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The American System of Dressmaking #ii.^H ^?j.ai»^'. College o. 'fc THE Mm System ol Dressmiildnt BY MISS PEARL MERWIN Supervisor AMERICAN mm of DRfSSMAKINO PUBLISHED BY The American College of Dressmaking Kansas City, Mo., U. S. A. b.iSRARYofCONeRESS? * . Tvrt) Copies Hocelvod i \ JUL 23 yor Cepyriirht Entry i COPY U. COPYRIGHTED I 907 BY THE AMERICAN COLLEGE OF DRESSMAKING q^g.^L^'^ PREFACE The Science of Dressmaking and Ladies' Tailoring em- braces a vast scope of knowledge, much of which because of the very nature of the relation which she sustains to the home and society, becomes, in a general way, the common property of all women. Beginning with the simplest forms, and gradually developing chapter by chapter, the more com- plicated phases of the profession, the author has studiously striven to classify and crystalize this general knowledge into a tangible working system. The success of her efforts will depend largely upon the student's ability to apply the in- structions given. This volume is intended to be at once a complete text book for the beginner, a handy guide for the seamstress in the home, and a ready reference for the graduate and pro- fessional dressmaker. CONTENTS CHAPTER 1. Introduction, Hints, Rules, Front of Waist, Taking measurements. Order of taking, neck, bust, waist, front, back, under arm, armhole, shoulder and drafting front. CHAPTER 2. Back of waist. Determining length of back, width of side bodies, width of center back. Finding position of back bust line. Extension of lines below waist line. Dart rules. How to arrange and apportion darts. Neck rules. Dif- ferent sizes, etc. Drafting back. CHAPTER S. Testing Measurements in Front and Back. Overcom- ing errors in measurements. Tracing the linings, fronts, back, center back and side bodies. Allowing width of seams, etc. Tracing wheel. CHAPTER 4. Sleeve Measurements. Rules for drafting a sleeve pat- tern. Rules for upper part of sleeve, lower part of sleeve, length of sleeve, etc. Testing measurements. Tracing lin- ings. General instructions on sleeves of all kinds. Draft- ing a sleeve. CHAPTER 5. Different Styles of Sleeves. Shirt waist sleeves, leg- o'mutton sleeves, bishop, plain, coat, lace, elbow sleeves. Foundation of all sleeves. CHAPTER 6. Basting and Fitting Lining of Waist. Seams to baste first. Shoulder seam, under arm, darts. How to baste seams so they will not gap. Basting sleeve seams. Cor- recting errors. How to stand. How to pin. Regulating darts. Fitting shoulder and armhole. Fitting sleeve lin- ing. Length of sleeve. Removing lining and making changes. CHAPTER 7. Stitching Linings and Finishing Seams. Arranging for hooks and eyes. Covering same. Boning the waist. Seams to bone and how long to cut bones. Putting in bones and finishing. Second fitting of waist. Padding and how to use it. Finishing the bottom of lining. Use of canvas. Fitting a waist lining over a form. CHAPTER 8. Draping a Waist. The yoke. The lower part. The back. Fullness in front and back. Finishing bottom of waist. Where yoke joins waist. Lace yokes. Evening waists. How to press seams in cloth. How to press velvet and silk. How to press sleeves. How to baste and stitch velvet, plush, corduroy, woolen goods, etc. CHAPTER 9. Shirt Waist. Measurements. Cutting, basting and fit- ting. Added fullness for shirt waist, tucks, plaits, etc. Under arm seam. Shoulder seam. Finishing seams. Belt line. Collar band. Front plait. LESSON 10. Collars and cuffs. Stock collars. Drafting a stock collar. Cutting a sailor and bertha collar. Storm collar. Coat collar. Soft collar. Depth of collar. Finishing col- lars. Cuffs and how to draft and make them. CHAPTER 11. Skirt measurements. Waist. Around the hips. Length in front. Length on side. Length of back. Draft- ing front gore. First side gore. Second side gore. Back gore. How to proportion width of gores for different measures. Testing skirt measures. Width of skirt. To proportion the skirt. Observations to make in taking skirt measures. Changes for different forms. CHAPTER 12. Cutting Lining for Skirt. Making gores. Width of seams. Basting skirt lining. How to make corrections. Finishing seams. Trimming bottom. Use of canvas. Use of haircloth. How to cut and use each. Facing. How to use velveteen. Opening in back. Band. Arranging full- ness in back. Walking skirts. Measurements. Length of back gore. Cutting. Sponging. Shrinking. Cutting goods with an up and down, with a plaid, etc. CHAPTER 13. Making Straps and Bands. Putting on skirt. Stitching on bands. Stitching the back seam. Finishing the placket. Different ways of finishing the placket. Hooks and eyes. Arranging hangings. Pressing. FIVE-GORE SKIRT. Cutting width of gores at the hips. Omitting second side gore. NINE-GORE SKIRT. Width of gores at the hip, at the waist, at the bottom. Width of front gore. Width of first two side gores. Width of third side gore. CHAPTER 14. Circular Skirt. Width of gores at waist and hips. Different ways of drafting a circular skirt. Darts at the waist line. FLARE SKIRT. Basting and stitching the seams. Determining the hip depth for the flat seams. Fin- ishing seams. Finishing the bottom of skirt. PLAITED SKIRTS. Arranging of plaits. Lengthwise tucks at the seams. Allowing for tucks. SHIRRED SKIRTS. Kind of shirring. Marking for shirring. Yoke pattern for skirts. Accordion plaiting. CHAPTER 15. Tailor-Made suits. Shrinking and sponging goods. Cutting twills and woolens. Cutting coat. Length of coat. Basting canvas and goods. Clipping and pressing seams. Lining for coat. The collar, cuffs, and sleeves and how to arrange them. The skirt. Seams. Placket. Lining. Stitching. Finishing. The peplum. How to cut and make a peplum. Trimming, etc. Nap on velvet. CHAPTER 16. Cutting cloaks. Measurements. Tight-fitting jackets. Cutting with one dart in front. Lining. Finishing seams. Cutting sleeves. Drafting a front with seam running to the shoulder. Cutting same. More than three seams in the back. Sack coats. Box coats. Finishing unlined coats. How to use canvas. CHAPTER 17. Wrappers. Princesses and Dressing Sacques. Cutting a wrapper. Basting and Finishing. Cutting the princess. The lining. The front. The first and second side bodies. Waist lines. Width at bottom of front and side bodies. Center back. Trimming. Dressing sacques. Drafting a pattern. Cutting. Fitting. Finishing. CHAPTER 18. Infants' and Little Girls' Dresses. Little Boys' Cloth- ing. Drafting patterns for an infant's first outfit. Dresses. Slips. Skirts, Wraps, etc. Little Wraps. Drawers. Night- gown. Waist. Sleeve. Collar. Little Boys' Clothing. Sailor waist. Blouse waist. Buster Brown suits. Pants. Collar and band. CHAPTER 19. Muslin Underwear. Drawers. Drawers band. Un- derskirt. Yoke for underskirt. Nightgown. Sleeve for gown. Chemise. Corset cover. Seamless Corset cover. Combination suit. Stitches. CHAPTER 20. Selection of Materials and Designing. CHAPTER 21. Boys' Pants. Taking Measurements. Waists, seat width, outside length, inside length, knee. Drafting front of pants, drafting back of pants. Pockets. Fastening. Fininshing. CHAPTER 22. Stitches. Basting, running, back-stitch, overcasring, over-handing, hemming, cat-stitching, feather-stitching, hem-stitching. French hem, French knots, buttonholes, eye- lets, loops, sewing on buttons, button molds, CHAPTER 23. Bias Bands and Folds, Circular Flounces, Graduated Circular Flounces, Circular Yoke, Girdles, Cording, Shir- rings, Tucked Shirring, French Shirring or Gathers, Ruch- ing. Pinking, Mode of applying Shirred Trimmings, Single Side-plaits, Single Box-plaits, Double box-plaits. Applying Fur Trimming. CHAPTER 24. Fitting up a Dressmaking Shop. Location. Room, Space, Reception room, sewing room and fitting room. Fur- nishings. How to Construct a Form for one's own use. CHAPTER 25. Household Recipes. Washing flannels and blankets. How to wash an infant's underwear. How to clean and Keep Lace. Cleaning Delicate Fabrics. To restore the finish to old goods. To make old black Cashmere look new. To restore color to faded ribbons. Washing cotton goods without fading. To restore color destroyed by acid. Clean- ing velvets. Cleaning kid gloves. CHAPTER 1. Introduction, Hints, Rules, Front of Waist, Taking measurements. Order of taking, neck, bust, waist, front, back, under arm, armhole, shoulder and drafting front. INTRODUCTION. For a great many years much has been known of mak- ing beautiful tapestries, embroideries and needlework, but the great problem of putting the art of plain sewing on a scientific basis and making it a part of woman's education is just now being solved. To meet the growing demand for more practical methods and to supply the long felt want that has been but sparingly met by the use of patterns, the American College of Dressmaking has spared neither time nor expense in the preparation of these lessons. Since in any work a thorough understanding of the rudiments is essential, so in sewing the first step is to im- plant those elements and principles which are the founda- tion of all needlework, and each part should be so thor- oughly mastered that the next becomes easy. Thus we have arranged a course of twenty lessons so systematically that each succeeding lesson is a natural stepping stone to what follows. Study these lessons carefully and diligently, as much depends upon the aptness, energy and spirit with which you 13 enter into the work. You cannot become a successful dress- maker unless you manifest every interest in the study and put forth every effort to carry the work through from start to finish without dragging. Nor do we want you to rush through with the course with a view to finishing in the shortest possible time, but rather to study each lesson until you are thoroughly fa- miliar with every part of it before taking up another. If at any time there are any points that you do not perfectly understand to your own satisfaction, write and ask us and the information will be cheerfully and promptly given.
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