A History of Diamonds Through Philately: the Frank Friedman Collection
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To Download a PDF of an Interview with Frédéric De Narp, President and Chief
A Brilliant Beginning An Interview with Frédéric de Narp, President and Chief Executive Offi cer, Harry Winston, Inc. EDITORS’ NOTE Frédéric de Narp currently have eight salons. our next visits harry winston. we are currently working assumed his current post at Harry largest market is in Japan, but the rest on a new salon concept that will celebrate the Winston in January of 2010. Prior of the world is yet to be developed for tradition and aesthetics of harry winston in a to this, he served as the President harry winston. we have plans to fur- warmer and more welcoming environment. this and CEO of Cartier North America. ther develop in europe where we see fall, we will unveil two new salons under this He began his career in luxury re- some strong potential. over the next concept: a Las vegas salon and our renovated tail nearly 20 years ago at Cartier in few years, we will also look to expand fl agship salon on Fifth avenue, designed with ar- Japan, and worked in various po- our presence in and around china, chitect, william sofi eld, who just won the cooper sitions with the company in Tokyo, where the brand continues to perform hewitt national design award. Switzerland, Italy, and Greece be- well. harry winston currently has a The brand has been focused on giving fore moving to New York in 2005 to network of 20 retail salons worldwide, back from the beginning. How critical is oversee Cartier North America. so there is tremendous opportunity for that to the culture of Harry Winston, and Frédéric de Narp the brand to grow, while remaining how important is it going forward to main- COMPANY BRIEF Harry Winston exclusive. -
The Political Thought of Harry Oppenheimer, Under the Editorship of Kalim Rajab
THE JOURNAL OF THE HELEN SUZMAN FOUNDATION | ISSUE 81 | DECEMBER 2017 BOOK REVIEW Gary Ralfe retired from active business life in 2006 after forty A Man Of Africa : The Political years of service firstly with Anglo American Corporation, and then Thought of Harry Oppenheimer with De Beers where he was Managing Director for eight Edited by Kalim Rajab years. In addition to My forty-year career with Anglo American and De Beers developed the HSF he chairs the Board of Governors under the benign shadow of Harry Oppenheimer (HFO). To generations of Michaelhouse, the of managers and staff in what used to be called the greater group HFO fund-raising arm of the Alexandra Education was more than a chairman and leader. He was a living icon. I was Committee, the fund- not the first or the last young man or woman to join Anglo American raising arm of Business Against Crime and the because it was a force for good in Southern Africa, the most important Beyond Foundation engine of economic growth, industrialisation, urbanization and a which does community work in rural areas. better life for all. I associated with the credo attributed to HFO’s father Sir Ernest Oppenheimer that “the purpose of large corporations such as Anglo American is to make profits for its shareholders, but to do so in such a way as to make a real and lasting contribution to the welfare of the communities where it operates”. It is surprising that seventeen years after HFO’s death there is still no biography. I know that the family wisely wanted time to elapse before commissioning one. -
Renowned for His Iconic Designs and Breathtaking Gem Collections, Harry Winston Was a Man Who Knew the True Value of a Diamond
A BRILLIANT LEGACY Renowned for his iconic designs and breathtaking gem collections, Harry Winston was a man who knew the true value of a diamond. BY ALLISON HATA 54 A diamond is anything but just another stone. Highly coveted, precious and exceedingly rare, diamonds can take on different meanings: a symbol of status, a statement of love or a sign of purity. “Diamonds are a physical connection to [the earth] other than our feet on the ground,” says Russell Shor, a senior industry analyst for the Gemologist Institute of America. “When the earth was young and there was volcanic mass seething inside—this is how diamonds were formed. Diamonds connect us to that.” One man understood this intrinsic connection and dedicated his life to bringing the world closer to the precious gem through his jewelry designs and generous gifts to national institu- tions. Known as the “king of dia- monds,” the late Harry Winston was the first American jeweler to own and cut some of the most iconic stones in history, in addi- tion to setting a new standard for jewelry that showcases a gem’s natural beauty. Born more than a century ago, the young Winston—the son of a small jewelry shop owner—demonstrated a natural instinct for examining diamonds and precious gems. In subsequent years, he cultivated this talent to become one of the most prominent diamond merchants and designers of his time. His legacy lives on through the house of Harry Winston, which pairs his classic vision with a contemporary sensi- bility to create modern pieces that still grace the red carpet today. -
Emigration from England to South Africa
Chapter 11: Emigration from England to South Africa When we landed at Harwich this time there was no trouble with Customs. Out of the dock area our first need was to fill up with petrol and when we did so Nigel was very intrigued and said to me quietly so as not to hurt anyone’s feelings ‘Daddy, They all speak English here!’ Of course, as they were often during the day in Utrecht in the care of a Dutch nanny (after her marriage, Kitty had been replaced by ‘Babs’), they heard a lot of Dutch spoken and understood quite a bit. When Babs took them to the Wilhelminapark (where it was forbidden to walk on the grass!), she would take them to see the ducks and they knew them as ‘eendtjes’ and a passing horse would be referred to as ‘een paard’. Only two days after we returned to England Stuart was being a little fractious when being taken for a walk in his push-chair, or stroller as it seems to be now called, and we attempted to distract his attention from whatever was worrying him by pointing out a passing horse and cart by saying ‘Kijk, Stuart, een paard!’ he replied crossly ‘It isn’t a paard, it’s a horse!’ Life in England was obviously not going to easy because we did not have a home, we only had the car for a few days until I would have to hand it over to Dr Johnson, my replacement for the job in Holland, and all I had to build a practice around was my appointment at the Middlesex which thanks to the introduction of the National Health Service was paid now, but not enough to keep a wife and family of three children. -
Star of the South: a Historic 128 Ct Diamond
STAR OF THE SOUTH: A HISTORIC 128 CT DIAMOND By Christopher P. Smith and George Bosshart The Star of the South is one of the world’s most famous diamonds. Discovered in 1853, it became the first Brazilian diamond to receive international acclaim. This article presents the first complete gemological characterization of this historic 128.48 ct diamond. The clarity grade was deter- mined to be VS2 and the color grade, Fancy Light pinkish brown. Overall, the gemological and spectroscopic characteristics of this nominal type IIa diamond—including graining and strain pat- terns, UV-Vis-NIR and mid- to near-infrared absorption spectra, and Raman photolumines- cence—are consistent with those of other natural type IIa diamonds of similar color. arely do gemological laboratories have the from approximately 1730 to 1870, during which opportunity to perform and publish a full ana- time Brazil was the world’s principal source of dia- Rlytical study of historic diamonds or colored mond. This era ended with the discovery of more stones. However, such was the case recently when significant quantities of diamonds in South Africa. the Gübelin Gem Lab was given the chance to ana- According to Levinson (1998), it has been esti- lyze the Star of the South diamond (figure 1). This mated that prior to the Brazilian finds only about remarkable diamond is not only of historical signifi- 2,000–5,000 carats of diamonds arrived in Europe cance, but it is also of known provenance—cut from annually from the mines of India. In contrast, the a piece of rough found in the state of Minas Gerais, Brazilian finds supplied an estimated 25,000 to Brazil, almost 150 years ago. -
THE CUTTING PROPERTIES of KUNZITE by John L
THE CUTTING PROPERTIES OF KUNZITE By John L. Ramsey In the process of cutting l~unzite,a lapidary comes THE PROBLEMS OF PERFECT CLEAVAGE face-to-face with problem properties that sometimes AND RESISTANCE' TO ABRASION remain hidden from the jeweler. By way of ex- amining these problems, we present the example of Kunzite is a variety of spodumene, a lithium alu- a one-kilo kunzite crystal being cut. The cutting minum silicate (see box). Those readers who are problems shown give ample warning to the jeweler familiar with either cutting or mounting stones to take care in working with kunzite and dem- in jewelry are aware of the problems that spodu- onstrate the necessity of cautioning customers to mene, in this case kunzite, invariably poses. For avoid shocking the stone when they wear it in those unfamiliar, it is important to note that kun- jewelry. zite has two distinct cleavages. Perfect cleavage in a stone means that splitting, when it occurs, tends to produce plane surfaces. Cleavage in two directions means that the splitting can occur in The difficulties inherent in faceting lzunzite are a plane along either of two directions in the crys- legendary to the lapidary. Yet the special cutting tal. The property of cleavage, while not desirable problems of this stone also provide an important in a gemstone, does not in and of itself mean trou- perspective for the jeweler. The cutting process ble. For instance, diamond tends to cleave but reveals all of the stone's intrinsic mineralogical splits with such difficulty that diamonds are cut, problems to anyone who works with it, whether mounted, and worn with little trepidation. -
Estate Jewelry Their Signed Work Consistently Fetches a Premium—Sometimes up to Three Times the ESTATE JEWELRY Only Reliable Source
HOW TO BUY Most estate dealers insist that the finest pieces never go on display. In addition JAR workshop at Place Vendôme turns out heirloom pieces that regularly earn two to Deco-era Cartier, the market is perpetually starved for natural (as opposed to cul- to three times their estimates at auction. Other designers to watch include Munich- tured) pearls and über-rare gemstones: Kashmir sapphires, “pigeon’s blood” Burmese based Hemmerle and New York’s Taffin, by James de Givenchy, a nephew of the cel- rubies from the fabled tracts of Mogok, Golconda diamonds. Most of the mines that ebrated couturier Hubert de Givenchy. produce these treasured gems have long since closed, making estate jewelry their Signed work consistently fetches a premium—sometimes up to three times the ESTATE JEWELRY only reliable source. value of a similar but unsigned piece. Greg Kwiat, the new CEO of Fred Leighton, says BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY “We have about a half-dozen people we call” when something special turns up, he recently inspected an important 1930s diamond necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels: says Walter McTeigue, co-founder of high-end jeweler McTeigue & McClelland, citing “On the strength of that signature, we increased our offer by 50 percent.” The provenance of a major piece of jewelry can often add to its allure and its retail value. an oil-shipping magnate, a publish- Add a well-documented prove- ing heiress, and a star hedge-fund M.S. Rau Antiques nance to the mix, and all bets are off. manager as clients who make his Jacques-Charles “A Cartier bandeau that was once But be sure you get the story straight before you hand over the cash Mongenot Louis XVI short list. -
Evaluation of Brilliance, Fire, and Scintillation in Round Brilliant
Optical Engineering 46͑9͒, 093604 ͑September 2007͒ Evaluation of brilliance, fire, and scintillation in round brilliant gemstones Jose Sasian, FELLOW SPIE Abstract. We discuss several illumination effects in gemstones and University of Arizona present maps to evaluate them. The matrices and tilt views of these College of Optical Sciences maps permit one to find the stones that perform best in terms of illumi- 1630 East University Boulevard nation properties. By using the concepts of the main cutter’s line, and the Tucson, Arizona 85721 anti-cutter’s line, the problem of finding the best stones is reduced by E-mail: [email protected] one dimension in the cutter’s space. For the first time it is clearly shown why the Tolkowsky cut, and other cuts adjacent to it along the main cutter’s line, is one of the best round brilliant cuts. The maps we intro- Jason Quick duce are a valuable educational tool, provide a basis for gemstone grad- Jacob Sheffield ing, and are useful in the jewelry industry to assess gemstone American Gem Society Laboratories performance. © 2007 Society of Photo-Optical Instrumentation Engineers. 8917 West Sahara Avenue ͓DOI: 10.1117/1.2769018͔ Las Vegas, Nevada 89117 Subject terms: gemstone evaluation; gemstone grading; gemstone brilliance; gemstone fire; gemstone scintillation; gemstone cuts; round brilliant; gemstones; diamond cuts; diamonds. James Caudill American Gem Society Advanced Instruments Paper 060668R received Aug. 28, 2006; revised manuscript received Feb. 16, 8881 West Sahara Avenue 2007; accepted for publication Apr. 10, 2007; published online Oct. 1, 2007. Las Vegas, Nevada 89117 Peter Yantzer American Gem Society Laboratories 8917 West Sahara Avenue Las Vegas, Nevada 89117 1 Introduction are refracted out of the stone. -
Your Guide to Postal Rules and Philately Rules Concerning Philatelic Postmarks Were Reproduced in Linn's Stamp News, April 16
Your Guide to Postal Rules and Philately Rules concerning philatelic postmarks were reproduced in Linn’s Stamp News, April 16, 1996, in an article entitled "Postal Rules That the USPS Refuses to Publish." They were condensed from section 160, “Philately,” in issue 45 of the old, softbound Domestic Mail Manual, the Postal Service’s bible for post offices and services in the United States. The rules cover most postmark subjects of interest to collectors.... Fred Baumann wrote, "Unfortunately, the illustrated 13-page section from which this was taken was last published in the DMM in 1992. Since then, the DMM has been published in a baffling loose-leaf format in a 12-tabbed, 3-inch binder. On postmarks, the lone 'Philatelic Services' page in the most recent issue of this loose-leaf DMM (Section G 900.1.5) now unhelpfully informs the use, 'Details on USPS policy on philatelic postmarking...are in the Postal Operations Manual'." Unlike the DMM, the Postal Operations Manual is not updated quarterly, nor to our knowledge is it available by subscription.... Until the USPS again makes this information easily accessible, you might want to clip and keep this page for ready reference. 163 Distribution and Sale of Stamps, Postal Stationery, and Philatelic Products 163.34 Temporary Philatelic Stations 163.341 Purpose of Participation. Post offices establish special temporary stations to provide philatelic services and to sell commemorative stamps and philatelic products. These stations may include specially constructed counters or mobile retail units. They are most frequently located at stamp shows, philatelic exhibitions, stamp dedications, state fairs, conventions, parades, or at other locations of activities of significant public or philatelic interest. -
Carat Weight It's the Old Quandary. Is Bigger Better? Size Is Sought After, Naturally; but Overall Quality Counts in the Stretch
Carat Weight It's the old quandary. Is bigger better? Size is sought after, naturally; but overall quality counts in the stretch. This balance of size and quality makes up much of the art of a professional gem cutter. It is the cutter's job to produce a gorgeous diamond while giving the consumer the highest CARATAGE for his or her money. Caratage means CARAT, the measurement used to weigh a diamond. The word carat is taken from the perfectly matched carob seeds that people once used in ancient times to balance scales. So uniform in shape and weight are these little seeds that even today's sophisticated instruments cannot detect more than three one-thousandths of a difference between them. Don't confuse it with KARAT, the method of determining the purity of gold. What's The Point? One Carat= 200 milligrams, or 0.2 grams. 142 carats adds up to one ounce. Carats are further divided into points. Carat Weight point system What does all this mean, and how does it work? The price of a diamond will always rise proportionately to the size of the stone. Larger diamond crystals are more rare and have a greater value per carat. So, a one carat diamond of a given color and clarity will be much more valuable than 2 one half carat diamonds of equal quality. Cut As the single human contribution to a polished diamond's beauty, cut is perhaps the most important, yet most over-looked, of the Four Cs of diamond quality. How does cut affect a diamond's value and beauty? A good cut gives a diamond its brilliance, its dispersion, its scintillation-in short, its life. -
Cut Shape and Style the Diamond Course
Cut Shape and Style The Diamond Course Diamond Council of America © 2015 Cut Shape and Style In This Lesson: • The C of Personality • Optical Performance • The Features of Cut • The Round Brilliant • Classic Fancy Shapes • Branded Diamond Cuts • Shape, Style, and Cost • Presenting Cuts and Brands THE C OF PERSONALITY In the diamond industry the term “cut” has two distinct meanings. One is descriptive. It refers to the diamond’s shape and faceting style. The other relates to quality, and includes proportions, symmetry, and polish. Most customers are familiar with only the first meaning – cut shape and style. That’s the aspect of All sorts of cutting shapes are cut you’re going to examine in this lesson. The next possible with diamonds. lesson explores the second part of this C. For many customers, cut shape and style is part of their mental image of a diamond. Shape contrib- utes to the messages that a diamond sends about the personality of the one who gives or wears it. When presenting this aspect of cut, you need to match the images and messages of the diamonds you show with the customers you serve. With branded diamond cuts, you may need to explain other elements that add appeal or value. When you’ve accomplished these objectives you’ve taken an important step toward closing the sale. The Diamond Course 5 Diamond Council of America © 1 Cut Shape and Style Lesson Objectives When you have successfully completed this lesson you will be able to: • Define the optical ingredients of diamond’s beauty. • Describe diamond cuts in understandable terms. -
The-Diamond-Empire-Transcript.Pdf
1 MEDIA EDUCATION F O U N D A T I O N 60 Masonic St. Northampton, MA 01060 | TEL 800.897.0089 | [email protected] | www.mediaed.org The Diamond Empire Transcript Part 1 begins on pg. 1 Part 2 begins on pg. 15 PART 1: INTRODUCTION NARRATOR: On a hill above Johannesburg is the private estate of one of the wealthiest families on earth. They’ve made their fortune by manipulating markets and fixing prices. Their money has come from ordinary people all over the world who imagine they’re investing in something rare and valuable. But this is a family which deals in illusion. It presides over one of the last great cartels, an extraordinarily successful business empire worth $60 billion. This is the Oppenheimer family and their trade is diamonds. NARRATOR: The richest diamond jewelry market in the world is in New York. It’s a $10.8 billion business. Around 47th Street, there are twenty-five thousand people who buy, cut, polish and sell diamonds, from the most glamorous jewelry to the cheapest mail-order. It’s a highly secretive and risky business. The Oppenheimers themselves declined to help in any way in the making of this film. Bill Goldberg is one of the few top dealers who will talk openly about what he does. BILL GOLDBERG: It’s fascinating, it’s amazing that a lot of men that are ten years younger than I am can’t wait to retire and I can’t wait to get here in the morning at eight o’clock, to produce these beautiful works, these beautiful pieces of art from what looks like a pebble on the beach.