San Telmo San Telmo

2 3 NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES | | NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES | NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES SAN TELMO SAN TELMO San Telmo 4 MAP KEY 5 2 h1 Brasserie Petanque h30 Parque Lezama h2 Chochán h31 Museo Histórico Nacional AZOPARDO 3 Bar Seddon 32 1 h h Club Social Deluxe AV PASEO COL 4 El Banqueano 33 MÉXICO h h Hierba Buena 5 h5 Café La Poesía h34 Caseros 4 6 La Puerta Roja 2 3 BALCARCE h CHILE 7 Kirie Music Club ÓN 6 PERÚ MERCADO h SAN TELMO 8 Rubik Lounge PIEDRAS CHACABUCO 7 h 8 10 NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES | | NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES 9 Breoghan Brew Bar | NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES AV INDEPENDENCIA h 10 Bar Sur 14 9 h 11 La Brigada 18 13 11 10 h ESTADOS UNIDOS 12 12 El Banco Rojo DEFENSA BALCARCE h 16 15 h13 Gibraltar 17 18 CARLOS CALVO h14 Walrus Books CARLOS CALVO AV ING HUERGO 20 h15 L'Atelier de Celine 22 22 16 Cafe Town SAN TELMO 19 SAN TELMO 21 HUMBERTO PRIMO h h17 La Coruña h18 Bar El Federal 25 23 19 Sangardi BOLÍVAR 24 h AV SAN JUAN h20 San Pedro González Pedro Parish Church h21 Museo Penitenciario Argentino Antonio Ballvé AV PASEO COL 22 Plaza Dorrego 26 COCHABAMBA h AZOPARDO h23 Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires 26 h24 Museo del Cine AV JUAN DE GAREY 29 ÓN h25 Café San Juan La Cantina 28 27 h26 Doppleganger Bar 27 Russian Orthodox Church AV BRASIL 33 h 33 32 h28 Bar Británico 34 31 30 h29 El Hipopótamo AV CASEROS San Telmo 6 7 Buenos Aires VILLA PUEYRREDÓN COGHLAN COLEGIALES NÚÑEZ NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES | | NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES | NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES VILLA REAL SAAVEDRA BELGRANO VILLA URQUIZA PALERMO ORTÚZAR PARQUE VILLA CHAS AGRONOMÍA CHACARITA RECOLETA LA VILLA RETIRO PATERNAL CRESPO SAN SAN TELMO VILLA VILLA DEL San Telmo: You’ve read about its history, you’ve heard about SAN TELMO PARQUE NICOLÁS DEVOTO GRAL. PUERTO MITRE MONSERRAT its beauty, now let’s find out about its glory. San Telmo is a SANTA CABALLITO BALVANERA MADERO RITA ALMAGRO barrio of cobblestone streets and old-fashioned street lamps, FLORESTA SAN MONTE CASTRO CRISTÓBAL SARSFIELDVÉLEZ century-old colonial buildings and modern art galleries, an- PARQUE LA BOCA VILLA CHACABUCO BOEDO PARQUE tiques dealers and flea markets, parrillas and milongas. It’s a LURO FLORES PATRICIOS AVELLANEDAVILLA neighborhood with a rich and romantic heritage and is close- LINIERS NUEVA BARRACAS ly affiliated with Buenos Aires’ tango culture. It’s also a tour- POMPEYA MATADEROS ist mecca with a bohemian ambience and boundless drinking SAN TELMO VILLA and dining options. VILLA SOLDATI CONSTITUCIÓN LUGANO San Telmo is one of the oldest barrios in Buenos Aires and VERSALLES traces its history back to the 17th century. Over the years, ship- yard workers, noblemen, European immigrants and artsy types have left their mark on the barrio's character. The first to arrive were the dockyard workers, at a time when the barrio was considered to be a poor area. A Jesuit mission opened VILLA RIACHUELO in 1708 with the goal of educating impoverished residents. It was short lived, however, and closed in 1767. In 1806, the Parish of San Pedro González Telmo (San Telmo) launched another failed attempt to provide education. San Telmo is the patron saint of seafarers and the barrio's namesake. 8 San Telmo's fortunes began to change charm. Peer inside independent galleries, 9 in the mid-1800s when, following the in- antique shops and bookstores. Walrus stillation of lights, gas fittings and sewers, Books (walrus-books.com.ar, Estados it caught the eye of aristocrats and the Unidos 617) is a lovely little shop that well-to-do. They took advantage of cheap- sells used books in English. Stroll around er plots of land to build grand mansions San Telmo Market (Defensa 961) to find and townhouses. Unfortunately, this vintage clothing, record stores and an- mini golden era came to an end in 1871 tique sellers. Take a moment to admire when an outbreak of cholera forced peo- the market’s impressive 19th-century ple to move north to Recoleta and Retiro. wrought-iron structure. Go to Pasaje San San Telmo then experienced a revolution Lorenzo and check out the street art and in the late 19th century and early 20th unique architecture at places like La Casa century. The mansions made way for Mínima (Pasaje San Lorenzo 380). plazas or got converted into apartments. Culture vultures never lack for things NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES | | NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES Consequently, waves of European immi- to do in San Telmo. See contemporary art | NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES grants, artists and freethinkers moved exhibitions at the Museo de Arte Moderno into the area, hence the multicultural vibe. de Buenos Aires (MAMBA) (museodearte- Nowadays, San Telmo pays homage to moderno.buenosaires.gob.ar/, San Juan its history and remains a popular tour- 350). Notable artists represented include ist spot. It’s a short walk south from the Wassily Kandinsky and Joan Miró. Discover city’s central barrios of Monserrat and Argentina’s cinematic history at the Museo San Nicolás and is well-connected by bus- del Cine (Defensa 1220). Learn about es and the metro. The mix of architectural Argentina’s federal prison history at the beauty, shopping and nightlife make it Museo Penitenciario Argentino Antonio SAN TELMO many visitors' favorite barrio. If Palermo Ballvé (Humberto Primo 378). Admire the SAN TELMO is too commercial, Puerto Madero too architecture of the Jesuit-built San Pedro modern and Recoleta too expensive, then González Pedro Parish Church (Humberto San Telmo’s cheaper rents and livability Primo, next to the prison museum). could be right up your alley. Take a break from the crowds at Parque Lezama. Enjoy the large green Things to See & Do areas or check out the sculpture garden, A focal point of San Telmo is Plaza which includes a monument of Pedro de Dorrego, a square surrounded by bars Mendoza, one of Buenos Aires’ founding and restaurants. It’s a great place to sit fathers. Look for the colorful domes of and watch the world go by or catch an the Russian Orthodox Church (Brasil 315). impromptu tango show. This is espe- Afterward, find artifacts from Argentina’s cially the case on weekends, when the War of Independence, among other his- square turns into an open-air antiques torical objects, at the Museo Histórico and handicraft market. On Sundays, the Nacional (Defensa 1600). Feria de San Telmo stretches about ten blocks along Calle Defensa, between Cafes & Restaurants Plaza Dorrego and Plaza de Mayo. This Meat is plentiful here. La Brigada (parril- is the barrio’s busiest day, when tour- lalabrigada.com.ar, Estados Unidos 465) ists converge in masses. Browse the 250- is a favorite among locals and packs cus- plus market stalls for local handicrafts, tomers in elbow-to-elbow at its cluster of food, leather goods and art. Pause to tables. The rooftop terrace is perfect for a watch street performers, musicians and breezy, sunny day. tango dancers. For something other than beef, try El Don’t stress if you can’t go on a Sunday; Banqueano (restoelbaqueano.com, Chile on any given day, Calle Defensa presents 495). It specializes in unusual meats a wonderful glimpse into the barrio’s such as alligator, chinchilla and llama. 10 11 NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES | | NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES | NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES SAN TELMO SAN TELMO LA BRIGADA (PARRILLALABRIGADA.COM.AR, ESTADOS UNIDOS 465) This is a San Telmo restaurant at its best: tightly packed tables, patrons knocking elbows, suited waiters, a sweaty asador and great meat. It started with one floor but now has three, including a rooftop terrace. Order your meat jugoso (rare) and the waiter might just cut it with a spoon. Like La Cabrera, it's a bit pricier but the whole experience is a good value. 12 13 NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES | | NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES | NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES SAN TELMO SAN TELMO CHOCHÁN (FACEBOOK.COM/CHOCHANBUENOSAIRES, PIEDRAS 672), This place is almost exclusively dedicated to pork in its many incarnations. 14 15 NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES | | NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES | NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES SAN TELMO SAN TELMO EL HIPOPÓTAMO (BRASIL 401) El Hipopótamo opened in 1909 and looks frozen in time, complete with a checkerboard floor, fileteado artwork and old beer memorabilia. 16 Don’t miss Chochán (facebook.com/chochanbuenosaires, Piedras 672), either, which 17 is almost exclusively dedicated to pork in its many incarnations. Meanwhile, Caseros (Caseros 486) serves up modern takes on classic Argentine dishes in the form of prix- fixe menus. San Telmo also plays host to some fantastic international cuisine. Among the best spots are the French-style bistro Brasserie Petanque (brasseriepetanque.com, Defensa 596), the Mediterranean-influenced Club Social Deluxe (restaurantclubsocial.com, Caseros 442) and the excellent Basque-inspired Sagardi (sagardi.com.ar, Humberto Primo 319). L’Atelier de Celine (latelierdeceline.com.ar, Carlos Calvo 242) offers a fusion of Latin American ingredients with French influences. For a taste of Middle Eastern flavor, pick up a kebab or falafel from El Banco Rojo (Bolivar 914). Other delica- cies at this takeout joint include shrimp wraps, Philly cheesesteaks and hearty burgers. Should you be a health-conscious eater, check out Hierba Buena (hierbabuena.com. ar, Caseros 454). This organic deli prides itself on serving natural foods that not only NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES | | NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES fill you up but also nourish and cleanse your body. There’s a great selection of teas and | NEIGHBORHOOD GUIDES lemonades, too. Coffee lovers should make a pit stop at Coffee Town (coffeetownar- gentina.com, Bolívar 976), squeezed in amid the antique sellers and fruit stalls of San Telmo Market. All of the coffee is fair-trade and comes from as far afield as Ethiopia and Sumatra.

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