesSTCBman- beach becauseitwaslaidtooclosetothewaterlineandeggswereflooded. found afreshnestonKleinBonaire.Thewasrelocatedtosafeareaofthe erback turtlewasrecordedlayingeggsonBonaire.OnJune7th,aSTCBfieldcrew ous marineorganismsandsafetymeasures. tats, marinespecies,marine-relatedlaws,conservationpractices,potentiallydanger- Dix Bay,Sotheby´sandRoadTownWholesale. The Moorings,Sunsail,BVITouristBoard,HorizonYachtCharters,RosewoodLittle Nanny CayMarina,MosakaVentures,CCT,SailCaribbean,ActionQuest,SeaTrek, phers, whilefundedbytheForeignandCommonwealthOffice,VictorInternational, Conservation andFisheriesDepartment,ALookingGlassLtd.localphotogra- awareness onhowimportantprotectingtheseresourcesis. food, recreationandeconomicbenefitsthroughtourism,theguidewillraise marine environmentthatbenefitBVIresidentsandvisitors.Someareasinclude that underpintheconservationefforts.” environment anditsspecies,aswellprovideinformationonthelawspolicies continue toprovideinformationontheconservationandpreservationofmarine environment.” marine environment,andinturnwillallowpersonstobecomebetterstewardsofthe Janice Rymer,said,“Themagazineisaimedateducatingthepublicabout Guide Fisheries Departmentrecentlylaunchedthesecondeditionoftheir A marineprotectedarea(MPA)isawhoseboundariesincludesome Indi Mclymont-Lafayette,regionaldirectorcommunity,mediaandenvironmentat Dominica MPAHighlightsRegionalPolicyDiscussion For [email protected]. Sea TurtleConservationBonaire(STCB)isanon-governmentalresearchandcon- “These animalsarereturningnowfromtheirnestinggroundstofeeding Sea TurtleConservationBonairereports: Leatherback NestRelocatedonKleinBonaire To obtainafreecopyvisitwww.bvimarineawareness.com. The The Mr. LettsomealsonotedthattheMarineAwarenessGuidehighlightsareasof Chief ConservationandFisheriesOfficer,BertrandLettsome,said,“Theguidewill The BVIMinistryofNaturalResourcesandLabourtheConservation Free . ActingPermanentSecretaryintheMinistryofNaturalResourcesandLabour, Marine AwarenessGuide Marine AwarenessGuide Caribbean Eco-News BVI MarineAwarenessGuide isanannualpublicationandfeaturesmarinehabi- wasproducedasacollaborativeeffortbetweenthe Available

It hasbeentwoyearssincethelastleath- Marine Awareness turtle assessmentintheTobagoCaysMarinePark. funding fromtheOrganizationofEasternCaribbeanStates(OECS)toconductasea the GovernmentofFrance. Agency oftheGEF;andFondFrançaisdel’EnvironnementMondial(FFEM) Reconstruction andDevelopment(theWorldBank)actingasanImplementing Development Unit(ESDU),inpartnershipwiththeInternationalBankfor being executedbytheOECSSecretariatthroughitsEnvironmentandSustainable and preventionofpollution. collisions atsea,seamanship,passengersafety,weather,engineeringknowledge, Master 3.Coursetopicscoveredboathandling,emergencysituations,preventing craft inaccordancewiththeInternationalMaritimeOrganizationstandardsforBoat tors, fishers,watersports/touroperators,andgovernmentfisheriesdepartments. Mariners whoattendedthetrainingrepresentmarineprotectedareas,watertaxiopera- Mayreau andUnionIslandtobetrainedcertifiedasBoatMastersGrade3. OPAAL project.Thetrainingenabled18marinersfromDominica,St.Lucia,Antigua, management andinsupportofsustainablelivelihoodsforcountriesparticipatingthe (OECS) andtheNovaScotiaCommunityCollege. training washeldincollaborationwiththeOrganizationofEasternCaribbeanStates mariners fromfoursoutheasternCaribbeanstatesasBoatMastersGrade3.The and AssociatedLivelihoods(OPAAL)Projectconcludedafive-daytrainingtocertify understand thevalueofmarineprotectedareas. that theLAMAstillhadtodoafairamountofpubliceducationgetpeople key recommendationsinhisstudy.DuringthediscussionsDominica,itwasclear and othercriticalstakeholders. continued communicationsbetweenthemselves,themanagingbodyofLAMA research findingsandrecommendations,includingtheneedformoresystematic of reference.AtthemeetingsmanycommunitymembersagreedwithMcConney’s supported byabroaderstakeholderadvisorygroup,bothofwhichhaveclearterms Management Authority(LAMA)tohaveasmallexecutiveboardofcorestakeholders specific recommendationsforDominica,includingrestructuringtheLocalArea sound, thereweresomemanagementissuesthatneededimprovement.Hemade for InternationalDevelopment(USAID). leading USconservationorganization,withfundingfromtheUnitedStatesAgency Indies, CaveHillCampus,incollaborationwithTheNatureConservancy(TNC),a Management andEnvironmentalStudies(CERMES)oftheUniversityWest Roseau, DominicaonJuly20th.TheresearchwasdonebytheCentreforResource (SSMR) inDominicawasoneofthehighlightsaregionalpolicydiscussionheld effective management. cent ofMPAstoberatedaseffectivelymanagedand13percenthavingpartially afforded bythemvariesconsiderably.TheReefsatRiskProjectfoundonlysixper- than 285MPAshavebeendeclaredacrosstheCaribbean,butlevelofprotection In otherTCMPnews,andtheOPAALprojectarepleasedtoannouncenew The trainingwasheldaspartoftheOPAALproject,afive-yeardevelopmentproject The trainingfocusedonboththeoreticalandpracticalelementsofcaptainingsmall The purposeofthetrainingwastobuildcapacityinprotectedareaplanningand On July23rd,theTobagoCaysMarinePark(TCMP)andOECSProtectedAreas Tobago CaysMarineParkNews:TrainingandTurtles McConney saidthattheexchangeofinformationbetweenislandswasone Dr. PatrickMcConneyofCERMESstressedthatwhiletheSSMRwasecologically The findingsofaresearchprojectontheSoufriere/Scott’sHeadMarineReserve Towing trainingatTobagoCaysMarinePark —Continued onnextpage SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11 Join 25th International Coastal Cleanup this Month! Join 25th International Coastal In the Caribbean, it is easy to get caught up in the Jo-Anne Nina Sewlal reports: creation of marine debris. Marine debris is simply the A good example of this is the the plastic ring that holds Another notoriously harmful piece of marine debris is can eat, so that they are If these rings entrap juveniles it restricts how much they a source of diseases, as you Marine debris also washes up on our shores and is has some control over and However, marine debris is something almost everybody clean-up organized by the Every year in September there is an international beach is slated for Saturday, The 25th Annual International Coastal Cleanup For more information visit www.oceanconservancy.org. During its first eight years in action, the Sustainable Grenadines Project has been Sustainable Grenadines Project eight years in action, the During its first Island Oyster designation of the Sandy was proud to see the Recently, SusGren for cultural exchange and attracting interna- SusGren has also been important will be a member organization consisting of represen- Sustainable Grenadines Inc. or Project Manager Martin Barriteau at (784) 485-8779 For more information, contact beauty above the waterline and to forget the beauty that lies beneath. What some of and to forget the beauty that lies beneath. What some beauty above the waterline we do above water affects the fauna and biodiversity us may not realise is that what in the water. found in the ocean, for example, a plastic bag that term given to any piece of garbage bag can do a lot of damage. was blown overboard. It may seem trivial but this plastic To a hungry sea turtle a For instance, the favourite food of sea turtles is jellyfish. However, when the turtle plastic bag suspended in the water resembles a jellyfish. consumes it, it chokes and dies of asphyxia. can get around the necks six-packs of soft drink and beer cans together. These rings them. If they are adults it is of animals and of course they are not able to remove (swimming, searching only a matter of time before it starts to restrict their movement they can consume. As the for food and escaping predators) and the amount of food its neck that it cannot breathe animal gains weight the ring becomes so tight around or feed and will eventually die either of asphyxia or starvation. and predators. This lack of not fully nourished and are thus susceptible to diseases adulthood and reproduce. nutrition also means that juveniles might not reach decreased. Therefore the size of the population of that species is needles, rusty metal cans and can get pierced by debris such as used hypodermic an economical point of view, other items. We also have to look at marine debris from stuck in propellers, causing as items such as discarded polypropylene line can get delays and costly repairs. solution is that “preven- we can do something about it. Of course the most obvious stow our garbage in a tion is better than cure”. For instance we boaters should on land. secure way until we come ashore and dispose of it properly the national coordinator Ocean Conservancy. In my homeland, Trinidad & Tobago, I encourage you, if you is the Caribbean Network for Integrated Rural Development. of hours of your time to this are on any island this month, to contribute a couple This is not just an ordinary cause. Check the national NGOs on the island for details. is recorded in order to get beach clean-up: the type and abundance of marine debris in an effort to put an data to determine the source of this type of marine pollution end to it. September 25th. instrumental in bringing outside funding and generating benefits for the Grenadines. and generating benefits for in bringing outside funding instrumental mini-projects to such as small grants for been both on the ground, Its focus has a seamoss beautification, developing clean-ups, signage and island include litter at higher levels project, as well as an Ashton Lagoon restoration farm, and starting conservation initiative to harmonize such as a transboundary of policy and planning, Marine Multiuse Zones. marine resource users with objectives and after many on Carriacou become a reality Area (SIOBMPA) Bed Marine Protected and facilitation. years of planning has partnered with Coady Institute and Dalhousie tional talent. The project also created strong networks with international agencies University, Canada and has the the US National Fish and Wildlife Foundation, such as The Nature Conservancy, the Atmospheric Administration, and the Society for US National Oceanic and Caribbean Birds. Conservation and Study of to organizations. Member organizations will be able tatives from registered Grenadine focus, while also having access to the many capacity help develop policy and project benefits that SusGren works tirelessly to secure. building and development funding visit www.cavehill.uwi.edu/cermes/susgrenadinesIndex.html. A new project in the park will assess the status A new project in the park will their habitat of sea turtle populations and Continued from previous page Continued from “The creation of the independent, Grenadine NGO is important to allow Grenadine “The creation of the independent, Grenadine NGO is important Sustainable Grenadines Project to Continue as ‘Inc.’ September 2nd with a cere- The Sustainable Grenadines Inc. will be launched on For more information about the Tobago Cays Marine Park and the OPAAL project in For more information about the Tobago Cays Marine Park The park’s marine biologist, Olando Harvey, explained, “In the park we see green The park’s marine biologist, Olando Harvey, explained, The new project will assess not only the status of sea turtle populations in the The new project will assess not only the status of sea Executive Director of WIDECAST, Dr. Karen Eckert, commented, “We are excitedExecutive Director of WIDECAST, Dr. Karen Eckert, In 1991-1993, WIDECAST facilitated the development of the Sea Turtle Recovery development of the Sea Turtle WIDECAST facilitated the In 1991-1993, The assessment will be undertaken with partner organization the Wider Caribbean partner organization the Wider will be undertaken with The assessment organizations to inject their ideas about sustainability and development and give organizations to inject their ideas about sustainability Martin Barriteau. “We are direction to SusGren,” says SusGren Project Manager and St. Vincent to sign up as seeking Grenadine organizations from both Grenada Members and to run for the Board of Directors.” mony on Union Island and a recruitment drive on the Grenadine islands. The launch mony on Union Island and a recruitment drive on the Integrated Development and is the culmination of eight years as the Sustainable (SusGren), initiated by Biodiversity Conservation in the Grenadine Islands Project Studies (CERMES) at the the Centre for Resource Management and Environmental Foundation based in University of the West Indies with funds from the Lighthouse Grenadine NGO, to continue Germany. This final phase sees the transition to a working on sustainable livelihoods and coastal conservation. St. Vincent & the Grenadines please contact either Sharon Gulick or Lesroy Noel at St. Vincent & the Grenadines please contact either Sharon (784) 485-8191 or [email protected]. turtles, which are considered endangered worldwide, and some hawksbill turtles, turtles, which are considered endangered worldwide, sea turtles, like all flora and which are considered critically endangered. These forward to implementing a fauna, are fully protected within the park and we look long-term sea turtle monitoring programme.” park, but also the habitat used by the turtles. To this end, WIDECAST, together with park, but also the habitat used by the turtles. To this in sea turtle research and the Barbados Sea Turtle Project, will train TCMP staff conservation techniques. about the opportunity to focus on the Tobago Cays Marine Park, and to share the latestabout the opportunity to focus on the Tobago Cays Marine the sea turtles in the park.”in scientific knowledge and research practices related to distribution of sea turtles nationally. Since then, personnel from the Fisheries distribution of sea turtles nationally. Since then, biology and conservation. Division have been trained by WIDECAST in sea turtle Action Plan for St. Vincent & the Grenadines, which investigated the status and which investigated St. Vincent & the Grenadines, Action Plan for Sea Turtle Conservation Network (WIDECAST), an international scientific network an international scientific Network (WIDECAST), Sea Turtle Conservation and community- resource professionals sea turtle experts, natural comprised of Caribbean nations and territories. in more than 40 based conservationists — SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12 24-hour security, marina-widewi-fiandmore.Technical services, beautiful, welcoming,andaffordable LouisMarina,Grenada– Port ITALY |MALTA |TURKEY www.cnportlouismarina.com Grenadines –it’s baseforcruising,allyearround. theperfect international airport, withdirectflightstoMiami,NewYork airport, international Now, LouisMarinais atPort withournewsummerrates,aberth LouisMarinaisjustifiablyknownasoneofthebestappointed, Port throughout thesummer. Theislandalsobenefitsfromitsown hurricane belt,whichmeansyachtscanremainsafelyafloat beauty, Grenadaiscloseto12 the marinahastooffer, docksidefacilities, includingexemplary full-service marinasintheCaribbean.Withitsspectacularlocation full-service In additiontoitswelcomingatmosphereandstunningnatural and London. or closeby. chandleries andhaul-outfacilitiesarealsoavailable,eitheron-site You’lleven moreaffordable. enjoyalltheconvenienceandluxury adjacent totheisland’s capital–andonthedoorstepofunspoilt o N andthereforeoutsidethe WEST INDIES 24 hoursadaytowelcomeyou. * SPECIAL SUMMERRATES –MAY toOCTOBER For more information about securing a summer berth at Port Louis atPort aboutsecuringasummerberth For moreinformation Port LouisMarinaisownedandoperatedbyCamper&Nicholsons Port Marina, pleasecontactDannyDonelanon+1(473)4150837 Marinas, and our friendly and knowledgeable staff areonhand Marinas, andourfriendlyknowledgeablestaff or [email protected] Prices validforbookingsofonemonthorlonger, between1Mayand31October2010. O nfe otl aeLAi etMonthlyrate LOAinfeet Monthlyrate LOA infeet pt 0$3 pt 0 $2265 $1760 $1350 upto 100 upto80 upto75 $930 $715 $520 up to60 up to50 up to40 pt 2$3 pt 5$1150 upto65 $330 up to32 * www.cnmarinas.com SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13

are Second Second ). for more than three years before Prism Carriacou is a very cruiser-friendly island. John and his wife Melodye are the drivingJohn and his wife Melodye doing this John added, “We have been spiral. We can make a difference one kid at a time. No, let me rephrase that. We making a difference one kid at a time.” The local business owners and bus drivers are among the friendliest people in the force behind the CCEF fundraiser. “This pro- force behind the CCEF fundraiser. and, with thisgram is now 11 years old EC$16,000, weyear’s proceeds of nearly All of thehave raised a total of EC$124,500. continue to go,money has gone, and will kids. Not onestraight into education of Everyonepenny gets spent on administration. does it on awho helps raise CCEF money Melodye. purely volunteer basis,” said we can now see fundraiser long enough that kids that we positive results. Some of the lunches at helped with uniforms and school the primary level have graduated from the TA Marryshow Community College on the CCEF scholarship program. One of the kids who graduated from the community college on a CCEF scholarship is now a teacher in the Carriacou school system. There are limited opportunities for kids in the islands. Education is one way out of the downward we can’t change the world, but we are damn we can’t change the world, at a time,” well going to try — one child (yacht explained John Pompa Millennium GEORG SCHMITT If you want to find deals on everything for your boat, Ed Kalinka and his wife, Dorothy, cruised the be channeled into three areas to help disadvantaged into three areas to help disadvantaged be channeled Martinique. A in Carriacou and Petite school children four cruisers committee composed of disbursements about businessmen will be allocating and three local to supply full the funds raised this year 45 percent of at the TA textbooks for four students scholarships and Another College in Carriacou. Marryshow Community school sup- go toward uniforms and 40 percent will and school students in Carriacou plies for primary will be Finally, about 15 percent Petite Martinique. for disadvantaged allocated toward school lunches Primary School. “We know students at the Harvey Vale Caribbean islands. The TBYH provides cruisers in Tyrrel Bay with 24-hour WiFi in exchange for dona- tions to the CCEF on an honor basis. The Tyrrel Bay anchorage is situated below 12°40’N, which is the southern extreme of the hurricane season “box” for some yacht insurance companies. The holding is good in sand patches and mooring balls have not taken up the good anchoring spots. Boat boys will not pester you before you can even get your anchor down, as in some of the islands. you can do it at next year’s CCEF fundraiser in Tyrrel Bay at the end of July. Enjoy the fun and excitement of the regatta and help with education of kids at the same time. Come to Tyrrel Bay during the Carriacou Regatta. Together, we are making a difference through education. Caribbean on heading west on their six-year circumnavigation. They heading west on their six-year circumnavigation. They arrived back in the Caribbean this past February. M92B M135 M225Ti Sabre M225Ti ). The potluck barbecue Prism ) at the Carriacou Yacht Club was a feast. The proceeds from this year’s CCEF fundraiser will “How much do you want to offer?” answered “How much do you want to offer?” answered “Will you take fifty EC?” “Sold. It’s for the kids.” Reasonable offers turned into happy purchases of In addition to the auction, cruisers had a great time dinner hosted by Gordon and Judy Evans (yacht dinner hosted by Gordon and Judy Evans (yacht Dreamcatcher After cruisers polished off their plates, Gordon raffled off two bottles of rum, a T-shirt, a canvas shopping bag and pistachios. If you like to eat, drink and be merry, don’t miss next year’s fundraiser opening potluck. fans?” asked a prospective buyer. the volunteer. T-shirts, hats, electronics, boat gear, books, DVD movies, music CDs, handmade crafts, ornate shopping bags, note cards with island scenes, jewelry, charts and cruising guides. Cruisers even snapped up hats rumored (unfortunately falsely) to have the emblem of an exclusive European bordello. at a lively dominoes tournament hosted by Ed and Dorothy Kalinka (yacht by Ed Kalinka CCEF fundraiser 2010 volunteers display the total amount raised to date. CCEF fundraiser 2010 volunteers display the total amount The funds gathered ‘make a difference, one kid at a time’ Call Parts & Power for your nearest dealer: (284) 494 2830 www.partsandpower.com . Yachties and locals had the Maxima ), a fully functional Toshiba lap-

Irie

This large capacity 6 liter engine comes in a compact package and only takes out 225 hp. By comparison, our nearest competition takes that out of a 4 liter engine. Running at a low 2500 rpm will have a longer life (minimum 12,000 hour the M225Ti 3300 rpm or higher, versus the competition’s TBO) and quieter operation. The gear-driven fresh water pump has a longer life and less to go wrong while the waste gate turbo An integral plate-type oil cooler combines fewer hoses charger gives better performance at lower rpms. with longer life and better efficiency. outstanding marinization, excess hoses and belts have been engineered away and With Perkins’ everything has easy access for stress-free maintenance. The Perkins Sabre M225Ti is designed to replace the Perkins more than 22% additionalM200 and M235 and provides available in the same package. horsepower While volunteer auctioneers were selling the more Arawak Dive donated a certificate for a two-person, The main event for the CCEF fundraiser is Have you ever attended one of those Boat Have you ever attended one 22% more (sea) horses valuable items, there was a lot more gear for sale at valuable items, there was a lot more gear for sale at the bargain tables. “How much for these two cabin two-tank dive and LumbaDive donated a certificate for an introductory dive course for two. Local restaurants donated certificates for dinner at the Lazy Turtle Pizzeria, the Twilight Restaurant and the Lambi Queen Restaurant. There were certificates for homemade donuts, a cake from Patty’s Deli and a massage from Genevy’s Massage. Cruisers snapped them all up with big smiles. the auction and sale of donated items. “Wow. There’s some good stuff here,” was one of the most frequently heard comments at the fundraiser. One of the highlights of the auction was a donated certificate for a complete haul-out at the Tyrrel Bay Yacht Haulout (TBYH) facility, including travel-lifting out and in, power washing, chocking and five lay days. This year, the auctioned items includ- ed WiFi amplifiers (one of which was a brand new Wirie WiFi Amplifier generously donated by yacht opportunity to bid on a 14-inch TV, a Dell desktop computer loaded with software, a compressor, an eight- person offshore liferaft, an anchor windlass and a great deal of lightly used electronics and boat hardware. of Carriacou Children of Carriacou cruisers attempt Jumbles where a handful of You know what to sell their used boat gear? a sorry mixture I’m talking about. They bring and price it way of worn out, broken junk annual auction above its value. Well, the the Carriacou and sale of boat gear at (CCEF) fund- Children’s Education Fund air. Throughout raiser is a breath of fresh gear and other the year, cruisers with boat room on their items taking up too much off at the overloaded yachts drop them Tyrrel Bay. The Carriacou Yacht Club in these donated Yacht Club collects and stores fundraiser gems until the annual CCEF was again takes place. This year’s fundraiser of the Carriacou held in Tyrrel Bay at the time Regatta during the last week of July. top computer, power tools, a Data Scope containing a digital fluxgate compass, a digital camera, attractive brass oil lamps, a 12-volt AM/FM/marine band DVD player with an auxiliary cable to connect an MP3 player, and three prints by cruising artist Anna Allegra Desio of yacht Big Bucks for the Education Education for the Bucks Big Cruisers’ Fundraiser Nets Nets Fundraiser Cruisers’ SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 like a12Meteryacht. was lengthenedandwidened,nowshelooksmore Windward. Hertopsideplankingwasremoved,she Calvin, sosomeweeksagoshewaspulledashorein fast, shewasdifficulttobeat,butnotfastenoughfor to havetheappearanceofan8Metreyacht.Slimand Calvin Patrice,whilebeingatrueCarriacousloopused Patrice, sheprovesherselftobestiffandfast. endary CheesemanPatriceandsailedbyAdrian ready intime.”Andsheis.Builtbythelateandleg- go —canshereallybeready?“Yes,Frank.She 45 feet,anewrudderandsternpostfitted.Sixdaysto out holesforkeelbolts. cast andshipwrightFitzroy“Nero”McLarenisboring shipwrights workingonher.Anewleadkeelhasbeen will bestiffcompetitionto refit. OwnedandsailedbyCyril“UncleC”Compton,she Classic RegattabuiltinCarriacou2007,hashada priate, though!The sure thatalarge“ForSale”signonthetransomisappro- keel, mastandsailsisreadytodobattle.Iamnot byFrankPearce in DeckedSloopsClasses New BuildsandRebuilds Frank Bethel’s The 42-footbrightred On thebeacholdersloop Deep Vision Margeta O Khaleb Glacier, Glacier has had a new transom, hashadanewtransom, , a past winner at Antigua , apastwinneratAntigua hasbeenlengthenedto Khaleb C and ownedandsailedby Deep Vision. hasaboutsix CARRIACOU REGATTAFESTIVAL2010 for EliFulleralsoofAntigua;and for AlexisAndrewsofAntigua;anewlaunch, skippered byStanleyQuashie; Malutka dled bytwowhennotracing.Thesmallestvesselsare ning andbeautifulboat.Alovelysize,sheiseasilyhan- finally finished.Shegoesontoproveherselfafast,win- The masthasjustbeensteppedandtherigisbeing New Moon in PetiteMartinique,ownedandsailedbyJeffStevens. huge rig;seemslikehisfullstaffishere. in hisyardhadrecentlylengthenedherandfitteda Woodstock BoatbuildersinAntigua.Heandtheguys She isownedandsailedbyAndrewRobinsonof Martinique in1997,hasjustarrivedfromAntigua. —Continuedonpage16 the roleoftactician. race. WearefortunatetohaveWinsleyMcLawrancein Martineau; and double-ender or“twobow”boatsailedbyJunior In the smaller sloop class we have the just-launched In thesmallersloopclasswehavejust-launched Also inthebiggersloopclassare Summer Cloud, I amluckyenoughtosailon , a 25-year-old decked-in Bequia double-ender, , a25-year-olddecked-inBequiadouble-ender, , built by Bernard Compton for Dave Goldhill. , builtbyBernardComptonforDaveGoldhill. Runaway

builtbyBaldwindeRocheinPetite SHABIER KIRCHNER SHABIER sailed byEvelynEnoe. Genesis Small Pin, Genesis Beauty, boards, anything“togetmoresailarea,man”. modifying oldsailstoownersideas’,fittingfull-lengthbattens,bighead- little extrabitofspeed. tened mainsgoon,propellersareremovedandaperturesfairedforthat and sotoprepareforracing,workingsailshavecomeofffullybat- yacht racing.Thebigdifferenceisthatmostoftheseboatsworkforaliving ity isprettyfrantic. August 1stand2nd.Sixdaystogobeforethefirstofthreeraces,activ- to whereotherdeckedsloopsarebeingpreparedfortheracing,beheld and intherumshops,eachtackisbeinglookedatdiscussed,volubly. Working BoatdivisionoftheCarriacouRegattaFestival2010.Allalongbeach as bothboatsareseriouscontendersintheDeckedSloopsClassesof sloops — Carl arealsopartofthebuildingteam. surements totheactualtimbersorloftingboards.Alwyn’sothersonsChrisand model, modifyituntiltheyarepleasedwiththelinesandthentransfermea- model hebuiltduringthedesigningofnewboat. Carriacou shapeisemerging.SonTerryholdingandexaminingthehalf P Over inTyrellBay,AndySmelt’ssailloft,InStitches,isworkingflatout The enthusiasmandcompetitivenessherematchanythingtobefoundin I aminCarriacoufortheregattaandwalkalongbeachWindward In thechannelbetweenusandPetiteMartiniquereefs,two Rather thanworkingtoplans,thebuilderandhissonwillmakehalf fortheSunday , built by Alwyn , builtbyAlwyn built last year built lastyear a delightful adelightful Zemi, Glacier “on spec”.Keelandframesareinplaceherlovelytypical a renownedCarriacouboatbuilder,isbuilding42-footsloop beautiful Julymorningandwearetalkingboatbuilding.Alwyn, I amwithAlwynEnoeandhiseldestsonTerry.It’sabright beach andoverlookingPetiteMartiniquePetitSt.Vincent, erched onagrassyknollatWindward,Carriacou,rightbythe built built and Margeta O FLIGHTS TO & FROMST. LUCIA Below: Yachtssometimesloansails from Antiguatorace Inset: ThePetiteMartinique-built practicing offWindward Main photo:

NEW JET ADDED TO THE FLEET! — are tacking to and fro. All eyes are on them, —aretackingtoandfro.Alleyesonthem, AIR AMBULANCE Glacier New Services: , winnerofallracesinherclass, Summer Cloud

came ALEXIS ANDREWS MARK KILTY MARK ANDREWS ALEXIS SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15

MARK KILTY LIESBET COLLAERT .com at L’Esterre Beach, Double Bluff and Limbo, Lightning, Ace from Bequia, skippered by sailmaker Alick Daniel Limbo preparing for the Saturday’s Long Open Boats Race Above: Below, left to right:

. We holdin’ Lightning Lightning an’ Uncle Skyler Double Bluff an’ , no leadin’ all de way Skyler Bequia Pride . de wrong chart. But third an’ Lightning, Bequia Pride, competed in More Worries Ace an’ Lightning ain’t ready so dey say let of Carriacou and an’ an’ CARRIACOU REGATTA FESTIVAL 2010 REGATTA FESTIVAL CARRIACOU Double Bluff Lightning It got ah sayin’ dat time pass It got ah sayin’ dat time pass an’ t’ings change, but when it an’ t’ings change, but when dat come to Carriacou Regatta, Ah not true. Nothin’ change! 40 goin’ to Carriacou fo’ about it years off an’ on, an’ when dem come to startin’ de races, always late an’ ah ain’t talkin’ on minutes, ah talkin’ hours. We 31st Lesterre beach, Saturday de ten July. Dey say race go’ start o’clock but, fo’ me, ah know better. The course: leave Lesterre upwind to ah mark in Hillsborough, up to Windward, around ah navigation mark den up to ah mark between Petit St. Vincent an’ Petite Martinique, downwind to one at Sandy Island, back to Hillsborough an’ Skyler Bequia Pride Lightning Improved Bequia Pride Long Open Boats Class A

ELAINE OLLIVIERRE Double Bluff an’ second, Barefoot Yacht Charters & Marine Centre Yacht Barefoot Skyler • Doyle Sail Loft & Canvas Shop • Mechanical & Electrical Repairs • Vehicle Rentals • Raymarine Electronics • Ice & Water • Fibreglass Repairs • Island Tours Work • Refrigeration • Quiksilver Surf Wear • On-site Accommodation • Laundry • Showers • Wi-Fi / Internet Café • Restaurant & Bar • Diesel & Propane • Surftech Surf Shop • Book Exchange • Boutique • Moorings • Hotel Reservations • Air Travel PO Box 39, Blue Lagoon, St Vincent, West Indies Skyler ; from Carriacou is Tel. 1-784-456-9526 / 9334 / 9144 Fax. 1-784-456-9238 Double Bluff, Bequia Pride first,

Limbo from Canouan an’ from Bequia is an’

Lightning — de man ain’t givin’ up! Dey get dem chart sayin’ go around a buoy — de man ain’t givin’ up! Dey get dem chart sayin’ go Nerissa J2

headin’ down. Anyway, we do we course, an’ Devine

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After three o’clock, we start de next race but nothin’ ain’t settle from de first one. After three o’clock, we start de next race but nothin’ We start ah little after 12 o’clock, winds touchin’ 12 knots an’ skies fair to fine. Is ahWe start ah little after 12 o’clock, winds touchin’ 12 knots three, ah bit overcast an’ de Sunday is here an’ de real t’ing start today: de best ah

[email protected] www.barefootyachts [email protected]

to de finish. Is when we get ashore, we hear dem give to de finish. Is when we get ashore, we hear dem give she do one lap an’ come ah did lookin’ fo’ she to complete she course. Instead, On top ah dat, he ain’t de ashore. An’ ah hear dem gi’ she ah horn at de finish line! all from Bequia an’ Canouan: only one wid de wrong chart. In de 18-foot class, is Nerissa J1 Lacey in yo’ know what ah mean. Ah All boats goin’ down, little one, big one an’ in-between, de chart dem give me. We only hope we goin’ right dis time but ah know ah followin’ get shore at dusk, fourth. It so late an’ everybody wet because it rainin’. All ah want is ah cold beer an’ ah warm sheet an’ hope tomorrow go’ be better. —Continued on next page off Cistern Point, but when dey get down dey — no mark. How dem go settle dat, ah off Cistern Point, but when dey get down dey — no mark. before night. don’t know. Is two race today: ah hope dem get through in de water like ah bunch ah damn fools. Ah could find ah better way to put it, but in de water like ah bunch ah damn fools. Ah could find leave it at dat. At last we go, headin’ north to another mark. We shoutin’ dem an’ letting dem know is downwind headin’ north to another mark. We shoutin’ dem an’ he headin’ north an’ me an’ because ah consult me chart again fo’ mek sure but no, Bequia Pride

Ollivierre Orbin by ‘Anything Goes’: Goes’: ‘Anything open race so all who want fo’ sail could sail. From Bequia we got open race so all who want fo’ sail could sail. From Bequia 37 boats on de beach an’ 13 weather man say rain an’ gusts in squalls. Ah count reach an’ dey say all boats sloops outside wid sails up, ah good fleet. Well, 11 o’clock get ready. De Big Class goin’ first but finish. So ah like dat; dat is a good change ah course! Double Bluff, Iron Duke, Downwind dem gone: all weturn de Petit St. Vincent mark den hoist dem spinnaker. ah racin’ ah see spinnaker oncould do is watch in disbelief. Is de first time in me years ha’ fo’ say ‘bout dat whenah double-ender! Ah will ha’ fo’ see what de race committee ah open race, anyt’in’ goes. Ahwe get ashore. But all dem say when we protest was, is on de spot. But at least dembit late fo’ we, but now we know. Dem cut we racin’ spirit Amen to dat. say dem can’t use dem tomorrow or dem will get disqualify. off de little ones first. In de mean time, dem got go over de committee boat an’ down to de Sisters. We headin’ downwind an’ go over de committee boat an’ down to de Sisters. We headin’ SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 Frank PearcecommissionedtherebuildingofCarriacousloop building andCaribbeanculture.Makeitadatefornextyear. ties duringthedayandevening. not justabouttheracing,it’sCarriacou,andthereisafullprogramofactivi- that extrabitofair. “Water sails”,perhapsoldjibsortarpaulins,aresetunderneaththeboomstocatch Spinnaker polesarestoutbamboos,maybe30feetlong,lodgedinsidethebulwarks. spinnakers (whichmaybediscardedfromorloanedbyyachts)arerapidlyset. Maristella, “Come downsee,man.Ihavenoengineindeboat!”Noengine,protest. Summer Cloud planned start,thatisthestartofrace.Maybeyoucan’teliminateproteststhough; that whenthefirstboatcrossesstartline,whichcouldbeanhourorsoafter handicaps, justaBigandSmallclass;firstboatbackwins.Whatismoreconfusing but onedoesneedadegreeofcourageandcrewwithveryloudvoices.Thereareno hands havebecome:blistersinthefirsthalfhour. Given thejoboflookingaftermainsheetIquicklybecomeawarehowsoftmy and isnowbuildingtohisowndesignaveryfastlooking45-footsloopinWindward. — Yachtsman, tugboatcaptain,andPastVice-CommodoreoftheAntiguaYachtClub, A wonderfuleventandnottobemissedbyanyoneinterestedintraditionalboat- After theracing,HillsboroughtakesonappearanceofCarnival.Thisweekis I don’tthinkthereisanylimittotheamountofsailthatonemayuse.Onrun, A singularlackofracingrulespossiblymakeslifesimplerandeliminatesprotests, Winsleyhasownedandsailedworkingboatsupdowntheislandsallhislife Continued frompage14 smallest oftheLargeDeckedSloopsClass,inRoundIslandRace was so fast that Andrew was accused of using his engine. He loved it: was sofastthatAndrewaccusedofusinghisengine.Helovedit: …Decked SloopsClasses Tradition

in2008.

ALEXIS ANDREWS ALEXIS MARK KILTY MARK Sailing Club. please widdisone! Committee fo’getdemacttogetherbeforenextyearbecauseahsureMr.Riggain’t squall an’all,fo’isahlongtimeain’tflaponeatsea.ButwilladvisedeSailin’ body realizedatdemdon’tknowwhatdoin’.Ahtellyo’what,ahenjoydesailin’, announce West Indiansrunawayfromisrain.An’todampent’ingsahbitmorewhendey Ah knowdemfellersgoin’hitsomegoodJackIronfo’warmtonight. de finishinahten-milecourse,notfair.Delastoneatduskaround7o’clock. fo’ telldetruthahlotmoredanothers.Itbeatsecondsloopby20minutesto rebuilt it.Deylengthenitan’givemorebeaman,ofcourse,mastandsails: one-sided tome.Itgotonebydenameah downwind widdemspinnakerofallcolours.Ahwatchdewaybutitlookkinda hope somebodycomefo’rescuedem. de course.Wepassin’smallerboatsallwayinwater,tryin’tofreedemself—ah fo’ tackawayfromJagadam.Afterdat,itgetcalman’nice,stillrainin’butwefinish goin’ northdistime.Luckyt’ingitain’tlastlongasbeginfo’clear.Wejustintime astern justasfastwebeengoin’ahead!Wemanagetogetitclearan’startflappin’ Dat isdetimeahknowwhydeycalldemboatdouble-enderbecausewestartgoin’ fo’ getawayfromdereef.Wesailsflappin’,wemainsheettanglearoundtraveler. We ondesouthtackpointin’fo’shorebutwecan’tseenothin’.saygo getting’ blackan’visibilitygettin’low.AswegetbySandyIsland,allhellbreakloose. comin’, no everybody holdin’back.Wesetoffabout12o’clockdownwindfo’delasttime.But worse laterindedaywidgustsupto35knots.10o’clockan’nosailsset.Like — Iron Duke Left toright:InLongOpenBoatsClassB, e-mail: [email protected] VHFCh16/68 Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527 (evenings) (northern sideofAdmiralty Bay) Located oppositeG.Y.E.

Boatbuilder, racerandfishermanOrbinOllivierreistheCommodoreofBequia Prize-givin’ wasahbitondeflatsidebecauseitrainin’alltimean’onlyt’ing We getbackintimetoseedesloopsstart,13ahdem.Demlookrealgoodgoin’ Tomorrow reachbutnotbetter.Itrainin’likehellan’deweathermansayitgo’get Continued frompreviouspage Lightning S BIMINI &DODGER Skyler A runningwing-and-wing Lightning including ; shestaybackfumblin’widsails.WeturndeSistersan’upwindwe forallyour indelead, GRE I G LLS &CANVAS indeoverallfirstpositionfo’BigOpenBoats.Isdenevery- R CUSTOM-MADE S Come inandseeus Double Bluff E BBEQUIA

SAILS &CANVAS & framesatcompetitiveprices N E Q …Open Boats an’ AADINES

Ace, Limbo U Bequia Pride Glacier C D I stainless steel . Itwasoneahdeoldonesbutdey A A I andthecentury-oldseineboat N battlin’itout.Butindeeast needs REPRESENTATIVE N E V S

A S SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17

ELLEN BIRRELL won , while Saga taking the third. In Fun Bloody Mary helm,

Spirited Lady Tulaichean II third. Samadhi’s CARRIACOU finally found her form to win Fun soloed in the Multihull Class. came in third. Chao Lay Tel/Fax: 473.443.8175 won Cruising Class convincingly, with beat Jon Constantine’s Feeling 39, VHF: 16 [email protected] Kayen Sanctus, Salai in second and Saga , overall winner of Fun Class to achieve her first win in this year’s regatta. Yachts raced into the sunset was champion multihull. third. , and

Samadhi Salai On Regatta Sunday the yachts don’t race as we take Kayen Far left: Frank Peace at with crewmembers Sebastian and Judy Left: Insets: A knowing look from Jerry as he dispenses Skippers’ Briefing info; and cut on south side of Frigate Island Above: tions (although a little lumpy on the northeast corner tions (although a little lumpy on the northeast corner of Frigate). Imagine Bloody Mary the opportunity to watch the local sloops while anchored off Sandy Island sampling the major sponsor’s product. Sandy Island is now part of Carriacou’s marine park, which we hope will assist in its preservation and management. Class, Samadhi Bloody Mary Fun Class. second and Salai was second and Alex Johnstone’s Salai 50-ton hoist, 18ft beam, 8ft draft Water Do it yourself or labour available Mini - Marina Chandlery New environmentally friendly haulout

I would like to thank race officer Randy Mainwaring, sponsors Mount Gay, Doyle I would like to thank race officer Randy Mainwaring, year! And thank you, competitors. Please come again next the proprietor of Tyrrel Bay Yacht skipper and tugboat captain Jerry Stewart is Overall, after tiebreakers in both Cruising and Fun classes, Overall, after tiebreakers in both Cruising and Fun Dominique Weber’s Jeanneau Sun Kiss 47, Monday’s Budget Marine Race featured typical Tropical Wave weather. Monday’s Budget Marine Race featured typical Tropical TYRREL BAY YACHT HAULOUT ● ● ● ● ● ●

Sails, Island Water World, Budget Marine, Fidel Productions, Round House and Lazy Sails, Island Water World, Budget Marine, Fidel Productions, Turtle — this regatta could not run without your support. Yacht Haulout. Cruising and Class, with well in front, tried to relocate the tiny islet of Jack A Dan without success and the well in front, tried to relocate the tiny islet of Jack A ensuing delay permitted Tulaichean II

Tiebreakers, a Tropical a Tropical Tiebreakers, ELLEN BIRRELL ELLEN BIRRELL Wave and a Touch of Class Wave and Yacht Races: Yacht by Jerry Stewart suf- , skip- Spirited was not Kayen CARRIACOU REGATTA FESTIVAL 2010 REGATTA FESTIVAL CARRIACOU . Both added a Yellow Bird , with new sails, second and Jerry , recorded second. Ned Kelly, Salai Samadhi Saga, Stillus , third. skippered by Bob van der Hoeven. skippered by Bob van der Boyo, , sailing as Team Palm Tree Marine, record- , sailing as Team Palm Tree Petite Martinique 16-18 feet of water alongside , with third place going to the immaculate , with third place going Suitable for Large Power Yachts Bloody Mary Unobstructed dock in calm water Cheapest prices in the Grenadines The best fuel dock in the Grenadines for: Samadhi Contact: Glenn Clement or Reynold Belmar Tulaichean II

uly was a sleepy month, with few yachts anchored in Tyrrel month, with few yachts uly was a sleepy So it was hurricane season fast approaching. Bay and the 2010’s Mount that Carriacou Regatta with great pleasure 25 entries for the yacht race series welcomed Gay-sponsored FUEL • OIL • WATER • ICE

and Frank Pearce’s 50-foot schooner, and Frank Pearce’s 50-foot Easily approached from Carriacou, Union I., Palm I. & PSV Tel/Fax: (473) 443-9110 email: [email protected] B & C FUELS ENTERPRISE Racing continued for the diehards on the Saturday, when the Island Racing continued for the diehards on the Saturday, when In Fun Class, with frequent winner Andy Smelt from In Fun Class, with frequent enlivened the Mount Gay rum punch made to a secret Bajan recipe The hotly favoured catamaran, Don Marmo’s The hotly favoured catamaran, This race always attracts one or two really pretty yachts and this This race always attracts Race officer Randy Mainwaring from Grenada started cruisers at Race officer Randy Mainwaring J Water World-sponsored Frigate Island Race was sailed in fine condi- Water World-sponsored Frigate Island Race was sailed post-race party at the Lazy Turtle pizzeria, where the race was relived post-race party at the Lazy Turtle pizzeria, where the all evening. fering from dengue, the race was wide open. After 15 years of compet- fering from dengue, the race and his ing in the regatta, Uwe Gerstmann The 40-foot Joshua-type steel ketch tri- finally recorded his first win. umphed over victory to the aluminium cat equal to the squall, giving pered by Auro. Paul O’Regan’s Warram cat, 41-foot Dutch steel cutter, Stewart’s Hughes 38, year was no exception, with Susie Stanhope’s 56-foot sloop, year was no exception, with S&S 44, ed a fine win, with Tim Sudell’s 2010 Doyle Two-Handed Round Carriacou Race. Round Carriacou 2010 Doyle Two-Handed 30th, with winds light out of the east- 0830 on Friday morning, July yachts had rounded the windward reef, a southeast. As the leading of summer regattas, greeted the rest significant squall, the downside the leaders to escape. Mike Bingley’s of the fleet and permitted Bénéteau 38, Lady, was split into three classes: Cruising, touch of class to the fleet, which Fun and Multihull. SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 ghy to 31st. Thefleetrangedinsizefroma16-footFireballdin- Race organizedbytheSt.LuciaYachtClubonJuly turned outforthesecondannualEmancipationDay Walters at(473)420-9411. Grenada NationalSailingAcademycontactNick tact KevinBanfieldat(473)533-7142,andthe ing somebusystartlines. port, andtoBarryAlexisforhisexcellentjoboversee- for theiron-the-watersafetysupervisionandracesup- Junior SailingInstructorattheGrenadaYachtClub, National SailingAcademyandMichaelMcQueen, first, secondandthirdplacewinnersineachClass: one whotookpart,plustrophiesandmedalstothe Grenada, presentedmedalsandcertificatestoevery- ening breeze. ability todealwithchangingconditionsinastrength- and racetacticstheyhadlearned,alongwiththe exciting racesallsailorsshowedthecompetitiveskills two Classes:BeginnersandAdvanced.Intheseriesof Academy hadarangeofexperience,sotherewere and sevensailorsfromtheGrenadaNationalSailing providing additionalsupport. Sailing AssociationandtheGrenadaFestival Academy, theGrenadaYachtClub, Management, theGrenadaNationalSailing Budget Marine,withCatfishBoats,Marine Birthday celebrations,theeventwassponsoredby A newfeatureofthevillage’sannualFisherman’s Championship, organizedbyinstructorKevinBanfield. the firstGouyaveSailingSchoolJunior REGATTA NEWS Despite anunsettledweatherforecast,nineboats J/24s TopSt.Lucia’sRodneyBay-Marigot-ReturnRace For informationontheGouyaveSailingSchoolcon- Thanks alsogotoNickWaltersoftheGrenada 3) DennisBernadine 2) NoahBullen 1) KwesiPaul Advanced Class 3) SherkimRobertson 2) KivonSt.Paul 1) JakimYoung Beginners’ Class Nicholas George,managerofBudgetMarine The 16competitorsfromtheGouyaveSailingSchool On June27th,23talentedyoungsailorscompetedin Gouyave’s JuniorSailingTalentinGrenada - HurricaneMoorings - Minimarket,CarRental,Laundry - Fuel&Gasoline - Showers,Lounge,Pool,Restaurants,Bar Webcam, Wi-Fi - 230/110V (50/60Hz), Water, - Customs&Immigration and15draft - 60slipsforboatsupto120feet Marina & Yachtclub Breeze Away , a50-footsloop,toscatteringof Le Phare Bleu Marina

Frits Bus.ThirdwasJanvandenEynde’s of 12pointsover ing onlyoneraceoftheseries,shetookaneasylead Standard dinghies,andintheJ/24class. resented intheSunfish,LaserRadialand Puerto Rico,July17thtoAugust1st.Barbadoswasrep- American andCaribbeanGames,heldinCaboRojo, agers tocompeteinsailingeventsattheCentral Sailing Associationsenteightathletesandtwoman- November 21st,opentovisitorsaswelllocalboats. Sir BobbyVelasquez’s for sailingmoreracesandthusplacedfirst.Thirdwas Pelican MarinaResidences results. While Tamaya, Residences, ond. BothGarthSteyn’sCatalina36, fiercer, withonlytwopointsseparatingfirstandsec- the Non-SpinnakerClass.Butwith competitions, missingmorelocalracingthanthosein 35. Mostboatsinthisclassalsoraceinternational Scott Anthonyon Marcus Sweeney,StephanieLovell,JasiaKingand Congratulations totheyouthteamofLuisMeixner, prizegiving fortheir2010KeelboatSeries—andthe organizers SeanFullerandDanielleDeRouck. Bay Marina(Marigotfinishline).Specialthankstothe start andfinishline)BobHathawayfromMarigot race support,TedBullandAdamSlayed(RodneyBay Edwin ChavezfromIGYMarinaforassistancewith Forest Skyrides,StLuciaRums,CaféOle,aswell Marigot Bay,followedbysisterJ/24s the boatbacktoClub. capsized. TheIGYsafetyRIBwasclosebyandtowed Bay, nearBarrelO’BeefRock,thetwo-crewFireball up spinnakersandinthelead.JustoutsideRodney south toMarigotBayonarun,withtheJ/24sputting rounding markatPigeonPoint.Thefleetthenheaded fleet closelygroupedastheyheadedtowardsa J/24 return legat2:00 Jabal east breezeforthe10:00 J/24s, twoofwhichwerecrewedbyyouthteams. J/24s The BarbadosOlympicAssociationandthe Barbados SailingTeamat2010CACGames,PuertoRico For [email protected]. The firstracefortheKeelboatSeries2011willbeon The competitionintheNon-SpinnakerClasswas On July3rd,theSintMaartenYachtClubheld Sint MaartenYachtClub’sKeelboatSeriesWinners For moreinformationvisitwww.stluciayachtclub.com. Thanks gotoprizesponsorsHeineken,Digicel,Rain Claudia Vogel Race conditionsweregreat:a12-to14-knotnorth- Overall firstthreeplacesonhandicapwenttothe Claudia Vogel Claudia Vogel,Attitude . AfterlunchinMarigotBay,thefleetstartedits missedfewracesandwereverycloseinthe the seasonthesewerejoinedby as welltheOpen750 Budget MarineToo three Melges, Ian Hope-Ross.Hope-Rossandhiscrewfought Bénéteau 36.7 year: SpinnakerandNon-Spinnaker. racing, thefleetincreasedtotwoclassesthis ages wereservedbyvolunteers. Homemade, complimentaryfoodandbever- in theseriesoverlastninemonths. porters representingthe16localboatsracing enough forthe80skippers,crewandsup- unofficial openingofthenewclubbar,big Winner oftheSpinnakerClasswas While lastyearsawasmallnumberofboats and RonnievanSittert’sContention33, Tamaya wasfirsttoreachthefinishlineoutside PM Coors LightSailingTeam Claudia Vogel . tookanearlylead,withthemain often beatherrivalovertheline, L’Esperance Coors LightSailingTeam, Kick ‘emJenny AM hadhigheroverallpoints startoffReduitBeach.The and Petite CalivignyBay, St.George‘s, Grenada W.I., POS12°00‘11N /61°43‘29W and . French Connection Panic Attack dayatthePool-BarRestaurant - breakfast,lunchanddinnerservedall lighthouseship - ﬁnediningonaunique,historical Restaurants Kick ‘emJenny Jabal. . Attitude Pelican Marina , skipperedby Panic Attack

skipperedby Wild and , aKiwi . Laterin miss- , .

chartered byaUSteamtoparticipateintheevent. other internationalboatingpublications,and has beenfeaturedin (1907) oftheInternational12Metrespecification.She Walwyn andwaspreciselydesignedtothe“FirstRule” the BahamasClassontheirnewValiant42 owners ofRogueWaveYachtSalesinAnnapolis,willlead ing theBahamas.KateChristensenandBernieJakits, Caribbean 1500.Therewillalsobelecturesaboutexplor- social events,briefings,andinspectionsofthe Class fleetwillincludedivisionsforracersandcruisers. directly toMarshHarborintheBahamas.TheBahamas main Caribbean1500fleetleavesforTortola,tosail Hampton, VirginiaonNovember1st,thesameday Class, opentopowerandsailboaters.Itleaves 21st AnnualCaribbean1500toincludeaBahamas Corrie andPeterThompsonplaced8th. Ian Mayers,KwamiHinds,EddieCheeseman,Russell 15th ontheSunfish,andJ/24teamcomprisedof 18th Cox placed11thinLaserRadial,JasonTindale to competein. our CACGamessoimportantforregionalathletes in allfleets.Thatisoneoftheverythingsthatmake one isracingagainstOlympicandworld-classsailors every day,bothonthewaterandoff! dolphins andseaturtles,theBajansailorslearned and fluky.However,thesailorssharedwaterswith beach venue,andthewindswerestubbornlylight es wereone-and-a-halfhours’tow/sailawayfromthe the islandofHispaniola,stoppingat12ports,marinas… cultural experience—athree-weekrace/rallyaround Caribbean achallengingsailingeventandunique basis atafeeofUS$70perraceforCSAmembers. its trophyandentriesareacceptedonaday-by-day invited tojoinatanypointoftheregatta.Eachdayhas island toisland.Participantsfromsurroundingislandsare and trophypresentationatthefort. front ofFortOranje,followedthateveningbyaparty United States,theFirstSaluteRacewilltakeplacein oration ofthefirstsaluteaccordedflag Statia (St.Eustatius.)OnNovember16th,incommem- run toafinishlineoffthecliffsbelowFortOranjeon races toGustavia,St.Barth’s,followedbyasingle-leg run uptoRoadBay,Anguilla.Thenextday,thefleet at Philipsburg,St.MaartenforthestartofRaceOne:a year’s GoldenRock. Boat based, gaff-rigged12Metresloop through 17th,hasannouncedthattheCaribbean- Golden RockRegatta,tobeheldNovember13th ples, familiesandracers—experiencedfirst-timers. ments thatbroadentheappealofeventstocou- offer social,educationalandtechnologicalenhance- competitive elementsoftraditionalsailboatraces,but Launched in2006, Bahamas Class Ralliers will enjoy all of the pre-event Bahamas ClassRallierswillenjoyallofthepre-event The CruisingRallyAssociationwillbeexpandingits Caribbean 1500toIncludeBahamasClass Congratulations goouttotheBarbadossailors:Amy The competitionwasfierce—notsurprisingwhen The sailingconditionswerenotthebest,ascours- The Around Hispaniola Race offers sailors in the The AroundHispaniolaRaceofferssailorsinthe Around HispaniolaRace:AUniqueExperience For moreinformationvisitwww.goldenrockregatta.com. The GoldenRockRegattahasfourracesgoingfrom The GoldenRockRegattafleetgathersinGreatBay Juul Hermsen,CommitteeChairforthe6thAnnual Join For moreinformationvisitwww.carib1500.com. Cruising RallyAssociationeventsretainsomeofthe

issponsoringthewoodenvesselclassinthis in theLaserStandard,CharlieGloumeauplaced Kate for6thAnnualGoldenRockRegatta! Kate Wooden Boat [email protected] wasbuiltonSt.KittsbyPhilip www.lepharebleu.com phone 4734442400 —Continued onnextpage Kate magazineand VHF CH16 hasbeen Mahalo Wooden . SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 goes to press, the fleet is in Australia, Compass All of the major regatta partners from 2010 have regatta partners from 2010 All of the major setting is magnificent. Skipper Loïck Peyron says, “The For more information visit www.lesvoilesdesaintbarth.com. 2011 New Start Line for Transcaraibes rally to Cuba will start The annual Trans-Caribbean For more information visit www.transcaraibes.com. World ARC 2012 Entry List Open yacht rally, is gear- World ARC, the round the world Twenty-nine yachts from 13 nations are currently par- The daily logs being uploaded onto the World ARC For more information attention to taking care of the boats, setting up top- care of the boats, setting attention to taking the water and ensuring everyonequality races on seem back on the island. It would enjoyed themselves and partners — racers, owners, spectators that everyone We are look- than pleased with the event. — were more in 2011.” seeing even more boats here ing forward to the St. they will be alongside already confirmed watch- Club in 2011, starting with the Barth’s Yacht Cointreau Mille. Taittinger and Rémy maker Richard will also be there. not exist, someone If the Voiles de Saint Barth did in place now and they would have to invent it. It is all sorts of boats. It have intelligently brought together all sailing together. is fascinating watching them so interesting can be Everything that makes sailing has a great future found here and the concept ahead of it.” pre-rally haulout from Saint Martin in 2011. Special packages will be available. and the entry list ing up for another circumnavigation has opened for the 2012 edition. World ARC 2012 will leave St. Lucia in January 2012, cruising across the World’s great oceans on a circumnavigation of the globe, returning to the Caribbean 16 months later. ticipating in the 2010 Rally, which set off from St. Lucia in January. Since then they have cruised into the Pacific via the Panama Canal, down to Ecuador and on to the Galapagos Islands and the Marquesas. During April and May, they cruised through the Marquesas, Tuamotos and Society Islands before departing from Bora Bora in mid-May heading towards the Cook Islands, Tonga, Fiji and Vanuatu. As this issue of regrouping for the leg across the top of Australia to Darwin and the start of the Indian Ocean stage. website provide insights into the experience — see www.worldcruising.com/worldarc2010/dailylogs.aspx. visit www.worldcruising.com/worldarc.aspx. The young Bequia Team raced their J/24 in the Team raced their J/24 The young Bequia of the Bequia Please contact Sylvester Simmons Round Barbados Race January’s Mount Gay Rum in association with Mount The Barbados Cruising Club Barbados started back The tradition of racing around Classes include Classics, Monohull Open (unlimited For more information visit Voiles de Saint Barth 2011 Dates Set The second edition of the Voiles de Saint Barth will The first Voiles de Saint Barth brought together some François says, “We would like to see this event become offered, and have managed to keep the boat sailing managed to keep the offered, and have the Bequia Rotary Club. and racing through in Regatta in Barbados Mount Gay Rum/Boatyard for the first and beat a boat in a regatta May this year later disqualified for rule infringement). time (although equip- very generously donated Other J/24 owners at the Mount Gay Rum/Boatyard ment in Barbados of some Bequia boat really is in need Regatta. The corporate other J/24s have found help now. Many these boats is sponsorship, as the cost of maintaining and team need bet- significant. But the Bequia boat to improve, and for ter support if they are to continue the Bequia Rotary Club others to benefit from what very kindly set in motion. or 458-3484 if you can Rotary Club at (784) 458-3412 help in any way. Tourism Authority is orga- Gay Rum and The Barbados race in Barbados on nizing a very special sailing January 21st, 2011. and continues to in the days of the trading schooners annually on January this day. The event will be held in honour of Errol 21st — a bank holiday in Barbados Minister and one of the Barrow, the island’s first Prime Cruising Club. founder members of The Barbados length) and Multihull Open (unlimited length). The aim is simple — the fastest time around Barbados. www.mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com. take place between April 4th and 9th, 2011, as confirmed by François Tolède and Luc Poupon, represent- ing St. Barth’s Yacht Club, organizers of the event. Following a well-received first edition this past April, this date on the Caribbean racing calendar is now well established, and the aim is to make it bigger. 30 magnificent yachts, including classics, maxis and racer-cruisers from all around the Caribbean and the United States. a fixture on the calendar and one of the must-attend events for skippers and owners. We paid particular

WORLD CRUISING CLUB Continued from previous page Continued from The 2010 rally has already achieved full capacity, For more information visit www.worldcruising.com/arc. Support Bequia Youth Sailing Renata Goodridge reports: In the early days of the The event runs from November 16th to December from November 16th to December The event runs visit www.vueltalahispaniola.com. For more information Happy 25th ARC-iversary! famous milestone year for the 2010 is a significant ARC will set off from Las Palmas de Gran Canaria to ARC will set off from Las Palmas To help cele- Rodney Bay, St. Lucia this November. World Cruising brate the occasion, event organizers of those who took part Club hope to hear from some especially from anyone in the historic first rally in 1986, who was under 16 years old when they sailed in ARC’86. They’d like to know your story, your memories of the ARC, and whether you still sail now as an adult. almost three months ahead of previous years. Commenting on the popularity of the 25th ARC, Managing Director of World Cruising Club, Andrew Bishop, said: “In its 25-year history, the ARC has become the ‘must-do’ event on the cruising calendar. However, interest in the ARC 2010 has been truly aston- ishing and we have had to start a waiting list already.” J/24 Windward Islands fleet, the Bequia Rotary Club made a fantastic gesture and bought a J/24 for young Bequians to sail, train on and race. However, there is no consistent maintenance funding for the boat. The young Bequia sailors have struggled over the years with support occasionally but generously — and at in the Dominican Republic …and anchorages in Haiti. beautiful Ile-à-Vache days. 1,300 nautical miles in 16 sailing 5th, covering of the for Cruisers, as the 25th edition Atlantic Rally SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 its immenseshorelineandmanyvirginpristineharborsbypassed. Puerto RicototheVirginIslands.TheDominicanRepublicisoverlooked,andallof destination butasameanstogettheMonaPassagetransitsouthshoreof one’s eastingalongthenorthshoreofDominicanRepublic,notasacruising Turks &CaicosandthengoingsoutheasttoLuperón.FromLuperónonemakes “thorny path”.ThatpathistakenbyislandhoppingthroughtheBahamasand south fromtheEastCoastofUSanddonottakeoffshoreroute the DominicanRepublic,isanexcellentexample.Thosecruisingboatsthatcome but usedmoreforstoppingpointsonthewayeast.Luperón,northshoreof western part,hasbeenforgotten.Thisareaisnotfrequentlycruisedasadestination is offlimits. crime thathaskeptsailorsaway.Cubaadifferentproblem:forUScitizens,it Haiti, Frenchspeaking.JamaicaisEnglishspeakingbuthashadboutsofhigh they arehardtonegotiatebecauseSpanishspeaking,orinthecaseof Caribbean andhavespaceleftover.However,ourperceptionofthoseislandsisthat Republic andHaiti)couldeasilyencompassvirtuallyeveryotherislandinthe 4 ofthisissue Caribbean is to? Simplyput,weacceptwhataretoldandhavebeenthattheEastern thus, exceptforthosesailorsarrivingfromacrosstheAtlantic,hardesttoget community thattheyaretheislandsmostvisited,wheninfactouteastand Trinidad inthesoutheastandincludeseverythingbetween. sailors wouldagreethattheCaribbeanextendsfromCubainnorthwestto Caribbean; soareCentralAmericancountriesthatbordertheCaribbeanSea.Most Jamaica, theCaymanIslands,PuertoRicoandSanBlasIslands. others includingtheABCislands:Aruba,CuraçaoandBonaire.Italsoincludes include CubaandHispaniola—thetwolargestinCaribbeanaswellmany Antilles (theVirgin,LeewardandWindwardIslands).Itencompassesislandsthat track, justonethathasbeensailedsomanytimes. able withthoseislandsthatusetheEnglishlanguage. from CanadaandtheUnitedStates,vastmajorityspeaksEnglishiscomfort- sand beachesandbeautifulcoves.Additionally,asmostsailorscomingsouthcome Grenada hasalwaysstirredourvisionsofpalmtreesandwarmweather,white the Caribbean”.ThelureofVirginIslands,Antiguaandpointssouthsuchas and headsfortheBritishVirginIslands.Manyrefertothistripas it isgenerallymeanttodenotetheEasternCaribbean PartOne: Easier Easting The resultisthatthewesternpartofCaribbean,andinparticularnorth- How isitthenthattheLesserAntillessodominatesailingspiritofcruising Mainland countriessuchasVenezuelaandColombiaarealsopartofthe The CaribbeanisactuallyamuchlargergeographiclocationthanjusttheLesser The CaribbeanisMuchLarger The resultofourmindsethasbeentocreatethe“beatentrack”.Itisnotabad The Caribbean1500yachtrallyleavestheChesapeakeBayinlatefallofeachyear When “theCaribbean”isdiscussedbycruisingsailorsandguideauthors, SOUTH COASTOFTHE DOMINICAN REPUBLIC the

place tocruiseintheCaribbean.Yetifyoulookatmaponpage Compass , you’llseethateitherCubaorHispaniola(theDominican THE FORGOTTENCARIBBEANBYFRANKVIRGINTINO : the LesserAntilles. “ coming southto to starta‘forgottenCaribbean’cruise Isla Saona,anationalpark,isanidyllicspot —Continuedonnextpage (November throughJune)wouldnotbetoomuch. depends onhowmuchdetailyouwantoutofthetrip,butanentirecruisingseason are allunique.Bestofall,youwillseeJamaicansmilesandsunsets. The BlueMountains,Jamaicancoffee,jerkporkandchickenRedStripeBeer culture andartavisitwillleaveyouwithimpressionsthatlastlifetime. experience thathasnoequalintheCaribbean.ItiscenterofCaribbean-African time. VisitingJamaica,“theislandofwoodandwater”asitwasoncecalled,isan and safe.Theislandhasnocars,electricityisequivalenttoavisitbackin Vache, HaitiisthebestexampleofHaitiancultureinasettingthatbothbeautiful sions, extraordinaryanchoragesandharbors,Latinmusicculture.Ile-à- experience thecurrentcontemporarycultures.TheDRisfilledwithinlandexcur- through threedifferentcoloniallenses— end ofJamaica.InsuchacruisewecanexperiencetheCaribbeananditsculture sea tocontendwith. north shore,youwillnotbeonaleeshoreandhavetheAtlanticswell through andallowyoutosailonaclosereachwhilegoingeast,butunlikethe not difficult.Othertimes,ifitisearlyinthetradewindseason,aNortherwillcome tradewinds withinathree-tofive-mileshadowofthecoast.Asresult,eastingis the mountaintopfallstosealevel(katabaticwind)andcausesastallof Republic. BecausetheDRissomountainous,aftersunsetheavycoldairfrom both beautifulandverysafe.AndthenyouhavethesouthcoastofDominican wind andcurrentinyourfavor.ToportistheislandofIle-à-Vache,Haiti,which safe oneaswell. Windward Passageisnormallyanenjoyablesailunderprevailingconditions,anda time tostagenavalvesselsthatworkatdruginterdiction.)Goingthroughthe Navassa isjustwestofthecornerHaiti.(TheUnitedStatesusesfrom base isatGuantánamothesoutheastcornerofCubaandUS-ownedisland is asafepassagewithoutneedtocallatanyharborinHaitiorCuba.TheUSnaval to portandCubastarboard,isusuallyareachbroadheadedsouth.It avoid allthatbeatingtowindward.TheWindwardPassage,whichcutsbetweenHaiti How muchtimetheentiretripfromeasternDRtowesternJamaicawouldtake Let’s takeacruisefromtheeasternendofDominicanRepublictowestern A West-BoundCruise However yougettotheNorthwestCaribbean,willnotbedisappointed. Once throughthePassage,tostarboardisJamaica—aneasylandfallwith We could,asanalternative,comethroughtheWindwardPassageonareachand 38) SHIP 35) AQUARIUS 34) SET 32) DIPPER 30) SOUTH 29) SEA 28) DENEB 27) LIT 25) DUBHE 24) AST 22) STAR 21) VEGA 20) ALTAIR 19) UP 17) ORB 15) ANTARES 11) ARIA 10) WISH 9) NIGHT 6) MIA 1) REGULUS ACROSS Crossword Solution

Spanish, FrenchandEnglish—aswell 14) BOARD 13) REPAID 12) ANKAA 8) AHAB 7) IS 6) MINOR 5) WHEEL 4) DIM 3) URSA 2) GAIA 1) ROAD DOWN 52) HER 51) DUST 50) TAURUS 49) COAL 48) NAVIGATE 47) LOL 44) BEARER 43) MINIAPP 40) CYGNUS 39) BINARY 46) MAID 45) REAR 44) BOAT 42) SIRIUS 41) UM 40) CORVIS 38) SPICA 37) BY 36) CAPELLA 33) BUOY 32) DOUBLE 31) HEMISPHERE 30) SOU 29) SEE 26) BATS 23) RED 22) STEER 20) ALDEBARAN 18) GEMINI 16) RUT SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21 It

From Boca Chica we head west to Las Salinas and Palmar de Ocoa (Province of Bani). and Palmar de Ocoa (Province we head west to Las Salinas From Boca Chica TO ISLA BEATA LAS SALINAS de Ocoa, six miles north of Las Salinas, are small Both Las Salinas and Palmar of Barahona (Province of Barahona). If we choose to sail Across the bay is the town Once we depart from Barahona we head down the bay to Isla Beata; a short sail of we head down the bay to Isla Beata; a short sail Once we depart from Barahona BAHIA DE LAS AGUILAS port of call in the DR: Bahia de las Aguilas (Province The next day we make our last but otherwise no one else is There are a few fishermen going about their business, In General there are a number of For those that have yet to cruise the Dominican Republic, through the country, see For detailed information on the DR relating to cruising to Ile-à-Vache, Haiti. Next month we will set sail from Bahia de las Aguilas colonial city. Santo Domingo is so large and so modern that we can also restock can also restock and so modern that we Santo Domingo is so large colonial city. down some as well as hunt one of the immense supermarkets our boat at any inland the fol- are inclined we can head parts we might need. If we replacement The DR has of Jarabacoa and Costanza. visit the mountain towns lowing day and over 10,000 with Pico Duarte being range in the Caribbean, the highest mountain waterfalls and with artists’ colonies, mountain towns are filled feet high. The beautiful panoramas. Beata. of the bay just west of Punta are located at the east side These two towns the which area is largely agricultural. The scenery and towns in the south of the DR, anchorages are beyond description. and a safe anchorage close to the Coast Guard station across the bay we can obtain inland to Lago Enriquillo. Lake Enriquillo is the largest then make our excursion Caribbean, and the lowest point on any ocean island. lake and lowest point in the is one of only a few saltwater lakes in the world inhabited by crocodiles. You will find lakes in the world inhabited by crocodiles. You will is one of only a few saltwater in about their business on Isla Cabritos, an island the vast majority of them going of other wildlife. the lake. There is also a plethora on our beam or aft of it. We can cut through the Beata just a few hours with the wind depth of about 12 feet. Once through the chan- Channel, which carries a controlling of corner of the island and drop anchor in ten feet nel we round up at the northwest is there are no other sailboats anchored here. The boat clear water. We wonder why finished for the day. We watch the sunset to the west still and the fishermen have and call it a day. a two-hour sail north of Isla Beata. The Bay of Eagles of Perdenales). It is less than roads, homes or hotels. You is a bay of approximately five miles’ span. There are no anchor will drop in clear, clear will see only a white sand beach — and miles of it. Our tradewind conditions. water and we will be protected from wind and sea in normal the bay we can dinghy to the there. After we have anchored in the northwest part of beach where we find no footsteps in the sand. to speak Spanish but if you do questions that should be addressed. You do not need I know of no reports of any speak a little, it is helpful. As far as safety is concerned, Some ports have had attack against a cruising sailboat in the Dominican Republic. where proper prevention was reported dinghy and outboard motor theft, but not as they are in mili- taken. The authorities are friendly but can appear intimidating push you for tips and gifts. tary uniform. Most are quite nice; a few will try to and can be accomplished in Clearing in and out of the DR is fairly straightforward any one of many ports in the country. at the free cruising guide, which can be easily downloaded www.dominicanrepubliccruisingguide.com. , the typical bachata In the morning we In the morning we to hail a Dominican to hail a Dominican fisherman to our boat and we purchased some beautiful fresh snapper for a price that we did not expect (pleasantly). When we returned to the boat we cooked the fresh fish with rice before watching a great sunset as we listened to music of the DR. head a few miles west and call at the Casa de Campo Marina. This will be our splurge on this part of the trip. After getting our slip Continued from previous page Continued from Day-trippers take tourists (from Bayahibe, just to the west) to the island to spend just to the west) to the tourists (from Bayahibe, Day-trippers take where we can visit the old From Boca Chica we can easily access Santo Domingo The DR’s South Coast The DR’s South AND CASA DE CAMPO ISLA SAONA Republic end of the Dominican anchored off of the southeastern We find ourselves BOCA CHICA AND INLAND TRIPS current with us as well as a The following morning we continue west. We have the Take a taste of 16th century Europe at Altos de Chavon the day on catamarans or powerboats. The sand on the beach is as white as any you sand on the beach is as or powerboats. The the day on catamarans anchored in ten turquoise and clear. We are Caribbean and the water will find in the corner of the island and will spend the day gunkholing feet of water at the northwest the pass between the mainland of the DR and the island Paso de Catuano, which is we at the eastern end, facing the Mona Passage, and of Saona. There are two cays and exploring. We were fortunate in the morning can spend our day there swimming at the island of Saona. The island is part of a national park reserve and is virgin: of a national park reserve of Saona. The island is part at the island island, you will the 42 square miles of the or infrastructure. Over there are no hotels shacks. small settlements and fishermen’s find only a few head for Boca Chica, a har- 20-knot easterly, which is the prevailing tradewind. We the capital of the Dominican bor located just a few miles east of Santo Domingo, easily by mid-afternoon. Once Republic. The sail is good and we make Boca Chica slip at the marina facilities, inside the harbor we can anchor or take a mooring or is a tourist town filled with which are new and very accommodating. Boca Chica sand beaches. Latin music and restaurants. There are miles of white — area, which is fashioned after assignment, we spend the rest of the day in the marina with beautiful views of Portofino, Italy. We will take a little lunch in the courtyard which is located within the harbor. The next morning we can go to Altos de Chavon, a replica of a 16th century the Casa de Campo complex. Altos de Chavon is the cobblestone streets we Mediterranean town, complete with Coliseum. As we walk views of the river and land- notice that we are elevated and that we have wonderful scapes below. SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 crevice atitssummitwhichthelocalscall Morgan’sArse. base andisrevered.OnProvidencia,above theCatholicChurch,isahillwithdeep head, Morgan’sHead,namedafterMorgan thepirate,whousedProvidenciaasa nating withtinybeaches.Ahalfhourlater, wewereatalargerockshapedlike down anequalnumberofstepsalongadirt trailwithrichgreenjunglegrowthalter- situated afort,withcoupleofcannons toprovethepoint.Thenweclamberedback Catalina toProvidenciafor11years,as it wastoobusyoverthere. many reasonsforthis.Oneoldmantold ushehadnotcrossedthebridgefrom their island.Again,everyonetoldushow theyadoredtheirislandsandwecouldsee where wecamefromanddetailsofourfamilyand,mostimportantlyhowliked the shoreonpavedconcretewalkway.Ateachhouse,wewerequestionedas to Isla Catalinawasspotlesslyclean,asProvidencia,andwebeganwalkingalong in partsandhasstepsrisingthemiddletoallowfishingdinghiespassunder. will getourpassportsreturnedthen. to acertainpersonandthatisonholidaysbuthemaybebacksoon we was. Shrugginghisshouldersthemantoldherstampforpassportsisissued ist officepersonnelwerealsoagreathelpastowheregoandwhatdo. daily basisifnecessary—wheretobuythis,fixthat.Theenthusiastictour- of knowledgeandincludedinhisfeeUS$100wasunlimitedinformation,on a telling uswecouldcollectourpassportslaterthatafternoon.Mr.Bushwasawealth man leftthemessoflightsandwesatinhisoffice.Oneminutelater,he was we walkedwithMr.BushtoImmigrationandasapproached,the cell phoneintowhichtheyshoutedasdroveby. kilometers ofroadaroundtheislandbutitseemedeveryonehadamotorcycleand a women walkedby,andIthankedtheirColombianbloodforthis.Thereareonly 17 white andeveryshadebetweendrovemyriadsofmotorcycles.Themostbeautiful street below.Brilliantlyclothedpeoplewithskintonesrangingfromcoalblackto lily on hisupstairsbalconywhereweenjoyedthecolourofProvidenciapassingin imaginary directions.Atall,quietgentleman,Mr.Bushbadeussitinrockingchairs some hadnoideawhereMr.Bushlivedbutasusual,intheThirdWorld,gave possibility offreshproduce.FinallywefoundMr.Bush.Everyonewantedtohelpand helping withthelights). and Immigrationwerediscussed. wires stretchingaroundthesquare.WorkceasedasourdesiresofclearingCustoms of menwithalargergroupadvisershadbeentryingtogetpowerthemaze decorative lightsforthesquarewelandedonwerealmostready.Foraweek,group flowed aswesurveyedoursurroundings.Christmaswascomingin14daysandthe grasses somewhereelse. Providencia, asinhabitantswhereverwesailoftentalkaboutgreener and howtheylovetheirislandwillneverleave.Thisisuniqueto countries andstill,IhavenoSpanish. spoken everywhere,tomyjoy.TenyearscruisinginSpanish-speaking us, “Goodmorning,”andthereweremany“Allrights”.Englishwas dinghy. ThefriendlypeopleofProvidenciagreetedus.Peoplecalledto them —betterlatethanneverandweshoweredslept. Yvonne saidandImurmuredagreement. grand sight.“Thisgivesmeagoodfeeling.Wewillbehereforwhile,” colourful houses. with alongpavedwalkalongitsshoreand,again,scattered,very bridge attheheadofbayonourwestsidewasCatalinaIsland, after aweekofbobbingabout.Connectedby500-metredecrepit houses andchurchesbythedozennearshore,anappealingsight around uswasthegreenofProvidencia’sjaggedhillswithscattered reef abounds. us weatherreports,toldtogocarefullybetweenthebeaconsas quency at1400Zulu),whotookourpositiontwiceadayandgave opposite). ThefolkfromtheNorthwestCaribbeanNet(6209fre- (USA system:redrightreturn,notlikemostoftheworld,whichis bowled along. the spectaculargreenpeaksofProvidenciaonourhorizonaswe The windgodagreedandwemade300milesintwodays,sighting the PanamaCanal,weheadedthroughbankstowardsProvidencia. made it,wasalongwaytothewest.Asweintendedpassthrough Isla Mujeres. sometimes onceaday,oftenmanytimesandmadeonly300milesawayfrom the current,sobacktosouthagain.Forfivedays,werepeatedthisprocess, Cuba. Afterafewhoursthistooseemedfutile,aswewerebeingpushednorthby the GulfStreamcurrentheldusback.Progresswasfartooslowsowetackedfor pen, weheadedouttoseawithpromiseofafavorableforecast,allsailsset. friends, saying,asonedoes,“wewillmeetagain”,notreallyknowingifthishap- Isla Mujeres,Mexico,foreightmonthsandwasitchingasail.Good-byeingallour At theendofwalkwayweclimbedhundreds ofstepsoverahillonwhichis There aremanywalksontheislandandwecrossedbridge,whichisfloating The passportswereanotherstory.AfterthreedaysYvonneaskedwhattheproblem Mr. Bushappearedwiththeportmasterandwesataroundfillingoutforms.Next, We wanderedalongturningleftupahill,passingthreesupermarketswiththe “Mr. Bushisthemanyouhavetosee,”Immigrationofficertoldus(ashewas “Do notlockyourdinghy;everythingissafehere”,onecried,andmore“Allrights”, To aperson,Providencianstellushowluckytheyaretobethere Next morningweheadedforthewharfandfoundadocktotie I foundaColombianflagandtheyellowquarantinehoisted Cold beerinonehand,binocularstheother,weabsorbed We weredeepinabayprotectedfromallbutwesterlywind.All Dropping allsail,wemotoredintoninefeetofwaterandtheanchorbit. Cutting insidetheleadlightwesailedbetweenredsandgreens Decision time.CubawasappealingbutnowtoofarawayandHonduras,ifwe SailingsouthtowardsHonduras,wemovedrapidlyalongthroughthewaterbut Australia 31 PPROVIDENCIA ISLA R , our43-footketch,hadbeenwaitingformeandmywifeYvonnein O V by BernieKatchor I D E N C I STEVE JOST A and seemleftoutofthebubblingcommunityspirit. Police andotherpublicservantsarefromColombiaitself,however,speaknoEnglish, brightly paintedhouses.Theislanderslovecolouronclothes,vehicles,and Bottom Hill.Peoplewalkingonthenarrowroadwavedatusandwepassedmany carry ourpackofwaterandlunch. We weretoclimbthehighestpeakonislandwithaguidewho,thankfully,would with sadresults. such asSanAndreas,haveallowedunlimitedimmigration,over-taxingresources own ahouse.Thishaskeptthepopulationatreasonable4,000.Toomanyislands, Colombian nationals,andsixmonthsisallyoucanstayontheislandevenif the tranquilwalks.ThegoverningbodyofProvidenciaisstrictonforeigners,even needs moretourists.Therearepleasanthotelsandresorts.Divingispopular,as nitely undesirable. from SanAndreas,anislandeveryProvidenciantolduswasdangerousanddefi- cially, apartfromforone’sownuse,butthiswillhappenoneday.Everythingcomes is frompirateandfishingstock,vegetablesfruitarenotgrowncommer- later andthenmaybeunavailableforaweek.Itwasexplainedthatthepopulation “supermarket” orstall,youshouldbuyitonthespot.Itmaynotbethereanhour taking adifferentroute.Wefoundthatifyouseefreshfruitorvegetablesin was calledMorgan’sCave,naturally. cliffs thatsweptdowntotinybeaches.Cavesabounded,somewithbatcolonies.One of theseinthedinghy.Coconuttreesbythousandsclungprecariouslytostony in acoma.Well-wisherscane-mailBernie [email protected]. to RaiateainthePacific,Yvonnesuffered acerebralembolismandasofthiswritingis treasures have.Govisit. remain asitisandnotdevelopintheheartbreaking waymanyotherone-timeisland the landwillbeprotectedfromdevelopers. Accordingly,IbelieveProvidenciawill the people.Theyaredeterminedtheirtreasure willnotbeoverrunbysettlersand Christmas wehavepropaneforsale,”the fillertoldme. no whole-mealflouruntilnextyear.”Thingsrunoutontheisland.“Thisis first “sold out”,Iaskedwhattimeshouldcallattheshoptobuyit.wastold,“Wehave cost. Surely,thisisthewayworldshouldbe. albeit withdifferentthreads,andourmastwillnotfall.“Buymeasoda,”was the then itcannotbedoneontheisland,”hetoldmegrimly.In20minutes,wasdone, gone butenjoyed. hours talkingtopeopleandlearningabouttheislandwhilewewaited.Another day the island.Iaskedtochangetapanditwasdonebottlefilled.Wespent safety precautionsthatUSAcitizensneed,couldnotbefilledwiththeequipment on passed manydelightfulbeachesathighspeed. have beendifficult. was enhancedbyoursailboat.Lunchapleasurewiththisvistabelow. reef. Belowustothenorthwestwasbaybetweentwoislandsandthisview blue-black oceanandinsidethemulti-colouredblues,greensbrownsofshallow indicated thereefedgeofcoralreefsthatencircleProvidencia.Beyonditwas be atthetop.Theviewallaroundwasspectacular.crispwhitelineofsurf walked on.Thetrailsteepenedandwepuffedonforanotherhour.Itwasathrillto and werestedoften.Aftertwohourscametosunlightpalmtreesas it ‘oldman’,letbemanbird’forhisgrandchildrentoo.” being pulledouttoprovethe“real”nameandsaid,“Yvonne,hisgrandfathercalled Man Bird.“Thatisamangrovecuckoo,”mywife,birdspecialist,corrected. pointed outbirdsandpointsofinterest.HegavethelocalnamessuchasOld All arounduswasthegreenofProvidencia’sjaggedhills…’ ‘We weredeepinabayprotectedfromallbutwesterlywind. Racism doesnotexistamongstthepeopleofProvidenciaandallgetalongwell.The With thefreshislandaironourfaces,wespedhalfwayaroundto One morningat0600wedinghiedtothewharfwheretwomotorcyclesawaitedus. Tourism onlyattracts14,000personsannually,mainlyfromColombia.Theisland There weremanyjobstodoaboardbutwefittedinalongwalkeachmorning Around thepointwerelushcoconuttree-coveredbeachesandlaterweexploredall Editor’s note:FriendsoftheKatchor’swill besadtolearnthatinJuly,whilesailing It isgoodthatthepeacefulnessandambience ofProvidenciaarebeingguardedby They madegreatwhole-mealbreadontheislandbutafterfourdaysofitbeing Mr. BushadvisedwhomtoseerethreadaStaylockfitting.“Ifhecannotdo it Every jobtookaday.WewenttogetpropanebutournewUSAbottle,withallthe Dinghying toafewplaceswefoundfinesnorkelingaroundtheislands. The motorbikescontinuedaroundtheislandtogetbackdinghyandwe The descenttookonlyanhourbutwithoutourstickstobalanceus,ittoowould The climbalongthedrycreekbedsurroundedbysemi-tropicaljunglewasarduous “No, itis‘oldmanbird’,”Josérepeated.Ihadtointerveneasthebirdbookwas Arriving atthetrail,wetookupourwalkingsticksandfollowedguidewho SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 of anotherseason The authorcelebratesthebest and ontoyourboat’ssmallscreen.Thebook swapisequallybroadranging. series boxsets,Erika’sistheonlyexcuse to dragyoureyesawayfromthescenery sics ( officer’s face. Customs officeinRoseauisharderthan locatingasmileonBVICustoms out process(providingyouarestayinglessthantwoweeks),eveniffindingthe and painless. and plentyofice.Serveinatallglass. gingembre research andtestingisourfavouritesunsettipple.Goon,tryitforyourself: know yourboatnamefortherestofseason. by thealways-smilingladyatcheckoutwhoonlyneedstomeetyouonce manager NicholasGeorge,forwhomnothingistoomuchtrouble,andtypified in theCaribbeanbutit’sawinnerpurelybecauseofitsstaff.Ledsuperblyby job. Hisknowledgeofeverythingfromislandbotanytothebesthikesand guide andOctaviusLeguy(betterknownasSeacat)isyourbestmanforthe We loveit. bimini whenwesail,andyetitscleanlinesstillstopitfromlookinglikeatent. Bequia Matched onlybyHairounGoldinSt.Vincent&theGrenadines. regular butsafebigwavesandshadynookstorecoverneverfailplease. some verylargestarfishcompletethepicture. to UnionIsland.Justacoupleofsleepybeachbars,fishingboatsand beach bar. the tranquilcrescentofChathamBay,youknowthisisdefinitionagood rum punchwithfreshnutmegandyousityourtoesinthesandgazingat lating alltheevidenceandarenowreadytopublish.Yes,startfanfare, lence’. Yourdedicatedcrewofthegoodship celebrate thoseplacesandpeoplethathaveachievedstandardsof‘parexcel- tour guideinDominica Pandora’s Octavius ‘Seacat’Leguy, From SpanishandFrencharthousefilms (e.g. DVD RentalandBookSwap:Erika’sMarine Services,UnionIsland But creditmustalsogotoDominicawiththeironestopcheck-inandcheck- It’s stilltheFrenchwhomakethiscruising“necessaryevil”mostefficient Customs andImmigration:AnyFrenchIsland A generousmeasureofMountGayRum,asluggingersyrup(the Shameless self-promotionadmitted,buthonestlythishasundergonerigorous Cocktail: ‘ThePandora’ To appreciatewhatDominicahastoofferyousimplycan’tdowithouta Boat BoyandTourGuide:‘Seacat’,Roseau,Dominica It’s huge(thelargestAvellhasevermade),itcleverlyfoldsbackintoamini- Best thingweboughtfortheboat:BiminifromGrenadinesSails, A lovelyhoppytangthatrefreshesasitshouldbutstillhassomebite. Beer: Stag,Grenada Still themostfunyoucanhaveinseawithoutaboatorsnorkel.The Beach (windward):MacaroniBeach,Mustique A perfectlycalm,white-edgedcrescentwithsee-throughwaterandaviewacross Beach (leeward):ParadiseBeach,Carriacou As thesunsetsonanotherseasonofcruisingislands,it’stimeagainto by NicolaCornwell SEASON 2009-2010 Breakfast atTiffany’s The Pandora Awards: award-winning from the French islands is best), topped up with pink grapefruit juice from theFrenchislandsisbest),toppedupwithpinkgrapefruitjuice

) through comedies to Hollywood’s latest offerings and TV ) throughcomediestoHollywood’slatestofferings andTV usually find.YoucanlocatethematIGAin the importedAmericanslicedofferingsthatyou sugar andartificialpreservativessoprevalentin these heavyloavesofgoodnessarefreethe runs averyclosesecond. taking inthescenery.Indispensable. he’ll takecareofyourwashingwhileyou’reout moorings, cangetyouhookedtotheinternetand for thetaskisinfectious.Plushehassecure sights isfantasticandhisgenuineenthusiasm Spiceland MallandFoodlandnearthelagoon. lobster onanoutdoorfire,andVanessamixesa by acarbattery,butafterSeckiehascookedyour Lovingly craftedandindividuallynumbered, Bread: DeBreadman,Grenada Meanwhile, FaustinAlexisbasedinPortsmouth It maybepartofachainandnotthebiggeststore Chandlery: BudgetMarine,Grenada break outthechampagne,people—hereare Bay, nut thatgoeswiththem. best barmanever),andthesaltedtoastedcoco- tional martinicocktailsmixedbyPatrick(the over yourboatinBritanniaBay,thesensa- Firefly istheplacetogoforsunsetview sharing itwiththefishandpelicans. from itall—justaslongyoudon’tmind is ahavenfortheyachtielookingtogetaway of beachbars,thislarge,greenhill-framedbay even amobilephonesignal,andjustcouple Bay, ion, thebestofbest. this season’s“PandoraAwards”,inouropin- Vanessa andSeckie’sBarisashackpowered Union Island Beach Bar:Sun&Eat,Chatham Basil’s isthefamousone,butuphill Bar: Firefly,Mustique With noroadstoit,coupledwithWiFior Union Island Anchorage forpeaceandquiet:Chatham Pandora Jean deFlorette havediligentlybeencol- —Continued onnextpage ) andslushyclas-

sirop de sirop de SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25

Saturday 09.00 - 13.00 for an inexpensive Chandlery On Curaçao there was a need Open Monday - Friday 08.30 - 17.30 That is how ABC MARINE was born. That is how without compromising quality and service. ALL YOU NEED FOR BOATING & FISHING YOU NEED FOR BOATING ALL Ph (+5999) 461 4476 Fax (+5999) 461 4925 Caracasbaaiweg 158 - Curaçao - Neth. Antilles Caracasbaaiweg 158 - Curaçao - Neth. [email protected] www.abcboatsnv.com [email protected] , a Hanse 470e Pandora Brian Benjamin takes food from his farm Restaurant (lunch): Golden Rock Inn, Newly restored with a blend of modern Rum: Dark - Mount Gay, Barbados; White and other locally sourced fresh ingredients and spins them into flavour sensations that leap from the plate to your grateful palate. Gingerland, Nevis design while preserving the original heritage means the setting, the view towards Montserrat and the lobster salad are well worth a stop on the tour of historic Gingerland. Barbados may not be on the regular cruisers’ - Rhum Bologne, Guadeloupe path, but its quality rum always is, and rightly so — the best dark all-rounder by far. But for white favourite, ’Ti Punch, only that made in Guadeloupe will do. Pandora every day except Sundays on VHF channel 68, and you can find out about AM Continued from previous page Continued from Yachtie service: Cruiser’s Net, Grenada 7:30 T-shirts: Fidel Productions, Carriacou Sandra Presig and her team take a variety of local art and carefully print it on Supermarket: L’Epicurean, St. John’s, Antigua The only serious contender worthy of competition with the awesome hypermarkets Restaurant (local): BB’s Crabback, St. George’s, Grenada Restaurant (dinner): Ti Kez La, Terre de Haut, les Saintes Restaurant (dinner): Ti Kez La, Terre de Haut, les Pierre Kauffman at theCombine a beachside location and chef who trained with Naturally beautiful place: Ti Tou Gorge, Dominica to pick just one place, but On an island blessed with spectacular beauty it’s hard Most underrated island: St. Vincent Caribbean, the truth and/ With an occasional reputation as the bad pirate of the Most amazing moments: seeing dolphins, humpback whales and manta rays Most amazing moments: seeing dolphins, humpback of a 30-knot squall nearA big thank-you to the dolphins that cheered us up in the middle Mechanic: Quick & Reliable Mechanical Services, Rodney Bay, St. Lucia Mechanic: Quick & Reliable Mechanical Services, very reasonable rate, Alwin Unfailingly prompt, polite, hard-working and with a Marina: Marigot Bay Marina, St. Lucia with the gorgeous The personal touch of Bob and his fabulous team, combined Location with a view: by the church, Mayreau the Catholic church, the At the top of the only road on the island, just above Local Food Store: Doris’ Fresh Foods, Bequia been missing but didn’tHer unnerving ability of knowing just what it is that you’ve Laundry: Maude’s Laundry, All Saints, Antigua Laundry: Maude’s Laundry, Maude stands literally and figuratively head and The peerless (and very tall) Internet Café: Bougainvilla Hotel, Union Island Internet Café: Bougainvilla but a bar with free WiFi and very comfy sofas. Whether Not really an internet café, Fuel Dock: B & C Fuels, Petite Martinique Fuel Dock: B & C Fuels, Petite pointing into the wind, coupled with quality fuel Easy access with a big dock For therapeutic rest and relaxation: Screws Spa, Wotten Waven, Dominica For therapeutic rest and hot sulphur springs, the rather unfortunately Capturing naturally occurring For afternoon of decadence: Nikki Beach Club, St. Barth’s of decadence: Nikki Beach For afternoon “St. Tropez de makes you feel more hedonistic of islands, nothing In this most Event: Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta Event: Antigua gathering of a regatta, this annual like a beauty parade than Possibly more Nicola Cornwell and Mike WIlkie have been living aboard quality T-shirts, creating by far the most wearable (and durable) T-shirts in the Caribbean. of the French islands of St. Martin and Martinique. Worth a taxi ride to load up, or a visit to Jolly Harbour where they have a second store. rum, and the Fortunately they do sell it in 4.5-litre casks. Savoy in London and the result is exquisitely beautiful food that tastes amazing, too. Savoy in London and the result is exquisitely beautiful Ti Tou Gorge is an enchanting watery grotto punctuated with occasional shafts of Ti Tou Gorge is an enchanting watery grotto punctuated at the end. Totally magical. brilliant sunlight that you swim through to a waterfall or the rumours overshadow the fact that the breadbasket of the southern Caribbean or the rumours overshadow the fact that the breadbasket and a fabulous Saturday is a stunning, verdant, lush island with breathtaking vistas ferry there from Bequia, you morning fruit and veg market. Even if you just take the mind. owe it to yourself to take a look and make up your own Guadeloupe, the humpbacks that put on a splashy show on the way to Nevis, and the mas- Guadeloupe, the humpbacks that put on a splashy show on Beach in Mustique. You were allsive manta ray that cruised the breaking surf at Macaroni wonderful. Augustin may not be imaginative with company names but he does live up to his. Augustin may not be imaginative with company names cat. After he finished, our generator was purring like a contented setting and the access to five-star resort facilities make this a winner again. setting and the access to five-star resort facilities make 360-degree view from the hill will give you as far as St. Vincent to the north, 360-degree view from the hill will give you as far it’s the view out east to the Grenada in the south and all bits in between. But Tobago Cays that is probably the most special. know it (like the excellent St. Vincent ginger yoghurt) and locating it on her tightlyknow it (like the excellent St. Vincent ginger yoghurt) go there when you are hungry! packed shelves makes Doris a winner again. Just don’t shoulders above the competition in a very crowded class. She says she’ll wash, class. She says she’ll wash, shoulders above the competition in a very crowded clothes will come back so fold and deliver but what she won’t say is that your that you’ll almost be embar- totally re-invigorated and immaculately presented rassed to sully them by wearing them. you’re wanting to check your e-mails at breakfast with a strong espresso or update e-mails at breakfast with a strong espresso or update you’re wanting to check your place is open seven days a week from early to late and facebook at Happy Hour, this get connected. is a very civilised location to (diesel and gasoline) at bargain prices make the stop well worth it. While you’re prices make the stop well worth it. While you’re (diesel and gasoline) at bargain the road for duty-free booze and you’ll be properly there, pop to Matthew’s down fuelled up for your travels. named Screws Spa diverts them into a cascading series of picturesque pools of them into a cascading series of picturesque pools named Screws Spa diverts where you wallow to your heart’s content and fin- varying degrees of temperature, splash. You’ll feel like a million dollars afterwards ish with an invigorating cold-pool Heaven. and will have only spent twenty! Carib” than Nikki Beach. Sip sexy cocktails, gorge on fresh sushi then lie back on sexy cocktails, gorge on fresh sushi then lie back Carib” than Nikki Beach. Sip beds soothed by the sounds of the mellow house DJ. the white linen-covered day extraordinary nautical design and painstaking maintenance is a visual feast for the maintenance is a visual nautical design and painstaking extraordinary historic south and the location of Antigua’s of some classy parties eyes. The addition 14th through diaries for next year — April well worth a date for your coast make this 19th, 2011. — everything from the weather to “Treasures of the Bilge” and who’s playing live music where. An invaluable free resource, the major credit of which should go to the ever- cheerful Jonathan of Island Water World. yacht, and cruising the islands for the past two seasons. Brian Benjamin of BB’s Crabback restaurant in Grenada is tickled to be chosen SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 World WarIIandcommissionedherintotheUSCoastGuardin1946. was usedtotrainGermanNavalCadets.TheUStookthevesselasawarprizeafter in Hamburg,Germany.AdolfHitlerchristenedherthe Hamilton. Thepresent-day in 1792,whichwasfoundedbyNevis-bornUSTreasurySecretary,Alexander vessels thatdatesbacktotheCoastGuard’sinceptionasRevenueCutterService racks andmadeourbeds.Therewere18bunksinroom,soit’sclosequarters.” a uniformbag.Onceonboard before weleft,”saysBareuther.“Everythinghadtobepackedintooneseabag,plus first tourflewtoSanJuanthedayaftertheyfinishedFinalExams. from the cruisemeantabreakfromclassroomstudiesandchancetolearnhands-on fellow thirdclasscadetsaswellanequalnumberoffirstorseniorcadets, with morethan100ofhis applications annually. pool ofmorethan2,000 300 candidatesfroma emy thatonlyacceptssome from thetuition-freeacad- required aftergraduation years ofobligatorydutyare the USCoastGuard.Five missioned asensignsinto engineering, andarecom- government tofiveareasof in majorsrangingfrom Bachelor ofSciencedegree from theCGAwitha training, cadetsgraduate years ofstudyandmilitary academies. Followingfour US’s fivefederalservice first yearattheCGA. who hasjustcompletedhis friends’,” saysBareuther, maybe seesomeofmyold home whereit’swarmand it’ll begoodtogetback Caribbean, Ithought‘great, mer cruisewouldbetothe and Cozumel. at Cartagena,Curaçao Puerto Rico,andstopped embarked fromSanJuan, mer trainingcruise,which weeks ofthevessel’ssum- Eagle Coast Guard’sTallShip, USVI, wasonboardthe resident ofSt.Thomas, class cadetandlifelong Rian Bareuther,athird with somefunmixedin. serious trainingalbeit London, Connecticut,it’s (CGA), basedinNew US CoastGuardAcademy time. But,forcadetsatthe stop, rum-swizzling,party opportunity foranon-

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BARNES DEAN ed. Iliketobeactiveandhands-on, dinghy, wasclimbinguptotheroyalswhensomethingneededbefixedoradjust- jibe,” saysBareuther.“ButwhatIlikedbest,andyoureallycan’tdoona Antigua SailingWeek,helpedmeknowwhattodo,howfillthesails,tackand function ofeachandeveryline. during amajorship’smaneuverandcadetsaretaskedwithlearningthename sail andfivemilesofrigging.Therearemorethan200linesthatneedtobehandled cadet trainingshipeversince. homeports outofNewLondon,hasservedasaseagoinggoodwillambassadorand Colombia. for aswim.Itwasprettycool.” Jones (CaptainEricC.Jones,commandingofficerofthe says Bareuther.“Somekidsdoveforconch,othersjustswamaround.EvenCaptain manning lifeboatstationsandmanoverboard,”saysBareuther. May 10th. just that.” to learnalotandhelppeoplestaysafeontheseas.” off andcanpartyanytime,”saysBareuther.“But,it’sagreatplaceifyoureallywant first yearclassesboardedfortheirtripuptheEasternseaboard. C-130 aircraftfortheflightbacktoConnecticutandotherhalfofthird Cozumel onJune11th.ThisiswhereBareuther’sgroupofcadetsoff-loadedontoa south coastofHaiti,pastJamaica,rightthroughtheCaymans,anddockedin Caribbean bond.” Championship regattahostedinCuraçaotwoyearsago.Itwasgreattomaintainthat knew myyoungersister,Nikki,fromwhenshesailedintheOptiNorthAmerican them intothemessforsomejuice.Iknewacoupleofthem,andseveral their parentsonboardfromCuraçaoYouthSailing.Igavethematourandthentook looking forme,”hesays.“WhenIcameup,therewereabout20Optimistsailorsand sprit whereitprovedtobeawild,orasBareuthercallsit,“prettycool”ride. chain, clippedontheirsafetyharnesses,andcontinuedwatchupbythebow- started pouring,justhowlingwithwindandrain,”Bareuthersays. Cartagena toCuraçao. It wasagreattime.” Bareuther. “Forexample,weplayedPanamaandUruguayinsocceronthebeach. military paradeandchurchservice,theninter-companysports,”says ed thebicentennialofindependencemanySouthAmericannations. Sudamerica, aseveral-months-longSouthAmericanTallShipsregattathatcelebrat- private vessels,arrivedinCartagenaonthemorningofMay19thaspartVela all theproficienciestheyaretolearnduringtheirtimeonboard. engineering. Cadetsallreceiveaseatrainingpacketatthestartofcruisewith towards finishingupallyoursign-offs,”saysBareuther,whoismajoringinelectrical rigger doingajibe.” sails duringprogressivewears,whichsaysBareuther,“isafancywordforsquare- cleaning theheads.Cadetscouldbecalledanytime,dayornight,tomaneuver patching, celestialnavigation,basicruddercommands,steering,scullerydutyand mand position.)Thismeantanythingfrompolishingthebrasstolearningpipe to haveknowledgeofalljobsshipboardbythetimetheygraduateandareinacom- onboard. (Thefirstclasscadetsshadowedtheofficers,withgoalbeingfor Training forthethirdclasscadetsmeantlearningwhatenlistedpersonneldid breakfast andmorningmusterondeckforannouncementsassignments. “Years ofsailingdinghies,andonbiggerboatsinregattaslikeRolex,BVI Training isnojoke.Forexample,cadetshandlemorethan20,000squarefeetof A typicaldayatsea,Bareuthertellsus,meantwaking6:30 Afterwards, itwastimetohoistthesailsforaten-dayvoyageCartagena, “WeanchoredoffCaboRojo(PuertoRico)andwereallallowedtogoswimming,” Then camesomefuncouchedinanotherlesson:anchoring. “Thefirst24hourswedidseveraldrillslikebasicdamagecontrol,firefighting, Hands-on trainingstartedtheminutecadetspulledoutofSanJuanon “The CoastGuardAcademyisn’tlikearegularcollegewhereyouhaveallsummer Eagle “IwasdownworkingbelowdeckswhenIgotacallthatthereweresomefolks He wasondaybreakdutywhen The twocadets,cladinlifejackets,wenttothefrontofvesselbyanchor “AnothercadetandIwereonthemidnighttofourwatchallofasuddenit Eagle “TherewereofficialfunctionslikerepresentingtheCoastGuardataconcert, Eagle “The trainingisallperfectlytimedsothatyouarealwaysbusyandworking pulledoutofCuraçaoonJune1st,sailednorthandthenwestalongthe experienceditsroughestweatherofthetripduringpassagefrom , alongwithadozenothermajestictallshipsandfanfareescortofofficial Eagle sailedintoCuraçaoforthreedays. Eagle providedalotofopportunitiestodo USCGC Eagle AM , followedby ) jumpedin SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27

to , in Alex , in Alex Henrietta Unicorn which was which was skipper and was skippered by Roots, in the second and Unicorn Lord Liganeer portrayed the now earns a living with now earns a living with Henrietta Terrasaw first movie role was that of of first movie role was that Unicorn Unicorn With over 35 years’ sailing experi- Port authorities weren’t keen on let- Port authorities Roots Back to Her how All of this is a long way from There was also a German pirate film,There was also a German pirate A Dream Comes True The third. The St. Lucia’s premier pirate, Barbados- born Sam Alleyne. ence from square-riggers to cargo/ passenger vessels it’s no surprise Sam ting our stinking star dock but even- ting our stinking much to the cook’s tually relented, What was left after delight no doubt. and explosions had the cockroaches away for pig food, to be shoveled chagrin of the owner, much to the forecast had just whose cash-flow of the melons. gone the way the in the first Pirates of the Caribbean film and Hailey’s television adaptation of his of his Hailey’s television adaptation best-selling book Sea filmed in the lesser-developed Islands off Georgia. an Englisha children’s travel series, and how- documentary on square-riggers; were onever, bigger and better things Pirates ofthe horizon: Disney and the 2010 shethe Caribbean trilogy, and in reality dat- played host to the popular ing show The Bachelor. her nine-man crew. Movies, sunset sunset her nine-man crew. Movies, battles cruises, treasure hunts, mock replaced and private charters have fruit. The the cargoes and fermenting Unicorn’s the slave ship both for pirate parts and upgrade her Unicorn in the early ’90s for around nine years, and the six Unicorn DOB: 1948 DOB: LOA: tonnes Length of Hull: Beam: Loaded Draft: Weight: 190 Engine: 28.7 metres (94 feet) Horsepower: Fuel Capacity: 2.7 metres (9 feet) Fresh Water Capacity: 45.1 meters (148 feet) Sail Area: 1,250 US gallons 6.7 metres (22 feet) Rigging: Created by: HP 335 rated 1,900 US gallons Caterpillar diesel, turbo-charged 7,362 square feet (including stun’sls) Helge Johansson in Sibbo, Finland 3 1/2 miles worth “I was captain of the His daughter isn’t keen on him though; she’s never forgiven him for the photograph His daughter isn’t keen on him though; she’s never forgiven “Are you okay, Mr. Depp?” asked a concerned director. I am, do you think I’m Depp got back on his feet, laughed and said: “Of course but before filming we “We made St. Lucia proud. The boat performed admirably, There are future plans to utilize the Affable St. Lucian Wellington (Wello) Lawrence is the current Affable St. Lucian Wellington (Wello) Lawrence is the “There were seven other local pirates who appeared in Pirates of the Caribbean: “There were seven other local pirates who appeared moon that lit up the whole What like? I hear you ask. Well, things like a miniature is the ease in which they One thing both of the pirate captains have in common Wello. “Lots of ‘arrs’ and “We ad-libbed in a pirate sort of way,” agreed Sam and I suppose you could say better by faaaaaaarrrrrrr! St. Lucia resident Bruce McDonald is an OGM Communications journalist. is a licensed Master Mariner. Sam described the Disney experience as “a childhood is a licensed Master Mariner. Sam described the Disney dream come true”. weeks of shooting the film were probably the most memorable,” said Sam. weeks of shooting the film were probably the most memorable,” guy, he mixed with she didn’t get of Johnny Depp! “He was a very down-to-earth where he steps off his sinking everyone,” said Sam about his pirate pal. In the scene boat onto the wooden dock, he tripped and fell. some sort of softie? I’m a pirate!” everything for accuracy,” had to take the top off the bar! A historian checked laughed Sam. for more roles in series such as The Bachelor filmed in St. Lucia earlier this year. for more roles in series such as The Bachelor filmed in has been for the past couple of years. His background ranges from Cunard Liners to has been for the past couple of years. His background to his predecessor, he also yacht deliveries and everything in between and, similar appeared in the Disney trilogy. World’s End,” said Wello with Dead Man’s Chest and in Pirates of the Caribbean: At took four and a half weeks. a smile. “We were on set for around six weeks and filming I saw things I never thought possible!” he said. applied to the of St. Vincent’s Wallilabou Bay. Then there was the varnish polish,” said Wello. give her an aged look. “It was applied similar to boot learned their lines — there weren’t any. we looked good and sound- ‘ayes’. It was more for effect than anything else but, hey, ed even better!” . He and a partner sailed south to the Unicorn Unicorn Unicorn an apparition. So, as it was eventually made landfall in the Unicorn Unicorn was for him. He purchased the hard-work- and you can go out with her on a Sunset Lyra Unicorn epics and all manner of television programmes. She’s , was originally built without an engine. Back then marine was originally built without an engine. Back then marine was minor, however, the same couldn’t be said for the , a class act in St. Lucia Lyra

Unicorn . The Unicorn

ferried cargoes around Finland. is a softwood schooner that was built in Finland in 1948, only then is a softwood schooner that was built in Finland in as a traditional trading brig and put her back to work. as a traditional trading brig and put her back to work. you want a date with St. Lucia’s biggest film star it can be arranged. She’syou want a date with St. Lucia’s biggest film star it can be appeared in films a big star at 148 feet long and weighing 190 tons but she suffers witha big star at 148 feet long and weighing 190 tons but Lyra

might not have had an engine but she did have an ancient semi-diesel might not have had an engine but she did have an Lyra

eventually sailed to the Canary Islands, then across the Atlantic to bread and butter, but some rotten luck was just around the corner. from Johansson back in 1971 and renamed her

Waiting to Take You Out! to Take You Waiting

St. Lucia’s Biggest Star is Star Biggest Lucia’s St. Lyra Unicorn Unicorn by Bruce McDonald Lyra By the time the wind picked up and the Melons exploded due to the rise in temperature and cockroaches multiplied to So the crew reluctantly set sail for Georgetown in Grand Cayman. When your luck’s The brig carried freight between Grand Cayman and the Spanish colonial port of What Rotten Luck A cargo of fruit (mainly bananas and melons), already past their sell-by date, was The story goes that one night at anchor, with the crew at dinner below, the ship The damage to Plain Sailing Unicorn Fourteen months later, he realized his dream when the The often frozen into the ice, During the long winters in this part of the world she was Her owner, Helge Johansson, definitely had an eye for boat design: the two-masted Her owner, Helge Johansson, definitely had an eye for IF Of course you are. She’s the The biblical proportions. The ship’s cook decided to put some distance between himself, the cockroaches, and the rest of the crew by climbing the mast to the main top. Here he stayed like a nesting seagull for the rest of the voyage. out it’s really out. As if murder threats and over-ripe fruit weren’t enough, along came some headwinds. The fruit soon went from ripe to rotten with some alarming consequences. The temperature under the hatches shot up as the ethylene gas, courtesy of the rotting bananas and melons, triggered a ripening of the rest of the cargo. Caymans things were a mess. The exploded cargo had now liquefied and gorged cockroaches infested the ship. Trujillo, Honduras. Here a dock and a warehouse were leased to collect and store goods. Times were good. Ferrying fresh fruits and all manner of cargoes was the Unicorn’s delivered to the ship. Jacques, for some reason, couldn’t say no to the cargo. It’s rumored that the shipper had threatened (promised is more likely) to murder him if he didn’t sail with the defective load. Barbados in the spring of 1973. After this it was off to the US East Coast before tramping for cargo down the islands. was rocked by an amidships collision. A sloshed captain (dressed in full evening wear) in a slowly sinking speedboat had made a large impact. Evidently drink had gotten the better of the captain and he thought the Solent in England, where she made an impact… a large one. merely an apparition, there was no need to go around it — simply go through it! launch, which was a complete loss — a sobering thought for some. took her to southern Sweden for a rebuild and a conversion. Old Jacques’ dream was took her to southern Sweden for a rebuild and a conversion. to rig powered cargo-winch for the heavy work, she was (and still is) a working girl. For 23 powered cargo-winch for the heavy work, she was (and summers a former US Air Force and however, things were about to change. Jacques Thiry, UNICEF photographer, decided the ing schooner has a beautiful sweeping sheer line. The distinct up-thrust at her bow schooner has a beautiful sweeping sheer line. The stern. The wooden decking sweeps down to amidships and then lazily up to the package. accentuates the curve and delivers the whole cosmetic engines were expensive (and hard to find) because replenishing the commercial ship- engines were expensive (and hard to find) because replenishing dire consequences further ping lost in WWII was a priority. This was to have some down the line. she was the Main photo: The Inset: St. Lucia’s Pirates of the Caribbean crew! Back row, left to right: Winston Inset: St. Lucia’s Pirates of the Caribbean crew! Back row, Lawrence, and Chiqo, Hilloron Pierre, Ronald Belizere, Captain Wellington is Brandon Herbert. Christopher Rameau. Seated is Wayne James, and kneeling on the All but James, Belizere and Rameau are still employed wind… still interested? Cruise, a Treasure Hunt (including a mock battle with those wicked British on Cruise, a Treasure Hunt (including a mock battle film star she has a past… Pigeon Island) or even a private date. However, like any and here it is: SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 charts. Fairtides! tide thefloodsfromwesttoeast.Timesgivenarelocal. and fromjustafteritsnadirtosoonrising,thetiderunswestward;i.e. From justafterthemoon’ssettingtoitsnadir,tiderunseastward; hour afterthemoonreachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward. running totheeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutan month, willhelpyoucalculatethetides. shows thetimeofmeridianpassage(orzenith)moonforthisANDnext Street, authorofStreet’sGuidesandcompilerImray-Iolairecharts,which make yourpassagefasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDon 0 2207 2126 2043 20 1957 19 1908 18 1816 17 1752 16 1627 15 1531 14 1435 13 1341 1247 12 1124(new) 11 1100 10 1005 9 0908 8 0810 7 0712 6 0614 5 0519 4 3 2 1 DATE TIME September For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolaire Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestarts Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewill w ExclusiveLinktoYachts forSale LatestCruisingNews&Notes 100sofBoatReviews Weather Forecasts Worldwide Marine 2Free Issuesof √ √ √ √ √ √ MERIDIAN PASSAGE SEPTEMBER &OCTOBER2010 BWS Online Resource w Blue Water Sailing Water Blue World Cruiser’s OF THEMOON ww. The World’s BestCruisingMagazine ’s CruisingClassiﬁeds ..bwsailing.co b 0 1413 1315 1219(new) 1124 10 1031 9 0938 8 0845 7 0751 6 0656 5 0600 4 3 2 1 October 0315 30 0504 0224 29 0408 0137 28 0052 27 0009 26 0000(full) 25 2328 24 2248 23 22 21 w s a i l i n magazine g 31 0637 0355 30 0545 0259 29 0451 0204 28 0111 27 0021 26 0000(full) 25 2334 24 2250 23 2207 22 2126 21 2046 20 2005 19 1923 18 1839 17 1751 16 1701 15 1607 14 1510 13 12 11 . c o m Bay —agoodplacetostopforlongrefreshing drinkoraswim. way) andeventuallyyoucomeoutonaroad thatwillleadyoutothebeachinLower bling, grabbingfortrees(thinkingallthe timeIwasgladdidnottrytocomeupthis and fullofslipperydeadleaves,sotakeit slow.Down,down,slipping,scram- there withredtape(thismaybetheonly timeIhavebeenthankfulforredtape). your wayover.Thetrailafterthatisquite clearandthefirstpartismarkedhere thousand razor-sharppricklesawayon your right.Takeafewstepsbackandfind yucca, butifyoustandattheedgeof yuccayoucanseethegoodtrailjustafew good viewbutthereisafairtrailofftothe right.Thisseemstoendinabigpatchof the redloggingtapesomeonemarkeditwithwillstillbethere.)Therereallyis no nizable becauseitlookslikeisheadingouttoanopenviewpoint.(Ifyouarelucky take thatone!Quiteabitfartherbackthereisanothertrailonyourleft;itrecog- the left.Itwasagoodpathbutpeteredoutcoupleofhundredyardsdown,sodon’t First weheadedbackthewaycameandthentookfirstfairlymajorpath on trails downtoLowerBay.IcanonlytellyouabouttheonemyfriendPaulandused. back totheharbour.Butifyoudon’twantbacktrack,Iamtoldtherearethree beats this. Bay arealmostdirectlybelow.St.Vincentistothenorth.NootherviewinBequia yachts, withoutatreeintheway.LowerBayandTonyGibbons(PrincessMargaret) sit hereandseethewholeofAdmiraltyBayspreadoutbelowyou,dottedwith is tocome. Admiralty Baybeforeyoureachthetop,butdon’ttaketoomuchnotice—view will bescramblinguprocksfromtimetotime.Yougetacoupleofglimpses of by wayofcompensationthelandscapeisdelightful—likeawildrockgarden. You just followthetrailupwards.Towardstopyoustartgettingintoyucca, but of thecenterhillthenclimbsrightintoit.Fromhereitishardtogowrong; on upwards. off totheleft;passthatbyandkeep There isawell-markedtrailthatgoes plain; headstraightupthemiddle. stony thickettoaroundedgrassy is nothard. the topyouneedtofindpath;it when yougetintothepricklystuffat sometimes justgoattracks,but uphill. Sometimesthereisatrail, and passroundthebackhead hidden house.Leaveitonyourleft and youwillcometoanother,rather ahead. Gointheirgeneraldirection see someutilitypolesandwires Turn lefthere.Upthehillyouwill see ahouseatthetoponyourright. turns todirtafterawhile.Youwill walk upwithoutmakingtoomuchofaruckussoyoudon’tdisturbtheresidents. where JohnnyOllivierrelives;sameplace.)Thisisaprivateroad,dosonotdriveup; side. (Ifyoutakeataxitothestartingpointaskdriverputoffatroad left. Itclimbsuphillandhasathree-barredwhitewoodenfencealongtheright-hand Farm) andtheairport;askdrivertoletyououtatWhalingMuseum. protect yourlegs. remove thetipsthosethatencroachedontopath.Otherwise,longtrousershelp fairly thin;asmallcutlassorevengoodbigpairofscissorswouldenableyouto patches ofsaw-edgedandsword-pointedyuccaplants.Theleaves,whilesharp,are Whaling andMaritimeMuseum.Thehiketakestwoorthreehoursroundtrip. easiest way.ThebestplacetostartisontheothersideofislandatBequia oculars mightbefuntohave,too. panorama ofAdmiraltyBay,sodon’tforgetyourcamera.Alightweightpairbin- is Peggy’sRock(alsocalledMountPeggy).Ahiketothispointoffersaspectacular bit totheeast)youwillseeabigbarerockstickingupclearofvegetation.That West Cay.Takeyourbinocularsandfocusaroundthehighestpoint.Inthatarea(a At firstitisclearlyacuttrail,thenturns intoadrystreambed.Itisverysteep If youaresmartwillreturnthesamewaycameupandcatchadollarvan Finally youclimbuptoapeakwithsomebigrocks.ThisisPeggy’sRock.Youcan As youclimbwillseealittlehillrightahead.Thepathstartsbittotheleft The pathtakesyouthrougha Walk tothetopofthisroad;it Start withyourbacktothemuseum,turnleftandtakefirstconcreteroadon From PortElizabethyoucancatchadollarvanheadingtoward“southside”(Paget The goingisjustchallengingenoughtobeinteresting.Towardsthetoparemany While youmightbeabletogetPeggy’sRockfromtheharbour,itisnot While anchoredinAdmiraltyBay,Bequia,scanthehilllinethatleadsdownto PEGGY’S ROCK: A DizzyingViewofBequia SAILORS’ HIKESBYCHRISDOYLE

The hikestartshere CHRIS DOYLE (2) DOYLE CHRIS SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29 Agent: Dealer: Dominica, WI Budget Marine, Doyle 767-448-2705 Ext Marine 18 Victoria Street, Roseau Fax: 767-448-7701 VHF 16 Sailmaker, SeaChoice Products Mercury Marine, Yanmar Marine [email protected] DOMINICA MARINE CENTER : Zar-Par FEATURES ENGINES: 2.5-350hp (2-Stroke & 4-Stroke) @ DUTY-FREE Prices Jamaica Cruising Guide Dominican Republic Republic Dominican Cruising Guide www.marinazarpar.com • Easy to carry 25% lighter than wooden-floor inflatables Boca Chica, Dominican Republic Boca Chica,

www.dominicanrepubliccruisingguide.com www.jamaicacruisingguide.com • Air filled floor makes kneeling or sitting extremely comfortable M Marina Marina Air Deck boats can be stowed most anywhere. Compliments of FREE CRUISING GUIDES CRUISING FREE Transport has never been easier – with no floor boards AVAILABLE: 6’ 7” (200cm) 46lb(21kg) 7’10” (240cm) 75lb(34kg) 8’10” (270cm) 86lb(39kg) 10’2” (310cm) 92lb(42kg) 11‘2“ (340cm) 99lb(45kg) Les The story depicts the The story depicts the Recall the saga of the What takes place during political, social and cultural happenings during the period 1998 to 2004. It is set in the fictitious island of St. Cecilia and revolves around a seem- ingly never-ending Conference with the objective “to make one more try to foster Caribbean unity and integration”. West Indies Federation? Well, Mr. Morgan has broached the issue again, even expanding the Conference participants to include the Dutch depen- dencies, the French Departments, the American territories, the British colonies, and also Haiti, Cuba and the Dominican Republic. The Foreign and Commonwealth Office in London, the office of the Prime Minister of Canada and the State Department in Washington are featured in the story too. the unusually long conference is, in local parlance, “jokey”. Mr. Morgan enliv- ens page after page of the book with characteristic Caribbean Communications, Caribbean Communications, . by an English-born Barbados citizen, by an English-born Barbados

by Peter Morgan was written (Paris, 1852) at the beginning of the book reminds, “…One can- BOOK REVIEW BY J. WYNNER BOOK REVIEW ALL TOGETHER… WHEN? TOGETHER… ALL Nonetheless, in tandem with the sideshows is a renewed call for Caribbean unity. “So, wha’ yuh bettin’ on de game now, Gookie?” said Puddle, eager to take his mind “Man Puddle, yuh is too foolish and easy ‘pon she, man. I tol’ yuh long since that A High Tide in the Caribbean “Man, that woman I got did gi’ me fit this mornin’ man — she does humbug me too Although out of print, this book is available at www.swaptree.com, on e-Bay and at “Man, Hardback, ease up a dite, man, an gi’ muh a scotch, nuh?” “Man Puddle, you is too big an’ ugly to fit yuh arse in there man. Me an’ Gookie wuz In another part of the ground, where the crowd is noted for its enthusiasm and exper- One chapter relates to a favourite Caribbean sport — a game so near and dear to One chapter relates to a favourite Caribbean sport — A High Tide in the Caribbean A High Tide in the Caribbean sphere of the Caribbean (in The author’s involvement in the political and social Mr. Morgan’s theme is telling us nothing new. However, he is saying something that needs reinforcing — that this search for Caribbean unity and integration will go on and on and on until we make it happen. For, as the quote from V. Schoelcher’s off the offending female now that he had achieved his territorial objective. “Yuh still suh assified to think them Orstralians gunna beat we? eh?”... “Man, hush yuh mout’, Puddle, yuh don’t see dey ‘bout to start the game? Man, I proud enuff to be here today. Cricket! Lovely cricket!” creature wud gi’ yuh trouble. She too don’t-carish. Yuh shoulda buss she arse ever since, man. A few good licks is all a woman like that does unerstan’.” bad, I tell yuh — I like to throw she out the house. Any woman goin’ to mek a man late fuh the game en’ woth a damn,” replied Puddle angrily but all the while gaining territory on the sitting area. book swaps. here early, man, where yuh bin all mornin’?” Colonies Françaises not help but think that they may well come together some day to form a distinct social body in the modern world… They might well unite in confederation, joined by a common interest, and possess a merchant fleet, an industry, arts and a literature all their own. That will not come about in a year, nor in two, nor perhaps in three centuries, but come about it some day shall, for it is natural that it be so.” tise in the finer points of the game, rather than for its elegance and sobriety, Puddle eased himself through a mass of pulsating humanity and tried to settle himself into a non-existent seat between Hardback and Gookie. both English and West Indian hearts — cricket. For West Indians, half the fun of both English and West Indian hearts — cricket. For attending a cricket match is taking in the animated “getting on” of the crowd, which Mr. Morgan skillfully weaves into his social commentary on gender relations: Barbados as a Senator, an elected member of the House of Assembly and Barbados as a Senator, an elected member of the to Canada, and as founding Government Minister, as Barbados High Commissioner clearly helped provide the Chairman of the Caribbean Tourism Research Centre) sideshows that suc- material for this book. Its strength lies in the many humorous of the Caribbean such as ceed in reflecting some of the cultural and social aspects a nightclub scene and a a wake in the country, a political street protest, picketing, fishing excursion. Barbados. Paperback, 280 pages. ISBN 976-8083024-7. Barbados. Paperback, 280 a wealth of knowledge and experience of West Indian Peter Morgan, who attained and in both tourism and politics in Barbados, culture through his participation the Caribbean archipelago. extensive travel throughout of northern participants and a West Indian flavour and British style, meshing a cast such as Tin Tot, Fahda, colourful set of regional characters with memorable names your face. You may even find Puddle, Gookie and Hardback, who will put smiles on humour will especially yourself laughing out loud. Those who appreciate British enjoy reading this book. SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 SEPTEMBER 2010 willing cohort,sodropthehookandenjoyit. off later. don’t letromanticsquallsknockyouoffcourse.Itwillpay let businessorpersonalworriesbackwindyourjib. projects leftoverfromlastmonthbeforethe23rd.Don’t life. you nutsifdon’tjustfocusonotheraspectsofyour you’ll knowwhattodo. 15th whenworkenthusiasmwillwane. your sign. before the23rdwhenworkingaspectmovesoutof started lastmonth.Getasmuchpossibledone life arest. month. Getofftheboatforawhile,goinlandandgive take timeofftooptimizeitandforgetyourworries. — somakethemostofthat. ness willpickupabitofbreezeduringthefirstweek the paingo. downright nasty.Flyyoursenseofhumorinsteadandlet you insistonhoistingthespinnakeroflovethingswillget speed inotheraspectsofyourlife. join itinthelastweek.Bearoffalittleandgatherboat Saturn isinLibra,whichyouropposite.Romancewill Ah, romance!Youwillbefeelinglustyandfinda Dedicate thefirstweektoseriousboatprojectsand Use thecreativewindinyoursailstofinishanyboat Creativity willbeabeatinchoppyseasandcouldmake It’s loveandlustgaloreforyouthismonth,Sailor— Devote yourenergiestobusinesscoursebeforethe Invest yourtimeintheboatprojectsyoushouldhave Shipboard romancewillbeapainintheaftforyouthis Your lovelifewillcontinuetoenjoyalee-boweffect,so Creativity willbereluctanttogetunderway,butbusi- Romance isinthedoldrumsforyouthismonthandif Business isstillexperiencingheadwindsforyouas WITHOUT IT LEAVE PORT SAGITTARIUS(23Nov-21Dec) CAPRICORN(22Dec-20Jan) CANCER AQUARIUS (21Jan-19Feb) SCORPIO(24Oct-22Nov) TAURUS(21Apr-21May) GEMINI(22May-21Jun) VIRGO(24Aug-23Sep) ARIES(21Mar-20Apr) PISCES (20Feb-20Mar) LIBRA(24Sep-23Oct) DON’T LEO (24Jul-23Aug) (22Jun-23Jul)

She gavenotaspeck. As Joedidallthework, Or outsunningondeck, Lounging inthecockpit would breakyourheart. And watchingthescene Before theycoulddepart, There wasworktodo Was goingtoturnJoe’shead. At thatpointintime Surely nothingtobesaid But nothingIcoulddo, You mightruetheday.” “Think thisthingover; So Iwantedtosay, Now Joewasmyfriend, Were comingintime. That heartacheandtrouble It wasnotsofine, But somethingthentoldme Now thingsarejustgreat!” And withFlolonggone She ismynewmate, He said,“ThisisKim, In afive-poundsack! Ten poundsofchest I hadtostandback: I couldn’tgetclose, With paintallaglow. I noticedlongnails To say“Hello,” When sheextendedherhand Joe wastakingtosea. What newequipment And Iwentovertosee Curiosity gotthebest He’d foundanewmate. And backsailedJoe; But wasnearthesamedate, It wasn’tmuchtime, So whyalltheclamour? But atrue,lovingwoman, And surelynotglamour, Now Flowasn’tglitter, Then hesailedaway. But heandFlosplit What causedtheday, I wasneverquitesure He hadonlytocall. Nothing wastoomuch, and coulddoitall: She wasafabulousmate Her namewasFlo. And hisFirstMate, Of myoldfriendJoe So thisisthesadstory We havereallybeentook. Then timeusuallyshows So wegohavealook, The grassmustseemgreener Are wejustcarriedaway? When wejumpthefence I couldneverreallysay. What makesusdoit

But notmyfriendJoe. Somehow shehadmadeit, But Iwasbeginningtoknow: It wastherightspot I hadtofindJoe! I hadtokeeplooking, But thesunwasgettinglow; She seemedtobealright There uponthesea. Dancing likeacork I couldfinallysee, Then thereshewas, I knowtheyhadvests!” “Why aren’ttheyhere? It seemedsuchauselessquest. I continuedmysearch; In suchashort,shorttime? How coulditallgo There wasjustnosign. But whenIgottothespot So Iforgotmyvacation. A friendwasinneed But Iknewhislocation. He hadnoraft And nowsickwithgrief. Tired ofhisnewfun That hehadhitareef; The messagewasbrief But thenthatwasall. I answeredquickly, And heputoutacall. He firedtheflares A reefwasintheway. Then rightbeforetheboat It wastheendofday; He wastiredandragged, How longhecouldendure. With hisnewTwinkiediet And Joewasunsure Flo wasnowgone And couldnowonlycry. But Joemadehischoice Till thewellrunsdry, We nevermissthewater And outwithagreatmeal. Then intothegalley And wasquiteideal, Flo hadstoodthatwatch,too, Outside ofthebed. His Cupcakecoulddonothing And muchunderfed; Joe wassoonoverworked Is doneinthehay. That whattheydobest And I’mheretosay Now “Twinkies”havevalue, That Kimcoulddowell. Looking goodwasall But soonbecameHell: The funhadbeengreat Would sooncollecthisdue. Not knowingthattheDevil With hisnew-foundcrew, Then Joesetsail

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You needamatelikeFlo. But tokeepaboatfloating Are therefortheshow, These “Twinkies”and“Cupcakes” Don’t letithappentoyou. But Joemadeamistake; And I’mone,too, Now menare Joe’s firstFirstMate. But toolatetocallFlo, I knewJoe’smistake, As Igatheredherin Who hadhandcraftedthem. She gavethankstothedoc Although inthewaytoswim, They wouldn’tlethersink, Or toknowhowswim?!? Who needsavest Implanted within, With somuchfoam It allbecameclear. Then upalongside Seen fromtherear, A puzzlingproblem l

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ILLUSTRATIONS BY PATRICIA TOMASIK PATRICIA BY ILLUSTRATIONS Compass Cruising Crossword ‘And a Star to Steer Her By’ ACROSS 1) Major 22 Across in Leo 6) ___placidus: a navigational 22 Across 9) Dark side of the third planet from the Sun 10) ‘When you ____ upon a 22 Across…’ 11) A solo vocal piece 15) Major 22 Across in Scorpio 17) Round object 19) Look this way to see the 22 Acrosses 20) Major 22 Across in Aquarius 21) Major 22 Across in Libra 22) Light in the sky that twinkles 24) Atlantic time zone (abbrev.) 25) Navigational star in the Big 32 Across 27) ‘The sky was ___ with stars’ 28) Major 22 Across in 40 Across 29) The Caribbean is one 30) Look this way to see18 Down 32) The Big ______is also called 3 Down Major Caribbean Compass 2010 34) Look for 22 Acrosses after sun___ © 35) ‘This is the dawning of the Age of ______’ 38) Vessel 39) ______22 Across: two stars orbiting around their common center of mass 40) Constellation also called The Swan 43) Small software application 44) 35 Across is The Water ______47) Text-message speak for “laugh out loud” 48) Follow a course 49) The ____ Sack: an area of the sky with no stars 50) Constellation also called The Bull 51) ’22 Across___’: a popular song composed

by Hoagy Carmichael (1927) SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 52) Fond term for a 38 Across

DOWN 1) In some cultures the Milky Way is seen as a ____ 2) In Greek mythology, the mother of Uranus 3) Little Bear: ____ 6 Down 4) Not bright 5) Used to steer a 38 Across 6) Not major 7) Exists 8) Captain obsessed with the white whale 12) Navigational 22 Across in the Phoenix constellation 13) Effort in learning the constellations will be ______many times over 14) 22 Across_____: opposite of port 16) Groove 18) Castor and Pollux are the two 22 Acrosses in ______20) Major 22 Across in the constellation of 50 Across 22) ‘And a 22 Across to _____ her 37 Down…’ — John Masefield, Sea Fever 23) The color of Arcturus 26) Something else that comes out at night 29) Do this better with a telescope jerry-toon 30) Small French coin 31) Half of the Earth 32) A 39 Across 22 Across is also called a ______22 Across 33) Floating navigational aid 36) Brightest 22 Across of Auriga, The Charioteer 37) ‘Dreamers steer __ the stars…” — Rush, The Pass 38) Bright 22 Across near 40 Down 40) Constellation The Crow 41) Murmur of indecision 42) The Dog Star 44) The constellation Argo depicts a ____ 45) A type of Commodore 46) In China, 21 Across is called The Weaving ____

Crossword Solution on page 20

We’re on the Web! Caribbean Compass www.caribbeancompass.com FREE On-line JERRY KING SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 Saxon pagantraditionwasthatJohnBarleycornmustdieahorribledeath,butthen Barleycorn andexploreshisownboutwithalcoholism.InterestingthattheAnglo- and Trafficin1972.OneofJackLondon’sautobiographicalessaysistitledJohn so thatmanymaylive.Insongform: sacrificing ofthebarley,whichispersonifiedinmythicalbeingJohnBarleycorn, September 25thiscalledHarvestHome—anancientpaganholidaycelebratingthe equinox asignaltoharvestandmaybebuynewcoat,forwinteriscoming!Infact the Earth’smagneticfield. ance ontheirsmallend,rabbitsdonotreciteShakespeare,thereisnolesseningof shadow (vampirescandothisonanyday).NOTHINGelsehappens.Eggsnotbal- stand upniceandstraightatnoonhappentobeontheequatoryouwillcastno southerly passage.Onthisdaythesunwillrisedueeastandsetwest.Ifyou south initsyearlynorth-southmotion,thisisthedaywhenithalfway It happensonthe22ndandmarksbeginningofAutumn.Assunmoves about 1900hours. very thinsliverofamoon. 0500 hours)thereshouldbeanicecombinationofMercurysittingjustunderthe month and1900later. John BarleycornMustDiebecameaquitepopularalbumtitleforSteveWinwood John Barleycornmustdie… And thesethreemenmadeasolemnvow, Their fortunesfortotry, There werethreemencameoutoftheWest, Just asthevernalequinoxwasasignaltostartplanting,sotooautumnal No, that’snotabandname*.Equinoxmeansequalnight,ordayandnight. Autumnal Equinox 23rd -FullMoon 22nd -AutumnalEquinox(seebelow) 10th -Moon,Venus,MarsandthebrightstarSpica(inVirgo)settingtogetherat 8th -NewMoon 7th -Ifyouarelucky,haveacleareastview,andabletogetupearly(about Sky EventsThisMonth SATURN -SetsaboutanhourbeforeVenus/Mars. JUPITER -Atitsbrightestthismonth!Risingintheeastatabout2100early MARS -RidingalongjusttotherightofVenusallmonth. EARTH -Tryingtotakeitsowntemperature. VENUS -Settingaround1900hoursallmonth. MERCURY -Amorning‘star’allmonth.Brightestlaterinthe The PlanetsinSeptember They growincolonies. also expelswastematter. with wavingtentaclesaroundasinglebodyopeningthattakesinnutrientsand produce snail-shapedshellsmadeofcalciumcarbonate. are calcareouszooplankton.Thismeansthattheyverytinyanimals diatoms boxes withtwocurvedsidesthatfittogetherlikeapillbox.Thesearecalled live onseagrassleaves,includingredandbrownalgae.Somealgaelooklikelittle on aplant. leaves. Theyarecalled and tinyanimalsthathavemadeahomeattachedtothesmoothsurfaceof you willseethattheyarefuzzyinsteadofsmooth.The‘fuzz’ismadeupalgae the seagrass.Seagrassleavesabsorbnutrients fromthemudofseafloorbut the smallanimalslikeseaurchins,crabs andshrimp,whichfindahomebeneath eraa currentsaresloweddownbythetangle ofleaves.Buttheymightbeeatenby covering likeatunic. backbone andgills.Theyeventuallysettle andswapthebackbonegillsfora Algae aresimpleunderwaterorganisms.Morethan100differenttypesofalgae What kindsoforganismslivethere?Let’slookattheminincreasingordersize. Seagrass leavesdonotalwayslookgreenandclean.Ifyoucloselyatthem, All oftheseorganismsareunlikelytobe knockedofftheseagrassbecausewat- DEEP SECRETS The Skyin September . Slightlylargerbutstillmicroscopicarethe a n d H e

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arepolyps FIGURE 1 FIGURE the tenwordsgiventhenunscrambleremainingletterstofindeleventhword. we musttakecarenottodamageit. grass environmentisimportanttothehealthofoceansanditsinhabitantsso seagrass togrowasitcanabsorbnutrientsfrommudarounditsroots.Thesea- the growthofalgalseaweedsthatsmotherseagrass.Cleanerwaterwillallow lected fromthebeachasitmakesgoodmulchforgardens. the deadandbrokenleavescantravelgreatdistances.Theseagrassbecol- grass inparticularfloatswellbecauseitscircularcross-sectionholdslotsofairso thesis sotheydieandbreakoff.Deadseagrassmaywashuponbeaches.Manatee sunlight fromreachingtheleaves.Theleavesthencan’tmakefoodbyphotosyn- mostly atthetopofleaveswheretheycangetmoresunlight,butprevent parasites buttheydocreatephysicalproblemsfortheseagrass.Theygather they alsoleaknutrientsthatcannourishtheepiphytes.Theepiphytesarenot Fall. That’sclose! ask whyIamlecturingtodayabouttheuniverse.Well…whatelseISTHERE?” incorporate whatIcaninfuturecolumns.AsProfessorIrwinCoreyoncesaid,“You not dropmealineandaskquestionthat’sbeenbuggingyouabouttheuniverse.I’ll you’d reallyliketohearabout,soinsteadofcontemplatinganythingthismonthwhy famous forbeingthefirststartoconclusivelyhaveextrasolarplanets. Right betweenthetoptwostarsandupalittleis51Pegasi.Thisstarsomewhat legs. ThelowerleftstarisactuallythefirstinAndromedaconstellation. right stararethehorse’shead.Iguessyou’reonyourownforwings,tailandback upper leftcornerrepresenttheforelegswhilestarscomingupfrom and mayhelpyoulocatethesquare.Thetwostringsofstarsliningupoff stars thatformthebodyofthismythicalwingedhorse.Jupiterisverybrightnow to theeast-northeast.Lookabouthalfwayupzenith.Youshouldseebright Hey, thatsoundsvaguelyfamiliar! by eatinghisbody(bread)ordrinkingblood(winebeer)manywillbesaved. Looking east-northeastonSeptember15that2100hours 10. TUNICATES 9. SUNLIGHT 8. SEAGRASS 7. NUTRIENTS 6. MICROSCOPIC 5. HYDROZOANS 4. FORAMINIFERA 3. EPIPHYTES 2. DIATOMS 1. BRYOZOANS The lettersof11wordsareshowninthechartbelow.Crossoffeach Missing WordPuzzle Excess nutrientswhichentertheseafromhumanactivityonshorewillpromote Scott Weltyistheauthorof * ActuallyafterwritingthisIdidfindabandonFacebookcalledAutumnEquinox: Ask CaptainScience:[email protected]. I’ve beenwritingthiscolumnforoverayearnow.PerhapsIkeepmissingsomething To ContemplateWhileHavingaGlassofWineonDeck August isagreattimetosortouttheGreatSquareofPegasus(seeFigure1).Look The GreatSquareofPegasus —Answer onpage45 SNCOIY NNCAOSI OS EATASS CI YH TFTRISRMTP RONTAYNMAR LPOCOPOERE TUNOEPSOAS NUUZ ANL I SI AOHDZRTE GK NNS CTI AI FBEDI HR SS I MG TheWhyBookofSailing, Burford Books,©2007. SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 !”) that is one of ! YOU’LL ! YOU’LL Below seem to have Which seems con- Enterprise He knows how to sail ENTERPRISE ! What’s your name?!” ! What’s your name?!” Enterprise downstairs (“ Then he “borrows” some Tom maintains that sailing and the fact that all ship’s , Sarah states her case. She , Sarah states her case. She With a moment’s reflection, one Enterprise Enterprise is spurred by her heart... which, of that tests her resolve. A survey would Enterprise, Enterprise “I ain’t lost her yet!” resembles the computer models. Also, Bill becomes a world of its own, bounded by its . “Where you from?! Where you staying?! You you staying?! You . “Where you from?! Where Enterprise “WELCOME TO QUIAQUIA!” he roars. “I’M TOM “I’M TOM TO QUIAQUIA!” he roars. “WELCOME The four at the table, Crab Pot regulars always Pot regulars always The four at the table, Crab Aboard the Shekima Creek. He Tom knows just such a place, at the bar. The four at the table fall silent, and notice four at the table fall silent, at the bar. The at the bar. on Tom, holding forth her eyes are fixed her. Then Tom sees OF THE SWIFT, MASTER ARE WE DRINKING?!” HAVE HEARD OF ME! WHAT story, I’ll turn him down Now that Tom is part of the some need to visit the And on. quietly speculate Tom’s hungry for anything new, They’ve got it wrong odds of getting her aboard. this time. and wants to learn all has heard the call of the sea As a first step, to that she can and feel the freedom. sail to a place that confirm her vision, she must nobody has heard of. Enterprise “Shekima Creek!” “A captain never does ship’s work!” “Authentic Experience!” Enterprise is an “Where we’re going, money doesn’t work!” “Where we’re going, money Enterprise “A wooden boat has to leak! Otherwise she’d sink!” Despite being in pretty good shape already (she belongs to a gym), the passage to Despite being in pretty good shape already (she belongs Sarah can afford the cost. It is the and a day-after-day pas- Great Iguana Island is over the horizon from everywhere, Tom Swift III, actually, third Such is one of her realities. Another is Tom Swift — They have good weather, a nice passage, and wait off the Creek for high tide. They have good weather, a nice passage, and wait extensive shoals offlying the Even for a shallower vessel with a working engine, the shared in the famous adventures of them all. Tom himself might be Sailorman shared in the famous adventures of them all. Tom except that neither he nor the surely more would have had actually heard Sailorman’s voice — had it been Tom’s, been said. the long sessions at the bilge Great Iguana begins hardening her body, particularly pump. money to settle his accounts well enough for him to leave and return. money to settle his accounts well enough for him to leave condemn her, to which Tom would reply, But Sarah, a total landlubber, her, which is good — the engine hasn’t run for years. has no eye for such details. It is the state of the is the test. Visions of Sailorman harden her will. sage from Quiaquia. The never imagined. She begins to horizon, full of sights, sounds, and sensations Sarah sail, begins to see the sky, the learn the motions and sounds of a small ship under world now, and enthusiasti- sea, and the set of the sails. Sarah is in Sailorman’s cally receptive. whom books have been writ- in a line of seriously famous role-model heroes about the ten, of which Sarah was previously unaware. Furthermore, names a charter fee to which she readily agrees. So he adds half the cost of provi- names a charter fee to which wants to start right away, that will cost more, some kind sioning, as well. Since she is for all of the provisioning – apparently his half of port fee. She winds up paying comments on the amount of beer and rum she is buying, already aboard. When she Tom replies, aboard the many distinguished vessels of that name. Tom and his many distinguished vessels of that name. Tom and work since then has been done by her. One might question this vacationing account work since then has been done by her. One might question And some of the work executive’s sanity, but once aboard, it was that or mutiny. Tom Swift in other matters, needed to be done. As for her recklessness in trusting her mind is in control. Yet Sarah has a practical and determined competence when the driving force evoked by readily sees that it follows, firmed by the state in which Sarah found the course, can explain anything. spectacularly rugged south Shekima Creek lies in a blown-out volcano crater at the end of Great Iguana. require good light, local invisible entrance and the maze of mangrove creeks within increases the challenge. knowledge, and keen pilotage. Sailing in significantly page —Continued on next

ALL ILLUSTRATIONS: BELA ALMEIDA

CARIBBEAN COMPASS FICTION CARIBBEAN

Sarah and Bill discovered it not for Sarah, there would be no legend of Sailorman. him while vacationing on the

WERE Sarah packs, pays, and runs. The voice roars on. There are four at a table in the Crab Pot when she comes in, and two Sarah has returned to the small island of Quiaquia in search of her The fruits of Sarah’s Search are where the soul of Sailorman is found. When they put Sailorman online he shot to stardom. Bill’s Blog is an Part 1 by Jim Hutchinson SEARCH SARAH’S SARAH’S hero. Even now she is hard at work. At her table in the flowered grounds of the Old Frangi overlooking beautiful It We Bay, her eyes are fixed on her screen. Her finger occasionally slides and bounces the touch pad. She doesn’t hear the tropical mockingbirds, is unaware of the grackles eating her banana bread, and is oblivious to the continuous roar of a voice out-shouting everyone at the Crab Pot, a hundred metres down the beach. Oblivious until the voice roars the words “SHEKIMA CREEK”. That is the name of Sailorman’s hideout! But neither Don Street nor Google can tell Sarah where it is. Sarah’s worldwide search of the web revealed Sailorman to be a serial hero, not just a one-timer. He has been thwarting evil in the world’s ports and on the Seven Seas for many years. A signature trait is his secrecy — nobody knows who did the deed. Sometimes the deed itself is unknown. Sarah’s long, tireless, dedicated, imaginative, and, in the end, passionate research presents a real-life superhero with qualities of character that compare with the best in the pantheon. amazing and fanciful retelling of Sailorman, single-handed and unarmed, defeating three armed pirates on the high seas using an unbelievable trick sailing maneuver. It is one of those things you forward to everybody on your list — “Hey, check this out!” The blog links to Voices From the Bush (which has a factual account of the incident) and to Sarah’s Search, which out-clicked them both. tropical island of Quiaquia. Bill overheard a man out of sight behind a bush telling his friend a most remarkable adventure. The friend had called him “Sailorman”. Sarah returned to the table in time to record the friend retelling the tale to another friend. SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34 Trident residence, inwhichSarahiskeenlyinterested. rest ofthe“deposit”.ThenBargivesarundownonwhoisin Quiaquia andataleofthepassageherewhileSarahfetches Tom, hundredmetres!” from TheEndoftheBeach,hemutters,“Hundredmetres, isn’t reallyabar.Atsmallpileofrockshundredmetres Here, thereisonlyBar’splace,TheEndoftheBeach...which thrown outofbarafterandstillhavesomeplacetogo. subtle changehasovercomehim.InQuiaquia,hecanget “Making ourdeposit!”Tomsaysatanearlynormalvolume.A takes acasehimself—he’llsendherbackfortherest. Beach. Tomloadsherwithacaseofrumandonebeer, in nauticalmatters,mustbeseenonlyasaneagernewcomer. maybe noteventhen.Andshemustseeminquisitiveexcept hint ofSailormancancomefromheruntilheisdiscovered, here aswell?Firmlyfixedatthetopofherstrategyisthatno here orjustoneofthem?Dotheyknowhimisheasecret harbor whereSailormanhides.Ishecaptainofthosewhoare competence nowthatshehasbeensmuggledintotheunknown again. Hermindhasalreadygraspedtheimportanceofdinghy Sailorman, shewantstoproveworthy–there’stheheartthing learning nicely,andwithdetermination.Whenshefinds quiet hour.”Gizmo,who’scomeinforacoldone,groansreply. — and went.NomentionofSailorman. — saidnorth,butthewindfavoredsouth.Phil, over ayearnow. Rolling Stone here someplace,maybeSmugglersCreek.MaxandMinnieon Tamiko ishere,ofcourse,andPeggySamantha.Also Bar takesSarah’sstoryatfacevalue.Tomgivesupdateson They landattheotherendofbeachfromTheEnd As atQuiaquia,Sarahrows,captaininthesternsheets.She’s “Swift’sback,”saysBar,lyinginhishammockatTheEndoftheBeach.“End S Continued frompreviouspage P.O. Box851,St.Vincent&theGrenadines, is wellearned. o Tom’sloudboastingtohiscrewastheysailintoReachBayunderHogIsland Tel: (784)458-7270Fax:457-9917 and E-mail: [email protected] Jezebel arestillwaitingfortheir“weatherwindow”...been Gadget’s WALLILABOU ANCHORAGE WALLILABOU BAYHOTEL . CaptainTonyisstillalive.Ian’ssaidtobe West Indies. (range limitedbythehills) VHFCh16&68 here.Samsailedoutseveraldaysago …SAHRA’S SEARCH ... Madeira CARIBEE BATIK-BOUTIQUE CREDIT CARDSACCEPTED WATER, ICE,SHOWERS BAR ANDRESTAURANT MOORING FACILITIES , came TOURS ARRANGED HAPPY HOUR5-6 PORT OFENTRY the shoppinglist.SarahhadbarelymetthemwhenBartellsTomtoleave.Soitis for thearduoushiketoHardBargaintomorrow,exceptbarefoot,andhascome by friendship. is mentioned.Baroneoffourwhoknowthefullstory,allsworntosecrecybound of cleversailing,badjudgment,andamazingluckgavehimthevictory.Nonethat recovering fromanarmedpirateattackonhislittlecutter, … and more! Well intotheevening,PeggyandSamanthacomein.isdressedasshewill Sam, whomighthavegonenorthorsouth,hadbeenseveralmonthsontheCreek Yacht CrimeReporting:Can WeBelieveAllRead? Read inNextMonth’s Some FavoriteCaribbeanAnchorages Bonaire’s Sea-LegStretchingHike kway” —rhymeswithBequia. locals do.Quiaquiaispronounced“kway- and Wallilaboutopronouncethenameas ing exoticplacessuchasCanouan,Mayreau, north basin,MahoBay. Lotus Samantha invitesherbyinthemorning— time forSarahtorowthecaptainhome. Author’s note:Itisanadvantagewhenvisit- Next month:PartTwo. , anchoredunderthecraterwallin Compass Monad . Acombination : SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35

My wife, Willa, and I love to take leftover rice and make Any additional rice over and above the amount Here’s how we make fried rice from last night’s left- Shrimp Fried Rice 2 Cups cooked rice per person 1 Tablespoon cooking oil 1 small onion, diced 1 stalk celery, diced 1 teaspoon sesame oil (optional) Red, yellow or green pepper, diced Cooked shrimp (or chicken) Salt and pepper or soy sauce to taste In a large frying pan over medium high heat, add white rice tossed with a vinaigrette dressing, diced white rice tossed with a vinaigrette dressing, diced chicken or shrimp, and freshly minced red pepper, green pepper and celery. The joyful colours will also make your stomach laugh with delight. delicious fried rice that varies with our imagination. needed for fried rice or rice salad is turned into a creamy pudding with the addition of raisins, cream, egg and cinnamon. over white rice: oil, diced onion and celery. Fry until onion is lightly brown, stirring occasionally. Add diced pep- pers and wilt; then add the cooked rice and stir to incorporate well. Continue to heat, adding sesame oil or more regular cooking oil if necessary. Taste, and season with salt and pepper. Add cooked shrimp or cooked chicken at this point. Mix well and continue to heat until ready to serve with soy sauce as a condiment. Bequia, St Vincent & the Grenadines Bequia, St Vincent [email protected] TradeWinds Cruise Club operate a fleet of catamarans across TradeWinds six destinations in the Caribbean. are the fastest growing charter company, We all inclusive, 7 days. TERM CHARTERS, operating CREW VACANCIES! email: [email protected] or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box 194BQ, Port Elizabeth, or by mail to: Bequia Marina, P.O.Box Tel. St Vincent +784 457 3407 Tel. St Maarten +599 5510550 +784 457 3407 Tel. St Vincent Tel. We prefer couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year. couples that are married OR have been living together for at least a year. prefer We The nature of the job is such that the better the understanding and teamwork between Captain and Chef the more successful your charters will be. Requirements: Captain with a Skipper’s licence. Chef/Hostess with a basic understanding of cooking. Dive master/ instructor for either the Captain and/or Chef is a plus. full training onsite in the Caribbean. offer We This is a FUN job with great earning potential. If you are willing to work hard and have a positive disposition to life this could be your DREAM job. Anyone with an interest is welcome to apply. If you would like more information about this job or send your CV to us, please use this email address: We are looking for crew, mainly teams in the form of a Captain and a Chef/Hostess. for crew, are looking We The primary difference between white and brown rice Wild rice is not really a true rice but in fact is a grass Varieties of quick-cooking rice, both white and Rice is such a great staple to have ready for first The truly nice thing about rice cooked and served as A delicious rice salad can be made from cooked is the bran coating that is found naturally on all rice. is the bran coating that is found naturally on all rice. Brown rice has had the coarser husk removed, leaving the bran in place giving the rice a light brown colour. Rice that is polished has had the high-fibre bran removed leaving a white polished product. One note of caution, brown rice has a shelf life of about six months and can become rancid if left longer than this. seed. It provides a completely different texture and taste from that of its distant cousins. Originally harvested from lakeshores and shallow wetlands as a wild uncul- tivated crop, it is now grown commercially in parts of North America. This almost black grain is coarse and nutty, requiring washing beforehand to remove any floating chaff. Although it needs longer to cook (about 45 minutes), the results are worth the effort. The nut- like flavour of wild rice can be used to advantage in soups and some salads. It is more expensive than most other grades of commercially produced rice. brown, have already been pre-cooked and dehydrated. Like so many pre-cooked products, much of the vita- mins and other benefits of the raw product are lost. course, entrée or dessert. a starch entrée is the fact that often there is rice left over. Many cooks deliberately plan to make enough for leftovers. ce Conviasa Grenada Ticket Ofﬁ by Ross Mavis Caracas, Havana, Buenos Aires, Madrid We can also book Hotels for you in Margarita with a choice of 3 Star or 5 Star rated properties. TwiceTi Weekly W to kl Porlamar P and l connect to d ights in

Reservations: Tel: (473) 439 4422 • [email protected]

6 Le Marquis Complex, Grand Anse, St George’s, GRENADA ights between The long grain variety produces grains that separate Both warmth and moisture are necessary for this Rice was brought to North America in the late 1600s It would be impossible to know how many people eat Rice is absolutely the perfect staple to have on GRENADA and TRINIDAD - two ﬂ each direction. Coming soon, Intra-Caribbean ﬂ easily when cooked. Some, such as East Indian easily when cooked. Some, such as East Indian Basmati rice, have a sweet perfumed flavour. The short grain variety tends to be stickier when cooked. One of these short grain varieties is the Italian Arborio rice used in wonderfully creamy risottos. member of the grain family to flourish. It grows member of the grain family to flourish. It grows between two and six feet tall in wet lands and has a flower that produces the grain we enjoy today. The countries of India, Japan, China, Thailand, Burma, Indonesia and Bangladesh account for more than 90 percent of the world’s rice production. Today you can get many dozens of types of rice and some of the more popular varieties fall into several main commercial categories: Long grain, medium grain, short grain, white and brown plus wild rice. and quickly became a cash crop. It was introduced to and quickly became a cash crop. It was introduced to the Caribbean and South America by European colo- nists as well as African slaves in both South America and the Caribbean. rice today, but it certainly would be more than three rice today, but it certainly would be more than three billion. Rice is one of the most important staples eaten by humans in all parts of the world. This grain can be traced back to at least 3,000 BC. It is thought that India was its original home from where it quickly spread to other places in Asia. board. It is both easy to store and cook and versatile board. It is both easy to store and cook and versatile in how it can be served. RICE! VERSATILE VERSATILE NICE, NICE, NICE, NICE, SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 southwestcoastofIreland SailingQuarterly,pluscruisesintheGrenadines,Venezuelaand • “Streetwise1and2”givetipsthatappearedinthepopularvideo line-handlingskillseverysailorshouldknow.1hour • “StreetonKnots”demonstratestheessentialknotsand racingroundthebuoystocelebrateher80thbirthday.1hour • “AntiguaWeek’85”isthestoryofenginelessyawlIolaire fromIrelandtoAntiguaviatheCapeVerdes.2hours • “TransatlanticwithStreet”documentsasailingpassage describe ALLtheanchoragesinEasternCaribbean. places andhistory.Street’sGuidesaretheonlyonesthat piloting directions,plusinterestinganecdotesofpeople, Real sailorsuseStreet’sGuidesforinter-islandandharbor HURRICANE TIPS! JONAS BROWNE&HUBBARD(G’da.)Ltd. Hubbard’s The FoodFairhasitallandalotmore. or afineselectionofliquorandwine, or fruits,toiletries,householdgoods, products, meat,freshvegetables Whether it’scannedgoods,dairy conveniently locatedsupermarkets. best pricesinGrenadaatourtwo on thewidestselectionand Stock Up GOOD GUIDESARETIMELESS at all Island Waterworld stores and at Johnson's Hardware, at allIslandWaterworldstoresandJohnson's Hardware, Rocks don’tmove—oriftheydoareshownon DVDs availableatImray,KelvinHughes,Armchair Sailor/ marine tradeguideeveryyear,whichismuchmore saw theiradin infrastructure, virtuallyeveryislandputsoutafree to tellouradvertisersyou departments putoutafreeannualguideforbars, or fromwww.iUniverse.comandwww.seabooks.com up-to-date thananyguide;similarly,thetourist Full informationonDVDsatwww.street-iolaire.com ☛ information ontrackingandsecuringforastorm. up-to-date Imraycharts.Regardingmarine Bluewater Books, and www.street-iolaire.com. Bluewater Books,andwww.street-iolaire.com. With alltheseupdatesreadilyavailable, NEW! Street’s Guides and DVDs are available Street’s GuidesandDVDsareavailable Street’s guidesaretimeless.

Street’s videos, first made in 1985, Street’svideos,firstmadein1985, restaurants andhotels. REMEMBER are now back as DVDs. arenowbackasDVDs. Visit www.street-iolaire.com for a wealth of Visitwww.street-iolaire.comforawealthof Compass Tel: (473)444-4573 until 7:00pm Friday &Saturday 9 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday Grand Anse: Tel: (473)440-2588 1:00 pm Saturday until Friday until8:45pm 8 amto5:30pm Monday -Thursday The Carenage: ! Dear Dear CC charge theirwastewhereitwillaffectothervisitors.” to entertheTCMPwithhopethattheywillnotdis- at seriously.Boatswithoutholdingtanksarestillallowed yet inregardtoholdingtanks.Thematterisbeinglooked Lesroy Noel,whosays,“Noregulationsareinplaceas Dear Harry, Harry Rezzemini could directustoanappropriatesource? the additionalplumbing. our 1977boat(withtwoheads)withholdingtanksand spend thelargeamountsoftimeandmoneytoequip and wearetryingtodeterminewhethermustnow two- orthree-dayvisitssixseventimesperseason, penalties aretobeimposedfornon-compliance? pump-out facilitiesforboatsleavingtheCaysandwhat countries), whetherplansareinplacetoprovide as boatsjustarrivingintheCaribbeanfromdistant at largearetobemadeawareofthisregulation(such knowledge astohowitisbeenforced,boaters tion? Also,ifitistobeimplemented,doyouhaveany ing tanksforblackwatersewage. Tobago Caysmustbeequippedwith,andusing,hold- menting arequirementthatallboatsenteringthe St. Vincent&theGrenadineswasconsideringimple- aware throughanarticleinyourgreatpublicationthat Just beforeweleftfortheStatesinAprilbecame Dear Yacht Stillus Sally O’Regan Thank you, for usall. you payonlyforthedayandleaveinevening? Sandy Islandareyouallowedtostaythenight?Ordo come outandcollect? At presentIseemonlytohearrumblingrumours. that havebeenputdownoffSandyIsland,Carriacou? ple, theexactproposedratesfornewmoorings be abletoinformnotonlyme,butallotheryachtspeo- in theAugustissueof boats canbeseeninthepark.Cruisers nowcannot ing buoysinSandyIsland.Andnow,only oneortwo private boatswithchildren,families,using themoor- tected anchorage. full ofmosquitoes.Hillsboroughisnot acalmpro- ers inCarriacou.TyrellBayisovercrowded, noisy,and have plasticsorcansinnature. are playingthere,andbecausewefindthis ashameto the beachesanytimewecouldbecauseourchildren months withinthesamearea. different forcruisers,wholiketospendweeksor one ortwonightsinthepark.Butsituationisfar cruisers. Itisokayforcharterers,whowillspendonly to keeptheparkalive. be protected,andtochargetheusersisonlyway Area isaniceandfairinitiative.Theseareasneedto eco-region. IunderstandthatthenewMarineProtected hope theywillstopfishingturtlesinthissospecial seen somanyturtlenetsaroundSandyIsland,andI FFORUM RREADERS' We contacted Tobago Cays Marine Park manager We contactedTobagoCaysMarineParkmanager Thanks foryourhelp. If youdonothavesuchinformationperhaps We areregularvisitorstotheCays,usuallyspending Can youenlightenusastothestatusofthisregula- I ownasailboat,whichkeepatCarriacou,Grenada. Would begratefulifthesepointscouldclarified And talkingofrumours,ifyoutakeamooringat Also howisthemoneytobepaid?Willsomeone Regarding thenewMarineProtectedAreaannounced Before thecollectionoffee,therewere tenor12 Sandy Islandwasthemostattractiveplace forcruis- Cruisers takegreatcareofenvironment;weclean But theUS$10pernightfeeisfartoomuchfor I spentallsummerinCarriacoulastyear.have O E Compass Compass Compass R A U D , , , M E R Compass S '

, wouldanyoneplease —Continuedonnextpage that arecurrentlystruggling. good businesses,businessesthathaveserved uswell, yachting industryinTrinidad.Iknowof severalvery that hasnowbeenreintroduced. there isreallynoexcusefortheburdensome redtape tury, andallofushavephonesoraccess tothem; every timetheymove.Wearelivingin the 21stcen- simple toallowyachtscallupandlet themknow location ofeveryforeignyachtatalltimes,itwouldbe pirogues farmorecapableofafasttriptothemainland. tions onTrinidadianboats,whichincludemanyfast worried aboutsmugglingtheymightputsimilarrestric- South Americadoesnotmakesense.Iftheywerereally vigilance onforeignyachtsbecauseoftheproximityto pirates, sotheideathatT&TCustomsneedsspecial anywhere nearVenezuelabecauseofthethreat Trinidad areslowandmorethanalittlescaredofgoing problems, sowhystartagain?Mostyachtsvisiting oped. AsfarasIknowthisdidnotleadtoanymajor applied formanyyearsastheyachtingindustrydevel- The law,whichhasbeenonthebooksforever,wasnot need toenforcethislaw,Ifindnoevidencesupportit. your boatinTrinidadwaters. permission fromthemeverytimeyouwanttomove have totakeyourpapersCustomsandgetstamped Compass spend sometimeexploringTrinidad’sanchorages. Compass article onTrinidad’sScotlandBayintheAugust Dear CC (473) 440-3814. Division, Grenada,[email protected] tact RolandBaldeo,MPACoodinator,Fisheries decided onforSandyIsland. to beadjusted. this willbecorrected.Someboundarymarkersarealso Sandy Islandwereplacedtooclosetoeachotherand first implemented. exodus ofyachtsfromSandyIslandwhenthefeewas ed increasedacceptanceofthefeefollowinginitial The wardens,whocomeouttocollectfees,havereport- community memberstoserveasSIOBMPAwardens. Government ofGrenadahashiredandtrainedtwo stay overnight. should beencouragedinMPAs.Yachtsareallowedto rates, orevenconsiderwhetherlong-termmoorage sider thesuggestionofhavingweekly/monthly/yearly new feestoproposetheCabinet.Theywillalsocon- discussing severalthings,includingcomingupwith members oftheotherMPAsinGrenadaareCarriacou im measure. stipulated bygovernment. Sandy Island,usingthefeeofUS$10ascurrently this boardbeginchargingforuseofthemooringsat private associations. organizations, GovernmentMinistries,para-stataland non-governmental organizations,community-based (SIOBMPA) isnowoverseenbyaboardrepresenting Sandy Island/OysterBedMarineProtectedArea Dear SallyandFred, Nemo Fred Dalle Best regards, would beashame!” about aUS$10fee,andhisanswerwas,“Oh,no!That about it.Heanswered,“Itisfree!”IsaidI’dheard the feewasimplemented,IaskedCustomsofficer December toJune? month? Orchargeonlyduringthepeakseason, A lower(muchlower!)packagefortwoweeksora paid atthesametimeduringclearinginprocess? current feeforcruisers?Asmall“onetime”fee,tobe cruisers haveleftCarriacou. more. Shopsandtouristoperatorslosemoneybecause only becausetheycannotaffordSandyIslandany- left forMartinique,othersTrinidadorVenezuela, families havebeenverydisappointedaboutthis;some anchorages. Pleaseunderstandthatmanycruising instead aroundUnionandPSV—freenice gone, andotherswillnotcometoCarriacou,staying because ofthefeeinSandyIsland,somethemare food, repairs,scubadiving,taxis,tours,etcetera.Now, stay heretwoorthreemonths,spendingmoneyon afford beinginSandyIsland. The sadthingisthiscomesataverybad timeforthe Furthermore, ifCustomsreallyneedstoknowthe While theCustomsprobablysincerelybelievethey Unfortunately, belowthearticleisanotefrom One mighthopethatZipporahGichumbi’spleasant Meanwhile, formoreinformationonSIOBMPAcon- We’ll announcewhenandifanewfeehasbeen The boardalsorealizesthatsomeofthemooringsat To supportthemanagementofprotectedarea, Grenada’s NationalMPACoordinatoradvisedthat Under aco-managementarrangement,thenew Don’t panicyet;theUS$10feeisunderreview. I thankyouforyourattention. During myin-clearingprocessatCustoms,before Would theMPAauthoritiespleasetrytoamend Summer istheseasonofcruisersinCarriacou.They Compass aboutTrinidadregulations.Onceagain,you mightdosomethingtoencourageyachts Asthisissueof , This, however,isaninter- Compass goestopress, SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 37

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UK SP1 2LP, Admiral Marine Ltd, 4 Barnack Centre, Blakey Rd, Salisbury, E-mail: [email protected] www.admiralyacht.com Web: +44 (0)1722 416106 Tel: Fax: +44 (0)1722 324455 Admiral Marine Limited is authorised & regulated by the Financial Services Authority Year-round insurance coverage As travel writer Pico Iyer says, “If the First World is not Pico Iyer says, “If the First As travel writer the great asymmetry “To do so, however, is to ignore letter in the August In response to Name Withheld’s Our first year in the Caribbean, three years ago, we As we approached the bay, sure enough, one of the Prior to this, we’d not had any first-hand experience As I mentioned, early on I felt out of my comfort zone Most recently, this past April, we stopped in Dominica Earlier, while we were in the process of anchoring, a In our own experience, we’ve found that going to a I hope that Name Withheld will give Portsmouth, between burning precious gas money and possibly precious gas money between burning some bozo and your boat to help out risking yourself keeping your up his boat properly, or who didn’t tie putting food and yourself safe and means of livelihood table that night…. on your family’s apt to the Third, we are sometimes invariably corrupting World, in conclusion: that the Third leap to the opposite we are the First. As tourists, moreover, fact, is hustling a variety of with importunities from so bombarded ourselves as beleagueredlocals… that we begin to regard as shameless predators. innocents and those we meet between tourist and local: that governs every meeting and they largely by circum- that we are there by choice in the spirit of pleasure, stance; that we are traveling they are mired in the adventure and romance, while to survive; and that we, more urgent business of trying enjoy a kind of unof- often courted by the government, which gives us all the ficial diplomatic immunity, of the perils of responsi- perks of authority and none their hopes on every bility, while they must stake potential transaction.” Sid Goodyear S/V Peripatetic Dear Compass, with Portsmouth, issue regarding their experience like to share our own expe- Dominica boat vendors, I’d riences with these vendors. bypassed Dominica due to the negative reputation of the local boat vendors which we’d read and heard about. By our second season, we’d learned that many of the problems of the past were being addressed, so we decided to stop in Portsmouth and check things out for ourselves. vendors flew out to meet us in his pirogue. I thought, “Here we go; I wonder what this is going to be all about.” We were warmly greeted and I called out, “We’re working with Martin!” (as suggested in the guide book). He acknowledged with a wave and a smile and returned to the bay. with assertive boat vendors and being a somewhat private individual, I was a bit outside my comfort zone when they approached us. Dave, however, readily engaged these men in conversation and we got to know them as individuals. That year we dealt with Martin, who always presented himself in a kindly and profes- sional manner. He served as our guide on a couple of island tours and his knowledge and love for his island shone through. Speaking of love of island, I’d have to say that every Dominican we’ve gotten to know expresses a deep affection and appreciation for their homeland — for good reason, because Dominica is truly an exceptional gem. interacting with boat vendors I did not know, primarily because I didn’t know what to expect. However, as we got into the habit of quickly getting on a first-name basis with each vendor and expressing an interest in them as individuals, our experiences were enriched. for a few days. As we approached the bay, Alexis came alongside in his pirogue, calling out to us, “Welcome to the most beautiful paradise in the Caribbean!” (the same kind of greeting one would expect to receive upon arriving at a tropical resort). We thanked him and invited him to stop by once we’d completed our anchoring. He gave us plenty of time and space to get settled in and then stopped by, telling us that he offered island tours. few other boat vendors came near by and after saying hello, I invited them to stop by once we were settled in. Again, they gave us plenty of space and time. After we were settled, Antonio, the fruit guy, stopped by to show us his produce. As we sat and chatted, he glanced out at one of the local “vendors” on a surf- board who seemed to be having a problem with the outgoing current. Antonio excused himself, drove out to make sure the other guy was not in trouble, and then came back to continue our conversation. I made a few purchases of fresh fruit. new place with some negative preconceived expecta- tions tends to taint our initial reactions, which for us have quickly proven unfounded. We’ve also found that in almost every case respect begets respect, hospitality begets hospitality. Most Caribbean boat vendors are honest and reputable entrepreneurs seeking to make a living providing services and information to visiting cruisers. But beyond that, they are respectable individuals with whom we’ve had the pleasure of engaging in many interesting and lively conversations for the sake of getting to know each other a bit more. Dominica another chance. On the other side of that coin, I hope that boat vendors of any island will continue to find the vast majority of cruisers coming to their islands do so with an appreciation for their services, information and hospitality. —Continued on next page , , questioning the ethics of boat boys claiming Compass Compass Continued from previous page Continued from It is true the new fast patrol boats are awaiting the In reference to Daniel Mead’s letter in August’s Sure, if it’s a matter of life or death, everyone should Editor’s note: We passed John’s letter on to Chris As an addendum, we have advised cruisers to ensure It strikes me as irresponsible to claim, on the basis As Mr. Doyle notes, there are hundreds of yacht In response to Chris Doyle’s letter in the August In response to Chris Doyle’s Trinidad is one of the few countries that have not Trinidad is one of the few It would be impossible to develop a land-based tour- to develop a land-based It would be impossible finishing of training of personnel, but there are other boats, and one of my sources is a couple who were stopped and questioned by the T&T coast guard between Trinidad and Tobago, so they are out there. My other source is hearsay, stories that have been going around Trinidad, and I cannot be sure whether they are true or not. Trinidad does now have an agreement with Grenada so that the TTCG can cross over into Grenada waters. Chris Doyle Ti Kanot Dear Compass assist and not count the cost. But if it’s a choice fees for helping yachts in distress, Mr. Mead glosses over one key fact, that boat boys are making their living assisting yachts, and thus they charge for their services in emergencies as well as non-emergencies. Think of it like Sea Tow, a US company which offers assistance to vessels in trouble for a fee. Sea Tow won’t save you for free, and any country’s coast guards aren’t working for free either: the taxpayers pay them. We cruisers, on the other hand, are out here for fun, and we are free to volunteer our assistance anywhere, any time and to anyone we please, and that’s a great thing. But boat boys are in the business of assistance for recompense, whether that assistance is delivering a loaf of bread or re-anchoring a drifting boat. I feel that if they help in an emergency, they should be compensated accordingly. Doyle for comment, which follows. Dear that their VHF radio is DSC enabled, fitted with a MMSI number and linked to their GPS. With this set-up, a push of a button can send a distress signal with your position and yacht particulars to all commercial, military and DSC-enabled vessels in your vicinity. This is very cheap insurance in the event of any security incident. Regards, John DeLong S/V Alouette of hearsay, without even calling the TTCG to ask what of hearsay, without even calling the TTCG to ask what their activities might be, to claim that there is “extra heat” applied. I would welcome confirmation that this is so — but absent some facts, Mr. Doyle’s “confi- dence” is nothing more than unfounded hope. crossings annually and the fact of no reported incidents since December 2009 is good news. But to sur- mise that this is due to activity on the part of the Trinidad & Tobago Coast Guard (TTCG) is unfounded and speculative. The unnamed “different sources” that Mr. Doyle “believes” need to be challenged. The additional ships that the TTCG has received are berthed next to me in Hart’s Cut Bay and sortie only very rarely (awaiting trained staff). The location of the incidents is well outside of Trinidad territorial waters and not subject to normal patrols. issue regarding Trinidad, there are points of fact that issue regarding Trinidad, there There have been six inci- cruisers need to be aware of. by pirogues or fishing ves- dents of yachts threatened in waters between Trinidad sels in the past two years numerous incidents in and Grenada (excluding Venezuelan waters to the west). Four of these involved pirogues with numerous men aboard. In three instances arms were identified and in two instances shots were fired on the yacht. There was one successful boarding. Of the four, three incidents occurred in international waters between 35 and 42 nautical miles north of the Boca de Monos (near the location of the Hibiscus oil platform). The last incident was in December 2009 (after a seven month hiatus). changed its Customs regulations in light of the mod- changed its Customs regulations high time these laws were ern yachting industry. It is made yacht-friendly. reviewed and modernized and Sincerely, Chris Doyle Ti Kanot Dear Compass, ist industry if visitors were subject to the same kind of visitors were subject to the ist industry if move around time they wanted to restrictions every marine tour- is exactly the same with the country. It exploring spent some wonderful times ism. I have certainly will anchorages. I almost most of Trinidad’s are do so again while these restrictions not bother to other cruisers I am sure there are many in place, and will still way. Foreign boat owners who feel the same my boat is there now. visit Trinidad to get work done; in place, visiting yachtspeo- But, with these regulations and relax in Trinidad in ple will not want to hang out is going to fully ben- the way they need to if Trinidad efit from the yachting industry. — SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 Dear S/V DaniellStorey Michelle Daniels and cruisersasoneofbridgebuildersasort. like tothinkoftherelationshipbetweenboatvendors munity representingcountriesfromaroundtheworld.I — (or arethey?). your head,wonderingwhattheirofficialsarethinking island isdifferentandsometimesyoucanonlyscratch ranging fromovernighttofourmonths.Sure,each least threetimes,anchoringsomewhereforperiods for thepastfouryears.Wehavevisitedeachislandat Dear S/V Neshuma Tony Grim money ashore:win-win. Make iteasyandcheaptovisitcruiserswillspend avoid thenot-so-good. your boatout”.Ithinkweshouldtakehisadviceand sounds likeheissaying,“putyourheartintoitorget ing throughtheanchorage,growingcrimerate).It their “character”(pirates,pollution,localboatsspeed- ment bytheCustomsandImmigrationofficers) friendly attitudetowardstheir“customs”(e.g.treat- and you,asavisitor,shouldmaintaincordial good andavoidthenot-so-good.” customs andthecharacterofisland.Ienjoy a friendlydispositionandIkeepanopenmindtothe visit otherislandsmyapproachiscordial,Imaintain says somethingonecanunderstand. truth inhisstatement.Sometimesapoliticianactually issue, Ifelttheoverwhelmingneedtopointout & TobagotoRonLlewellyn’sobservationsintheJuly on behalfoftheYachtServicesAssociationTrinidad popular opinion. geous ortoreinforceacommentthatringstruedespite submitting aletterinresponsetosomethingoutra- but it’sstillfun.Ihaveoftenentertainedtheideaof you cantellthedifferencebetweenrantingandreality peculiar interestintheReaders’Forum.Afterawhile Dear Trinidad Nan Hatch that thiswon’thappenovernight. government’s improvedefficiency,butwealsoknow We havegreathopesinTrinidadournewlyelected their personnelareundergoingtraininginEngland. club’s maintenanceworkshop? and reasonablypricedfuelhavefreeuseofa mined tofindfaultwitheverything. — andwerefusetogrovelvisitorswhoaredeter- pid, nordowethinkareperfect,butkeeptrying puts themacutabovetheirpeers.Trinisarenotstu- there aresomewhofeelthatconstantlycomplaining goods andexercisetheirdailymoansand,ofcourse, maintenance product. and devotedlyovermanyyearstoimproveouryacht- work andhiscountry.Donaldhasworkedsteadily not “unprofessional”or“childish”indefenseofhis Compass unwarranted andviciousattackintheAugustissueof pose ittakesallkinds.... These IputintheGY(GrottyYachty)category.sup- the firstbloomofyouth.Thenthereareothers. adventurers, whoareinterestingandusuallynotin comical boardingbytheT&TCoast Guardin of ourbestsailstheseasonandafter arather hurricane seasonhaul-out.Theovernight tripwasone Trinidad (forthefifthyearinarow) early Mayfor another wonderfulseasonsailingtheWindwards. that planinplace,wesettledbackand enjoyedyet offer touseherhouseduringtheproject. Andso,with Caribbean thatfall.Sealingthedealwas afriend’s a goodboatyardinNorthCarolina,and returntothe the ideatoheadbackStatesinMay2011,find the boatwasinTrinidad.Eventuallywecameupwith to managetheprojectwhilewewerehomeinOhioand cussed plansforsomemajorboatupgradesandhow under afullmoon? along atmorethansevenknotsonabeamreach could blameusfornotslowingdownwhenbarreling sunrise keptitfrombeingaperfect“10”.Butwho we madesuchgoodtimeandhadtoheave-tountil perfect passageupfromTrinidad.Onlythefactthat Court Bay,Grenada,andrevelinginourrecentnear- relaxed inthecockpit,enjoyingsunsetClarke’s Thecruisingcommunityistrulyaninternationalcom- We enjoyreadingthe My wifeandIhavebeencruisingtheLesserAntilles By theway,FrenchIslandshavefigureditout. In boat-speakheissayinghisislandthewayit Mr. Stollmeyerstated,“PerhapsitisbecausewhenI But aftertheresponsefromMr.DonaldStollmeyer Our Coastguardispresentlyunderstaffedas80of Where else,bytheway,canyoutakeonfreewater Yachties havetheirradionetwherethey“exchange” However, IwasincensedbyRobMinks’blistering, Most yachtiesvisitingourwatersarepleasant That planlastedrightupuntilwe returned to Anyway, asweenjoyedoursundownersdis- In lateJanuaryofthisyearmyhusbandandI Continued frompreviouspage Compass Compass Compass onmygoodfriendDonaldStollmeyer,whois , , , Compass eachmonth,with (land tortoises);andofcoursethemarine life,corals iguanas, lizardsandtreeboas,manicou, morocoy and ternsnearshore,feedingontinycoastal fish;then different animalslikepelicans,frigatebirds, boobies and animals.EverytimeIenjoynewencounters with place toenjoyCaribbeanlifestyleandpeople, nature turtles, butalsobecauseCarriacouis stillagreat wanted tosharemygreatexperiencewith them. well overadozenvisitorsfrommyown country), asI years Ihavealsobroughtotherpeoplewithme(infact mer andspendatleastfourweeks.Inthepasttwo secutive yearsnow.Icomeeveryyearduringthesum- Grenada andespeciallyCarriacouIslandforfourcon- Open lettertotheGrenadaBoardofTourism S/V FreeSpirit Kate Rushby other muchmorevisitedislands. find alotlessgoingoninSt.Vincentthansomeofthe VISITORS oftheseCaribbeanIslands,Ithinkyou’ll stuff. Whenyoulookatthecrimethat’sreallydoneto People soseldomtakethetimetomentiongood any negativeexperiencethey’vehadorheardabout. quick tojumponthebandwagonandharpabout recommend payingSt.Vincentavisit.Peoplearetoo beauty andagenuineCaribbeanexperience,Ihighly way theyarebackathome,giveitamiss.Forrugged required whentraveling,soifyoulikethingsjustthe discounts forboats. prices forstockingup.Somesupermarketsevenoffer ket too.Supermarketshoppingisgreat,withlow with avarietyhardtobeat.Thisgoesforthefishmar- places. Thevegetablemarketisacolourfulexperience directions anddishoutinformationaboutparticular People werehappytoanswerquestions,quickgive my youngsonandneverfeltthreatenedorvulnerable. riding busesandwalkingthestreetsofKingstownwith that St.Vincentisapoorisland.Ispentplentyoftime all thewaybackhome. fisherman jumpedintohisboatandkindlytowedus son whentheoutboardstartedgivingtrouble.Alocal — byalocalmanwedidn’tevenknowatthetime. delivered backtotheboat—witheverythinginside amount ofmoneyinit)withoutnoticing,anditwas husband haddroppedhiswallet(withasubstantial down tothebeach. all thewayalongwaterfrontrestaurantsandthen new boardwalkunderconstruction,whichstretches were wellmaintained.InYoungIslandCutthereisa information boardsatthebiggersitesandalltrails National Parkshasbuiltlittleofficeswithtoiletsand which isveryencouragingfortravelersandtourists. very friendlyandwelcoming. or hassled.TheVincentianswemetinpassingwereall taxis required.Atnotimedidweeverfeelthreatened most oftenbecomparedtothatinathemepark);no our waytothestartofallthesetrails(aridethatcan even walkedthroughMesopotamiaValley.Webused waterfalls, thevolcanoandVermontNaturetrails selves, withinremoteareasofSt.Vincent.Wehikedto this time,wedidalotofhiking,unguidedandbyour- being theretwoandahalfmonths.Overthecourseof I wasnotsosurewhattoexpectthistimeround. years ago,butbeingsuckedintotoday’snegativehype Vincent becauseofitsbadreputation. said ourfarewellsinBequia.TheywereallskippingSt. boating withfriendsintheGrenadinesforawhilebut spend twoweeksinSt.Vincent.Wehadbeenbuddy- Dear S/V Mirus Pat Ripple shark andbake. our firststopsinJanuarywillbeforeitherdoublesor don’t getusstartedonthefood!Sufficetosayoneof people who“get”myhusband’ssenseofhumor.And Windwards, andtheTrinidadiansareamongfew offered intheChaguaramasareaisunmatched positives faroutweightheissues.Therangeofservices challenges butsodomanyotherislands.Forus,the the cruisingcommunity.Yes,Trinidaddoeshaveits nately commonnegativeopinionsofTrinidadwithin updates andpicturesasrequested. far, workisprogressingasexpectedandwereceive all oftheboatprojectslinedupforoff-season.So week, afterinterviewingseveraltradespeople,wehad appreciated asreturningcustomers.So,withina modating folksatPeake’sboatyardandwerewarmly became theimpossibleaswemetupwithaccom- difficult toskipaseasoninTrinidad.The “home”. Rightthenandthereweknewitwouldbevery dock masterwavingatusandwelcomingback 6:30 Chaguaramas Bay,weheadedtotheCustomsdock.At I cometoCarriacoumainlybecauseof nesting sea My nameisMarjutValtanenandIhavevisited It doesdependonyourlevelof“home-comfort” Kingstown canseemalittlerough—let’snotforget On anotheroccasion,Iwasinthedinghywithmy We hadanincidentinYoungIslandCutwheremy We noticedalotofeffortbeingputintotheisland, Due tounforeseencircumstances,weendedup We hadenjoyedsometimeinSt.Vincentseveral In Aprilmyhusband,sonandIhadplannedto We offerourexperienceasacontrasttotheunfortu- AM Compass aswepassedCrewsInnMarina,noticedthe , —Continuedonpage45 with mecopiesofthephotos. person whocameintomyofficeonJuly 1st,andleft Carriacou. Ibelievethecomplainantto bethesame me, 27thJuly2010,citingillegalfishing activitiesin Dear Finland Marjut Valtanen Yours sincerely, dinary traveldestinationtoanyone. us toreturnandpromoteCarriacouasanextraor- beautiful natureisgone,alsogonearethereasonsfor special tomeandthosewhocamewithme.Whenthe this islandanditsrarewildlifethatmakesCarriacou tainly friendlypeople.Butitisthenaturalcharacterof nature, humansandanimalsis. how preciousandfragilethebalancebetweenhabitat, gasoline cost.Iguesswedonotyetappreciateenough that moneywasnottheirprimeconcern,giventhe with theiroutboardatfullthrottle.Onecanassume could bespeared. catching: allthatmatteredwaswhatevermoved sion thatthesefishershadn’taclueofwhattheywere ability ofthecoastalecosystem.Igotclearimpres- for thestateofcountry’sfisheriesandsustain- coastal searesourcesandaboutwhatisverynegative local usersaboutwhatisacceptabletotakeoutofthe spoke tothemwhileinthewater. “part-time fishing”,astheythemselvescalleditwhenI guys werethereinthesamearea,carryingontheir which Iattachhere. I couldnothelpbutfeelveryangryandsad. and killedafemalelobsterfullofeggsreadytospawn! cluster ofhundredseggsonherbelly!Hespeared ster andhandedoneofthemtomethereIsawthe He mayhaveunderstoodthatIwantedtobuythelob- during theclosedseason,accordingtoGrenada’slaw? and twolobstersinhisfloatingline. one oftheguyswhohadmanynon-ediblereeffishes decided toleave.Whileswimmingback,Iencountered fore, concernedaboutmyownsafetyandthefish,I while Iwastakingphotosofabeautifulfilefish;there- to mateandlaytheireggs. This isaveryshallowareawheremanyspeciescome started tospearfishclosewhereIwasswimming. marine life,whenthreeguyscameinbyspeedboatand swimming aroundforawhileandtakingphotosof Anse LaRocheinthenorthofCarriacou.Ihadbeen my lastday,inearlyJuly,whenIwassnorkelingnear tles andtourismbusinessflourishes. Barbados andTrinidadhavelongprotectedtheirtur- can recoverandfuturegenerationscouldseethemtoo. survive theirpresentdirestraits,sothatstocks endangered andweshouldprotectthem,helpthem any productmadeofendangeredanimalsorplants. buying. Inmostoftheircountriesitisillegaltobring for tourists,whodonotunderstandwhattheyare of Hillsborough.Thesecancausealotlegaltroubles endangered hawksbillseaturtlesforsaleonthestreet very disturbingthings,whichjustprovedthispoint. we donotknow,orknowof. because Ifeelthatweappreciateandcarelessforwhat showing tomanypeoplegoodphotographsofnature, family, aswellpubliclyinon-linemedia.Ibelieve ing myvisitsandsharedthesewithfriends and fish.Ihavetakenthousandsofphotographsdur- I writeinresponsetoane-mailletterforwarded to Most Caribbeanislandshavegreatbeachesandcer- Later ontheywerereportedlyseenspeedingaway I hopethatCarriacouofficialsdomoretoeducate I wastoldthattheverynextdaysameboatand I toldhimhadacameraandtooksomephotos, I hadtostopandaskhim,whyheiskillinglobsters After awhile,theseguyscametofishtoocloseme, Another casethatreallyshockedmehappenedon And mostimportantly,seaturtlesareglobally I wasverysadtoseejewelrymadeoutofcritically Unfortunately duringmyvisitthistimeIsawsome Compass , SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 as Compass , told of repelling boarders more than a hun- out of the hurricane zone. In 2004 Hurricane

not ). says, “Grenada’s growing sure and fast, for Ivan’s Triton Compass Compass Ivan’s blow is most assuredly in the past, but Hurricanes Bert Ivan’s blow is most assuredly in the past, but Hurricanes

Sailing Alone Around the World For all of the above, I understand that this is the price I have to pay to be in For all of the above, I understand that this is the price Grenada after Hurricane Ivan one. We get to avoid There are alternatives to Trinidad. Grenada is an excellent quoted in July’s The well-known cruising guide author Chris Doyle is If the wagon trains going from the Eastern US to California had always taken the US to California had always going from the Eastern If the wagon trains attacked The pirates who The poem in July’s No ‘one size fits all’ Many cruisers now leave their boats in the British Virgin Islands for hurricane Chaguaramas, Trinidad is a fantastic and marvelous resource for all cruising sail- I think if we want Chaguaramas, Trinidad to improve, we need first to applaud Chaguaramas, Trinidad. For the price, what do I get in return? First and most impor- Chaguaramas, Trinidad. For the price, what do I get in get the work I want done well tantly, I am out of the hurricane zone. Secondly, I can choices to suit my whim and and at a competitive price with the greatest number of that the quality of work has fancy. Some say that prices in Trinidad have risen and in fact it is highly subjective, gone down, but there is no proof for that statement and among us is not sensitive if not suspect. Prices usually always rise and what cruiser is competition for work to that? What keeps prices down is competition and nowhere work, that always depends on more fierce than in Chaguaramas. As to the quality of who you choose, no matter where you are. anchored will be clean and the making the trip to Trinidad. The water where I will be fellow sailors around to keep beaches will be white sand. There will be many of my become in recent years very me company. The entry process and the officials have to work on my boat. They are “user friendly”. And there are facilities that I can use but they are excellent not equal to those in Chaguaramas in sheer size or number, should I need help. That and there are sufficiently well-trained technicians available on Grenada. is a great deal of benefit and as a result everyone is high bad seamen. I will not take the “oil rig route” to get to Trinidad. I will not take the “oil rig route” bad seamen. the same been settled, as traveling through would never have same route, California shoot for the have resulted in a turkey territory each time would Native American the prob- and this will reduce significantly not follow the rhumb line “Indians”. I will oil rigs or close are there waiting at the encountered by them. If they ability of being not go out in a calm. Eight men do when the seas are reasonably by, it is usually it is blowing 20 knots. pirogue in six-foot seas when high-powered If you spend were Venezuelan. will time in Latino countries you they quickly come to realize that or in have a great respect for, fear of many cases, a tremendous sailors the sea. We are cruising can and the sea is our life. We we can outsmart pirates because and sail and understand wind solely current, whereas they rely on guns and high-horsepower one outboards. There has been this documented boarding on the crossing and it has shaken deeply. cruising community com- However, where do you find plete safety today as a cruiser? against There have been attacks Lucia, cruisers in Antigua, in St. in St. in Dominica, in Venezuela, in Vincent and most recently Simpson Bay, St. Martin (see report in last month’s Some of the attacks have resulted in death and in other cases inju- every location in the ry. There have been cases of reported theft in virtually new. Joshua Slocum, in his Caribbean. Crime against yachtsmen is not something book, dred years ago. the prettiest town in the saying that St. George’s, Grenada “has always been the nicest looking girls at the Caribbean”. I would agree that St. George’s is one of Certainly English Harbour, dance, but I cannot agree that only she is the prettiest. James Michener, the Antigua and Gustavia, St. Barth’s would be in the running. “The most beautiful in the famous American author, called St. Lucia’s Marigot Bay none other as pretty. But in Caribbean”. It seems when we are in love, there is of commercial work-harbor Grenada, the price to be paid for all the beauty and lack atmosphere is that the island is Ivan brought enormous amounts of damage. blow is in the past”. no one knows. What I or Harry are in the future and where they will make landfall, be, that I will not be where it know is that I want to be certain, or as certain as can will strike. season. There are also boats left in St. Maarten and in St. Lucia. Some even choose Venezuela. There are in fact many good choices and all the good reasons that go with those choices as to where to pass hurricane season. No one place is right for everyone. I have no commercial interest of any kind in Trinidad and do not recommend it for everyone, for as any location that can be chosen, it has its own shortcomings. However, I can choose it, without having to invalidate the other choices that can be made. It can be the right choice for me, but I do not have to prove it to be sure I am right about the fact that I am right. ors. For those who cruise the Caribbean, the Caribbean is “our sea” and the resources that exist support our lifestyle. I would not dismiss a resource as unique and excellent as Chaguaramas without careful thought and consideration, for while pirates are dangerous and commercial areas unpleasant, hurricanes are no less dangerous and unpleasant. In fact they impact many more lives and much more property in a single event, than any one isolated pirate attack. Many believe that another hurricane touching down on Grenada is unlikely. Perhaps they are right. But in the final analysis, one has to consider the cost-benefit ratio as it applies to our own personal tastes and preferences. their many years of commitment to the yachting industry and all of the investment that has been made. I have spoken to many of the people that work in the yachting industry in Trinidad and they feel as if they have been written off and condemned without sufficient cause. They are very aware of their shortcomings and the Yacht Services Association in Trinidad, YSATT, is working to implement the changes that the yachting community wants and needs. A public “stoning” is not what is needed to maintain and improve the resource that Chaguaramas is. What is needed is a clear understanding that pluses do not come without minuses, and that no one location is perfect, and that the invalidation of an entire industry in a given area is to throw out the “baby with the bathwater”. Frank Virgintino, Author Free Cruising Guides was boarded en route by Triton about his experience in Trinidad. He Compass , there was a letter regarding Chaguaramas, Trinidad , there was a letter regarding Letter of of Letter Month the Compass , “The good in Trinidad far outweighs the bad and I am happy , Compass Compass I will also have some work done on my boat from my never-ending “To Do” list of Follow the oil rigs and your route is predictable As to crossing from Grenada to Trinidad, I will take every precaution. The one that This will be my 15th consecutive year that I have brought my boat to Trinidad for This will be my 15th consecutive year that I have brought Over the last few months, it has become very much the vogue to “Trinidad bash”. vogue to “Trinidad bash”. Over the last few months, it has become very much the Between Peake’s Boat Yard, Power Boats and CrewsInn, the combined tonnage of Power Boats and CrewsInn, the combined tonnage Between Peake’s Boat Yard, Chaguaramas, Trinidad a support facility. In fact, it is unquestionably the larg- Chaguaramas, Trinidad is There is no question that Chaguaramas is a commercial harbor. As such and with is a commercial harbor. As such and with There is no question that Chaguaramas In the July issue of maintenance and repairs. I have no illusions about Chaguaramas and know what it is. I know that I may get a quirky Customs officer on entry who will speak tersely to me. I understand that the water will not be pristine in the harbor. And crossing from Grenada to Trinidad I will not forget that the Yacht to be here”. I think she sums it up succinctly. I never see mentioned is the most effective one and that is the method I will employ. Pirates are bullies but they are not particularly bright and they are, on the average, hurricane season. I want to say hello to Jesse James who has organized so many hurricane season. I want to say hello to Jesse James visit with my expat American wonderful trips for the cruising community. I want to I want to say hello to Fabian friend Billy Wray, delivery captain, rigger and surveyor. at Budget Marine and the men that work at the yard at Peake’s. I want to have lunch at Power Boats and eat dinner at Joe’s Italian restaurant. I also want to speak to Ron from the yacht “Name Withheld by Request” to find out why he was so negative in his letter that was posted in the July even complains that his wife is the victim of wolf whistles. Perhaps I am married to an ugly woman, for no one has ever whistled at her in Trinidad. However, like Chris Doyle asserts about St. George’s, Grenada, I think she is the prettiest one in town. When Ron says that “many people now will not even bother reporting incidents (to the Coast Guard), as they know nothing will be done”, I would like to know who the “many people” are and what type of “incidents” they endured. I do not know what type of medical problem keeps Ron “trapped” in Chaguaramas, but I agree with Don Stollmeyer of Power Boats when he says that he “read incredulously through the writer’s plethora of exaggerations, blatant inaccuracies and half-truths”. My experience does not match up to Ron’s comments and I agree with Ruth Lund who wrote in the June Venezuelan pirates on December 21st, 2009. This is the “price” I will pay to be in Chaguaramas. There are some offsets however. There always are. I will not react to the terse Customs officer and he will get tired of being terse and I will go back to my boat with my entrance papers in hand. Last year I told him “I was sorry” for a mis- take I made in not reporting to Customs at 4:00 in the morning when I arrived and he told me that “Surrey” was a town in England (actually it is a county). I smiled and waited for the verdict on my tardy reporting, after which he stamped my papers and I went on my way. Additionally I will not swim in the water in the harbor for I know that it is foul. I will go somewhere else to swim in the sea, or else swim in the pool. The “bashers” now find everything wrong with Trinidad. Immigration and Customs Immigration and Customs The “bashers” now find everything wrong with Trinidad. harbor is dirty! There is crime are rude! The Coast Guard does not answer calls! The to do work on the boat are in Trinidad! The workmen are no good and the prices Grenada to Trinidad and the high! Moreover a boat has been attacked crossing from once we fall out of love, we trip is dangerous, so why go? It is amazing to me how has that we did not quickly notice all of the shortcomings someone or someplace notice before. the marine hoists is well over 400 tons. Nowhere in the Caribbean, and indeed in 400 tons. Nowhere in the Caribbean, and indeed the marine hoists is well over will you find such facilities. In addition there are numer- many places in the world, and that have expertise in every aspect of marine repair ous shops and technicians in one central location. Competition to get work is fierce maintenance. They are all industry rates go. The rates are certainly much less than and prices are moderate as Caribbean in areas such in the States and markedly lower than in the northeastern chandleries (Budget as Antigua and St. Maarten. There are large and well-stocked by. Whatever is not in stock Marine, Peake’s and others) and parts are easy to come for “boats in transit”. They are can be brought in easily as there is no duty on parts and can be retrieved there simply sent to Customs, located at the CrewsInn Marina, Trinidad to cruise. One goes with little difficulty. One does not go to Chaguaramas, to get work done. there to store one’s boat for hurricane season and perhaps est support facility in the Caribbean. the presence of oil rigs and support craft, the harbor lacks what cruisers look for in support craft, the harbor lacks what cruisers look for the presence of oil rigs and not and white sand beaches. However all things are the Caribbean, i.e. clean water be compared. equal and thus should not as well as a poem. Both had negative commentary concerning the port. as well as a poem. Both had Dear SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 YAMAHA FFOR SALE GRENADA W.I. TRUE BLUE,ST.GEORGE’S, McIntyre Bros.Ltd. fully fendered,3generators,fullelectronics. TOURS &CRUISES-CARJEEPRENTAL Priced tosell$475,000•LocatedBVI 96’ UTILITYTUG Current ﬂ agship ofsalvagecompany. email: [email protected] O PHONE: (473)4443944/1555 appliances, whirlpooltub,hottub. granite countertops,allstainless 12v71 Detroits4.5:1reductions, Incredible interior,corkﬂ oors, Outboard Engines2HP-250HP Twin screwworkingvessel, [email protected] Duty-Free EnginesforYachts FAX: (473)4442899 with luxuriousinterior Parts -RepairsService R

S A L E Customs gentlemenanotherPresidente beer?” traveling backintimetoanidealizedday in1950.“Honey,”Isingupfromthegalley,“Cangetyouand to putonaprettysmileandletyourman dothetalking.NowwhenofficialscomeonboardIimaginemyself very excitedandappearstobewinning the game. we allwaveandthankthe“headman” as wewalkquicklypastthedominostable.Inoticethatgirlfriendis officer whowassupervisingtheyoungtypist. Withthecoveteddespachosinhandweheadfordoor.Outside, with thetranslations.Heseemsveryhappy withthat.RoyandBillforkoverthemoneytoMarinadeGuerra and ancientofficefurniture.Everyonehas funhavingtheirpicturestaken.IgiveFernando50pesosforhelping loudly reprimandedtwiceinthepasthour.Hebravelycompletesformsstriking eachkeyslowly,butsurely. doesn’t haveany“whiteout”incaseofmistakes.Nowonderheistakinghis time. I’vealreadyheardhimget fully typingourinformationintoaformonmanualtypewriter.Heisusingcarbon paperandyoucanbethe the forms.Fernandoexplainsthatthisisnewguyandhe’sabitslow.Whowouldn’t beslow?Theladiscare- find themenstandingaroundinofficeoppositetoCommandant’s,watching theyoungestofficerfillout officers, followedcloselybyFernando.Iwaitfortenminutesunderthetreethen decidetogooninsideaswell.I be freetoleavetheDRtomorrow,buttherewillafeeof$30perboat. strong arms.Sheesh.AtleastIcanchatwithFernando.FluentinEnglishand Greek, hereassuresmethatwe’ll the shadetree.The“headman”hascalledfordominotabletobebroughtout andhisgirlfriendnuzzlesbig Roy aboutthecaptainshortage,soheadsbackovertofindBillfrom can seeRoyhasabandonedthedinghy,climbeduponcementpierandiswalking towardsus.Fernandotells incredulous thatIdon’tknowthis. two Canadianboats—there’sanotherintheharbourshouldbepresentforthis process.Fernandoissomewhat despacho isnoproblem,butreally,hewonders,wherethecaptain?It’sonly properthatbothcaptainsofthe shocked asthebestEnglishI’veheardallweekflowsoutofthismouth.Fernando quicklyexplainsthatgettingthe one cheek.Fernandoarrivesatmybenchandrevealsthatheisthetranslator. Iampleasantlyandcompletely T-shirt andbluejeanslookstiffenoughtostandupallontheirown.Abigblack smear ofsomethinghighlightshis dawns onme:thefolkshereareexpectingsomeoneelse!Someonealottallerwithdeepervoice,perhaps. has arrivedandshe’ssittinginmychair.I’mrelegatedtothebenchalongwithyoungestofficer.Finallyit still standingtherewhentheyoungestMarinadeGuerramotionsmebackoutside.Bynow“headman’s”girlfriend four-year-old’s vocabulary.Neitherofusishappywiththeresultsthisconversation.HeleavesroomandI’m behind hisdeskandheasksmesomequestionsinSpanishwithaverycrankytone.Ianswerpleasantlymy nowhere andbynowthereareseveralyoungmenofundeterminablerankfollowingme.TheCommandantis Commandant. MySpanishisgettingme that Ishouldgoinsideandtalktothe shady treebesidetheoffice,heindicates of guyandoncehesettlesinundera quizzical lookscastinmydirection. while andIwonderaboutthesomewhat the feelingthatI’mgoingtobeherefora finds meaplasticchairtositon.Iget officers goinsidetotheoffices.Someone orders andtwoyoungMarinadeGuerra but impressiveenough.Hegivesafew form isalittletightinthemidsection, dress. Clean,pressedandnew,theuni- his handandtakeinthefullmilitary walks upandweareintroduced.Ishake man” isjustpullingupinacar.He despacho hand-shaking and Man Land. building. Wehaveforgottenthatthisis waits inthedinghywhileIwalkupto well withtheSpanishphrases,soRoy Marina deGuerraoffice.I’mdoingpretty pull upaginandtonicreadon. with alltheformstofilloutinAntiguaorareannoyedbyovertimechargesforSaturdayImmigrationDominica, send awomantodotheman’sjobanddealingwithofficialsisstrictlyManTerritory.So,gals,ifyouarefrustrated issue, andyes,dealingwithallthepaperworkfeesisdauntingattimes.ButinDominicanRepublicyoudon’t journey alongthesouthcoastofDominicanRepublichasmecultureshocked.Sure,speakingSpanishisan CRUISING INAMAN’SWORLD Michelle FlemingiscruisingtheCaribbean aboard No doubtaboutit,it’saman’sworldhere intheDR.Whenitcomestodealingwithofficials,gals,beprepared When heisfinishedwecelebratewithaphotoshoot.IfeellikeI’monmovieset withthatmanualtypewriter Captain RoyandBillarrivetheyareimmediatelyusheredintothe office bytwoMarinadeGuerra Now Iunderstand.Theissueisn’talackofcommunication;it’stestosterone. Noproblem,Itellhim. Soon, alongcomesoneoftheportworkers.Freshoutaspectacularlygrimyengineroom,hisformerlywhite The “headman”isatake-chargekind Off Igointomyfollywheremuch Men, men,andmoremachomen….AftertwoyearsofcruisingalongtheWindwardLeewardIslands,this ensues.I’mtoldthatthe“head holas andsaying WHAT’S ONMYMIND by MichelleFleming S/VBonanza. Guerra officersandFernando and CaptainRoyjoinedthetwoMarinade Below: EverythingwasfineonceCaptainBill Barahona. MaybeIshouldhavestayedinit… Left: Tyingupthedinghyatwharfin He saidthe national departurestampswithinthehour. and returnedthemwiththerequestedinter- of ourarrival.Hepickeduppassports official cameouttotheboatwithinminutes motor trekacrossthebayyesterday. in LasSalinas,wedidthe40-mile,five-hour get Immigrationclearanceoutofthecountry way outoftheDR.Findingitimpossibleto are inBarahona,anunexpectedstoponour them up. morning. Soundsgood,we’lljustgopick As wehavecometoexpect,theImmigration It’s March2010.Myhusband,Roy,andI The nextdayIheadoverwithRoytothe Voyageur C despachos . Igobacktomybenchunder wouldbereadyinthe SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 41 . COMBINATION by Keith Bowen Compass maga- . They are now in the Pacific. John Rowland profiled them in WHAT’S ON MY MIND WHAT’S Compass The ROAD DEADLY A Keith (“Taffy”) and Shirley Bowen cruised the Caribbean aboard the South African “The reason of corrosion is mostly not the material, so not the fault from the pro- In conclusion, for those of you who may, despite the foregoing, still consider invest- The huge concern, apart from the possibility of the failure of any link in the chain This being the case, it has become evident that the chain is “not fit for use” and Subsequently, due to the attitude of both these companies, I have been making my I have also written many times directly to the management of the European com- I have also written many times directly to the management Correspondence with the vendor has failed, despite my explicit requests, to elicit Correspondence with the vendor has failed, despite my We were also able to retrieve most of the failed link, and we were again amazed to We were also able to retrieve most of the failed link, and During this process, when attempting to weigh the anchor, you can imagine our During this process, when attempting to weigh the anchor, Initially the system worked exactly as I was assured it would, that was until a few Initially the system worked exactly as I was assured it After much soul searching, I decided that I would take his advice, and purchase After much soul searching, I decided that I would take The local vendor/agent recommended that I purchase the complete system manu- The local vendor/agent recommended that I purchase This tale of woe starts in the Eastern Caribbean, where, during 2006, I became This tale of woe starts in the Eastern Caribbean, where, In deference to the stated In deference to the stated I refer to stainless steel I refer to stainless steel we This is a story of how Expensive, Slippery and Shiny: and Shiny: Slippery Expensive, sailing yacht ducer or the dealer. Handling stainless steel chain isn’t so easy, because you have really take care about it. For example: It is important to wash the chain periodically with fresh water. Also the winch has to be installed completely isolated from external electrical sources and so on.” ing in this product, I copy below some of the comments made by the spokesperson of the supplying company. These were contained in the letter in which they denied all responsibility. It is important to realize that these conditions of treatment of the product, non-specific and vague though they may be, are only brought to light after the product has been purchased and suffered a failure. at any time, is the fact that as far as I can ascertain there is no visual means of identifying potential failure areas, which makes anchoring a definite contender for “Russian Roulette” status. that the cause of the failure is in fact either a latent or even a patent defect. own enquiries in this regard, and have found that the nature of the failure is far from unique, with many other users of stainless steel ground tackle having experienced the same problem; my other finding being that the failure is due to the fact that during the fusing process forming the link, the high temperatures required to fuse the metal can, and frequently do, cause the carbon and chromium elements of the steel to combine to form chromium carbide crystals either directly on or immediately adjacent to the weld point. pany that provided the equipment, in an attempt to allow them the opportunity to pany that provided the equipment, in an attempt to standpoint — none of confirm or deny their agreement with the Caribbean vendor’s which even produced an acknowledgement of receipt, let alone a definitive response, until eventually in response to my fifth letter I received a letter totally denying any responsibility, and inferring that the chain was not of their manufacture. (This is despite the vendor having provided me with the contact details of their firm, and without them having seen the chain in question.) any direct contact with the gentleman with whom I held the original negotiations, all any direct contact with the gentleman with whom I held end of the day informed me replies emanating from one of his assistants, who at the that I have no recourse in this matter. discover that the failure was caused by disintegration of the metal from the inside, discover that the failure was caused by disintegration it was evident that and not due to any external damage or corrosion. Furthermore, and crystalline in texture the nature of the material at the failure point was black immediately adjacent to the and appearance, the failure point forming an annulus weld point. (See photograph.) amazement in finding that we had no anchor. We re-anchored using our backup amazement in finding that we had no anchor. We re-anchored stainless steel anchor. I am system, after which we went diving to find our missing the anchor, together with pleased to report that we were able to locate and retrieve (At the time of anchoring we 18 metres of chain still attached to it and the swivel. had approximately 50 metres of chain deployed.) weeks ago when we were at anchor and a squall came through gusting 35 to 40 weeks ago when we were at anchor and a squall came were forced to admit that we knots. Suddenly we were traveling through the fleet. We and both my wife and I were were in fact dragging. Fortunately it was 0900 hours, control the situation with no on board, and so we were able to start the engine and vicinity. damage to either ourselves or any other yacht in the the “system” including 75 metres of the chain, even though this meant divesting the “system” including 75 metres of the chain, even premium for their myself of my existing galvanized chain and paying a considerable that I had made a wise chain. The vendor and I parted company with his assurance decision that I would never regret. factured by the manufacturer, incorporating not only the stainless steel anchor, but factured by the manufacturer, incorporating not only most importantly (in order to also the stainless steel ball-and-socket type swivel and their 10mm stainless steel avoid electrolytic action between dissimilar materials) chain made from 316 TI (Tungsten enhanced) material. aware of a particular anchor design that happened to be manufactured solely out of aware of a particular anchor design that happened to one. stainless steel, and after investigation decided to purchase policies of the zine in this regard, I have omit- involved in this saga, but ted any inclusion of the names of the specific companies I felt that this problem should as the safety issues are so obviously of great import, be aired. ground tackle, anchors, swivels ground tackle, anchors, swivels and chain. yachtsmen can end up being yachtsmen can end up being of the not-so-proud owners unfit equipment that is not only for purpose, but has the potential for inflicting severe damage as to our own and other vessels of well as being the source physical harm to those aboard. the December 2009 issue of SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 48’ 1999 34’ 1989 32’ 2003 4 97CY 30’ 2002 60’ 1982 44’ 1977 CSY 40’ 2001 34’ 1983 Call, faxorvisitourwebsiteforacompletelistofboatssale Excellent condition$99,000 All candidatesmustbelegaltoworkintheUS. Apply [email protected] much oraslittleyoudesire. ease andthen, afterabrieftestsailsendthemoffongreatvacation. You canworkas systems onacharterboatconductchartbrieﬁng, answerclient’s questions, putthemat take themforabrieftestsail. You mustbeabletodemonstrateallofthemechanical money. You willmeetandgreetcharterclients, familiarizethem withtheircharterboatand CharterBriefer– This isanidealjobforthesemiretiredcruiserthatwants toearnextra • screws –boatingknowledgeandcomputerskillsareabigplus. Parts Clerk–weneedadetailorientedOCDpersontohelpuskeep trackofallourloose • to make ourclient’s vacations special–boatingknowledgeisaplus. ClientService- This isanentrylevelposition-youmustbepersonable,• happy andready operate thesevesselsaswell. Referencesrequired. about commonsystemsfoundonsailandpowerboatsupto50ftinlengthbeable BoatMaintenance–youmustbeexperienced, haveyourowntools, beknowledgeable • part-time positions: team playersforthefollowingfulland accepting applicationsfromexperienced USVI basedbareboatCharterCompanyis CYOA YACHT CHARTERS ST. THOMAS YACHTSALES CG Cert.42passengers 42’ 1971GrandBanks SaRy 5H ecusr 95,000.00 DynaCraftMYCruiserwith,435HP,2Strms,A/C,LowHrs. 55,000.00 SeaRayExpressTwinDiesels,465hrs.Genset,A/C SeaRay350HPMercruisers atclKc Nautical Ktch Jeanneau Hunter Hydrocat 300X Compass PointMarina,6300Est.Frydenhoj,Suite28, SnOysy tm,getcniin 119,500.00 SunOdyssey,3strms,greatcondition www.stthomasyachts.com ttros ra hre esl 219,000.00 32,000.00 115,000.00 4 staterooms,greatchartervessel Excellent cruiser,greatcondition Freshwater boat,wellequipped St. Thomas,U.S.V.I.00802 Exp. CCObv.Twr,DieselYmrs230HP,exc.cond. Fax: (340)779-2779 Tel: (340)779-1660 [email protected] PART TIME FULL TIME Power Sail Great Condition$124,900 Twin helms, 3 staterooms 3 helms, Twin 46’ 2000Jeanneau45.2 69,000.00 299,500.00 30 –1Nov 29 –31 29 –31 27 23 16 –17 16 [email protected] 13 [email protected] 9 –16 9 3 –9 2 –3 OCTOBER 25 23 http://sailbarbados.com 19 http://sailbarbados.com (RBVIYC),tel(284)494-3286,[email protected],www.rbviyc.net 12 10 6 4 –5 SEPTEMBER WillyTVirginsCupRace,BVI.RBVIYC LaborDay.Publicholiday in bold): of the If youwouldlikeanauticalortourismeventlistedFREEinourmonthlycalendar, 6hAna otAtnoCneTunmn,Jmia AnegadaPursuitRace(Tentative),BVI.RBVIYC FULL 26thAnnualPortAntonioCanoeTournament,Jamaica. MOON OpenSailtoNormanIsland,RBVIYC BarbadosNationalDinghyChampionships,DayTwo. FULL BarbadosNationalDinghyChampionships,DayOne. MOON SMMA office SOUFRIERE Discovery atMarigotBay Marigot Customs Moorings Marigot Dolittle’sRestaurant Chateau MygoRestaurant MARIGOT BAY Theo’s WholesaleLiquorOutlet GROS ISLET St. LuciaYachtClub Café Olé Rodney BayBoatyardBistro&Restaurant Rodney BayMarinaOffice H2O Restaurant Rodney BayBoatyardoffice The BreadBasket Rodney BaySails Regis Electronics DSL YachtCharters Johnson Hardware Island WaterWorld RODNEY BAYAREA Ahoy, FREE CaribbeanCompassOn-line 43rdBonaireInternationalSailingRegatta.www.bonaireregatta.org PeteShealsMemorialRace(IC24MatchRacing),Tortola.RBVIYC BacktoSchoolsRegatta,Tortola.RoyalBritishVirginIslandsYachtClub otAtnoItrainlMri oraet aac. PortAntonioInternationalMarlinTournament,Jamaica. WorldCreoleMusicFestival,Dominica.www.wcmfdominica.com 13thAnnualFoxy’sCatFight,JostVanDyke,BVI.WEYC J/24InvitationalChampionship,Barbados. at thetimethisissueof Caribbean Compass www.caribbeancompass.com Independence Day,St.Vincent&theGrenadines.Publicholiday Date statisticallymostlikelytohostahurricane please sendthenameanddate(s)ofevent Compass TriskellCupRegatta,Guadeloupe.www.triskellcup.com so pleasecontacteventorganizersdirectlyforconfirmation. All informationwascorrecttothebestofourknowledge PICK UP! and contactinformationoftheorganizingbodyto Readers!WheninSt.Lucia,pickupyourfreemonthlycopy CALENDAR [email protected]. atanyoftheselocations(thismonth’sadvertisers Compass

in USVI went topress—butplanschange, SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43 grenada • jewelry • jewelry just steps from the carenage Tel/Fax (473) 439-4495 [email protected] [email protected] for your boat, home + friends Nick Williams, Manager Nick Williams, Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887 Tel: young street st. george's • rare exotic arts + crafts Engineering, fabrication and welding. Fabrication and repair of Grenada Marine • Spice Island Marine TechNick Ltd. TechNick stainless steel and aluminium items. S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada Blue, Grenada S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True SAILMAKING, RIGGING, ELECTRONICS • wooden-ware • hammocks + more unique gifts • wooden-ware • hammocks + more unique gifts tel: (473) 440-2310 [email protected] continued on next page t n e R t m

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Noelina & Lennox Taylor welcome you! • SPRAY PAINTS • ROLLERS • BRUSHES • TOOLS • • FILLERS • STAINLESS FASTENERS • ADHESIVES • PT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL, AZORES / FAIAL, HORTA PT-9900-144 SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 LEMARIN,MARTINIQUE•GRENADA www.caraibe-greement.fr [email protected] Phone: +(596)596748033Cell:(596)696276605 Shipchandler, Artimer Le Marin,Martinique Voiles Assistance G G G N R Sails &Canvas(repairsfabrication) Open MondaytoFriday8-12am2-6pm I I Tel: (0)596714161Fax: 71 77 e-mail: [email protected] LE MARIN/MARTINIQUE located atCarenantillesdockyard tel/fax: (596)596748832 # F Saturday byappointment O L [email protected] N A S G Caribbean CompassMarketPlace U S Didier andMaria M A W B I L N E D S W C I A N R D T E C P A D R F T E P D F R D N A H C H E P S L I Port dePlaisance,97290LeMarin,Martinique,F.W.I. on our cocktails our on &beer! Happy Hour All Day& All Night &operated. owned GenerationThird locally Steaks •Pizzas •Seafood HOUSE OFSEAFOOD CCHATEAU MYGO www.acyachtbrokers.com •www.bateaux-antilles.fr

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a 0 e O 440 ft v CCall 758-721-7007 a FFOR SALE Compass WWave Piercing Catamaran Anyway, we had played by the rules, and the time Well, here we are in a lovely anchorage where we I hope these experiences will help other cruisers get Kind regards, Colin and Liz Price S/V Pacific Bliss Dear We want to hear from YOU! Please include your name, boat name or shoreside We do not publish individual consumer complaints or Send your letters to: [email protected] or Compass Publishing Ltd. Readers’ Forum Box 175BQ Bequia VC0400 St. Vincent & the Grenadines Then cross the river and go to Immigration, then, if Then cross the river and go to Immigration, then, if someone has told you that you need to do it, and neither Customs nor Immigration know what to do either, you visit the Harbour Office for an anchor permit. Here you are allowed to buy for US$10 a permit to anchor in any of the four anchorages in Spanish Water or one of four more anchorages in Curaçao — and you have to be specific. If you want to then move your boat to any other anchorage, you have to go back to the office and get another permit. If you don’t have a permit, and you are boarded by the ever-present Coastguard, then they will either fine you or move you on. So to comply it means another bus ride and wasted half-day. had come to leave for Aruba. We checked out of Customs and Immigration, and don’t get me wrong — the individual experiences are perfectly pleasant. Then at the Harbour Office you tell them your route (and also, laughably, have to draw a sketch of your vessel, -and I’m no artist). We wrote Willemstad - Santa Cruz Aruba. This was not questioned, and I’m sure I was very clear in asking if I needed a permit to anchor at Santa Cruz, and the answer, just as clearly, was, “no”. thought we would spend two nights, and have been told by the coastguard to be on our way at first light, because we do need a permit! You can imagine the annoyance at being moved on when we thought we’d done everything right. Our only choice is to return the 20 nautical miles upwind to Willemstad, or leave the island tomorrow morning. We’re off, and won’t be sorry to see the back of Curaçao bureaucracy. it right. address, and a way we can contact you (preferably by e-mail) if clarification is required. individual regatta results complaints. (Kudos are okay!) We do not publish anonymous letters; however, your name may be withheld from print at your request. Letters may be edited for length, clarity and fair play. , for bringing this to Compass , Compass Dolly’s Answer: The missing word is PLANKTON LOBSTERS TURTLES 1st May to 31st August SEA URCHINS (SEA EGGS) CLOSED FISHERY Public notice of the same has been posted at several August 1st May to 31st All fisher folks and the General Public are hereby — Fisheries (Amendment) Regulations SRO 2 of 2001. It is therefore the responsibility of all persons within I think the writer suggested it herself, that this is not Thank you very much, Sincerely, Allison Caton Carriacou & Petite Martinique Office Grenada Board of Tourism Dear I write at the moment that the Curaçao Coastguard To explain. When you arrive in, say, Spanish Water, locations throughout the nation over the years. locations throughout the nation over the years. Additionally, the regulations also stipulate and notify the public (including visitors) of the following: WARNED that it is ILLEGAL to remove Turtle Eggs of any Specie of Turtle from nests at any time (Closed or Open Season). the state, including visitors, to be aware of existing rules and to adhere to them. While it may be true that there are local and regional persons who infringe on the rules, the market for these products are created primarily by non-locals who may not be aware of the regulations. These unsuspecting visitors, especially the yachties, are often targeted and approached by violators, who are generally the exception, and who would not take the illegal catch ashore to the islands, for fear of legal repercussions. a very common practice in Carriacou. In four years, she has encountered only one infringement. This is testimony to the fact that the Fisheries Division has been educating local fisher folks on fishing regulations over the years. Many have gotten used to the rules and are mostly acting in accordance. Copies of the notices placed throughout the states are being attached. our attention. We anticipate that you would continue to assist us in educating your readers on what are acceptable practices in Carriacou, Petite Martinique and the rest of the Grenadines. Please continue to encourage them to visit and enjoy Carriacou, the gem of the Grenadines. have just got off our boat with their size 12 hobnail boots on, and I am fuming. Curaçao has to be the least cruiser-friendly island we have visited in either Europe or the Caribbean where we have been cruising for seven months. We understand that Curaçao has a potential smuggling problem with their nearest neigh- bour, but the system for clearing in and clearing out of yachts is confusing at best, and it has very much tainted our visit here. you trek into Willemstad by bus and visit Customs. Endangered

Trade

…Readers’ Forum International

Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean Continued from page 38 First of all, the hawksbill turtle (as well as the green- The findings were that the boat pictured was not — The information was immediately forwarded to the The Minister responsible for Fisheries pursuant to With regard to lobsters and other creatures, the back) is not on the endangered list in Grenada. These can be harvested for local consumption during the open season. However, with Grenada being a signatory to the Convention from Carriacou, but from a neighboring island. As from Carriacou, but from a neighboring island. As such, it is hard to identify who the exact alleged cul- prits are. At the same time, however, the writer seems to be misinformed about a few details. local police for investigation. On receipt of this e-mail, local police for investigation. On receipt of this e-mail, I also consulted with the local Fisheries Extension Officer on the exact regulations regarding spear fishing and trade in hawksbill turtle products. the Fisheries (Amendment) Regulations 1996 hereby gives notice that he has declared the periods hereinaf- ter mentioned as CLOSED SEASON for lobsters and turtles and a CLOSED FISHERY with regards to sea urchins (sea eggs). Fisheries Regulations provide for the following: Species (CITES), it is illegal to engage in the trade of turtle meat, shells, or even whole live creatures. The Leatherback, on the other hand, is endangered. Therefore, there should be absolutely no harvest, trade, or consumption of that species. SEPTEMBER 2010 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46 Tel (473) 415-9323 Tel (473)415-9323 Good price,negotiable. Based inTyrellBay,Carriacou. Fiberglass hull.671GMDiesel. 40 FTFISHINGTRAWLER. www.crackajacksailing.com Tel (868)739-6449 BOATS FORSALEINTRINIDAD [email protected] Tel: (596)696907429orE-mail webs.com ortomakeoffer photos www.lavezzi40forsale. 89,000Ð ono.Formoreinfo& some work.LyingMartinique catamaran whichstillneeds Yanmar Diesels,thisisaproject catamaran 2003,2x3GM30 FONTAINE PAJOTLavezzi40' (596) 696907429 E-mail AN OFFER!!LyingStLucia. from US$199,000)orMAKEUS US$159,000 (pricereduced www.freewebs.com/venus46forsale Generator &more.Fullspecsat Air-Con, SolarPanels,Wind Pilot, EPIRB,SSB,WaterMaker, cruiser. GPS,RADAR,VHF,Auto 2007, excellentliveaboardand fiberglass, vgc,newengine YOUNG SUN46ftVENUS1984KETCH Tel (758)4528531 E-mail [email protected] 1986 Oyster435135.000GBP 1999 JeanneauSO42.2.80.000US 1987 Irwin44119.500US DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO G DETSR OAIN G AVRIE LCTO PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATIONPG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER aiba od Bqi MP MP Bequia Carriacou MP 40 Carriacou SilverDiving MP Guadeloupe MP Caribbean Woods Trinidad 10 42 Caribbean PropellersLtd. Martinique Trinidad 12 Caribbean MarineElectrical Martinique Caraibe Yachts Tortola 28 2 Caraibe Greement Grenada MP Caraibe Greement SintMaarten 6 Camper &Nicholsons BVI YachtSales USA Bequia Trinidad MP MP Business DevelopmentCo. Budget Marine MP Blue WaterSailing 15 Trinidad Antigua 17 PetiteMartinique Bequia Venture 25 St.Vincent St.Lucia 37 Barrow Sails&Canvas Barefoot YachtCharters Curaçao B &CFuelDock MP Art &Design UK ARC Dynamic Martinique Admiral YachtInsurance ABC Marine A&C YachtBrokers BOATS FORSALE [email protected] orTel [email protected] row. USD189,999E-mail for youtostartcruisingtomor- located inTrinidad.Ready out theCaribbeanandnow maintained. Sailedthrough- pit, singleowner,lovingly CRUISER 46’ PETERSONPERFORMANCE [email protected] 458-4969 E-mailseabreeze- good conditionTel(784) SLOOP 36’ MAHOGANYAUXILIARY 493-2573, 532-8007 Tel (784)458-3099/3831, Contact ClintorOrtonKing where is;US$11,000 suitable forrefurbish.Asis, 35’ BERTRAMHULL/DECK 200hp US$11,000 25’ YAMAHAHULL built US$60,000 Lehmans, 7.5knots.Bequia wood hull,2x120hpFord KINGFISHER 1,45’x14’ copperfastenings, www.caribbeancompass.com 1988 Centercock- Yamaha oar nepie U 36 16 24 MP UK 36 Bequia Grenada Trinidad Grenada Iolaire Enterprises 29 Grenadines Sails DR/Jamacia Grenada Marine 29 5 Gittens Engines Free CruisingGuides Colombia Food Fair 37 Electropics Trinidad USA International 24 Edward WilliamInsurance Eduardoño Boats MP Tortola3/MP MP Trinidad Echo Marine-JotunSpecial 25 42 29 41 Doyle's Guides St.Thomas 35 Carriacou Doyle OffshoreSails Curaçao Dominica MP Down IslandRealEstate Venezuela Dominica MarineCenter USA Martinique CYOA helpwant Curaçao Marine Conviasa Airline Cooper Marine MP Clippers Ship CIRExpress St. St.Lucia Chateau MygoRestaurant Maarten MP

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