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TOP 10 BUENOS AIRES
DECLAN MCGARVEY JONATHAN SCHULTZ
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL 2 Contents Left Cover: Front – Carrasco b.Back –DKImages: DemetrioCarrasco tl,tc,tr. with American usage;iethe “first floor”isthefloor system, ortransmitted inany form orby any means, Copyright 2009©Dorling Kindersley Limited, Within eachWithin Top 10 list inthisbook,nohierarchy of publication may bereproduced,storedinaretrieval electronic, mechanical, or photocopying,recording, Every effortEvery hasbeenmadetoensurethatthisbookisasup-to-date aspossibleatthetimeof otherwise, withoutpriorwritten permissionofthe otherwise, American Copyright Conventions. Nopartofthis quality or popularity isimplied. orpopularity All 10quality are,inthe Floors arereferred tothroughoutinaccordance All rights reserved underInternationalandPan-All rightsreserved cannot accept responsibility for anycannot acceptresponsibility consequencesarisingfromtheuseofthisbook,norfor any websites, materialonthirdparty andcannotguaranteethatany website addressinthis book will be a suitable sourceoftravelbook willbeasuitable information. We value the views andsuggestionsof going to press. Some details, h going topress.Somedetails, Design, Editorial,andPicture Research, by copyright owner. Publishedby inGreatBritain Tango show Quadrum Solutions,Krishnamai,33B, Sir Pochkanwala Road, Worli, Mumbai,India DK Publishing,Inc.,375HudsonStreet, gallery hangingarrangements andtravelgallery information areliable to change. The publishers Reproduced by Colourscan,Singapore editor’s opinion,ofroughlyequalmerit. The information inthisDKEyewitness Top 10 Travel Guideischecked regularly. Published by intheUnitedStates A CIP catalogue recordisavailableA CIPcatalogue London, A Penguin Company our readers very highly.our readersvery Pleasewriteto:Publisher, DKEyewitness Travel Guides, Printed andboundinChinaby First American Edition,2009 New York,New York10014 Dorling Kindersley Limited. ISBN: 9780756639549 Leo Paper Products Ltd from theBritishLibrary. Alamy Images: James Brunker main;BlaineHarrington IIIbl.Spine– above groundlevel. 10 9876543 ISSN: 1479-344X Center Dorling Kindersley, 80Strand, London WC2R 0RL. Painting atKelly’s shop owever, such as telephone numbers,openinghours,prices, as owever, such Right MALBA 22 oet nHsoy 32 Moments inHistory Tango 26 Uruguay 24 Colonia delSacramento, 20 Avenida 9de Julio San Telmo 12 14 Bellas Artes Museo Nacionalde Avenida deMayo 8 Teatro Colón Recoleta 10 Cementerio dela Plaza deMayo Buenos Aires’ Highlights6 Buenos Aires’Top 10 Contents Cementerio delaRecoleta DK Images: Demetrio 18 16 Contents 3 64 Streetsmart Information Practical 102 Places to Stay General Index Phrase Book 112 118 126 Around Town Around Norte, Recoleta Barrio & Around & La Boca Telmo San Microcentro, Puerto 72 Madero & Retiro Madero & Retiro 86 Palermo Aires Buenos Beyond 80 94 Interior of Galerías Pacífico of Galerías Interior Right Congreso Nacional Congreso Café Tortoni Tortoni Café Right Center admission charge
Key to abbreviations abbreviations to Key Adm El Caminito, La Boca El Caminito, Exhibits at MALBA Exhibits at MALBA Left Left Tango Clubs and Milongas 44 Tango Festivals 42 Festivals Intimate Museums 40 Stores 38 Stores Gay Clubs and Hangouts Gay 48 Nightclubs 46 Nightclubs Argentinian Artisan Argentinian Artisan Plazas and Green Spaces Plazas and 36 Striking Buildings Striking Buildings 34 Activities for Children for Activities 60 Porteño Personalities Personalities Porteño 58 Restaurants 56 Parrillas 54 Parrillas Culinary Highlights 52
BUENOS AIRES’ TOP 10
Buenos Aires’
Highlights BUENOS AIRES’ TOP 10 6–7 Plaza de Mayo 8–9 Cementerio de la Recoleta 10–11 Teatro Colón 12–13 Avenida de Mayo 14–15 Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes 16–17 San Telmo 18–19 Avenida 9 de Julio 20–21 Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires 22–23 Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay 24–25 Tango 26–29 Buenos Aires’ Highlights Argentina’s romantic, reinvigorated soul, Buenos Aires is la Capital, where tango combos keep time in crowded milongas (dance halls), young men cry out deliriously at gargantuan soccer stadiums, and taxis swap lanes across some of the world’s widest avenues. Porteños, as the residents of this sophisticated metropolis are called, move to a rhythm all of their own, while making time to dine, dress, and even rest, extraordinarily well. With spectacular museums, lovely open spaces, and rich architecture brimming with history, the city is warm as well as energetic.
Plaza de $ 8 ! 7 2 $9 3 Mayo ( , 6 1 7 $ ,'$35 This square has seen $ 9 ( ( 6 ) , * 8 post-World Cup 1 , ' $ ( soccer victory dances 5 2$ ' ( $/ as well as the deaf- / & 2 / , % ( 5 5 7$ 7 ening silence of the $ ' 2 5 $9(1,'$* Mothers of the Plaza $9 Buenos Aires’ Top 10 1 de Mayo’s weekly ' 5( 3/$=$ 5HFROHWD (1(5 (<5 $/9($5 marches (see pp8–9). 38 $//$6+(5$6 $ ,' 1 ( 2 Cementerio de 9 $ @ $ la Recoleta & $// $9 As monument and metaphor for a country’s %DUULR1RUWH $ 9 fortunes – both gained and 6 $ 1 7 $ ) ( lost – la Recoleta contrasts 3/$=$ 52'5,*8(= impeccable mausoleums 3($ with crumbling marble $9( 1,'$
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9( &$//( centennial under scaffold- $ 3/$=$'(/ ing, the grandest of all Latin &21*5(62 American opera houses reopens in 2010 after an exhaustive restoration. El $9(1,'$ Colón is arguably the most beloved building in all of Argentina (see pp12–13). $9(1,'$
$9(1,'$(175(526 % Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes The modest scale of Argentina’s $9(1,'$ national fine art museum belies a wonder- fully curated permanent collection, which ranges from imposing Rodin bronzes to oils depicting the $ Avenida de Mayo mythical Buenos Aires’ prized avenue Argentinian is a boon to architecture buffs – Pampa. The it contains the continent’s best museum holds preserved Belle Époque, Art great works by Nouveau, and Art Deco address- many inter- es. Old bookstores and cafés add national artists to the charm (see pp14–15). (see pp16–17).
6 Preceding pages El Caminito, La Boca & Avenida 9 de Julio The grandest of Latin American avenues is flanked by dozens of cultural highlights, the biggest of which is Teatro Colón. Take care when crossing its 12-
lane width, which takes a few traffic-light Buenos Aires’ Top 10 cycles to accomplish (see pp20–21). ^ San Telmo Among the city’s oldest barrios, cobblestoned San Telmo guards the lyrical spirit of the bodegón – the quintessentially porteño bar/café where a vermouth or croissant can be arranged anytime. Lanes lined with 19th-century homes brim with performers on Sundays (see
pp18–19). 3 $ 5 $ 9 ( 9 ( 1 , '$ ( 6 1 , $ 3 ' 5 5 $ 78 (6 & 52 5 6&$ 2 Museo de Arte Latinoamericano 6 67,// 7 * 8 $ 0 1 ( de Buenos Aires (MALBA) % 2 5 ( $ 5 7 2 5 MALBA has quickly asserted itself since , 2 / % / / its 2001 opening. Its collection of Latin
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ZBSET NFUFST Tango ) Jaunty and humorous or dirge-like and mournful, tango – the capital’s dance, musical, and poetic art form – is still in full swoon, 120 years after its creation. With classes and performances galore, it is integral to the city’s culture and continues to captivate the people of Buenos Aires and the rest of the world (see pp26–29).
Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com 7 8 Buenos Aires’ Top 10 Plaza deMayocanstillofferaquietbenchtoreadthepaperorsip World Cupsoccervictoriesin1978and1986.Forallitsformidablehistory, greatest joys,fromthenavalattacksof1955topulsatingpartiesfollowing between hasbeenthesceneofArgentina’sfiercestinternalstrugglesand executive governmentaloffices,theCasaRosada.Thelandscapedspacein still managestoexudeanimposingauraoppositethemuchlargercurrent diminutive seatofpower,ElCabildo,isdivestedanyofficialduty,yetit is reflectedintheplaza’ssurroundings.The18th-centurygovernment’s radiate outwardfromPlazadeMayo.Nearlyeveryeraofthecity’shistory Like spokesonawheel,someofBuenosAires’mostimportantavenues gov.ar 5000; www.mecon. Yrigoyen 250;4349- Economía: CalleHipólito • Ministeriode catedral.htm www.arzbaires.org.ar/ Martín; 4331-2845; Rivadavia &Calle San Cnr Metropolitana: Avda. • LaCatedral www.cultura.gov.ar Bolívar 65;4342-6729; • ElCabildo:Calle museo.gov.ar 4344-3802; www. 216; Hipólito Yrigoyen • CasaRosada: Calle • MapF2 Plazoleta deSan Francisco Alsina 420). La Puerto Rico(Calle Café at away blocks coffee justtwo Have cakes and at 6pm. dance performances p15 de laCultura (see to thenearby Casa November, take atrip between March and If you are visiting ) for thefree Plaza deMayo ! meetings intheCasa ment building, builtin1725,ment building, can goback intime inthe Rosada guards acollectionofrelics building’s museum,contain- @ Its rearpatiohostsan pre-independence stature. that hintat Argentina’s ing artifacts from thecity’s Thursdays andFridays. artisans’ market on original fortification. 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Top 10Features Plazoleta deSanFrancisco Plazoleta MinisteriodeEconomía Protests MonumenttoGeneral Banco delaNación LasMadresdePlaza PirámidedeMayo La Catedral Metropolitana El Cabildo Casa Rosada Belgrano de Mayo The President holds Casa Rosada This viceroy govern- El Cabildo (above) . Visitors . Visitors
consecrated in1836. A This largeNeoClassical £ look insidereveals a cathedral Rococo-style altar andtheRococo-style altar liberator, GeneralJosé de mausoleum of Argentina’s San Martín. Metropolitana La Catedral (below) was maté. Pirámide de $ ^ Banco de la Mayo Nación The Pirámide (right) is dedi- The national bank cated to the revolutionaries contains an amusing of 1810, who orchestrated scale model of the Plaza
Argentina’s independence. as it appeared during the Buenos Aires’ Top 10 A nearby plaque commemo- bank’s mid-20th-century rates Julio López, a key construction, with fine witness who went missing details of pedestrians during a trial in 2006. and cars. Also a show- stopper is the building’s % Las Madres de Plaza de Mayo superb central dome. A plaza fixture since 1977, Las Madres are the defiant mothers of the young men and women who disappeared during the 1976–82 military dictatorship. Anyone is welcome to join in the weekly marches.
& Monument to General Belgrano Although not remem- bered as a great military tactician, General Manuel Belgrano is credited with designing Argentina’s flag. He is thus depicted on horseback bearing the national colors (above).
30 Years of Las Madres * Protests Heralded with rock Befitting the political concerts, TV specials, heart of the nation, lively and political interest, protests (left) are staged the Madres de la Plaza nearly every day in and de Mayo marked 30 around the Plaza. Always years in 2007. Despite a peaceful, an exception 1986 rift, the Madres’ was the riot of December message has never 2001 (see p33). been diluted or co- opted. Today, their ( Ministerio de ) Plazoleta de San efforts are directed Economía Francisco toward identifying The Economy Ministry This sculpture garden young adults who, as ushered in the Officialist contains four marble infants, were taken architectural style, later figures that previously away from their birth championed by Perón surrounded the Pirámide mothers, as well as (see p35). Check the lob- de Mayo. Individually, the bringing to justice ex- by for two brooding 1939 statues represent military officers from oil paintings by muralists Astronomy, Navigation, the dictatorship era. Naguil and Quirós. Geography, and Industry.
For information on Argentina’s history, See pp32–3. 9 Cementerio de la Recoleta One of the world’s great necropolises, the Recoleta Cemetery, located in the upscale, northern barrio of the same name, has been the burial place of choice for Argentina’s elite since the mid-19th century. Presidents, military generals, artists, aristocracy, and, most famously, Eva Perón lie interred here in fabulous mausoleums of granite and bronze. Built tightly against each other, the tombs are visited via a labyrinth of streets and narrow passage- ways. The architectural styles are numerous and fascinating: grandiose Greek temples stand adjacent to diminutive Egyptian pyramids and Art Nouveau vaults are next to monumental cenotaphs. Added in 1881, an imposing Doric- columned entrance protects this extraordinary city of the dead.
Top 10 Features 1 Eva Duarte de Perón 2 The Leloir Family 3 Domingo Faustino Sarmiento
Buenos Aires’ Top 10 4 Benediction Chapel 5 José C. Paz Benediction Chapel 6 Pantheon of Outstanding A number of tour Citizens operators arrange 7 Dorrego-Ortíz Basualdo walking tours of the 8 Carlos Pellegrini cemetery. Eternautas 9 William Brown (5031-9916; www. 0 Pantheon of the Fallen in the eternautas.com), run 1890 Revolution by a team of local historians, is among Eva Duarte de Perón the best. You can also ! Evita lies embalmed buy a map at the within this rather modest cemetery entrance. family vault (below). Tribute plaques inscribed with fiery Grab a coffee at La quotes such as, “I will Biela (see p70), a return and be millions!” Parisian-style café crowd its walls and flowers and one-time haunt always adorn its entrance. # Domingo Faustino of the city’s Sarmiento intelligentsia and Sarmiento, president of the automobile Argentina from 1868 to racing fraternity. 1874, was a Freemason. His tomb, which he • Map N4 designed himself, bears • Junín 1760, btwn Masonic symbols such as Guido and Vicente López pyramids, compasses, and • 4803-1594 the “all-seeing eye.” • Open 7am–6pm daily @ The Leloir Family • Free English-language Built in the style of a $ Benediction Chapel guided tours: 11am Tue Greek temple, this grandi- This 1882 chapel is & Thu ose family mausoleum unusual for the remarkable embodies the ambition and crucifix that stands over its confidence of Argentina’s small altar. Sculpted from 19th-century elite. Like marble by Italian artist many other tombs here, its Giulio Monteverde, the sculptures were fashioned Cristo Morto shows Christ in the studios of Europe. in death, on the cross.
10 % José C. Paz Resting place of the founder of La Prensa newspaper, this is the cemetry’s most beautiful
monument (left). An Buenos Aires’ Top 10 allegory of the immortal soul, it depicts an angel leaving its body and hois- ting the soul heavenward. ^ Pantheon of Outstanding Citizens This historical corner of the cemetery contains the tombs of several Independence-era heroes. Alongside the tombs, cenotaphs commemorate other pivotal figures from the same period.
& Dorrego-Ortíz Basualdo This sepulcher (above) features both a crucifix and a menorah, symbol- izing the conversion from Judaism to Catholicism of this family’s ancestors on arrival in Argentina in the 16th century. * Carlos Pellegrini As president in 1890, Pellegrini steered the country through a severe financial crisis. His magnificent tomb sees him issuing orders from atop his coffin. A female figure and child, symbol- izing the republic and its future, stand at his feet.
Origins of the ( William Brown Brown’s fame as founder Cementerio de of Argentina’s navy is over- la Recoleta shadowed in death by the This cemetery was built tragic story of his daughter, in 1822, on what was whose ashes lie here too. then the northern limit She drowned herself after of the city. The land was her fiance’s death. confiscated by the Argentinian government Pantheon of ) from the Recoleta the Fallen in the monks of the adjacent 1890 Revolution Pilar Church. The city’s This memorial (right) first public cemetery, it remembers the dead was used initially for the from the failed revolu- burial of freed slaves tion. Sculptures depict and the proletariat workers brandishing before it became the rifles. Several leaders of reserve of the rich from the Radical Party are 1860s onward. buried here.
Souvenir books on the cemetery can be bought at the information 11 stand near the entrance. Proceeds go to cemetery upkeep. 12 Buenos Aires’ Top 10 palcos fillupeverynight,astheyhaveformorethan100years. theater’s currentrenovation,oncecomplete,willseeLaSala’s bygone era.Talesofthetheater’sconstructionreadlikeaVerdilibretto.The 1908 completion,andtoexperiencetheColón’sgrandeurisvisitthat regularly heardonthestreetsofNewYorkandParisaroundtheater’s Classical structurerepresentsfarmore.“RichasanArgentine”wasaphrase Colón ranksamongtheworld’stopoperahouses.YetforPorteños,Neo- For itssheersize,near-perfectacoustics,andstatelyelegance,theTeatro teatrocolon.org.ar teatrocolon.org.ar tour US$4•www. recommended); tours strongly for English-language 3pm Sun(reservations 3pm Sat;11am, 1pm, Mon–Fri; 9am,11am, tours: 11am &3pm • English-language (varies)• Adm until 2010 • Closedfor renovation & Viamonte •4378-7344 • Cerrito, btwn Tucumán • MapP5 Façade of Teatro Colón confitería El Petit Colón and dessert at Grab acappuccino absurd 2pesos. available atan select seatsare program, when Pesos concert El ColónporDos Check aheadfor Teatro Colón (see p57) .
! (below). Four kindsof colonnades andadazzling employed inthefoyer’s European marblewere Colón’s entrancehall dome distinguishthe Belle Époquestained-glass 3 2 1 Top 10Features 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 construction, indicatinghow highly prized Old World were inthedesign. materials andcraftsmanship Workshops Pasaje delosCarruajes La Cúpula Library El Paraíso La Sala Vitreaux Official ElSalóndeBustos& Entrance Hall El SalónDorado Neo-Romanesque Entrance Hall Boxes are reserved forare reserved digni- de Bustos,these taries, thepresident,andtaries, Most porteñossay that the municipalgovernor. in theseboxes, which are much politicking occurs on guidedtours. accessible tothepublic # Busts of Wagner, Rossini, @ and Beethoven keep watch in theentrancehallbelow. over theatergoerspassing The GoldenSalonis and specialexhibitions are Chamber-music concerts Versailles-worthy Baroque. held here. Reached viaElSalón Official Boxes & ElSalónDorado El SalóndeBustos balcones and palcos
La Sala % There is no such thing as a bad seat within the Colón’s auditorium, where
upward of 2,500 Buenos Aires’ Top 10 spectators (right) $ Vitreaux seated in red velvet The massive vitreaux seats are treated to (above) in the entrance hall is acoustics only impressive, but do not miss afforded by a thea- the pair in El Salón Dorado, ter with the optimal depicting Greek mythology. horse-shoe shape. ^ El Paraíso The cheapest “seats” also happen to boast some of the best acoustics. Here, in the ironically named Paraíso (Paradise), more than 500 standing audience members can pack in. Optimal sight lines, however, are guaranteed only for early arrivals. & Library El Colón’s formidable archives, accessible to all, contain first-edition librettos, artifacts from past performances, and rich ballet and opera reference materials. The library’s main attraction is its complete set of programs from theater performances, dating * La Cúpula from its 1908 opening. A 3,423-sq ft (318-sq m) dome above La Sala’s A Fraught floor forms the crown on el Colón (left). Its original Opening Act paintings deteriorated – The Colón’s cornerstone the present ones were was laid in 1889, yet the rendered in the 1960s. theater would not open for two decades. The ( Pasaje de los Carruajes lead architect died At the top of the entrance hall stairs is this during construction, narrow hallway where, prior to the automobile’s leaving his assistant in popularization in Buenos Aires, carriage drivers would charge until his own pick up and drop off their affluent charges. death in 1904, followed by the chief financier’s Workshops ) assassination. A Belgian In the three then inherited the basements, artisans project, imparting many construct sets, sew French Baroque costumes, and design touches. Verdi’s Aida props. Performers hold finally inaugurated the rehearsals on the house in 1908. replicated stage (right).
Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com 13 14 Buenos Aires’ Top 10 teak carsrattlealongthecity’soldestsubway,LíneaA. Aires’ oldestbars,cafés,andbookstoresarehere,whileunderfoot,polished textbook studyoflate-19th-andearly-20th-centuryforms.SomeBuenos Nouveau, andArtDecofaçadesinvaryingstatesofrepaircoalesceintoa buildings canrenderevenacasualarchitecturebuffmute.BelleÉpoque,Art and storesdotheirbesttodiminishthegrandeur,AvenidadeMayo’s Casa Rosada,breakingmidwayat9deJulio.Whiletoday’smundaneshops by uncharacteristicallywidesidewalks,linkstheNationalCongressto that BuenosAireswasacosmopolitancity.TheParisian-styleboulevard,lined From itsinception,AvenidadeMayowasanemphaticstatementtotheworld buenosaires.gov.ar 4323-9407; www. Avda. deMayo 575; • CasadelaCultura: balirica.org.ar 4381-0662; www. de Mayo 1222; • Teatro Avenida: Avda. 4345-8800 Mayo 769–777; • Palacio Vera: Avda. de 71; 4381-5696 Avda. deMayo 1265– • Café Los 36Billares: 4383-5000 de Mayo 1152; • HotelCastelar: Avda. 4383-1065 de Mayo 1370; • Palacio Barolo: Avda. 1297; 4383-7877 • HotelChile: Avda. • Casa delaCultura Map E2 tortilla española. and CalleSalta)for (cnr Avda. deMayo Stop atCafé Iberia a relaxed stroll. 13 blocks, makingfor The Avenida isjust Avenida deMayo Built in1910, thisdistin- ! guished building of thePlazadelosDos Congresos takesitsdesign and accentedby goldand Art Nouveau. Itputsonits from the Italian Neo- from theItalian blue mosaictiles,Hotel best face ontheoutside. @ Renaissance movement. Chile 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Top 10Features CasadelaCultura Edificio Drabble Teatro Avenida Palacio Vera Café Los 36Billares Café Tortoni Hotel Castelar Palacio Barolo Hotel Chile EdificiolaInmobiliaria Inmobiliaria Edificio la Painted brilliantwhite Hotel Chile (right) isrhapsodically (above) (above) (see p34)completionin 1935. Itslobby hasvaulted built in1923, was the elevator cages. tiles, andwrought-iron intricately patterned floor ceilings, gargoyle motifs, untiltheKavanagh’stallest £ This ornatebuilding, Palacio Barolo $956(1=3($
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&$//( $ Hotel Castelar Its name flows elegantly % Café Tortoni across its awning, an emblem The Tortoni (right) offers tango, coffee, and of the Avenida’s bygone el- conversation. It is the city’s oldest café, having egance. The Castelar (above), opened in 1858, and which opened in 1929, is intrinsic to any lodged the Spanish novelist discussion of the Federico García Lorca. city’s lore (see p26).
^ Café Los 36 Billares 36 Billares (center) is an 1894 dandy, sporting a Movado clock, rich wood paneling, and a billiards hall, thick with smoke and ambience. It offers great coffee, tango shows, and lessons. & Palacio Vera In this Avenida building’s lobby, visitors can gawk at the sixth- story glass vitreaux and delicate molding. El Túnel and El Ventanal are two of the most evocative vin- tage bookstores in town.
Teatro Avenida * New Avenue, The Teatro Avenida (right) was founded in New Attitude 1908 to promote the Avenida de Mayo was Spanish light opera Buenos Aires’ first fully tradition of the zarzuela. planned boulevard, a Following a fire in 1979, project whose scale and it was restored to its old expense had never splendor and re- before been imagined opened in 1994. on the continent. Torcuato de Alvear (see ( Edificio Drabble ) Casa de la Cultura p59) referenced Paris’ The 1893 Edificio Casa de la Cultura, Belle Époque-spawned Drabble once housed the former home of the urban planning in the upscale hotel Chacabuco newspaper La Prensa, 1880s, but by the time Mansions. Today, its is pure Neo-Baroque. architects started crumbling balconies and The culture ministry desk building, Art Nouveau Mansard roof are inside offers a program was the rage, resulting reminders of the city’s of the cultural events in in the present structure. temperamental fortunes. the city.
Non-guests can take advantage of Hotel Castelar’s renowned day 15 spa (open 10am–9pm Mon–Fri, 8am–8pm Sat–Sun). Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes The outstanding National Museum of Fine Arts was founded in 1896 as part of a drive to inculcate a taste for the arts in Argentina. It moved to its present location in 1932, and today preserves over 12,000 works of art. Around 800 of these are in permanent collections boasting the greatest gathering of international masters in Latin America. On display are works by Rubens, Rembrandt, Goya, Rodin, Monet, Renoir, Cezanne, Van Gogh, Picasso, Kandinsky, Pollock, Miró, and Rothko. Argentinian greats to look out for here include Cándido López, Antonio Berni, Benito Quinquela Martín, and Guillermo Kuitca. MNBA Poster
Top 10 Features 1 Hirsch Collection 2 Francisco de Goya y Lucientes
Buenos Aires’ Top 10 3 Graphic Arts 1940–70 4 Pre-Columbian Andean Exterior of MNBA Textiles 5 Hand-held audio Di Tella Collection guides in Spanish 6 Quirós’ Collection and English can be 7 1960s Argentinian Art: rented from the gift The New Figuration shop on the ground 8 Sculpture Patio floor, which also 9 Mercedes Santamarina stocks excellent Collection written guides to 0 the museum. 1970s Argentinian Art: Realism Located behind the museum, the sleek Modena Design restaurant has tasty snacks and a full menu, plus an outside terrace. @ Francisco de Goya • Map N3 y Lucientes • Avda. del Libertador Goya’s oil paintings (1808– 1473 12) of the Napoleonic Wars • 4801-3390 ! Hirsch Collection depict battlefield scenes in • Open 12:30–8:30pm Located within the desolate black-gray Tue–Fri; 9:30am–8:30pm Old Masters wing, this landscapes, lit only by the Sat–Sun collection features 16th- orange and red of fire and • www.mnba.org.ar and 17th-century Dutch and bloodletting (below). • Modena Design:Avda. Flemish artists, including Figueroa Alcorta works by Rubens and 2220/70; 4809-0567 Rembrandt; the latter’s Portrait of the Artist’s Sister (above) is a brilliant study in light and shade. A French tapestry from 1627 and a stunning Venetian Neptune bronze complete the salon.
16 If pushed for time, head straight for the stunning modern masters’ exhibits – turn right at the main entrance hall. Pre-Columbian $ Andean Textiles Shawls, ponchos, and headdresses here date from the Nazca (0–600
AD) and Chancay (900– Buenos Aires’ Top 10 1476 AD) cultures of # Graphic Arts modern-day Peru (right). 1940–70 Socialist artists in the % Di Tella Collection ^ Quirós Collection 1960s revived engraving Spread throughout Cesáreo Bernaldo de in Argentina. Antonio the museum, this collec- Quirós’ paintings idealize Berni was its greatest tion finds best expression the wild gaucho as the exponent. His innovative in the European avant- final stand against 3-D technique is seen in garde and American modernization and urban- The Bullfighter (above). abstract art sections. ization. The Butcher and Don Juan Sandoval, the Boss (below) are iconic.
& 1960s Argentinian Art: The New Figuration In 1961, four Argentinian artists depicted social breakdown and individual alienation. The fragmen- ted forms in their works replace unity with chaos.
Museum Guide * Sculpture Patio ( Mercedes Naturalistic sculp- Santamarina The museum’s perma- tures (right) by Collection nent collections are set Argentinian artists Pastels by Degas and chronologically across girdle the museum’s bronzes sculpted by three floors. The first terrace, where the Rodin are the floor displays inter- contours of highlights here. national art from the Pedro Zonza Ming-dynasty cera- Middle Ages to the 20th Briano’s Be mics and paintings century; the second Fruitful and by Renoir and floor, Argentinian art Multiply ooze Cezanne complete from the 19th and 20th sensuality. this collection. centuries, and Latin American art; the third ) 1970s Argentinian Art: Realism floor, photography and In the 1970s, Argentinian artists addressed the sculpture. A ground horrors of the Junta years. Segui’s The Distance of level pavilion hosts the Gaze portrays desolation. Heredia’s The Gaggings temporary exhibitions. expresses terror and censure via absent screams.
Film screenings take place in the museum’s second-floor 17 auditorium daily. San Telmo The heart of colonial Buenos Aires, lovely San Telmo is the city’s most romantic neighborhood with its cobblestone streets, colonial houses, Spanish churches, and antiques stores. It was first inhabited by elite families who fled during a yellow fever outbreak in 1871, their mansions becoming tenement houses or conventillos for poor European immigrants. San Telmo soon became a melting pot of cultures, a working-class stronghold, and later, a Bohemian quarter synonymous with tango. Newly fashionable and sprinkled with slick loft apartments, chic restau- rants, and boutique hotels, it retains an engagingly gritty feel. Antique jar
Top 10 Features 1 Plaza Dorrego 2 Feria de Antigüedades 3 Parque Lezama
Buenos Aires’ Top 10 4 Monumento del Canto al Trabajo Street market, San Telmo 5 Museo de Arte Moderno 6 There are numerous Street Performers places to watch 7 Mercado de San Telmo tango in San Telmo. 8 Balconies El Viejo Almacén (see 9 Iglesia Nuestra Señora p45) and Bar Sur de Belén (Estados Unidos 299; 0 Pasaje de la Defensa 4362-6086) are two of the best. ! Plaza Dorrego At the heart of San A great place for a Telmo, picturesque Plaza snack is El Federal Dorrego dates from the (see p57) , a bar-café. colonial period and is ringed by antiques stores, • Map F4 old tango bars, and sepia- • Feria de Antigüedades: toned cafés. Open 10am–5pm Sun @ Feria de • Museo de Arte Antigüedades Moderno: Avda. San This Sunday antiques fair Juan 350; 4361-1121; (left) has been taking place www.aamamba.com.ar; on Plaza Dorrego since 4342-2970 1970. Items range from • Street performers: 19th-century Art-Nouveau Calle Defensa btwn ornaments to the kooky Plaza Dorrego & Avda. and kitschy. Rummage Belgrano around for a bargain. • Mercado de San Telmo: Avda. Carlos Parque Lezama # Calvo and Bolívar A popular recreation • Iglesia Nuestra Senora: area, this park (right) is Avda. Humberto Primo believed to be the spot 378 where Buenos Aires was • Pasaje la Defensa: founded. A statue of the Defensa 1179 city’s founder, Pedro de Mendoza, stands at the park’s northwestern corner.
18 The no. 29 bus line connects San Telmo to La Boca. On its return it descends Calle Defensa, stopping at Plaza Dorrego. $9(1,'$
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^ Street Performers On Sundays, bands (above) cram the side- walks of Calle Defensa while dancers perform on the cobblestone path. Tango is a big draw here. & Mercado de San Telmo This 1890s indoor market (below) retains its original structure. Food and meat stalls occupy the central patio, while knick-knacks are in the outer spaces.
* Balconies ( Iglesia Nuestra San Telmo’s antique Señora de Belén balconies (below) range Built in 1733, this church from wrought iron to has a Neo-Baroque balustraded stone and façade and Andalusian span several styles. towers, which were The Founding of Many are hung with laun- added in 1852. The inte- dry or bird cages, offer- rior reflects the church’s Buenos Aires ing a glimpse into San colonial origins, with nine In 1536, Spanish explor- Telmo’s working class. altars and saints’ statues. er Pedro de Mendoza led an expedition to the ) Pasaje de la River Plate. He built a Defensa settlement at Parque This residence built for Lezama, calling the the Ezeiza family in 1872 town Nuestra Señora later became a conven- Santa María del Buen tillo housing over 30 Aire. Faced with attack immigrant families at a from the natives, the time. Today it is home to settlement was aban- a colorful flea market. doned in 1541(see p42).
If you have only one day to enjoy San Telmo make it a Sunday, 19 when the famous antiques fair takes place. 20 Buenos Aires’ Top 10 Avenida’s widthdoesnotletpedestrianscrossinonetraffic-signalcycle. moves atabreakneckpace,conversationgetsswallowedbynoise,andthe showcases publicartandsomeofthecity’sprimeattractions.Still,traffic To theircredit,theplannersdesigneda churches, includingthe18th-centurySanNicoláscathedral,becamelandfill. displaced whentheprojectbrokegroundin1937.Thegrandhousesand — fromAvenidaAlemtoPlazaConstituciónonlyin1980.Thousandswere is amongthecity’syoungestpublicworks,havingreacheditscurrentlength crumbling sidewalks,the460-ft(140-m)wide,12-laneAvenida9deJulio Though itappearsasintegratedintothecityscaperubbertreesand mifb.htm buenosaires.gov.ar/ www.museos. Tue–Sun; admUS$1; 4327-0272; open 2–7pm Calle Suipacha 1422; Hispanoamericano: • Museode Arte cameras andpurses hours; keep watch on 4306-7919; open24 Cnr CallesLima&Brasil; Constitución:• Estación Sat–Sun 5pm Tue–Fri,1:30–6pm 2930; open10:30am– Calle Cerrito 1399; 4515- • French Embassy: • MapP6 Calle Levalle 4325-5200) del Libertador 500; at Winery glass ofMalbec Treat yourself to a sophisticated street. Retiro’s most Arroyo to glimpse the curvingCalle Take adetour down Avenida 9deJulio (Avda. .
! French Embassy under the Avenida’s original ofthecapital’sanniversary commemorates the400th 1913-Belle Époque-styled blueprints, thefine founding andisthesitefor @ and rallies concerts, performances, was sparedafter protests. 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Top 10Features wonderful wroughtironand Plazoleta Plazoleta Cataluña Mansión Alzaga Unzué Museo de Arte Calle Estación Constitución Ex-Ministry ofPublic Works Estatua delQuijote Teatro Colón French Embassy El Obelisco The Colón(right) isan glass-covered workshops Fernández Blanco Hispanoamericano Isaac Slated for demolition French Embassy This monument(right) El Obelisco engineering marvel. Itsengineering marvel. building jut outfromthemain Levalle Teatro Colón . (see pp12–13) . (above) plazoleta-peppered thoroughfarethat
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$9(1,'$ &255,(17(6 *OEFQFOEFODJB 5SJCVOBMFT confitería bite at the Petit Colón bite at the Petit Colón, followed by a by Colón, followed mances at the Teatro Teatro mances at the tour or check out perfor- tour or check Avenida Alvear. Avenida Carlos Pellegrini. Take a Take Carlos Pellegrini. Cataluña heading before into the Recoleta along and move northward up northward and move Embassy to the Plaza An Avenida Amble Start at the Obelisco Walk beyond the French the French beyond Walk astical art and antiquities. astical art and antiquities. * Neo-Colonial style This mansion Blanco the Fernández collection of colonial Latin American ecclesi- & especially after nightfall. especially after bingo parlors, second-run bingo parlors, second-run houses, and movie restaurants. It chintzy a gaudy charm, exudes section is lined with section is lined with Isaac Fernández Isaac Fernández Blanco traveldk.com . (see p112) built built (left), is the city’s is the city’s Estación Constitución Mansión Alzaga Mansión Alzaga Unzué grandest train station. ^ a six-year After restoration, this 1887 Arts Beaux structure (above) Seasons hotel an annex of the Four of the Four an annex porteño family, is today is today porteño family, in 1919 for an aristocratic an aristocratic for in 1919 The Louis XIII-style Louis The Alzaga Unzué ( tromp l’oeil treatment. Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on email newsletter Sign up for DK’s
Plazoleta Cataluña Plazoleta Cataluña a Rambla- is distinguished by Ex-Ministry of Ex-Ministry Public Works Estatua del Estatua Quijote
French Embassy. French and French chateau-style chateau-style and French Avenida structure spared spared structure Avenida demolition besides the stone base. stone base. style fountain lamp gifted by Barcelona’s governors governors Barcelona’s by style fountain lamp gifted building was the only the only building was
mid-gallop in dramatic mid-gallop in dramatic on a white bronze ) This hulking 1936 federal federal hulking 1936 This % $ gran- Cervántes’ Miguel Don diose anti-hero is cast here in Quixote 22 Buenos Aires’ Top 10 collection ortakinginanart-housefilmfindthescalesurprisinglyintimate. recordings, andphotographs.Yetvisitorsstrollingthroughthepermanent Art, thebuildinghasbeenaccusedofdiminishingitspaintings,sculptures, institution knownasMALBA.LikeNewYork’srevampedMuseumofModern prized Latin-Americanartworks,haslodgedinthemodern,airy,multilevel the ConstantiniCollection,apreviouslynomadiccacheofmorethan200 new pillarofnationalcultureroseinPalermoChico.SinceSeptember2001 Almost atthesametimeascollapseofArgentinianeconomy,avital de BuenosAires(MALBA) • www.malba.org.ar Wed • Adm US$15; freeentry Wed; 9am–1pm Thu–Sat open 9am–9pmSun– • MALBA’s Restaurant: closed Tue Mon; noon–9pm Wed; • Opennoon–8pm Thu– 3415 •4808-6500 • Avda. Figueroa Alcorta • MapM2 MALBA’s façade lunch optionstoo. offers dozens of (see p39) Paseo Alcorta’s modern setting. fare inabright, serves international MALBA’s restaurant vation inadvance. who make areser- available for groups guided tours are English-language Museo deArteLatinoamericano food court European masters. comparisons to earned himmany light heachieved The warmth and (see p88)isatthe imaginativeWildly Solar @ height ofhispowers with 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Top 10Features Frida Kahlo – Autoretrato ErnestoDeira–Nine AntonioBerni – Fernando Botero – GuillermoKuitca – MALBA Cine AntonioSeguí–LaDistancia Pablo CuratellaManes– XulSolar–Pareja (1923) Tiendamalba con ChangoyLoro (1942) Manifestación (1934) (1968)Los Viudos Various Pieces (1922)El Acordeonista Variations Over a Well-Tensed de laMirada(1976) Canvas (1965) – Pareja (1923) Xul Solar Pareja (below). Entrance 1 Acordeonista father Juan Griswhilein befriended Cubismgod- This sculptor 20th-century £ Paris inthe1920s. The seen in Spaniard’s influence is ! stocks therequisitepost- cards andbooks,but apart areitsplushdolls, what sets Tiendamalba and knick-knacks leather cow figurines, Manes –El Pablo Curatella Tiendamalba MALBA’s gift shop El Acordeonista. (1922) (below). 6 4 2 5 3 % MALBA Cine From Thursday to Sunday, the city’s cineastes descend on MALBA to take in international art-house, cult- classic, and domestic films (left).
MALBA’s programmers include some Buenos Aires’ Top 10 Abbot and Costello comedies amid the Jean-Luc Godard thought pieces. $ Antonio Seguí – La Distancia ^ Guillermo Kuitca – de la Mirada (1976) Various Pieces Antonio Seguí, a native of Córdoba, Having occupied the Argentinian injects a bit of humor into his otherwise Pavilion at the Venice Biennale in 2007 dystopian graphite and oil pieces. On a and worked in a wide range of media, background of gray planes, la Mirada’s Kuitca is the most famous in the English bulldog gazes out at the contemporary art scene (below). viewer indifferently.
& Fernando Botero – Los Viudos (1968) 0 Fernando Botero might Key today be known for his 8 7 First floor controversial Abu Ghraib painting series but his Second floor 9 legacy are the rotund figures in Los Viudos Third floor and other similar works. * Antonio Berni – Manifestación (1934) Berni was a great proponent of social realism. Evident in Manifestación (below) is his previous dabbling in surrealism.
The New Argentinian Avant-Garde Paradoxically, the period following the 2001–2002 economic crisis saw Buenos Aires’ commer- cial art scene explode. Artists retreated to La Boca, Almagro, and ( Ernesto Deira – ) Frida Kahlo – Barrancas’ decrepit Nine Variations Autoretrato con homes and warehouses Over a Well-Tensed Chango y Loro (1942) to produce aesthetic Canvas (1965) Mexican Surrealism is responses – often Occupying nine canvases represented in this self- mixed-media and digital on an entire wall, this portrait containing two of art – to the chaos befal- work’s subtext exalts in, Kahlo’s favorite motifs – ling their country. and questions, chaos. birds and monkeys.
MALBA can be enjoyed in an afternoon. 23 Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay Neither the world’s widest river delta nor a sovereign border can distance Colonia del Sacramento, or simply “Colonia,” from Buenos Aires’ orbit. Modern ferries departing from Puerto Madero whisk passengers (with passports) across. Pesos circulate freely among the local currency, the uruguayo, as do wisps of woodsmoke carrying the aroma of grilled beef. But it is the contrasts between Buenos Aires and this UNESCO-recognized, former Portuguese maritime stronghold, established in 1680, that make Colonia worth a visit. Whereas the Río de la Plata is hidden from Buenos Aires’ view, it is everywhere here, lapping sandy beaches, reflecting the peninsula’s emblematic lighthouse, and swallowing the setting sun.
Top 10 Features 1 Plaza Mayor 2 Museo Portugues 3 El Faro & Convento de
Buenos Aires’ Top 10 San Francisco 4 Real de San Carlos El Portón de Campo 5 Casa Nacarello 6 Arrive at Buquebus’ Playa Ferrando Puerto Madero 7 Iglesia Matriz terminal at least 8 Calle de los Suspiros an hour before 9 El Portón de Campo departure, as check- 0 Rambla Costanera in lines can be formidable, especially on weekends.
Food is prepared uniformly well in the the historic district’s kitchens, but for a menu and decor as eclectic as ! Plaza Mayor anything in Palermo The Plaza Mayor (above) £ El Faro & Convento Viejo, visit El has stately palms and de San Francisco Drugstore (see p99). colonies of Austral parrots. The 1857 lighthouse Ringed by many museums, (below) pulls off the neat • Map B4 it makes a good starting trick of incorporating the • Museums: open point for exploring the ruins of a late 17th-century 11am–4:45pm daily; peninsula’s cobbled streets. convent into its form. museum pass: US$1.5; pass can be bought at @ Museo Portugues the Museo Municipal on This 1720 bi-level house the Plaza Mayor. It explores the legacy of grants access to all Portugal in Colonia. The seven museums of museum contains 16th- Colonia. The Lighthouse century navigation map is not included in this replicas, period uniforms, pass. and an intriguing exhibit on the delta’s role in the African slave trade, along with artifacts from the period.
24 For beach trips or a visit to Real de San Carlos, take an ABC bus from Avda. General Flores. You can also take a taxi or a scooter. ^ Playa Ferrando East of the center is Playa Ferrando, the area’s most pleasant beach, with shade trees and a
nearby grill. It is best Buenos Aires’ Top 10 accessed via a rental $ Real de San scooter, but a taxi would Carlos Casa Nacarello % cost only US$3. This once-grand resort This house (right) is a complex is a skeleton of typical mid-18th-century its former self. The Portuguese residence, Moorish-style bullring stocked with originals (above), casino, and and replicas of period coastal dock, are today a furniture. The dark few wooden pilings. kitchen is very striking.
& Iglesia Matriz Built in 1680, Uruguay’s oldest church (below) is remarkable for its unadorned white stucco façade and twin cupolas, both of them covered in beautiful Italianate tile work.
Getting There * Calle de los ( El Portón de Buquebus, which runs Suspiros Campo the most frequent ferry The narrow streets slop- This Portuguese-built service to and from ing water-ward from the 1745 archway, the Colonia, has its ultra- Plaza Mayor are very pic- City Gate, is the only modern ticket office and turesque, and Calle de structure remaining of terminal at Puerto los Suspiros, or Street the original fortification. Madero’s northernmost of Sighs, earns its It feels almost medieval point (Avda. Antártida distinction among them. in its form and heft. Argentina 821, 4316- 6500; www.buquebus. ) Rambla Costanera com). Swift catamarans This west-facing make the trip in under street (left) hugs the an hour, but do not waterfront, affording allow passengers on views of adjacent islands. deck. For a more leisure- The rocks below are an ly crossing, take the ideal spot to eat lunch, three-hour Eladia Isabel, and are accessible via a comfortable vessel two stairways leading that allows deck access. down from Costanera.
Colonia’s clocks are set an hour ahead of Buenos Aires’ time. 25 Tango Passionate, intense, and soulful, nothing quite sums up vibrant Buenos Aires as beautifully as the dance form that developed here – the tango. Most historians place its genesis in the 1880s at La Boca’s Riachuelo riverbank, where Mediterranean, West African, and Eastern European immigrants would — among other things — dance, sing, and play guitar in the neighborhood’s bordellos. But it wasn’t long before tango captivated the salon culture of Buenos Aires and, later, the capitals of Europe, incorporating instruments like the piano and bandoneón, and florid, intricate dance steps. Today, tango is regarded as a wholly porteño invention. Experience the lore and heritage of tango as it has evolved in the city for over 120 years.
Top 10 Features 1 Confitería Ideal 2 La Nacional 3 Café Tortoni
Buenos Aires’ Top 10 4 Zival’s 5 Botica del Angel Tango musicians 6 Chiquín • Confitería Ideal: Map 7 Piazzolla Tango Q6; Calle Suipacha 380; 8 Mansión Dandi Royal 5265-8069 9 Cementerio la Chacarita • Café Tortoni: Map Q6; 0 Comme il Faut Avda. de Mayo 825; 4342-4328 ! Confitería Ideal • La Nacional: Map D2; Suffering from a touch Calle Adolfo Alsina 1465; of neglect, yet all the more 4307-8796 evocative and romantic for • Zival’s: Map N6; Avda. it, the century-old Confitería Callao 395; 5128-7500 Ideal (below) remains • Botica del Angel: Map among the city’s most D2; Calle Luis Saénz vibrant grand salons, with Peña 541; 4384-9396 tango lessons on offer • Chiquín: Map Q6; upstairs, excellent musician Calle Perón 920; 4394- bookings, and great coffee. 5004 • Piazzolla Tango: Map Q6; Calle Florida 165; £ Café Tortoni 4344-8200 Tortoni name-checking • Mansión Dandi Royal: is a tango lyricist’s tradi- Map E3; Calle Piedras tion. The café (center) was 922; 4307-7623 the “office” for composers • Cementerio la and performers of tango’s Chacarita: Calle Guzmán 1920s heyday. It continues 680; 4553-9338 to be a spot to dance and • Comme il Faut: Map La Nacional @ hear groups play live. P5; Calle Arenales 1239; The Wednesday night 4815-5690 milonga, or tango night, at this old Italian social club in Montserrat (right) has put the neighborly, communal aspects of tango back into play. Currently shut for renovation, it reopens in mid-2009.
26 Call the venues for opening times Botica del % Angel This quirky Montserrat museum (right) has little alcoves and rooms
packed with tango Buenos Aires’ Top 10 $ Zival’s memorabilia, both Quite simply, if a tango kitsch and elegant. recording exists, it can probably be found at Zival’s ^ Chiquín & Piazzolla Tango (above). Despite the Established in Tango’s most daring dizzying inventory, the shop 1905, Gardel (see p28) modern composer lent caters just as passionately once held court in the his name to this luxe to buyers who have never dining room here. Now tango dinner-show seen a bandoneón, as to tango/dinner shows are destination in Galería lifelong aficionados. staged every night. Güemes (see p39).
* Mansión Dandi Royal The city’s most unique hotel, Mansión Dandi Royal features three dance salons, where milongas (above) are open to non-guests. Its paintings and furnishings evoke tango’s glory days.
Solo Tango TV Anyone with an Internet ( Cementerio la connection can enjoy Chacarita Solo Tango, a channel Legends like Carlos Gardel and devoted to the music, (left) Osvaldo Pugliese are movies, and lore of buried here. A visit is worth- tango. Their perfor- while for a Chacarita tradition, mance archives are where you can leave a massive and with the smoldering cigarette in the rights to all nine of statuary hand of Gardel. Gardel’s films, viewers can often tune in to see Comme il Faut ) Carlitos romancing his Comme il Faut (right) is way through foreign known by tango cogno- cities, rural estancias, scenti the world over as and aristocratic ball- Buenos Aires’ top purveyor rooms (www.tangocity. of tango footwear. The staff com; Channel 71 on schedule fittings, if they are CableVision). not free when you drop by.
For tango club listings See pp44–5 27 Left Gotan Project Right Astor Piazzolla Tango Artists Carlos Gardel (1890–1935) Osvaldo Pugliese ! “Carlitos” will always be % (1905–95) tango’s ambassador. This fedora- The pianist and composer wearing porteño authored Pugliese and his orchestras were hundreds of tales of love lost, broadcast over Radio Mundo, a punches thrown, and women state-run frequency, which wooed. The 70th anniversary of brought his music and his com- his death was commemorated by munist sentiments to nationwide four countries – Argentina, attention under Perón (see p33).
Buenos Aires’ Top 10 Colombia, France, and Uruguay. Horacio Ferrer (b. 1933) Astor Piazzolla (1921–92) ^ Ferrer has done much @ Master composer Piazzolla through his books to document brought tango – some would say tango’s history and forms, but kicking and screaming – into the his legendary lyrics – surreal and jazz age, pioneering the tango- florid, like the Piazzolla jazz quintet ensemble and compositions they were paired turning American bebop masters with – are his real legacy. on to the artform. The mournful Adios Nonino is Piazzolla’s most Azucena Maizani famous composition. & (1902–70) Occasionally assuming the Juan Carlos Copes macho dress of her male peers, £ (b.1931) Maizani was a fearless vocalist in An influential choreographer, the tango canción of the 1920s Copes is responsible for bringing and ‘30s, featuring in films with the now-integral theatricality into Gardel and performing on tours tango shows: knife duels, that reached as far as New York. dockside scenes, and bordello trysts.
Aníbal Troilo $ (1914–75) “Pichuco,” as his fans and fellow musicians called him, was the colossus of the bandoneón, the concertina-like squeezebox on which modern tango’s intricate steps are patterned. A Juan Carlos Copes show at the Sorbonne 28 Top 10 Tango Tunes The Mythical Gardel 1 La Cumparsita Carlos Gardel might not figure as prominently as 2 Por una Cabeza Edith Piaf or Al Jolson among early 20th-century
3 Buenos Aires’ Top 10 Mi Noche Triste vocalists, but the Latin songbird commands an 4 Silencio Argentinian cult that would put Elvis worshippers to 5 El Carretero shame. Gardel wedded lyrics about deceit, drunken- 6 Tomo y Obligo ness, and Buenos Aires to tango’s florid guitar lines. 7 Mi Buenos Aires Querido His presumed birthplace is Toulouse, France, where 8 Volvió una Noche he was born Charles Romuald Gardes in 1890, 9 El Día que me Quieras though some sources suggest Uruguay is his native 0 Guitarra Guitarra Mía soil. Undisputed is his upbringing in Buenos Aires’ Abasto district, where push-cart vendors and conmen La Cumparsita provided ample inspiration for his songs. European audiences, won over by Gardel’s charm, helped To the chagrin of porteños, tango’s most legitimize tango in the eyes of porteño elites. Gardel recognizable melody, died in a plane crash in 1935, a tragedy which only La Cumparsita, has its stoked his legend. origins in Montevideo, Uruguay, where a struggling architecture student anonymously gave the sheet music to a local band director in 1917. It was only after the student later heard his composition when he was in Paris that he under- stood his folly – having sold the rights to the tune for just 20 pesos. A poster featuring tango star Carlos Gardel
Casimiro Ain (1882–1940) colossus Antonio Gades – but his * Gardel would have never internationally screened, highly been able to seduce Europe had conceptual, and controversial the dancer Casimiro Ain not 1998 feature,Tango, helped been through Paris in 1904, propel the dance’s worldwide where this Buenos Aires milk- renaissance. man’s son captivated audiences with what was then an unknown Gotan Project artform, which he called “tango ) The bohemian crew of criollo” (earlier tango). Ain, in a porteños and Parisians com- later Paris visit, succeeded in prising Gotan Project are convincing the archbishops that practitioners of electronic tango, tango was not a sinful dance. which fuses sampling and beats from hip-hop and dub with sultry Carlos Saura (b.1932) vocals and bandoneón. Their first ( Spanish director and album, La Revancha del Tango, is choreographer Saura is most their greatest statement. Similar famous for his Flamenco trilogy to a Cockeny slang, the group’s of films – including 1983’s name is derived from lunfardo’s Carmen, starring flamenco jumbling of the word “tango.” Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com 29
Left The Bombing of Plaza de Mayo Right December Riots Moments in History
1536: Pedro de Mendoza modern European lines. Parks, ! Makes Landfall plazas, and mansions were built, Leading a 1,200-strong turning Buenos Aires into the expedition, Spanish explorer “Paris of South America.” Mendoza sailed into the River Plate and founded the settlement 1917: Carlos Gardel of Nuestra Señora Santa María $ records Mi Noche Triste del Buen Ayre. In 1541, with its Since the 1890s, tango had been people starving and under attack the music of the city’s slum
Buenos Aires’ Top 10 from the native Querandí, the dwellers. In 1917 that changed, settlement was abandoned. with Gardel’s recording of the first sung tango. This made 1810: May Revolution Gardel a world star and ushered @ Buenos Aires led the tango into the salons of Paris. region’s push for independence from Spain. On May 25, 1810, 1952: Death of Eva María the Spanish Viceroy was ousted % Duarte de Perón by a revolutionary junta. General In 1946, Juan Domingo Perón José de San Martín led the ensu- revolutionized Argentina, ing war. It ended in 1816 with mobilizing the support of the the declaration of independence. country’s urban poor to forge a new political movement of 1877: First Shipment of hegemonic power. His second # Frozen Beef to Europe wife, “Evita,” was key The advent of frozen shipping to his popularity and achieved transformed Argentina into one saintlike status among the poor. of the world’s richest nations. Her death in 1952 provoked such Robust economic growth national grief that her funeral remodeled Buenos Aires along was extended by four days.
1955: Bombing ^ of Plaza de Mayo After 1952, Perón’s re- gime unraveled. Mobs destroyed opposition party offices, news- papers were closed, and the Catholic Church was attacked. In 1955, Perón threat- ened civil war on his Eva Perón and President Juan Domingo Perón enemies. In the 32 Preceding pages Lobby at MALBA Top 10 Literary Figures ! Jorge Luis Borges (1899–1986) Argentina’s great littérateur Buenos Aires’ Top 10 wrote Labyrinths and The Book of Imaginary Beings. @ Adolfo Bioy Casares Diego Maradona (1914–99) A literary giant, his most famous work is The “Liberating Revolution” the Air Invention of Morel. Force bombed Plaza de Mayo before ousting Perón. £ Victoria Ocampo (1890–1979) This 1930s intellectual and 1983: The Return of & feminist was the founder of Democracy literary journal Sur. The 1976–83 military dictatorship brutalized Argentina. Left-wing $ Tomás Eloy Martínez guerrilla forces were eliminated (b. 1934 ) Historical novelist of Saint and suspected state enemies Evita and The Perón Novel. arrested, taken to secret torture camps, and killed. The country’s % Julio Cortázar defeat in the Falklands War in (1914–84) 1983, saw civilian rule return. This experimental novelist authored the book Hopscotch.
1986: World Cup Victory ^ José Hernández * Argentina’s 1986 World Cup (1834–86) victory brought glory to a nation Author of the epic poem struggling to heal the wounds of Martín Fierro. the military dictatorship. It also & Domingo Faustino produced a national icon: Diego Sarmiento (1811–88) Maradona (see p58). Author of what is considered to be the first Argentinian ( 1992: Israeli Embassy novel – Facundo. Bombing * Manuel Puig The bombing of the Israeli (1932–90) Embassy in Buenos Aires left 29 Author of pop culture novels, dead. In another Jewish-targeted plus Eternal Curse on the attack in 1994, the bombing of Reader of These Pages. the Asociación Mutual Israelita ( Ernesto Sábato Argentina (AMIA), a Jewish (b. 1911) cultural center, killed 87. Sábato wrote The Tunnel and also compiled Nunca Más, the 2001: December Riots official report into 1976–83 dictatorship abuses. ) In the 1990s, Argentina was crippled by foreign debt and a ) Jacobo Timerman meltdown occurred in 2001. Gov- (1923–99) ernment restrictions on bank Prisoner Without a Name, Cell withdrawals lead to mass riots. Without a Number chronicles Timerman’s own captivity and President Fernando de la Rúa torture during the “Dirty War.” resigned after 27 died. Tour agency Eternautas (see p105) runs stimulating historical 33 and literary tours (www.eternautas.com) Left Canal 7 Center Biblioteca Nacional Right Automóvil Club Argentina Striking Buildings
The Kavanagh Bring along a photo ID to ascend ! An Art Deco sentinel, the to the building’s reading area, Kavanagh is one of Buenos which offers staggering views. Aires’ most exclusive addresses. d Map N3 • Plaza Rubén Dário, Calle It was also the continent’s Agüero 2502 • 4808-6000 • Open 9am– tallest building when it was 9pm Mon–Fri; noon–7pm Sat–Sun completed in 1936. Its triangular • www.bn.gov.ar shape, cleaving two streets, is a rarity among existing examples Banco Hipotecario d % Buenos Aires’ Top 10 Buenos Aires’ Top 10 of the form. Map Q5 • Calle Nacional Florida 1065 This is the most confounding façade in the city. The drape of Palacio de las Swiss-cheese concrete is @ Aguas Corrientes actually a faithful representation This Victorian palace is one of of early 1960s Rationalist design. Buenos Aires’ most fun d Map Q6 • Calle Reconquista 101 museums, filled with brass fau- cets, toilets, and other early Confitería El Molino 20th-century plumbing relics. The ^ Opposite Congress sits this Córdoba entrance has terracotta elegant relic of Buenos Aires’ vegetable motifs. d Map N5 café culture, regrettably closed • Calle Riobamba 750 • 6319-1104 since the 1990s. Named for its • Free guided tours (Spanish): 11am Mon, Moulin Rouge-style windmill Wed, and Fri turret, El Molino was also a
Palacio Barolo £ A richly symbolic building, Palacio Barolo riffs on Dante’s Divine Comedy in its 328-ft (100-m) height, which matches the number of cantos. Its 22 stories match the number of verses in most cantos. The lobby arcade has dragon heads and hellfire motifs (see p14).
Biblioteca Nacional $ Palermo Chico’s biggest architectural achievement is Argentina’s main library. The three-million-volume institution was completed in 1992, three decades after work on it began. Palacio Barolo 34 popular tango venue and has many of its Italian glass vitreaux intact. d Map D1 • Cnr
Avdas Rivadavia & Callao Buenos Aires’ Top 10
Automóvil Club & Argentina The national automotive club’s headquarters is one of Buenos Aires’ strongest examples Floralis Genérica of the Officialist style of architecture. On its lobby level exhibit their works in the is a small selection of pristine entrance hall. d Map N3 • Avda. vintage autos, some of which are Figueroa Alcorta 2977 • 4808-2500 • of historical value. d Map N3 Open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri • www.canal7. • Avda. del Libertador 1850 • 4801-1837 com.ar • Open 10am–5:30pm Mon–Fri • www. aca.org.ar/institucional/museo/frame.htm Floralis Genérica ) Argentinian sculptor Eduardo Sociedad La Rural Catalano installed the Floralis in * La Rural has been Palermo’s 2002, single-handedly bringing slice of Pampa life since 1878. porteño public art into the Infor- Its annual agricultural show (see mation Age. The aluminum and p42) draws exhibitors and steel flower “blooms” at 8am, audiences from all over the closing its enormous petals at country. Housed within is Opera dusk, except on public holidays, Pampa, a Medieval-style show when the Floralis remains in with dinner, horsemanship, and bloom for 24 hours. d Map N3 shopping. d Map L2 • Avda. Sarmiento • Plaza Naciones Unidas, Avda. Figueroa 2704 • 4777-5500 • Opera Pampa: 4777- Alcorta & Calle Austria 5557; open 8pm Thu, Fri and 1BSRVF $9( Sat • Adm for dinner show EF'FCSFSP 1 2 $9 ( , ' 17 $ $ , ( 9 1, 4BMEJBT 3 • www.la-rural.com.ar 0 '( '$ 5 ( / 6 6$5 / 3 9 ,% 5 $ ( 5 ( 6 5 6 &$ 7 67, $ ) // $9(1,'$ ' $ 2 *(1(5 2 /& Canal 7 $// 5 $6 2 5 $ 9 7 ( +(5 $ $6 The roof of the 1BSRVF $9*(1(5 -BT)FSBT $ city’s best-known 4DBMBCSJOJ '1 9' 6 (/ 0SUJ[ $1 $//$6+(5$6(<55( /,% 5HFROHWD 38 7 (5 public television $ $9 2 7$'25 ) $ ( $// &TUBDJØO station studios is open $& EFM3FUJSP "HàFSP ' (1, to the public. The $9 1VFZSSFEØO %DUULR1RUWH 5HWLUR 2 $ , 9 $ concrete Bauhaus / 9 ( 1 , ' / $ 8 2 6 $ 1 7 $ ) ( -
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Plaza Rodríguez Peña bronze effigy of General San ! Every fall, the lovely flowers Martín complete this charming of this plaza’s tropical jacaranda square (see p81). trees blanket its paths and lawns in a beautiful bluish-purple. It is a Plaza Vincente López picturesque sight and, just one $ This lovely plaza recalls the block from the noisy intersection elegant city squares of Paris and of Avenidas Santa Fe and Callao, London. It is difficult to imagine a perfect soother for busy that it was once a dumping d Buenos Aires’ Top 10 shoppers. Map N5 • Barrio Norte ground for the bloody carcasses of the Recoleta slaughterhouse. Plaza Lavalle Crisscrossed by paths, filled with @ One of the city’s oldest tropical trees and birdsong, and squares, Plaza Lavalle is fronted with beautifully maintained by important buildings. These lawns, it is the perfect readers’ include the Teatro Colón (see square. It has a children’s play pp12–13) and the Palacio de area, too. d Map P4 • Recoleta Justicia (the federal supreme court). The city’s biggest Jardín Botánico synagogue, the Templo Libertad, % Carlos Thays stands at the square’s Wild and wonderful, the city’s northeastern corner. d Map P5 botanical gardens combine high • Barrio Norte art with verdant nature. Opened in 1898 and designed by French Plaza San Martín landscape architect Carlos Thays, £ Named in honor of the gardens are home to over Argentina’s great liberator, 5,500 plant species from every General San Martín, this lovely, continent. The plant life is inter- monumental plaza is spersed with classical statues sequestered on weekdays by and fountains. d Map L3 • Palermo sunbathing office workers and kissing couples. At its center is a magnificient 200- year-old rubber tree, to the east of which stretches a broad balcony with views over Retiro. A memorial to Argentinian soldiers killed in the 1982 Falklands War and a Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays 36 Watch tango from under a canopy of trees at the Jardín Botánico, which holds free cultural events on weekends. Plazoleta Carlos ^ Pellegrini This plaza’s center- piece is a striking
marble and bronze Buenos Aires’ Top 10 monument to former president Carlos Pellegrini. Designed by French sculptor Félix Coutan in 1914, it shows a seated Pellegrini flanked by allegories of progress Plaza Serrano and industry and protected from above by the ( Plaza Francia Republic. d Map P4 • Recoleta Facing the Cementerio de la Recoleta, Plaza Francia hosts the Parque Las Heras city’s biggest arts and crafts fair, & At the heart of Palermo, thronged each Saturday and Parque Las Heras is a cool oasis. Sunday by artists and artisans, At its northern end a broad hippies and neo-hippies, and grassy slope descends toward street performers and tourists. Avenida Las Heras and is a Busiest between 3pm and 6pm, favorite sunbathing spot for it is one of the city’s best free scantily clad, sun-worshipping afternoons out. d Map P3 • Recoleta porteños. d Map M3 • Palermo Plaza Serrano Plaza Mitre ) Plaza Serrano, officially * This sloping plaza overlooks named Plaza Julio Cortázar after Avenida Libertador and offers the Argentinian writer, lies at the great views across the parks of center of Palermo Viejo. Petite Recoleta toward Retiro. At the and circular, the plaza holds a slope’s crest stands a monument weekend arts fair, where design- of Bartolomé Mitre, first presi- ers display and sell goods. Its dent of the Argentine Republic in perimeter is ringed by hip bars, 1862 and founder of La Nacion boho clothes stores, and art newspaper. Allegorical sculptures studios. Ideal for afternoon and adorn its base. d Map N4 • Recoleta sunset drinks. d Map K3 • Palermo
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Most of the city’s green spaces are open 10am–7pm daily. 37 Left Casa López Center Plata Lappas shop sign Right El Boyero Argentinian Artisan Stores
Kelly’s Plata Lappas ! In its 50-plus years, this $ Visit Plata Lappas for spacious Retiro artisan shop has its exquisite silver pieces, rescued many visitors from particularly champagne sets and returning home empty-handed. pitchers, plus bone china and Wares include indigenous-crafted silver-embellished longhorn-cattle leather items and paintings drinking gourds. d Map Q5 • Calle inspired by the Pampas, but Florida 740 • 4325-9568 • Open 9am–8pm Kelly’s is best for maté Mon–Fri; 8:30am–1pm Sat
Buenos Aires’ Top 10 shoppers, with styles and shapes at every price % El Boyero point. d Map Q5 • Calle This smartly stocked Paraguay 521 • 4311-5712 shop carries Los Robles • Open 10am–8pm Mon–Fri; hide bags and accessories, 10am–3pm Sat in addition to crafted gaucho knives, leather @ Mission wine-bottle harnesses, Resisting the and satchels. d Map Q5 encroachment of Plaza • Calle Florida 953 • 4312-3564 Serrano’s fashionable • Open 9am–8:30pm Mon–Sat boutiques and fusion restaurants, Mission is pure Joyería Paula Pampa. Patchwork cow- ^ Levy/Viviana hide rugs can be custom Local craft item on Carriquiry ordered, and the shop sale in Kelly’s This shared jeweler’s also stocks weathered-wood space showcases avant-garde furnishings, gaucho-style steak silversmithing. Reasonably priced knife sets, and leather handbags. women’s necklaces, bracelets, d Map K3 • Pasaje Russell 5009 • 4832- and pendants take on a daring, 3285 • Open 11am–8pm daily truly one-of-a-kind form in the artists’ workshop upstairs. £ Casa López d Map Q5 • Galerías Larreta, Calle For many porteñas, Casa Florida 971 • 4312-7522 • Open 10:30am– López is the only choice for a 8pm Mon–Fri; 11am–4pm Sat proper leather handbag. Elegant, handmade designs are offered in a wide variety of styles. Three doors down, at 658, you can find equally luxurious leather fashions, from skirt-jacket combos to full-length coats. d Map Q5 • Calle Marcelo T. de Alvear 640 • 4311-3044 • Open 9am–8pm daily Joyería Paula Levy/Viviana Carriquiry 38 Top 10 Shopping Centers ! Galerías Pacífico Fulfills all domestic luxury brand shopping needs. d Map Buenos Aires’ Top 10 Q5 • Linea B Florida 61-62 & 93 @ Abasto Shopping A belt at Ramos Generales Houses 230 brands, a 12-screen megaplex, a huge food court, and an amuse- La Vitrina & ment park. d Map L6 • Avda. Check La Vitrina before other Corrientes 3247 • 4959-3400 Retiro artisan shops as some real bargains can be had at this £ AltoPalermo no-frills emporium, particularly This is Buenos Aires’ most fashionable place to shop. on woven wall hangings and d Map M4 • Avda. Santa Fe children’s clothing. d Map Q5 3253 • 5777-8000 • Calle Marcelo T. de Alvear 566 • 4313- 7488 • Open 10:30am–6:30pm daily $ Buenos Aires Design A super emporium of high-end housewares. d Map Estación Sur * N3 • Cnr Avda. Pueyrredón & Whether it is silver candle- Calle Azcuenaga • 5777-6000 sticks, wooden figurines, or wide-brim leather hats, Estación % La Rural Sur does them all well, with 300 Seek this out for quality gaucho silver knives and Argentinian artisans’ wares leather saddle bags (see p88). spread over its three levels. The leather, handmade horse saddles ^ Galería Bond Street are exquisite. d Map Q5 • Calle Three levels of skateboard Florida 680 • 4328-7189 • Open 9am– clothing, tattoo and piercing studios, and nightclub-gear 10pm Mon–Sat; 10:30am–10pm Sun shops. d Map N5 • Avda. Santa Fe 1670 ( Ramos Generales Ramos Generales has the & Patio Bullrich most carefully selected artisan- The city’s poshest shopping inhabits circa-1860 goods inventories in the city. horse stalls. d Map P4 • Avda. Visit for rich leathers, alpaca- del Libertador 750 • 4814-7400 wool sweaters, and hats in leather and traditional gaucho * Paseo Alcorta felt. d Map Q5 • Galerías Larreta, Calle Four levels of national brands. d Map M2 • Calle Florida 971 • Open 10am–6pm Mon–Sat Salguero 3172 • 5777-6500 Joyería Isaac Katz ( Galería Güemes ) Isaac Katz works wonders Home to Piazzolla Tango with semi-precious stones, (see p27), this arcade exudes porteño elegance. d Map Q6 soldering them onto silver rings • Calle Florida 165 • 4331-3041 and into delicate pendants. His wife’s contemporary women’s ) Galería 5ta Avenida clothing line, in the same space, Buy second-hand vintage is worth a browse, too. d Map K3 clothes and leather-wear here. d Map P5 • Avda. Santa Fe 1270 • Pasaje Russell 5027 • 4833-7165 • 4816-0451 • Open 10am–8pm Mon–Sat Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com 39 Left Museo de la Deuda Externa Right Books on display at Museo Casa de Ricardo Rojas Intimate Museums
Fundación Forner-Bigatti shabby charm. It features soccer ! This stark white house offers icons, the Revolución de Mayo a glimpse into the lives of (see p32) heroes, literary figures, porteño avant-garde artists and more. d Map G6 • Calle del Valle Raquel Forner and Alfredo Iberlucea 1261 • 4301-1497 • Open Bigatti. Inside, there are 10am–6pm daily • Adm sculptures, photos, and • www.museo decera.com.ar paintings in former work- shops as well as the central Museo de la d % Buenos Aires’ Top 10 garden. Map F3 • Calle Inmigracion Bethlem 443 • 4362-9171 • Call for Originally the entry and timings • www.forner-bigatti.com.ar processing point for thousands of immigrants to Museo Fortabat Argentina between the late @ Opened in 2008 19th and mid-20th centuries, following a drama-filled this museum housed in a gestation, the Museo former hotel features old Fortabat breaks up suitcases, photographs, Puerto Madero Este’s and medical tiresome business- Sculpture at Fundación implements. d Map R4 park chic with a build- Forner-Bigatti • Avda. Antártida Argentina ing as distinctive as its 1355 • 4317-0285 • Open collection of over 1,000 pieces of 10am–5pm Mon–Fri, 11am–6pm Sat–Sun Argentinian art. d Map R6 • Dique 4 • Call for English tour • www.mininterior. gov.ar/migraciones/museo/index.html Museo Casa de £ Ricardo Rojas The former home of Argentina’s distinguished literature professor appears largely how Rojas left it upon his death in 1957. Its Neo- Colonial design is informed by Rojas’ studies of indigenous and Jesuit-mission construction in Peru. d Map M4 • Calle Charcas 2837 • 4824-4039 • Open 10am–6:30pm Mon–Fri, 10am–12:30pm Sat • Adm • www.cultura.gov.ar
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6$17$ 1VFZSSFEØO 9 Puerto Madero • 4334–9386 • Open Puerto Adm daily • 10am–7pm ( ) Beautifully lit El Zanjón with sensational montages and with sensational montages and of catastrophic head- blowups lines. D.F. Sarmiento, who founded Sarmiento, who founded D.F. this school, naval Argentina’s 3 clipper moored at Dock 1898 visitors aboard welcomes now her decks. Ernesto Sábato, Calle Uriburu 763 • 4370- 763 Ernesto Sábato, Calle Uriburu • Adm • • Open noon–8pm Mon–Fri 6105 www.uba.ar/extension/cultura/16.php 9
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555 • 4303-2882 • Call for timings 555 • 4303-2882 • Call for delcine.gov.ar • www.museo goes beyond the obvious vintage vintage the obvious goes beyond domestic film-poster exhibitions, on in-depth, engaging putting explored earlier show An shows. Argentinian early 20th-century transition from comic actors’ museum also The theater to film. other in tandemworks the city’s to present a range institutions With the building of film series. the museum undergoing repair, has temporarily relocated.
demolition project, the evoca- lit series of subterranean tively and foundations tunnels water El Zanjón mansion have below of charm another layer added yet ahead for Check Telmo. to San held in the special events tunnels ( in the basement of the Tucked Economics city university’s building, this sober yet absolutely vital mini-museum rollercoaster Argentina’s tracks through 20th-century economy default loan 2001’s
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& ^ museum contains a This of eclectic array thourough and painting and Argentinian from the 19th ranging sculpture The century day. to the present garden is a adjacent sculpture spot. quiet, contemplative L1 • Avda. Infanta Isabel 555 • 4774-9452 Infanta Isabel 555 • 4774-9452 Avda. L1 • 10am–8pm • Open noon–8pm Mon–Fri, free Adm; • 10am–6pm Sat–Sun; Jun–Aug • www.museosivori.org.ar Wed on Left Tango in San Telmo Right Crowd at Creamfields dance festival Festivals
Carnaval Feria Internacional del ! A fun celebration of drums % Libro de Buenos Aires and dancing. Each district holds This mammoth 18-day fair unites its own parade in which murgas authors and book lovers. Myriad (carnival musicians) compete to stands sell publications of all be the year’s best. d Mid-Feb genres, and there are seminars and presentations. The likes of Apertura de Doris Lessing, Paul Auster, Ray @ la Opera Bradbury, and Tom Wolfe have
Buenos Aires’ Top 10 Buenos Aires’ Top 10 The Teatro Colón opens its addressed audiences in the past. curtains to opera lovers in early d End Apr • www.el-libro.org.ar March. The season runs through December. d Closed for renovation ^ Aniversario de la until 2010 • www.teatrocolon.org.ar Revolución de Mayo People gather in front of the Fashion Buenos Aires Cabildo (see p8) for the patriotic # Designers showcase their choir service on the anniversary summer and winter collections of the 1810 May Revolution. A at this bi-annual, four-day event, huge program of events is held each March and September. scheduled to take place across More than 30 catwalk shows the city for the 2010 bicentennial take place and 40-plus of the Revolution. d 25 May showrooms display new designs. d www.bafweek.com La Rural & The Exposición Internacional Festival Internacional de de Ganadería (see p88) is attend- $ Cine Independiente ed by the farming community This indie-film fest showcases from across Argentina and non-Hollywood productions from Argentina and across the globe. Over 12 days, more than 250,000 cinema lovers attend screen- ings which compete for the Gran Premio. Screenings take place daily in locations across the city, along with seminars and workshops. d Mid-Apr • www.bafici.gov.ar Opera audience in Teatro Colón 42 Festival dates sometimes change in Buenos Aires. Check the official tourist website www.bue.gov.ar for latest details. Top 10 Contemporary Argentinian Movies ! La Historia Oficial (1985) Oscar-winning movie about Buenos Aires’ Top 10 the fate of the “disappeared” during the 1976–83 military dictatorship (see p33). @ El Viento se Llevó lo Que (1998) Comedy in which a village’s Buenos Aires Fashion Week only experience of the outside is via badly edited movies. abroad. Exhibits run from hi-tech machinery to GM foods, live- £ Nueve Reinas (2000) Tale of two grifters looking stock, and organic produce. The for their big break in crisis- gaucho shows feature amazing wracked Buenos Aires. feats of horsemanship. d Late Jul • www.ruralarg.org.ar $ El Hijo de la Novia (2001) A son whose world is falling Festival Buenos Aires * apart finds salvation, to his Tango surprise, in his father’s love The city’s (and the world’s) for his ailing mother. biggest tango extravaganza, this eight-day marathon sees free % Los Guantes Mágicos (2003) shows, concerts, classes, and Comedy-drama about a taxi tango fairs take place across the driver confronting loss, city, before the festival closes loneliness, and crisis. with a huge open-air milonga. d Mid-Aug • www.festivaldetango.gov.ar ^ Cama Adentro (2004) Drama about an aristo- crat’s dependency on her Marcha del Orgullo Gay maid during the 2001 crisis. ( Buenos Aires’ gay parade is a march for greater rights and a & El Abrazo Partido celebration of sexual diversity. (2004) Set post-2001, the tale of a The city’s gay, lesbian, and trans- young Jewish porteño gender communities ride a searching for his identity. caravan of glitzy floats in a glorious riot of pink, glitter, and * La Niña Santa (2004) naked flesh to thumping disco Story of a 16-year-old choir d girl’s growing sexual aware- and dance beats. First Sat of Nov ness and the guilt it provokes. • www.marchadelorgullo.org.ar ( Derecho de Familia Creamfields (2005) ) For dance-music fans, this Funny tale of a neurotic new dad who reassesses his open-air festival brings together relationship with his father. more than 100 artists and 60,000 revelers. Sets feature local DJs ) Bombón el Perro with international stars. Paul (2005) Oakenfold, Groove Armada, and Charming road-movie about an unemployed mechanic and the Prodigy have all played here. his pit-bull terrier. d Nov • www.creamfieldsba.com Spanish speakers should visit the website www.cinenacional.com 43 for Argentinian movie reviews and listings. Left Salón Canning Right Nuevo Salón La Argentina Tango Clubs and Milongas
Centro Cultural traditional with a smart dress ! Torquato Tasso code, while Sunday is the most This intimate dinner-concert popular night. Simply choose the venue is the place to watch live night for you. d Map N6 • 1st Floor, tango performances. Musicians Riobamba 416, Once • 4953-2794 run the gamut from guitarists to • Adm • [email protected] accordionists, to flautists, and vocalists such as Adriana Niño Bien Varela – contemporary tango’s $ This Belle Époque
Buenos Aires’ Top 10 star. Tango classes precede ballroom hosts one recitals. Also try the of the city’s most Sunday night milonga. traditional milongas. d Map F4 • Defensa 1575, San Here, invitations to Telmo • 4307-6506 • Adm dance are made by • www.torquatotasso.com.ar men only, via a series of nods and El Querandí signals, and on the @ This lively place floor, dancers locate holds dinner-tango hands whilst maintain- shows in a beauti- ing eye contact – fully restored San anything else is bad Telmo building dating taste. The dance from 1867. Perform- evokes tremendous ances are a fusion of Tango show at El Querandi nostaligia. Expect tango and theater, plenty of tourists. d telling the story of tango’s birth Map D3 • Humberto 1° 1462, Constitución in the city’s bordellos to its em- • 4147-8687 • Open 10pm–4am Thu bracement by the bourgeoisie, and later its reinvention by Astor Café de los Angelitos Piazzolla (see p28). The ambience % Opened in 1890, this café is romantic and intimate. d Map earned its “Little Angels” F2 • Perú 322, San Telmo • 5199-1770 moniker in the 1920s, when it • Adm • www.querandi.com.ar was frequented by the local mafia. Today, it hosts cabaret- Tanguería El Beso style dinner-tango extravaganzas # This lovely little 30-year-old in which dancers perform milonga welcomes dancers from dramatic and breathtaking tangos 18 to 80 years, both tourists and to a live six-piece orchestra. Post locals. The parquet floor is lit by razzmatazz, visit the bar restored lantern-like lighting and the with stained-glass murals and a horseshoe-shaped bar serves mosaic floor. d Map C1 • Avda. home-made pastas plus wines. Rivadavia 2064, Congreso • 4952-2320 Tuesday is touristy, Thursday is • Adm • www.cafedelosangelitos.com 44 Milongas are neighborhood dance halls where people go to dance tango. La Catedral ^ Held in an abandoned century- old flour mill, La
Catedral attracts a Buenos Aires’ Top 10 hip, young crowd. Modern sculptures hang from the cathedral-sized wooden roof and a huge photo of a grinning Gardel hovers over the Tango performance at El Viejo Almacén stage. d Map L6 • D Sarmiento 4006, Almagro • 5325-1630 feature both traditional and contemporary tangos. There is a Salón Canning six-piece orchestra with violin & This elegant tango salon is and accordion solos, a charis- justly famed for its smooth, matic aging-diva, a silver-haired- polished parquet floor, rated one gallant, and young-matinee-idol of the best in the city for tango singers. Dinner precedes the dancing. Classes and milongas shows, and is eaten in a second pull in a mix of locals and historical building across the tourists, beginners, and veter- cobbled street. d Map F3 • Avda. ans. Monday and Tuesday are the Independencia y Balcarce, San Telmo big nights; Thursday mixes tango • 4307-6689 • www.viejo-almacen.com.ar with salsa. d Map K4 • Scalabrini Ortiz 1331, Palermo • 4832-6753 Sin Rumbo ) It is worth the trip to this Nuevo Salón La Argentina outlying barrio to experience an * The Nuevo Salon has authentic neighborhood milonga. marathon milonga sessions on It is best to reserve ahead as the weekday afternoons and on owners close the doors on 150 Friday and Saturday nights. It persons to guarantee plenty of attracts a more experienced dancing space. The idea is to go crowd that dances al suelo, feet for dinner and milonga. d José P. pegged to the floor in traditional Tamborini 6157, Villa Urquiza • 4523-7214 style with no fancy flicks. The • Adm • [email protected] atmosphere is friendly
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Buenos Aires’ Top 10 Buenos Aires’ Top 10 spin 80s classics. Upstairs, a @ Pachá more serious crowd boogies to This 3,000-capacity venue house and techno. d Map K4 is for fans of techno and • Armenia 1740, Palermo Viejo • 4832- electronica. Chemical Brothers, 2776 • Open from 11pm Thu–Sat Paul Oakenfold, and Sasha have • www.elpodesta.com.ar all played here. d Avda. Costanera Rafael Obligado, y La Pampa, Palermo • % The Roxy 4788-4280 • Open from midnight Fri, 2am This century-old theater Sat • www.pachabuenosaires.com venue goes glam on Thursday nights when it hosts the city’s Club Museum raunchiest club night, the legend- £ This club holds the city’s ary Club 69 (see p48). Saturday biggest “after-office” party on nights are less notorious with Wednesdays, when people arrive Argentinian and international rock in droves. Dress code is smart. and pop. d Federico Lacroze y Alvarez Weekends are heavier on hard- Thomas, Colegiales • Opening times vary house. The dance floor is over- • www.theroxybsas.com.ar
Full house at Club Museum 46 Reserve ahead to dine at most nightclubs from 10:30pm onward – club entry is free afterward. El Living ^ El Living is the city’s old-school disco for grown-ups. Set across one floor of an Buenos Aires’ Top 10 old town house, this intimate venue has 80s, disco, and handbag house in the main room and Brit Pop in the smaller lounge. The crowd is an unpretentious mid- Crobar 20s to late-30s. d Map P5 • Marcelo T de Alvear 1540, Tribunales ( Kika • 4811-4730 • www.living.com.ar Fashionable crowd pours in Kika. Two rooms: one hip-hop, Caix funk, and commercial house; the & After Mint or Pachá, the other strobe-heavy hard-house. It hedonistic head to Caix, the is a favorite of young Argentinian “after hours” club, which keeps footballers who hang out in the going till noon. There is hard open VIP lounge. It has a cool, techno on the upper floor. The flirty vibe. d Map J3 • Honduras 5339, second dance room looks across Palermo Viejo • 4137-5311 • Open the River Plate. d Map N1 • Centro Thu–Sat • www.kikaclub.com.ar Costa Salguero, Avda. Rafael Obligado, y Salguero, Palermo • 4806 -9749 • Open ) Club Aráoz from 1am Fri & Sat, 8am-1:30pm Sun Saturday is the big night here, when DJs mix house with Crobar reggaetón, hip-hop, and pop. * It is huge, it is packed, it is Thursday is hip-hop and Friday Crobar: Buenos Aires’ biggest, rock. The club has an intimacy most popular nightclub, with a that the city’s super-clubs lack. mammoth main floor, a smaller d Map L3 • Aráoz 2424, Palermo backroom, five bar areas, and an • 4832-9751 • Open from 1am Thu–Sat open-air terrace, each of which • www.clubaraoz.com.ar heaves on weekends $9 ' NP $9 (//,%(5 $ with an alcohol-fueled 6$ 9 3JPEF 1 3 7$ 7 5( $' MB1MBUB ) ( 25 6 mix of tourists and $ 9 ) (1 $BSSBO[B 72 ,' locals. Friday, with $ $ ,(1 /& 3 0 $9 5 5 '( 2 5 7$ (6 commercial house 6$ / 5 9 6 1BMFSNP $ / 4BMEJBT & ,% $67 ( ,/ 4DBMBCSJOJ 5 / and pop, is the biggie; $9 $ 7 2 0SUJ[ 9* $' & (1 2 5 5' /$6+ (5 Saturdays is harder 2 = $ $ 6 $9 %$ ' 1 &TUBDJØO ( / ( ' 1 5( EFM3FUJSP house. Thursday , ' 2 3DOHUPR 5 $ 6 7 < 8 $//$2 - 2521 & % & 9 9 $ changes tack with - & $ '$ 2 38( 1, 5 1VFZSSFEØO %DUULR1RUWH 5 2 ( , $9 , 9 (1 US/Brit rock, though $ ( $96&$/$%5,1,257,=$'2 ,'$6$17$)( / 1 7 7 (6 $9 &5 8 ( 5$(/ '2%$ $ - 6 9 6 , ' $ ( ( ' in the backroom only. $BMMBP '
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Amerika Titanic Club ! Buenos Aires’ biggest gay $ This kitschy cool club disco, this venue packs in a attracts a mixed gay and lesbian gorgeous-looking crowd of gay, crowd. Highlights of a fun-filled lesbian, and straight people. night here include dark rooms, Straights hang out mainly on the go-go dancers, hot strippers, top floor, with gays and divas drag queens, and a huge bar. mingling on the lower two levels, With a cruise-like atmosphere, where DJs spin techno, dance, the club is at its best on d Buenos Aires’ Top 10 and Latin tunes. Expect a night Saturday nights. Map M4 • Avda. of hedonistic pleasures. d Map K5 Santa Fe 2516, Barrio Norte • 4822-7530 • Gascón 1040, Villa Crespo • 4865-4416 • Open from 11:30pm daily • www.the- • www.ameri-k.com.ar titanic-club.com.ar
ZOOM Sitges @ Located on a corner of one % This modern pre-clubbing of the city’s main cruising zones, venue crams with an this subterranean 24-hour bar unpretentious gay and lesbian attracts an adventurous crowd of crowd of 18–40 plus. Strippers Argentinian males and tourists, perform on Friday nights, and from 18-year-olds to 50- comedy drag queens on somethings. Inside is a maze Saturdays and Sundays. Make with private cabins and sure you turn up before 1am to darkrooms. Pre- or post-cruise, get a stage-side table. Sitges chill out in the cool lounge bar, lacks the cruisey edge of other with house beats and flowing gay-lesbian venues. d Map K5 drinks. d Map N5 • Uriburu 1018, Barrio • Avda. Córdoba 4119, Palermo Viejo Norte • 4827-4828 • Open 24hrs daily • Open from 10:30pm Wed–Sun • Adm • www.zoombuenosaires.com • 4861-3763 • www.sitgesonline.com.ar
Club 69 GLAM £ Held in a century-old theater, ^ Set within a beautiful Club 69 boasts one of the city’s colonial-style house, Glam pulls wildest club nights, pulling in a in a hip younger crowd of gays mixed gay-straight crowd with and lesbians, especially on hard-house and electronica. The Saturdays. There are three bars, night’s big event is a 4am a pool room, an exterior patio, a cabaret show, which features playroom upstairs and, best of leather-clad performers on the all, uplifting dance tunes. The main stage. d The Roxy Club, crowd starts coming in around Federico Lacroze y Alvarez Thomas, 2am. d Map M5 • Cabrera 3046, Colegiales • Open from midnight Thu Palermo • 4963-2521 • Open from 1am • www.theroxybsas.com.ar Thu and Sat • www.glambsas.com.ar 48 San Telmo and Palermo Viejo are Buenos Aires’ most gay-friendly districts. Buenos Aires’ Top 10 49
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• Tres Sargentos 427, Microcentro • 4312- Sargentos 427, Tres • 5706 • Open noon–midnight Mon–Fri, from 7pm Sat • www.empirethai.net dash of modern chic to the old to the old dash of modern chic interior The grandeur of Recoleta. is intimate with modern and menu features The elegant decor. items and a short but health-food high-quality wine list. refresh- afternoon For ments choose between aromatic smooth- fruit coffees, pastries, ies, muffins, The and brownies. jazz staff, attractive and audio backdrop, WiFi add to Gout’s appeal. venue is housed within a former is housed within a former venue on Friday It throngs factory. guest nights when international the male-dominated rock DJs dance floors. Handsome, out bar pack guys adventurous are long queues, so There areas. early. arrive fuses spicy Asian cuisine and cuisine and Asian fuses spicy orientalNew decor with a cool lunchtime, At ambience. York on the at the bar, grab a seat the cozy on main floor, or at an outside mezzanine, stir hot curries, table, and enjoy and salads. fries, soups, early up for turn Alternatively, when the gay cocktails, evening is at its biggest. crowd
• Juncal 2124, Recoleta 2124, • Juncal • 4825-8330 • Open 8am– 9pm Mon–Sat • www. goutcafe.com.ar (
* & 940, Montserrat • 4331-3231 • www. • 4331-3231 940, Montserrat alsinabuenosaires.com.ar
Left Provoleta Center Tourist drinking the ubiquitous maté Right A box of alfajores Culinary Highlights
Provoleta ingredients’ purity and the heat’s ! The Swiss have their fondue, modulation yield smooth, shiny Mexicans their queso fundido, dulce de leche, doled out with and Argentinians have provoleta. every conceivable dessert. An inch-thick disk of cow’s or goat’s milk (provolone) is heated Sorrentinos over a grill, rendering it pliant $ Home-made pasta rules in and crisp-skinned. It is eaten this city, where a third of the with a steak knife. population traces its
Buenos Aires’ Top 10 ancestry to Italy. Parrillada Sorrentinos, a @ Entrails, staple of the Old sweet-breads, Country, are sausages, popular in Buenos sirloin, and Aires pasta chicken constitute houses. These parrillada, brought to round pockets of the table piled atop a Baked empanadas dough are stuffed with metal grill. You can ham and mozzarella, order the meat jugoso (rare), al pumpkin and ricotta, or spinach punto (medium-rare), and cocido and parmesan, and topped with – somewhere between medium- a traditional cream sauce. well and well-done. Ice Cream Dulce de Leche % Argentinian ice cream # Most Westerners would resembles Italian gelato. Most recognize the end product of heladería menus are divided boiled milk and sugar as caramel. among frutas – fruit creams and Not so in Argentina, where the sorbets; cremas – comprising the dulce de leche flavors, sambayón, and vanilla varieties; and chocolates. If you share a quarter kilo, you get three flavors for US$3.
Empanadas ^ Resembling mini turnovers, empanadas are almost always baked – in contrast to their fried Caribbean counterparts – and contain savory fillings such as onion and mozzarella. Keep an Parrillada eye out for restaurants and snack 52 Preceding pages Colorful El Caminito, La Boca Top 10 Argentinian Wines ! Misterio Malbec Flichman delivers excellent value within its Misterio line, Buenos Aires’ Top 10 especially with Malbec, Argentina’s prize grape.
Locro, the local stew @ Pulenta IX Pinot Noir Production of this Mendoza Pinot, aged 10 bars offering empanadas salte- months in new French oak, is ñas, tucumanas, and catamar- limited to only about 4,000 queñas, the spicier styles of bottles per harvest. Argentina’s northwest provinces. £ Telteca Merlot One of Mendoza’s under- Locro & the-radar bodegas, its Merlot A stew from the northwest has tons of fruit. provinces, locro warms you up on cold days. Classic locro $ Gran Reserva Malbec combines cannellini beans, meat, This Malbec is the product of 65-year-old vines and a year and winter vegetables. of oak aging. Maté % Ruca Malen Merlot * Few national pastimes On international testers’ attract such a devoted following palettes for a while, this Merlot has fantastic flavor at as drinking maté, the semi-bitter an unbeatable price. brew sipped at all hours. Hot water is poured on the herb ^ Trapiche Cabernet inside a gourd-shaped container Sauvignon and sipped through a filtered From Argentina’s most famous winery, this Cabernet metal straw. Try one at Cumanã is a steal at around US$4. (see p71). & Trapiche Malbec Fugazzetta Rellena Argentina’s most popular ( Poke around the pizzeria- export, next to tango and football stars. clogged intersection of Callao and Corrientes and you will see * Cafayate Torrontés that porteños make pizza their The white Torrontés grape own way. The fugazzetta rellena is province Salta’s contribution is proof enough – double-crusted to Argentinian wine-making. pie, filled with cheese and ham, ( Roble Chardonnay and topped with mozzarella, Bodega Los Haroldos oregano, and Vidalia onions. There is nothing subtle about this wine: lots of oak, so it Alfajores sits well with heavy game and even beef. ) The Oreo cookie of Argentina, alfajores can be mass- ) Bodegas Caro produced snacks that are avail- Cabernet Sauvignon able at any kiosk, or handmade This hard-to-find Cabernet is delicacies sold at bakery shops. the effort of the Domaines Barons de Rothschild-Lafite Endless combinations exist, from group and a Mendoza family. maicena to chocolate-dipped. Situated in the west of Argentina, Mendoza is known as land of 53 good sun and good wine. Left La Cholita Right Cabaña Las Lilas Parrillas
El Desnivel La Cabrera ! The archetypal no-frills $ A gorgeously romantic spot, parrilla, Desnivel brims with La Cabrera comprises two small locals, tourists, and artists. rooms characterized by bare-brick Faded pictures hang on walls and walls, mosaic floors, and wooden the waiters are the cheeriest in furniture. The steaks are some of town. Slabs of steak sizzle on the best in town, and the wine the open grill before being whisk- list is excellent. Outdoor tables ed to tables. d Map F3 • Defensa are available as well (see p93).
Buenos Aires’ Top 10 855, San Telmo • 4300-9081 • Open noon–4pm & from 7:30pm daily • $$$ La Cholita % Both the decor and the El Obrero menu here pay homage to @ Bono, Francis Ford Coppola, Argentina’s countryside – think and Robert Duvall are just three mustard walls, rustic stone stars to have joined locals at this flooring, and wooden furnishings. atmospheric gem of a parrilla, The kitchen serves up crackling, opened in 1954. Hearty meat, inexpensive steaks, tasty mini- fish, and pasta mains are follow- empanadas, and divine desserts. ed by huge, creamy desserts. Try the cayote jam with walnut Service is super-friendly. d Map and cheese. d Map N5 • Rodríguez H5 • Agustín R. Caffarena 64, La Boca Peña 1165, Recoleta • 4815-4506 • Open • 4362-9912 • Open noon–4pm & from noon–2am daily • $$$ 8pm Mon–Sat • $$$ El Trapiche La Brigada ^ Located in the trendy £ The legendary La Brigada Palermo district, El Trapiche combines authentic parrilla exudes old-world charm. No ambience with first-rate cuisine. extravagant industrial-chic or The delightful decor has a low fancy fusion cuisine here, just timber ceiling and whitewashed walls plastered with soccer memorabilia. Service is super-fast and the steaks are fabulous. Try, too, the delicious chinchulín and molleja delicacies. d Map F3 • Estados Unidos 465, San Telmo • 4361-4685 • Open noon–3:30pm & from 8pm daily • $$$$ Chiquilín 54 Parrillas are steak-houses or grill restaurants. old walls lined with racks of wine bottles, a bustling atmosphere, and a menu that features juicy steaks plus fish, pasta, and sea-
food favorites (see p93). Buenos Aires’ Top 10
Sabot & Sabot serves classic Argentinian cuisine in a down- town location. The menu comprises exquisite parrilla, La Dorita pasta, fish, and seafood dishes: the pink-salmon main, served desserts. The snappy service grilled and with a slice of lemon, adds to Chiquilín’s charm. d Map is a lighter alternative to meatier N6 • Sarmiento 1599, Congreso • 4373- plates. The decor is cozy with 5163 • Open noon–2am daily • $$$$ ceiling beams and wall panels. The excellent service rounds off La Dorita a pleasing dining experience ) This atmospheric corner (see p85). restaurant combines a snug interior with a first-rate grill. Cabaña Las Lilas The classic parilla menu * This high-end parrilla is includes a delightful pork- famed for its tender grilled sausage appetizer, a grilled steaks. Choose the ojo de bife tenderloin sandwich, and the signature cut and wash it down tables de carne main in which with one of 700 Argentinian and you choose three of five classic imported wines while relaxing cuts to share between two within a soothing interior of dark people. Wash it all down with hardwoods and soft leathers. A wine poured from the barrel and spacious terrace has lovely water- served in clay jugs. Outside front views (see p85). tables are available, but inside is much more romantic. d Map J3 • ( Chiquilín Humboldt 1905 • 4773-0070 • Open Opened in 1927, this famous noon–4pm & from 8pm Mon–Sat • $$$ tango spot breathes $93 $ 5( 9 $9 tradition. Potted 1BMFSNP ' 6) 3 ( 5 $ / $/ ( 6 9 / &2 5 2 6$ 4DBMBCSJOJ ,% 6 67 17$ ( 57$ & plants, sacks of dry- 8 5 $ - )( 0SUJ[ 7$ 67,// % '2 2 - 5 9 3DOHUPR cured ham, and $ $= ' 1 (/ $9 1 ' antique ceiling fans 5( 2 52 5 /$ &TUBDJØO & < $/ &2 & EFM3FUJSP 5 8( 9 hang from the rafters ' $9 $ 2% "HàFSP 3 $ $96&$/$%5,1,257,=12 $ 9 $ 6$ ( above a busy main 5 17$ ) ' %DUULR1RUWH (
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6DQ&ULVWREDO $93$6(2&2/1 6$1-8$1 pastas make filling $9(1,'$ 4BO+VBO *$5 $< '( mains, and are -8$1 1 ,' $ followed by rich, $9( &RQVWLWXFLµQ calorie-charged NJMFT LN For price categories, See p85. 55 Left Duhau Restaurante and Vinoteca Center Cabaña Las Lilas Right La Bourgogne Restaurants
Cabaña Las Lilas Duhau Restaurante ! Travelers and porteños alike $ and Vinoteca have been seduced by Cabaña Extraordinary service, nuanced Las Lilas’ beef since 1995. Meat food preparation, and grandeur arrives from the restaurant’s own are all part of the Duhau dining estancia. Its flavor is legendary, experience. There is seating in a and so is the price (see p85). tranquil outdoor garden, the warmly appointed dining room, @ Patagonia Sur or in the vinoteca – a comfort-
Buenos Aires’ Top 10 Buenos Aires’ Top 10 Star chef Francis able space where Mallmann’s prix fixe cheeses pair up with menu changes Malbecs and artisanal regularly, spotlighting Patagonia Sur sign breads (see p71). in-season ingredients like calafate berries and Andean Oui Oui potatoes. Desserts and wines % The bright, airy Oui Oui is are stellar, as is the intimate one of Palermo’s most pleasant setting (see p77). surprises. Come for light egg dishes, lemonades, soufflés, Ølsen tarts, brioches, soups, and £ The cavernous Olsen has savory waffles. It is ideal for a begun polarizing the porteño merienda, or afternoon bite. tastemakers who initially pegged d Map J2 • Calle Nicaragua 6068 • 4778- it to the international style map, 9614 • Open 8am–8pm Tue–Fri, 10am– yet the scene is still there to 8pm Sat–Sun • www.ouioui.com.ar • $ make: Scandinavian preparations of finger foods, a lively brunch, Brasserie Petanque and an outdoor patio for sipping ^ This is pitch-perfect French a vodka cocktail (see p93). bistro dining. Massive windows open onto Defensa in warm months, making for one of the capital’s most boister- ous foodie scenes. The daily catch on the specials board is always exceptional, as is the well- selected paté platter for starters. The waiters know their wines and how to pair The bar of Brasserie Petanque them too (see p77). 56 Nectarine Top 10 Cafés and & Surrender to a memorable gastronomic experience at this Confiterías handsome French nouvelle ! El Petit Colón This is the post- restaurant, with its eight- or 10- Buenos Aires’ Top 10 performance drink and course menu. The exposed discussion spot of the city. kitchen allows unfettered view- d Map P6 • Calle Libertad 505 ing of masters at work (see p71). @ Café Tortoni La Bourgogne Tortoni prepares the best * churros con chocolate caliente Chef Jean Paul Bondoux in the city (see p26). relishes utilizing local ingredi- ents, particularly Malbec wine, in £ Pride Café his cooking. Gourmets from the White walls, modernist world over come here for the lighting, and alfresco frontage distinguish this gay-friendly food (see p71). café (see p49). $ Bar 6 The daily happy hour (6:30–8:30pm) at this bar/café attracts the neighborhood crowd (see p92). % La Biela Watch people pass by while having your sandwich tostado and coffee (see p70). ^ Clásica y Moderna This part-bookstore and part-café charms with its live piano (see p70). & Bar Plaza Dorrego The coffee is made to order, salads are ample, and The interior of Tomo 1 waiters are on the charming side of brusque (see p77). ( Tomo 1 * Bar El Federal No other restaurant in Order a liquored-up coffee Buenos Aires delivers on porteño and admire the vintage cuisine’s potential like Tomo 1. fixtures. d Map F5 • Cnr Calles The duck ravioli in fruit reduction, Perú & Carlos Calvo • 4300-4313 poached Patagonian trout with ( Bar Británico mint, and passion-fruit mousse Witness the porteño art justify Tomo 1’s almost 40-year of making a coffee last two pedigree (see p85). hours in this 24-hour open bar. d Map F4 • Cnr of Calles Brasil & Defensa • 4361-2107 ) Casa Cruz Behind imposing golden ) La Americana doors lies the brooding, opulent Come to this pizzeria for Casa Cruz. Delicate, moderate slow lunches, empanadas, portions of Asian and Argentinian and fugazzetta rellena pie (see p53). d Map D1 • Avda. Callao cuisine are nibbled by Buenos 83 • 4371-0202 Aires’ elite (see p93). For price ranges, See p71. 57 Left Former president Juan Domingo Perón Right Jorge Rafael Videla Porteño Personalities
Diego Maradona (b. 1960) Evita Perón (1919–52) ! Known as “El Diez,” % María Eva Duarte, a Pampas- “El Pibe,” “Dios”, by his jersey born actress and dancer, was number, as “the kid” or, simply, one half of the Argentinian “God,” Diego Maradona is the power couple of the century with face of Argentinian soccer. His General Juan Perón. Her adoring two goals in the 1986 quarter- legions called her by the Spanish final against England are the diminutive “Evita” and her most infamous and sublime in mausoleum in the Recoleta (see
Buenos Aires’ Top 10 World Cup history. p10) is never without a bouquet or a crowd. Carlos Gardel (1890–1935) @ “Gardel sings better every Juan Perón (1895–1974) day,” so goes the refrain in ^ Juan Domingo Perón was a Buenos Aires. Such is the pro-working class, populist unwavering love for this tango president who promoted social legend, whose singing and welfare programs. Also a Nazi songwriting helped break tango sympathizer, he actively aided worldwide (see pp28–9). former SS officers to immigrate to Argentina. Despite his mixed Susana Gimenez (b. 1944) legacy, the political movement £ Former actress and current with his name is still powerful. talk-show host, Susana Gimenez, though close to retirement age, Charly García (b. 1951) does not look a day over 35. & Together with Luis Spinetta, She can still be seen gracing Charly García gave rock ‘n roll a magazine covers and high-profile rioplatense accent. After his first social gatherings every week. band, Sui Generis, dissolved in 1975, Garcia’s solo career Carlos Menem (b. 1930) launched him into rock en $ Former president Menem’s tax incen- tives for foreign inves- tors facilitated Puerto Madero’s reinvention in the 1990s. Still, it is his image of being ordered by the Congress to relinquish a Ferrari gifted by businessmen, that has come to symbolize his corrupt presidency. Former president Carlos Menem 58 Porteños are people native to or inhabiting the port city of Buenos Aires. Top 10 Argentinian Musical Stars ! Fito Páez A piano balladeer, Páez’s talents include writing films. Buenos Aires’ Top 10 @ Andrés Calamaro The gritty-voiced Calamaro paid homage to Bob Dylan in 2007 with La Lengua Popular. £ Soda Stereo Author Jorge Luis Borges The Latin American band of the 1980s and ‘90s, Soda español. Now semi-retired, he reunited in 2007 for a tour. does occasional live shows, the $ Patricio Rey most memorable being the one This artist infused old-rock on the Madres’ 30th anniversary ‘n roll with Buenos Aires in 2007 (see p9). slang, or lunfardo.
Jorge Luis Borges % La Renga * Adding the metal-tinged (1899–1986) guitar to 1980s rock, La Renga In death, the laureate of Buenos highlighted the poverty Aires enjoys as high a literary plaguing the city’s barrios. profile as he did in life. Borges’ existential novellas, The Aleph ^ Attaque 77 Skater punks Attaque and The Secret Miracle, are have been the conscience required accessories for any of porteño youth for self-respecting philosophy and two decades. letters under-graduate. & Bersuit Vergarabat Bersuit led the rock Jorge Rafael Videla ( nacional scene of the 1990s (b. 1925) and early 2000s, championing After the restoration of drunken anti-heroes. democracy in 1983, self- appointed president General * Los Fabulosos Cadillacs Videla was in and out of jail, The band’s 1994 hit, Matador, courtrooms, hospitals, and, at is still a frequent request, time of writing, under house though the singer Vincentico arrest following charges of has since found solo success. human rights abuses. Porteño ( Gustavo Santaolalla street graffiti calls for his retrial. Santaolalla is a popular Argentinian musician and Torcuato de Alvear wrote the soundtracks for ) (1822–90) Brokeback Mountain and The If Buenos Aires is likened to Motorcycle Diaries. Paris, a debt is owed to the city’s ) Juana Molina first mayor, Torcuato de Alvear. Molina, distinguished by He oversaw the urban planning her ethereal voice and quirky of Recoleta as well as Avenida pop instrumentation, has de Mayo, and began recorded some of the most critically acclaimed albums of infrastructure projects that the past decade. facilitated the capital’s growth. Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com 59 Left Museo de los Niños Center Parque 3 de Febrero Right Planetario Galileo Galilei Activities for Children
Museo Argentino Tren de la Costa ! del Títere $ This train skirts the Rio de la This museum displays antique Plata between Olivos and Tigre puppets from countries as (see p96). Enjoy river beaches, diverse as Romania, Indonesia, Rollerblading, and bike-riding en Costa Rica, and India. Puppet route. The Parque de la Costa shows are staged on weekends. and Delta are nearby. d 4002-6000 d Map E3 • Piedras 905, San Telmo • Open 6:30am–11pm • Adm • 4304-4376 • Open 3–6pm Tue–Fri; • www.trendelacosta.com.ar
Buenos Aires’ Top 10 Buenos Aires’ Top 10 3–7pm Sat–Sun • Adm for shows • www.museoargdeltitere.com.ar
Planetario Galileo Galilei @ Educational and highly enjoyable, the daily shows at the city’s spaceship-shaped planet- arium, take you on a journey through the cosmos, as you sit comfortably beneath a giant domed ceiling. Narrations are in Spanish and English (see p89). River Delta boat ride
Museo Argentino de River Delta Boat Rides # Ciencias Naturales % The Delta is a lush micro- The natural sciences museum habitat of water channels and features dinosaur displays, an dense islands. One or two-hour aquarium, an Antarctic section, boat rides will have you and the and rooms of amphibians, rep- kids feeling like Indiana Jones. tiles, and insects. Have snacks at d Launches depart from the Estación the “Bottom of the Sea” café. Fluvial de Tigre: Mitre 305, Tigre • 4512- d Map J6 • Avda. Angel Gallardo 470, 4497 • Adm • www.tigre.gov.ar Caballito • 4982-1154 • Open 2–7pm daily • Adm • www.macn.gov.ar La Calle de los Títeres ^ This “puppet street” is a popular attraction. Families gather in the courtyard of an 1840s house, where children take part in art workshops before the puppet shows begin. Great for three- to seven-year-olds. d Map D5 • Centro Cultural del Sur, Avda. Caseros 1750, Constitución • 4305-6653 Museo Argentino de Ciencias Naturales • Open 4–6pm Sat–Sun (closed Jan, Feb) 60 Top 10 Children’s Stores ! Barbie Store Barbie-themed fashion, toys, beauty center, teahouse, Buenos Aires’ Top 10 and playroom. d Map M3 • Avda. Scalabrini Ortíz 3170, Palermo • 0810-4444-227243
Chibel Children with camel, Jardín Zoológico @ Wide selection of kids’ wear. d Map K4 • El Salvador Jardín Zoológico 4611, Palermo Viejo • 4832-6222 & Snow leopards and Bengal tigers are the stars of this zoo, £ Imaginarium but other attractions include an Games, dolls, music kits, and more. d Map M4 • Shop- aquarium, boat rides, and a farm ping Alto, Palermo • 5777-8314 where children can milk cows, bake bread, and guess animals $ Viva La Pepa via sound and texture (see p89). Handmade designs include vintage-inspired party dresses. d Map K3 • Armenia Museo de los Niños 1786, Palermo Viejo • 4831-1411 * In this mini-city, kids can shop at a supermarket, work an % Cheeky airport X-ray machine, crawl Cute clothes for new d through waterworks, pilot a borns–12 year-olds. Map P5 • Avda. Santa Fe 1499, Barrio plane, film a TV show, and Norte • 4813-1875 partake in myriad other activities. d Map L6 • Avda. Corrientes 3247, ^ Owoko Abasto • 4861-2325 • Open Mar–Dec Fun designs using high- d 1–8pm Tue–Sun; Jan–Feb 1–8pm daily quality fabrics. Map K4 • El Salvador 4694, Palermo Viejo • Adm • www.museodelosninos.org.ar • 4831-1259 Parque de la Costa & Bukito ( This popular amusement Well-priced toys, clothes, park has rides from bumper cars babyseats, and more. d Map L6 • Avda. Corrientes to adrenalin-pumping roller 3247, Abasto • 4959-3423 coasters. Combine with a Delta boat trip for the perfect day out. * Mimo and Co d Vivanco 1509, Tigre • 4002-6000 This chain store stocks • Open 11am–8pm Fri–Sun • Adm clothes and accessories. d Map L6 • Avda. Corrientes • www.parquedelacosta.com.ar 3247, Abasto • 4959-3545 Parque 3 de Febrero ( Super Baby ) Float across a lake in a Browse the collection pedal-powered boat or rowboat, whilst kids play with puppets. d Map L3 • Armenia 2302, rent Rollerblades or a bike, visit Palermo Viejo • 4833-6636 rose and Japanese gardens, or ride in a horse -drawn carriage at ) Gabriela de Bianchetti this lovely park. Combine with a Original designs with flowery motifs on exclusive visit to the nearby city zoo and d d fabrics. Map K4 • Scalabrini planetarium. Map L2 • Avda. del Ortíz 1305 • 4831-6941 Libertador y Avda. Sarmiento Most children’s stores in Buenos Aires cater to children aged 61 0–12 years.
AROUND TOWN
Barrio Norte, Recoleta
& Around BUENOS AIRES’ TOP 10 64–71 San Telmo & La Boca 72–77 Microcentro, Puerto Madero & Retiro 80–85 Palermo 86–93 Beyond Buenos Aires 94–99 Left Avenida de Mayo Right Teatro Colón Barrio Norte, Recoleta & Around T THE HEART OF BUENOS AIRES LIES the Plaza de Mayo (see pp8–9), A from which several distinct neighborhoods radiate. Encompassing the Plaza is historic Monserrat, which is crammed with colonial buildings. Head north from here and you reach the rich northern neighborhoods of Barrio Norte and Recoleta. Travel west and you hit the colorful working-class districts of Once, the spiritual home of the city’s Jewish community, and Abasto, the tango neighborhood that gave the world Carlos Gardel (see p28). Grand avenues link these neighborhoods to each other. The oldest of them all, Avenida de Mayo, has stunning belle-époque architecture (see pp14–15).
Sights
1 Avenida 9 de Julio 6 Centro Cultural Recoleta 2 Avenida de Mayo 7 Museo de la Ciudad 3 Museo Nacional de 8 Teatro Colón
Barrio Norte , Recoleta & Around Bellas Artes 9 Manzana de las Luces 4 Cementerio de la 0 Museo Casa Carlos Recoleta Gardel 5 Avenida Corrientes Café in Avenida Corrientes
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64 Preceding pages Fountain at the Congreso Nacional Museo Nacional £ de Bellas Artes Buenos Aires’ fine arts museum, the
MNBA was founded Barrio Norte, Recoleta & Around in 1896 and houses over 12,000 works of art. Permanent collections on display Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes include pre-Columbian art, Argentinian art of Avenida 9 de Julio the 19th and 20th centuries, and ! Conceived in the 1930s as a international art by old and means of alleviating gridlocked modern masters, including Goya, north-south traffic in the city El Greco, Van Gogh, Picasso, center, Avenida 9 de Julio cut a Kandinsky, and Miró. An 459-ft (140-m) wide swath from auditorium screens films daily Constitución station to Retiro. (see pp16–17). The city’s youngest public work, this avenue creates a symbolic Cementerio de la Recoleta link between the traditionally $ Explored via a labyrinth of working-class southern barrios streets and narrow alleys, and the aristocratic north, yet the Cementerio de la Recoleta, the frenetic span in between knows fabulous city of the dead, is the no such distinctions. Along this burial place of presidents, busy and exciting street, a visitor military generals, and patrician is as likely to enjoy a 10-peso families of Argentina. Its high pizza along its jacaranda-lined walls protect mausoleums of flanks as catch a deluxe tango granite and bronze topped by dinner show in a neighboring cupolas and marble sculptures hotel’s ballroom (see pp20–21). of angels and crying mothers. Its most famous resident is Avenida de Mayo Evita Perón (see p58), though @ The city’s first great the most beautiful tomb is that boulevard, the grand Avenida de of José C. Paz (see pp10–11). Mayo was built in 1894 to link Argentina’s two seats of governmental power – the Casa Rosada presidential palace and the Palacio del Congreso. Fronted by Parisian palaces and cupolas, the Avenue’s magnificent architecture is a reflection of Buenos Aires’ Francophile pretensions of the time. Ironic, then, that it was the Spanish community who made the avenue its own, lining it with Iberian cafés, restaurants, and bars, most of which are open and very popular even today (see pp14–15). Cementerio de la Recoleta 65 Shalom Buenos Aires Buenos Aires is home to Latin America’s biggest Jewish community, and its hub is the barrio of Once. This bustling, colorful, traffic-choked district is lined with Jewish businesses, delicatessens, kosher restaurants, and temples. At its heart is the AMIA building, the site of one of two Jewish-targeted terrorist attacks in the 1990s (see p33). Exhibits at Museo de la Ciudad
and a roof-top terrace where % Avenida Corrientes performances take place in The center of the city’s summer. d Map N3 • Junín 1930 theater district, this legendary • 4803-1040 • Open 2–9pm Mon–Fri, thoroughfare was called “the 10am–9pm Sat–Sun • www.centrocultural avenue that never sleeps” in the recoleta.org 1940s, when it overflowed with theaters and movie theaters. Museo de la Ciudad Today, it is a tad bedraggled & Housed in a private resi- though the theaters remain. dence dating from 1894, this It is also lined with cafés and museum includes recreations of bookstores, including excellent Art Nouveau and Art Deco second-hand stores (see p69). bedrooms, a typical 1900s office, d Map P6 and a dining room from the 1950s. Other displays feature Centro Cultural Recoleta antique children’s toys, ^ A vibrant contemporary art architectural antiques, and period space, this cultural center furniture and paintings. The occupies the old Recoleta Farmacia de la Estrella in the monastery, built in 1732. Twenty same block is a functioning separate galleries host tempo- pharmacy open since 1834. rary exhibitions. Exhibits are It includes ceiling frescoes and edgy, provocative, and rich in an antique counter and weighing social, political, and religious scales. d Map F2 • Defensa 219, comment. There is also a micro- Montserrat • 4331-9855 • Open movie theater, an auditorium 11am–7pm daily • Adm housed in the monastery chapel, Around Town – Barrio Norte, Recoleta, and several multifunctional spaces, Teatro Colón * Inaugurated in 1908, the Teatro Colón is one of the world’s great opera houses. Opera, ballet, and classical music concerts take place in its auditorium and past performers have included Pavarotti, Nureyev, and María Callas. You can take a guided tour of its majestic interior, auditorium, salons, and labyrinth of workshops and Centro Cultural Recoleta rehearsal rooms (see pp12–13). 66 Manzana de las Luces A Day of Monuments ( The city’s historical heart, Manzana de las Luces (The Block Morning of Enlightenment), is a complex Have breakfast at La
of Jesuit and government Americana (see p57) Around Town – Barrio Norte, Recoleta, and buildings dating from the mid- before walking east down 17th century. Highlights include Avenida de Mayo, admiring this avenue’s the city’s oldest church – Iglesia fabulous architecture, in San Ignacio – built in 1668, the particular the Art Nouveau old Jesuits’ headquarters, the Hotel Chile (see p14) and Sala de Representantes, and the the Neo-Gothic Palacio Colegio Nacional de Buenos Barolo (see p14). At the avenue’s intersection with Aires. Running beneath the block Perú, turn right after two are tunnels built in the 1690s to blocks for Manzana de las link this site with the Plaza de Luces and take a thrilling Mayo. d Map F2 • Perú 272, journey back in time to 17th-century Buenos Aires. Montserrat • 4342-6973 • www. Continue this historical manzanadelasluces.gov.ar thread by exploring Manzana’s jumble of Museo Casa Carlos Gardel adjoining streets, popping ) This museum is set within into the Museo de la the house Gardel (see p28) Ciudad. Return to Avenida de Mayo for shared with his mother in the coffee and croissants at years prior to his death in 1933. Café Tortoni (see p15). A typical casa chorizo, from early Walk west to Avenida 9 20th-century Buenos Aires, the de Julio (see p65), where house displays Gardel’s eventful you can take a tour of the beautiful Teatro Colón. life through the family photos, vinyl records, and movie posters Afternoon on display. A micro-movie-theater Head to Recoleta, and shows Gardel’s old movies and a take lunch at La Biela (see section of the house has been p70). Post-meal, wander restored to show how he lived. the streets and alleys of the Cementerio de la d Map M5 • Jean Jaurés 735, Abasto Recoleta (see p65), which • 4964-2015 • Open 11am–6pm Mon, is directly opposite. Then Wed–Fri; 10am–7pm Sat–Sun • Adm browse contemporary art • www.museos.buenosaires.gov.ar at the Centro Cultural Recoleta. Head up to the roof terrace here for lovely views. From the Centro Cultural cross Plaza Francia (see p37) to the Avenida Alvear. Walk three blocks east along Alvear to the Alvear Palace Hotel (see p112), where you can stop for high tea. Heading east again, explore high- fashion boutiques before turning right at the inter- section with Libertad to end your day with wine and dinner at Gran Bar Danzón (see p70). Museo Casa Carlos Gardel After visiting the Museo Casa Carlos Gardel, stroll the adjacent 67 Zelaya street, a colorful side-street decorated with tango murals. Left Kosiuko Center Tramando Right Ona Sáez Recoleta Stores
Puro Diseño Lulu of London ! Housed within the city’s & This exclusive beauty salon’s mecca for interior design – services include waxing, aroma- Buenos Aires Design – Puro therapy, and massages. Do make Diseño specializes in household prior appointment. d Map N5 products with a modern, • Rodríguez Peña 1057 • 4815-8471 innovative twist. d Map N3 • Avda. Pueyrredón 2501 • 5777-6104 María Vásquez * This flower-filled boutique is Tramando the perfect showcase for María @ This boutique is dedicated Vásquez’s gorgeously chic collec- to women’s wear and interior tion, aimed at 20–35-year-old design. Collections are super- women. The prices are also stylish, handmade, and very exclusive. d Map P4 • Libertad 1632 exclusive. d Map P4 • Rodríguez Peña • 4815-6333 1973 • 4811-0465 Celedonio Barrio Norte, Recoleta & Around Kosiuko ( This jewelry designer hand- £ Kosiuko stocks funky men’s, crafts stunning necklaces in women’s, and children’s wear, all dashing baroque designs, using at good prices. d Map N5 • Avda. silver and semi-precious stones Santa Fe 1779 • 4815-2555 such as jade, coral, and river pearl. d Map P4 • Galería Promenade, Ona Sáez Avda. Alvear 1883 • 4809-0046 $ Sáez’s collections feature combat pants, men’s evening Benedit Bis wear, slinky cocktail dresses, and ) The Benedit sisters design great daywear. d Map N5 • Avda. striking daywear for young Santa Fe 1651 • 4813-2834 women. Designs come in bold colors and light fabrics. d Map P4 % Vasalissa • Galería Promenade, Avda. Alvear 1883 Ingredients of the imported • 4806-0985 Belgian chocolates sold here $9 '( / include passion fruit, champagne, $9*(1 /,% (57 $' and cassis. d Map P4 • Avda. Callao 25 1 (' 1940 • 4806-4158 &$8675,$ 55 (< /$6+(5$6 38 2 $ / / $ &TUBDJØO '$ & ' EFM3FUJSP 1, $ De Maria 9 7 $ 5 ( $9( 3/$=$ % ^ ,
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P6 • Avda. Corrientes 1479 • 4371-0633 • 4371-0633 1479 Corrientes Avda. P6 • three auditoriums and an art- house cinema. It holds first-rate ballet productions. productions as well as imported as imported productions as well shows. Broadway-style rabilia and reproductions. Best Best rabilia and reproductions. superb facilities that include that include superb facilities inexpensive gifts, with big candy with big candy gifts, inexpensive hearts and chocolatey love images of national icons. Metropolitan stages local of Avenida Corrientes. It has It has Corrientes. Avenida of the same family by been run of German descent since 1933. of all are the antique theater of all are the antique theater posters. bookstores on Corrientes. The The bookstores on Corrientes. theater upstairs hosts plays on weekends. 1660 • 6320-5310 6320-5310 • 1660 house recalls the 1930s heyday heyday house recalls the 1930s
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El Banderín Clásica y Moderna ! This jewel of a café opened & This sophisticated spot has in 1926. Come for old-style bare-brick walls, low lighting, and charm, tasty sandwiches, and a stone floor. Tango musicians wine by the copa. d Map L5 • play nightly. d Map N5 • Avda. Callao Guardia Vieja 3601, Almagro • 4862-7757 892, Barrio Norte • 4812-8707
Bar Celta Gran Bar Danzón @ A relaxing escape with a * This Recoleta wine bar and lounge room and comfy sofas, restaurant has candlelit entrance Bar Celta is open 24 hours – a stairs and an industrial-chic good choice for post-clubbing interior. The wine list is superb breakfasts. Live jazz plays on and the Modern Latin American Wednesdays. d Map N6 • Sarmiento cuisine divine. d Map P5 • Libertad 1701, Congreso • 4371-7338 1161, Recoleta • 4811-1108
Barrio Norte, Recoleta & Around The Shamrock Buller Brewing Company £ This bar attracts a stylish ( This American-style bar crowd. Its basement club fills on produces its own beers. It fills weekends when DJs spin house up on the weekends with a party music. d Map N5 • Rodríguez Peña crowd. d Map P4 • Presidente Roberto 1220, Recoleta • 4812-3584 M. Ortíz 1827, Recoleta • 4808-9061
Milión La Biela $ Set in a century-old mansion, ) A historic corner café which this romantic bar-gallery features was once a favorite haunt of the Art Nouveau staircases and city’s intelligentsia and Formula stained-glass windows. d Map P5 One racing driver Juan Manuel • Paraná 1048, Recoleta • 4815-9925 Fangio. The beautifully preserved interior opens onto an outside % Notorious terrace. d Map P4 • Avda. Quintana At this jazz bar-café, musi- 600, Recoleta • 4804-0449 cians play in the back bar. In the $ 9 ' 4DBMBCSJOJ (/ front salon, you can slip on head- /,% 0SUJ[ (57 $'25 phones and enjoy Coltrane or &$/ $9 /( 6$ 1 & 7 +$ $ Ellington. d Map N5 • Avda. Callao 5& )( &$8675,$ $ &TUBDJØOEFM 6 3FUJSP 966, Barrio Norte • 4813-6888 "HàFSP 1VFZSSFEØO (FO4BO.BSUÓO Jack The Ripper $BMMBP $9&5'2%$ ^ $BSMPT &$//( /$9$//( (BSEFM This bar in an elegant belle &$1&+25(1$ &6$50,( 172 EF+VMJP époque mansion has chandeliers, 0ODF $9&$//$2 $9(1,'$5,9$'$9,$ $9'(0$<2 1MB[B.BZP antiques, and velvet sofas. d Map $POHSFTP
7FOF[VFMB $9 '(-8/,2 #FMHSBOP P4 • Libertad 1275, Recoleta • 4816-7508 70 Price Categories For a three-course $ under US$10 meal for one with half $$ US$11–15 a bottle of wine (or $$$ US$16–25 equivalent meal), taxes, $$$$ US$26–35 and extra charges. $$$$$ over US$35 Barrio Norte, Recoleta & Around Interior of the Duhau Restaurant Restaurants ! Mamá Jacinta superlative ceviche, and pisco This kosher restaurant in the sour. d Map D1 • Virrey Cevallos 178, city’s Jewish quarter features Congreso • 4382-8531 • $$$ Ashkenazi and Sephardic dishes as well as kosher Argentinian & Campo dei Fiori staples. d Map M5 • Tucumán 2580, This Italian restaurant within Congreso • 4962-9149 • $$$$ a mansion house serves pastas, fish, and meats prepared in an @ Duhau Restaurant open kitchen. d Map D2 • Venezuela Sample Gallic-inspired 1411, Montserrat • 4381-1800 • $$$ cuisine amid vaulted ceilings and sumptuous furnishings. * Cumaná d Map P4 • Park Hyatt Buenos Aires, Regional specialties includ- Avda. Alvear 1661 • 5171-1340 • $$$$$ ing locro and empanadas (see p53) are served at Cumaná, £ Nectarine along with Italian dishes. d Map French cuisine is superbly N5 • Rodríguez Peña 1149, Recoleta prepared here. The wine list is • 4813-9207 • $$$ outstanding and the ambience inviting. d Map P4 • Vicente López ( Restó 1661, Recoleta • 4813-6993 • $$$$$ Set in a beautiful building, Restó serves excuisite Modern $ La Bourgogne Argentinian cuisine. d Map P5 In the city’s only relais • Montevideo 938, Recoleta • 4816-6711 gourmand restaurant, a superb • $$$ wine list complements well- executed French cuisine. d Map ) El Cuartito P4 • Alvear Palace Hotel, Ayacucho 2027, Opened in 1934, El Cuartito Recoleta • 4805-3857 • $$$$$ is a classic family-run pizza joint. The Italian-style pizzas here are % Cantina Pierino delicious. d Map P5 • Talcahuano 937, Opened in 1909, this Italian Barrio Norte • 4816-1758 • $ cantina became the haunt of $ 9 ' ( / Astor Piazzolla and Aníbal Troilo / ,% 4DBMBCSJOJ (57$' (see p28). Home-made pastas 0SUJ[ 25 1 (' 55 are served along with a variety &$8675,$ (< &TUBDJØOEFM
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HE ROMANTIC BARRIOS OF SAN TELMO AND LA BOCA are Buenos Aires’ Tmythical old south. Once the heart of colonial Buenos Aires, San Telmo beguiles with cobblestone streets of crumbling churches, colonial façades, and dusty antiques stores. A working-class stronghold and magnet for Bohemian artists, it remains, despite ongoing gentrification, a quarter of old cafés, peeling stucco, and tango bars. Tango emerged from La Boca’s conventillos (tenement house). La Boca was the city’s first port and an African slave colony before Italian immigrants settled here in the 1880s. One of the city’s poorest neighborhoods, it retains a thriving cultural scene. Around Town – San Telmo & La Boca Art for sale on El Caminito
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immigrants. Made of corrugated Around Town – San Telmo & La Boca zinc, the multi-hued paint scheme dates back to the original inhabitants, who coated the houses in leftover paint from the adjacent port. Today, the street is part of a vibrant scene that includes artists selling their wares, along with atmospheric tango bars and cafés. d Map G6 The narrow façade of Casa Mínima
La Bombonera 20th century, the museum holds @ La Bombonera (The Choco- six temporary exhibitions each late Box) is the iconic home of year. Previous memorable shows Boca Juniors, the country’s have included Diego Rivera and fanatically followed soccer club Marcel Duchamp. d Map G6 • Avda. and Diego Maradona’s beloved Pedro de Mendoza 1929, La Boca • 4104- team. Built in 1940, the stadium 1000 • Open 11am–7pm Tue–Sun • Adm is electrifying on game days. Its • www.proa.org three distinct tiers rise almost vertically above the field. d Map $ Casa Mínima G6 • Brandsen 805, La Boca • 4362-1100 The littlest house in San • Open 10am–6pm daily • Adm Telmo, Casa Mínima measures a • www.bocajuniors.com.ar tiny 8 ft by 26 ft (2 m by 8 m). It was originally a carriage entrance Fundación Proa to the mansion next door, but £ Housed in a recycled port was gifted by the owner to his building, the Fundación Proa is freed slaves in 1813. d Map F3 one of the city’s most stimulat- • Pasaje Lorenzo 380, San Telmo • 4361- ing art spaces. Showcasing 3002 • Tours: 10:30am, 3pm Mon–Fri major art movements of the • Adm • www.elzanjon.com.ar
The tiered seating at La Bombonera soccer stadium San Telmo is the best place to buy filete, a flamboyant folk art that 73 commonly adorns storefronts, buses, and tango halls. Yellow Fever antiques market (see p18). On In 1871 a deadly yellow fever weekdays, it is an ideal spot for outbreak engulfed Buenos Aires, alfresco drinks and snacks. devastating San Telmo. Richer d Map F3 inhabitants moved north to the new districts of Recoleta and Museo de la Pasión Barrio Norte, initiating a period of & Boquense decay in the city’s south. The This chintzy museum revels in poverty gap between the city’s the glory of the Boca Juniors wealthy northern neighborhoods and their poorer southern Club. Items on display include counterparts was thus born. soccer trophies won over the years, vintage strips, and retro videos, including grainy 1920s Parque Lezama/Museo footage. Expect gimmicky stuff % Histórico Nacional too – have your ‘‘photo’’ taken Popular with picnicking families, with a grinning Maradona or buy this landscaped park of tropical a bottle of La Boca wine in the tipa trees, sweeping green club store. d Map G6 • Brandsen 805, spaces, and a broad viewing La Boca • 4362-1100 • Open 10am–6pm balcony, was once the private daily • Adm • www.museoboquense.com garden of the Lezama family. The Lezama home, a beautiful Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa Italianate mansion, now houses * The 1901 construction of this the Museo Histórico Nacional – beautiful Russian Orthodox Argentina’s national history Church confirmed San Telmo as museum. Fascinating displays a bubbling melting pot of recount Argentina’s history from immigrant cultures. Its striking pre-Columbian times to the design – a blue-and-white onion- 20th century, and include the domed affair – was drawn up in founding of Buenos Aires at this Moscow and financed by d Around Town – San Telmo and La Boca spot (see p32). Map F4 Russia’s imperial house along • Defensa 1600, San Telmo • 4307-1182 with members of Buenos Aires’ • Open 11am–6pm daily • Adm Orthodox community. It mirrors exactly the churches of the ^ Plaza Dorrego Russian capital. d Map F4 • Avda. At the heart of San Telmo, Brasil 315, San Telmo lovely Plaza Dorrego is one of the city’s Puente oldest, most ( Transbordador picturesque squares, La Boca’s most icon- ringed by old tango ic landmark, this bars and cafés. magnificent trans- Its origins go back porter bridge is to the 18th one of only a century, when dozen or so of its gauchos came in kind left in the by wagon to world. Built in sell wares 1908, its here. Today, it powerful iron is famous for frame its bustling straddles the Sunday Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa polluted waters 74 A Day in San Telmo and La Boca Morning
Start your day with a Around Town – San Telmo and La Boca strong coffee at San Telmo’s Bar Plaza Dorrego (see p77). Stroll north on Dorrego, wander- ing in and out of antiques stores and art galleries as you go, and stopping at Puente Transbordador the Mercado de San Telmo (see p19) to buy fresh fruit. Then explore of Río Riachuelo, the river that the subterranean tunnels separates the Buenos Aires and ruins at El Zanjón metropolis from Gran Buenos before resurfacing to visit Aires, the poverty and crime- Casa Mínima (see p73). ridden belt that rings the city’s Head one block east and turn right. You are now on limits. Designed to transport Balcarce. Soak in this pedestrians, cars, and trams street’s colonial façades as across the river, it was replaced you wander back to Plaza in 1939 by the Puente Nicolás Dorrego and then onto Avellaneda, which now stands Parque Lezama, visiting the Iglesia Nuestra directly behind it. The bridge has Señora de Belén (see appeared in numerous tango- p19) en route. At Parque themed films as an evocative Lezama, enjoy a steak icon. d Map H6 • Pedro de Mendoza, lunch at Lezama (see cnr. Almirante Brown p77), followed by a stroll of this lovely park. ) El Zanjón Afternoon El Zanjón (meaning “creek” Taking the No.29 bus from in Spanish) is a 19th-century man- San Telmo, hop off at the sion and archeological jewel. The end of the line in La Boca. house was built in the 1840s for Glance north and see the Puente Transbordador; a the Miguens family and later tango twirl south is El converted into a conventillo Caminito (see p73). (tenement house), but it is what Explore this open-air lies beneath it that is special. The museum, drinking in the building’s foundations conceal colorful houses and browsing the artists’ the ruins of colonial houses, wares before turning right built by early settlers on the on Garibaldi. Walk three banks of two creeks that once blocks to La Bombonera converged at this spot. Tunnels (see p73). Take a stadium built in the 19th century to cover tour, stop by the Museo de la Pasión Boquense, the creeks for hygiene reasons and then head back the run alongside the ruins. The site way you came. Back at the can be explored on stylized and port, gorge on modern art fascinating tours. d Map F3 at Fundación Proa (see • Defensa 755, San Telmo • 4361-3002 p73) before returning to San Telmo. End your day • Tours (1 hr tour, reservations only): with dinner and tango at 11am–2pm Mon–Fri, 1–6pm Sun Patagonia Sur (see p77). • Adm • www.elzanjon.com.ar Avoid wandering around the foot of the Puente Transbordador – 75 it is a crime hot spot. Left L’Ago Center Flavio Seratti Arte y Antigüedades Right Silvia Petroccia Galleries and Antique Stores ! Gil Antigüedades collections include sculpture, Collections include 1920s painting and photography. d Map ladies’ wear, antique purses, and F4 • Humberto Primo 730 • 4307-1966 • 19th-century baby garments. www.espacioeclectico.com.ar d Map F3 • Humberto 1º, 412 • 4361- 5019 • www.gilantiguedades.com.ar L’Ago & Modern interior design and Guevara Art Gallery decoration specialist L’Ago @ This gallery sells Art Deco embraces the unconventional. and Art Nouveau items, Items are quirky and colorful, especially furniture and deco- from garish pink sofa cushions to ratives. d Map F3 • Defensa 982 bracelets embellished with • 4362-2418 • www.guevaragallery.com Catholic icons. d Map F3 • Defensa 919 & 970 • 4362-3641 • www. Silvia Petroccia lagosantelmo.com £ This wonderful store is crammed with 18th- and 19th- Mitra century antiques from Italy and * This modern art gallery France. d Map F3 • Defensa 1002 displays the very beautiful, with • 4362-0156 • www.spantiques.com.ar strikingly abstract works by local Around Town – San Telmo & La Boca artists. d Map F4 • Defensa 1444 Wussmann • 4307-0659 • www.mitra-arte.com.ar $ A gallery housing two show- rooms – one for established Flavio Seratti Arte y names, the other for upcoming ( Antigüedades artists. d Map F2 • Venezuela 570 This store stocks antiques from • 4811-2444 • www.wussmann.com the 1920s to 60s, including Art Deco pieces imported from % HB Antigüedades Europe. Myriad curiosities HB deals in furniture, paint- include shark-skin jewelry boxes. ings, and ornaments from 19th- d Map F3 • Defensa 914 • 4361-1258 century France. d Map F3 • Defensa 1016 • 4361- ) Appetite 3325 • www.hbantiques. This art gallery
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Espacio $9 '(-8/,2 photography, paint- ^ 4BO+VBO Ecléctico $96$1-8$1 ings, and installation This thriving gallery art. Exhibits are edgy ,'$-'(* $5 $< 9( 1 $ ,' $ at the heart of San (1 %5$6,/ and change monthly. $9 $POTUJUVDJØO d Map F2 • Chacabuco Telmo promotes $9 emerging visual and $%52: 551 • 4331-5405 • www. plastic artists. The $90*$5&$ 1 appetite.com.ar 76 Price Categories For a three-course $ under US$10 meal for one with half $$ US$11–15 a bottle of wine (or $$$ US$16–25 equivalent meal), taxes, $$$$ US$26–35 and extra charges. $$$$$ over US$35 Around Town – San Telmo & La Boca Wines on display at Brasserie Petanque Bars and Restaurants 647 Patagonia Sur ! This stylish place serving ^ Owned by super-chef Francis modern Argentinian cuisine is Mallmann, this restaurant is a perfect for the romancing couple. class apart. It has a wonderful Choose between a candlelit decor and the food is traditional booth and the main floor. d Map Argentinian. d Map G6 • Rocha 801 E3 • Tacuarí 647 • 4331-3026 • $$$$ • 4303-5917 • $$$$$
Bar Plaza Dorrego Brasserie Petanque @ Everything is atmospheric in & At this French-owned San Telmo’s most romantic brasserie, the cuisine is straight watering hole, from the mosaic off a Paris boulevard, the ambi- floor to the wooden wall cabinets ence fabulous, and the menu is and battered bar. d Map F3 • painted onto antique mirrors. d Defensa 1098 • 4361-0141 • $$$ Map F2 • Defensa 596 • 4342-7930 • $$$
Gibraltar Amici Miei £ This British-style pub is the * Enjoy great views over Plaza best place in town for a pint. The Dorrego (see p74), while dining food is great, with hot curries at Amici Miei. The menu features and huge burgers. There is also a tasty Italian dishes. d Map F3 pool table and a patio. d Map F3 • • Defensa 1072 • 4362-5562 • $$$$ Perú 895 • 4362-5310• $$$ Antigua Tasca de Lezama ( Cuchilleros $ Author Ernesto Sábato This parrilla is set in a restored penned On Heroes and Tombs at 1730s house. Think thick adobe this classic family-run parrilla. The walls, original roof beams, and window tables overlook Parque secret tunnels running under the Lezama (see p74). d Map F4 • Brasil floorboards. d Map F3 • Carlos Calvo 359 • 4361-0114 • $$$ 319 • 4300-5798 • $$$$$
Comedor $9,1*+8(5*2 La Cancha
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Left Plaza de Mayo Right Plaza San Martín Microcentro, Puerto Madero & Retiro LAZA DE MAYO HAS BEEN A FIXTURE of porteño civic and cultural life for Pcenturies. Nearby Puerto Madero, on the other hand, was incorporated officially into the city’s barrio network only in 2007. The two areas reflect porteños’ reverence for the historic as well as their enthusiastic embrace of the modern. The Plaza crowns Microcentro, the capital’s commercial and financial center. From here the pedestrian mall Calle Florida careens off in a colorful barrage of bookstores, boutiques, and street performers, before terminating at the stately Plaza San Martín — the steeply sloping anchor of the Retiro neighborhood. Across Alem Avenue is the still- grand English-built train station that shares the neighborhood’s name, while just south are the restored redbrick mercantile buildings and gleaming business parks that comprise Buenos Aires’ latest reinvention, Puerto Madero. El Obelisco
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80 Preceding pages Avenida de Mayo at night Plaza San Martín 9 de Julio. The 1936 structure ! The qualities of Buenos was built to commemorate the Aires’ most carefully maintained 400th anniversary of Buenos plaza (see p36) are boundless. Aires’ founding, and it now
From its highest point at Avenida serves as a point of orientation Around Town – Microcentro, Puerto Madero & Retiro Santa Fe, a towering statue for visitors and porteños, as well depicting triumphant General as the punchline of local jokes San Martín on horseback is set (for 2005’s AIDS Awareness on a scalloped base – a Week, the structure was popular lunch spot for the covered by a giant pink neighborhood’s workers. condom) (see p20). Palms, majestic lloronas, and oaks shade those Centro Cultural resting on the manicured $ Borges grass. From late October However incongruous it till mid-December, may be to find a vital purple jacaranda trees cultural center inside a bloom along the shopping mall, the stairway leading to Centro Cultural Borges the Falklands War is an enveloping memorial. d Map Q5 experience. The three-level space is Calle Florida dedicated to @ Ten blocks of Argentina’s grandest unrelenting con- Equestrian statue of San Martín writer (see p33), sumerism would be exhibiting Borges’ insufferable if not for Calle letters, poems, and effects. It is Florida’s variety of shops and the also a performance space, where quality of people-watching. Tiny avant-garde tango shows draw snack kiosks sit alongside passionate audiences. Its visual exquisite silver jewelers, young arts wing recently held a show tango dancers and magicians of the Catalán artist Joan Miró. gather crowds which, blithely d Map Q5 • Galerías Pacífico • 5555- entertained, impede pedestrian 5359 • Open 10am–9pm Mon–Sat, noon– traffic, while sales clerks ply 9pm Sun • Adm • www.ccborges.org.ar passersby with flyers for custom leather jackets. It is best to go with the flow from Plaza de Mayo toward Plaza San Martín as, by the 10th block, most appreciate the plaza’s tranquility. d Map Q5
El Obelisco £ Monumental sculpture does not get much bolder than El Obelisco – a 220-ft (67-m) spire set on Centro Cultural Borges housed in Galerías Pacífico Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com 81 Lunch – Microcentro Style flowering bushes play host to For people who take a sandwich seabirds, lizards, and songbirds. back to the computer, the Shaded picnic areas, popular on lunchtime customs of warm days, afford unimpeded Microcentro’s workers might river views. Check the website inspire admiration and jealousy. for guided moonlit tours. Workers eat out at a restaurant or d Map H1 • Avda. Tristán Achával a shady patch of Plaza de Mayo. Rodríguez 1550 • 4315-4129 • Open Apr– A coffee follows at Martínez or Oct: 8am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 8am– Havanna, and in good weather, a short nap under a palm. Two 7pm Tue–Sun • www.buenosaires.gov.ar hours later, it is back to work. Basilica Nuestra Señora & de la Merced Puente de la Mujer This 1779 basilica set amid % When opened in December Microcentro’s bustle is the third 2001, Spanish architect Sergio Our Lady of Mercy on this site, Calatrava’s Puente de la Mujer, the first dating back to 1604. so called for the streets in Baroque and gilded, its altars are Puerto Madero bearing names of some of the city’s finest. Also famous Argentinian women, was notable is its façade’s politicized intended to herald the city’s relief, depicting General Belgrano entry into the 21st century. How- (1770–1820) offering victory ever, the government’s collapse trophies to the Señora, earned in stole the bridge’s headlines. Its battle against the Spanish. d Map striking form cannot be denied F1 • Calle Reconquista 207 • Open though, evoking a male dancer 8am–7pm daily pressing into his female partner in clear, elegant homage to the * Museo Mitre tango. d Map G2 • Dique 3 Reopened in 2008 after restoration, the former residence Reserva Ecológica of mid-19th-century president ^ Costanera Sur Bartólome Mitre presents a A network of gravel paths wind detailed view of how he lived through this stupendous eco- the semi-retired life amidst logical reserve. High marsh Microcentro’s madness. His grasses, ombú trees, and formidable library and reading Around Town – Microcentro, Puerto Madero & Retiro
The elegant Puente de la Mujer 82 Around Town – Microcentro, Puerto Madero & Retiro 83
Plaza Plaza
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El (see p8). , taking in (see p8) (see p8) (see p85). (see p81). (see p20) (see p20) Catedral Catedral FILO (see pp38–9), La Calle Florida for a block of rampant of rampant a block for El Cabildo p81) consumerism before Perón onto J.D. turning it all the way and following Madero. to Puerto cafés, and bask in the bask in the and p39) cafés, early 20th- passageway’s Exit century grandeur. onto inside one of (see p53) inside one of Güemes’ Galería Metropolitana San Calle Continue down a late-morning Martín for and alfajor coffee Grab a water bottle at a at a bottle Grab a water Madero kiosk, hail Puerto a radio taxi the bound for Ecológica Reserva northern Sur’s Costanera eyes entrance, and keep sharp inside the park for a for Rest coastal birdlife. while at a shaded picnic spot and take in the river skyline view. and the city’s trace your Afterward, Avenida to steps back it up Córdoba and follow to Calle San Martín for well-deserved, creative pizzas at there, head towards From to indulge in retail Retiro amid the artisan therapy shops resting under the before trees at the verdant San Martín the From the intersection of of the intersection From and de Mayo Avenida 9 de Julio, Avenida A or C) (serviced Líneas by of get a glimpse Obelisco monument from Don Walk vantage. Quixote’s toward along de Mayo Plaza de Mayo to the respects and paying Grand Liberator San Martín inside Afternoon Morning A Day Around A Day Puerto Microcentro, Retiro Madero, and Map Q4 d
(see pp8-9). . The site is site is The (see p33). Map F1 • Calle San Martín d Plaza Embajada de Israel trees planted Twenty-nine The Plaza’s symmetry belies Plaza’s The Plaza de Mayo
for each of the murdered bear the murdered bear of each for terrorist witness to the 1992 Argentinian on Israel’s attack embassy where the victims’ a plaza, now into a wall. names are etched is outline former embassy’s The still imprinted in the adjacent building, a sense of the providing scale. physical tragedy’s the many upheavals that shaped that shaped upheavals the many make To dimensions. its current three de Mayo, Avenida room for its arcade shorn off were arches A. Julio avenue In 1931, in 1889. completed, requiring was Rocha the demolition of three more us with the view leaving arches, today have we • Cnr. Calles Suipacha and Arroyo Arroyo and Calles Suipacha • Cnr. free Adm • Open daily •
) ( room contains thick volumes as as volumes room contains thick Argentinian from as letters well furnishings, generals. Period from original porcelain bath to the courtyard’s fixtures Spanish tiles, are in excellent repair. Basilica Nuestra Señora de la Merced de Señora Basilica Nuestra 336 • 4394-8240 • Open noon–6pm 336 • 4394-8240 • Open noon–6pm Adm • closed Jan–Feb Mon–Fri; Left Plata Nativa Right Millai Sumaj Stores
Plata Nativa wool at Millai Sumaj. Raw ! South American folk art and materials are purchased from jewelry are showcased in this indigenous people within evocative space. d Map Q5 Argentina. d Map Q5 • Galerías • Galería del Sol, Calle Florida 860 Larreta, Calle Florida 971 • 4312-1398 Artistas Jóvenes Blaqué & Argentinos @ This swish store stocks glam This is possibly the best place to leather jackets, handbags, and purchase the work of some of shoes worthy of a Fendi store. Argentina’s most progressive d Map Q5 • Galerías Pacífico, Calle young painters. d Map Q5 • Galerías Florida 725 • 5555-5215 Larreta, Calle Florida 971
Antigüedades Antigüa Autoria £ Vintage Argentinian toys, * Housewares, limited-run books, and housewares are silkscreened T-shirts, art books, available here. d Map Q6 • Calle and mixed-media pieces, all by Suipacha 228 • 5029-0133 local artists, give Autoria a touch of MALBA (see pp22–3). Polo Club d Map Q5 • Calle Suipacha 1025 $ Well-crafted cotton casual wear and quality leather accesso- Se Dice de Mí ries lend a country-club aesthetic ( 1960s-cinema inspired tees, to this small space. d Map R6 handbags fashioned from recy- • Calle Juana Manuela Gorriti 740, cled materials, and lingerie fill Dique 4 • 5238-0137 this spacious shop. d Map Q5 • Calle Maipú 944 • 4311-1005 % Adolfo Martínez Armas Antiguas ) Tango Brujo Around Town – Microcentro, Puerto Madero & Retiro This longtime Galerías Larreta Numerous couples have tenant sells national and inter- been set twirling in the Nouveau national military Tango style by Tango d $9'(/ memorabilia. Map /, Brujo. Its handsome %(5 7$ Q5 • Calle Florida 971 '25 &TUBDJØO ground-level shop • 4311-7305 EFM3FUJSP stocks delicate tango (FO4 .BSUÓO fashions, an excellent Millai Sumaj music selection, and ^ $9&5'2%$
Smart, contem- $9 '(-8/,2 top-quality footwear, -BWBMMF 'MPSJEB porary women’s $9&2 55,(17(6 with expert fittings. EF -/"MFN +VMJP 1VFSUP fashions are hand- .BEFSP d Map Q5 • Calle $BUFESBM crafted from $9'(0$<2 Esmeralda 754 "WEF.BZP Patagonian and llama 1MB[B.BZP • 4325-8264 84 Price Categories For a three-course $ under US$10 meal for one with half $$ US$11–15 a bottle of wine (or $$$ US$16–25 equivalent meal), taxes, $$$$ US$26–35 and extra charges. $$$$$ over US$35 Around Town – Microcentro, Puerto Madero & Retiro Florida Garden Bars and Restaurants La Cigale Tomo I ! Dark electronica and bossa ^ Delicate porteño cuisine is nova sounds waft through this served in a dignified room here. moody bar, popular with artists d Map P6 • Calle Carlos Pellegrini 521, and poets. d Map Q5 • Avda. 25 de Microcentro • 4326-6695 • $$$$ Mayo 722 • 4312-8275 • $ El Patio Cabaña Las Lilas & This bustling and affordable @ The shock of splurging at place serves humbly prepared arguably the city’s best steak- porteño fare. d Map Q6 • Ex- house can be tempered at Convento Grande de San Ramón Nonato, lunchtime when beef prices are Calle Reconquista 269 • 4343-0290 • $ more budget-friendly. d Map R6 • Alicia Moreau de Justo 516, Puerto * Dadá Madero • 4313-1336 • $$ Amid bright furnishings and antique fixtures, business types Sabot and nattily dressed scenesters £ Every little thing is done share lunches or an extend right at Sabot – perfectly seared happy hour. d Map Q5 • Calle San sweetbreads, grilled fish, wines, Martín 941 • 4314-4787 • $$ and unobtrusive service. d Map Q5 • 25 de Mayo 756 • 4313-6587 • $$ Florida Garden ( The modern look obscures FILO Florida Garden’s past life as an $ The fanciful decor reflects intellectuals’ haven. Borges (see the creativity of this pizzeria with p59) and his cadre held debates signature pies outnumbered only over pizzas here. d Map Q5 • Calle by the salad combos. FILO also Florida 899 • 4312-7902 • $ rotates painting exhibitions through its space. d Map Q5 • Calle ) Hip Bar San Martín 975 • 4311-1871 • $$ While Microcentro office workers choose Hip Bar for an Tribeca afternoon tortilla $9 % ' (/ Modern / española, the vaguely ,% (5 7$ Argentinian cuisine '2 Irish, unabashedly 5 &TUBDJØO including exquisite EFM3FUJSP rock ‘n’ roll pub (FO4BO meat, fish, and pasta .BSUÓO comes into its own dishes, is served at after work, with $9&5 '2%$
$9 '(-8/,2 Tribeca. Customers -BWBMMF British rock blaring -/"MFN select wine from the $9&2 55,(17(6 and beer specials EF 'MPSJEB +VMJP d bijou wine boutique. 1VFSUP after 6pm. Map F2 $BUFESBM .BEFSP d Map Q5 • Tucumán 271, $9'(0$<2 • Calle Hipolito Yrigoyen "WEF.BZP 1MB[B.BZP Microcentro • 4312-8337 640 • 4342-0234 • $ Recommend your favorite bar on traveldk.com 85 Left Plaza Serrano Right A chic boutique on a street in Palermo Palermo
ALERMO IS THE CURRENT INTERNATIONAL buzzword for all things edgy Pand fashionable about Argentina — deservedly so, given the profusion of couture boutiques, minimalist hotels, and swish restaurants that have sprung up in the barrio, post-economic crisis. The tattoos and asymmetrical haircuts on display in the renovated casas chorizos of Palermo Viejo, though, would cause a scandal amid the Neo-Classical embassies and handsome mansions of Palermo Chico. Between them, however, is plenty of common ground: acres of Buenos Aires’ finest parkland, a swath of green extending from Recoleta through the barrio of Belgrano. Around Town – Palermo
Gallery displaying contemporary art at MALBA
$9 $ 9 / ( 1 8 &$//($5&( $ ,' ,6 9 (1, $ 0 / Sights $5 ' $935 ( 2 $ 3 $ 2 2 / &$ 7 $9( (6 1 ' 2 1 03 MALBA ,( 1BSRVF 1,'$ EF'FCSFSP 0 /8* 26 ' 5 (/ 1BSRVF +/FXCFSZ 2 6$ ) 1 EF ( 2 Jardín Japonés 6 $BSSBO[B 'FCSFSP $/& 6$1 4BMEJBT 7$) 3 Museo Evita /,% 2 57$ ( '$ ( 57$'2 &$//(62/(51BMFSNP (1 , 4 Museo de Arte $9 5 $9'255(*2 Popular José
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86 Around Town – Palermo 87
, author of (see p33), author of Map L3 • Calle Lafinur 2988 d
Museo de Arte Popular Popular Arte Museo de Hernández José For a woman whose public- a woman For Museo Evita Map M2 • Avda. del Libertador 2373 Avda. Map M2 • • 4807-9433 • Open 2–7:30pm Tue–Sun Tue–Sun • Open 2–7:30pm • 4807-9433 English-language tours • Free Adm • • www.museoevita.org available d $ the No other museum evokes country grand, diverse the capital this surrounding like one, named in honor of José Homer, own Argentina’s Hernández epic poem folkloric the 1872 of folk levels Two . Martín Fierro weaponry, textiles, and crafts, Tierra jewelry, produced from icy to the sub-Amazonian del Fuego jungles of Misiones, are assem- garden bled around a flowering hotel. inside this petite former Museo Evita £ • 4803-2384 • Open 1–7pm Wed–Fri, Wed–Fri, • 4803-2384 • Open 1–7pm • Guided tour: Adm Sat, Sun • 10am–8pm • www.museohernandez.org.ar 4801-9019 speaking bombast and charisma speaking bombast and charisma her borderline-fascist rivaled is remem- Perón Eva husband’s, her grace, beauty, and bered for Evita, delicate health. Museo an a elegant building, formerly was Argentinian women lodge for Aires to to Buenos who moved Evita dedicated by in find work, Lady’s ex-First The 1948. and identity dresses, letters, cards share space with propa- ganda posters and subtitled at political video clips captured rallies. Eduardo Eduardo Map M2 • Cnr Avda. Figueroa Avda. Map M2 • Cnr d
Jardín Japonés Jardín ponds and images of koi The MALBA Latin Until recently,
Jardín Japonés Jardín started a worldwide re- started a worldwide bridges in the tourist brochures bridges in the tourist brochures a Japonés, belong to the Jardín garden with bonsai Japanese shrines, and trees, festive from garden, a gift The pagodas. community, Japanese the city’s that also contains a sushi café serves impeccably fresh sashmi all day. examination of Xul Solar, Hélio Hélio of Xul Solar, examination oth- and Matta, Oitica, Roberto prices ers, making their auction record highs. His prizes reach art decorate the world-class now (see pp22–3). museum MALBA American art was not considered considered not was American art com- the by highly collectible In the 1980s mercial art industry. and 90s, however, aggressive Constantini’s rioplatense art acquisition of Alcorta & Casares • 4804-4922 • Open daily; restaurant: 10am–6pm, 10am–6pm 7:30pm–midnight Wed–Mon • Adm • www.jardinjapones.org.ar
@ ! Palermo Not-So-Viejo de Polo, also known as La Few would have predicted that a Catedral, holds 30,000 neighborhood known for auto spectators and is the spiritual mechanics and homes for the heart of the sport in Argentina. aged would lead Buenos Aires’ Tickets for December’s Open post-crisis boom. Palermo Viejo’s tournament can be difficult to Italianate casas chorizos were come by, but the spring season’s renovated to house the boutiques qualifying matches serve as and restaurants that dominate its great entree to the experience, streets today. It is also called Palermo Soho as a nod to its new and come at cheaper prices. tenants’ urban-chic sensibilities. d Map K1 • Avda. del Libertador 4300 • 4777-6444 • Open Sep–Dec • www.aapolo.com; www.ticketek.com.ar La Rural % The Sociedad Argentina Jardín Zoológico Predio la Rural, or La Rural, has & Many of the animals’ dwell- occupied a hallowed ings in this zoo position during its emulate their native 120-plus years at the settings – Indian corner of Sarmiento elephants roam
Around Town – Palermo and Santa Fe. around a miniature Equestrian shows, temple, while red livestock auctions, the pandas mill about a annual agricultural fair Chinese pavilion. (see p42), and the Elephants at Jardín Most famous here are spectacular Opera Zoológico the white Bengal Pampa (see p35) take tigers. d Map L2 place here. d Map L2 • Avda. • Cnr Avda. Las Heras & Sarmiento Sarmiento 2704 • 4777-5557 • 4011-9900 • Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sun • www.la-rural.com.ar • Adm • www.zoobuenosaires.com.ar
Campo Argentino de Polo Museo Xul Solar ^ Polo, the aristocratic bastion * The boundless imagination of sportsmanship and breeding, of Argentina’s greatest abstract has been popular in Argentina for Expressionist is just barely con- over a century now. Palermo’s tained within this museum that Neo-Classical Campo Argentino once served as the artist’s home.
Campo Argentino de Polo 88 Around Town – Palermo 89
(see (see picada Jangada (see p87). (see p92) (see p87) (see p87) (or if omakase (or if MALBA are or are not over- Acabar Continuing up to Plaza Continuing up to Plaza Italia, hop on a 93 bus and get out around Calle Honduras, the main drag through Palermo international Hollywood’s share a To bistros. on Calle Lafinur. on Calle Lafinur. Start your afternoon Start afternoon your through the laby- wending east of rinthine streets Alcorta, Figueroa Avenida fine Aires’ past Buenos embassies, mansions and and up to p87). Then, debate whether the pan-Latin American masterworks at MALBA the striking by shadowed sure Make building itself. not to skip the fabulous Afterward, shop. gift Avenida continue up Alcorta to the Figueroa Japonés Jardín Should the monstrous koi fish in its central pond appetite, sushi arouse your get some and not, delicious cakes tea) at the garden’s restaurant. glimpse Next, Argentina’s of the life first lady, Evita, at Museo Evita for a round of beers over a round of beers over for or a boardgame. Jenga the gaudy, thrift- Given the depth of store decor, menu cocktail Acabar’s a pleasant for makes a look have surprise. Later, around the intersection of to Honduras and Bonpland get dinner ideas; (see p93) is just one of in the solid choices many immediate vicinity. and some happy-hour and some happy-hour down beers, turn Honduras and right before and head Calle Bonpland, inside Evening Afternoon An Afternoon of of An Afternoon Flair Palermo (see p22). Map M1 • Cnr d
Map K3 d Planetario Galileo Galilei Planetario With a huge sphere poised Plaza Serrano as also known Plaza Serrano,
Map M4 • Calle Laprida 1212 • 4824- Map M4 • Calle Laprida 1212
d are the three prehistoric meteor- ites recovered from the north- ites recovered provinces. west on three legs and looking like a a on three legs and looking like alien science-fiction movie’s transport, this planetarium is one top astronomi- of the continent’s Its shows facilities. cal research contain imagery from satellite greatest attraction The missions. Plaza Cortázar, has evolved into into has evolved Plaza Cortázar, Viejo/ the heart of the Palermo From nexus. Soho/Hollywood this rather ordinary plaza, most fashionable Viejo’s Palermo in every streets shoot off direction.
• Cnr Calles Borges & Honduras • Cnr Calles Borges ) 3302 • Open noon–8pm Tue–Fri, noon– Tue–Fri, 3302 • Open noon–8pm Sat Thu, Tue, tours • Free Adm 7pm Sat • at 4:30pm • www.xulsolar.org.ar (
The permanent exhibition docu- permanent exhibition The water figurative ments Solar’s a debt to European colors, owing of influences and development The language. his metaphysical gallery Solar’s multi-level allows all luminous color palette, pastels, to stand out Drago (Dragon), Museo Xul Solar (Dragon), Drago Avda. Sarmiento and Avda. Figueroa Avda. Sarmiento and Avda. (one per • Shows Alcorta • 4771-9393 2–6pm Sat, Sun Tue–Fri, hour): 1–4:30pm • www.planetario.gov.ar Adm • & holidays Left María Cher Center La Casa de las Botas Right Félix Neighborhood Stores
Gropius Sabater Hnos. Fábrica ! A stylish, modernist furniture ^ de Jabones enthusiast’s dream shop, Hand soaps of every imaginable Gropius stocks high quality, texture and color fill the bins and reasonably priced restorations shelves of this festive shop, and replicas of Eames and Le where the goods are made on Corbusier classics. d Map J2 • Calle the premises. d Map K3 • Calle Honduras 6027 • 4774-2094 Gurruchaga 1821 • 4833-3004
Salön Muaré Capital Diseño y Objetos @ This boutique rents out its & Capital carries leather table
Around Town – Palermo impeccably restored vintage mats and modernist chairs along fashions and one-of-a-kind with children’s furniture and toys. accessories. d Map J3 • Calle Uriarte d Map K4 • Calle Honduras 4958 1345, 1F • 4776-5839 • 4834-6555
La Casa de las Botas Félix £ The finest hides in the * With button-downs, perfectly richest tones are available here. cut jeans, and primary-color tees The shop’s shorter styles, called for men, Felix also has a Jodhpur boots, strike profiles for Recoleta branch (Libertad 1627). fashion runways. d Map K2 • Calle d Map K3 • Calle Gurruchaga 1670 • Paraguay 5062 • 4776-0762 4832-2994
La Pasionaria A.Y. Not Dead $ A riotous jumble of modern- ( For clubwear with a hand- ist and Deco furnishings, lamps, made feel and edgier sensibility and curios are housed in this than that at Bond Street (see restored yet raw warehouse at p39), visit this shop. d Map L4 the western fringe of Palermo • Calle Soler 4193 • 4866-4855 Viejo. d Map J3 • Calle $9 /8 $9' ,6 Godoy Cruz 1541 0 (/ Eterna $ 5 $ ) $9 &$0326EF'FCSFSP • 4773-0563 ( 1BSRVFEF 1 /, Cadencia ,'$ % 'FCSFSP (5 7$' $BSSBO[B 2 2 This is that rare 5 6$17$ , (17 María Cher )( 50 bookstore that makes &62/(5 1BMFSNP % 6 $ The inventory of $9'255(*2 $9 one feel worldly. ' 2 67 $1 -8 3/ 1MB[B 4DBMBCSJOJ María Cher’s 1 % Eterna Cadencia 2 - *UBMJB 0SUJ[ % $9 $9 & exquisite casual (1,' stocks lovely art $ &85,$57( ,= #VMOFT 57 & 2 $/ cottons and chic , /( books and a selection 1 &+$5 $%5, / &$ & & $ / &$ satins is kept in 5 6 / of English titles, and &7+$0(6 ( 6 ' $9 6 2%$ 2/ (5 constant rotation. 2 has a cozy atrium / / &*$6&1 $
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Salvador 4724 • 4833-4736 &-8/,1$/9$5(= &$/ Honduras 5574 • 4774-4100 90 Around Town – Palermo Left República de Acá Right Pabellón IV Multispaces Bar El Taller República de Acá ! “The Workshop” is a ^ Buenos Aires’ golden age of woodworker’s bar with a wink. comedy is paid homage at this Quirky handmade wooden toys Plaza Serrano nightlife mainstay. and objets d’art are displayed It is plastered with caricatures and available for sale in this and film stills. d Map J4 • Calle casual Plaza Serrano watering Serrano 1549 • 4581-0278 hole. d Map K3 • Calle Serrano 1595 • 4831-5501 Arte de Mafia & After 10pm, jazz groups Pabellón IV complement the Italian dishes @ In addition to its showcases here with live renditions of of local industrial designers’ canzonette italiane and works and performance art, tarantelle. d Map K3 • Calle El Pabellón IV, a veteran multi- Salvador 4975 • 4831-9213 purpose arts spaces, also features a moody bar/café. d Map * Brujas J3 • Calle Uriarte 1332 • 4772-8745 Apart from a pizza menu to rival that of FILO (see p85), £ El Carnal Brujas boasts diverse canvases Famous for its terrace pre- by neighborhood artists. d Map K3 parties, the trailer-trash decor of • Calle Costa Rica 4827 • 4832-7919 bar/lounge El Carnal draws even reserved drinkers out of their ( Spell Café shells. d Map J3 • Calle Niceto Vega The spacious Spell Café 5511 • 4772-7582 comprises three levels of pizza/ pasta-geared dining and beer $ Oxiro drinking, an art gallery, and a Set in a restored Palermo performance space. d Map K4 house, multimedia space Oxiro • Calle Malabia 1738 • 4832-3389 adds artistic grit with photography installa- $BSSBO[B Pampa Picante $9 ) 6$ d 17 tions. Map J4 • Calle $ The handsome &62/(5 )( Gurruchaga 1358 Pampa Picante 1BMFSNP 2 • 4771-3568 67 betters its beef- 8 & $ 1' - // 3/$ % ( - centric competitors 21 & 1MB[B % $9 +$ *UBMJB % Escarlata & &+21'85$6 5& $6 with asado (grill) A nexus of &85,$57( &62/(5 lessons, in groups of $ 9(1 neighborhood , = two to six. Graduates , '$ 57 2 artistry, openings of the lesson eat 5, 1 , here are boisterous. $% what they cook. d & / &6(55$12 &$ 6 d 5 Map J4 • Calle Serrano ' 2 % Map K4 • Calle Nicaragua &*8558&+$*$ 9 $ 1408 • 4833-9373 &0$/$%,$$ &*$6&1 4610 • 4833-7251 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com 91 Left Mundo Bizarro Right Acabar Bars
Bar 6 Crónico Bar ! Despite its cool minimalism, ^ The façade here opens onto Bar 6 manages to be a relaxed the street, promising a raucous spot for carefully prepared drinks good time. d Map K3 • Calle Jorge L. and snacks. d Map K4 • Calle Borges 1646 • 4833-0708 Armenia 1676 • 4833-6807 Tiempo de Gitanos Acabar & Bar y Fonda @ The area’s pioneer, Acabar’s Reserve in advance for the staying power is additionally dinner shows at this riotously rooted in liberal measures and colored flamenco bar and
Around Town – Palermo guilt-inducing bar grub. d Map J3 restaurant. d Map J3 • Calle El • Calle Honduras 5733 • 4772-0845 Salvador 5575 • 4776-6143
Mundo Bizarro Kim y Novak £ Low-art hallmarks make * A dim, debauched bar-lounge Mundo Bizarro a slice of where staff wait on a mixed Southern California kitsch. The crowd lounging on lush vintage tattooed barmen know their way furniture. d Map K2 • Calle Güemes around whiskey cocktails too. d 4900 • 4773-7521 Map J4 • Calle Serrano 1222 • 4773-1967 Genoma Soul Café ( For all Palermo Hollywood’s $ The DJ spins Motown, jazz, cool-cultivating bars and lounges, and hip-hop at one of the first Genoma just wants to have fun. resto-bars in the Las Cañitas Order Tex-Mex-style appetizers neighborhood. The sushi here is and relax in gauche leopard-print good too. d Map K1 • Calle Baez 246 lounge chairs, or down daiquiris • 4778-3115 and piñacoladas outside. d Avda. Dorrego 1735 • 4776-6300 Green Bamboo $9 &$//($5&( % /8 $9 ,6 ' Fresh juices, 0$ ( / 878 5 $ ) & 1BSRVFEF spices, and more go $9 $0 Nobody arrives at ( / 'FCSFSP 1,' 32 , %( $ 57 6 EF $ into Green Bamboo’s ' 878 by accident, as it 'FCSFSP 2 $BSSBO[B 6$ 5 Polynesian-style 17$)( 2 is detached from the 1BMFSNP 0 , (17 cocktails, mixed $5 Palermo Viejo bustle $96 2 67 1MB[B 4DBMBCSJOJ behind a gold- &%213/$1'8 and located in - *UBMJB 0SUJ[ % $9- metallic lacquered &85,$57( adjacent Villa Crespo. &-$&$%5(5$ ,= 57 #VMOFT 2 & , bar. They also serve &+$5& $ The lounge fits about %5,1 /$ & $ $ // 6& ( 6 tasty Vietnamese $ 9 50 cocktail sippers 9( $ 62/ 1 ( ,' 5 dishes. d Map XX $ around its weathered /2 &*$6&1 & &$//($50(1,$ $/ 5 * ' 2 %$ d • Calle Costa Rica 5802 tables. Map J4 • Calle (
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, Malbecs , Malbecs parrilla menu menu Restaurants Zavdarie Doc Zavdarie Peruvian-inspired El Trapiche In this classic white- duck Celebrities nibble duck Casa Cruz Reserve, or arrive early for early for Reserve, or arrive La Cabrera The relatively light cuisine of light cuisine of relatively The Ølsen
Map J3 • Calle Uriarte Map J4 • Cabrera 5099 • 4831-7002 Map J4 • Cabrera 5099 • 4831-7002
1423 • 4831-2719 • $$ • 4831-2719 1423 • $$$$ lunch spe- lunch ejecutivo cials are a good deal. specials are served in stark-white Zavdarie’s The dining area. weekday tablecloth tenderloin The steak. accompany best, and the is among Palermo’s delicious ice-cream desserts are best shared. magret and sip special-reserve wines at Casa Cruz. Palermo’s best meat, served in a best meat, served in a Palermo’s bistro cozy, classic street-corner awning. or under the sidewalk Scandinavia has made a huge has made a huge Scandinavia splash with meat-reared to porteños, due almost entirely gravlax the open-faced Try Ølsen. sandwiches. 5870 • 4776-7677 • $$$ 5870 • 4776-7677
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HILE BUENOS AIRES is the obvious focal point of the River Plate region, Wits surrounding communities — sprouting up from jungle-like river deltas or sprawling, rugged mountain terrain — kick with local rhythms of their own. Fruit and lumber have drifted downriver from the labyrinthine waterways of Tigre, just 16 miles (25 km) north of Retiro, for over a century. The romantic spirit of the boundless Pampa and the gauchos who tamed it is celebrated in the southwestern Mataderos and the
Beyond Buenos Aires historical, handsome village of San Antonio de Areco. With flights and ferries leaving for the walkable capital of Montevideo, the colonial jewel Colonia del Sacramento, and the fashionable beach destination Punta del Este, Uruguay figures in any discussion of favorite porteño get- aways. These destinations usually cater well to impulsive travelers. Colonia del Sacramento
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94 Some advance planning is recommended when visiting this region during holidays. Beyond Buenos Aires 95 Map B6 d Map A5 d Tandil With the horizon-flat Pampa Mar del Plata of 1:20 scale model A virtual $ # commencing just beyond Buenos Buenos commencing just beyond hundreds for Aires and extending ft 1,640 rugged Tandil’s of miles, for irresistible (500 m) hills prove porteños without time or pesos El Centinela, a Patagonia. for balancing high rock (7-m) 23-ft a by atop a hill, can be reached plaza- In the town, ski chairlift. side bars and delicatessens locally produced jams, stocking and dry sausages cheeses, the for reward ample provide hikers. day returning Buenos Aires, Mar del Plata is Aires, Mar del Plata is Buenos Capital. located 5 hours from la and Its cosmopolitan attractions coastal high-rises are about not relaxation. Playa excitement, Bristol, the principal beach, under teems with families hawking umbrellas and vendors everything from popcorn to brought in massages. Seafood, fleets of yellow- emblematic by hulled fishing boats, features prominently on menus.
or to posadas or to Map B4 d
(a thin steak (a thin steak chivito , Colonia is an (see p25), Colonia is an overlooking the deep the deep paseos overlooking Fifty minutes from Puerto minutes from Puerto Fifty Colonia del Sacramento Montevideo 3.7 Nearly half of Uruguay’s
rent scooters to explore rent scooters to explore What every- beaches. surrounding does is soak up one invariably the colonial atmosphere at a side- (see pp24–5). café walk Madero on Buquebus’ fastest fastest Madero on Buquebus’ vessels on a strategic town 18th-century soil. Some outcrop of Uruguayan to spend the night in one choose of its charming million citizens live in the capital live million citizens Legendary for of Montevideo. their hospitality and civic pride, at all hours in congregate they Plaza Independencia (see p98) into the local grill and tuck specialty, mirrors Vieja Ciudad sandwich). in its Telmo San Aires’ Buenos and as a nightlife reinvention its dining neighborhood. Unlike Plate neighbor, River massive a coastal like feels Montevideo city with its municipal beaches and blue waters.
@ ! Plaza Independencia, Montevideo Montevideo Plaza Independencia, Upriver on the Railroad cobblestone streets around Plaza The Tren de la Costa (US$5 round Ruíz de Arellano. Just outside of trip) runs between Bartólome town, family-owned estancias Mitre and Tigre. Take a 30-minute raise cattle and horses. San ride from Retiro on the Mitre line Antonio fills up for its annual Día to Bartólome Mitre. A pedestrian de la Tradición in November. d causeway connects to the train’s Map A4 • www.sanantoniodeareco.com base, Estación Maipú. Between Maipú and Tigre is San Isidro, a Punta del Este riverside parkland, and quaint & stationhouses. The Tren de la Come summer, Buenos Costa ticket lasts a full day. Aires’ media turns breathless in its coverage of illustrious holiday- makers sunning, gambling, and Tigre clubbing in Punta del Este, % The region’s shortest and Uruguay, the region’s answer to most modern train, the Tren de la Miami Beach. The celebrity Costa (see also p60) terminates scene, however, cannot compare at Tigre, the former agricultural to Punta’s natural beauty – white
Beyond Buenos Aires hub and porteño playground at sand dunes overlooked by the confluence of the Luján and rugged bluffs. Budget airline Sol Tigre rivers. Palatial rowing clubs makes the hour-long flight and boathouses line Paseo multiple times daily from Victorica, where teak-hulled Aeroparque Jorge Newbury boats offer excursions under the during high season, and delta’s willows and coniferous accommodations cover every species. The port itself counts an price bracket. d Map C4 amusement park, casino, and an artisans’ market. d Map B4 Pinamar * Perched on a forested point, San Antonio de Areco Pinamar is named for the ^ Just 68 miles (110 km) south- incongruous pine groves planted west of Buenos Aires, this by the resort town’s founding unspoilt cowboy town boasts a family. For porteños, Pinamar is historic center. Buildings from synonymous with golf, which has the 18th and 19th centuries and in turn brought more families wrought-iron lamps line the into this previously posh beach
A boat trip down the scenic Tigre River 96 Beyond Buenos Aires 97
Parque Parque tannat, (see (see
(see p95) (see p95) El Callejón, Playa stands chivito and rent Rodo and rent Parque Baar Fun Fun Baar Fun 25 de Mayo 745) which, which, 745) 25 de Mayo despite its commercial a plush name, deploys and dancefloor lounge, bar, of a three levels over 19th-century converted Neo-Gothic mansion. The streets of Ciudad streets of Ciudad The especially the Calle Vieja, of a nexus Sarandí, form dining and drinking. Share of bottle an inexpensive the local varietal, at p99), and ask your his favorite bartender for A restaurant in the zone. is solid choice resto-pub with a tiny antipasti, fish, excellent acoustic guitar plus live Mitre (Calle Bartólome $$). Nightclubs 1386, begin to pump around midnight, with the crowd descending on KEY (Calle Pack a beach bag and head bag and head beach a Pack for a typical breakfast of typical of a for breakfast at one tostadas and coffee cafés of the excellent there. City buses leave de Julio, 18 Avenida from at the main thoroughfare the plaza, to , 1 mile (2 km) Ramírez east. Set right in front of Montevideo’s leafy, landscaped is favored Rodo, the beach its cleanliness, for Vieja, proximity to Ciudad and its irresistable mix of grandeur (the Neo-Colonial Mercosur regional its form offices trade-block and honky tonk. backdrop) amusement park A few rides and kids happy keep nearby some For too. and fed shade, cross the Rambla to or paddle boat a bike from one of the numerous outfitters. Evening Morning A Day in Montevideo A Day arte-
Map A4 (a sweet (a sweet folclóre d Map B5 d panettone panettone Map A4 • Calle Lisandro de la Map d
Isla Martín García Isla Martín vegetation on this thick The Mataderos visitors with no time to For
small delta island gives the small delta the island gives impression of an impenetrable citadel. Interestingly, political lodged here until prisoners were the abandoned Today, the 1960s. prison and the landscape attract and savvy porteño daytrippers At Christmas time, foreigners. sole bakery works the island’s producing fruit-cake overtime similar to bread from Milan). or San Antonio Antonio visit an estancia or San gaucho Areco, the weekend de in Mataderosfair is an excellent Its southwest alternative. once Buenos neighborhood was hub, but meat-packing Aires’ plants remain. verytoday few has fair folk Instead, a weekend up, with live sprung Torre & Avda. Directorio • Fair: Apr–mid- • Fair: Directorio Avda. & Torre
) ( Typical gaucho and his horse gaucho Typical to the destination. In contrast sands to its north pebble-strewn shores are and south, Pinamar’s and golden. soft Dec: 11am–9pm Sun; late Jan–Mar: 1– Sun; late Jan–Mar: Dec: 11am–9pm 9pm Sat • www.feriademataderos.com.ar music and dancing, displays of of music and dancing, displays horse mastery, and gaucho sanía. Left La Barra, Punta del Este, Uruguay Right Plaza Independencia, Montevideo Best of the Rest
Barrio Histórico, Colonia Centro Histórico, San ! While one could cover ^ Antonio de Areco historic Colonia in an afternoon, Impeccably preserved 19th- most visitors choose to linger century Italianate municipal long among its seven museums, buildings, silversmiths, and perpetually blooming Plaza pulperías testify to this once- Mayor (see p24), and wonderful crucial agricultural center’s past sidewalk cafés. d Map B4 fortunes. d Map A4
Beyond Buenos Aires Plaza Independencia, La Barra, Punta del Este @ Montevideo & At this point of land at La Tethering Montevideo to its long Barra, the most tranquil history, Plaza Independencia is accommodations and most overseen by Palacio Salvo, a exclusive nightlife miraculously mirror image of Palacio Barolo coexist. d Map C4 (see p14). d Map B4 Avenidas Bunge and del The Tigre Club, Tigre * Mar, Pinamar £ This former casino, arguably Pinamar’s main thoroughfare, the finest Beaux Arts structure in a tree-lined stretch of national- the country, today houses an brand shopping, golf outfitters, excellent Argentinian art and alfresco restaurants, collection. d Map A4 • Paseo Victorica terminates at the scenic 972, Tigre • 4512-4528 • Open 9am–7pm shorefront of Avenida del Mar. Wed–Fri, noon–7pm Sat and Sun d Map B5
Casino Central, Mar Presidential Residences, $ del Plata ( Isla Martín García Constructed in the 1930s, the Ex-presidents who fell foul of the Casino Central might no longer Argentinian government were evoke Monaco-on-the-Pampa, imprisoned at the residences. but it still is a notch above the Today they are remembered with typical beach-resort fare. d Map commemorative plaques. B6 • Bulevar Maritimo Peralta 2148 • d Map A4 223-4957011 El Centinela, Tandíl La Feria Mataderos ) The Mesozoic symbol of % Dancers of all ages twirl to this mountain city is best Argentina’s other rhythm, appreciated from its neighboring folcloríca, while onlookers quaff hillside’s peak, accessed by ski chorizo sandwiches at this chairlift, where one can take in Pampa-celebrating weekend fair the view with a coffee and (see p97). alfajores (see p53). d Map A5 98 Price Categories For a three-course $ under US$10 meal for one with half $$ US$11–15 a bottle of wine (or $$$ US$16–25 equivalent meal), taxes, $$$$ US$26–35 and extra charges. $$$$$ over US$35 Beyond Buenos Aires El Drugstore, Colonia Bars and Restaurants
El Drugstore, Colonia with langoustines – competes ! A casual, exposed-kitchen with excellent parrilla fare at the gem covered with Warhol- convivial Vicente. d Map A4 • Avda. inspired pop prints, El Drugstore Escalada 2100 • 4635-4657 • $$$ serves tapas, cocktails, and maté. d Map B4 • Calle Vasconcellos & Mi Vaca y Yo, Mataderos 179 • 598-52-25241 • $$ The best place in Mataderos for parrilla libre, where waiters El Mesón de la Plaza, keep bringing little plates of @ Colonia requested cuts. The atmosphere The most respected restaurant in can be hectic, but the meat is Colonia’s Barrio Histórico, El superb. d Map A4 • Calle Juan Felipe Mesón has alfresco seating and Aranguren 4201 • 4674-4878 • $ an Uruguay-centric wine list to complement its grilled beef and * Lo de Charlie, Punta lamb dishes. d Map B4 • Calle del Este Vasconcellos 153 • 598-52-24807 • $$$ The intimate, pastel Lo de Charlie offers a warm, cozy Baar Fun Fun, Montevideo sense of refinement. Excellent £ A touchstone in tango lore, seafood dishes are prepared in covered with clippings of the open kitchen, and the cheese illustrious musicians, Baar Fun ice cream is legendary. d Map C4 Fun is also a great place for beer • Calle 12 • 598-424-44183 • $$$$ and a pizza. d Map Q5 • Calle Ciudadela 1229 • 598-291-58005 • $$ Tante, Pinamar ( This bustling, handsome La Terraza, Tigre restaurant is popular for a group $ Stop by for a simple menu dinner or late-night drinks and of sandwiches and the usual fondue. German specialties parrilla suspects. d Map B4 • Paseo feature alongside well-executed Victorica 135 • 4731-2916 • $ Argentinian classics like steaks and antipasti. d Map B5 • Calle de las La Cuadrada, Artes 35 • 02254-482735 • $$$ % Mar del Plata Find excellent teas, cakes, and El Club, Tandil home-made pastas at this ) The oil paintings and dark fanciful eatery. d Map B6 • Avda. 9 woods of a cigar lounge are de Julio 2737 • 0223-494-2288 • $ mixed with checkerboard floors and small tables of a Parisian ^ Vicente, Mataderos bistro, while the food and bar The richer side of porteño menus are suitably international. cooking – roast chicken in d Map A5 • Calle Pinto 636 spinach cream sauce and risotto • 02293-435878 • $$$ Recommend your favorite restaurant on traveldk.com 99
STREETSMART
General Information 102 Planning Your Trip BUENOS AIRES’ TOP 10 103 Getting to Buenos Aires 104 Getting Around 105 Things to Avoid 106 Budget Tips 107 Banking & Communications 108 Security & Health 109 Shopping Tips 110 Accommodation & Dining Tips 111 Places to Stay 112–117
102 Streetsmart newspaper andis is afreeEnglish-language distributed in city bars,distributed incity be vastly inflated. Prices ofthesetendto bought inMicrocentro. and listings magazine. bilingual culture and Fridays. have listingsectionson Clarín andLaNacion Spanish-language dailies, listings onFridays. Ofthe It carries fullevent and Anglo-Argentinians. daily, popularwithexpats is anEnglish-language and Magazines www.bue.gov.ar. official touristwebsite canbefoundcity onthe mation deskswithinthe complete listofinfor- accommodation advice. A information, and provide maps,general throughout thecity. Staff p104) andatlocations domestic airports international and mation desksatthecity’s There aretouristinfor- ! Left weeks, Published every two $ The £ as themagazines New York Times,aswell The Timesand Foreign newspapers, @ A tourist information center
Information Tourist and Listings Free Publications and Magazines Local Newspapers Newspapers Foreign Newsweek canbe Buenos Aires Herald Buenos Aires General Information The Argentimes Wicked!? isa Preceding pages Dinersat Café Tortino The The (see Time
in San Telmo. Guia Divinaisdistributed scenes.Larestaurant on music,club,bar, and andhasfulllistingscity is distributedallover the & • • ^ % Travel, andafreelistings gay travel agencyPride lesbian destination. The prominent gay and as South America’s most Buenos Aires rivals Rio * hotels, andhostels. Florida 835 • 3rdFloor, Office 320, available wheelchair usersarealso toursforguests. City equipped for disabled shape. Better hotelsare street rampsareinbad (Línea D)ispart-equipped on housing. requests andhasdetails with languageexchange Ithelpsreservations. other usesbesidesflight agency, ASATEJ,has www.letstango.com.ar. listingsvisit tango www.yesba.org.try For andjobsshared housing, mation onactivities, aires.com. For infor- www.whatsupbuenostry is www.bue.gov.ar. Also for wheelchair usersand Center
www.asatej.com Open 9am–7pmMon–Fri Websites Only onesubway line Disabled Visitors The student travel ASATEJ pointA goodstarting Travelers Gay andLesbian Disabled bathroom sign (see p105).
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Right p43). parade inNovember (see There isagay pride excellent information. gaymaps.com), provide guide, ( ) in the city inthe1990s.in thecity account ofanexpat’s life Buenos Aires,isan travelogue, guide. MirandaFrance’s co-authors isadefinitive !Tango! by Collierand stunningly photographed For the lighterreading, Real Odessaby Goñi. Perón by Ortizand Perón years includeEva BooksMontaldo. onthe by Nouzeilles and • 10am–2pm, 3–6pmMon–Fri 523 •5218-6556 •Open Floor, Office E,Paraguay 25 (Christmas). Conception); December of theImmaculate Day); December8(Day October 12 (Columbus Martin MemorialDay); Day); August 17 (San July 9(Independence Day); June 20(FlagDay); May 25(May Revolution Day); May 1(LaborDay); Malvinas War Veterans April 2(Falklands/ Thursday; GoodFriday); Holy(dates vary: and Justice); March/April forDay ofMemory Truth Day); March 24(National 1(NewJanuary Year’s up Argentina’s pick history,
www.pride-travel.com The Argentina ReaderThe Argentina Public holidays are Public Holidays For anoverview of Background Reads Local newspapers d Gay Maps Pride Travel:2nd Bad Times in Bad Times (www. The The
Streetsmart 103
Time Zone Aires is 3 Buenos Electricity Argentina uses a Driver’s Licenses Driver’s you if can drive You Customs Short-term visitors A currency exchange office exchange A currency ( ) * & hours behind Greenwich hours behind Greenwich Time (GMT) during Mean the summer and 4 hours behind GMT in the It is 2 hours winter. ahead of United States Eastern Standard time. Time is Saving Daylight not observed. 50-cycle 220-volt, have an International an International have Carry Driving Permit. permit whenever your along with one drive, you of identi- other form as passport fication such or national ID card. can bring the following can bring the following Argentina items into import without paying of lb (5 kg) duties: 11 64 fl. oz. foodstuffs, (2 l) of alcoholic drinks, and 3.4 fl. 400 cigarettes, ml) of perfume. oz. (100 Photographic equipment, medicine, and personal be also computers may imported duty-free. plugs. To plugs. To use American will appliances you require a transformer while and an adaptor, British appliances need Both an adaptor only. can be bought at local stores. hardware electrical system. electrical system. Electrical sockets accept accept Electrical sockets two- or three-pronged Right Avda. Avda. d www. • 4317-0234 4317-0234 • Health Preparations Currency Currency Information Passport and Passport Visas Open 8am–1:30pm Open 8am–1:30pm Mon–Fri Mon–Fri Antártida Argentina 1355 Antártida Argentina 1355 Retiro migraciones.gov.ar ^ No compulsory are required vaccinations Aires and the Buenos for to tap is safe water city’s drink, though many bottled visitors prefer Visitors should water. take out their own medical insurance since Argentina does not have reciprocal health agreements with any other country. % is the local currency The Argentinian peso (AR$), centavos divided into 100 or cents. Bills are issued 20-, 50-, and in 2-, 5-, 10-, rate exchange The tions. AR$3 around hovers to US$1. • $ the of the EU, Citizens do not and Canada USA, require visas for entry A 90-day Argentina. permit is granted at can immigration, which a further by be extended the exiting on 90 days country (usually via a or by Uruguay) to day-trip charge a US$100 paying at the Dirección Nacional de Migraciones. 50-centavo denomina- 50-centavo 100-peso denominations. denominations. 100-peso and 2- Coins come in 1- 25-, and peso and 5-, 10-, Southern hemisphere’s seasons are: Spring: Aug–Oct, Summer: Aug–Oct, Summer: seasons are: Spring: hemisphere’s Southern Winter: May–Jul Feb–Mar, Fall: Nov–Jan, Planning Your Trip Planning
Allow at least a week at least a week Allow How Long to Stay to Long How In summer, pack light light pack In summer, What to Pack When to Go When to best time to visit The Tourists at the popular Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur Ecológica Costanera popular Reserva at the Tourists
for Buenos Aires. Seven Aires. Seven Buenos for enough you will give days the city’s time to explore most important neighbor- hoods and sights, take in and maybe a tango show, trip to in a day squeeze too. Colonia in Uruguay is to two weeks days Ten you ideal and will allow this to really get to know amazing city – its stores, restaurants, parks, and attrac- other out-of-town Tigre and as tions such San Antonio de Areco. clothes, especially cotton clothes, especially cotton and linen, since humidity Also high levels. reaches sunglasses, high- pack sunscreen, and a factor light raincoat. Heavy rain is common in January In spring and February. and a light jacket and fall, will be needed, sweater a warm and in winter, some coat. Do pack smart, stylish clothes too to dress – porteños love up when going out.
Buenos Aires is during during Aires is Buenos the southern hemi- spring or fall, sphere’s are a when temperatures pleasant 64–73°F (18– 23°C). In summer it can get hot and humid. In January and February, reach when temperatures 95°F (35°C), porteños city the en masse leave resorts. beach Atlantic for £
@ ! Left 104 Streetsmart ! Left there, aconnecting downtown office. From hour for thecompany’s from Ezeiza everyhalf- conditioned anddepart are modernandair- center.city Mini-buses between Ezeiza andthe a 24-hourshuttle service Manuel Tienda León runs Terminals A andB, salesdesksinWith £ d downtown Buenos Aires. is located1hourfrom at terminal A orB. Ezeiza international flightsarrive located. Nearlyall district inwhich it is called Ezeiza after the commonlyPistarini, Aeropuerto Ministro national airportis Buenos Aires’inter- @ 6111; www.aa2000.com.ar and domesticflights:5480- information oninternational have non-stopservices. American andUnited Brazil. From theUSA, Aires viaSãoPaolo in Airways Frankfurt). British and Lufthansa (from Barcelona andMadrid), and Rome), Iberia(from Paris), (fromMilanAlitalia including Air France (from directly toBuenos Aires, European carriers alsofly SeveralNorth America. Aires fromEuropeand flies directlytoBuenos For recordedflight A carrental signinthecity Aerolíneas Argentinas By Air from Ezeiza orBus By Shuttle Ministro Pistarini Aeropuerto Getting toBuenosAires flies toBuenos 8am to 10pm Sun. The city’s subway systemruns from5amto11pm Mon–Sat and
Right ^ from Uruguay. flights, plusflightstoand almost alldomestic downtown. Ithandles district 10 minutesfrom in thecity’s Palermo andislocatedNewbery port is Aeroparque Jorge The city’s domesticair- % own taxi. or phonetoarrange your from withintheairport approved firmsoperating fromoneofthea taxi avoided. Instead,order at Ezeiza andarebest swarm theterminalexits remise (mini-cab)drivers Unauthorized and taxi $ remise fromoneofthe orcan alsohireataxi to thearrivals area. You Taxis lineupattheexit & center. Ezeiza andthecity line 86,runs between hotels. Onepublicbus, takesvisitorsto service city center.city Aeroparque withthe bus linesalsoconnect half-hour. Several public center, departingevery airport andthecity between thedomestic a shuttle service Manuel Tienda León runs www.tiendaleon.com.ar 1299; 0810 888-5366; from Ezeiza or By Taxi From Aeroparque orBus By Shuttle Newbery Aeroparque Jorge from Aeroparque or By Taxi Planes attheairport d Avda. E.Madero Remise Remise
or calloneofyour own. from withintheairport, approved firmsoperating 4316-6400 Argentina 821; Ticket sales: Mejía 1680; 4310-0700 ( services. from Retiro tolocalbus There areconnections commonly calledRetiro. Terminal deOmnibus, terminal, theEstación city’s centralbus countries stopatthe inces orfromneighboring Aires frominteriorprov- Buses arriving inBuenos * d ) 4777-8888 4931-1200 •Remises: Blue argentina.com.ar 43789; www.hertz com.ar •Hertz:0810 222- 0810 9991-2847; www.avis. district. the Puerto Madero Dock) boatterminal in Darseña Norte(Northern times dailyatthe Uruguay arrive several Punta delEstein Montevideo, Colonia,and and apassport. license, acreditcard, 21 andhave adriver’s a car, you mustbeover required mileage. To rent sized car, dependingon per day for amedium- a roughguideisUS$150 airports. Pricesbut vary, their offices inthe Radio Taxis: Mi Taxi Frequent ferries from By Boat Bus By Long-Distance Avis andHertz have Car Rental
d d Avda. Antártida Avda. Ramos
d Avis:
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, and in , and in 4312- Eternautas: Opción Sur: 4311-5199; 4311-5199; d Tangol: (see p61) QRV – Transportes Transportes – QRV A subway sign A subway d Guided Tours Eternautas runs On Foot to ex- best way The for Transport Disabled Travelers Right Bike Tours: Bike www.biketours.com.ar of respect for two- of respect for cycling wheelers make safe dangerous. Enjoy 3 de in Parque cycling Febrero and Madero the Puerto Recoleta districts. Rent at park entrances. bikes 7276; www.tangol.com www.tangol.com 7276; • 4777-9029; www.opcionsur. 4777-9029; com.ar • ) * ( disabled travelers, For Transportes – QRV Especiales runs programmed and tailor- made city tours in modern wheelchair- It has equipped vehicles. service, an airport shuttle too. 5031-9916; www.eter 5031-9916; nautas.com • Especiales: 4306-6635/15 Especiales: 4306-6635/15 historical tours and historical tours and plore Buenos Aires is on is on Aires plore Buenos Distancesfoot. between neighborhoods are short and easy to navigate. and Telmo, San Palermo, a Recoleta are great for is best Microcentro walk. on weekdays. avoided Opción Sur specializes in in Opción Sur specializes Tangol audio-visual tours. soccer game visits offers and helicopter tours. bicycling runs Tours Bike guided Free excursions. tours are also available . (see p107) (licensed (licensed Remises Bicycling On the road, pot- Driving in the city is Driving Taxi and Remise Taxi are ubiquitous Taxis A cyclist at Parque 3 de Febrero 3 de Febrero at Parque A cyclist holes, lack of cycle lanes, lanes, of cycle holes, lack general lack and drivers’ a nightmare. Traffic is is Traffic a nightmare. heavy, local driving habits are risky, and parking is of a maze Add scarce. and systems one-way driving becomes even If you more challenging. remember that do drive, front seatbelts are com- pulsory, cars crossing right from the right have and the speed of way, limit is 25 mph (40km/h) rising to 37 mph (60km/ h) on main avenues. in Buenos Aires and are and are Aires in Buenos of two kinds: standard taxis and radio taxis, both their recognizable by coloring. yellow-and-black taxis, Radio recognizable on “radio taxi” written by and their doors, are safer can be both flagged at or ordered by street level phone. mini-cabs) are hired by phone only and arrive minutes of within 10–15 calling the company. Retiro bus terminal. bus terminal. Retiro departing for Trains destinations south of as the capital, such and Pinamar, Tandil, Mar del Plata, depart from Constitución station. Of these two lines, the northern line is more modern. and safer & ^ % Center Bus lines operate 24 hours a day. Getting Around Getting
Train heading north Trains Tr a m Inaugurated in 2007, The Buenos Aires Aires Buenos The Subway Bus well- Aires is Buenos A bus on the city streets streets A bus on the city
from Buenos Aires, Aires, from Buenos including those stopping Tigre, depart from at train station Retiro, located adjacent to the the Tranvía del Este del Este Tranvía the serves the Puerto Madero district, running Alicia parallel to Avenida bet- Moreau de Justo Córdoba Avenidas ween and Independencia. subway system is a safe, is a safe, system subway of reliable, and good way around central getting are six There districts. E, and C, D, A, B, lines: A is the oldest H. Line (and still uses wooden which trains) and Line D, links Microcentro with The is busiest. Palermo, standard per journey fare covering Tickets is 90c. can be journeys up to 10 bought at stations. serviced bus routes, by if the buses (called even in Spanish) do colectivos the city’s nothing for noise and pollution bus stops and For levels. of a copy routes, buy Guía T from a kiosk or, still, ask a local. better for standard The fare length is any of journeys into the AR90c, payable behind the machine ticket seat. driver’s
$ £
@ ! Left 106 Streetsmart ! Left £ @ in Puerto Madero. characterless restaurants steak atexpensive and money onsecond-rate beforetwice spending nor Argentinian. Think are neitherauthenticIrish in Microcentrosincethey priced Irishthemepubs wide berthtotheover- aimed atvisitors.Give a for“tango export” shows ‘em inherd‘em out Calle Floridaandtheherd leather goodsstoreson Buenos Aires’province. weekend housesin en masseforcity class porteñosleave the evenings, whenmiddle- 8pm, especiallyonFriday and between5pm weekdays before 10am day. Roads areworse on hour lastingnearlyall Aires isheavy,withrush nab your wallet. uses thedistractionto just asathirdperson and helpsyou wipeitoff, brings ittoyour attention street. A “passerby” your shirtonabusy issquirtedovermustard local trick inwhich scams–a“mustard” for pickpockets and In San Telmo watch out Boca andConstitución. southern districtsofLa areas. These includethe but becarefulincertain safegenerally avery city Heavy traffic on Avenida Corrientes Right Avoid thecostly Tourist Traps Traffic inBuenos Rush Hour is Buenos Aires Crime Hotspots Things toAvoid For ofsafe taxifirms telephone numbers ^ circulate.taxis district, whererogue the Puerto Madero flagging downin taxis passenger’s seat. Avoid the driver’s orfront certificate ontheback of official registration does notdisplay an Never that getintoataxi % inform theoperator. case ofradiotaxis, change,carrying orinthe hand ifthedriver is your fare. Check before- change, whileaddingto driving aroundlookingfor will spend15 minutes nation notes,thedriver you offer highdenomi- in Buenos Aires andif ofsmallchangeshortage There isachronic $ when thecity’s is metaphorically. This at night–literallyand 3 deFebrero turns dark Beautiful by day, Parque & to theground. keeping your eyes fixed shoe andpoopisby unfortunate unionof only way toavoid an Palermo Viejo, wherethe such asSan Telmo and bad inresidentialdistricts and crime.Itisespecially alongside unemployment in mayoral elections, features asamajorissue Without Change Taking a Taxi Dog poophere Dog Poop Taxi Drivers Unscrupulous Febrero atNight Parque 3 de Crowds inSan Telmo See p104. the sightin. others may want totake will wishtoavoid it, over. While somevisitors and theirpimpstake transvestite prostitutes ( fake pesonotes. exchange rateorgive you likely toripyou off onthe nomic crisis. They are Argentina’s 2001 eco- Calle Floridasince trees,” thesehave lined Called * ) large pinch ofsalt. and besttakenwitha all invariably harmless, is comments. However, it subjected topassing travelers canbe inwhichsociety women a relentlesslymacho everywhere. And itis places, smokers are on smokinginpublic abandon. Despiteaban old swear withgay correctness. Youngand heed topolitical at thistimearecheap. the flipside,hotelprices Atlantic coastresorts. On heading to Argentina’s forcity vacations, most porteñosleave the also takeadipsince activities andnightlife The city’s cultural soars. and humidity tures reach 104°F (40°C) This iswhentempera- to visitBuenos Aires. Porteños pay little Taking Offense Money Changers Unauthorized Not thebestmonth January arbolitos or “little Streetsmart 107
Cheap Movies Cheap Movies and Theater Picnics every lunch Buying Cheap Stays best Hostels are your Launderettes are very Launderettes www.cicerones.org.ar www.cicerones.org.ar that works with over 70 70 with over that works bilingual guides. Simply fill out the online form. ( theater tickets Movie are half-price from Wednesday to Monday and mid-day and for screenings afternoon throughout the week. stage State-run theaters discounted entry offer once a week. ) & * d day can be expensive. can be expensive. day Instead, store bread, and cold cheese, fruit, meats in the fridge at place of accommo- your for lunch dation and pack can safely You the day. drink tap water. bet for cheap stays. stays. cheap bet for double and have Many at twin rooms available will You modest rates. also benefit from the use fridge, of the kitchen, laundry, and lounge areas (see p117). and ubiquitous, cheap everywhere along found main side streets off A same-day avenues. service a large bag of for clothing typically costs around US$4 to wash at Ask and tumble-dry. hotel reception for your the nearest launderette. Centro Cultural Recoleta Cultural Right Centro see see Gallery (see pp16– d Free Tours Free cityThe government Free Cultural Cultural Free Events and the Museo de la and the Museo de la runs free guided visits to free guided visits to runs historically important neighborhoods and buildings, and themed tours on personalities as Evita and such the official Check Borges. ( tourist website also has , which p102) city-audio downloadable tours in English and more free Spanish. For guided tours, contact Cicerones, a non- organization government Bellas Artes Bellas 17) 17) . (see p8) Casa Rosada free entrySome allow Discounts once a week. students for are available ID and people with valid 65. over Nights: www.artealdia.com Nights: www.artealdia.com de los Museos: • Noche www.lanochedelosmuseos. com.ar ^ % held “Gallery Nights,” to November from March of the on the last Friday month, between 7 and 60 art sees over 11pm, entry galleries offering annual The free. for de los Museos in Noche October sees more than museums offering 100 In the free entry. summer months, look free classical out for music concerts held on in Palermo’s weekends as well Rosedal, Parque celebrations as Carnaval in February. Antigua Tasca de Cuchilleros sign de Cuchilleros Tasca Antigua Center tenedor tenedor Most parks and gardens in Buenos Aires stay open from 8am to Aires stay open from 8am to in Buenos Most parks and gardens closing 1 hour earlier in winter. 7pm in summer, Budget Tips Budget (all you can eat), can eat), (all you bodegón, a family-
Free Museums Free and Galleries Free Parks Parks Free and Gardens Most bars offer happy happy Most bars offer Cheap Nights Out Cheap Eats eats Decent cheap Teatro San Martín San Martín Teatro
sign in the tenedor libre sign in the hour drinks between 6 hour drinks between 6 to Switch and 10pm. local beer after cheaper that, the most popular of is Quilmes. Fernet, which a spirit usually mixed is equally with coke, and popular. inexpensive oriented steakhouse oriented steakhouse serves and large which steak dishes. inexpensive window. For nutritious nutritious For window. bites, every porteño neighborhood has its own where a buffet meal for meal for where a buffet one costs US$5. Most are concentrated in Microcentro; look out for a can be had at libres Many museums and museums and Many free entry galleries offer in- throughout the week, cluding the Museo de $
£ Aires has free Buenos parks and gardens that walking, for are perfect sunbathing, and playing Among the most sports. popular ones are the Reserva Ecológica an eco- Costanera Sur, logical preserve to the Madero; east of Puerto Botánico Jardín Palermo’s Carlos Thays (Botanical Garden); and Parque 3 de Febrero.
@ ! Left 108 Streetsmart 0810-444-2482 3333 •DinersClub 0800-555-0507 • Visa 4379- 777-3165 •MasterCard American Express0800- stolen creditcardscall: ! Left $ £ @ foreign bankcards. shows they accept the “Link” signthat machines; justlookfor are equippedwith ATM bank tobank. All banks fromalthough ratesvary exchange bureau, sion ratesthanan exchange andcommis- banks tendtooffer better exchange counterswithin an hourlater. Currency an hourearlierorclose though somemay open 10am–3pm onweekdays, reaux currency exchange bu- Diner’s Club. American Expressand to alesserextent, Visa andMasterCard cards inBuenos Aires are accepted creditanddebit your bank. Surcharges depend on and operate24hours. American Expresscards MasterCard, and them accept Visa, charges. Nearlyall of way tobeatcommission money andareagood easiest way toaccess BancoFrancés Banks generallyopen Banks There arenumerous Changing Money The mostwidely Credit Cards ATMs provide the ATMs (casas decambio) Banking &Communications local 8-digitnumber. When calling from dial011.Argentina, first When calling Buenos dial+5411Aires fromoverseas, before the
d
In caseof Center ATM
Right & d ^ d % Arenales 707;4310-3535 to belower. sion ratesatbankstend 9am–6pm daily. Commis- particular. They areopen San Martínstreetsin Florida, Sarmiento,and in Microcentro,on Correo Central, deCorreos:name, Lista ed asfollows: Recipient’s post office andaddress- sent tothecity’s central Restante mailshouldbe certificado). as registeredpost aswellgeneral delivery they sendairmail by 6pm onweekdays and areopen 9am– service postal Correo Argentino a listoflocalaffiliates. maximum payments, and website for charges, Western Union. Visit their overseas canbedonevia under any circumstance. accept traveler’s checks exchange bureaurarely other thanacurrency Note thatbusinesses checks freeofcharge. cashes itsown traveler’s Express office however, 3 percent. The American sion, often asmuch as high ratesofcommis- exchange bureau,butat banks oracurrency c be always www.westernunion.com American Express: Traveler’s Checks Branches ofthe Mail Sending money from Bank Transfers Traveler’s checks can Locutorio andInternet Café hanged at Poste (correo call and fax services. call andfax services. and alloffer international open 10am–11pm daily tors. Mostcentersare are thetwolargestopera- Telefónica and Telecom Aires, andtelecomgiants are ubiquitousinBuenos ( Call centers * d ) correoargentino.com.ar general delivery only.general delivery airmailing too,butby centers undertake callArgentina. Telephone Federal,Capital Sarmiento 189, (1003) www.phonerental.com.ar 948, 3rdfloor;4311-2933; Phone Rental:SanMartín alternative. cell phoneisagood around US$3.Renting a be boughtatkiosksfor local SIMcard,which can own phoneandbuy a difficult. You can useyour receiving callsandtext can beexpensive, and band, butmakingcalls with atri-bandorquad- phones work in Argentina wireless connections. have and restaurants Most modernbars,cafés, cheap.and isusuallyvery broadband connection isvia speedy Service turn inBuenos Aires. are found atalmost every Internet accessandboth Internet cafés provide Correo Argentino: www.Correo Argentino: Most foreign cell Cell Phones and Fax Telephone Call centersand Internet Access d (locutorios) Mobile
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prefer prefer phone a phone a ravelers Consulates: d farmacia de turno farmacia (“I’m casada (“I’m estoy Consulates Most major countries Drinking Water Drinking tap water Argentina’s T Women Most women Pharmacies biggest Argentina’s • Australia 4779-3550 Australia • • Ireland 5787-0801 • Canada 4805-3032 Zealand 4328-0747 • New • UK 4808-2200 5777-4533 • USA ) * ( & have consulates in the consulates in the have In an emergency, city. any have especially if you dealings with the police, insist on contacting your consulate. is safe to drink. Many drink. Many to is safe visitors, however, water. to drink bottled will find Buenos travelers and Aires a relaxed Argentinian casual city. men can sometimes be amorous, but this is over easily deflected with a firm Women married”). should, how- travelers take care when ever, taking taxis alone and should always pharmacy chain is is pharmacy chain has Farmacity, which throughout the branches All neighborhoods city. to 24-hour access have pharmacies. Head to the nearest one; if it is not open, the address of the nearest will be posted on its It is usually just a door. away. couple of blocks radio taxi. traveldk.com Servicio de . If you . If you (see p105) d Farmacia de La Estrella Farmacia Dental Treatment Dental treatment in Hospitals and Medical Clinics Taking Taxis Taking is to way safest The Map D5; Hospital Right Buenos Aires is good and Aires is good and Buenos and most inexpensive hospitalsprivate have emer- dental clinics. For gencies, the Servicio de Urgencias, at the state dental university’s faculty, is open 24 hours a day. phone a radio taxi or remise do flag a taxi at street a radio taxi for look level, on (“radio taxi” is written the car doors) rather than a standard taxi, as it is is especially This safer. advisable in Puerto Madero where rogue taxis to are known circulate. Also, never take a taxi from directly a walk ATM; outside an first. couple of blocks Urgencias; Marcelo T de Urgencias; Marcelo 4964-1259 2146; Alvear Británico: Perdriel 74; 74; Británico: Perdriel 4309-6400; www. hospitalbritanico.org.ar d ^ Medical treatment is best Medical treatment is best sought at one of the hospitals, private city’s where the cost of treat- compared to ment is low and Europe, and the USA of service the level high. Hospital Británico has a main hospital in the south of the city for 24-hour emergencies and neighborhood clinics for medical consultations. % $
Policeman Policeman Policía
d Center Comisaría Bomberos
• d ). ). (see p106 Share your travel recommendations on Security & Health Security
Buenos Aires is Theft Prevention Theft Police be Should you Emergency Emergency Numbers Dental care Dental care
(for gas gas (for Civil Defensa Emergencia médica
del Turista: Avda. del Turista: Corrientes 436; 0800-999-5000; open 24hrs; turista@ policiafederal.gov.ar (ambulance service) 107 (ambulance service) 107 extremely safe when when safe extremely compared to other Latin American cities and most in big cities anywhere Most crimes the world. taking by can be avoided simple precautions. a few bags unat- leave Never of tended or on the back in bars and restau- chairs rants, do not flash money off around, do not show photographic expensive or video equipment, and, crime of course, avoid hotspots unfortunate enough to be enough to be unfortunate a victim of crime, report the incident at the , Turista Comisaría del located downtown. tourists, it Specifically for with English- is staffed speaking police 24 hours Otherwise go a day. directly to the nearest police station or comisaría. leaks, power cuts, cuts, leaks, power flooding) 103.
£ @ • • ! In case of emergency the numbers can following be dialed free of charge 24 hours a day. Left (fire service) 100 (fire service) 100 (police) 911 110 Streetsmart ! Left $ £ @ counters) for arefund. de pago(payment you toanairport Customs, which sends atthese arestamped On leaving Argentina when makingapurchase. and GlobalRefund check (US$22). Ask for areceipt products above AR$70 Argentinian-manufactured Refund logowhenbuying purchases withaGlobal back onany thetax goods. Visitors canclaim in theadvertised pricefor of 21percentisincluded or allday Sunday. close at1pmonSaturday end hoursvary. Some to Friday, thoughweek- open 9am–8pmMonday open longer. Otherstores ters withinmallsstay courts andmovie thea- an hour’s variation. Food though theremay be usually open10am–10pm Microcentro shouldstill traffic-choked, but Diner’s Club American Express,and are Visa andMasterCard, stores. Preferred cards ted, except insmall cards areusuallyaccep- accept USdollars.Credit though many placesalso accepted inmoststores Argentinian peso,is An item atanantiqueshop Argentina’s salestax Taxes andRefunds Shopping mallsare Opening Hours It iscrowded and Shopping Zones Cash, preferably the Payment Shopping Tips For Buenos bestshoppingmalls Aires’ (see p108). puesto Center ^ % d & Avda. Dorrego yConde boho-chic clothesstores. Palermo Viejo hasmany national labels. Trendy with localandinter- has high-endboutiques artisans’ shops.Recoleta and departmentstoresto thing here,frommalls There isabitofevery- pedestrian CalleFlorida. shoppers, especiallythe pointforbe thestarting handicrafts atthe week- can buy inexpensive Mission as ElBoyero, Kelly’s storessuchwoolens, try nalia, andindigenous on AvenidaCorrientes. bilia, headtothestores p36). For memora- tango Francia inRecoleta end artisans’ fair atPlaza traditional best deals. Ortíz inPalermo offer the of MurilloandScalabrini shops attheintersection leather overpriced. The Calle Floridacanbe goods, thoughthoseon USA. Storessellleather ed toEuropeandthe favorably pricedcompar- of excellent and quality Pulgas inPalermo Viejo. Visit theMercadodelas Plaza Dorrego (seep18). fair, heldeach Sunday at for itsantiquestores and MercadodelasPulgas: For gaucho ware, Souvenirs Argentinian leatheris Leather Goods San Telmo isfamous Antiques Leather items ondisplay (see p38).You maté parapher- (see , and See p39. Right ( d * ) d books.com.ar 617,4300-7135: www.walrus Books: Unidos Estados elateneo.com; Walrus 1860; 4811-6104; www. Splendid: Avda. Fe Santa com.ar 4778-3443; www.terroir. Map L1;Buschiazzo 3040; www.ligier.com.ar • Terroir: Sante Fe 800;5353-8060; Avda. Fe Santa 1270 Abraxas:Galería 5ta Avda.; Talcahuano 385;4382-2539; com; DisqueríaBird: Fe 1844; www.musimundo. and Abraxas feature vinyl. classical. DisqueríaBird offers jazz,and tango, music. Zival’s (seep27) Argentinian rock andfolk Its collectionincludes branches inthecity. Musimundo hasmany services. ing anddelivery and Terroir offer packag- cluding Mendoza.Ligier growing regions,in- from Argentina’swine boutiques) stock wines Vinotecas (orwine zones andmalls, second-hand English- Galerna Gandhi try Otherwise, English-language books. stocksSouth America, largest bookstorein Grand Splendid,the Books. language booksat Walrus Ligier:MapQ5; Avda. Musimundo: Avda. Santa Bookstore Local mega-chain Music Found inshopping Argentinian Wine The glorious Ateneo Books d (see p69).Find Ateneo Grand Ateneo
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jugoso (tip) propina (tip) See pp56–7. a punto (medium- (red) or vino tinto (red) or Dress Codes Dress most restau-Though Tipping Tipping in the city is The Menu and Ordering and as late as 11pm on on 11pm and as late as Accordingly, weekends. restaurants open noon– 4pm and 8pm–1am. stop taking Kitchens orders an hour prior to closing time. (rare), rare), or bien cocido (well wines, ask for -done). For either vino blanco (white). ( ) * Increasingly, menus are in both Spanish written don’t and English. If you understand an item, just restau- Many ask a waiter. “executive rants have menus” aimed at the and crowd lunchtime a three-course featuring meal and a drink at a price. In steak- fixed your houses, ask for steak to come rants do not enforce rants do not enforce diners dress codes, many for to dress well choose a night at upscale restaurants. Some nightclubs will not permit entrance if you sneakers. wear in proportion with most other cities. Hotel porters a are given of around US$1–2. For in hotel staff the waiting restaurants tip 10–15 percent of the bill. On a tip leave out, checking the maids. for Buenos d Cabaña Las Lilas restaurant Cabaña Las Lilas Right Meal Times stop for Porteños Restaurant Restaurant Reservations Traveling with Traveling Kids Longer-Stay Longer-Stay Options lunch around 1pm, dip around 1pm, dip lunch and coffee for into a café pastries around 5pm, and a late evening then have meal at around 9–10pm, quoted rate, but double- quoted rate, but when booking. check Hotel rates quoted in this guide include tax. Aires Travel Rent: 4371- Rent: Travel Aires 2424; www.buenosaires • Buenos travelrent.com Aires Stay: 5365-0238; www.buenosairesstay.com & ^ ahead when dining Book Aires, out in Buenos especially on weekends. one or two days’ Give notice, rising to three or the exclusive for four restaurants. for If asked a number when making a reservation, hotel your number should suffice. % child- Most hotels allow to stay with ren under 12 their parents free of adding a bed by charge to a double room or arr- anging a triple room with double and single beds. $ spec- agencies Several long- in short- and ialize term rentals of furnished apartments. Buenos and Rent Travel Aires each Aires Stay Buenos apart- 100 over have ments to rent. For more on the best restaurants in Buenos Aires more on the best restaurants in Buenos For Accommodation & Dining Tips & Accommodation
Rack Rates Rack rates provi- rack The Seasonal Demand high season is The Choosing Hotel Choosing Hotel Locations Boutique Home Hotel in Palermo in Palermo Hotel Boutique Home
ded in this book are for ded in this book are for the high season and aim a guide at providing itprice. However, is possible to get a better deal as rates vary accord- ing to season, time of length of stay, and week, your make you how reservation. Sales tax, at a whopping 21 percent Argentina, should be in included in a hotel’s
July–August with several with several July–August and national holidays vacations. winter school of rooms Easy availability rates are and cheap possible January– when porteños February, escape to coastal resorts slows and business travel to a near halt. £
@ ! Microcentro offers proximity to the main shopping district, but can and day by be crowded seedy at night. Upscale districts Recoleta and to Madero, close Puerto are quiet- the city center, and more pleasant er, have Both alternatives. luxury several hotels, and Recoleta also has excel- lent mid-range options. and Telmo San Both good have Viejo Palermo boutique-hotel and B&B history,options. For try proxi- and for Telmo, San mity to shopping and Viejo. dining, Palermo Left 112 Streetsmart • $$$$$ • www.alvear palace.com Recoleta •4808-2100 • Avda.1891, Alvear restaurants. restaurants. and enjoy thelavish marbled wellness spa, Luxuriateinthe service. Egyptian linen,andbutler suites boastantiqueart, most luxurioushotel.Its The Alvear isthecity’s ! Left $ d ground artgallery. garden, andanunder- wellness center, private amenities hereincludea public spaces.Luxurious classic splendorofits palace contrastwiththe of thisrestored1930s suitesThe contemporary £ d den withaRoman pool. feature isaclassicalgar- suited mansion. Another furnishings, oratthesix- beds andmarble tower, withking-sized in theelegantmain roomStay inastandard @ hyatt.com •$$$$$ • www.buenosaires.park. 1661, Recoleta•5171-1234 com •$$$$$ 1200 •www.fourseasons. 1086/88, Recoleta•4321- and embellishedby cious, thickly carpeted, tower’s suitesarespa- Map P4 • Avda.P4 Map Alvear Map P4•Posadas Four SeasonsHotel Hotel Four Seasons Hotel Alvear Palace This glossy,modern Caesar Park Buenos Aires Park Hyatt Luxury Hotels and air conditioning. Almost all hotelsacceptcredit cards,haveensuite bathrooms, d Map P4
Center 725 ContinentalHotel d ^ d theater, andawinecellar. pool, gym,spa,cabaret Manager.” There isa also getan “Experience sharp modernity. Guests of romanceandrazor- interior isalavish blend hip andloaded.Its for theultra- luxury star The Faena offers rock- % d skylight, dazzles.skylight, chandelier, andavast floor, huge Art Deco lobby, withcheckerboard ItsArt Decobuilding. with, theSofitelisa1929 A hoteltofall in love & a Japanese garden. andand pool,restaurant, a businesscenter, aspa furnishings. Italsohas marble andhardwood madero.com •$$$$$ • 5776-777 •www.hotel Puerto MaderoEste Peñaloza 360, Dique2, universe.com •$$$$$ • www.faenahoteland Madero Este•4010-9000 445, Dique2,Puerto • $$$$$ • www.caesar-park.com Recoleta •4819-1100 imaginable isprovided. and everyamenity Roomsvistas. arestylish and panoramicriver-city roofwith aretractable features arooftop pool
Map G3•Rosario Vera Map G2•MarthaSalotti Map P4•Posadas 1232, Hotel Madero Hotel Madero and Universe Faena Hotel Aires Sofitel Buenos Right
Restaurant atFaena Hotel
the seduction. Roman poolroundoff aromatic spa,anda Botticino bathrooms,an aires.com.ar •$$$$$ 0000 •www.sofitelbuenos • Arroyo 841,Retiro •4131- fitness centers. spa, andbusiness include arooftop pool, facilitiesState-of-the-art ( bars. world’s 10 besthotel Forbes asoneofthe Its PlazaBar isratedby suites androof-topspa. building withelegant A beautifulbelleépoque * innovative design. modern interiorwith French façade liesa Behind theclassical ) d com.ar •$$$$$ • www.marriottplaza. 1005, Retiro •4318-3000 • $$$$$ • www.axelhotels.com San Telmo •4136-9393 continental.com •$$$$$ continental.com • 4131-8000 •www.725 Peña 725,Microcentro Q6 • Avda. Roque Sáenz welcome non-guests. Friday-night DJ parties restaurant. and astylish health andcocktail bars, garden, gym,solarium, include arooftop pool, a hipcrashpad.Facilities is“hetero-friendly” Axel five-star gay hotel, Map F2• Venezuela 649, Latin America’sfirst Axel Hotel Hotel Marriott Plaza Hotel 725 Continental d Map Q5•Florida d
d Map Q4
Map Streetsmart 113
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Map N5 under US$50 under $ d $$ US$50–110 $$$ US$110–170 Map E2 • Moreno $$$$ US$170–240 over US$240 $$$$$ over
d 562 Nogaró 562 Nogaró Buenos Aires Intercontinental Intercontinental Buenos Aires Design Suites Zen tranquility The of Map F2 • Avda. Map A. Julio F2 • Avda. • 5256-7700 • www. • $$$$ dazzlertower.com Q5 • San Martín 920, Retiro Q5 • San Martín 920, Retiro 809, Monserrat • 4340-7100 • 4340-7100 809, Monserrat • www.buenos-aires.inter continental.com • $$$$$ Facilities include a spa, include a spa, Facilities pool, and gym. Suites include a Jacuzzi. Roca 562, Monserrat 562, Monserrat Roca • www.562 • 4331-0091 nogaro.com • $$$$ • Marcelo T. de Alvear 1683, 1683, Alvear de T. • Marcelo Norte • 5199-7465 Barrio suites.com • www.design • $$$$ d ) end of its At the cheaper price category, services here include business A and fitness centers. standard room has a a queen- parquet floor, station, bed, a work sized and WiFi broadband. * hotel has a state-of-This the-art fitness center, solarium, indoor heated pool, spa, and spacious, modern elegant rooms. Plus a business center, lounges, and executive an international restau- rant. ( the lobby sets the tone sets the tone the lobby at this sleek design hotel with minimalist decor. Suites include music hydromassage systems, and players, baths, DVD balconies according to category. Map d
d
Price Categories Price a standard, For per double room night (with breakfast if included), taxes, charges. and extra Map Q4 • Avda. Avda. Map Q4 • d Dazzler Tower Dazzler superbly located The Hotel Emperador Hotel hotel blends This NH City and Tower NH City and Art A restored 1930s Pestana Buenos Pestana Aires Dazzler has 11 floors of floors of Dazzler has 11 understated, stylishly furnished, soundproofed one on rooms: ask for sunrise for floors 9–11 Plate. of the River views classic design with state- of-the-art technology. and are king-sized Rooms panoramic river have vista or intimate views garden. of a private include a spa, Facilities indoor fitness center, pool, and gourmet restau- rant. Deco building, NH City block is one Tower and from Plaza de away Amenities include Mayo. gym, business center, 12th-floor The and sauna. pool has river- roof-terrace skyscraper views. F2 • Bolívar 160, Monserrat Monserrat 160, F2 • Bolívar • www.nh- • 4121-6464 hoteles.com • $$$$ del Libertador 420, Retiro • www.hotel • 4131-4000 • $$$$ emperador.com.ar & ^ Map Q5 • Carlos Pellegrini Map Q5 • Carlos Pellegrini • • 5239-1100 Retiro 877, • $$$$$ www.pestana.com % $ from the blocks Four in- Obelisco, facilities clude a large indoor pool, are gym, and spa. Rooms and generously sized Close to soundproofed. the financial district.
Room rates may vary with season, availability, specials, and rates may vary with season, availability, specials, and Room rates. All prices listed are high-season rack promotions. High-End & Business Hotels & Business High-End Map Q4 • San d
Claridge Hotel Hotel Claridge at the English Rooms Sheraton Buenos Sheraton and Hotel Aires Hilton Buenos Hilton Aires Map Q5 • Tucumán 535, Tucumán Map Q5 • Map G1 • Macacha Map G1 • Macacha
Microcentro • 4314-7700 Microcentro • 4314-7700 • www.claridge.com.ar • $$$$ Guemes 351, Dique 3, Madero Este Puerto • www.hilton. • 4891-0000 com • $$$$$ Martín 1225/1275, Retiro Retiro Martín 1225/1275, • www. • 4318-9000 sheraton-ba.com • $$$$ Claridge have hardwood hardwood Claridge have workstations and antique and picture mirrors too its frames. Enjoy restaurant, Tudor-styled outdoor heated pool, The gym, sauna, and spa. business center provides bilingual secretaries.
d £
This centrally located centrally located This standard doubles hotel’s are spacious and sound- or river and have proofed city It has superb views. inter- business facilities, national restaurant, shop- ping arcade with beauty salon and art gallery, indoor/outdoor pool, tennis courts, gym, and spa. @
d ! Hilton’s super-slick The standard rooms feature and ergonomic chairs River Madero or Puerto Amenities Plate vistas. include a fitness center, outdoor pool, wine bar, international restaurant, and business facilities. 562 Nogaró Convention Center Convention 114 Streetsmart aires.com •$$$$ • www.esplendorbuenos Microcentro •5256-8800 Q5 •SanMartín780, of CheGuevara. corridors, includingone icon mosaicsthatlinethe feature isthehugepop- temporary. Butitsbest spacious roomsarecon- bar-restaurantstylish and theEsplendor’sbuilding, A stunning Belle Époque ! Left spacious roomsboast home, LaCayetana’s 11 Set inarestored1820s $ d £ d withterrace.restaurant Jacuzzi, andasumptuous centers, spawithexterior include business/fitness Louis XVstyle. Amenities lavishly decoratedinthe package. Suitesare inaboutique luxury The Meliáoffers five-star @ arthotel.com.ar •$$ 1268 •4821-4744 •www. www.solmelia.com •$$$$$ Recoleta •5353-4000 garden, andartgallery. and sun-drenched roof business lounge,patio area, well-stocked library, rated rooms,acozyliving are 36classicallydeco- accessible rates. There withboutique style town housecombines Map N4• Azcuenaga Map P4•Posadas 1557, Costa Petit Hotel CenterKrista Hotel Boutique Plaza Meliá Recoleta Buenos Aires Esplendor de Historic House La Cayetana This 100-year-old Art Hotel Boutique Hotels d Map
and classes. salonshostshowstango and amini-spa. Three a rooftop pool,solariums, Amenities includeagym, decorate the30rooms. murals andobjetd’art Nouveau interior. Tango beautifully restored Art mansion housewith Royal isacentury-old Tango-themed Dandi ^ d % d with custom-madebath are sublimelyappointed flourishes. Suitesfunky interior isinfusedwith informality.minimalist A withHome mixes luxury & courtyards andagarden. open ontotwoItalianate Living anddiningareas lovely designtouches. com •$$$$$ • www.morenobuenosaires. Monserrat •6091-2000 com.ar •$$$ • www.lacayetanahotel. Monserrat •4383-2230 siondandiroyal.com •$$ • 4307-7623 •www.man Piedras 922/936,San Telmo complete theproposition. cupola-and-turret vistas terrace withJacuzzi, and theater, gymandroof- rant, bijoujazz/tango Latin-American restau- ModernArt Decodetail. coolwith contemporary allsuitesblendbuilding, Map F2•Moreno376, Map E2•México 1330, Royal Mansión Dandi In this1929 Art Deco Moreno 376 Buenos Aires Home Hotel d Map E3• Right Mansión Dandi Royal spa, garden,orpool. amenities. Unwind inthe ( visiting couple. salon. Idealfor the and amassage-therapy There arethreepatios and spacioussuites. with anelaboratelounge is arestored1920s home This romantichideaway * d ) canitas.com •$$ canitas.com • 4771-3878 •www.casalas • Huergo283,LasCañitas aires.com •$$$ 1008 •www.homebuenos 5860, Palermo Viejo •4778- petithotel.com •$$$$$ • 4776-8296 •www.costa Rica 5141, Palermo Viejo kristahotel.com.ar •$$$ kristahotel.com.ar Viejo •4771-4697 •www. • Bonpland 1665, Palermo deck. dark, withpoolandsun garden, candle-litafter There isasecluded woody, yet modern. The aestheticiswarm, with aprivate terrace. appointed suites,one has justfour superbly sun deck. and Zengardenwitha includes aroofterrace bar. Communalspace a loungeareaandresto- features ninerooms,plus andand subtlystylish, bright, contemporary, Cañitas. The interioris a quietstreetinLas Map J2•Honduras This high-endoption Costa Petit Hotel Boutique Krista Hotel This chic hotelsitson Casa LasCañitas d Map J3 • Costa Map J3•Costa d Map K1
d Map J3
Streetsmart 115 Map d Map Q5 • under US$50 under Map Q5 d $ Map E2 • Avda. Avda. Map E2 • $$ US$50–110 d $$$ US$110–170
$$$$ US$170–240 d
over US$240 $$$$$ over
favorite of aristocrats of aristocrats favorite Castelar Hotel Hotel Castelar and Spa Carsson Hotel Carsson provides The de los Dos Hotel Congresos quieter interior room. room. quieter interior and is pleasant Staff helpful. • Paraguay 474, Microcentro 474, • Paraguay • www.orly. • 4312-5344 com.ar • $$ ) and once Opened in 1929 the and writers, the Castelar to Buenos is a throwback golden age. Rooms Aires’ tradition still ooze today best The and elegance. is the marbled feature Turkish spa with statued baths. * ( hotel is excellent This Half the money. for value of the views rooms have The Congreso Nacional. standard inviting rooms are bright and airy, but just US$5 more, you for get a spacious suite with and Jacuzzi. sofa D1 • Rivadavia 1777, 1777, D1 • Rivadavia Congreso • 4372-0466 • www.hoteldoscongresos. com • $$ Viamonte 650, Microcentro 650, Microcentro Viamonte • www. • 4131-3800 hotelcarsson.com.ar • $$ de Mayo 1152, Congreso Congreso 1152, de Mayo • 4383-5000 • www.caste larhotel.com.ar • $$$ old-fashioned charm. The The charm. old-fashioned floor, has a marble lobby and dripping chandeliers, antique oil paintings. are tastefully Rooms decorated and well equipped. Map traveldk.com traveldk.com d Price Categories Price a standard, For per double room night (with breakfast if included), taxes, charges. and extra Map Q5 • Map P5 d d
Gran Hotel Orly Hotel Gran floors Orly has 10 The Dazzler Suites Suites Dazzler Arroyo The fancy, white- fancy, The Hotel Bel Air Bel Hotel of singles, doubles, and of singles, doubles, and inter- triples, plus five connecting rooms. Doubles are clean and with comfortable, each and TV, desk, cable work a for Ask mirror. wall washed façade of this of this façade washed Recoleta elegant 1920s building conceals 77 little if a well-appointed, rooms. dated in decor, Good amenities with restaurant, wine bar, mini-gym, business and baby-sitting center, service. Q4 • Suipacha 1359, Retiro Retiro 1359, Q4 • Suipacha • www.dazzler • 5276-7700 suites.com • $$$ • Arenales 1462, Recoleta Arenales 1462, • • www. • 4021-4000 hahoteles.com • $$$ Pricier superiors are superiors are Pricier contemporary with flat- TV and wooden screen flooring. & ^ hotel is a short stroll This The from downtown. of interior needs a lick paint, but suites are well equipped. Standard “classics” feature bedroom, lounge area, is There and kitchenette. a petite heated pool with poolside sun deck, restaurant, bar, breakfast gym, and sauna. % Paraguay 450, Microcentro Paraguay • www.wald • 4312-2071 orf-hotel.com.ar • $$ Map P3 Map P4 d d
Recommend your favorite hotel on your favorite Recommend Map P6 • Carlos Mid-Range Hotels Mid-Range d
Waldorf Hotel Waldorf light lobby A woody, Guido Palace Guido Palace Hotel Hotel Plaza Hotel Francia Hotel Colón Hotel In this hotel, doubles
• Eduardo Schiaffino 2189, 2189, • Eduardo Schiaffino Recoleta • 4804-9631 • www.hotelplazafrancia. com • $$$ • Guido 1780, Recoleta • Guido 1780, • www.guido • 4812-0341 palace.com.ar • $$ sets a pleasing tone at sets a pleasing tone at has which Waldorf, appealing standard rooms with spotless en- TV. suites and cable are modern, sound-
Pelligrini 507, Microcentro Microcentro 507, Pelligrini • 4320-3500 • www.hotel colon.com.ar • $$$$ $
The Guido Palace is a is a Guido Palace The Époque romantic Belle building of iron balconies shutters. and wooden 24 interior features The comfortable rooms, each with period furnishings. areas are located Lounge floor. on each £ Located on a quiet on a quiet Located street, this charming hotel‘s rooms overlook and are Plaza Francia and well- warm appointed. Services include a business center and free gym. @ ! Carsson Hotel proofed, and painted in painted in and proofed, relaxing neutral tones. and is a pool, gym, There international restaurant. with a a room for Ask 9 de Avenida of view Julio. 116 Streetsmart chelulu.com •$$ Viejo •4772-0289www. Emilio Zolá5185, Palermo malabiahouse.com.ar •$$$ Viejo •4833-2410 •www. • Malabia1555, Palermo tive lounge. andexecu-gym, library, include patios. Amenities indoor andoutdoor ambience isaidedby soothing furnishings. The with contemporary combines frescoes convent, thisB&B A beautifullyrestored ! Left $ • www.cypressin.com •$$ Palermo Viejo •4833-5834 Rica4828, Map K3•Costa £ space. terrace provide external furniture. A patio and features vintage pop art.” The lounge malist, or “kitsch oriental between Mexican, mini- en-suite doubles.Choose with eightrooms;two Hippy-chic guesthouse @ in theoldfamily dining jewel. Breakfast istaken crat’s homeisavintage kissed roofterrace. DVD player, andasun- with leathersofas and ities includealounge brightly painted. Amen- are onthesmallside,but street balcony. Doubles 13 rooms,twowith a Che Lulu Trendy Hotel Trendy Hotel Che Lulu House 1555 Malabia This 1930s aristo- La Otra Orilla This modernB&Bhas Cypress In d B&Bs &Guesthouses promotions. All prices listedare high-season rates. Room ratesmay varywithseason, availability,specials, and Map K3•Pasaje d Map K4 d RightTheCocker
lugargay.com.ar •$$ • 4300-4747 •www. Defensa 1120, San Telmo tours. parties aswell as city classes anddinner organize in-housetango terraces. Helpfulstaff andexteriorlibrary, plus sauna,adult-video modern, homelyrooms, 1900. There areeight residence datingfrom restored, refurbished B&B ishousedina Buenos Aires’ firstgay ^ d % & modern rooms. candle-lit after dusk. Airy, patio isintimateand drapes, andapiano. The chandelier,crystal heavy room, furnishedwith www.otraorilla.com.ar •$$ Palermo •4867-4070 • K4 •Julián Alvarez 1779, com.ar •$$ • www.posada palermo. Palermo Viejo •4826-8792 complete ahomelystay. and largelivingroom recycled antiques.Patio rooms, furnishedwith The resultisfour stylish Argentina’s 2001 crisis. into thisB&Bduring chorizo (sausagehouse), traditional Palermo converted herhome,a hotel with14 distinct gay-friendly B&Bandloft- now astrikinglydesigned Map L4•Salguero1655, Buenos Aires Lugar Gay de Architect Viviana Posada Palermo This 1901 mansionis Casa Bolívar d Map F3• d Map casa
thefourhotel.com •$$ Telmo •4362-1729 •www. • CarlosCalvo 535,San * ) ( casabolivar.com •$$ Telmo •4300-3619 •www. F4 •Finochietto 524,San and twopatios. It hasaspaciouslounge Époque, Zen,andmore. Art Deco,Baroque, Belle suites. Choosebetween roof terrace. also hasaloungeand fireplace andbalcony. It suite withanopen spacious, includingone gardens. and sun-splashedrooftop the vast terrace space 19th-century piano.Enjoy antique furniture, anda ceilings, spiralstaircases, suites withsoaring has five sharplystyled • www.thecocker.com •$$ San Telmo •4362-8451 • Avda. Juan deGaray 458, from thesnugto roomsrangingbut stylish B&B hasseven simple Telmo town house,this Andalusian patios. sage salon,Jacuzzi, and Apart fromfive rooms,it and shabby-chic decor. bundles ofcolonialcharm 1860s housewith 1897 Bourgeois home also hasalounge,mas- daluna.com •$$ • 4343-0911 •www.posa F2 •Perú 565,San Telmo The Cocker An elegantoldSan The Four B&B A perfectly preserved Posada delaLuna This English-owned
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This is the city’s party is the city’s This V&S Hostel a beautiful Occupying Palermo Soho Soho Palermo Hostel Milhouse Map Q5• Viamonte 887, 887, Viamonte Map Q5• rooms – within an an rooms – within home. elegant 1930s is a roof terrace, There and with living, kitchen, dining spaces. Microcentro • 4322-0994 • $ • www.hostelclub.com d a terrace, a lounge, and a a lounge, and a a terrace, pleasant balcony. ( Yrigoyen Map E2• Hipólito • 4345- 959, Monserrat 9604 • www.milhouse hostel.com • $ ) * in Palermo’s Located trendy shopping zone, this hostel has more doubles than dorms, the making it ideal for couple. backpacking Chill-out spaces include J2 • Nicaragua 4728 • www.paler • 4833-0151 mosohohostel.com.ar • $ • Charcas 4422, Palermo • Charcas 4422, Palermo • www. • 4774-8783 Viejo casajardinba.com.ar • $ hostel. Activities hostel. Activities include nightly drinking games, pool tournaments, and nightclub visits. It has a patio and roof-terrace. building with wind- 1910 ing stairway an and V&S is a antique elevator, calm oasis amidst the madness of downtown. are dorms, dou- There a patio bles, quadruples, a lounge, and a small Spanish and tango library. classes are available.
Price Categories Price a standard, For per double room night (with breakfast if included), taxes, charges. and extra E3 • Piedras
Map F3 Map E2 • Avda. Avda. Map E2 • d Map d
d Casa Jardín quiet Palermo This Ostinatto Buenos Ostinatto Hostel Aires Hostel Inn Inn Hostel City Tango hostel has five rooms – rooms – hostel has five dorms two single-sex with 4–5 beds, plus with 4–5 beds, plus single, double, and triple • Chile 680, San Telmo Telmo • Chile 680, San • 4362-9639 • www. • $ ostinatto.com.ar airy Spanish patio. are tastefulRooms and is a garden There clean. terrace. 680, San Telmo • 4300-5776 • 4300-5776 Telmo 680, San • $ • www.hostel-inn.com & ^ a features Ostinatto bijou wine resto-bar, label, and cellar with own and tango free yoga classes. The building’s design hamster-cage links dorms, doubles with bathroom, loft private apartment, and communal roof-terrace with criss-crossing and Lockers walkways. laundry service are provided. Set in an old San Telmo Telmo Set in an old San this lively townhouse, and hostel has mixed dou- dorms, single-sex plus bles, quadruples, laundry, book-exchange, and in-house travel of all is a Best agency. basement bar grungy with pool table, Internet, and very long happy hours. % de Mayo 861, Monserrat Monserrat 861, de Mayo • 4345-2020 • www.hhis pano.com.ar • $$
Map M5 d • Suipacha 748, 748, • Suipacha
Most of the budget hotels and hostels do not have air- Most of the budget hotels and hostels do not have air- conditioning, disabled access, or accept credit cards. Budget Hotels & Hostels Budget
Gran Hotel Hotel Gran Hispano Hotel del Prado Hotel building A 1930s Once the home of a Once the home of a Hotel Varela Hotel Goya Hotel Goya of down- pick The Map F3 • Estados Map Q5
Unidos 342, San Telmo • Telmo Unidos 342, San • hotelvarela@ 4362-1231 hotmail.com • $ Microcentro • 4322-9269 • • $ www.goyahotel.com.ar entered via a marble entered via a marble 19th-century ship-builder, ship-builder, 19th-century town budget hotels, the the budget hotels, town is its best feature Goya’s remodeled top floor with a terrace featuring bar, city breakfast views, suites. and three new comfor- floors have Lower table rooms with hydro- All have massage baths. WiFi or TV and are cable broadband enabled.
$ gem of a hotel is a This Époque building Belle with two floors and an £ d @ d ! Ostinatto Buenos Aires Hostel sign Hostel Aires Buenos Ostinatto • Paraguay 2385, Barrio 2385, Barrio • Paraguay • www. Norte • 4961-1192 hotedelprado-ba.com.ar • $ stairway, the Prado is a stairway, is a the Prado Inviting, good choice. cable clean rooms have and are ceiling fans, TV, WiFi-enabled; back Close rooms are quieter. and main to the subway bus routes. this hotel’s terrace today today terrace this hotel’s tops two floors of rooms, seven charming bathroom. with private ground floor rooms The a colonial patio. have General Index
1555 Malabia House 116 Attaque 77 59 Barrio Norte, Recoleta 647 77 architecture 34–5 & Around (cont.) 562 Nogaró Buenos Aires Armada 43 restaurants 71 113 Art Hotel 114 Basílica Nuestra Señora 725 Continental Hotel 112 Arte de Mafia 91 de la Merced 82 878 92 Artistas Jóvenes Benediction Chapel 10 Argentinos 84 Benedit Bis 68 Index A ASATEJ 102 Bereber 93 ATMs 108 Asociación Mutua Israelita Berni, Antonio 17, 23 A.Y. Not Dead 90 Argentina 33, 58 Bersuit Vergabarat 59 Abasto 64 Ateneo Grand Splendid 110 Biblioteca Nacional 34 Abraxas 110 Automóvil Club Argentina La Biela 10, 67, 70 Acabar 89, 92 35 Bigatti, Alfredo 40 accommodations Autoria 84 biking 105 B&Bs and guesthouses Avenida 9 de Julio 6, 14, Bike Tours 105 116 20–21, 65, 81 Bio 93 boutique hotels 114 Avenida Corrientes 66, 69 Blaqué 84 budget hotels and Avenida de Mayo 6, La Boca 26, 72 see also hostels 117 14–15, 64–5, 67 San Telmo and La Boca high-end and business Avis 104 Boca Juniors 73–4 hotels 113 Axel Hotel 112 La Bombonera 73, 75 luxury hotels 112 Azema Exotic Bistró 93 Bombonera Bombonella 69 mid-range hotels 115 book stores 110 tips 111 B Borges, Jorge Luis 33, 59, activities for children B&Bs and guesthouses 81, 85 60–61 116 Botero, Fernando 23 children’s shops 61 Baar Fun Fun 97, 99 Botica del Angel 27 traveling with kids 111 Banco de la Nación 9 La Bourgogne 57, 71 Aerolíneas Argentinas 104 Banco Hipotecario boutique hotels 114 Aeroparque Jorge Nacional 34 El Boyero 38 Newbury 96 El Banderín 70 Brasserie Petanque 56, 77 Ain, Casimiro 28 banking 108 La Brigada 54 Air France 104 bars and cafés British Airways 104 airlines 104 Barrio Norte, Recoleta Brown, William 11 airports 104 & Around 70 Brujas 91 Alitalia 104 Microcentro, Puerto budget hotels 117 alfajores 53 Madero & Retiro 85 budget tips 107 see also Alsina 49 outside Buenos Aires 99 free events AltoPalermo 39 Palermo 92 Buenos Aires Design 39 Alvear Palace Hotel 112 San Telmo 77 Buller Brewing Company American 104 Bar 6 57, 92 70 La Americana 57, 67 Bar Britanico 57 Buquebus 25, 95 Amerika 48 Bar Celta 70 buses 104–5 Amici Miei 77 Bar El Federal 57 local 104 Aniversario de la Bar El Taller 91 long-distance shuttle 104 Revolución de Mayo 42 Bar La Paz 69 business hotels 113 see also festivals Bar Plaza Dorrego 18, 57, Antigua Tasca de 70, 75, 77 C Cuchilleros 77 Bar Sur 75, 77 Cabaña Las Lilas 55, 85 Antiguas, Adolfo Martinez La Barra 98 El Cabildo 8, 42, 83 Armas 84 Barrio Histórico, Colonia 98 La Cabrera 54, 93 Antigüedades Antigüa 84 Barrio Norte 64 cabs see taxis antiques 110 Barrio Norte, Recoleta Cadore 69 Apertura de la Ópera 42 & Around 64–9 Caesar Park 112 see also festivals bars and cafés 70 cafés see bars and cafés Appetite 76 Recoleta stores 68 Café de los Angelitos 45
118 Café Iberia 14 Chiquilín 55 Crónica Bar 92 Café La Puerto Rico 8 Chiquín 27 La Cuadrada 99 Café Los 36 Billares 15 La Cholita 54 El Cuartito 71 Café Tortoni 15, 26, 57 churches cultural events 107 Caix 47 Basílica Nuestra Señora Cumaná 71 Calamaro, Andrés 59 de la Merced 82 La Cupertina 93 Index Calle Arroyo 20 Benediction Chapel 10 currency 103 see also La Calle de los Títeres 60 La Catedral 45 money Calle Florida 81, 83 Catedral Metropolitana custom limits 103 Calle Levalle 21 8, 83 cycling see biking El Callejón 97 Iglesia Matriz, Colonia 25 Cypress In 116 El Caminito 73, 75 Iglesia Nuestra Señora Campo Argentino de Polo de Belén 19 D 88 Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa 74 Dadá 85 Campo dei Fiori 71 El Centinela 95, 98 Dazzler Suites Arroyo 115 Canal 7 35 La Cigale 85 Dazzler Tower 113 La Cancha 77 cinema 43 The December Riots 33 Cantina Pierino 71 City Gate, Colonia 25 Deira, Ernesto 23 Capital Diseno y Objetos 90 Claridge 113 De Maria 68 car rental 104 Clásica y Moderna 57, 70 dental treatment 109 El Carnal 91 clubs see nightclubs Design Suites 113 Carnaval 42 see also El Club 99 El Desnivel 54 festivals Club 69 46, 48 dining 111 Carsson Hotel 115 Club Aráoz 47 Dirección Nacional de Casa Bolívar 116 Club Museum 46 Migraciones 103 Casa Cruz 57, 93 The Cocker 116 disabled travelers 102 Casa de la Cultura 15 Colonia del Sacramento, transport 105 La Casa de las Botas 90 Uruguay 7, 24–5, 95 Disquería Bird 110 Casa Jardín 117 Barrio Histórico 98 La Dorita 55 Casa Las Cañitas 114 Calle de los Suspiros 25 Dorrego-Ortíz Basualdo 11 Casa López 38 Casa Nacarello 25 driving 103 Casa Mínima 73, 75 El Faro and Convento de car rental 104 Calle de los Suspiros San Francisco 24 driver’s license 103 Colonia 25 Iglesia Matriz 25 rush hour 106 Casa Nacarello, Colonia 25 Museo Portugués 24 El Drugstore 24, 99 Casa Rosada 8, 15, 65 Playa Ferrando 25 Duhau Restaurante 56, 71 Casares, Adolfo Bioy 33 Plaza Mayor 24 dulche de leche 52 Casino Central 98 El Portón de Campo 25 Castelar Hotel & Spa 115 Rambla Costanera 25 E La Catedral 45 Real de San Carlos 25 Edificio Drabble 15 Catedral Metropolitana 8, Comedor Nikkai 77 Edificio la Inmobiliaria 14 83 Comme il Faut 27 El Faro and Convento de La Cayetana Historic communications 108 San Francisco Colonia 24 House 114 Confitería Colón 57 electricity 103 Celedonio 68 Confitería El Molino 34 emergency numbers 109 cell phones 108 see also Confitería Ideal 26 empanadas 52 phone rental consulates 109 Empire Thai 49 Cementerio de la Recoleta Copes, Juan Carlos 28 Escarlata 91 6, 10–11, 37, 65, 67 Correo Argentino 108 Espacio Ecléctico 76 Cementerio la Chacarita 27 Correo Central 69 Esplendor de Buenos Centro Cultural Borges 81 Cortázar, Julio 33 Aires 114 Centro Cultural Recoleta Costa Petit Hotel 114 Estación Constitutión 21 66, 69 craft stores 38–9 Estación Sur 39 Centro Cultural Torquato Creamfields 43 Estatua del Quijote 21 Tasso 44 credit cards 108 Eterna Cadencia 90 Che Lulu Trendy Hotel 116 crime 106 see also theft Eternautas 10, 105 Chemical Brothers 46 prevention Ex-Ministry of Public children’s shops 61 Crobar 47 Works 21
119 F Gibraltar 77 J Faena Hotel and Universe Gil Antigüedades 76 Jack The Ripper (bar) 70 112 Gimenez, Susana 58 Jangada 89, 93 Falklands War 33, 36, 81 GLAM 48 Jardín Botánico Carlos Farmacia de la Estrella 66 The Gotan Project 29 Thays 36 Fashion Buenos Aires 43 Gout Café 49 Jardín Japonés 87, 89 fax 108 Goya Hotel 117 Jardín Zoológico 61, 89 Felix 90 Goya y Lucientes, Joyería Isaac Katz 39 La Feria 98 Francisco José de 16 Joyería Paula Levy/Viviana Index Feria Internacional del Gran Bar Danzón 70 Carriquiry 38 Libro de Buenos Aires Gran Hotel Hispano 117 42, 88 Gran Hotel Orly 115 K Ferrer, Horacio 28 Green Bamboo 92 The Kavanagh 14, 34 ferries 104 Groove 43 Kelly’s 38 Festival Buenos Aires Gropius 90 KEY 97 Tango 42 guesthouses 116 Kika 47 Festival Internacional de Guevara Art Gallery 76 Kim y Novak 92 Cine Independiente 42 guided tours 105 Kosiuko 68 festivals 42–3 Guido Palace Hotel 115 Krista Hotel Boutique 114 FILO 83, 85 Kuitca, Guillermo 23 La Feria Mataderos 98 H Flavio Serrati Arte y HB Antigüedades 76 L Antigüedades 76 health 103, 109 L’Ago 76 Floralis Genérica 35 Hernández, José 33, 87 launderettes 107 Florida Garden 85 Hertz 104 leather goods 110 food 52–3 high-end hotels 113 Lezama 77 cheap eats 107 Hilton Buenos Aires 113 Library, Teatro Colón 13 parrillas 54–5 Hip Bar 85 Ligier 110 restaurants 56–7 history 32–3 El Living 47 Forner, Raquel 40 Home Hotel Buenos Lo de Charlie 99 The Four B&B 116 Aires 114 locro 53 Four Seasons Hotel 21, 112 hospitals 109 Los Fabulosos Cadillacs 59 French Embassy 20 hostels 117 Lufthansa 104 fugazzetta rellena 53 Hostel Inn Tango City 117 Lulu of London 68 Fundación Forner-Bigatti 40 Hotel Bel Air 115 Lugar Gay de Buenos Fundación Proa 73, 75 Hotel del Prado 117 Aires 116 Hotel Castelar 15 luxury hotels 112 G Hotel Chile 14, 67 Galería 5ta Avenida 39 Hotel Colón 115 M Galería Bond Street 39 Hotel de los Congresos 115 Las Madres de la Plaza de Galería Güemes 39, 83 Hotel Emperador 113 Mayo 9, 59 Galerías Pacífico 39, 81 Hotel Madero 112 magazines 102 galleries 76 Hotel Plaza Francia 115 mail 108 Gandhi Galerna 69 Hotel Varela 117 Maizani, Azucena 28 García, Charly 58 Mamá Jacinta 71 Gardel, Carlos 27, 28–9, I Manes, Pablo Curatella 22 32, 45, 58, 64, 67 Iberia 104 Mansión Alzaga Unzué 21 gay and lesbian travelers Iglesia Matriz, Colonia 25 Mansión Dandi Royal 27, 102 Iglesia Nuestra Señora de 114 Axel Hotel 112 Belén 19 Manuel Tienda León 104 gay clubs and hangouts Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa 74 Manzana de las Luces 67 48–9 Intercontinental Buenos Mar del Plata 95 Lugar Gay de Buenos Aires 113 Casino Central 98 Aires 116 internet 108 Playa Bristol 95 Marcha del Orgullo Gay Isla Martín García 97 Maradona, Diego 33, 58, 43 Presidential residences 73, 74 Pride Travel 103 98 Marcha de Orgullo Gay 43 Genoma 92 Israeli Embassy 33, 83 María Cher 90
120 María Vásquez 68 Museo Casa de Ricardo museums (cont.) Marriot Plaza Hotel 112 Rojas 40 Museo de Arte Popular Mataderos 97 Museo de Arte José Hernández 21, 33, Martínez, Tomás Eloy 33 Hispanoamericano Isaac 87 maté 38, 53 Fernández Blanco Museo de Artes Martín, José de San 32, 21 Plásticas Eduardo Sívori Index 81 Museo de Arte 41 May Revolution 32, 40, 42 Latinoamericano de Museo de la Ciudad 66 medical clinics see Buenos Aires (MALBA) Museo de la Deuda hospitals 7, 22–3, 87, 89 Externa 41 Meliá Recoleta Plaza 114 Museo de Artes Plásticas Museo de la Inmigración Menem, Carlos 58 Eduardo Sívori 41 40 Mendoza, Pedro do 32 Museo de Arte Popular Museo de la Pasión Mercado del San Telmo 75 José Hernández 21, 33, Boquense 74 Mesón de la Plaza, El 99 87 Museo de los Niños 61 Mi Vaca y Yo 99 Museo del Cine 41 Museo del Cine 41 Microcentro 80 Museo de la Ciudad 66 Museo Evita 87, 89 Microcentro, Puerto Museo de la Deuda Museo Fortabat 40 Madero & Retiro 80–83 Externa 41 Museo Fragata bars 85 Museo de la Pasión Sarmiento 41 restaurants 85 Boquense 74 Museo Histórico de stores 84 Museo de los Niños 61 Cera 40 mid-range hotels 115 Museo Evita 87, 89 Museo Historico Milhouse 117 Museo Fortabat 40 Nacional 74 see also Milión 70 Museo Fragata Sarmiento Parque Lezama Millai Sumaj 84 41 Museo Mitre 37, 82 milongas see tango clubs Museo Histórico de Cera Museo Nacional de and milongas 40 Bellas Artes 6, 16–17, 65 Ministerio de Economía 9 Museo Historico Nacional Museo Portugués, Mint 46 74 see also Parque Colonia 24 Míro, Joan 65, 81 Lezama Museo Xul Solar 88 Mission 38 Museo de la Inmigración Palacio de las Aguas Mitra 76 40 Corrientes 34 Mitre, Bartólome 37, 82 Museo Mitre 37, 82 El Zanjón 41, 75 mobile phones see cell Museo Nacional de Bellas music 110 phones Artes 6, 16–17, 65 Musimundo 111 Modena Design 16 Museo Portugués, Colonia Molina, Juana 59 24 N money 103 Museo Xul Solar 88 La Nacion 37 bank transfers 108 museums 40–41 La Nacional 26 currency 103 Botica del Angel 27 Nacional Congreso 14 currency exchange 108 Fundación Forner-Bigatti Nectarine 57, 71 traveler’s checks 108 40 newspapers 102 Monserrat 64 Museo Argentino de NH City and Tower 113 Montevideo 95, 98 Ciencias Naturales 60 nightclubs 46–7 Ciudad Vieja 95, 98 Museo Argentino del Niño Bien 44 Plaza Independencia 95, Títere 60 noche de los museos 98 Museo Casa Carlos (gallery nights) 107 Monument to General Gardel 67 Notorious 70 Manuel Belgrano 9, 82 Museo Casa de Ricardo Nuevo Salón la Argentina Moreno 376 114 Rojas 40 45 Mundo Bizarro 92 Museo de Arte Museo Argentino de Hispanoamericano Isaac O Ciencias Naturales 60 Fernández Blanco 21 El Obelisco 20, 81, 83 Museo Argentino del Museo de Arte El Obrero 54 Títere 60 Latinoamericano de Ocampo, Victoria 33 Museo Casa Carlos Gardel Buenos Aires (MALBA) Olsen 56, 93 67 7, 22–3, 87, 89 Ona Sáez 68
121 Once 64 Pestana Buenos Aires 113 Pride Travel 102 Opera Pampa 35, 39, 88 Petite Colón Confitería 12, The Prodigy 43 Opción Sur 105 21, 57 provoleta 52 Ostinatto Buenos Aires phone rental 108 public holidays 102 Hostel 117 Piazzolla, Astor 28, 44 Puente de la Mujer 82 La Otra Orilla 116 Piazzolla Tango 27 Puente Nicolas Avellaneda Oui Oui 56 picnics 107 75 outside Buenos Aires 94–8 Pilar Church 11 Puente Transbordador 74 bars 99 Pinamar 96, 98 Puerto Madero 24, 40, 58, Index restaurants 99 Píramide de Mayo 9 80 Oxiro 91 El Planetario Galileo Galilei Pugliese, Osvaldo 28 60, 89 Puig, Manuel 33 P Plata Lappas 38 Punta del Este 96 Pabellón IV 91 Plata Nativa 84 Puro Diseño 68 Pachá 46 Playa Ferrando Colonia 25 Páez, Fito 59 plazas and green spaces Q Palacio Barolo 14, 34, 67 36–7 El Querandí 44 Palacio de Justicia 36 Jardín Japonés 87, 89 Quirós, Cesáeo Bernaldo Palacio de las Aguas Parque 3 de Febrero 61, de 17 Corrientes 34 106 QRV – Transportes Palacio del Congreso 65 Parque de la Costa 61 Especiales 105 Palacio Vera 15 Parque Las Heras 37 Palermo 86–9, 91 Parque Lezama 74 R bars 92 Parque Rodo 97 Rambla Costanera, restaurants 93 Plaza de los Dos Colonia 25 shopping 90 Congresos 14 Ramos Generales 39 Palermo Chico 86 Plaza de Mayo 6, 8–9, Real de San Carlos, Palermo Viejo 86 32, 64, 67, 81, 83 Colonia 25 Pampa Picante 91 Plaza Dorrego 74 Recoleta 64, 68 Palermo Soho Hostel 117 Plaza Embajada de Israel Recoleta Monastry 66 Pantheon of Outstanding 33, 83 Rembrandt 16 Citizens 11 Plaza Francia 37 remise (mini-cabs) 104–5 Parrillada 52 Plaza Independencia 98 La Renga 59 parrillas (steakhouses) 54–5 Plaza Julio Cortazar República de Acá 91 Park Hyatt Buenos Aires 37–8, 89 Reserva Ecológica 112 Plaza Lavalle 36 Costanera Sur 82–3 parks and gardens see Plaza Mayor Colonia 24 restaurants 56–7 plazas and green spaces Plaza Mitre 37 Barrio Norte, Recoleta & Parque 3 de Febrero 61, Plaza Rodríguez Peña 36 Around 71 106 Plaza San Martín 36, 81, dining tips 111 Parque de la Costa 61 83 Microcentro, Puerto Parque Las Heras 37 Plaza Serrano see Plaza Madero & Retiro 85 Parque Lezama 74 Julio Cortazar outside Buenos Aires 99 Parque Rodo 97 Plaza Vicente López 36 Palermo 93 Parrilla Lezama 75 Plazoleta Carlos San Telmo 77 Paseo Alcorta 39 Pellegrini 37 Restó 71 La Pasionaria 90 Plazoleta Cataluna 21 Retiro 65, 80 passports 103 Podestá Super Club de Rey, Patricio 59 Patagonia Sur 56, 77 Copas 46 Rigoletto Curioso 69 El Patio 85 police 109 Rio de la Plata 24 Patio Bullrich 39 polo 88 River Delta boat rides 60 Paz, José C. 11, 65 Polo Club 84 Rivera, Diego 73 Pellegrini, Carlos 11, 37 El Portón de Campo, The Roxy 46 Perón, Eva Maria Duarte Colonia 25 Rúa de la Fernando 33 de 32, 58, 65, 87 Posada de la Luna 116 Rubens 16 family vault 10 La Prensa 11 La Rural see Sociedad La Perón, Juan Domingo 28, Presidential residences 98 Rural 32, 58 Pride Café 49, 57 rush hour 106
122 S sorrentinos 52 travelers (cont.) Sabater Hnos. Fabrica de Soul Café 92 gay and lesbian travelers Jabones 90 souvenirs 110 102 Sábato, Ernesto 33 Spell Café 91 student travelers 102 Sabot 55, 85 Status 71 women travelers 109 sales taxes 110 steakhouses see parrillas traveler’s checks 108 Index Salón Canning 45 student travelers 102 traveling with kids 111 Salön Muaré 90 subway 105 Tren de la Costa 60, 96 San Antonio de Areco 96 Sunday Antiques Market Tribeca 85 Centro Historico 98 18, 74, 110 Troilo, Aníbal 28 Día de la Tradición 96 El Túnel 15 Plaza Ruiz de Arellano 96 T San Telmo 7, 18–19, 41, Tandil 95 U 44, 70, 72 tango 7, 26–7, 32, 42, 64 United 104 San Telmo and La Boca Festival Buenos Aires 72–5 Tango 42 V bars 77 tango artists 28–9 Varela, Adriana 44 galleries 76 Tango Brujo 84 Vasalissa 68 restaurants 77 tango clubs and El Ventanal 15 shopping 76 milongas 44–5 Vicente 99 Santaolalla, Gustavo 59 Tangol 105 Videla, Jorge Rafael 59 Sarmiento, Domingo Tanguería El Beso 44 El Viejo Almacén 44 Faustino 10, 33, 41 Tante 99 visas 103 Saura, Carlos 29 taxes and refunds 110 La Vitrina 39 Se Dice de Mí 84 taxis 104–5, 106, 109 V&S Hostel 117 security 109 radio taxis 104 theft prevention 109 remise 104–5 W Segui, Antonio 17, 23 Teatro Avenida 15 Waldorf Hotel 115 The Shamrock 70 Teatro Colón 6, 12–13, 20, walking 105 Sheraton Buenos Aires 36, 42, 66 Walrus Books 110 Hotel and Convention Teatro Gran Rex 69 water 109 Center 113 Teatro La Metropolitan weather 103, 106 shopping 110 69 Western Union 108 book stores 110 Teatro San Martín 69 Wine 53 children’s shops 61 telephone 108 Winery 20 craft stores 38–9 phone rentals 108 women travelers 109 Microcentro, Puerto Templo Libertad 36 World Cup victory 33 Madero & Retiro 84 La Terraza 99 Wussmann 76 Mercado de las Pulgas Terroir 110 110 theft prevention 109 Z Palermo 90 Tiempo de Gitanos Bar y El Zanjón 41, 75 Recoleta 68 Fonda 92 Zavdarie Doc 93 San Telmo 76 Tigre 61, 96 Zival’s 27 shopping centers 39 The Tigre Club 98 ZOOM 48 Sunday Antiques Market time zone 103 Zum Edelweiss 69 18, 74, 110 Timerman, Jacobo 33 tips 110 Titanic Club 48 Silvia Petroccia 76 Tomo 1 57, 85 Sin Rumbo 45 Torcuato de Alvear 15, 58–9 Sitges 48 tourist information desks soccer 33, 40, 47, 58, 102 73–4 trains 105 World Cup victory 33 trams 105 Sociedad La Rural 35 Tramando 68 Soda Stereo 59 transport 104–5 Sofitel Buenos Aires 112 El Trapiche 54, 93 Solar, Xul 22 travelers Solo Tango 27 disabled travelers 102
123 Acknowledgments
The Authors Photographer Declan McGarvey visited Demetrio Carrasco Argentina in 1999 and decided to Fact Checker stay after falling in love with the Ariel Waisman country. Nine presidents later, he remains in Buenos Aires, where Senior Cartographer he works as a travel writer and Suresh Kumar editor. He contributed to the Cartographer Eyewitness Guide to Argentina, Schchida Nand Pradhan has collaborated on and edited several Time Out guides to Declan McGarvey would like to Patagonia and Buenos Aires, and thank Colin Barraclough, Lucas at has contributed to DK’s Where to Eternautas, and most of all Virginia Acknowledgments Go When series. Maccallini for their invaluable help during the writing of this book. He Jonathan Schultz previously co- would also like to say a huge authored DK titles Eyewitness Top thank you to Sadie Smith at DK 10 Boston and RealCity New York. London and the staff at Quadrum His love for Buenos Aires, first Solutions, Mumbai, India for their kindled on a college exchange unflagging support and patience. program, was reignited after an eight-year absence, compelling Picture Credits him to pick up roots and live there t-top, tl-top left; tlc-top left center; again in 2007. Dulce de leche and tc-top center; tr-top right; cla- asados feature weekly in his center left above; ca-center above; porteño diet. cra-center right above; cl-center left; c-center; cr-center right; clb- Publisher center left below; cb-center Douglas Amrine below; crb-center right below; bl- List Manager bottom left, b-bottom; bc-bottom Christine Stroyan center; bcl-bottom center left; br- bottom right; d-detail. Managing Art Editor Mabel Chan Works of art have been Senior Editor reproduced with the kind Sadie Smith permission of the following Senior Designer copyright holders: Manifestacion Paul Jackson (1934) Antonio Berni, Courtesy of Jose Berni 23cb; Siste últimas Senior Cartographic Editor canciones (1986) Guillermo Kuitca, Casper Morris Courtesy of Sperone Westwater DTP Operator Art Gallery, New York 23cr; The Natasha Lu Butcher and Don Juan Sandoval, the Boss Cesáreo Bernaldo de Production Controller Louise Minihane Quirós, in cooperation with the
124 artist’s grandson, Mario C. Stadler 64tr. Bernaldo de Quirós 17cr; Pareja FOTOSCOPIO LATIN AMERICA
(1923) Xul Solar, reserved rights by STOCK PHOTO AGENCY: 26cb, Acknowledgments Foundation Pan Klub – Xul Solar 48tl, 48tr, 49tr. Museum 22bc ; Drago Xul Solar, reserved rights by Foundation Pan LATINPHOTO: 43tl, 10–11c. Klub – Xul Solar Museum 89tl. MALBA – FUNDACION CONSTANTINI, BUENOS AIRES, The Publisher would like to ARGENTINA: 22bc, 22cl, 23cr, thank the following individuals, 23cb. companies and picture libraries for their kind permissions to PETER & JACKIE MAIN: 13tl. reproduce their photographs: ODYSSEY PRODUCTIONS, INC: Courtesy of ACABAR: 92tr. Robert Frerck 13clb.
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125 Phrase Book
The variant of Spanish spoken in Argentina is entrance entrada entrada known as rioplatense. “Ll” and “y” are both exit salida saleeda pronounced like the English “sh” as in “she.” right derecha dairecha The “s” sound can become like an “h” when it left izquierda eesk-yairda occurs before another consonant or at the straight on (todo) recto (todo) rrekto end of a word as in “tres” – “treh”; it may be quickly pronto pronto bathroom baño ban-yo omitted altogether, as in “dos” – “do”. As in women mujeres moohaires other Latin American countries, “c” and “z” are men hombres ombres pronounced as “s.” toilet paper papel higiénico papel eeh- yeneeko In an Emergency batteries pilas peelas Help! ¡Socorro! sokorro passport pasaporte pasaporteh Stop! ¡Pare! pareh visa visa beesa Call a doctor! ¡Llamen un shamen oon tourist card tarjeta turistica tarheta
Phrase Book médico! medeeko tooreesteeka Call an ¡Llamen a una shamen a oona bar boliche boleecheh ambulance ambulancia amboolans-ya money guita geeta Police! ¡Policía! poleesee-a to eat morfar morfar Where is the ¿Dónde queda dondeh keda el driver’s license registro reheestro nearest el hospital más ospeetal mas Health hospital? cercano? sairkano I don’t feel well Me siento mal meh s-yento mal Could you help ¿Me puede meh pwedeh a- I have a Me duele meh dweleh me? ayudar? shoodar stomach ache el estómago el estomago Communication Essentials headache la cabeza la kabesa Yes Sí see He/she is ill Está enfermo/a esta enfairmo/a No No no I need to rest Necesito neseseeto Please Por favor por fabor decansar deskansar Pardon me pairdoneh Perdone Post Offices and Banks Excuse me Disculpe deeskoolpeh I’m looking for a Busco una boosko oona I’m sorry Lo siento lo s-yento Bureau de casa de cambio kasa deh Thanks Gracias gras-yas change kamb-yo Hello! ¡Buenas! bwenas What is the ¿A cómo está el a komo esta el Good day Buenos días bwenos dee-as dollar rate? dolar? dolar Good afternoon Buenas tardes bwenas tardes I want to send Quiero enviar k-yairo emb-yar Good evening Buenas noches bwenas noches a letter una carta oona karta Night Noche nocheh stamp estampilla estampee-sha Morning Mañana man-yana to draw out sacar dinero sakar deenairo Tomorrow Mañana man-yana money Yesterday Ayer a-shair Here Acá aka Shopping How? ¿Cómo? komo I would like/ Me gustaría/ meh goostaree- When? ¿Cuándo? kwando want... quiero... a/k-yairo Where? ¿Dónde? dondeh Do you have ¿Tiene...? t-yeneh Why? ¿Por qué? por keh any...? Fine! ¡Qué bien! keh b-yen expensive caro karo How much is it? ¿Cuánto cuesta? kwanto kwesta Useful Phrases What time do ¿A qué hora a ke ora abreh/ How are you? ¿Qué tal?/ keh tal/komo ba you open/close? abre/ cierra? s-yairra ¿Cómo va? May I pay with a ¿Puedo pagar pwedo pagar kon Pleased to meet Encantado/ enkantado/ credit card? con tarjeta de tarheta deh you mucho gusto moocho goosto crédito? kredeeto Do you speak ¿Habla un poco abla oon poko a little English? de inglés? deh eengles Sightseeing I don’t No entiendo no ent-yendo road carretera karretaira understand street calle, callejón ka-sheh, ka- Could you speak ¿Puede hablar pwedeh ablar shehon more slowly? más despacio? mas despas-yo tourist bureau oficina de ofeeseena deh How do I get to/ ¿Cómo se llega komo se shega turismo tooreesmo which way to..? a...?/¿Por dónde a/ por dondeh town hall municipalidad mooneesee- se va a...? seh ba a paleedad
Useful Words Getting Around large grande grandeh When does ¿A qué a keh ora saleh small pequeño peken-yo it leave? hora sale? good bueno bweno When does the ¿A qué hora a keh ora saleh bad malo malo next train/bus sale el el prokseemo open abierto ab-yairto leave for...? próximo tren/ tren/owtoboos a closed cerrado serrado autobús a...? 126 customs aduana adwana chimichurri cheemeechoorree hot sauce Could you call ¿Me puede meh pwedeh centolla sentosha spider crab a taxi for me? llamar shamar oon bife de lomo beefeh deh lomo char-grilled fillet un taxi? taksee steak port of puerta de pwairta deh mollejas moshehas sweetbreads embarkation embarque embarkeh arroz arros rice boarding pass tarjeta de tarheta deh atún atoon tuna embarque embarkeh azúcar asookar sugar Phrase Book car hire alquiler de autos alkeelair deh bacalao bakala-o cod owtos camarones kamarones prawns bicycle bicicleta beeseekleta carne karneh meat rate tarifa tareefa chip cheep bread roll insurance seguro segooro huevo webo egg petrol station estación de nafta estas-yon deh jugo hoogo fruit juice nafta langosta langosta lobster I have a flat tyre Se me pinchó seh meh leche lecheh milk una goma oona goma mantequilla mantekee-sha butter marisco mareesko seafood Staying in a Hotel pan pan bread I have a Tengo una engo oona papas papas potatoes reservation reserva rresairba pescado peskado fish Are there any ¿Tiene yones pollo po-sho chicken rooms postre postreh dessert available? habitaciones deesponeebles potaje potaheh soup disponibles? sal sal salt single/double habitación abeetas-yon salsa salsa sauce room sencilla/ sensee-sha/ sopa sopa soup doble dobleh té teh tea twin room habitación con abeetas-yon kon camas gemelas kamas hemelas Time shower ducha doocha minute minuto meenooto bath bañadera ban-yadaira hour hora ora I want to be Necesito que me neseseeto keh half-hour media hora med-ya ora woken up at... despierten meh desp-yairten Monday lunes loones a las... a las Tuesday martes martes water fría Wednesday miércoles m-yairkoles soap jabón habon Thursday jueves hwebes towel toalla to-a-sha Friday viernes b-yairnes key llave shabeh Saturday sábado sabado Sunday domingo domeengo Eating Out I am a Numbers vegetarian Soy vegetariano soy behetar-yano 0 cero sairo fixed price precio fijo pres-yo feeho 1 uno oono glass vaso baso 2 dos dos cutlery cubiertos koob-yairtos 3 tres tres Can I see the ¿Me deja ver me deha ber el 4 cuatro kwatro menu, please? el menú, menoo por fabor 5 cinco seenko por favor? 6 seis says The bill, please la cuenta, por la kwenta por 7 siete s-yeteh favor fabor 8 ocho ocho I would like Quiero un poco k-yairo oon poko 9 nueve nwebeh some water de agua deh agwa 10 diez d-yes breakfast desayuno desa-shoono 11 once onseh lunch almuerzo almwairso 12 doce doseh dinner comida komeeda 13 trece treseh 14 catorce katorseh Menu Decoder 15 quince keenseh bife de beefeh deh char-grilled 16 dieciséis d-yeseesays chorizo choreeso sirloin steak with 17 diecisiete d-yesees-yeteh a caballo a kabasho two fried eggs 18 dieciocho d-yes-yocho on top 19 diecinueve d-yeseenwebeh choripán choreepan pork sausage 20 veinte baynteh sandwich 30 treinta traynta churrasco a choorrasko a char-grilled rump 40 cuarenta kwarenta caballo kabasho steak with two 50 cincuenta seenkwenta fried eggs on top 60 sesenta sesenta torta de torta deh yellow sweet 70 setenta setenta humita oomeeta pumpkin and 80 ochenta ochenta sweet corn mixed 90 noventa nobenta with cheese, 100 cien s-yen onion, and red 500 quinientos keen-yentos pepper 1000 mil meel 127 Selected Street Index
9 de Julio, Avenida E2 Gallo, Calle M4 Palermo Viejo, Plaza K3 25 de Mayo, Calle F1 Gascón, Calle K4 Palos, Calle G5 Acuña de Figueroa, Calle K4 General Juan D. Perón, Calle D1 Paraguay, Calle Q5 Adolfo Alsina, Calle E2 General L. Mansilla, Calle L4 Paraná, Calle P5 Agote, Calle N3 General Las Heras, Avenida N3 Pasco, Calle C2 Agüero, Calle L5 General Lavalle, Plaza P5 Paseo Colón, Avenida F2 Agustín Pedro Justo, Plaza G2 General Páez, Plaza L2 Paso, Calle C1 Alberti, Calle C2 Godoy Cruz, Calle K3 Pasteur, Calle C1 Alemania, Plaza M2 Gorriti, Calle K4 Patricias Argentinas, Avenida J6 Alicia Moreau de Justo, Grand Bourg, Plaza N3 Patricios, Avenida F5 Avenida G2 Guatemala, Calle K3 Pedro de Mendoza, Avenida H6 Almirante Brown, Avenida G5 Güemes, Calle L3 Pellegrini, Calle E1 Alvear, Avenida P4 Güemes, Plaza L4 Perú, Calle F2 Anchorena, Calle M4 Guido, Calle P4 Pichincha, Calle C2 Andres Berro, Avenida M2 Gurruchaga, Calle K3 Antartida Argentina, Avenida R5 Gutierrez, Calle L2 Piedras, Calle E3 Aráoz, Calle K4 Haedo, Calle P3 Pinzón, Calle G5 Posadas, Calle P4 Street Index Arenales, Calle N5 Hernandanas, Calle F6 Argentina, Plaza Q4 Hipolito Yrigoyen, Calle D2 Presidente Figueroa Aristóbulo del Valle, Calle G5 Honduras, Calle K4 Alcorta, Avenida N3 Armenia, Calle K3 Humberto 1º, Calle E3 Presidente Luis Sáenz Austria, Calle M4 Independencia, Avenida F3 Peña, Calle D2 Ayacucho, Calle D1 Infanta Isabel, Avenida L1 Presidente Quintana, Calle P4 Azcuénaga, Calle C1 Ing. Huergo, Avenida G2 Presidente Ramón S. Azopardo, Calle G3 Intendente Bullrich, Avenida K2 Castillo, Avenida Q3 Balcarce, Calle F2 Intendente Seeber, Plaza L2 Pueyrredón, Avenida N4 Bartolomé Mitre, Calle D1 Irala, Calle F5 Reconquista, Calle F1 Belgrano, Avenida F2 Iraola, Avenida L1 República Árabe Siria, Calle L2 Bernardo de Irigoyen, Calle E3 Islas Maldivas, Plaza G4 República de Chile, Plaza N3 Billinghurst, Calle M3 Italia, Plaza L2 República de la India, Calle L2 Bolívar, Calle F2 Jean Jaures, Calle M6 República, Plaza de la E1 Bonpland, Calle J2 Jeronimo Salguero, Calle L5 Rincón, Calle C2 Boulogne Sur Mer, Calle M5 Jorge Luis Borges, Calle K3 Riobamba, Calle N6 Brandsen, Calle G6 Jose Antonio Cabrera, Calle K4 Rivadavia, Avenida C1 Brasil, Avenida F4 José E. Uriburu, Calle C1 Rodríguez Peña, Calle D1 Bulnes, Calle M3 Juan B. Justo, Avenida K2 Rodríguez Peña, Plaza N5 Cabello, Calle M3 Juan de Garay, Avenida F4 Roma, Plaza R6 Cafferata, Calle H6 Juan M. Blanes, Calle G5 Roque Sáenz Peña, Avenida E1 Callao, Avenida D1 Juana Manso, Calle G1 Rosales, Avenida G1 Caminito, Calle G6 Jujuy, Avenida B3 Rosario Vera Peñaloza, Canada, Plaza Q4 Julián Alvarez, Calle L4 Boulevard G3 Carlos Calvo, Calle E3 Julio A. Roca, Avenida F2 Carlos Pellegrini, Plazoleta P4 Juncal, Calle N4 Russel, Calle K3 Caseros, Avenida D5 Junín, Calle C1 Saavedra, Calle C2 Castelli, Calle C1 La Rábida, Avenida G2 Salguero, Calle N2 Castex, Calle M2 Lafinur, Calle L2 Salta, Calle E2 Cavia, Calle M2 Lamadrid, Calle G6 San José, Calle D2 Cecilia Gnerson, Boulevard R5 Laprida, Calle M4 San Juan, Avenida E3 Cerrito, Calle E1 Larrea, Calle C1 San Martín, Calle Q6 Cerviño, Avenida K2 Lavalle, Calle Q6 San Martín de Tours, Calle M2 Chacabuco, Calle F3 Lavalleja, Calle J5 San Martín, Plaza Q5 Charcas, Calle M4 Leandro N. Alem, Avenida Q5 Sanchez de Bustamante, Chile, Calle D3 Lector, Plaza del N3 Calle M4 Cochabamba, Calle E4 Libertad, Calle E1 Santa Fe, Avenida N5 Colombia, Avenida L2 Libertad, Plaza P5 Santa Rosa, Calle K3 Combate de los Pozos, Calle D2 Libertador, Avenida del N3 Santiago del Estero, Calle E3 Congreso, Plaza del D2 Lima, Calle E2 Sarandí, Calle D1 Constitución, Calle D4 Macacha Guemes, Boulevard G1 Sarmiento, Avenida L2 Constitución, Plaza E4 Maipú, Calle F1 Sarmiento, Calle Q6 Copérnico, Calle N3 Malabia, Calle K3 Scalabrini Ortiz, Avenida L3 Córdoba, Avenida P5 Mansilla, Calle M5 Serrano, Calle J4 Coronel Díaz, Avenida M3 Manuela Gorriti, Calle G2 Sicilia, Plaza L2 Correo, Plaza de R6 Marcelo T. de Alvear, Calle Q5 Soler, Calle L4 Corrientes, Avenida E1 Mario Bravo, Calle L5 Solís, Calle D2 Cortázar, Plaza Martín García, Avenida F5 Suárez, Calle F6 (Plaza Serrano) K3 Martín Rodríguez, Calle G6 Suipacha, Calle E1 Costa Rica, Calle K3 Matheu, Calle C2 Tacuarí, Calle E2 D’Espósito, Calle G4 Mayo, Avenida de E2 Talcahuano, Calle E1 Defensa, Calle F2 Mayo, Plaza de F1 Dorrego, Avenida J2 Medicina, Plaza de N5 Thames, Calle K3 Dorrego, Plaza F3 Medrano, Avenida K5 Tucumán, Calle Q6 Eduardo Madero, Avenida G1 Mexico, Calle F2 Uriarte, Calle K3 El Salvador, Calle K4 Miserere, Plaza B1 Uruguay, Calle E1 Entre Ríos, Avenida D2 Misiones, Calle C2 Valentin Gomez, Calle L6 Esmeralda, Calle F1 Montevideo, Calle D1 Valle Iberlucea, Calle del G6 Estado de Israel, Avenida K5 Moreno, Calle E2 Venezuela, Calle F2 Estados Unidos, Calle F3 Naciones Unidas, Plaza N3 Viamonte, Calle P5 Florida, Calle Q5 Nicaragua, Calle K3 Vicente Lopez, Calle N4 Fray Justo Santa Olavarría, Calle G6 Vicente Lopez, Plaza P4 Maria de Oro, Calle K3 Pacheco de Melo, Calle N4 Virrey Y. Cevallos, Calle D2 French, Calle M4 Pagano, Calle N3 Vittoria, Calle N3
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