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The Woodworker

THE WOODWORKER

THE WOODWORKER The Charles H. Hayward Years: 1939-1967 First published by Lost Art Press LLC in 2016 26 Greenbriar Ave., Fort Mitchell, KY 41017, USA Web: http://lostartpress.com

Title: The Woodworker: The Charles H. Hayward Years Publisher: Christopher Schwarz Editor: Megan Fitzpatrick Design: Linda Watts, Meghan Bates Research: Megan Fitzpatrick, Phil Hirz, Christopher Schwarz Digitization: Ty Black Distribution: John Hoffman

Text and images are copyright © 2016 by The Woodworker

ISBN: 978-0-9906230-8-3 First printing.

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means including information storage and retrieval systems without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer, who may quote brief passages in a review.

This book was printed and bound in the United States. Table of Contents

Foreword vi Sharpening 1 Setting Out & 75 Planes 144 251 Boring Tools 287 Carving 306 Turning 377 Veneering & Inlay 389 General Techniques 458 Miscellaneous Tools & Techniques 814 FOREWORD TO ‘THE WOODWORKER: THE CHARLES H. HAYWARD YEARS’

here is little doubt that Charles H. Hay- Tward (1898-1998) was the most impor- tant workshop writer and editor of the 20th century. Unlike any person before (and per- haps after) him, Hayward was a trained cab- inetmaker and extraordinary illustrator, not to mention an excellent designer, writer, edi- tor and photographer. Add to all that the fact that Hayward was, according to Robert Wearing, a “work- aholic,” and you have a good picture as to why we spent almost eight years laboring to bring this book to life to honor his work. As editor of The Woodworker magazine from 1939 to 1967, Hayward oversaw the transformation of the craft from one that was almost entirely hand- based to a time where machines were common, inex- pensive and had displaced the handplanes, chisels and of Hayward’s training and youth. While Hayward didn’t mind machines (he wrote the book “Light Machines for chief. We have tried to organize it into sections on tools, tech- Woodwork” (Evans Bros. 1952) after all), he never stopped fill- niques and projects that you will find useful. But most of all we ing the pages of his magazine with information on hand tools, sought to capture the spirit of Hayward’s tenure at The - joinery and finishing that is difficult to come by today, even worker without excessive editing or watering down of the text. with the Internet to help us. As a result, you will find stylistic inconsistencies throughout. The early 20th century was an important time in the history Should a tool we call a “straightedge” be written as “straight- of handwork because we finally had automated machines that edge,” “straight-edge” or “straight edge?” All three appear in could turn out well-made tools at prices that the the text, as do a thousand other inconsistencies that we could working class could afford. With these machines, firms such as have unified into some homogenous whole. Stanley and Record flooded the world with tools that allowed But we didn’t. The English language and the tools it describes almost anyone to be a woodworker. (It was, of course, these are always in flux. And so we reproduced all of the text exactly automated machines that almost killed hand-tool woodwork- as it appeared when published. Yes, some of it might seem sexist ing, but let’s set that aside for a moment.) in the 21st century. Some of the words are spelled oddly. And Hayward and his contributors took great pains to teach read- sometimes simple articles are dropped, as was common at the ers how to use these hand tools, whether it was a jack , a time (“Take gouge and mark…”). Stanley 45, a metallic side- or a quirk . This Like it or not, writing is like that. Writing styles, punctua- sort of information was rarely written down, and much of it tion and even grammar rules change. So we left the text as-is was lost in decaying magazines or cemeteries. for you to interpret and enjoy. The book you hold in your hands, the first of several vol- That is not to say we had an easy time editing this project. umes, seeks to reprint a small part of the information Hay- The genesis of this book occurred before John Hoffman and ward published in The Woodworkerduring his time as editor in I formed Lost Art Press. We were frustrated with the books

vi The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years available to teach us the details of handwork. We decided to We could not agree more. Hayward says his first project was chase after republishing Robert Wearing’s “The Essential a coffin-shaped bed he built for the family cat as a young boy. Woodworker” and some of Hayward’s classic writings. Getting And after his eyes had failed him and he could not write, edit Wearing’s book revised and republished was easy – Wearing is or build furniture, he received a visitor in the 1980s who said still alive and he was happy to help. Hayward was “in his 80s, painting the guttering of his house.” But Hayward had died in 1998, so things were more difficult I hope to go to my ultimate reward in the same way. than we could have imagined. In the end, we made a deal with the current owners of The Christopher Schwarz, publisher Woodworker magazine to republish the articles in this volume. January 2016 That was the easy part. Which articles? And how should we present them? A group of us took on the project on nights and week- ends. Megan Fitzpatrick, Phil Hirz and I spent weeks comb- ing through the original texts, compiling the articles that were important and organizing them into something you could read without buying 27 years of rare magazine issues and boiling Hayward’s Life, In Brief them down for yourself. After a couple years of work, Ty Black took on the monu- 1898: Born Pimlico, London. Apprenticed to mental task of scanning the text and processing all the clas- the Victoria Street firm Old Times Furnishing sic images from the magazines. This process alone took almost Co. with workshops in Bloomburg Street. Hay- a year. ward spent four years there and then went into Then we had to double-check all the scanned text and images the army for three years as a driver in the artil- against the originals. John spent months of his life at the com- lery, riding a horse. puter comparing the scanned text to the originals from Hay- 1923: Began his own cabinetmaking business ward’s typewriter. but did not like it. “I was no good at business.” And then it needed to be designed so you could easily digest Began creating illustrations for “The Wireless it. Graphic artists Linda Watts and Meghan Bates both spent Encyclopedia.” months puzzling together all of the text and images into what 1925: Became a contributor to Handicrafts you have here. Magazine in Kentish Town. There were many more steps, but I won’t bore you with them. 1930: Named editor of Handicrafts Magazine. What’s important to know is this: We tried to reproduce faith- 1935: Named associate editor at The Wood- fully the articles that Hayward wrote and edited. There are sty- worker magazine under J.C.S. Brough. listic inconsistencies. If you care about these small details, this 1936: Writes “English Period Furniture.” book is not for you. Return it to us for a full refund. 1939: War breaks out. Brough flees for Scot- We hope that you will enjoy “The Woodworker: The Charles land with his ill wife. Hayward named editor of Hayward Years.” But we mostly hope that it will inspire you to the magazine. He never misses a single issue dur- pick up the tools and get busy. As Hayward said in 1980: ing the war, despite the lack of raw materials. “I think that books are useful, but I certainly think that, like 1946: Writes “Tools for Woodwork.” anything else, the skill to do comes from actually doing. Books 1947: Writes “Cabinetmaking for Beginners” can guide you, explain about techniques, tools, materials, – 1949: Writes “Woodworkers’ Pocketbook” present ideas, steer you away from pit-falls… Books include a 1967: Hayward retires from The Woodworker great deal of valuable information but it is up to the reader to but continues to write articles for the magazine. apply that information.”

FOREWORD vii viii The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years TOOLS & TECHNIQUES: SHARPENING

A Really Sharp Edge ���������������������������������������������� 2 Sharpening Your Tools: Obtaining a Keen Edge...... 4 The Scraper...... 40 How I Sharpen my Tools...... 6 Chisels and Gouges...... 42 Hollow-ground Cutting Edges...... 8 Bits...... 43 Sharpening Your Tools: Planes...... 44 Can You Produce a Keen Edge?...... 10 and ...... 45 When Your Plane Needs Sharpening...... 13 and ...... 46 Sharpening the ...... 15 Carving Tools...... 46 Getting the Best out of Your Work: Turning Tools...... 47 Your Tools...... 15 Scratch-stock...... 47 Sharpening Your Tools: ...... 18 Hand and Machine Tool Sharpening: How to Sharpen Cutters...... 20 Hand and Back Saws...... 48 Sharpening the Tools...... 21 Setting and Reconditioning Hand and Backsaws...... 51 Wood Carving: Sharpening the Tools...... 24 Boring Bits...... 54 Sharpening Your Saws...... 28 Cutting , Wood , Screw Box...... 56 Keep Your Saws Sharp...... 29 Scraper Plane Blades...... 58 Setting Your Saws in Wartime...... 32 Axe and ...... 59 Sharpening your Saws...... 33 Moulding Plane Cutters...... 61 Sharpening a Lightning Cross-cut ...... 35 In the Workshop: The Scraper: Sharpening Equipment...... 62 Sharpening...... 36 Workshop Hints: How to Sharpen the Scraper...... 38 The Essential Things to Know about Oilstones.... 65 Simple Home-made Saw Vice...... 39 Points to Know about Oilstones...... 66 How I Sharpen my Tools: Keep the Oilstone Flat...... 68 The Scraper...... 39 Cleaning an Oilstone...... 68 Sharpening the Scraper ������������������������������������������ 41 Your Oilstone Case...... 69 Hints on Tool Grinding...... 69 Grindstones and Oilstones...... 70

Chart titles are in italic. A REALLY SHARP EDGE Its advantages, how to obtain it, telling when you have it

O make a quibble, what is a sharp causes heat to be generated, and the thin away— say 1∕ 16 in. or more—it may eas- Tedge? The answer seems obvious, part of the steel (the edge) rapidly heats ily happen that the faulty steel is ground but consider the matter a little. The fine up. (There is, of course, just as much fric- away, bringing good hard steel to the edge you put on a paring chisel; would it tion when the wet stone is used, but the edge. If the whole body of the tool is be of any use for shaving? Or your razor; heat is absorbed by the water and imme- soft, however, little can be done about it. would it be successful at chopping wood? diately carried away.) You know how Angle. Now comes the angle at which Each may be sharp in its way, but neither when you put a flame beneath a tapered the tool is sharpened, and its shape. In would be of much use if put to a purpose piece of metal the thin end heats up and theory the lower the angle the keener for which it was not intended. However, becomes red hot first. In the thicker part the tool, because there is less displace- here we are concerned only with cutting the heat is absorbed into the body of the ment of the wood being cut. Compare wood, and we may put down straightway metal and thus remains comparatively A and B, Fig. 2. At A, as the tool enters the things that chiefly affect the edge. cool. The same thing happens when the the wood after the initial severing of the These are: tool is put on the grinding wheel. The fibres, the waste has only to be forced 1. The steel itself; whether of good thin edge quickly becomes hot—may slightly out of the way. At B it has to be quality and correctly tempered. indeed become red hot—and the tem- lifted bodily—in fact it would not deal 2. The angle at which it is sharpened. per is drawn. with a thick shaving at all. You know

3. The quality of the edge.    how much easier it is to knock in a thin, Steel. It is fairly obvious that steel of slowly tapered wedge than one which is poor quality is useless. No matter how A fine edge lasts longer obtuse. Somewhat of the same applies. In fine an edge you may put on it, it will than a coarse one fact, if a thick chip is being removed, the quickly become blunt, and all your work    chisel ground at a high angle does not cut will be wasted. With steel like this you in the ordinary sense at all once it has can do nothing, and it is better to scrap The immediate sign of this is that the entered the wood. It just lifts the layers it straightaway. But even good steel is of steel turns blue as in Fig. 1, but it is then purely by wedge action, the wood split- no use if not properly tempered, and, too late. The damage has been done. ting away ahead of the cutting edge (B). although you can do little about correct- The moral is to dip the steel often into At the same time it would not do to ing badly treated steel, you can always water and to cease grinding well before make the angle too low because the mate- avoid spoiling the temper (drawing it, as the edge is reached. Better still, use a rial of the steel would crumble as in Fig. it is called) by taking precautions to see wet grindstone, and you can then grind 3. It is therefore a matter of compromise that it is ground properly. right up to the edge with safety. Inciden- between the two. The angle must be low Grinding. The enemy of tool steel tally, when you take tools to a grinder enough to give a keen edge, yet not so is heat, and tools for woodwork should insist that they are wet ground. A good low that it is liable to crumble. To an always be ground on a wet stone. The grinder will do this automatically, but it extent it depends on the work the tool water keeps the steel cool. The man who has been known for a man to put tools has to do and the wood it has to cut. A is used to it can generally manage to on a dry stone. paring chisel used to remove fine shav- thin down an edge on a dry grindstone Most good class tools are made of reli- ings can be ground at a lower angle than, in an emergency, but it is not advisable able steel and are properly tempered. say, a mortise chisel which comes in for as a general practice, and in inexperi- Occasionally, however, one comes across heavy chopping. In the same way, the enced hands the steel may be spoilt. If a tool which is soft in patches. It may be man who normally works in tough hard- you have to use a dry stone, keep a can a fault in the mixture of the steel at one wood would find it necessary to sharpen of cold water handy and dip the tool particular point, or it may be due to bad his chisels at a rather higher angle than into it frequently. Equally important, grinding on a dry stone. Often it can be the worker who reckons normally to use never grind away the steel right up to the corrected by grinding on a wet stone. . extreme edge. Stop well short of it. The drawing of the temper is generally Experience has shown that the gen- Consider what happens. The friction quite local and caused by the heat gen- eral angle for paring chisels is about between the steel and the revolving stone erated at the thin edge. If this is ground 30 degrees, and 35 degrees for mortise

2 The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years FIG. 2. EXAGGERATED EXAMPLES OF SHARPENING ANGLES The thin edge at A continues to cut, whilst at B the wood is merely forced up, the edge not cutting after the preliminary entry into the wood FIG. 1. EDGE WHICH HAS BEEN “BLUED” BY DRY GRINDING

FIG. 4. VARIOUS ANGLES USED IN SHARPENING FIG. 3. LIABILITY OF A is the grinding angle, B the honing angle for paring chisels, STEEL TO CRUMBLE and C the honing angle for chisels for chopping AT A THIN EDGE

FIG. 6. SHARPENING A CHISEL— ASCERTAINING THE HONING ANGLE FIG. 5. DIFFERENCE IN QUALITY OF AN EDGE A shows the coarse “teeth” of a ground edge, and B the fi ne “teeth“ of a honed edge

FIG. 7. REMOVING THE BURR ON A BLOCK OF WOOD

FIG. 8. STROP OF there� By rubbing the tool on a still fi ner LEATHER GLUED stone they are reduced still more, being AROUND WOOD BASE in fact invisible to the naked eye, though easily discernible under a powerful mag- nifying glass� It is therefore a matter of using an even fi ner stone in order to pro- chisels� Both can be ground at a lower by the granules of the grindstone which duce a really keen edge, fi nally passing angle (25 degrees) because this leaves cut their way into the steel� Th e result so to a strop dressed with a fi ne � only the extreme edge to be honed� Th e far as the edge is concerned is a jagged Even so the ‘‘teeth” will still be pres- idea is shown in Fig� 4� line rather like the teeth of an irregularly ent, but they are so small that for all prac- Quality. By this is meant the fi neness sharpened saw as at A, Fig� 5� tical purposes they can be regarded as of the edge� If you look at the edge of a It is to get rid of these “teeth” that the non-existent� Of course much depends tool which has been ground it may be tool is rubbed on an oilstone, the gran- on the use to which the tool is to be put� sharp in the sense that the grinding has ules of which are considerably fi ner than So fi ne an edge would be largely wasted been continued right to the edge, but it those of the grindstone� Th is produces on a chisel used for chopping� is scored with a series of scratches eas- the edge shown at B� Th e “teeth” are Th ere is more in it than just sharpness, ily visible to the eye, these being caused very much fi ner, though they are still however� A tool which has been fi nished

Sharpening 3 on a really fine stone and then on a steel to be rubbed away and so lessen- is simply a piece of 3∕ 8 in. wood shaped strop will keep its edge longer than one ing the work. A fine grade stone of the as shown, with a piece of soft leather which has been sharpened on a coarse India, Carborundum, or Unirundum stretched around the front and glued at stone. The reason is that the points of the type will give a good edge for most pur- the back. This is dressed with the fin- teeth crumble under the cutting strain. poses, though for really fine work a still est emery powder (such as was used on As there are clearly many more points finer stone should be used to finish .off the old-fashioned knife boards before in the edge sharpened on the fine stone Use a fairly thin lubricating oil, and rub stainless steel came in) and oil. Alterna- (B) than in that sharpened on the coarse the tool back and forth until you can tively for a medium grade strop use the stone (A), they are able to stand up to the feel that a burr has been turned up. By fine paste for finishing when grinding work longer. drawing the ball of the thumb across the the valves of a car engine. For a really Burr. All this, however, is compli- edge on the flat side you should be able fine finish use crocus powder. Draw the cated by another detail not yet dis- to detect it. honed flat along the strop twice, cussed, that of the burr set up when a This is an indication that the edge is then flat on the back. A few rubs in this tool is sharpened. As the tool is rubbed sharp, but it does not show the quality of way will get rid of all traces of burr, and back and forth on the stone the steel at the edge or whether there are any gashes. give a superfine edge. It is the method of the extreme end becomes forced up, and The best way of testing this is to hold the the wood carver to whom really sharp can in fact be detected easily by draw- edge to the light. A sharp edge cannot tools are essential. ing the ball of the thumb across the edge be seen, whilst a dull one shows up light. To sum up, the attainment of a fine at the back. If the tool is reversed flat on If there are gashes the sharpening will edge involves the following stages: the stone the burr will be bent back but have to be continued. When satisfactory 1. Grinding, in which the unwanted will not be detached. Unless it is got rid hold the back of the tool flat on the stone thick part of the bevel is removed on of it will prevent a sharp edge being pro- and rub back and forth. This will push the grindstone. duced—even if it could be produced it the burr back but will not remove it. To 2. Honing on a medium or fine stone would soon be ruined by the burr being ensure the latter draw the edge once or to get rid of the coarseness made by the forced back on to the edge as the tool twice across a piece of as in grindstone. was used. This, however, is a practical Fig. 7. This will force the burr away— 3. Removing the burr. matter and is dealt with under the actual somewhat to the detriment of the edge, 4. Honing to a fine edge. sharpening. but the subsequent treatment puts this 5. Stropping. The Practical Sharpening. The right. It is not necessary to grind (1) every chisel, having been ground at 25 Now rub the bevel once or twice on time, or even to carry out (2), (3) and (4). degrees, is now rubbed on the oilstone. a really fine oilstone—an Arkansas is The wood carver, for instance, keeps his The exact angle is not critical and you ideal—and again reverse flat on the tools in order almost entirely by strop- can tell when it is approximately right by stone. If you have only the one stone you ping. Only occasionally is it necessary to holding it so that the ground bevel lies will have to use this. For most purposes use the stone. General woodworkers can flat on the stone, then raising the han- it is quite satisfactory, but for a piece of quite well copy the idea for their paring dle slightly as shown by the dotted lines fine paring a fine stone gives a beautiful tools, never letting them become really in Fig. 6. This will bring just the edge edge. Finally, to finish off, use a strop. dull, but giving a few rubs every now in contact with the stone, leaving less A convenient kind is shown in Fig. 8. It and again on the strop.

OBTAINING A KEEN EDGE Ability to give a keen edge to tools is half the battle in turning out good woodwork— or, to put it more logically, it is practically impossible to do good work with blunt tools

IKE most things, sharpening edge it would crumble rapidly in use because use because of the resistance. The idea is L tools is a matter of compromise. it would have little strength. A high shown in Fig. 2. If only the thin bevel at A chisel, say, sharpened at a really low angle, although producing a strong (A) would retain its edge it would slice angle would have a fine, keen edge, but edge, would be impossibly laborious to its way through the wood. Note how the

4 The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years FIG. 1. TESTING AN EDGE FOR SHARPNESS FIG. 2. HOW SHARPENING ANGLE AFFECTS PERFORMANCE The thumb is drawn lightly across the edge which if keen In all cases the angles are shown in exaggeration to make the point clear will tend to grip the flesh. A blunt edge is smooth and lifeless actual edge maintains contact with the such wood could take advantage of the by drawing the thumb across the back. point of severance. On the other hand, easy working the low bevel gives. Gen- Although the presence of this is an indi- the chisel at (C) has its bevel at a high erally, however, only one chisel is avail- cation of sharpness, it does not reveal the angle, and, although having a strong able for all , and it works out that quality of the edge or whether it is free edge, it would be practically impossi- a honing angle of about 30 deg. gives the from gashes. This question of quality is ble to use. When used with the grain best compromise for bench chisels. Mor- important because it not only affects the the chip is forced up steeply and a split tise chisels and those for chopping gener- surface of the wood being worked, but develops in front of the actual edge, so ally need an angle nearer 35 deg. also the time that edge lasts. A super- that it splits the wood as a wedge rather To reduce the labour of sharpening, fine edge lasts longer than one which is than cuts it (C). If used across the grain the main bevel is ground at about 25 coarse. as at (D) the wood is crushed by pressure deg. so that only the extreme edge needs If you look at an edge under a pow- from the bevel. Softwood would merely to be rubbed on the oilstone. Once the erful magnifying-glass you will see that, collapse beneath it. honed bevel becomes so wide that sharp- far from being a straight line, it consists Sharpening Angle. Theoretically, chis- ening becomes laborious, the tool should of a saw-like edge with “teeth” large or els used for paring soft timbers could be be ground afresh. small according to its quality. An edge sharpened at a lower bevel than those for Fine and Coarse Edges. As the tool sharpened on a coarse stone has deep, paring hard woods, because the resistance is rubbed on the stone a burr is formed large serrations, and as the tool is used is less, and the man normally working in at the back, and this can be detected the “points” either crumble or are rapidly

FIG. 3. EDGES UNDER A MAGNIFYING GLASS Both have the main ground bevel, but A is sharpened on a coarse stone, and B on a fine one

FIG. 4. HOW PLANE IRON LOSES ITS EDGE Wear is in two main ways: the metal is worn away roughly parallel with the wood surface, A B and the extreme point is rounded over, both by friction

Sharpening 5 worn down level with the hollows and so then the other. This bends the burr back When grinding is necessary a wet present a series of flats which fail to cut. and forth so that it finally drops off. grindstone should be used if possible, The same thing happens to an extent, of Another way is to draw the edge the reason being that the water keeps course, to a fine edge, one finished on, across the edge of a piece of hardwood. the tool cold and prevents the temper say, an Arkansas oilstone, for this still For a really fine edge, however, it should from being drawn. A dry grinding wheel has serrations, though on a small scale. afterwards be stropped. An excellent is convenient, but unless great care is The “teeth”, however, are much smaller, strop can be made from a piece of sup- taken there is risk of burning the steel and they are much more numerous. Fig. ple leather, dressed with the finest grade so that it becomes so soft as to be use- 3 shows the idea. It is obvious that (B) emery powder and lubricating oil. Alter- less. If it is used, a precaution is to have a would give a much finer finish than (A). natively, fine grade grinding-in paste, can of cold water handy and dip the tool Furthermore the wear is spread over such as is used for motor car valves, can into it frequently, especially as the edge their greater number. be used. For extra fine edges, such as are of the tool is approached. Large tools are Gashes (generally due to fouling nails) required for carving tools, use crocus not specially difficult because the heat is can be detected by sight. They appear powder and oil rather than emery. conducted away by the thickness of the as spots of light on the edge. Much the Many grades of oilstone are available, metal, but small ones are easy burnt. In same thing applies to a dull edge. It but the general tendency is to use man- addition to the constant dipping in water shows up as a white line, whereas a sharp ufactured rather than natural stones. a good plan is to cease grinding before edge cannot be seen. Another test is to These have the advantage of constant the actual edge is reached, and finish off draw the thumb across the edge, which, quality. For cabinet making tools use on the oilstone. In any case, leaving a if sharp, will grip the flesh. A dull edge a fine grade stone, though a medium or narrow unground portion does not mat- appears smooth and lifeless. coarse grade is handy for quick rubbing ter since normal oil-stoning starts a new Getting rid of the burr is necessary. down when the edge has been gashed. bevel in any case. The only exception is Rubbing the back turns it in the other The finest of stones is the natural in turning tools in which there are no direction without removing it. Most Arkansas which gives a splendid edge. It separate honing and sharpening . craftsmen strop the tool across the palm is, however, expensive and is somewhat of the left hand, first one side of the tool slow cutting.

HOW I SHARPEN MY TOOLS This article is by a reader who has spent many years in the trade as a practical cabinet maker. What he has to say, therefore, is not a mere theory unbacked by practice, but is the result of experience gained in everyday application in the workshop. The sharpening of tools is clearly a most important part of woodworking, and we gladly pass on an idea which our contributor has proved to be sound

EFORE modern synthetic oilstones found to suit the majority of tools. It was and found immediate clearance at the Band the fast-cutting natural stones realised that freshly ground and sharp- ground portion. Continued sharpen- such as Washita were available the hon- ened tools gave the best results because, ing on the oilstone naturally increased ing of a cutter was a slow business. Nat- the cutting bevel being very small, the the width of the cutting bevel, and the ural stones were of the Charnley For- resistance was also very small. Chips tool not only took longer to sharpen but est type, and, although they gave a good curled away at the sharpening bevel was more difficult to manipulate owing quality edge, they were very slow cut- to the greater wedge resistance. Conse- ting. It was because of this that tools    quently the craftsman kept his tools well were always ground before being sharp- Time spent in sharpening ground and the cutting bevel small. ened on the oilstone. A grinding angle of With the coming of the modern approximately 25 degrees and a sharp- tools is well spent sharpening stones, time spent on hon- ening angle of 30 to 35 degrees was    ing tools was lessened, and for some

6 The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years FIG. 1. “HOW I HOLD A PLANE IRON WHEN HONING” FIG. 2. MOVEMENT OF CUTTER WHEN HONING The oilstone is parallel with the edge of the bench, and I work the iron with a circular movement over the whole area of the stone, so equalising wear

FIG. 3. GRINDING AND HONING ANGLES FIG. 4. WOOD SPOKESHAVE CUTTER AND HOW IT IS SHARPENED reason or other the two angles gradu- Method of Sharpening. The fol- medium India oilstone, rubbing the ally merged into one which seems to lowing is the method of sharpening. grinding bevel in the same manner as vary from 30 degrees to 40 degrees. In The grinding angle is made on a coarse for the previous stage. This smooths the the trade this was possibly the result of India oilstone or a rough grit carborun- grinding angle. Now tilt slightly and put piecework, although the writer, after dum, the angle about 25 degrees. Only on the cutting bevel, turning the tool years of piecework, still finds the two- the bevel should be rubbed on this stone over to remove the burr. Repeat the oper- angle sharpening better. A plane iron as it is far too coarse for the back. The ation but do not allow the cutting bevel will stand up to 21∕ 2 hours hard work tool is held at an oblique angle to the oil- to exceed 1∕64 in. width. Finally hone before becoming blunt, and by keeping stone and moved with an elliptical move- tool on a Washita or Arkansas stone. This four irons to a plane these can be pre- ment as at A and B, Fig. 2. In this way will remove any sign of burr still left. pared at leisure. This two-angle sharp- the entire area of the stone is worked and When stoning the back of a tool always ening suits all tools; it gives a cleaner cut so keeps flat. keep fingers on top of tool as this pre- and greater control. Wipe the tool clean and place on a vents lifting which would cause dubbing.

Sharpening 7 The writer finds that the circular move- is known as a thin tool and is easy to have one stone only, but two, fine and ment when sharpening tends to grind use and control. If the cutting edge is coarse, are to be preferred because the the bevels and back much flatter than a allowed to increase in width through grit from the coarse side is liable to get back and forth movement and keeps the successive sharpening it is known as a on to the fine side. It works round with stone flat as well. He has oilstones that thick tool. Each sharpening takes a lit- the dirty oil. have been in constant use over ten years tle longer and more surface of metal is The Wood Spokeshave. The cutter of and are perfectly flat although all types offered to the surface of the cut so that this tool should be ground and sharp- of tools have been sharpened on them. more effort is needed to work the tool. ened on the inside only. Grinding angle It is sometimes thought that to con- At the same time it should be realised is 25 degrees, and cutting angle about 30 tinually stone the back of a tool removes that a thin tool is delicate, and should degrees. The cutting edge should be thin. the backing but this so-called backing not be tossed on to the bench. Felt hold- The most important point to remem- extends at least to the centre of the tool, alls should be made for chisels, and ber is that the hollow-ground face must sometimes right through in the case of planes should be laid on edge and pro- never be touched with the oilstone. You cast steel tools. This back is part of the tected from knocks. It will be found that will find that the burr at the edge helps cutting angle and for the tool to be effi- the coarse stone is not always necessary and cuts better than one without, pro- cient it must be flat to the edge. Hold the for the grinding angle. This angle can be viding that the hollow-ground face has back of the tool to the light. If a bright maintained on the medium stone, spe- not been touched. This burr must not be line near the edge can be seen, rub the cially with small tools, but if you hap- overdone however. After grinding, only back on medium oilstone till this disap- pen to catch a nail the coarse stone is a fine slip stone should be used to put pears, and finish off on the hone. desirable. on the cutting angle. The burr should be Thick and Thin Tools. A freshly Just a word on combination stones. just enough to be felt. ground tool with a fine cutting angle This is most convenient when you can

HOLLOW-GROUND CUTTING EDGES Although professionally ground cutters are treated on a wet grindstone so that there is no risk of overheating, there is a growing tendency for men to use a geared emery or carborundum grindstone in the workshop. This is quite satisfactory if the tool is frequently dipped into water to keep it cool. The writer of this article considers that the hollow grinding which results from using the small diameter bench grindstone has advantages over the flat bevel more usual in tools

FIG. 1. TOOL USED IN GRINDING HEN grinding the cutting edges The tool is slid sideways back and forth so of tools on a geared (bench) that every part W of the bevel is grindstone, most woodworkers use the ground equally. tool-rest as the sole means of support. This device renders Such a procedure is inadvisable, par- assistance unnecessary ticularly as regards the cutting irons of smoothing planes, try-planes, jack- planes, etc. A neat, straight, flat bevel is obtainable, of course, but one generally needs an assistant to turn the handle so that both hands are free to hold the edge of the tool against the stone properly. Moreover, the grinding is slow, great care being needed to get the bevel straight;

8 The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years FIG. 2. ELEVATION AND PLAN SHOWING FIG. 3. MORTISE CHISEL BEING GROUND GRINDING OF A PLANE IRON There is less rubbing required on the oilstone when the bevel is hollow ground as shown at A the time required is longer if one works unaided. Another point in respect of grinding is: why aim at a flat bevel? Obviously, a hollow bevel is more desirable, for it means less rubbing when sharpening the cutting edge on an oilstone. Firmer and mortise chisels are vastly improved by the slight hollowness in the bevels; it is a real treat to chop out dovetails, mortises, etc., with them. A Tool Fence. To facilitate grinding, i.e. to operate the grindstone unaided and obtain a neat, straight, hollow- ground bevel a tool fence should be made, the whole arrangement being illustrated in Fig. 1. To make the fence, a piece of 7∕8 in. flooring 18 ins. long by 43∕4 ins. wide provides the base. A small fence, rather like a bench-hook, is arranged at one end as in Fig. 2. It is FIG. 4. HOLLOW-GROUND PLANE IRON a permanent fixture, for the grindstone The result of dubbing over the edge when sharpening on the oilstone is shown below. itself is adjustable along the front edge Note the heel formed of the base.

Sharpening 9 Now, the usual diameter of bench Hold the cutting iron against the quickly, or alternatively, lean too heav- grindstone wheels is from 6 ins. to 4 ins. wheel firmly with the left hand and oper- ily on the cutting iron. Keep a tin of cold Naturally, the small wheel gives a more ate the grindstone with the other hand, water handy so the iron can be cooled acute concave bevel, but by holding the turning the handle slowly at first until in it frequently. An over-heated cutting tool at a more acute slant a quite good you get into the rhythm of the action. edge turns a bluish-black colour. The hollow-ground bevel can be obtained on The iron, once you get going properly, ultimate result is a softening of the tem- larger wheels. is slowly moved from side to side across per at the edge where, of course, there is A Cutter. A 7 in. the revolving stone by sliding its oppo- not so much metal, and a softened edge long smoothing plane cutter is shown site end along the fence. renders the iron useless. in the side elevation in Fig. 2, and the Should this end be rather battered Hollow Grinding Features. The dif- amount of tilt can be noted. For tools about with sharp, hammered edges (due ference between a hollow-ground bevel of greater length, such as mortise chisels, to setting in the plane) this roughness and a flat bevel are shown at A and B, the grindstone is shifted farther away, as should be ground off to make the end Fig. 3. When rubbing on the oilstone in Fig. 3. smooth and straight; otherwise the end there is much less metal to be removed Assuming, however, you wish to grind may stick in the corner formed by the in the sharpening of the hollow-ground a smoothing plane cutter, screw—or guide block and make the movement cutter and consequently less labour —the fence to the bench top, set difficult. is involved. The drawing of a hollow- the cutter against the guide of the fence, Avoid Over-Heating. Geared grind- ground smoothing plane iron at Fig. 4 and bring the grindstone over until the ers have a ratio of about 7 to 1. In other shows up the advantages of the feature. correct slant is found. The circumfer- words, one turn of the handle causes Regarding chisels, such a bevel enables ence edge of the emery wheel must, of the emery wheel to revolve seven times. the cutting edge to slice its way deeply course, be true in relation with the fence Therefore, as the grinding is constant, into the wood. so the entire surface bites into the metal there is a risk of over-heating the iron. with each revolution. One must not turn the handle too

SHARPENING YOUR TOOLS: CAN YOU PRODUCE A KEEN EDGE? A properly sharpened edge lasts much longer than one only roughly put into condition

OSSIBLY the title of this arti- and, regarded from this aspect only, the that a compromise has to be effected so Pcle sounds a little obvious; it seems lower the angle at which it is sharpened that its cutting property is not sacrificed clear that a tool must be sharp if it is to the higher its efficiency, because there is unduly for the sake of strength, and vice do its work properly. Yet the probabil- less displacement of the wood as shown versa. In an ideal state, tools used for ity is that many men do not know how in Fig, 1. Unfortunately no known steel to put a really keen edge on a chisel, will stand up to the strain of so thin an plane iron, or whatever it may be. There edge. It just crumbles under the pres- is more in it than is immediately appar- sure (A). If it is tempered more highly ent. For instance there is the question of to stiffen it it becomes brittle and breaks the quality of the steel itself, the angle off. at which it is sharpened, the quality of Now take a chisel sharpened at a the stone on which it is rubbed, and the high angle as in Fig. 2. The edge is very further treatment after rubbing down (if strong, but the displacement of the wood any). is so great as to make it entirely imprac- Sharpening Angle. Let us consider ticable in use. A softwood would prob- an edge tool, say a chisel. It is virtu- ably be merely crushed under the pres- SHARPENING WOOD SPOKESHAVE ally a wedge which displaces the wood, sure instead of being cut. It is clear then CUTTER IN VICE WITH OILSTONE SLIP

10 The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years FIG. 1. SHARPENING ANGLE TOO LOW FIG. 2. ANGLE FAR TOO HIGH FIG. 3. CORRECT GRINDING AND SHARPENING ANGLES FIG. 4. SECTIONS THROUGH PLANES SHOWING ANGLES FIG. 5. COMPARISON OF SINGLE-IRON PLANE FIG. 6. SAW-LIKE EDGE SHOWN IN EXAGGERATION FIG. 7. USEFUL STROP FOR TOOLS FIG. 8. HOW BURR OR WIRE EDGE IS FORMED FIGS. 9 AND 10. STROPPING EDGE ON HAND

Sharpening 11 softwood could be sharpened at a lower cutter is set at only 20 degrees, the effec- the cutter on both sides makes the edge angle than those for hardwood. Unfor- tive angle is actually greater owing to still finer and so makes it last longer as tunately few of us are inclined to have a its being sharpened at 35 degrees. It is well as giving a finer finish. Remember double kit of tools! thus really less suitable for end grain. To to preserve the bevel and to keep the At the same time it is possible to fol- make it suitable for its purpose it should back flat on the strop. low out the idea in accordance with the be sharpened at a low angle, not more This stropping is an invaluable idea particular chisel and the work it nor- than 25 degrees. for chisels. You can always keep an edge mally does. For instance a mortise chisel Quality of Edge. Now let us come with a strop, rubbing down on the stone or a heavy firmer chisel which is used for to the quality of the edge. If any cutting only occasionally. Remember that carv- chopping only should be sharpened at edge could be examined through a pow- ers rely upon stropping to keep a good an angle of 30 to 35 degrees. Any lower erful magnifying glass it would appear edge. You can’t always be taking the cut- angle than this would make too weak an something like Fig. 6, a ragged saw- ter out of a plane, but you can strop it edge—at any rate for hardwood. On the like edge. This is due, of course, to the after honing. other hand a fine bevelled-edge chisel oilstone which removes the steel by an The Wire Edge. A last point is that used entirely for paring and never struck abrasive action. The degree of coarseness sharpening on the stone always turns up with the could be sharpened at 25 is dependent entirely upon the oilstone. a wire edge or burr shown in exaggera- degrees or a little more. These points are Now for work a medium tion in Fig. 8. This is pressed back when shown diagramatically in Fig, 3, which stone such as a medium Indian or Car- the back is rubbed flat on the stone, but also shows the normal grinding angle of borundum gives sufficiently fine an edge it must be removed before the tool can 25 degrees or a little less. for the class of work. For cabinet work, be used properly, because otherwise the Plane Cutters. So much for chis- however, a finer stone is essential, at any burr is pressed back into the edge and so els. How about plane cutters? For nor- rate for finishing off, and a fine Indian, ruins it. Bending it back and forth until mal bench planes experience has shown Carborundum, Washita, or Arkansas is it drops off is the best way. The hand is that a sharpening angle of 30 degrees necessary. the best for this; draw the tool across the is the most successful compromise, the palm of the left hand first one side and    grinding angle being 25 degrees. This then the other as shown in Figs. 9 and applies to the average plane, the cutter of Always use a fine stone to 10. You may take a little time to get into which is set at 45 degrees with the sole. finish off an edge the stroke, but try it slowly at first, and But some smoothing planes are set at 50    remember that it is the alternate bending degrees or even more to lessen the lia- back and forth that removes the burr. bility of the grain to tear out. It is fre- Afterwards strop on the leather. quently found that such planes are liable There is more in it than this, however. When Is It Sharp? Now a word on to chatter, and this is usually because the Turn again to Fig. 6. It is clear that it is detecting when an edge is sharp. Draw- cutter is sharpened at too low an angle. the points which do the main cutting, ing the thumb across the back of the cut- This shown at B, Fig. 4. Sharpening at a and it is inevitable that these will soon ter enables the burr to be felt, and this higher angle, say 35 degrees, usually cor- crumble and so leave a dull edge. If a is an indication that an edge has been rects the fault as at C. Note how the cut- fine stone is used the scratches or inden- given. It does not show that it is free ter is supported much lower down in C tations left by the stone will be much from gashes, however, and to be sure of than in B. smaller, and there will therefore be a this you should hold it to the light. A Another point in connection with great many more smaller points. Thus it sharp edge cannot be seen, whilst a dull planes is that applying to those with sin- follows that the finer the stone the lon- one reflects a thin line of light. Gashes gle cutters with the bevel uppermost, ger the edge will last because there are can be detected in this way. Some work- frequently used for end grain. It should more points to resist the wear. ers draw the thumb lightly along the be remembered that it is the sharpening You can carry the idea farther by edge. A sharp one grips the flesh, whilst angle which is the effective angle. The always stropping the tool after honing. a dull one is lifeless. Take care if it is fact that the cutter is set at low pitch All you want is a piece of wood shaped your first experience, however. It is easy does not alter the effective angle unless as in Fig. 7 with a piece of leather glued to cut yourself. the cutter is sharpened accordingly. to the face and turned around the edges. Glance at Fig. 5, which shows a normal Dress the leather with fine emery powder bench plane (A), together with a block and oil or the mixture used for grinding plane (B). It is clear that, although the in the valves of motor cars. Stropping

12 The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years WHEN YOUR PLANE NEEDS SHARPENING Can you tell by looking at it when your plane needs sharpening? After rubbing on the oilstone can you detect whether it is really keen? Do you know what has happened when it has become blunt? If you are uncertain this article will put you right

OU know that dull, lifeless feeling just isn’t anything to reflect the light. A How Burr is Formed. When you rub Ya plane begins to develop after it has dull edge on the other hand shows a line the cutter on the stone you wear away been in use for a while. It requires extra of white, the width of which will vary the worn part, and the bevel is able to pressure to keep it down on to the wood according to how badly it is in need of meet the back of the cutter in a sharp, at all; it needs extra power to push it; and sharpening. Fig. 1 shows what it looks clearly defined angle. But something else the shavings (when they occur at all) are like in exaggeration, the magnifying glass has happened. The rubbing on the stone uneven; and you feel tempted to give the revealing the worn and gashed edge. wears away the steel, and, although the cutter a tap to make it cut. Obviously it What has happened is that continuous bulk of the minute filings pass to the needs sharpening; you can tell from the friction over the surface has worn away stone, being carried away by the oil, that feel of the plane. But if you picked up a the edge as shown in Fig. 2, the wear at the extreme edge is not detached, but plane in a strange workshop, could you being parallel with the sole of the plane. hangs on and is pressed backwards. This tell without using it whether it was fit for The front of the edge has deteriorated to is what is commonly known as the burr use? In other words, can you tell a keen an extent, but the main wear is under- or wire edge, and it can be detected by edge by sight? neath. If you have a fairly powerful mag- drawing the thumb across the edge at the Testing. Take out the cutter, remove nifying glass it is worth examining your back. It is shown in exaggeration in Fig. 3. the back iron, and hold it to the light. plane cutter next time it needs sharpen- This feeling for the burr is an indica- You cannot see a really sharp edge—there ing. You will find this wear clearly shown. tion that the edge may be sharp, but as a test by itself it is of no great value as will appear later. Removing the Burr. This burr must be got rid of for two reasons; it would leave the wood rough, and it would cause the edge to deteriorate rapidly owing to the steel being forced back against it where it would cause gashes. It would be like planing over small nails. Rubbing the back of the cutter flat on the stone helps to loosen it, but to get rid of it alto- gether stropping is necessary.

FIG. 1. PLANE CUTTER IN NEED OF SHARPENING FIG. 2. HOW WEAR TAKES PLACE The bluntness is revealed by the line of white at the extreme The dotted line at the extreme edge. In the circle it is magnified. A really sharp edge cannot point shows the original shape be seen. There is nothing to reflect the light before being worn away

FIG. 3. BURR FORMED AT EDGE This is formed when the cutter is rubbed on the oilstone. The right-hand view shows how it is detached when stropped on leather or on the hand. If it is not removed it will be forced back against the edge, so gashing it

Sharpening 13 A piece of leather dressed with fine    Look at it this way. When a coarse emery powder and oil or the paste such A fine stone makes the stone is used there are just a number of as is used for grinding in the valves of edge last longer and points at the edge and these are soon motor cars can be used. Rub the bevel worn away. With a fine stone there are on it a few times, then the back, keep- gives a cleaner finish at least double the number of points to ing it flat. Apart from helping to remove    resist wear. And with a superfine stone the burr it helps to give a still finer edge followed by stropping the points are to the cutter since the strop acts virtually a piece of wood. This will finally get rid so fine (and therefore so many) that as a fine stone. of the burr, but may leave a slight rough- the edge is practically resolved into a It will be realised, however, that to get ness owing to the remains of the burr straight line. rid of the burr properly it must be bent being pressed against the edge. If, how- Fig. 5 shows under magnification two back and forth—like breaking a piece of ever, the cutter is now stropped a few edges (A and B), one finished on a coarse, wire. To do this on the strop would be times on the leather the edge is soon and the other on a medium stone. At C an awkward job because of the necessity restored. the edge has been well stropped so that of turning over the cutter at each stroke. The Edge Magnified. Examining an the points have virtually disappeared. Consequently most men use the hand as edge under a magnifying glass reveals Further Tests. We have already men- a strop as in Fig. 4. The cutter is drawn some curious features, chief amongst tioned that drawing the thumb across bevel downwards across the palm of the which is that an apparently keen edge is the edge to feel for the burr is not a suf- left hand as shown by the arrow. The left really more like a saw. Even a razor has ficient test of sharpness itself. It indicates hand is then turned palm downwards a finely serrated edge when seen under that the dullness has been worn away, and the cutter drawn upwards across the a powerful glass. It is all due to the and that the edge may be sharp, but it is palm again, but with the back touch- scratches made by the stone in sharpen- no indication of the quality of the edge ing the palm. This enables a rapid move- ing, and the size of the “teeth” depends (coarse or fine), neither does it reveal the ment to be made in which each stroke upon the coarseness of the stone. It fol- presence of any gashes. bends the burr the opposite way. lows, then, that for an important job, Sight is a test for both, but many men For a Super Fine Edge. Even then say, cleaning up a table top, a fine stone draw the thumb lightly along the edge. there will probably be a certain amount should always be used—at any rate for A keen edge grips the flesh without cut- of roughness where the burr breaks off, finishing off. It has two advantages; it ting, whilst a dull edge merely slides and when a really fine, keen edge is gives a cleaner result, and the edge lasts smoothly along. needed the latter should be drawn along longer. You can also tell by drawing the thumb at right angles across the edge. FIG. 5 (below). QUALITY OF THE Here again the sharp edge grips, whilst EDGE over the dull one the thumb just slides. If examined under a powerful glass the edge is more like a saw. The real value of feeling for the burr is Even a razor shows fine serrations. that it is a quick first test. You know that The finer the stone the smaller the edge cannot be sharp until the burr the “teeth.” The fine edge lasts longer as well as giving a better has been turned, and until this happens finish. It may be unnecessary for there is no need to examine the edge rough work, but is essential for closely. fine smoothing

FIG. 4 (above). STROPPING THE CUTTER ON THE HAND First one side, then the other is drawn across the palm

14 The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years SHARPENING THE CHISEL

LACE the chisel with the bevel flat Pon the stone and raise the hands slightly. This will give approximately the correct angle of 30 degrees (the grind- ing angle is about 25 degrees). (A) shows the two bevels. Work the chisel towards the sides of the stone to avoid making the latter hollow. When a burr has been turned up, reverse the chisel flat on the stone (C) and rub once or twice. Get rid of the burr by stropping the edge on a piece of leather dressed with fine emery powder and oil. Alternatively the hand can be used for stropping. When the chisel is being ground it is an advan- tage to have the corners ground off, as at B, as this enables it to work in awkward angles, as when dovetailing.

GETTING THE BEST OUT OF YOUR WORK: YOUR TOOLS

HE probability is that most hand alterations occasionally creep in—you Ttools have reached a stage of final- can buy a wood to-day with ity. They have come into their pres- adjustment for the cutter—but in gen- ent form as the result of what men have eral form it has not altered for the best found to be effective over many years, part of a century. The same thing is true and no one is able to suggest any seri- of most other tools. ous alteration that would improve their The reason that I mention this is that efficiency. It is rather like the case of the something of the sort applies also to the bicycle. When first invented there were methods of handling tools. Men who all sorts of queer types about, but they use tools every day, and whose liveli- were gradually eliminated, or merged hood depends upon their using them into one common pattern, so that for successfully, rapidly find out how to get the past fifty years there have not been the best out of them, and soon acquire any fundamental changes in its general an uncanny knack in handling them. I design. believe myself that if a young man with The same thing applies largely to no previous training were given a hand- hand tools. Take, for instance, the wood saw and were required to use it accu- plane. Craftsmen back in early Victo- SAFETY FIRST IN CHISELLING rately every day, he would soon find No matter what the operation, the left hand rian times used a jack plane practically is always kept behind the cutting edge. out the value of pointing his index fin- identical with that made to-day. Small Note how the index finger guides the blade ger along the handle, even though no

Sharpening 15    one ever suggested its advantage to him. an instance. A friend of mine is a tool So far as I know, there is no picture of Do not use a chisel maker, and one of his chief jobs is that a workshop of, say, Chippendale’s time for work for which it is of making wood planes in . When showing men engaged in sawing, but I unsuitable he has chopped away the bulk of the have no doubt that the cabinet makers wood at the escapement he pares down    of that time were up to the dodge, and in long, even cuts, the frog on which the pointed their fingers along their saws cutter lies. Obviously it has to be dead just as any capable craftsman does today. practices that belong to good crafts- true, and this necessitates a wide chisel Now, to find out things for oneself manship. Possibly not every craftsman (his is 2 ins. wide). in the grim school of experience has its will agree entirely with my own partic- Now have you ever tried to pare a piece advantages—possibly it is the best train- ular methods, but I can only say that the of hard timber, almost at end grain, and ing one can have—but life is short, and suggestions I shall offer will be based taking a cut 2 in. wide, using the normal to have these tricks pointed out to one on what experience has shown me to be bevelled edge chisel? I don’t say it can’t saves many a mistake and certainly a sound and reliable practice. be done, but what invariably happens great deal of time. And, after all, it is The Chisel. I suppose that most of us is that the pressure needed causes the only what has happened in craftsman- gradually acquire a collection of chis- chisel to bend a trifle, and spring with ship during the centuries. Just when els which we have found from experi- a sort of chatter, and once this happens a man found out the value of pointing ence to be most suitable for the work we it is almost impossible to cut a true sur- his finger along the saw handle (to use normally do. The commoner ones we face. It is because of this that the plane the same example) nobody knows, but buy in the quite early days, and the odd maker’s chisel is very thick, and is sharp- it is a thing that has been handed down sizes when we happen to have a job to ened with a moderate bevel which will for centuries. It is part of a great trade do needing a special size or kind. Now, stand up to the heavy work it has to do tradition. this question of picking a chisel suitable without the edge crumbling. It is a point It is for this reason that the Editor has for the work it is required to do seems worth bearing in mind because it shows asked me to point out some of the chisel to me of some importance. Let me give that, although the bevelled edge chisel

FIG. 1. HOW ANGLE OF BEVEL AFFECTS CUTTING ACTION FIG. 4. HOW SHARPEN- FIG. 5. CHISEL WITH Whilst a long, thin bevel will cut is way through softwood (A), ING FORMS A BURR GASHED EDGE its edge will rapidly crumble as at (B) if used for hardwood

FIG. 3. SHARPENING ANGLE

FIG. 2. GRINDING ANGLE This varies from about 15 FIG. 6. CUTTING ACTION FIG. 7. USEFUL STROP FOR CHISELS degrees up to about 25 degrees. Showing the necessity for avoiding Any piece of soft leather is suitable. It is dressed For average work 20 degrees is a dubbed edge with an abrazive such as pummice or emery powder about right

16 The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years is usually reserved (and is most suit- needed to cut heavy, dense woods (C). of hardwood as shown in Fig. 7. It can able) for paring, there are paring jobs for A fairly thick bevel is essential to enable be dressed with any fine abrasive—the which the heavier firmer chisel is better. the edge to cut without crumbling. If finest emery powder or pummice pow- On the other hand, when I had some one did always one kind of work there der mixed to a paste with Vaseline, or a very delicate model work to do some time would be no difficulty because the chis- valve grinding paste (used in the motor back, I went to my tool dealer’s for a 1∕ 2 in. els could be sharpened accordingly. The trade) does excellently. Crocus powder bevelled edge chisel, and was lucky average cabinet maker, however, works such as is used by carvers, though excel- enough to select one which for thinness in both and , and, lent for carving tools, is somewhat too and delicacy I have never seen equalled. short of keeping a double set of chisels, fine for chisels. The coarser abrasive does It is a sheer joy to use for light, close there is no option but to adopt a bevel of its work far more quickly. work. One would not dare to put any medium angle. One point to remember is that the extent of pressure upon it or to give any- The correct sharpening of a chisel is back must be held flat on the strop. Oth- thing but the lightest taps, but for the of considerable importance, and we erwise the edge will be dubbed over, and purpose for which it is intended it is may therefore dwell for a moment on it. it will be impossible to pare properly; the ideal. When first obtained the edge is ground, chisel will simply rise over any lumps on Choice of Chisels. In the ordinary but requires to be given a keen finish the surface of the wood instead of cut- way, presumably, one cannot be so fas- on the oilstone. The grinding angle is ting into the grain (Fig. 6). tidious, especially when one’s work var- from 15 to 25 degrees (Fig. 2), but this A second advantage of the strop is that ies. One buys a 1∕ 2 in. chisel, or what- is too thin for sharpening, except for use a keen edge can often be restored with- ever it may be, and it simply has to do on the softest of woods. The best plan out the necessity of rubbing down on for everything. That is why a medium is therefore is to place the chisel with the the stone; though of course the latter is struck in most tools; the bevelled edge bevel flat on the stone, and raise the han- necessary after several stroppings, or if chisel, for example, being sufficiently dle a trifle so that the angle is about 30 the edge is gashed. robust to withstand reasonably hard degrees (Fig. 3). For a chisel kept for Stropping on the Hand. Another usage. heavy work this could be increased to excellent way of getting rid of the burr If I were buying some chisels and about 35 degrees. A mortise chisel is an is to strop the chisel on the hand; in my normal work were for, say, furni- example. fact, personally I always do this first ture making, I think I should select a    before using the leather strop. It gets rid 11∕ 2 in. or 11∕ 4 in. bevelled edge long of the burr more quickly than the lat- chisel to use for general paring; a 1 in. Always have your chisels ter because first one side then the other firmer chisel for heavy bench work; also ground on a wet grindstone is drawn across the hand, and the burr, a 3 ∕4 in. and a 1∕ 2 in. firmer chisel for    in being bent back and forth is soon chopping dovetails, occasional mortises, loosened. The leather strop has rather and similar jobs; a 1∕ 4 in. firmer chisel I the effect of giving a keen edge than of This sharpening turns up a burr at the should also want for small work and for removing the burr. Fig. 8 shows how the back as in Fig. 4, and it can be detected cleaning out 5∕ 16 in. mortises (the most hand stropping is done; note how the by drawing the thumb across the edge common size); and after that it would all palm of the left hand is turned at each of the back. It is an indication that the depend upon the general class of work I stroke to allow the chisel to be drawn chisel is sharp, but it takes no account of went in for. For instance, a 1∕ 8 in. chisel across it. whether the edge is gashed. The simplest is often a necessity, and a 1∕ 16 in. size is It is obvious that sharpening the way of telling this is to hold it up to the also useful (though I never yet saw one chisel on the stone necessarily starts a light. A sharp edge is invisible; a dull one 1∕ 16 in. wide, they are invariably nearer new bevel, and continuous sharpening shows up as a white line, and in the same 3∕ 32 in.). gradually causes this bevel to become way any gashes show up as little spots of Angle of Bevel. Apart from the choice wider and wider, so that eventually it white (see Fig. 5). To get rid of the burr in the type of chisel, there is also the takes a long time to sharpen because so the chisel is reversed on the stone and question of sharpening it, and it is usu- much metal has to be removed. Fig. 9 held flat. One or two rubs are sufficient. ally necessary to strike a medium. The explains the idea. It is then time to have Stropping the Chisel. Personally ideal for softwoods is a long, thin bevel it re-ground so that a few rubs alone are I always like to strop a chisel. It gets producing a keen edge which will cut needed to produce an edge. Incidentally rid finally of the burr, and it gives an its way through the wood easily as at A, this sharpening question is always some- extra fine edge. What I use is a piece Fig. 1. At the other extreme is the chisel what of a bone of contention. There are of fine, supple leather glued to a piece

Sharpening 17 FIG. 9. THE SHARPENING BEVEL Continuous sharpening makes a wide bevel, hence the necessity for grinding

FIG. 10. CORNERS GROUND OFF even when the sharpening bevel runs This is easily done when grinding, and enables the chisel to be used in awkward right across the chisel, there is not much corners as shown FIG. 8. HOW CHISEL IS metal to remove, so that it is fairly STROPPED ON THE HAND easy to put on an edge with- The object of this is to get rid of out a great deal of unnec- being used dry, the temper of the chisel the burr quickly. The edge is drawn across the palm of the left hand, the latter essary rubbing. But wider is almost inevitably ruined. One last being reversed as shown so that both sides chisels to my mind take too long to rub point on the grinding question is that of the chisel are stropped down when the bevel becomes wide, and it is an excellent plan to have the cor- I prefer to have them ground. ners ground as shown in Fig. 10. Its great some craftsmen who never have a chisel On this question of grinding, always advantage is in such work as chopping ground. They begin to sharpen it at the insist that a wet stone is used. A reputa- dovetails for which a firmer chisel must bevel they require and keep it always at ble grinder would not use anything else. be used. The ground corner enables the the same. In the case of a narrow chisel, But I have known of cases when a carbo- tool to be used much closer up to the saw say, 1∕ 2 in. or less, I can understand that, rundum wheel has been used, and, this cuts as shown.

SHARPENING YOUR TOOLS: WOOD CARVING To be successful in carving your tools must be razor-like in the quality of their edges. You can’t do good work with blunt tools

IFFERING from ordinary wood- Dworking tools, carving tools are sharpened on both sides. In fact there is almost as much bevel on the inside of a gouge as the outside. Consequently it takes a long time to put new tools into condition. The outside bevel already exists, but it takes many sharpenings with the oilstone slip to produce the bevel inside. With new tools, then, once a satisfactory outside bevel has been attained, any subsequent sharpening should be done inside with the slip until FIG. 1. STAGES IN SHARPENING A GOUGE WITH OILSTONE AND SLIP To the left the outside bevel is being rubbed down. A is a section showing the eventually a good bevel has been pro- inside bevel. B. Forming the inside bevel with the oilstone slip. C. How outer duced here. corners are taken off to reduce the thickness

18 The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years The Gouge.Let us take an ordinary gouge; the size is immaterial as the prin- ciple is the same for all. Rub it on the oil- stone as shown in Fig. 1, using a rocking movement so that every part of the bevel is rubbed. The stone should be fine, but a coarse one can be used providing the tool is finished on a fine grade. The angle is low—about 15 deg. When a burr has been turned up a stone slip of the same FIG. 2. METHOD OF STROPPING. STROP IS DRESSED WITH OIL AND FINE EMERY curvature as the gouge or a little less is A shows the outer bevel being stropped. The strop lies flat on the bench. B. Use of special strop for inside bevel. C. Strop folded for use on inside bevel rubbed inside as at B, Fig. 1. Be careful to keep the edge and rub the tool equally along its entire edge. A shows the extent of the bevel that is ultimately formed. This shows the bev- els clearly defined for clearness, but in actual practice they should curve into the body of the tool gradually. It is a good plan to take off the corners of the gouge as at C, as it reduces a thickness which is often in the way when working in sharp angles and corners. When a tool has become gashed or its edge is out of shape it should be stood vertically on the stone and be rubbed until it is square, or the gash has been FIG. 3. SHARPENING V TOOL ON OILSTONE, AND USING SLIP A. How point is formed at corner of V tool. B. Reason why the point occurs. It is removed. The flat so formed gives a def- owing to the inner thickness at X. C. Rubbing corner of tool to remove the point. inite line up to which to work when D. Using slip to give inside bevel sharpening afresh. Stropping. To produce the superfine edge necessary for good work stropping that of stropping providing it is prop- surfaces have to be sharpened as in the is necessary. Obtain a piece of leather erly used. case of the gouge. Fig. 3 shows how each about 8 ins. by 3 ins., oil it to make it The inside of the tool is stropped also, bevel is rubbed down in turn, and the soft and pliable, and dress it with a mix- and a piece of leather glued round a suit- inside then dealt with as at D. There ture of oil and the finest emery powder. ably shaped block is excellent (see B). The is one important point to watch, how- It should be kept under cover because curvature of the block should be rather ever. If the bevels are just rubbed flat on large grit which may fall upon it will less than that of the tool. Another plan the stone and nothing more, a curious soon ruin the edges of tools. which is particularly useful for smaller point will be found at the corner as at Fig. 2 shows the first process, that tools is to fold up the strop as at C, or A. This is because the inside of the V of rubbing the bevelled side. Maintain even use just the edge to fit into acute tool, although theoretically a sharp cor- the same angle and revolve the tool as shapes. ner, is in reality slightly rounded (see B it is drawn diagonally backwards so that V Tools. These in a way may be at X). To get rid of this point the corner every part of the edge is reached. Never regarded as two chisels joined together of the tool must be rubbed lightly with dub over the edge in order to reach the at an angle, except that the inside a rocking movement as at C. It will be edge quickly. It is false economy in the realised that one reason why the inside long run because soon the strop will fail    corner is slightly rounded is that the oil- to produce an edge, and rubbing down Sharp tools are essential stone slip (see D) used for the inside on the stone becomes necessary. Actu- bevel is bound to lose its sharp corner, ally a carving tool will go for weeks or to good work and this causes a round rather than a months with no other attention than    sharp angle.

Sharpening 19

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