The ’ Anilao — Best of Both Worlds Text and photos by Steve Jones

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Anilao’s offshore dive sites come alive as the streams over them PREVIOUS PAGE: Stunning seascapes are part and parcel of Anilao diving

The Philippine destination of is encrusted so densely in brightly Anilao has been described as coloured crinoids that hardly a single the “center of the center of centimeter remains unoccupied. The scene is simply stunning, yet I am in marine biodiversity” yet until a destination known for its critter life now has largely remained rather than stunning seascapes. It unknown to European and would seem that Anilao is indeed a American divers. This charm- destination with multiple charms, with reefs awash with colour and sandy ing location has even more shorelines that crawl with the weird to offer than staggering critter and the wonderful. life. Peculiarly, Anilao has managed to remain largely off the tourist map The water beneath me literally boils in outside of the Philippines until very a plethora of purple as anthias dance recently. Social media has played a in the mild current. Beneath them large part in generating interest in this the known simply as Beatrice area, with images of rare marine life Jacks, schooling above Twin Rocks Hypselodoris emma nudibranch

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Coleman shrimp (above); Frogfish can be found in a range of colors (left and top center inset)

taken by a group of dedicated pho- in on inhabitants that my own eyes tographers, drawing in more image- would have missed. He started with makers like bees to a flower. Word a species of shrimp I had not seen started to get out that this place before, but after only a few clicks of was special, with it being described my cameras shutter, his enthusiasm as “another Lembeh Strait”—that distracted me toward his second sub- Indonesian destination famed for its ject, a painted frogfish. He started high density of weird critter life. High pointing out critters quicker than I accolades indeed! could photograph them—obscure species of scorpionfish, unusual crus- Hidden charms taceans and more variety of nudi- Our Bangka, an outrigger style boat, branchs than I think I’ve ever seen on motors along down the beauti- any one dive. Every rocky outcrop on ful coastline towards “secret bay”, this otherwise barren looking seabed which is not really so much of a secret seemed to host an entire micro-eco- anymore as this is site has already system, and a 90-minute dive was not become renowned for its critter life. long enough. At first it appeared somewhat lunar- After an hour on the boat, we dived like, but it didn’t take long before the again on the same spot and were sharp eyes of the dive guide zeroed rewarded with a whole new range of Anilao’s seascapes perfectly compliment the outstanding critter life

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THIS PAGE (CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE): Some of the resident population include wunderpus, blue-ringed octopus, coconut octopus and day octopus

species. It’s difficult to imagine where you can either switch off a more productive dive site, yet, and relax or get totally immersed as our boat sped back towards in the diving—or, of course, do a Aiyanar Beach and Dive Resort, I bit of both. know there were more than 50 in Anilao village has a shallow seabed the region waiting to be explored. in front of the beach covered in sea- grass. This is the sort of dive site I would Together alone avoid in most destinations, but when in This destination is commonly critter rich territory, this sort of site can referred to as Anilao, however, be surprisingly good. the dive resorts actually spread Sure enough it was not long before for miles up the coastline from the we soon found mimic, coconut and small Anilao village in a way that wunderpus octopus. Tiny and vulner- doesn’t make the place feel at all able looking filefish hovered cautiously overcrowded. In fact, other than amongst the sea grass whilst species of excursions, most holidaymakers shrimp scuttled between burrows, using tend to stay within their resorts. discarded human cans to hide behind, This is a quiet place where relax- cans which were themselves occupied ation is the name of the game— by sheltering fish. there is no evening social scene, Every hole, whether man-made or other than what’s going on within natural, became a shelter as dusk ap- the resorts. If you are looking for a proached—being caught out in the vibrant evening life, best look else- open at night may not have a happy where, for this destination is one ending as the predators such as snake

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Striated (hairy) frogfish (above); Berry’s Bobtail squid (inset); Thorny seahorse (right)

eel and the grotesque bobbit worms nar Beach and Dive Resort commented, start to emerge from their daytime ref- “For most divers, Anilao would uges. be their first underwater experience. We learned here, our first and most of our Origins underwater experiences and our love I was surprised by what I was seeing. I’d for the ocean was brought about by An- heard Anilao was special but hadn’t ex- ilao, but it is the influx of foreign divers, pected this—the quality of marine biologists and the knowledge here was simply off the scale. they have brought with them that has But how did this place remain a secret led to this place—that we thought we for so long? It is within easy reach of the already knew—now starting to show us capital, just a three-hour drive, depend- so much more.” ing of course on traffic (and Manila is It was that growing realization particularly famous for its traffic!) and amongst the scientific community that with international flights landing through- Anilao was special, that led to marine out each day, it must be amongst the biologists such as Dr Terry Gosliner be- easiest of the long-haul destinations to ginning their surveys of the area, docu- reach. menting the huge biodiversity. Dive Operator Marco Santos of Aiya- The species count of nudibranchs Life competes for space on every square inch of this reef

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Anilao and the nearby Verde passage has the highest nudi- branch biodiversity in the world so far recorded

“Every dive here is like anywhere else. He somebody has reshuffled a describes this area as pack of cards, as we keep the “Apex of the finding new species even at Triangle” and he and sites we’ve dived many times many of his colleagues before,” said Gosliner. Over consider it the most half of these are new species remarkable place they that have not been recorded have ever seen.

Sombrero A boat ride to the outly- ing islands of Sombrero and Caban, brings us to some of the most spectacular seascapes in the area. Since they and their relatives alone now are swept by strong cur- stands at a staggering 863 in rents, diving on the sub- Anilao and the nearby Verde merged reefs here has passage, and that number is to be timed carefully. still rising! This is the highest on Clear blue water the planet. washes over reefs that

Seascape on one of Anilao’s outlying reefs

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Halimeda ghost pipefish; Banded Tozeuma shrimp (top right); Emperor shrimp (right)

are ablaze with orange and purple anthias against a backdrop of the brightly coloured , creating an epic rainbow-like scene. I found that the con- trast with the muck dives near the shore couldn’t be more pronounced, emphasising the appeal- ing diversity in the diving conditions here. World class critter diving and Anilao, it was recognised over 20 stunning seascapes can be found years ago that the reefs needed to amongst a huge variety of dive sites be protected. that are suitable for beginners to The first significant moves to con- advanced divers and photographers serving the area came in 1991 will simply be in heaven in this A-List with the setting up of three Marine destination. Protected Areas (MPAs) in the stretch of water that separates the mainland Guardians of the reefs from the island of Maricaban. Known Overfishing has proved to be a huge as Cathedral Rock, Arthurs Rock and problem in the Philippines, yet in Twin Rocks, these three MPA’s are- Bigfin reef squid Ornate ghost pipefish

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maintained by committees of far grander scale local villagers, who have really to yet get to grips taken governance of the reefs with this dilemma. to their hearts and keep the It is a great cred- areas under constant watch, it to the villagers in ensuring no fishing or anchoring this Philippine prov- in the protected areas. ince that they have Dive tourism helps in other proved that with ways as well, as many fishing proper stewardship, boats instead now carry divers. enough food can Twin Rocks is a great example be harvested, but of a well-preserved reef, cov- the communities ered in large corals and spong- as a whole can still es interlaced with schooling reap the benefits snapper and a resident school that dive tourism of trevally that stretches seem- can bring. Anilao ingly to the surface. is truly a destination that offers and Dive Resort (aiyanar.com) Indeed, finding the balance the best of both worlds in so and Terrence Gosliner, Ph.D, between long-term sustainabil- many ways. ■ Senior Curator, Department of ity and short-term gain will con- Invertebrate Zoology, California tinue to be a challenge for the Academy of Sciences. More of Philippines. However, the rest of The author gives special thanks Steve Jone’s work can be seen at the world has also failed on a to all the staff at Aiyanar Beach www.millionfish.com Flamboyant cuttlefish (above); Devil scorpionfish ((right) Snake blenny; Black-finned snake eel (top)

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TOP LEFT TO RIGHT: Hawksbill sea turtle; Skeleton shrimp; Ambon scorpionfish

TRAVEL INFORMATION beginners and more experienced divers

Fly to Manila. Aiyanar Resort is a 2.5 hour Best Time to Dive: All year, with November car journey from the airport, and the to June being regarded as the best resort can arrange transportation any months. time of day or night. Air : Normally 25-34ºC. During Visa Requirements: Not required for stays rainy season, 23-28ºC. of up to 30 days (29 nights) Water Temperature: Most of the year, Currencies: U.S. Dollar and Euro are wide- 28-30ºC. During January and February, it ly accepted. Recommend changing some can drop to 25-28ºC. Note: I was there cash to Philippine Peso at the airport ATM. in April and definitely needed a 5mm suit and hood—a 3mm would have been Land Tours and Excursions: There are inadequate. excursions to nearby hot springs, water- falls and volcanos available. Rainy Season: July to October

DIVING INFORMATION Security: As all around the world, be care- ful with your valuables and remain street Experience Level: Anilao is ideal for both smart. ■

This reef explodes with colorful crinoids

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RIGHT: Global map with location of the Philippines fact file BELOW: Location of Anilao on map of The Philippines the Philippines

CHINA TIAWAN

Health Please consult your health department SOURCES: U.S. CIA WORLD FACTBOOK, for the latest information. U.S. DEPT OF STATE, SCUBADIVEPHILIPPINES.COM Strait There is a high degree of risk for food or waterborne History During the 16th century, by the 2008 global financial crisis. still remain in battling diseases such as bacterial the Philippine Islands became Benigno Aquino III was elected poverty, unemployment Babuyan diarrhea, hepatitis A, and a Spanish colony; In 1898, they president in May 2010. Armed or underemployment, Islands typhoid fever; vectorborne were ceded to the United States insurgencies and separatists in governance reform and diseases such as dengue fever following the Spanish-American the south continue to be threats. improving the judicial and malaria; and water contact War. The Philippines became a Government: Republic. Capital: system, infrastructure, South disease such as leptospirosis (2013) China Sea self-governing commonwealth Manila regulatory predictabili- Luzon Philippine in 1935 under elected President ty, and attracting grea- Sea Chamber Manuel who had to pre- Geography The country is ter local and foreign Hyperbaric and Wound pare the country for independ- comprised of an archipelago investment by increa- Population Healing Center ence after a ten-year transition. located in Southeastern Asia, sing ease in doing busi- 107,668,231 (July 2014 St. Patrick’s Hospital Medical Center The islands fell under Japanese east of Vietnam between the ness in the country. est.) Ethnic groups: Lopez Jaena St. Batangas City 4200 occupation in 1942 during WWII. Philippine Sea and the South MANILA Tagalog 28.1%, Cebu- Tel. +63-43-723-8388 U.S. and Filipino fought China Sea. Its terrain is mostly Climate Tropical ano 13.1%, Ilocano 9%, together to regain control from mountainous with narrow to marine. The north- Bisaya/Binisaya 7.6%, Links Mindoro 1944-45. Philippino independence vast coastal lowlands; Coastline: east monsoon occurs Samar Hiligaynon Ilonggo 7.5%, Philippines Department of Tourism was declared on 4 July 1946. A 36,289 km; Elevation: lowest point: November to April, the Bikol 6%, Waray 3.4% www.wowphilippines.com.ph widespread rebellion of the peo- Philippine Sea 0m; highest point: southwest monsoon (2000 census) Religions: ple forced President Ferdinand Mount Apo 2,954m. occurs May to October. Panay Catholic 82.9%, Muslim

Marcos into exile after 21 years Cebu Leyte 5%, Evangelical 2.8%, of rule in 1986 when Corazon Economy The nation’s econo- Environmental Palawan Gulmaras Island Iglesia ni Kristo 2.3%, Aquino was installed as president. my faired better than most after issues Challenges other Christian 4.5% During her presidency, there were the global economic and finan- include soil erosion, Negros (2000 census) Internet several coup attempts, which cial downturns because of several uncontrolled deforesta- users: 8.278 million (2009) affected political stability and factors: less exposure to affected tion, water and air pol- Sulu Sea economic development. In 1992, international securities, decreased lution in major urban Mindanao Language Filipino and Fidel Ramos was elected presi- dependence on exports, recove- areas as well as coral English dent who enjoyed a presidency ry of domestic consumption, large reef degradation and marked by greater stability and payments from several million increasing pollution Basilan Security Please consult progress on economic reforms. overseas Filipino workers, and a of coastal mangrove Island your state department The United States closed its last fast growing business outsourcing swamps. MALAYSIA for the latest information. military bases on the islands in industry. As a result, the Philippines In the past year, there 1992. President Joseph Estrada, has gained several upgrades in Currency Philippine have been reports on elected in 1998, was impeached its sovereign debt credit rating, peso (PHP). Exchange Celebes activities against foreign- on corruption charges and was making financing its deficits with rates: 1USD=44.97PHP; Sea ers by terrorist or insurgent succeeded by his vice-president, domestic and international mar- 1EUR=56.71PHP; groups based in the area Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo who kets easier. While current admi- 1GBP=72.92PHP; of Mindanao Island, the was elected to a six-year term in nistration have increased social 1AUD=39.27PHP; Sulu Archipelago and the May 2004. The country was one spending and infrastructure 1SGD=35.26PHP I N D O N E S I A southern Sulu Sea. of the few relatively unaffected programs, long termchallenges Pink-eared mantis shrimp

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