Smaller is Better in

Anilao— Shooting Macro in the Text and photos by Kate Jonker

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Pygmy seahorse, no more than 5mm long, at Sunview dive site My dive guide finned quickly down the sandy slope and I kicked hard to keep up with him, my heavy camera and strobes creat- ing quite a drag, slowing me down. By the time I reached the sea fan, in front of which he had stopped, I felt a thrill of excitement. I knew what he had found! Peering through my viewfinder and trying to stay calm, I followed his pointer downwards, and right there, at its tip, was my first ever pygmy seahorse. It was tiny—much smaller than I had expected—but this was Anilao, and I was starting to real- ise that “smaller is better” in this marine-diverse diving destination.

I had reached a stage in my under- photography. I did my research and water photography journey in which was hooked. Within a month, I was on I wanted to do more than just take my way, accompanied by my husband photos—I wanted to create works of and two diving friends who were non- art! I had chatted to friends who recom- photographers. mended a photo academy in Anilao in the Philippines that would revolutionise Getting there Tryon’s hypselodoris nudibranchs, somewhat Huge yellow soft adorn the steep walls at Ligpo Island. PREVIOUS PAGE: the way I thought about underwater After a 23-hour flight from Cape Town, larger than many of the other nudibranchs I A hairy squat lobster rests in the folds of a pink barrel sponge at Koala. came across—these were 5cm in length.

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Colourful local homes line the water’s edge (above); The most common type of in Anilao is the bangka (above).

we arrived in —capital city of orange, to red to purple. We were in I need not have worried at all, as the Philippines—and were soon head- paradise! our cameras were treated like royal ing down the highway to Anilao. I babies. They were carried carefully to was amazed at how busy and con- Diving the boat by the staff, who then put gested the roads were. Everyone Early the following morning, we excit- them on a special rubberised mat in seemed to be driving something, edly boarded our boat for a day the most stable and shaded part of Explore Gordon’s Bay whether it be a car, a motor bike, a of diving. In the Philippines, diving is the boat and then covered with tow- motorbike-come-taxi or a jeepney, done from bangkas. These are long, els for protection. Cape Town - South Africa which is the Philippines version of a narrow wooden vessels with two sup- Once on board, we posed for the bus that the Filipinos seem to love port floats made from thick bamboo obligatory “selfies” before whisking decorating—the more flamboyant, poles on either side of the main hull. across the mirror flat, indigo water the better. They are usually motored by recondi- to our first dive spot. We hugged the We eventually arrived at our des- tioned truck engines. coastline, passing vibrantly-painted tination. Anilao Photo Academy (or Our gear had already been put yellow, purple, red and green homes APA, as it is fondly known), is the safely on board, along with enough and large resorts, interspersed by brainchild of renowned underwater cylinders for three dives and our steeply sloping, lush, tree-covered photographer Tim Ho. Run by a team food and drink for the day. To climb hills that reached right down to the of incredibly talented underwater on board, you simply walked a few waters’ edge. photographers and dive guides, APA metres across the beach and up a is widely recognised as the place to gangplank. For those (like myself) Koala. Our first dive was at Koala, go to for , with a poor sense of balance, there is named after an Australian who and caters for photographers of all always a helping hand to make sure had had a house on the shoreline Dive Charters, Guided Dives, Gear Rental levels and camera types. you climb aboard safely. nearby. The bangka crew dropped Scuba & Photography Courses Once unpacked, we set up our Before the trip, I had been con- anchor, and we kitted up and rolled cameras and watched as the sun cerned about how I was going to backwards into the clear, warm www.indigoscuba.com [email protected] set over the ocean, changing from protect my camera on the boat. blue ocean. The crew then gently Colourful at Ligpo Island

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Coleman shrimps on fire urchin at Basura (top left); Red hairy shrimp, about 2mm in length, at Secret Bay (above)

Most dive sites in Anilao how tiny the critters were. At home were minuscule and I was very comprise shallow gar- in Cape Town, our nudibranchs glad I had purchased a +12.5 dens with sandy slopes inter- average 3cm to 5cm. Here, the magnifying dioptre for my cam- spersed with coral outcrops, dive guides were constantly era before the trip, as this helped rubble-covered slopes, or searching for smaller and smaller to photograph even the tiniest of gently sloping sandy bot- critters for us to photograph. Most creatures. toms. The bangkas anchor shallow and close to the shore and after entering the water, we would usually swim down to the deep- est part of the dive site and then slowly make our way shallower. I followed Ivan down the reef, and before long, he was beckoning me over passed our cameras down to us. to a small green plant, where he There were just the four of us on pointed to something so tiny it the bangka, accompanied by was not visible to the naked eye. two dive guides: Ivan, who is an Peering through my camera’s accomplished underwater pho- viewfinder, I saw a tiny creature tographer and amazing spotter that looked like a two-millimetre- (and soon became my buddy on long praying mantis and realised it the trip); and Doods, who was also was a skeleton shrimp! an eagle-eyed spotter. Before long, I began to realise This tiny pink eyed goby was 5mm in length (above); Flabellina nudibranch at Sunview dive site (left)

39 X-RAY MAG : 85 : 2018 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO Red hairy shrimp, about 3mm in length at Gazer Mike Ball Dive (left); Anemonefish travel at Twin Rocks (far EXPEDITIONS • CORAL SEA • • AUSTRALIA left) Expeditions On the Wild Side

loved it and I The Best Diving on the was hooked! Coral Sea & Great Barrier Reef! Sadly, all too Dive with giant potato cod, explore deep walls, soon, we had witness shark action at . to return to the boat. It was lunch time, and we had the most delicious hot lunch awaiting us. Rice, veg- etables, beef was doing this, saw that the nudibranch was in spicy sauce and more fruit. After eating lifting its mantle up and down. Every time it heartily, chatting eagerly about our amazing did this, Ivan would say “click” loudly and I muck dive and laughing some more about would press the shutter. With much laughter, “Marilyn Monroe,” we rested impatiently we soon got into the swing of things and I before our third and final dive of the day. got one of my favourite photos ever. I call it the Marilyn Monroe nudibranch. After that, Basura. Our third dive was at Basura, a the critters just kept on coming. I was abso- sloping sandy site littered with coral bom- lutely blown away—this was the famous mies and rubble. We were getting into the After our first dive, we surfaced at the I had heard so much about. I swing of things now. Our dive guides would boat, handed cameras and fins up to the Minke Whale Season! June-July crew and climbed up a sturdy wooden lad- Unique Opportunity on the Great Barrier Reef. der back on to the boat. Once on board, www.mikeball.com/minke we were offered fruit and crackers, water, coffee, tea and ginger tea. We then relaxed in the sun and chatted excitedly about what we had seen. New Special Expeditions! Check out our website for details. Dakeda. After staring longingly into the clear blue water at the shallow reef below us, our surface interval was finally over and we moved on to Dakeda. Here, we were met with completely different underwater topog- raphy—a rubble slope. There were just dark brown boulders everywhere. No coral, no reef, no sand. No life! Had the recent earth- quake covered everything up, I wondered © to myself. Just then, Ivan called me over and scribbled some instructions on his underwa- ter note pad, and I quickly reset my camera and turned off my strobes, wondering what was going to happen next. He pulled out a narrow beamed torch and pointed it at one of the most beautiful Phone: +61 7 4053 0500 nudibranchs I had ever seen, its yellows and www.mikeball.com purples in stark contrast to its dark brown Email: [email protected] Fax: +61 7 4031 5470 The "Marilyn Monroe" nudibranch, rubble surroundings. I took a photo and as I Visit: 3 Abbott Street, Cairns. Queensland 4870 Australia Goniobranchus kunei, at Dakeda Blue and yellow adult male ribbon eel at Twin Rocks

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Register at www.lensbeyondocean.com Closing Date: 31st March 2018

A porcelain anemone crab hides in a bubble anemone at Coconut (above); Thorny seahorse at Secret Bay (left)

to find. If we struggled home base where we washed our to find the tiny critters gear and photographic equipment, with our dioptres, they showered and prepared our cameras would gently lift our ports for the following day. By the time our until they were pointing chores were completed, the sun was directly at the subject. setting and we chatted about our We were never rushed, day over ice cold local beers. but encouraged to take Dinner was a jovial affair, with divers photos until we were from around the globe chatting happy with the results, about what they had seen and pho- and only then did they tographed, sharing photo ideas and allow us to move on. By discussing techniques. We then went the end of the third dive, through our photos from the day and we were all in sensory tried to identify what we had seen find critters for us and call us over to overload, having never before seen in the huge library of identification photograph or look at them. As we so many new and exciting critters books. approached, they would show us in just one day. Even our two non- Malaysia International Dive Expo the direction we should come in at photography buddies were having a Daily routine to be lined up to take the best shots. wonderful time. We soon fell into a routine: Wake 4 - 6 MAY 2018 If the critters were really small, they early, drink coffee, have breakfast PUTRA WORLD TRADE CENTRE would use a pointer to point down Après dive and board the boat at 8:00 a.m. for a KUALA LUMPUR • Malaysia at the subject, making them easy After our dive, we headed back to day of diving. We would then return,

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This tiny soft coral cowrie at Manit Point is no more than 2mm in length (left); A reasonably large skeleton shrimp, about 3mm in length (above); A whip fan goby and shrimp share a branch at Sunview (right)

rinse gear, prepare cameras for Helpful tips You need to be patient and 67mm thread. One flap screws the next day, drink a couple of I had travelled to Anilao to you need to take your guide’s on to the front of your port and beers, have dinner, chat pho- improve my photography and advice and follow his pointer. the other flap attaches to your tography, try to identify all the within the first couple of days, wet dioptre. You are then able amazing critters we had seen I had learned so much more Magnifying wet lenses. Do not to flip it open when you do not during the day and fall into than I had ever hoped to. even consider going to Anilao need to use the dioptre, and bed. Below, I share some tips from unless you have a strong mag- close it again so that it is in front Over our week-long stay the trip. nifying wet lens (often called of your port when you do. This in Anilao, we dived 20 dif- a dioptre) for your camera. means you do not need to ferent dive sites, some more Tiny critters. The photos you see Many of the critters are mere waste time screwing the diop- than once. The macro life was in magazines, books and social millimetres in length, especially tre on and off the port during a incredible, and every day media do not prepare you for the skeleton shrimp, pygmy sea- dive, thus reducing the chance we discovered new fish, new the size of these critters. One horses, hairy shrimp and many of losing it, too. shrimps, new nudibranchs and expects them to be quite large, of the nudibranchs. I used my new photography techniques. but in reality, most are really +12.5 dioptre wet lense most Back button focus. This is a We even “went wide-angle” tiny! Take pink-eyed gobies, for of the time, and the majority great feature of DSLR cameras, one day, and explored Ligpo example. I had thought they of other guests seemed to be most mirror-less and some com- Island, with its huge pink bar- were about 5cm long. The ones using them too. pact cameras. It is particularly rel sponges, vibrant yellow I saw and landed up shooting useful when using magnifying soft coral trees and an area were about 0.5cm long, and Flip dioptre holder. As some of wet lenses, which result in a very carpeted in anemones with boy, did they move around a the critters are too large for a shallow focal plane. It works by their resident clown fish. Simply lot. It was challenging, it was dioptre, I would also advise get- removing the focus function Playing with blue and snoot lighting beautiful! fun and incredibly addictive. ting a flip dioptre holder with a from your shutter button and whilst photographing a whipfan goby

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Tiny cuttlefish and juvenile filefish shel- ter together next to a small boulder at Saimsim (left); Snooted profile of a scorpionfish at Gazer (far left); Bornella nudibranch at Kirby’s Rock (center)

allocating it to a button on the shooting. Both 180- and back of your camera. You then 45-degree viewfinders use the back button to lock are available, and after focus on the critter and move the trip, I invested in a the camera in and out mil- 45-degree viewfinder. limetre by millimetre, pressing Its magnified view now the shutter when you see your helps me determine subject is in sharp focus. This whether my subject is in makes it much easier on your focus and aids in com- shutter finger, as you will no position of shots. Looking longer need to hold your shut- slightly downwards and ter half-pressed to keep focus- getting used to pointing sing as you take your photos. the camera at a differ- When you move on to the next ent angle did take a bit subject, you can use the rear of getting used to, but in focus button to lock focus on the end, it was great— the new critter. and a lot easier on my neck, what to expect. If you know strobes to bring out its textures too. what critters you will be seeing, or main features. A bit of back- Magnifying viewfinder. I dis- find out what they look like, ground knowledge paired with covered that if one is taking Research beforehand. A piece what their habits are, whether the incredible expertise of the photos of such tiny critters, a of advice I would give anyone they carry eggs and where dive guides will help you get Usagi nudibranchs are incredibly small. magnified viewfinder that can travelling to a new destina- they can be found. Think of the most from your trip. Also known as “Shaun the Sheep” nudi- be attached to the back of tion—especially to take pho- the best angles and lighting for branchs, they can be found on the small your housing really gives you tos—do your research, look at that particular creature and Spotting the critters. If you green leaves growing in the sand at the a better view of what you are photos, watch videos. Know how you could position your struggle to see the small stuff dive sites close to Secret Bay. Zanzibar whip coral shrimp at Saimsim

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This nudibranch (above) is incredibly small. Just to put it into perspec- tive, that is a grain of sand next to it! Two Eurbranchus nudibranchs at Balanoy (top right); Tiny psychedelic batwing slug (right), absolutely min- ute at about 2mm in size, at Dead Palm; Beautiful and tiny Chromodoris reticulata nudibranch at Bethlehem (far right)

and use reading glasses on land, invest in that you could dam- a mask that has special magnifying lenses age, or that could that help you see tiny critters underwater. injure you. If you already wear contact lenses and need to wear reading glasses as well, Pointers or muck investigate bifocal or concentric contact sticks. Although I lenses that have both your near and far have a pointer, I have prescription worked into them. I have never used it. Many recently done this and can now spot the people use them really tiny critters that live on the reef. to prop themselves up on the reef or on Hold steady. is incredibly impor- the sand whilst using their other hand to Afterthoughts Kate Jonker is an underwater photog- tant when taking macro photos. In Anilao, operate their camera. They are also used After our trip, I returned home feeling rapher and writer based in South Africa. there was very little surge or , mak- to point out critters to fellow divers or to inspired and rejuvenated, with so many She teaches underwater photography, is ing it relatively easy. You will either need to bang on cylinders for attention. I thought new ideas to try out. The huge diversity of an assistant instructor and dive boat skip- hover above your subject or prop yourself that this trip would be the ideal place to marine life in Anilao is incredible, the div- per for Indigo Scuba in Gordon’s Bay and up by placing two fingers on your left hand test mine out, but I found that it just got ing is easy and the people are welcom- leads dive trips across the globe. For more on a bare piece of rock or sand. Whatever in the way and never used it again after ing and friendly, making this an equally information, please visit: katejonker.com. you do, it is vital that you first check that the first day. Many people use them with enjoyable destination for photographers there is nothing close by or under the sand success. and non-photographers alike.  Yamasui nudibranch at Saimsim

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Location of the Philippines on global map (left), and location of Anilao on map of the Philippines (below); The dive fact file boat used in Anilao is called a bangka (right). The Philippines

KATE JONKER SOURCES: US CIA WORLD FACTBOOK, CDC.GOV, STATE.TRAVEL.US, WIKIPEDIA.ORG, XE.COM Text by Matthew Meier Philippine Language The official lan- between islands and an estab- Sea guage is Filipino, with eight major lished network of roads once on dialects, but English is widely spo- land, although only about 26% of History The Philippines have China Sea. The country consists of Environmental MANILA ken at most resorts. the countries roads are paved. been inhabited for tens of an archipelago of 7,107 islands, issues Challenges thousands of years but it was not spread out over nearly 300,000 include air and water Voltage The voltage in the Phil- Health & Security Mosquito- until 1543 that the country was square kilometers. The terrain pollution in major urban ippines is 220/240 AC at 50 cycles borne illnesses are a problem, Mindoro named Las Islas Filipinas in honor consists of volcanic mountains areas, deforestation in Samar and several socket types are uti- and there are cases of malaria, of King Phillip II of Spain by the and coastal lowlands, rang- watershed areas, soil lized. An international multi-prong dengue, Zika. Avoid mosquito bites explorer Ruy Lopez de Villalobos. ing from sea level to the highest erosion, degradation adaptor is recommended. by using mosquito repellent and The islands were colonized and peak, Mount Apo, at 2,954m. The of coral reefs, pollution Leyte covering up during times when Palawan remained part of the Spanish Philippines are situated at the of coastal mangroves, Panay Cuisine Philippine cuisine has a mosquitos are out. Water and empire for more than 300 years. northern tip of the coral triangle, which are important mixture of influences from Hispan- food-borne illness can also be a Following the Spanish-American the epicenter for global marine breeding grounds for fish. Negros ic, Chinese, American and other problem, so be sure to drink only Bohol war in 1898, the Philippines biodiversity. Coastline: 36,289km. Cebu Asian cultures. The food tends to bottled or filtered water and only were relinquished to the United Terrain consists primarily of moun- Economy The have full-bodied flavors but is not eat food that is cooked thorough- Sulu Mindanao States and in 1935 became a tains with coastal lowlands vary- Philippines boasts an Sea as spicy as neighboring countries. ly. Check your state department's self-governing commonwealth. ing from narrow to extensive. emerging economy, as Rice, fish, coconut, mangoes and current travel advisories about During World War II the islands Natural include typhoons, it transitions from agricul- plantains are staple ingredients. crime, terrorism and civil unrest. fell under Japanese control but landslides, volcanoes, earth- ture to the service and Filipinos do not eat with chopsticks MALAYSIA on 4 July 1946, after the United quakes and tsunamis. manufacturing industries. but prefer western cutlery or the chambers States helped the Filipino people Primary exports include traditional method of eating with Chambers exist on various islands reclaim control, the Republic Climate The climate in the semiconductors and Celebes a just washed right hand. across the country in cities such of the Philippines was granted Philippines is tropical, and the electronic products, Sea as Manila, Cebu, City, its independence. Numerous heat and humidity is greatly transport equipment, INDONESIA Tipping Tipping is not part of the , Makati City, City presidents and varying degrees influenced by the Amihan (“dry” copper, petroleum, Filipino culture and is not required, and Subic. US CIA WORLD FACTBOOK CIA US of political and economic northeast monsoon that typi- coconut oil, fruits and though it is becoming more com- stability have followed, but the cally blows mid-November to garments. Roughly 47% of the pop- Population The official popula- mon among the local population. Travel/Visa A return ticket country remains independent April) and the Habagat (“wet” ulation is employed in the service tion of the Philippines is 102,624,209 Tipping is, however, expected and a passport are required for to this day. The Philippines are southwest monsoon in May to industry, which accounts for 56% of (July 2016 est.), with over 12 million on dive boats and at entry into the Philippines and the a founding member of the October). The monsoons roughly the countries GDP. living in the capital city of Manila. most tourist resorts. Each establish- passport must be valid for at least United Nations and the World create three seasons: the hot, Ethnic groups: Tagalog 28.1%, ment will have their own guide- six months. Travelers from the Trade Organization, and their dry summer from March to May; Currency Philippine Peso (PHP) Cebuano 13.1%, Ilocano 9%, lines and recommendations. United States and Europe typi- current President Rodrigo the rainy season from June to Currency may be exchanged Bisaya/Binisaya 7.6%, Hiligaynon cally receive a free 30-day tourist Duterte was elected in May November; and the cool dry sea- at the Manila airport, local Ilonggo 7.5%, Bikol 6%, Waray 3.4% Transportation International visa upon arrival. An international 2016. Government: presidential son from December to February. banks and resorts. Credit cards (2000 census). Religions: Catholic flights from numerous countries terminal fee of roughly 550 PHP is republic. Capital: Manila The air averages are widely accepted at tour- 82.9%, Muslim 5%, Evangelical and airlines connect through charged at the airport when you 80°F (27°C) and ranges between ist destinations. Exchange rates: 2.8%, Iglesia ni Kristo 2.3%, other Manila and Cebu. Regional air- depart the Philippines. Geography The Philippines 70-90°F (21-32°C) depending on 1USD=51.98PHP; 1EUR =64.39PHP; Christian 4.5% (2000 census). lines connect from these hubs to a are located east of Vietnam in the season and location. Water 1GBP=73.88PHP; 1AUD=40.38PHP; Internet users: 56,956,436, or 55.5% multitude of locations throughout Web sites Southeast Asia, between the fluctuate between 1SGD=39.73PHP (July 2016 est.) the archipelago. There is also an Philippines Tourism Philippine Sea and the South 78-84°F (26-29°C). extensive ferry system for traveling experiencephilippines.org

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