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Recent Developments in Rapier Weaving Machines in Textiles

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Recent Developments in Rapier Weaving Machines in Textiles American Journal of Systems Science 2012; 1(1): 7-16 DOI: 10.5923/j.ajss.20120101.02 Recent Developments in Rapier Weaving Machines in Textiles Subhankar Maity1, Kunal Singha1,*, Mrinal Singha2 1Department of Textile Technology, Panipat Institute of Engineering & Technology, Harayana, India 2Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, CU Shah College of Pharmacy & Research, Gujarat, India Abstract This paper reviews the recent developments in rapier weaving and addresses the challenges that face the weaving industry. The paper sheds the light on how the weaving machine manufacturers and woven fabric producers might strengthen the weaving industry by further advanced the rapier technology with the help of electro-mechanics, electronics, microprocessors, information technology and their application to the production of woven fabrics. Keywords Rapier, Electro-Mechanics, Electronics, Microprocessors, Information Technology, Woven Technology Smith of Salford was granted a patent to eliminate the shuttle. 1. Introduction Subsequent patents were taken out by Phillippe and Maurice in 1855, W.S. Laycock in 1869, W.Glover in 1874[7]. Rigid Rapier weaving today exists in diversified forms. During rapiers were invented in 1870 and perfected by O. Hal- the last two decades the developments in rapier weaving lensleben in 1899. The main breakthrough came in 1922 have been carried out in a rapid continuous way. Rapier when John Gabler invented principle of loop transfer in the weaving machine produces top- quality fabrics from spun middle of the shed [8-10]. Flexible rapiers of the type used yarns such as cotton-wool, camel hair, silk, synthetic fibers today were proposed in 1925 by R.G.Moya of Barcelona, and fancy yarns. Today’s rapier weaving machine has be- based on a Spanish patent applied for in 1924. In 1939, an- come fast and exceptionally flexible. It offers a choice of other inventor, R.Dewas, introduced the novel idea of various reed widths, shedding motions, selvedges and filling grasping the weft at its tip by the giver or a carrier rapier, and insertion colors. then transferring it to the taker or a receiver, in the middle of This makes it suitable for weaving an extended range of the shed. In the period up to the beginning of the World War articles: fashion fabrics, shirting, denim, suiting, industrial or 2 many patents were applied for, but it was only in the 50s furnishing fabrics, in one to eight or twelve filling colors or and 60s that rapier weaving finally become commercialized yarns, with a maximum weight of 500 g/m2. Today’s rapier and since then has made highly significant progress in weaving machine is designed with modern electronics, with achieving the present weft insertion rate of 1,500 m/min total automation of weaving and central microprocessor plus[11]. control system, also ensuring maximum reliability, amazing user-friendliness, ease-of operation, shorter style changing time, excellent fabric quality, low energy consumption, and 3. History of Development of Rapier optimized insertion cycle for unequalled industrial Technology speed[1-4]. Rapier looms vary greatly in both the general strategies of their design, such as the choice of method used to transfer the 2. History of Rapier weft between the rapiers and the types of rapier used- rigid, flexible or telescopic- and in details of mechanism used. In the past 150 years weaving machinery has gone through These machines find preferential use in the production of the most radical changes. Although the invention of the fly with fashion-appeal compared to other methods of weft shuttle by John Kay-which doubled the production of hand insertion which are mainly suitable for weaving staple items loom - came in 1733, the development of shuttleless loom, with limited fashion-appeal. Ease of multicolor weft inser- starting with the rapier loom, goes back to 1844, when John tion is fully exploited by rapier looms - many can insert up to 12 colors in any pick-at-will patterning sequence, including * Corresponding author: [email protected] (Kunal Singha) their ability to deal with a wide range of yarns and fabric Published online at http://journal.sapub.org/ajss types. The positive rapier drives enables heavy or otherwise Copyright © 2012 Scientific & Academic Publishing. All Rights Reserved difficult yarns to be inserted. The rigid rapier system of weft 8 Subhankar Maity et al.: Recent Developments in Rapier Weaving Machines in Textiles insertion has the advantage of positive thread transfer in the timing for presenting for filling yarn is perfectly synchro- centre of the shed without any need for guiding the rigid nized with machine speed and weave pattern. rapiers through the shed and without making contact with the ● The course of filling yarn is low and remains constant. warp thread. However this is at the cost of occupying more ● The filling presenter also provides ideal position for re floor space, which causes reed width of the rigid rapier to be threading. limited. The flexible rapier system of weft insertion has the ● The modules of quickstep are interchangeable. reputation of being most adaptable and most applicable. The outstanding feature of flexible rapier machine is its signifi- 4.2. Picking Speed cant increase in weft insertion rate, greater reed width In jacquard weaving upto 12 weft colors give a wide va- (460cm), versatility and adaptability. In the last 15 years or riety of patterning option. The G6500 offers a machine speed so the design of the rapier machine has been revolutionized of upto 700 rpm and a maximum weft insertion rate of 1620 by new innovations, engineering walkthroughs, automation m/min[6,8]. in processes, introduction of computer technology, elec- tronics and CAD-CAM systems. The weaving industry on 4.3. Secure Filling Transfer the whole has entered a new era of electronics, microproc- During centre transfer from the left-hand to the right-hand essors, information technology and their application to the rapier, the filling is positively controlled and thus securely production of woven fabrics. Incorporation of electronic transferred. The filling is released after the rapier has exited devices and system to weaving machines has become almost the shed in the open shed position and under absolutely inseparable part of the machine. Developments, particularly control conditions. In Dornier rapier weaving machine, the of microprocessors, have revolutionized the design of the highest peak yarn tension is extremely low due to the low rapier weaving machines, including the weft propulsion rapier speed and positive control. Soft thread clamps with technology. The weft insertion elements have been made hard metal inserts and precision controlled transfer enable smaller and lighter in weight[2,4,26-28]. even coarse filament yarns of 2200 dtex with 450 filaments to be securely clamped and inserted[6,7]. 4. Development in Filling Insertion In the area of filling insertion there are a lot of develop- ments and implementation has been done since few years. These are discussed following. 4.1. Versatility in Colour Insertion by Electronic Insertion The weft color selectors of today’s rapier weaving ma- chine are microprocessor controlled, compact sized ones and can be available in 16, 12, 8, 4 or 2 colors. Picanol developed the Quick Step filling presenter, operates with independent module, each consisting of an electronically controlled stepper motor with presenter needle. The color and weave pattern are microprocessor or jacquard controlled. After the Figure 1. Secure filling transfer[7] left gripper has taken the presented yarns, the Quick Step needle returns to an intermediary position, so the course of the filling yarn is straight and the tension of the yarn is low and remains constant. The Quick Step filling presenter has several advantages. It is monitored by the machine micro- processor, so the timing for the presentation of the filling yarn is perfectly synchronized with the machine speed and the weave pattern. The filling presenter also provides the ideal position for rethreading. The modules of the Quick Step are interchangeable and there are no mechanical drives, so no maintenance or lubrication is required[6,7]. Dornier offers the Electronic Color Selector (ECS), and the electronic fill- ing tension device with integrated filling stop motion (EFC), are based on state-of-the-art stepping motor technology and are controlled by an external CAN-BUS[6,7,31]. Advantages of the system are; ● It is monitored by weaving machine microprocessor so Figure 2. Versatile rapier [7] American Journal of Systems Science 2012; 1(1): 7-16 9 4.4. Versatility of Rapier Gripper features; A new generation rapiers capable of handling even the ● Lower peak tension in filling yarn. most difficult of yarns, typical of the latest trends in fashion ● Reduced tendency of filling to bounce back. fabrics. The rapiers are lightweight and compact and ● Inserted pick can be stretched more easily. mounted at the centre of gravity on the ribbons to reduce ● Adjustments are done by means of machine keyboard wear to the minimum and guarantee maximum accuracy in and display. movement. It facilitates the processing of the widest range of ● The settings can be adopted for each filling yarn. yarn types and counts – from fine silk yarns through glass ● Fewer filling breaks. rovings to the coarsest effect yarns. The count range lies ● Fewer machine stops. between 0.77 tex and 3333 tex. The weft exchange also takes ● Better fabric quality. place in slow speed, thus making life far easier for those ● Higher productivity of machine and staff. involved in adjusting the machine setting and at machine ● Weaker filling yarn can be used. start-up[6,7]. ● Correct setting of filling waste length and consequently less waste. 4.5. Free Flight Rapier In Picanol GamMax rapier weaving machine, each prewinder is equipped with Programmable Filling Tensioner Free Flight means that hooks no longer guide the rapier (PFT).
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