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MACAU

Ruins of the Church of St Paul (p315 ) Monte Fort ( p319 ) Avenida da República ( p324 ) Temples ( p322 ) A-Ma Temple ( p324 ) House Museum ( p329 ) Village ( p331) Casinos (p340 ) To the northeast of Lampacau was a small dents, including about 900 Portuguese. The lonelyplanet.com peninsula where the Portuguese had frequently rest were Christian converts from Malacca dropped anchor. Known variously as Amagau, and Japan and a large number of slaves from Aomen and Macau (see the boxed text, below), colonial outposts in Africa, India and the the peninsula had two natural harbours – an Malay Peninsula. Many Chinese had moved The zodiac sign of Macau is Gemini. It is a city of duality. The fortresses, the churches and food inner one on the Qianshan waterway facing into Macau from across the border, and they of former colonial Portuguese masters speak to a uniquely Mediterranean style on the the mainland, and an outer one in a bay on worked there as traders, craftspeople, hawk- coast, intermixed with numerous alleys, temples and shrines along the way. On the other hand, the Pearl River – and two sheltered islands to ers, labourers and coolies; by the close of the you’ll find yourself in a self-styled Las Vegas of the East. Amazingly, all of these different parts the south. In 1557 officials at let century, their numbers had reached about of Macau are within a stone’s throw of each other. the Portuguese build temporary shelters on the 40,000. Lying 65km to the west of Hong Kong, Macau was the first European enclave in Asia, 450 peninsula in exchange for customs dues and Besides trading, Macau had also become years ago. When China resumed sovereignty over what is now called the Special Administrative rent. The Portuguese also agreed to rid the area a centre of Christianity in Asia. Priests and Region (SAR) of Macau in 1999, it was by far the oldest colony. During the past few years, the of the pirates that were endemic at the time. missionaries accompanied Portuguese ships, charismatic-but-sleepy traits of that little Macau have undergone an intensive transformation, although the interests of traders and mission- fuelled by the gambling industry’s boost to the economy. Super-sized by massive reclamation A Trading Powerhouse aries were frequently in conflict. projects for Vegas-style megacasinos and hotels, Macau has been turned into an enormous Macau grew rapidly as a trading centre, largely Among the earliest missionaries was Fran- construction site. The fast pace of growth and economic prosperity have resulted in a labour due to the fact that Chinese merchants were cis Xavier (later canonised) of the Jesuit order, shortage, skyrocketing rents and air pollution, along with a nostalgia among the people of forbidden to leave the country by imperial who spent two years (1549 to 1551) in Japan Macau for the past – and life before ‘Hongkongisation’ – when people earned less money but decree. Acting as agents for the Chinese attempting to convert the local population MACAU enjoyed a better quality of life. merchants, Portuguese traders took Chinese before turning his attention to China. He MACAU Though Macau remains the one and only place where casinos are legal in China, there is goods to Goa and exchanged them for cot- was stalled by the Portuguese, who feared the consequences of his meddling in Chinese BACKGROUND much more to do than just gambling. Largo do Senado on plus the islands of ton and textiles. The cloth was then taken BACKGROUND affairs, but made it as far as Tamaõ, where Coloane and Taipa form a colourful palette of pastels and ordered greenery. The Portuguese to Malacca, where it was traded for spices he developed a fever and died in influence is everywhere: cobbled backstreets, baroque churches, ancient stone fortresses, Art and sandalwood. The Portuguese would then carry on to Nagasaki in Japan, where the cargo 1552 at age 46. Deco apartment buildings, and restful parks and gardens. The cemeteries of Macau are the The Portuguese who stayed in Macau, final resting places of many European and American missionaries, painters, soldiers and sailors from Malacca was exchanged for Japanese sil- ver, swords, lacquerware and fans that would along with their Macanese descendants, cre- who died at ‘Macao Roads’. It’s a unique fusion of East and West that has been recognised by ated a home away from home. Their luxurious Unesco, which in 2005 named 30 buildings and squares collectively as the Historic Centre of be traded in Macau for more Chinese goods. During the late 16th century the Portuguese villas overlooking the , now the Macau World Heritage Site. enclosed Baia da Praia, and splendid baroque If you travel to Hong Kong, it is well worth a short trip to Macau. Travel between the two in Macau were at the forefront of all interna- tional commerce between China and Japan. churches were paid for with the wealth gener- territories has never been easier, with high-speed ferries now running virtually every 15 min- Macau’s growing status was evidenced when ated by their monopoly on trade with China utes (as well as frequent helicopter services). With time and patience you will be rewarded the Holy See established the bishopric of Macau and Japan. These buildings included the Jesuit with something new at each step and on every visit, but even spending just a night or two will in 1576, which included both China and Japan Church of Madre de Deus (later the Church let you discover this hybrid city’s unique lifestyles, temperaments and food that make it so under its jurisdiction. By 1586 Macau was im- of St Paul, p315), hailed as the greatest monu- much fun. portant enough for the Portuguese Crown to ment to Christianity in the Far East when confer upon it the status of a city: Cidade de dedicated in 1602. nese captains and crews. Realising that the Nome de Deus (City of the Name of God). BACKGROUND so-called Chins, about whom Portuguese mariners and explorers had heard reports a Portuguese Decline HISTORY century earlier, were not a mythical people but The Golden Years ’s decline as an imperial power came natives of ‘Cathay’ (the land that Marco Polo By the beginning of the 17th century, Macau as quickly as its rise. In 1580 Spanish armies Early Settlement occupied Portugal and for more than 60 years Archaeological finds from digs around Hác had visited and written about 2½ centuries supported several thousand permanent resi- Sá and Ká Hó Bays on Coloane Island sug- earlier), a small party sailed northwards to gest that Macau has been inhabited since try to open up trade with China. Neolithic times (from 4000 BC). Before the The first Portuguese contingent, led by Jorge WHAT’S IN A NAME? arrival of the Portuguese, Macau had a rela- Álvares, set foot on Chinese soil in 1513 at The name Macau is derived from the name of the goddess A-Ma, better known in Hong Kong as Tin Hau. At the south- tively small number of inhabitants, mainly a place they called Tamaõ, today known as western tip of Macau Peninsula stands the A-Ma Temple, which dates back to the early 16th century. Many people -speaking farmers and fisherfolk Shangchuan Island, about 80km southwest believe that when the Portuguese first arrived and asked the name of the place, ‘A-Ma Gau’ (Bay of A-Ma) was what from Fujian. of the mouth of the Pearl River. However, it they were told. wasn’t until 1553 that an official basis for trad- According to legend, A-Ma, a poor girl looking for passage to Guangzhou, was turned away by wealthy junk owners. ing was set up between the two countries, and Instead a poor fisherman took her on board; shortly afterwards a storm blew up, wrecking all the junks but leaving the The Arrival of the Portuguese the Portuguese were allowed to settle on Shang- fishing boat unscathed. When it returned to the Inner Harbour, A-Ma walked to the top of nearby Barra Hill and, in a In 1510 and 1511 the Portuguese routed Arab chuan. The exposed anchorage there forced the glowing aura of light, ascended to heaven. The fisherman built a temple on the spot where they had landed (which was, fleets at Goa on the west coast of India and Portuguese traders to abandon the island that in fact, on the water’s edge until land reclamation early in the last century set it further inland). Malacca on the Malay Peninsula. At Malacca same year, and they moved to Lampacau, an In modern Cantonese, Macau is Ou Mun (Aomen in Mandarin), meaning Gateway of the Bay. they encountered several junks with Chi- island closer to the Pearl River estuary. 306 307 lonelyplanet.com three Spanish kings ruled over the country the Portuguese attempted to maintain a hold spilled over into the territory. Macau was refused Hong Kong Chinese people. How- lonelyplanet.com and its empire. In the early years of the 17th on the territory. But as time progressed and stormed by Red Guards, and violent riots re- ever, not everyone in Macau benefited from century, the Dutch, embroiled in the Thirty the troublesome British wrestled concession sulted in some of them being shot and killed Portugal’s move. Until 1975 any Chinese Years’ War with Spain, moved to seize the rich after concession out of China, the Portuguese by Portuguese troops. The government pro- refugee reaching Macau could obtain resi- Portuguese enclaves of Macau, Nagasaki and grew bolder. posed that Portugal abandon Macau forever, dency. As a result, as much as 70% of the Malacca. In June 1622 some 13 Dutch war- The Treaty of Nanking (1842) ceded the but China refused to hear of it, fearing the loss population had not actually been born in ships carrying 1300 men attacked Macau but island of Hong Kong in perpetuity to the Brit- of foreign trade through the colony. Macau and therefore didn’t qualify for Por- retreated when a shell fired by a Jesuit priest ish; the Treaty of Tientsin (1860) gave them In 1974 a revolution restored democracy in tuguese citizenship. from one of the cannons on Monte Fort hit a Kowloon on the same terms. The Portuguese Portugal and the new left-wing government The years 1996 to 1998 were a grim show- stock of gunpowder and blew the Hollanders felt that they, too, should take advantage of began to divest Portugal of the last remnants down for Macau and its all-important tourism out of the water. China’s weakness and push for sovereignty of its empire, including Mozambique and An- industry – an escalating number of gangland The Japanese soon became suspicious of over the territory they had occupied for gola in Africa and East Timor in the Indone- killings took place. Some 40 people were killed Portuguese and Spanish intentions and closed three centuries. Negotiation began in 1862, sian archipelago. Power brokers in Lisbon as senior Triad leaders jostled for control of its doors to foreign trade in 1639. Two years although it was not until 1887 that a treaty was tried to return Macau to China as well, but the lucrative gambling rackets, and one inter- later, Dutch harassment of Portuguese com- signed in which China effectively recognised the word from Beijing was that China wished national hotel was raked with AK-47 gunfire. merce and trading interests ended with the Portuguese sovereignty over Macau forever. Macau to remain as it was – at least for the On 8 May 1998 alone, 14 cars and motorcycles capture of Malacca. The Portuguese would With the advent of the steamship, there time being. and a couple of shops were engulfed in flames no longer be able to provide the Chinese with were fewer transshipments from Chinese when Triad members, protesting the arrest of the Japanese silver needed for their silk and ports through Macau and more direct trans- their boss, Wan Kwok ‘Broken Tooth’ Koi, let

MACAU porcelain or with spices from the Malay Pe- actions between the mainland and Hong The End of Portuguese Rule off a string of firebombs. The violence scared MACAU ninsula. Kong. Macau’s future economy was greatly Once the Joint Declaration over Hong Kong tourists off in a big way; arrivals fell by some assisted by the legalisation of gambling in the had been signed by Britain and China in 1984, 36% in August 1997. BACKGROUND 1850s, but by the close of the 19th century the the latter turned its attentions to the future of As the handover approached, China put BACKGROUND A Change of Status ascent of the British colony and the decline Macau. Talks began in 1986 and an agreement pressure on Portugal to clean up its act. The A flood of refugees unleashed on Macau when of the Portuguese territory had become ir- was signed the following April. government issued a new anti-Triad law the Ming dynasty was overthrown in 1644. In reversible. Under the so-called Sino-Portuguese Pact, calling for a lengthy prison term for anyone 1684 the most corrupt of the new Manchu rul- Macau would become a Special Administra- found to be a senior leader. Koi was arrested ers, the so-called hoppo (hói poi in Cantonese) – tive Region of China. The date set was 20 and sentenced to 15 years, and many other the customs superintendent who held the Macau in the 20th Century December 1999, ending 442 years of Portu- Triad members fled overseas. monopoly on trade with foreigners – set up By the turn of the 20th century Macau was guese rule. Like Hong Kong, the Macau SAR an office in the Inner Harbour. little more than an impoverished backwater, would enjoy a ‘high degree of autonomy’ for At the same time religious infighting its glory days all but forgotten. It did, however, 50 years in all matters except defence and The Handover & Macau after weakened the status of Macau as a Christian continue to serve as a haven for Chinese refu- foreign affairs, under the slogan ‘one country, centre. In what became known as the Rites gees fleeing war, famine and political oppres- two systems’. 1999 Controversy, the Jesuits maintained that cen- sion. Among them was Sun Yat Sen, founder The basic law for Macau differed from its The handover ceremony on 20 December tral aspects of Chinese belief – such as ances- of the republic of China, who lived in Macau Hong Kong equivalent in that holders of for- 1999 was as stage-managed as the one held tor worship and Confucianism – were not before the 1911 Revolution. Even the birth eign passports were not excluded from hold- 2½ years earlier in Hong Kong. The follow- incompatible with the Christian faith. The of the Portuguese republic in 1910 had little ing high-level posts in the post-handover ing day 500 PLA soldiers drove down from Dominicans and Franciscans, equally well effect on the sleepy outpost. administration (apart from the position of Zhuhai. There are now an estimated 10,000 represented in Macau, disagreed. It took an In the mid-1920s large numbers of Chinese chief executive). There was also no stipulation troops stationed here, though they have no edict by Pope Clement XI in 1715 condemn- immigrants doubled the number of Macau that China would station troops of the Peo- responsibility for internal security. ing the rites as idolatrous to settle the matter residents to 160,000. A steady stream of refu- ple’s Liberation Army (PLA) in Macau after In the past decade or so, Macau has and this stopped further missionary expan- gees from the Sino-Japanese War meant that the return of the territory to China, though launched a series of enormous public works sion into China. by 1939 the population had reached 245,000. it did just that. and land-reclamation projects. The US$11.8- In the mid-18th century Chinese authori- During WWII many people from Hong Kong Macau had directly elected some of the billion airport built in 1995 and Cotai, a re- ties created the cohong, a mercantile mo- and China, as well as Asian-based Europe- members of its Legislative Assembly since the claimed area almost the size of Taipa with a nopoly based in Guangzhou that dealt with ans, took refuge in Macau, as the Japanese assembly’s founding in 1976 but, unlike Hong six-lane highway, are among the most ambi- foreign trade. Numerous restrictions were respected Portugal’s neutrality; by 1943 Kong, it did not rush through proposals to tious ones. placed on Western traders, including limita- the population stood at 500,000. There was widen the franchise or speed up democratisa- The deregulation of gambling laws in 2001 tions on the amount of time they could reside another influx of Chinese refugees in 1949 tion at the last minute. The existing legislature has further boosted the expansion of Macau’s in Guangzhou. Macau in effect became an when the Communists took power in China, continued to serve throughout the handover, land reclamation and economy, though prob- outpost for all European traders in China, a and from 1978 until about 1981 Macau was unlike that in the British territory. lems have followed this surge. On the one position it held until the British took posses- a haven for Vietnamese boat people. Macau But not everything went so smoothly. hand Macau has suffered a severe shortage sion of Hong Kong in 1841. was made an overseas province of Portugal Macau residents were pleased when Portugal of labour because of the galloping growth of Until the mid-19th century the history of in 1951. gave everyone born in Macau the right to a the gambling industry, forcing casinos to raise Macau was a long series of incidents involv- Macau’s last great upset occurred in 1966 Portuguese passport, allowing them to live wages dramatically to attract card dealers; on ing the Portuguese, Chinese and British as and 1967, when China’s Cultural Revolution anywhere in the EU – something the UK had the other hand the boom doesn’t really benefit

308 309 lonelyplanet.com the local workers, as cheap illegal labourers are Macau from 1845 to 1856; Frenchman Au- lonelyplanet.com often hired for construction. A protest on May guste Borget (1808–77), who spent some 10 MACAU CALENDAR day in 2007 that resulted in a brutal police months in 1838 and 1939 painting Macau’s suppression reflected the undercurrents of waterfront and churches; and watercolourist You’re likely to find a festival or some special event taking place in Macau no matter when you visit. (see dissatisfaction in the city. Macau’s image has Marciano António Baptista (1856–1930), who the boxed text, p16 ) is chaotic in Macau, and hotel rooms are a prized commodity during this period. Still, it’s a colourful time to visit, as the city literally explodes with bangers and fireworks – they’re legal here – and the streets are filled with been further tarnished by government officials was born in Macau. a carnival atmosphere. The Macau Formula 3 Grand Prix (p345 ) is also a peak time for visitors. The website of the Macau selling public land cheaply to financial giants Guan Qiaochang (1825–60), another of Government Tourist Office (MGTO; www.macautourism.gov.mo) has a list of events in Macau. For dates of Macau’s for commercial development and receiving Chinnery’s pupils, was a Chinese artist who public holidays, see p351 . For information on festivals and events celebrated both here and in Hong Kong, see p15 . bribes in return. The notorious Ao Man Long painted in the Western style and worked case, in which the former transportation min- under the name Lamqua. His oil portraits of February/March ister was accused of taking 800 million patacas mandarins and other Chinese worthies are in bribes – 57 times his legal income from his particularly fine. Procession of the Passion of Our Lord A 400-year-old tradition on the first Saturday of Lent in which a colourful proces- seven-year term of office – from a number of Two of the best galleries for viewing con- sion bears a statue of Jesus Christ from Macau’s Church of St Augustine to Macau Cathedral, where it spends the night and is carried back the following day. This will fall on 9 February in 2008, 28 February in 2009 and 20 February in 2010. public-works projects, is believed to be just temporary Macau and other art are Tap Seac the tip of the iceberg. Gallery (p326 ) and Ox Warehouse (p326 ) . April/May Other grand projects continue forward, including the megaresort City of Dreams in A-Ma Festival This festival honours Tin Hau (known here as A-Ma), the patroness of fisherfolk and one of the ter- Cotai. But the most ambitious project by far Architecture ritory’s most popular goddesses. The best place to see the festival is at the A-Ma Temple in the Inner Harbour. This is the proposed 36km-long, US$3.7-billion, Portuguese architectural styles reflect a vari- festival will fall on 28 April in 2008, 18 April in 2009 and 6 May in 2010. ety of forms, from Romanesque and Gothic Birthday of the Lord Buddha/Feast of the Drunken Dragon Buddha’s statue is taken from monasteries and tem- MACAU six-lane cross-delta bridge linking Macau and MACAU Zhuhai with Hong Kong via Tai O on Lantau through to baroque and neoclassical, and ples and ceremoniously bathed in scented water on this day. It also marks the Feast of the Drunken Dragon, which Island. The Y-shaped bridge would reduce these are best seen in Macau’s churches. Two features dancing dragons in the streets of the Inner Harbour and a lot of legless merrymakers. 12 May in 2008, 2 May BACKGROUND the present four-hour journey by car between excellent examples are the Chapel of St Joseph in 2009 and 21 May in 2010. BACKGROUND Zhuhai and Hong Kong to 20 minutes. Seminary (p322 ) , completed in 1758, and the Procession of our Lady of Fatima The procession goes from Macau Cathedral to the Chapel of Our Lady of Penha to Church of St Dominic (p321 ) , a 17th-century commemorate a series of apparitions by the Virgin Mary to three peasant children at Fatima in Portugal in 1917. This replacement of a chapel built in the 1590s. falls on 13 May each year. ARTS Civic buildings worth close inspection are Macau Arts Festival (www.icm.gov.mo) Macau’s red-letter arts event kicks off the cultural year with music, drama the Leal Senado ( p319 ), erected in 1784 but and dance from both Asia and the West. Painting rebuilt after it was damaged by a typhoon Macau Open Golf Tournament (www.sport.gov.mo) Part of the Asian PGA Tour, this event is held at the Macau Golf Macau can lay claim to having spawned or a century later; and the Government House & Country Club on Coloane and attracts the region’s best golfers. influenced a number of artists. Their work is (p322 ) , dating from 1849. on display in the Gallery of Historical Pictures Macau has seen a surge of skyscrapers go June of the Macau Museum of Art (p323 ) . up, changing its skyline drastically. Macau Festival This festival is also known as Tuen Ng (Double Fifth) as it falls on the fifth day of the fifth moon. The most important Western artist to have Tower (p324 ) is a 338m-tall copy of the Sky It commemorates the death of Qu Yuan, a poet-statesman of the 3rd century BC, who hurled himself into the Mi Lo lived in Macau was George Chinnery (see the Tower in Auckland, New Zealand. The land- River in Hunan province to protest against a corrupt government; dragon-boat races take place and traditional rice boxed text, below ). Other influential European mark Grand Lisboa Casino (p341 ) , an ugly, dumplings are eaten in memory of the event. The festival will fall on 8 June in 2008, 28 May in 2009 and 16 June 2010. painters who spent time in Macau include the 52-storey lotus-shaped golden structure, will Scottish physician Thomas Watson (1815–60), Macau Lotus Flower Festival The symbol of Macau is the focus of this festival, which sees lotuses blossoming in be the tallest building in Macau upon its com- parks and gardens throughout Macau. who was a student of Chinnery and lived in pletion in late 2007. July FIVB Women’s Volleyball Grand Prix (www.sport.gov.mo) This is one of the most important women’s volleyball GEORGE CHINNERY: CHRONICLER OF MACAU tournaments in the region. Though George Chinnery may enjoy little more than footnote status in the history of world art, as a chronicler of his own world (colonial Macau) and his times (the early 19th century) he is without peer. In the absence of photography, taipans September/October (‘big bosses’ of large companies) and mandarins turned to trade art (commissioned portraiture), and Chinnery was the Macau International Fireworks Display Contest This event, the largest of its kind in the world, adds a splash of master of the genre. Today he is known less for his formal portraits and paintings of factory buildings and clipper ships colour to the Macau night sky in autumn. than for his landscapes and sometimes fragmentary sketches of everyday life. October/November Chinnery was born in London in 1774 and studied at the Royal Academy of Arts before turning his hand to portrait painting in Dublin. He sailed for India in 1802 and spent the next 23 years in Madras and Calcutta, where he earned Macau International Music Festival (www.icm.gov.mo) This two-week festival is a heady mix of opera, musicals, substantial sums (up to UK£500 a month) as a popular portrait painter to British colonial society and spent most of it on visiting orchestras and other musical events. his opium addiction. He fled to Macau in 1825 to escape spiralling debts, Calcutta’s ‘cranky formality’ and his wife (whom Macau Formula 3 Grand Prix (www.macau.grandprix.gov.mo) Approximately 30 national championship drivers com- he described as ‘the ugliest woman I ever saw in my life’), and took up residence at 8 Rua de Inácio Baptista (Map p320 ), pete to take the chequered flag in Macau’s premier sporting event. The Grand Prix is held in the third week of November. just south of the Church of St Lawrence. He lived at this address until his death from stroke in 1852. Although Chinnery is sometimes ‘claimed’ by Hong Kong (the Mandarin Oriental hotel even has a bar named after December him), he visited the colony only once, during the hot summer of 1846. Although he was unwell and did not like it very Macau International Marathon (www.sport.gov.mo) Like its Hong Kong counterpart, this running event, which much, he managed to execute some vivid sketches of the place. takes place on the first Sunday in December, also includes a half-marathon.

310 311 lonelyplanet.com Visitors from the mainland accounted for Site by Unesco. The best way to see the sights lonelyplanet.com ONE-DAY ITINERARY 52% of total arrivals, with most of the bal- and to feel the uniqueness of Macau is to wan- ance coming from Hong Kong, Taiwan, Japan der through the squares and narrow alleys. If you only have a day in Macau, start by following the walking tour ( p314 ) to get a feel for the lay of the land and and the USA. As a result of this phenomenal Remember to pick up the excellent series of Macau’s living history. Spend an hour or so in the Macau Museum ( p319 ) to answer all the questions you’ll now have, boost, Macau’s economy expanded a record pamphlets by the Macau Government Tourist and walk to the ruins of the Church of St Paul ( p315 ). In the afternoon, hop on a bus for Taipa ( p327 ) and stroll through 23% in 2006. Office (MGTO) before you set off. the village to Avenida da Praia and the three-part Taipa House Museum ( p329 ). In the evening you should also walk Macau has some light industries, such as Macau is divided into three main sections: along peninsula Macau’s more dramatic Avenida da Praia Grande, stopping for a while at the Lisboa Casino ( p341 ) to textile, garment, toy and fireworks produc- the Macau Peninsula, which is attached to see what all the fuss is about. Have a sundowner drink or two along the Lan Kwai Fong ( p342 ) strip in NAPE and dinner tion, but factories have slowed down and mainland China to the north; the middle at the atmospheric Clube Militar de Macau ( p336 ) before catching the ferry back to Hong Kong. many companies have moved across the bor- island of Taipa, directly south of the penin- der. Unemployment in Macau is currently sula and linked to it by the 2.5km-long Ponte The feverish construction in Macau has of Hong Kong. However, the Portuguese around 3.8%. Governador Nobre de Carvalho (Macau– also given rise to a public outcry for heritage minority has a vastly different culture that Taipa Bridge), the 4.5km-long Ponte da conservation, especially since the Unesco- has evolved under a number of different Amizade (Friendship Bridge) and the new protected Guia Lighthouse ( p325 ) will be over- influences through the centuries. Colonial GOVERNMENT & POLITICS 2.2km-long covered, typhoon-proof Sai Van shadowed by skyscrapers in the NAPE area if Portuguese architecture survives throughout The executive branch of the Macau SAR gov- Bridge; and Coloane Island, south of Taipa they are built as planned. Macau, and Portuguese food is to be found ernment is led by the chief executive, who is and connected to it by recent massive land- in abundance. chosen by an electoral college made up of 200 reclamation efforts. Macanese culture is different again. Un- local representatives. Edmund Ho, a popu-

MACAU Literature like the Portuguese and Chinese communities lar Macau-born banker, was selected for his MACAU Macau’s home-grown writers are not insig- elsewhere in the world, the Macanese com- second (and, by law, final) five-year term in ORGANISED TOURS nificant; you’ll sample their work at the Macau munity, a tiny community of the descendents 2004. Tours booked on the ground in Macau BACKGROUND & SIGHTS NEIGHBOURHOODS Museum (p319 ) . of intermarriages between Portuguese and The Legislative Assembly, which sits in its are generally much better value than those First and foremost in literature was Portu- Asians, is very distinct and exists solely in own purpose-built assembly hall on reclaimed booked in Hong Kong, though the latter in- gal’s national poet, Luís de Camões (1524–80), Macau. They have a unique cuisine, set of land in the Nam Van Lakes area, now perma- clude transportation to and from Macau and who was banished from Portugal to Goa and festivals and traditions, and even their own nently consists of 29 members, 12 of whom sometimes a side trip across the border to then apparently to Macau in the 16th century. dialect called patuá. The do (traditional wom- are directly elected in geographical constitu- Zhuhai. Tours from Hong Kong are usually He is said to have written part of his epic poem an’s outfit) has long disappeared, though you encies, 10 chosen by interest groups and seven one-day whirlwind tours, departing for Macau Os Lusiadas (The Lusiads), which recounts may catch a glimpse of it at certain festivals. appointed by the chief executive. in the morning and returning to Hong Kong the 15th-century voyage of Vasco da Gama Portuguese and Chinese – Cantonese being Like Hong Kong, Macau has primary on the same evening. Gray Line (%in Hong Kong to India, during the two years he lived in the the more widely spoken dialect – are both courts, intermediate courts and a Court of 2368 7111; www.grayline.com.hk) offers such a tour enclave, but there is no firm evidence that he official languages of Macau. For key phrases Final Appeal. for HK$690/$720 on weekdays/weekends was ever in Macau. and words in Cantonese and Portuguese, see (child under 10 HK$620/$650). The teacher, judge, opium addict and p353. Quality Tours organised by the MGTO and Symbolist poet Camilio de Almeida Pes- For the vast majority of Macau Chinese NEIGHBOURHOODS & tendered to agents such as Gray Line (Map pp316–17; sanha (1867–1926; author of such works as people, Taoism and Buddhism are the domi- %2833 6611; Rua do Campo; h9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat) Clepsidra) lived in Macau for the last 30 years nant religions (see the boxed text, p43 ). Four SIGHTS take around 6½ hours (adult/child under 10 of his life; he is buried in the Cemetery of and a half centuries of Portuguese Christian For such a tiny city, Macau is packed with including museum and tickets St Michael the Archangel ( p325 ). Local-born rule left its mark, however, and the Roman many important cultural and historical sights, MOP$200/$150). writers include Henrique de Senna Fernandes Catholic Church is very strong in Macau, with including eight squares and 22 historic build- The Tour Machine, run by Avis Rent A Car (1923–), author of the Nam Wan collection an estimated 30,000 (about 6% of the popula- ings that have collectively been named the (Map pp316–17; %2833 6789; www.avis.com.mo; Room of short stories and the novel The Bewitching tion) adherents. Macau consists of a single World Heritage 1022, Ground fl, Macau ferry terminal; h8am-7pm), is a Braid, and the much-beloved Macanese writer diocese, directly responsible to Rome. replica 1920s-style English bus that seats nine José dos Santos Ferreira (1919–93), known people and runs on fixed routes in about two as Adé, who wrote in patuá, a dialect forging POPULATION & PEOPLE hours past some of Macau’s most important Portuguese and Cantonese. A statue in hon- ECONOMY Macau’s population is approximately 513,000, with sights (adult/child under 12 MOP$150/$80). our of Adé, who wrote plays, operettas and Tourism and gambling still drive Macau’s an annual growth rate of 5.8%. Population density is You’re allowed to disembark, stretch your legs poems, stands in the Jardim des Artes along economy, and the latter remains Macau’s more than 17,952 people per sq km. While the north- and take photos along the way. There are two Avenida da Amizade, opposite the Landmark major cash cow; today gambling concessions ern part of the peninsula is one of the most densely departures a day (11am and 3pm) from the Macau building, and you can hear a record- contribute some 70% of government revenue populated areas, Coloane Island has remained essen- Macau ferry terminal. ing of him reading his poetry in the Macau through betting tax. tially rural, but Taipa is rapidly becoming an urban Museum. Tourism usually generates almost half of extension of Macau Peninsula.

Macau’s GDP, and about a third of the la- The population is about 95% Chinese. Fewer than MACAU PENINSULA bour force works in some aspect of it. In 2006 2% of Macau residents are Portuguese and the rest You’ll find the lion’s share of Macau’s muse- CULTURE Macau welcomed some 21 million tourists ums, churches, gardens, old cemeteries and Traditional culture among the Chinese of are Macanese (people of mixed Portuguese, Chinese and visitors, an increase of 31% over the previ- and/or African blood) or Filipino. important colonial buildings on the penin- Macau is almost indistinguishable from that ous year and almost 42 times its population. sula and, in July 2005, Unesco recognised 312 313 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com this wealth by adding the Historic Centre 2 Church of St Dominic Overlooking Largo 5 Monte Fort Begin climbing up Calçada do lice. Rua do Peixe Salgado (Street of Salted of Macau, comprising 25 distinct sites, to de São Domingos is this church (p321 ) , with its Monte, and once you reach Travessa do Artil- Fish) debouches into Rua do Almirante its World Heritage list. If you’re after more distinctive green shutters and doors. heiros, turn left. A cobbled path leads up to the Sérgio, where you should turn left. A short active pursuits, such as cycling, hiking and Monte Fort (p319 ) and the Macau Museum (p319 ) . distance south is the ever-active A-Ma Temple swimming, head for the islands (p343 ) . 3 Macau Cathedral On the southern side (p324 ) and opposite, across Rua de São Tiago of the square, you’ll spot a narrow road called 6 Ruins of the Church of St Paul Take the da Barra, is the ( p324 ). From Travessa de São Domingos. Follow this up to escalator down from the museum and walk here, you can follow Avenida da República MACAU PENINSULA WALKING Largo da Sé and Macau Cathedral (p319 ) . west to the façade of the Church of St Paul (right ) ; to Avenida da Praia Grande and Avenida de there’s a platform offering stunning views Almeida Ribeiro or hop on bus 5 or 7. TOUR over the town on the north side leading to 1 Largo do Senado Begin your tour of the 4 Lou Kau Mansion Housed on Travessa the former choir loft. peninsula in the beautiful ‘Square of the Sen- da Sé is Lou Kau Mansion ( p321 ), built in 1889. The Central Macau Peninsula ate’ in the heart of Macau, which is accessible street leads down into Rua de São Domingos. Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro – called San Ma from the ferry terminal on bus 3. On the south Take a right at the bottom of the hill and 7 Antique & Chinese Shops Walk down Lo (New St) in Cantonese, together with its side of the square facing Avenida de Almeida follow Rua de São Domingos and its exten- the impressive stone steps in front of the façade southern extension, Avenida do Infante Dom Ribeiro is the main post office, built in 1931, and sion, Rua de Pedro Nolasco da Silva, to the and continue south along Rua de São Paolo, Henrique – is the peninsula’s main thorough- nearby is the restored Museum of the Holy House of corner with Calçada do Monte. Just visible which is lined with antique shops (p332 ) . Turn fare. It effectively divides the narrow southern Mercy (p319 ) . From here, walk to the northeast- across the garden to the east is the Consulate right onto Rua das Estalagens, which is full of peninsula from central and northern Macau. ern end of the square. General of Portugal, housed in an exquisite co- traditional Chinese shops and, once you reach Rua In the centre of this long thoroughfare is the lonial mansion. de Camilo Pessanha, turn left. At the western charming square, Largo do Senado. Bus 3 MACAU MACAU end of this street, turn left again into Avenida will bring you to the city centre, or take a 0 250 m de Almeida Ribeiro and immediately on your MACAU PENINSULA WALKING TOUR 0 0.1 miles free casino shuttle to Grand Lisboa from the

NEIGHBOURHOODS & SIGHTS NEIGHBOURHOODS neiro left you’ll pass the Pawnshop Museum (p322 ) . & SIGHTS NEIGHBOURHOODS Rua de D Belchior Car ferry terminal. The sights are within walking R 6 u a 6 distance from the casino. d Ru e a S 5 8 Leal Senado Continue along Avenida de d ã Rua das Estalagens a o T Macau e P a Cç de Almeida Ribeiro. After passing the Leal Senado rc u Museum e l o São Paulo Rua do Pagode n RUINS OF THE CHURCH OF ST PAUL a (p319 ) , turn right onto Rua Central, which Rua da Madeira Map p320 changes names several times as it heads south- 7 west for the Inner Harbour. If you’re feeling Ruinas de Igreja de São Paulo; Travessa de São peckish, you may want to stop for a bowl of Paulo; admission free Calçada do Pawnshop 2 The most famous sight in Macau, the Museum Monte caldo verde at Afonso III (p336 ) . s o A a a D v a de São façade and stairway are all that remain of h ss en Museum of Ru D c ve o i om ingos r Tra str d o a a the Holy House M d Tra Rua de Pedro L e this early-17th-century Jesuit church, called of Mercy da Sé s A vessa Nolasco da Silva a lm 4 Consulate 9 Church of St Augustine Towering above Inner d ei da General of Tai Sam Ba in Cantonese. With its wonder- Harbour a R u i Portugal this end of Rua Central is the Church of St Au- b Calcada de R e 1 i Sao Joao ful statues, portals and engravings that ro START 3 gustine (p322 ) and opposite that the Dom Pedro V o o Travessa d h effectively make up a ‘sermon in stone’ and l 8 de São a e Theatre (p321 ) . o d V Domingos ri a ande a Biblia pauperum (Bible of the poor), some à lç o raia Gr n c P i a da C n da m ro ni e T ve consider the ruins to be the greatest monu- S A A o 9 v d Rua Central 10 Largo do Lilau Follow Rua Central’s Dom en a i ment to Christianity in Asia to help the u d Pedro V a R Afonso d extensions, Rua de São Lourenço and Rua Theatre o illiterate understand the Passion of Christ Santo Agostinho III I ço Calçada de n Church of n fa da Barra, passing the Church of St Lawrence (p321 ) e n Rua de St Lawrence r te and the lives of the saints. Inác u io o D L o and Largo do Lilau; according to local folklore, B Sã m ao T The church was designed by an Italian t e r H is d a e t v Av n should you drink from the fountain in this a ua e r R P s en iq Jesuit and completed by early Japanese a s i u iv a d e T a a romantic square, it’s a given that you’ll return r do C P a o Christian exiles and Chinese craftsmen in a ve m dr ss é a er to Macau one day. N c 1602. It was abandoned after the expulsion a do ia io r l g ci d r so e é M of the Jesuits in 1762 and a military battalion S a e u t c a 11 Moorish Barracks Further on are these n o was stationed here. In 1835 a fire erupted a r a de Bom Jesu H i Calçad s lm ra y enormous barracks, completed in 1874 and r e in the kitchen of the barracks, destroying A a l B o da n a a d u t now housing the offices of the maritime po- R 10 S everything, except what you see today. a u r R o t

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lonelyplanet.com MACAU NEIGHBOURHOODS & SIGHTS 316 lonelyplanet.com monstrances and oil paintings, including a This wonderful museum housed in the lonelyplanet.com MACAU PENINSULA copy of a 17th-century painting depicting fort tells the story of the hybrid territory the martyrdom of 26 Japanese Christians of Macau through a host of multimedia INFORMATION (pp350-2) Macau Security Forces Museum Serrdura ≭६࿰ ...... 56 D3 .BookaChino ...... 1 D6 ▇䭔ֱᅝ䚼䱞म⠽仼...... (see 32) Wing Lei ∌߽䒦 ...... (see 38) by crucifixion at Nagasaki in 1597. The exhibits Conde Saõ Januário Central Hospital adjoining crypt contains the remains of the On the 1st level, the Genesis of Macau 2 ቅ䷖䝿䰶 ...... D5 ▇䭔㤊᭛࣪仼...... (see 22) ENTERTAINMENT (pp340-1) martyrs, as well as those of Vietnamese and exhibit takes you through the early history CTM Main Office ▇䭔䳏㿞㐑ᑫ ..... 3 D4 Macau Tower ▇䭔ᮙ䘞ศ...... 26 B8 Jai Alai Show Palace Immigration Department ܹ๗㰩...4 E5 Macau Wine Museum ಲ࡯㡋呫㟲ৄ...... 57 E5 other Japanese Christians killed in the 17th of the territory, with parallel developments 䦵␪䝿䰶 ...... 5 C4 㨵㧘䜦म⠽仼...... (see 36) Mandarin Oriental Casino century. Also here is the recently unearthed in the East and the West compared and MGTO Branch ᮙ䘞䃂䀶㰩...... (see 78) Maritime Museum ⍋џम⠽仼.... 27 A7 ᵅᮍ࿯ῖจ...... (see 69) tomb of Alessandro Valignano, the Jesuit contrasted. The section devoted to the ter- 58 MGTO Branch ᮙ䘞䃂䀶㰩...... (see 14) Old Protestant Cemetery Nicole Fashion Club...... E6 who founded the College of the Mother ritory’s religions is excellent. Unesco Internet Café ...... 6 D6 ෎ⴷᬭງจ...... 28 C4 Pharaoh's Palace Casino Oriental Foundation ᵅᮍ෎䞥᳗ (see 8) ⊩㗕⥟ᆂ↓࿯ῖจ...... 59 D6 of God and is credited with establishing On the 2nd level (Popular Arts & Tradi- -ᑿ...... 29 D3 Sands Macau 䞥≭࿯ῖจ...... 60 E6 Christianity in Japan. tions of Macau), you’ll see and hear everyםSIGHTS (pp313-32) Ox Warehouse ⠯᠓ A-Ma Temple ႑䭷ᒳ...... 7 A7 Residence of the Portuguese Consul Star World Casino ᯳䱯࿯ῖจ .....61 D6 thing from a re-created firecracker factory, Bishop's Palace...... (see 10) General 㨵೟䷬џᑰ㄀...... 30 B7 ᵅᮍ෎䞥᳗᳗ഔ ...... 8 B4 Santa Sancha Palace...... 31 B7 DRINKING (p342) LEAL SENADO Map p320 and a chá gordo (fat tea) of 20 dishes 62 Cemetery of St Michael the Archangel St Francis Barracks ࡴᗱ⃘⚂ৄ.....32 C6 Casablanca Café ...... D7 163 Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro enjoyed on a Sunday, to the recorded 㽓⋟ງจ ...... 9 C5 St Francis Garden...... 33 C6 Moonwalker Bar ໰ܝᵃ䜦৻ ...... 63 D7 cries of street vendors selling items such 64 Facing Largo do Senado to the west is Chapel of Our Lady of Guia Sun Yat Sen Memorial Home MP3...... D7 as brooms, tea and scrap metal. You can 㘪↡䲾ഄ↓㘪ූ ...... (see 14) ᄿЁቅᬙሙ...... 34 D4 Vasco Ь乼ᒞ...... (see 69) Macau’s most important historical build- Chapel of Our Lady of Penha Tap Seac Gallery ศ⷇㮱᭛仼...... 35 D4 Whisky Bar...... (see 61) ing, the 18th-century ‘Loyal Senate’, which also hear a recording of the poet José dos Џᬭቅᇣᬭූ ...... 10 B7 Tourist Activities Centre now houses the Instituto para os Assun- Santos Ferreira (1919–93), known as Adé, Chapel of St Michael ...... (see 9) 36 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp343-5) MACAU ᮙ䘞⌏ࢩЁᖗ...... E5 reading from his work in local dialect. MACAU Church of St Anthony Canidrome 䘌೦⢫จ...... 65 C3 tos Cívicos e Municipais (IACM; Civic and 㘪ᅝ໮ሐᬭූ ...... 11 B5 SHOPPING (pp332-3) Macau Sports Institute ) and the mayor’s The top-floor Contemporary Macau 66 Fire Services Museum New Yaohan ܿⱒԈ...... 37 E5 ▇䭔储㚆ᅌ䰶...... D5 exhibit focuses on the latest architecture,

NEIGHBOURHOODS & SIGHTS NEIGHBOURHOODS office. It is so-named because the body & SIGHTS NEIGHBOURHOODS ⍜䰆म⠽仼 ...... 12 C4 Wynn Macau Casino ∌߽...... 38 D7 literature and urban-development plans. SLEEPING (pp345-8) sitting here refused to recognise Spain’s Ѡ啡ଢ଼݀೦...... 13 E4 Grand Prix Museum EATING (pp333-40) Guia Hotel ᵅᳯ⋟䜦ᑫ ...... 67 D5 sovereignty during the 60 years that it oc- 68 ໻䋑䒞म⠽仼 ...... (see 36) A Lorcha 㠍ሟ...... 39 A7 Lisboa Hotel 㨵Ҁ䜦ᑫ ...... C6 cupied Portugal. MACAU CATHEDRAL Map p320 Guia Fort ᵅᳯ⋟⚂ৄ...... 14 D5 Almirante Lacerda City Market Mandarin Oriental 69 In 1654, a dozen years after Portuguese A Sé Catedral; Largo da Sé; h8am-6pm Guia Hill Air Raid Shelter 䰆ぎ⋲ ..15 D5 ㋙㸫Ꮦ...... 40 C3 ᭛㧃ᵅᮍ䜦ᑫ...... E6 70 sovereignty was re-established, King João East of Largo do Senado is the cathedral, Guia Lighthouse ᵒቅ➜ศ ...... (see 14) Antica Trattoria da Isa...... 41 D7 Metro Park Hotel ㎁᱃䜦ᑫ...... D6 Handover of Macau Gifts Museum Bon Apetite 㕢ಐ㨵೟令ᓇ ...... 42 E7 Pousada de Mong Há ᳯॺ䊧仼...71 D3 IV ordered a heraldic inscription to be a not particularly attractive structure con- ▇䭔ಲ⅌䊔⾂䱇߫仼 ...... 16 E6 Camões 䊜ṙ຿㨵೟令ᓇ ...... 43 E6 Pousada de Saõ Tiago placed inside the senate’s entrance hall, secrated in 1850 to replace an earlier one 72 Kun Iam Statue & Ecumenical Centre Clube Militar de Macau 㘪ഄ⠭હ䜦ᑫ...... A8 and this can still be seen today. To the right badly damaged in a typhoon. The cathe- 17 44 Ritz Hotel ▴⩳䜦ᑫ ...... 73 B7 ,E7 䱌䒡ׅῖ䚼...... C6 dral, which was completely rebuilt in 1937 ...... ڣ䷇㾔 㾔䷇ූ...... 18 D3 Fat Siu Lau 2 ԯュῧ...... 45 D7 Rocks Hotel 㧞ᮃ䜦ᑫ...... 74 E6 of the entrance hall is the IACM Gallery (%988 Lin Fung Temple 㫂ዄᒳ...... 19 D2 Furusato ᮄᬙ䞠...... (see 55) Wynn Macau ∌߽▇䭔...... (see 38) 4180; admission free; h9am-9pm Tue-Sun), which has some notable stained-glass windows Lin Zexu Memorial Hall Henri's Galley 㕢ᖗѼ߽令ᓇ...... 46 B7 and is very active during major Christian TRANSPORT (pp348-50) features changing exhibits. On the 1st floor ᵫࠛᕤ㋔ᗉ仼 ...... 20 D2 La Comedie Chez Vous...... 47 E6 75 % festivals and holy days in Macau. Lou Lim Ioc Garden ⲻᒝ㢹݀೦ ..21 D4 Litoral ⍋☷令ᓇ...... 48 A7 Air Macau ▇䭔㟾ぎ ...... D6 is the Senate Library ( 2857 2233; admission free; Lou Lim Ioc Pavilion ⲻᒝ㢹݀೦.22 D4 Long Wa 啡㧃㤊ῧ...... 49 C3 Avis Rent A Car...... (see 78) h1-7pm Mon-Sat), which has a collection of Avis Rent A Car...... 76 E6 Luís de Camões Garden & Grotto Mang Pan Koi ৡકሙ ...... 50 D4 some 18,500 books, and wonderful carved MUSEUM OF THE HOLY HOUSE OF China Travel Service ...... 77 D6 ⱑ匓Ꮆ݀೦ ...... 23 B4 O Porto ༻⊶⠒೪...... 51 D3 Ёᮙ⼒ 78 wooden furnishings and panelled walls. MERCY Map p320 Macau Convention & Entertainment O Porto Interior ...... 52 A7 Ferry Terminal ໪␃⺐丁 ...... E5 ܻ␃令ᓇ 79 Centre ▇䭔᳗ሩ࿯ῖЁᖗ...... (see 26) Os Gatos ...... (see 72) Free casino shuttle buses...... E5 Núcleo Museológico da Santa Casa da Misericórdia; Free casino shuttle buses...... 80 C2 Macau Cultural Centre Portas Do Sol 㨵Ҁ᮹呫 ...... (see 55) %2857 3938; 2 Travessa da Misericórdia; adult/ Gray Line...... 81 C5 MONTE FORT Map p320 ▇䭔᭛࣪Ёᖗ ...... 24 E6 Praia Grande ...... 53 B7 㕢呫☷㨵ᓣ令ᓇ Guia Cable Car Lower Terminus ...82 D4 h student & senior over 65 MOP$5/free; h10am- Macau Fisherman's Wharf ...... 25 E6 Restaurante Tenis Civil Leon ; 7am-7pm Guia Cable Car Upper Terminus....83 E5 Macau Museum of Art 54 On a hill and accessible by an escalator just 5.30pm Mon-Sat ߽ᅝ令ᓇ...... B7 Happy Rent A Car...... (see 78) ▇䭔㮱㸧म⠽仼 ...... (see 24) 55 Established in 1569, it is the oldest social Robuchon a Galera...... C6 Heliport ...... 84 F5 east of the ruins of the Church of St Paul, Monte Fort was built by the Jesuits be- institution in Macau, serving as a home tween 1617 and 1626 as part of the College to orphans and prostitutes in the 18th flowers: the peony, representing China, and Blessed Francisco de Borja; St Ignatius of the Mother of God. Barracks and store- century. Today it is a two-room museum the chrysanthemum, a symbol of Japan. To Loyola, the founder of the order; St Francis houses were designed to allow the fort to containing items related to the house, the right of the Virgin is a carving of the tree Xavier, the apostle of the Far East; and survive a two-year siege, but the cannons including religious artefacts; Chinese, Japa- of life and the apocalyptic woman (Mary) Blessed Luís Gonzaga. were fired only once: during the aborted nese and European porcelain; the skull of slaying a seven-headed hydra; the Chinese attempt by the Dutch to invade Macau in its founder and Macau’s first bishop, Dom Belchior Carneiro; and a portrait of Martha characters next to her read ‘the holy mother MUSEUM OF SACRED ART & CRYPT 1622 ( p307 ). tramples the heads of the dragon’. To the Merop, an orphan who became a tycoon Map p320 and a patron of the House, painted shortly left of the central statue of Mary, a ‘star’ MACAU MUSEUM Map p320 Museu de Arte Sacra e Cripta; Travessa de São before her death. Its restaurant (%2833 5220; guides a ship (the Church) through a storm h Museu de Macau; %2835 7911; Praceta do Museu Paolo; admission free; 9am-6pm h10am-6pm Mon-Sat) at the basement serves (sin); a carving of the devil is to the left. This small museum behind the ruins of de Macau, Fortaleza do Monte; adult/child under The 4th tier has statues of four Jesuit 11, student & senior over 60 MOP$15/8, 15th of very affordable and decent meals during the Church of St Paul contains polychrome lunch time. doctors of the Church (from left to right): carved wooden statues, silver chalices, month admission free; h10am-6pm Tue-Sun 318 319 lonelyplanet.com MACAU NEIGHBOURHOODS & SIGHTS 321

F4 F4 F3 F4 F3 E2 E4 E4 E3 E2 E3 E2 E4 C2 C2 C2 D2 D1 D2 D1 D2 51 50 49 55 56 46 48 47 43 41 40 39 53 57 58 42 45 44 52 54 Map p320 Map ...... Map p320 Map ...... (see 49) ...... (see 49) ᵅѲ䜦ᑫ ...... 㨵Ҁ࿯ῖจ 咗ᵱ㿬 䱊䱊ሙ ᮄ呫㧃䜦ᑫ ䷸ᖋ㸠 ...... 㙅ᑥ 2893 9646; Calçada do ...... 㽓फ仃ᑫ ≭߽᭛令ᓇ कಯ㰳⺐丁 бབഞ % ⯟⢖Ꮘ咢㡋㟲೬ 㣅ⱛᆂ↓࿯ῖจ ᮄ㨵Ҁ ⱒ߽՚䍙㋮Ꮦจ Ё೟㟾ぎ ℻䮰ᅶ䘟キ ᮄ㧃ᮙᑫ ENTERTAINMENT (pp340-2) Crazy Paris Show Grand Lisboa Casino D2 ...... Emperor Palace Casino Solmar Eight 8 The Sky 21...... (see 47) SLEEPING (pp345-7) Augusters Lodge...... Wong Chi Kei Chi Wong U Tac Hong Sai Nam Tou Tou Koi Koi Tou Tou Platão Platão Ou Mun Café...... Pavilions Supermercado Hotel Sintra Hotel East Asia Hotel San Va Hospedaria TRANSPORT (pp348-50) Buses to Islands ...... China National Aviation Corporation CoMotor Kwan Road Kee 14 Pier F3 F1 E2 E2 E2 E1 E3 E2 E1 E1 E2 E1 E2 D2 D2 D1 D2 D2 35 21 38 37 33 34 32 22 23 30 24 26 27 36 25 28 29 31 ...... (see 26) ...... 10am-4pm ...... (see 7) ...... Teatro V THEATRE DOM PEDRO V; Dom Pedro Teatro this St Augustine, Church of the Opposite built in neoclassical theatre colonnaded, in theatre 1858 is the oldest European used for cultural China and is sometimes performances. OF ST LAWRENCE CHURCH de São Lourenço; Igreja de São Lourenço; Rua h fashionable church Macau’s most Enter origi- Nacional. The da Imprensa from Rua the 1560s but was nal was built of wood in and lattice carvings lattice and well as as on windows, Interest- architecture. hybrid East-West some kitchen is no ingly there as the mansion, in to supposed were concubines the owner’s cook. rather than him pleasure bring ...... (see 18) ...... (see ➳ഄ㸫Ꮦ ੔佭೦ 䛉ᬓ㐑ሔ ...... ા০ᒳ ...... 㡃䖄⊩೟令ᓇ ཇၻᒳ ...... ⬭㙆ⅆ᳜䷇䷓म⠽仼 )...... (see 12) ...... (see ...... ໻⚂ৄ ԯュῧ Ѳ䈤㋴ϝϪ令ᓇ ...... 啡㿬 䠙㿬 ᄥᐔ㔚ེ ( ໽Џᬭ㮱㸧म⠽仼㟛๧ᅸ ҕ᜜ූम⠽仼 ⇥ᬓ㐑㕆೪᳌仼 ໻ϝᏈ 㘪⠽ᇊᑿ ݌⭊ὁሩ⼎仼 ϝ㸫᳗仼 Electronics) Electronics) La Bonne Heure Long Kei Long Don Alfonso 1890...... (see 49) Lau Fat Siu Traditional Shops...... EATING (pp333-8) Afonso III Caravela...... Monte Fort Monte Museum of Sacred Art & Crypt Museum Holy of the House of MercyMuseum Na Tcha Temple Nu Wa Temple Koi Kei Koi Ruins of the Church of St Paul St Paul of Church the of Ruins ArtSacred Treasury of Flea Market...... PostMain Office Market Dominic St Pawnshop Museum Museum Pawnshop SHOPPING (pp332-3) HeongChoi Yuen  Sam Kai Sam Kai Vui Kun Temple Senate Library Sound ofthe Century Museum (Tai Peng Map p320 p320 Map Treasury of Sacred Treasury of Sacred F4 E3 E3 E2 F3 E3 E3 E2 F3 E2 E3 E3 E2 D4 D3 D4 D3 D4 D4 D1 3 1 2 6 4 5 8 7 9 10 19 20 18 12 11 13 14 15 16 17 2836 7706; admission 2836 7706; admission ... Map p320 Map ...(see 18) ...... (see 21) ...... % ...... (see 26) ...... (see 25) ...... 399 6699; 7 Travessa Sé; da ...... ያ䷖࡛䰶 ...... ⥿⩄ූ 9am-7pm Tue-Mon & public ᒋ݀ᒳ , an Aladdin’s cave of eccle- cave , an Aladdin’s )...... % ⲻᆊ໻ሟ ...... 䛉ᬓ㐑ሔ ▇䭔म⠽仼 h ...... ᮙ䘞䃂䀶㰩 ᮙ䘞䃂䀶㰩 Ё೟䡔㸠໻ॺ ᭛᳗࣪仼 ⇥ᬓ㐑㕆ሩ㾑ᓇ ⇥ᬓ㐑㕆 ▇䭔䳏㿞 ਥᢎᐳၴ ( 10am-6pm) ः䈤䡔㸠 h ໻ූ ▇䭔೟䱯䡔㸠 ໻㽓⋟䡔㸠 㘪㋘㗄ׂ䰶ঞ㘪ූ 㘪༻ᮃᅮᬭූ ܿ㾦ҁ೪᳌仼 㘪㗕ἲԤᬭූ ⡍औᬓᑰ㐑䚼 10am-6pm (Tresouro de Arte Sacra; INFORMATION (pp350-2) Macau Cathedral Cathedral Macau Macau Museum Lou Kau Mansion CTM Branch CTM Branch Banco Comercial deBanco Comercial Macau Banco Nacional Ultramarino ChinaBank of HSBC PostMain Office Leal Senado Livararia...... MGTO Branch MGTO Branch SIGHTS (pp315-22) of St Joseph Seminary Chapel of St Augustine Church Chinese Reading Room Reading Room Chinese of St Dominic Church of St LawrenceChurch Club Cultural V Theatre Dom Pedro George Chinnery House 䣶㋡߽ᬙሙ Government House Hong Kung Temple IACM Gallery CENTRAL MACAU PENINSULA CENTRAL MACAU

Art free; LOU KAU MANSION MANSION LOU KAU Casa de Lou Kau; admission free; this well-pre- is Near the Macau Cathedral served traditional Cantonese-style mansion to tycoon Lou Wabuilt in 1889. It belonged who made his for- Sio, father of Lou Lim Ioc, 19th century. The tunes in Macau during the brick relief mansion has kept elaborated its CHURCH OF ST DOMINIC DOMINIC OF ST CHURCH São Domingos; Largo de São Domingos; Igreja de h Northeast this 17th- do Senado, of Largo a replacement church is baroque century in the built by the Dominicans of a chapel contains the Today it 1590s. holidays, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun holidays, siastical art and liturgical objects exhibited objectssiastical art exhibited and liturgical floors. on three

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CENTRAL MACAU PENINSULA MACAU CENTRAL 0 0.2 miles 0.2 0 0 300 m 300 0

lonelyplanet.com MACAU NEIGHBOURHOODS & SIGHTS 320 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com reconstructed in stone in the early 19th The 200-year-old Hong Kung Temple (Map p320 ; Cars from the Macau Formula 3 Grand century and has a magnificent painted ceil- Hong Kung Miu; cnr Rua das Estalagens & Rua de Cinco Southern Macau Peninsula Prix, including the bright-red Triumph TR2 Southern Macau Peninsula encompasses three de Outubro; h8am-6pm) is for worshipping Li driven by Eduardo de Carvalho that won ing. One of the church towers once served areas: that around the extensively renovated Lie, a general during the Han dynasty. The the first Grand Prix in 1954, are on display, as an ecclesiastical prison. Macau Forum, a conference and exhibition boat-shaped sculpture in the middle of the while simulators let you test your racing space, and Tourist Activities Centre hous- main hall is for offering wine to the deities skills. CHAPEL OF ST JOSEPH SEMINARY ing two worthwhile museums; the rectangle during religious festivities. Map p320 of reclaimed land called NAPE to the south; Capela do Seminário São José; Rua do Seminário; and the southwest corner of the peninsula. MACAU SECURITY FORCES MUSEUM h10am-5pm GOVERNMENT HOUSE Map p320 While buses 8, 12 and 17, leaving from Ilha Map pp316–17 To the southwest of the Dom Pedro V Thea- Sede do Governo; cnr Avenida da Praia Grande & Verde, the ferry terminal and Luís de Camães Museu das Forças de Segurança de Macau; %2855 tre is the Chapel of St Joseph, consecrated Travessa do Padré Narciso Garden respectively, will take you to NAPE, 9999; Calçada dos Quartéis; admission free; in 1758 as part of a Jesuit seminary. Its South of the Church of St Lawrence is the free casino shuttles provided by Sands, h9am-5.45pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun 19m-high domed ceiling has exceptionally monumental Government House, a pillared, Babylon, Wynn Macau and Star World are Housed in the 17th-century St Francis Bar- fine acoustics, and the church is used as a rose-coloured building erected for a Por- an alternative. racks (Quartéis de São Francisco; Map pp316–17 ) , this concert venue. tuguese noble in 1849. It’s now the head- museum has two rooms of exhibits relating quarters of the Macau SAR government. MACAU CULTURAL CENTRE Map pp316–17 to the police and their work. The building It is open to the public for a day, usually CHURCH OF ST AUGUSTINE Map p320 Centro Cultural de Macau; %2870 0699, 2855 is set in the lovely St Francis Garden (Jardim de São scheduled in September or October. Igreja de Santo Agostinho; Largo de São Agostinho; 5555; www.ccm.gov. mo; Avenida Xian Xing Hai; Francisco; Map pp316–17 ) . h10am-6pm MACAU h9am-7pm Tue-Sun MACAU Southwest of Largo do Senado via Rua Cen- CHINESE READING ROOM Map p320 This US$100-million centre is the territory’s MACAU WINE MUSEUM Map pp316–17 tral is the Church of St Augustine. Though Rua de Santa Clara; h9am-noon & 7-10pm Tue- prime venue for theatre, opera and other Museu do Vinho de Macau; %798 4188; Basement, NEIGHBOURHOODS & SIGHTS NEIGHBOURHOODS its foundations date from 1586, the present Sat, 9am-10pm Sun cultural performances. CAT, 431 Rua de Luís Gonzaga Gomes; adult/child & SIGHTS NEIGHBOURHOODS church was built in 1814. The high altar has This attractive octagonal structure, with under 11 & senior over 60/child under 19 MOP$15/ a statue of Christ bearing the cross, which is its double stone staircase and little round MACAU MUSEUM OF ART Map pp316–17 free/5, adult with Grand Prix Museum MOP$20; tower, is a wonderful mix of Chinese and carried through the streets during the Pro- Museu de Arte de Macau; %791 9814; www.art h10am-6pm Wed-Mon Portuguese styles that could only be found cession of the Passion of Our Lord on the first museum.gov.mo; Avenida Xian Xing Hai; adult/child This museum is a rather inert display of in Macau. Saturday of Lent ( p311 ). At the time of writing, under 12 & student/senior over 65 MOP$5/3/free, wine racks, barrels, presses and tools used the church was closed for maintenance. Sun admission free; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun by wine makers, as well as a rundown of PAWNSHOP MUSEUM Map p320 This vast five-storey complex within the Portugal’s various wine regions. Some of SAM KAI VUI KUN TEMPLE Map p320 Casa de Penhores Tradicional; %2892 1811; 396 Macau Cultural Centre houses some excel- the recent wines of the more than 1300 on Sam Kai Vui Kun; Rua Sui do Mercado de São Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro; admission MOP$5; lent exhibits and permanent collections display are available for tasting, which is Domingos; h8am-6pm h 10.30am-7pm, closed 1st Mon of month of Chinese traditional art and paintings by included in the entry fee. Literally ‘a community hall for three streets’, Housed in the former Tak Seng On (Virtue Western artists who lived in Macau, such this temple was a meeting place for mer- and Success) pawnshop built in 1917, the as George Chinnery ( p310 ). There’s a library MACAU FISHERMAN’S WHARF chants then an adjudication court before museum incorporates the fortresslike eight- with art-related titles on the ground floor. Map pp316–17 the Chinese Chamber of Commerce came storey granite tower with slotted windows Doca dos Pescadores; www.fishermanswharf.com into existence in 1912. Also known as Kwan where goods were stored on racks or in KUN IAM STATUE Map pp316–17 .mo safes. Sharing the same building is the Cul- Tai Temple, dedicated to Kwan Yu, the god Estátua de Kun Iam; Avenida Doutor Sun Yat Sen Bordering the east of NAPE (pronounced tural Club (Map p320 ; Clube Cultural; %2892 1811; www of war and justice (see p67 ), it gets particu- This 20m-high bronze figure, emerging ‘NA-pay’), a rectangular area of reclaimed .culturalclub.net; 390 Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro; admission larly busy in May, June and July when locals Virgin Mary–like from a 7m-high lotus in land, is Macau Fisherman’s Wharf, a rather free; h10.30am-8pm), which claims to look at celebrate three festivals in the god’s honour. the outer harbour, is probably the only tacky ‘theme park’ built partially on re- various aspects of everyday life in Macau but statue of the goddess of mercy in the world claimed land. It combines attractions, ho- is little more than a souvenir shop. TEMPLES not facing the sea. It is quite relaxing once tels, shops, and restaurants, and is divided Macau has several interesting Chinese you’ve entered Kun Iam’s ‘blossom’ – the into three sections. Tang Dynasty focuses on temples dedicated to some important but SOUND OF THE CENTURY MUSEUM Kun Iam Ecumenical Centre (Centro Ecuménico Kun Iam; Chinese history and culture; East Meets West is lesser worshipped deities. Na Tcha Temple Map p320 %2875 1516; admission free; h10am-6pm Sat-Thu). a 30m-high working volcano, an Africa Fort (Map p320 ; Nat Tcha Miu; Rua de São Paolo; free admis- %2892 1389; www.tai-peng.com/antique; Information is available on Buddhism, Tao- funfair for kids, and the Greek Square lei- sion; h8am-5pm), sitting quietly beside the [email protected]; 3rd fl, 13-15 Rua Das Estala- ism and Confucianism. sure and performance park; and Legend Wharf Ruins of the Church of St Paul, was built in gens; admission MOP$30; h11am-5pm features landmarks from around the world. Whether you are a phonograph enthusiast 1888 and dedicated to the child god of war GRAND PRIX MUSEUM Map pp316–17 or not, this private museum is eye-opening. HANDOVER OF MACAU GIFTS to halt the plague occurring at that time. Museu do Grande Prémio; %798 4108; Basement, The personal collections of the owner of Tai MUSEUM Map pp316–17 The Nu Wa Temple (Map p320 ; Nui Wo Miu; cnr Rua CAT, 431 Rua de Luís Gonzaga Gomes; adult/child das Estalagens & Travessa Dos Algibebes; free admission; Peng Electronics include 200 items, from Museu das Ofertas sobre a Transferência de Sobera- antique phonographs to tournaphones under 11 & senior over 60/child under 19 MOP$10/ h9am-5pm), also built in 1888, was conse- free/5, adult with Macau Wine Museum MOP$20; nia de Macau; %791 9800; Avenida Xian Xing Hai; crated to the Chinese equivalent of Gaia. and echophones dating back to as early as admission free; h10am-7pm Tue-Sun 1882. Prior appointment is required. h10am-6pm Wed-Mon 322 323 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com This new museum, next to the Macau h9am-5.30pm), once a place of pilgrimage Opposite the A-Ma Temple, the Maritime CASA GARDEN Map pp316–17 Cultural Centre, is a crowd-pleaser among for sailors. Museum has interesting boats and artefacts 13 Praça de Luís de Camões; g8A, 12, 26 visitors from the mainland. It displays from Macau’s seafaring past, a mock-up of This colonial villa, east of the Luís de Camões art pieces and handicrafts presented by MACAU TOWER Map pp316–17 a Hakka fishing village and displays of the Garden, was the headquarters of the Brit- China’s various provinces and regions to Torre de Macau; %2893 3339; www.macautower long, narrow boats that are raced during ish East India Company when it was based Macau to mark the return of Chinese sover- .com.mo; Largo da Torre de Macau; h10am-9pm the ( p311 ) in June. in Macau in the early 19th century. Today eignty in 1999. Some exhibits are kitsch in Mon- Fri, 9am-9pm Sat & Sun; g9A, 32, AP1 the villa houses the Oriental Foundation (Fundação the extreme. Macau Tower, at 338m, is the 10th-tall- Northern Macau Peninsula Oriente; %2855 4699; www.foriente.pt), an organi- est freestanding structure in the world; sation founded in 1996 to promote Portu- SOUTHWEST CORNER The northern part of the peninsula, encom- it stands on the narrow isthmus of land passing everything northwards from the Luís guese culture worldwide, and an exhibition The southwestern tip of the Macau Peninsula southeast of Avenida da República. The gallery (%398 1126; admission free; h10am-5.30pm has a number of important historical sights, de Camões Garden in the west and Guia Fort squat building at its base is the Macau Conven- in the east to the border with the mainland, Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm daily during special exhibitions), as it should – it was the first area of territory tion & Entertainment Centre. which houses both exhibits of Chinese an- to be settled. has a few important historic sites and divine The tower houses observation decks (adult/ gardens. With fewer tourists than other parts tiques, porcelain and contemporary art. child 3-12 & senior over 65 MOP$70/35) on the 58th of the peninsula, it’s an agreeable area for just A-MA TEMPLE Map pp316–17 and 61st floors; restaurants and bars such wandering about. OLD PROTESTANT CEMETERY Templo de A-Ma; Rua de São Tiago da Barra; as the revolving 360° Café (h11.30am-3pm, 3.30- Map pp316–17 h7am-6pm; g1, 1A, 5 4.15pm & 6-11pm) on the 60th floor; and the GUIA FORT Map pp316–17 15 Praça de Luís de Camões; h8.30am-5.30pm North of Barra Hill, this temple – called Ma

MACAU 180° Lounge (minimum charge MOP$100;hnoon-1am), Colina da Guia To the east of the Casa Garden is the final MACAU Kok Miu in Cantonese – is dedicated to a floor below it. resting place of many early non-Portuguese the goddess A-Ma, who is better known The fortress, built in 1638 atop the high- If none of this takes your fancy, you est point on the peninsula, was originally residents of Macau. As Church law forbade

NEIGHBOURHOODS & SIGHTS NEIGHBOURHOODS as Tin Hau (see the boxed text, p307 ). The & SIGHTS NEIGHBOURHOODS might be interested in the activities of the designed to defend the border with China, the burial of non-Catholics on hallowed original temple on this site was probably New Zealand–based extreme-sports com- ground, there was nowhere to inter Protes- already standing when the Portuguese but it soon came into its own as a lookout pany AJ Hackett (%988 8656), which organ- tants who died here, and they were often arrived, although the present one may only post. Storm warnings were sounded from ises all kinds of adventure climbs up and buried clandestinely in the nearby hills. The date back to the 17th century. At the main the bell in the quaint Chapel of Our Lady of Guia around the tower. governor finally allowed the British East entrance is a large boulder with a coloured (Capela de Nostra Señora da Guia; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun), The truly intrepid will go for the Mast India Company to establish the cemetery relief of a lorcha, a traditional sailing vessel built in 1622. The walls of the little church Climb (MOP$700 to MOP$1000), in which in 1821. A number of old graves were then of the South China Sea. The faithful make have interesting frescoes only discovered you go up and down the mast’s 100m transferred to the cemetery, which explains a pilgrimage here during the A-Ma Festival recently, and there’s a colourful choir loft of vertical ladders to the top in two the earlier dates on some of the tombstones. sometime between late April and early above the main entrance. On the floor hours. The Skywalk (weekdays/weekends Among the better-known people in- May. below is a tombstone with the inscription MOP$100/$120) is a twirl around the (in Latin): ‘Here lies at this gate the remains terred in this well-kept cemetery are the covered walkway – you’re attached to a of a Christian, by accident, for his body does artist George Chinnery (see the boxed text, AVENIDA DA REPÚBLICA Map pp316–17 lanyard – under the pod of the tower (on not deserve such an honourable sepulchre’. p310 ) and Robert Morrison (1782–1834), the Avenida da Praia Grande and Rua da Praia the 57th floor) and 216m above ground. It’s believed the deceased was buried here first Protestant missionary to China and au- do Bom Parto form an arc that leads into The Skywalk X (MOP$160/$190) is a rail- in 1687. The 15m-tall Guia Lighthouse (Farol da thor of the first Chinese-English dictionary. Avenida da República, the oldest section less walk around the outer rim, some 233m Guia; 1865) is the oldest lighthouse on the of Macau. Along here are several grand high, on the 61st floor. The faint-hearted China coast. It’s open on 18 May annually. CHURCH OF ST ANTHONY Map pp316–17 colonial villas not open to the public. The may try something closer to terra firma: the On clear days you can see Lantau Island Igreja de Santo António; cnr Rua de Santo António & former Bela Vista Hotel, one of the most- Flying Fox (MOP$30) is a 70m ‘flight’ on a from the fort, but the new skyscrapers in Rua do Tarrafeiro; h7.30am-5.30pm storied hotels in Asia, is now the residence zip line from one of the tower legs into a NAPE now block some of the view. Located just outside the Casa Garden and of the Portuguese consul general. Nearby is the large net; the Ironwalk (MOP$60) is an 8m- The 52m-long Guia Hill Air Raid Shelter (Abrigos next to the roundabout, this church, built ornate Santa Sancha Palace (Palacete de Santa Sancha; high walk via rope ladder around the legs Antiaéreos da Colina a Guia; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun), an from 1558 to 1608, is considered to be the Estrada de Santa Sancha), once the residence of of the tower, with a Flying Fox finish; and old military installation, was constructed in oldest in Macau and was the Jesuit’s earli- Macau’s Portuguese governors and now Long Ironwalk (MOP$80) is a vertical ver- 1931 and was off-limits until 1962. Photos est headquarters. The local Portuguese used to accommodate state guests. sion of the Ironwalk, some 23m up. Bungy of the history of the shelter and an elec- used to hold wedding ceremonies here, (MOP$888) is the world’s highest free fall, tricity generator used during WWII are on hence its name in Cantonese: Fa Vong Tong Map pp316–17 from a 233m-high platform, and the Sky display. (Church of Flowers). It burnt down three Colina da Penha Jump (MOP$588 to MOP$1088) is a slower The easiest way to reach the top of Guia times and the present architecture is a Towering above the colonial villas along version of Bungy. Hill is to hop on the little Guia Cable Car (Tel- restoration from 1930. Avenida da República is Penha Hill, from eférico da Guia; one way/return MOP$2/3) that runs where you’ll get an excellent view of the MARITIME MUSEUM Map pp316–17 from 8am to 6pm Tuesday to Sunday from CEMETERY OF ST MICHAEL THE central area of Macau and across the Pearl Museu Marítimo; %2859 5481; 1 Largo do Pagode just outside the entrance of the attractive ARCHANGEL Map pp316–17 River into China. The Bishop’s Palace (built da Barra; adult/senior over 65/child 10-17 Mon Flora Garden (Rua do Túnel; h6am-7pm), off Ave- Cemitério de São Miguel Arcanjo; 2A Estrada do in 1837) is here, as is the lovely Chapel of & Wed-Sat MOP$10/free/5, Sun MOP$5/free/3; nida de Sidónio Pais. Cemitério; h8am-6pm Our Lady of Penha (Capela de Nostra Señora da Penha; h10am-5.30pm Wed-Mon 324 325 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com This cemetery, northeast of Monte Fort, signed at a stone table in the terraced gar- This lovely garden is popular with local contains tombs and sepulchres that can dens at the back; a tablet marks the spot. Chinese, who use it to ‘walk’ their caged WALK FACTS only be described as baroque ecclesiastical songbirds or play Chinese chequers. In the works of art. Near the main entrance is the centre of the park is the Camões Grotto (Gruta Start Taipa House Museum SUN YAT SEN MEMORIAL HOME End Largo de Camões Chapel of St Michael (Capela de São Miguel; h10am- de Camões), which contains a 19th-cen- Map pp316–17 Distance 1km 6pm), a doll-sized, pea-green church with a tury bust of the one-eyed national poet of Casa Memorativa de Doutor Sun Yat Sen; %2857 Duration One to 1½ hours tiny choir loft and pretty porticoes. Portugal, Luís de Camões (see p312 ). 4064; 1 Rua de Silva Mendes; admission free; Fuel Stop Many along Rua do Regedor h10am-5pm Wed-Mon LOU LIM IOC GARDEN Map pp316–17 Around the corner from the Lou Lim Ioc FIRE SERVICES MUSEUM Map pp316–17 Jardim de Lou Lim Ioc; 10 Estrada de Adolfo de Garden, this museum is dedicated to the Museu de Bombeiros; %2857 2222; 2-6 Estrada de 2 Church of Our Lady of Carmel Walk up Loureiro; h6am-9pm; g12 founder of the Chinese Republic, Dr Sun Coelho do Amaral; admission free; h10am-6pm the steps to the 1885 Church of Our Lady of Carmel The cool and shady Lou Lim Ioc Garden Yat Sen (1866–1925). Dr Sun practised daily; g8 from the western end of Avenida da Praia. is the only Chinese-style garden you can medicine at the Kiang Wu Hospital on Rua Housed in the former headquarters of the The colonial library, opposite, is a recent repro- find in Macau. Local people use the park to Coelho do Amaral for a few years before Macau fire brigade, the museum holds a duction, replacing the original that had been practise t’ai chi or play traditional Chinese turning to revolution to overthrow the small but interesting collection of old fire pulled down illegally. Surrounding it are the musical instruments. Qing dynasty. The house, built in the mock trucks from the 1940s and ’50s, a manual pretty Carmel Gardens and just north is Calçada do pump from 1877, lots of helmets and boots. The renovated Victorian-style Lou Lim Ioc Moorish style popular at the time, contains Carmo, a positively delightful stepped lane lined Garden Pavilion (Pavilhão do Jardim de Lou Lim Ioc; a collection of flags, photos and documents with ancient banyans. %988 4128; admission free; h9am-9pm Tue-Sun) is relating to the life and times of the ‘Fa- MACAU TAIPA & COLOANE ISLANDS MACAU used for temporary exhibits and for recit- ther of the Nation’. It replaces the original Connected to the Macau mainland by three 3 Temples Following Avenida de Carlos da als during the Macau International Music house, which blew up while being used bridges and joined together by Cotai (an ever- Maia will take you past an old police school and

NEIGHBOURHOODS &NEIGHBOURHOODS SIGHTS Festival ( p311 ) in late October/November. as an explosives store. Sun’s first wife, Lu growing area of reclaimed land), Coloane and, into Rua da Correia Silva, which leads to a &NEIGHBOURHOODS SIGHTS Adjacent to the garden is the recently Muzhen, died in the upstairs back bedroom to a lesser extent, Taipa, are oases of calm small early-19th-century Tin Hau temple on Largo opened Macao Tea Culture House (Caultura do Chá in 1952. and greenery, with striking, pastel-coloured Governador Tamagnini Barbosa. Northeast, em Macau; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun), displaying the colonial villas, quiet lanes, decent beaches, just off Rua do Regedor, is Pak Tai Temple, dedi- tea culture with exhibits of TAP SEAC GALLERY Map pp316–17 and fine Portuguese and Macanese restau- cated to the guardian of peace and order. various teapots. Galeria Tam Seac; www.macauart.net/TS; 95 rants. By contrast, the Cotai Strip is develop- Avenida Conselheiro Ferreira de Almeida; h10am- ment central, with several new megacasinos 4 Markets The Taipa market is housed in a building at the end of the street. There’s a LIN FUNG TEMPLE Map pp316–17 6pm Tue-Sun; g9, 12 sprouting up. crafts market (hnoon-9pm Sun) Lin Fung Miu; Avenida do Almirante Lacerda; Also housed in a Moorish-style mansion weekly in Largo h10am-6.30pm; g 12 dating back to the 1920s, this gallery is de Camões. arguably the best place to view contempo- TAIPA WALKING TOUR Built in 1592 as a Taoist temple but now 1 Taipa House Museum Bus 28A from the dedicated to Kun Iam, it’s where manda- rary art in Macau, and exhibitions change regularly. Check its website for details. ferry terminal will take you to Taipa. Begin Taipa Island rins from Guangdong province would stay your tour by visiting the beautiful Macanese When the Portuguese first sighted Taipa (Tam when they visited Macau. The most cel- The gallery keeps the original patio in the middle of the house, which creates a light- villa built in 1921, which is now converted to Chai in Cantonese, Tanzai in Mandarin), it was ebrated of these visitors was Lin Zexu ( p21 ), the Taipa House Museum (p329 ) . actually two islands. Over the centuries the pair the commissioner charged with stamping filled, relaxed setting. out the opium trade, who stayed here in 0 200 m OX WAREHOUSE Map pp316–17 TAIPA WALKING TOUR 0 0.1 miles September 1839. The Lin Zexu Memorial Hall Rua do Supico Rua da Ponte Largo des e o Armazem de Boi; %2853 0026; www.oxware d t (Museu de Lin Zexu; %2855 0166; tourist adult/local Negra Bombeiros a in u P R s e io d house.blogspot.com; cnr Avenida do Coronel n adult/child under 8 & senior over 65 MOP$10/5/3; e en Carmel g M Eu Gardens Mesquita & Avenida do Almirante Lacerda; ão h9am-5pm Tue-Sun), with its old photographs, n er hnoon-7pm Wed-Mon; g1A, 12 Taipa Market F 1 a model of a Chinese war junk and opium- 4 Calçada do Carmo START Near the Canidrome is the Ox Warehouse, Rua da Cunha io n smoking paraphernalia, recalls his visit. e g Library u home to a group of avant-garde artists E s ia lo a ro working in a variety of media. It’s also a M C a KUN IAM TEMPLE Map pp316–17 ta d rei s 2 known as Old Ladies’ House Art Space, Di lo Rua do Regedor a ar u C Kun Iam Tong; Avenida do Coronel Mesquita; R a where a number of installations and per- d da h10am-6pm; g1A, 12 ni R ve formances are hosted in the two exhibition u A a lva d Rua de São João Si Dating from 1627, this is the most active END o Municipal Mangroves halls. The lovely courtyard makes it a cheer- s Da N ia Garden Craft Market e e Buddhist temple in Macau. It also honours g rr o Co ful rest area amid the densely populated Largo do c a ia u n R the goddess of mercy with a collection of Camões te northern Macau. Pak Tai s pictures and scrolls. Some of the reliefs were Temple 3 damaged during the Cultural Revolution. Old Police School LUÍS DE CAMÕES GARDEN Map pp316–17 Governador Tin Hau The first treaty of trade and friendship Tamagnini Barbosa Temple between the USA and China (1844) was Jardim de Luís de Camões; Praça de Luís de Camões; h6am-10pm; g8A 326 327 lonelyplanet.com MACAU NEIGHBOURHOODS & SIGHTS 329 . E3 E3 E3 E3 B2 C2 C2 D2 D3 27 28 24 21 22 23 25 26 ( p339 ) ....

2882 7103; ...... 9am-6pm ...... % ...... (see 19) h (husband ▇䭔䋑侀᳗ ...... (Casa Macaense), (Casa 䭔ⱛݴ▇ ▇䭔Ḑ㰁䜦ᑫ Map p328 Map 10am-6pm Tue-Sun vegetarian restaurant Map p328 Map dom e doña dom e h ᴥ䜦ᑫ؛䭔࿕ሐᮃҎ⏵▇ ▇䭔∍Ҩ䘟ࢩจ Main Bus Stop...... Venetian Macao Resort Hotel TRANSPORT (pp348-50) Bus Stop...... Hotel TaipaHotel SLEEPING (p347) Crown Macau Mercearia Bicileta Aluguer...... Macau Stadium SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp343-5) Jockey Club Macau DRINKING (p342) TaipaOld Tavern ...... Macanese House Map p328 Map E3 E3 E3 E3 B2 B2 C2 C2 C2 D3 D2 10 16 17 18 12 14 11 13 19 20 15 ...... and wife) residing here just left. The mix of left. The just here residing and wife) and furniture blackwood – heavy furnishings pictures with statues and Chinese cloisonné Heart a snap- the Sacred of saints and – offers early 20th century. in Macau in the shot of life MUSEUM OF TAIPA & COLOANE & COLOANE MUSEUM OF TAIPA HISTORY Museu e Coloane; da História da Taipa TAIPA TAIPA VILLAGE of the island is village in the south This It is a tidy to the island’s past. window a shops and sprawl of traditional Chinese punctuated some excellent restaurants, villas, by grand colonial there and here Down along churches and ancient temples. and is now an what was once the seafront da Praia is a tree- artificial lake, Avenida benches lined esplanade with wrought-iron the perfectand old-world charm. It’s place stroll. for a leisurely POU TAI TEMPLE Un; 5 Estrada Lou Lim Ieok; Tai Pou temple is the largest Buddhist temple This main hall, The complex on the islands. Buddhas, Precious to the Three dedicated statue of Lord contains an enormous bronze brightly coloured are Gautama, and there prayer pavilions and orchid greenhouses temple around the complex. The scattered also has a popular a residence done up in traditional local style local up in traditional done a residence likethat looks the Rua Correia da Silva; adult/student & senior MOP$5/2, Rua Correia admission free; Tue The last is the is the last The ...... 䭔ⱛݴ▇ 䁴ᯠ仃ᑫ ...... 㢅に令ᓇ ≭६࿰ 䰓᳐䃒㨵೟令 ݀䲲令ᓇ ݁ẝ䜦ᆊ ቅᑺ຿㨵ᓣ令ᓇ 10am-6pm Galo Galo Gourmet Fine Foods...... Hyper Gourmet...... O Capítulo Kapok CantoneseKapok Restaurant O Manel O Santos TemplePou Tai Restaurant ...... (see 3) Seng Cheong Serrdura ENTERTAINMENT (pp340-1) Crown Macau Venetian Macau ...... (Casa das (Casa h Map p328 Map E3 F3 F3 E3 E3 E3 B2 C2 C2 C2 C2 2 4 5 6 7 9 3 1 8 2882 7103; Avenida da 2882 7103; Avenida ...... % (Casa das Ilhas) looks at (Casa ...... 㦽ᦤ⽾䰶 ᯹䲼ഞ ...... 㨵೟㕢亳໽ഄ ...... 䰓侀Ѹ㕢亳 House of the Regions of Portugal House of the Islands ಯ䴶ԯ 䏃∍⅋৆仼 啡⪄㨵䷏ԣᅙᓣम⠽仼 㨵೟令ᓇي᳼ Traditionally an island of duck farms and duck farms of an island Traditionally The SIGHTS (pp327-31)

Four-Faced Buddha Shrine Four-Faced Buddha Tai Temple Pou House Reception Museum of Taipa & Coloane History History & Coloane Taipa of Museum Taipa House Museum...... EATING (pp338-9) A Petisqueira Amagao Amagao Chun Yu Fang Yu Fang Chun Pinocchio Cozinha TAIPA

Tue-Sun Regiões de Portugal)Regiões contains costumes and in Portugal.examines traditional ways of life The Praia; adult/child under 12 & senior overPraia; adult/child under 12 65/student free; MOP$5/free/2, Sun admission a university, a racecourse and stadium, a racecourse high- a university, rise a parade and an airport. But apartments and Taoist and buildings, baroque churches of esplanades and overgrown Buddhist temples, settlements means it’s still possible to lethargic the island. of charms experience the traditional Temple from A-Ma Buses 11 and 28A leave and have respectively terminal and the ferry stops at almost all the sights in Taipa. HOUSE MUSEUM TAIPA Casa Museum da Taipa; lime-green five villas facing the water The built in 1921 by wealthy Macanese were of them and three as summer residences form this unusual museum. The collectively da Praia Avenida two houses east of where used for recep- meets Rua do Supico are to tions and special exhibitions; the three the west house permanent collections. and Coloane, with inter- the history of Taipa to the islands’ tradi- esting displays devoted tional industries: fishing and the manufacture fireworks. and sauce, shrimp paste of oyster was joined together by silt pouring down from down silt pouring by together joined was has succeededReclamation in River. the Pearl Coloane. and the samedoing thing to Taipa facto- with enoughboat yards, fireworks small ries to satisfy the insatiable for bang- demand is rapidly becoming Taipa and crackers, ers casino-hotels, urbanised now boasts major and

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lonelyplanet.com MACAU NEIGHBOURHOODS & SIGHTS 328 lonelyplanet.com MACAU NEIGHBOURHOODS & SIGHTS 331 – a F3 E2 E2 C4 C4 C4 C4 D3 D4 D2 D4 D1 D3 35 34 28 31 32 36 33 30 29 27 26 is on the ...... Sam Seng market ...... junk-building sheds ▇䭔㲟 Map p330 Map , which is so small it’s ネ☷䴦ᑈᮙ㟡 䜦ᑫ؛࿕ᮃ∔ᑺ 䏃⪄ネ☷䜦ᑫ 咥≭䴦ᑈᮙ㟡 䭔䛝ᴥׅῖ䚼▇ 咥≭㍰ড়ᒋῖঞ储㚆Ёᖗ Bus Stop...... Westin Resort Macau Resort Macau Westin (pp348-50) TRANSPORT Bus Stop...... SLEEPING (pp345-8) (pp345-8) SLEEPING Pousada de Coloane Pousada de Juventude de Cheoc Van Water Sports Equipment Hire...... de JuventudePousada Sáde Hác Macau Golf & Country Club Water Sports Equipment Hire...... Macau Dome Dome Macau Hác Sá Sports & Recreation Hác Sá Sports Park 10am-8pm F3 F3 F3 F3 F3 F3 C4 C4 C2 D3 h 17 16 20 21 22 23 19 24 25 18 .... (2 Rua dos Navegantes) ...... The bus drops you off in the village’s at- bus drops you The ...... (see 34) eastern side. To the west is the waterfront; side. eastern From here China is just across the channel. a sign points the way north to the Temple Temple more like a family altar. Just past the temple Just past the temple like a family altar. more that, to theis the village pier and beyond northeast, a dozen about COLOANE COLOANE VILLAGE on the island, settlement only true The village a fishing largely is still Village Coloane the has given tourism although in character, is a village a big boost. The local economy that once was, of the Macau fascinating relic flanked along the narrow lanes and strolling and colourfulby temples is a joy. shops Coloane main square; tractive OF ST CHAPEL p330 Map de de Cinco Capela de São Francisco Xavier; Avenida Outubro; the water- delightful little church on This to honour St Francis front was built in 1928 a missionary in Japan. Today Japa- Xavier, still come to Coloane to pay nese Catholics For many years a fragment their respects. of the saint’s arm bone was kept in the to St chapel, but it has now been moved Joseph Seminary on the Macau Peninsula. a look in the room to the right of the Have painting of a an interesting chapel, where Mary is on display. Virgin Kum Iam–like fire in 1999 destroyed many of the sheds. fire ...... (see 26)...... (see 催व䒞จ ᅝᖋ元仙ᑫ ...... ᅝᖋ元੪ଵ 㾔⍋䒦 䞠ᮃᴀഄᐊ 䲙᝽㢅೦令ᓇ 䱌㟳令ᓇ ...... ⊩㰁ᑺ令ᓇ ᅝᖋ元㢅೦੪ଵ ネ☷⋇∴ 咥≭݀೦㨵೟令ᓇ Fernando Fernando SHOPPING (pp332-3) Asian Artefacts...... EATING (pp333-40) EATING Espaço Lisboa Kwun Hoi Heen Heen Hoi Kwun La Gondola Lord Stow's Garden Café Lord Lord Stow's Bakery Lord Lord Stow's Cafe SPORTS & ACTIVITIES (pp343-5) SwimmingCheoc Van Pool Kartodrome Coloane Nga Tim Café Parque Hác Restaurante Sá F3 F4 F4 F3 F3 E4 B3 B3 C3 C3 C3 C4 C3 C2 C3 D3 9 6 4 1 8 2 3 5 7 15 11 13 14 12 10 ...... 䄮݀ᒳ ϝ㘪ᆂ ⷇ᥦ☷݀೦ ໽ৢᒳ 㾔䷇ᒳ ໽ৢᒳ ...... (see 14) ڣ⼪႑ ೳഄᱼ㞾✊म⠽仼 䏃⪄㘪ᮍ△৘㘪ූ ႑⼪᭛࣪ᴥ SeacPai Van Park A-Ma Ornamental EntranceA-Ma Ornamental Gate .... Statue A-Ma Tam Kong Temple Temple Kong Tam Museum of Nature & Agriculture Nature & Agriculture of Museum Junk-Building Sheds ...... Temple Iam Kun Sam SengTemple Hác Sá Beach...... SIGHTS (pp327-32) Village Cultural A-Ma Aviary...... of St FrancisChapel Xavier Cheoc Van Beach...... Coloane Market...... Tian Hou Temple Temple Hau Tin COLOANE

FOUR-FACED BUDDHA SHRINE SHRINE BUDDHA FOUR-FACED p328 Map cnr Estrada Governador O Buda de Quatro Faces; San Oliveira & Rua de Fat Albano de Northeast of the Macau Jockey Club race- the Buddhist shrine track’s main entrance is elephants and fes- guarded by four stone floral Thai-style tooned with gold leaf and It’s a popular place to pray and bouquets. race meetings. before make offerings Coloane Island the 20th until the start of pirates for haven A Wan in Cantonese)century, Coloane (Lo fought off the last assault on the by buccaneers South China Sea 1910, and the island still in the victory every Nowadays 13 July. celebrates that doesn’t seem Macau to it’s the only part of To visit at a head-spinning rate. be changing Tem- Coloane Island board bus 21A at A-Ma Both head ple or bus 25 at . do to Hác Sá Beach stops at Avenida and have Village. and Coloane Dom Henrique Infante The museum is built on the remnants of remnants on the is built museum The and Municipal Council Island the former with Museum be a mini-Macau tries to although and Coloane, on Taipa a focus as as good not nearly the collections are of is a display Fort.those on Monte There other artefacts and relics on the excavated the earlier cultural represent 1st floor that Coloane, while the 2nd and history of Taipa objects, handicrafts religious floor contains models. and architectural

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lonelyplanet.com MACAU NEIGHBOURHOODS & SIGHTS 330 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com In front of the chapel are a monument Otherwise you can reach both by following Madeira is a charming market street, with ferries. Mint sets and first-day covers are avail- and fountain surrounded by four cannon- the Coloane Trail (Trilho de Coloane; p343 ) many shops selling carved Buddha heads and able from counters 17 and 18 at the main post balls that commemorate the successful – from . other religious items. office (Map p320 ) facing Largo do Senado. and final – routing of pirates in 1910. Rua dos Mercadores, which leads up to CHEOC VAN BEACH Map p330 Rua da Tercena, will lead you past tailors, tiny TEMPLES Map p330 Estrada de Cheoc Van jewellery stores, incense and mahjong shops, EATING Southeast of the Chapel of St Francis Xavier, About 1.5km down Estrada de Cheoc Van, and other traditional businesses (Map p320 ). At the Eating – be it Portuguese or Macanese ‘soul between Travessa de Caetano and Travessa which runs east and then southeast from far end of Rua da Tercena, where the road food’, Chinese dim sum or the special treats de Pagode, is a small Kun Iam Temple – just an Coloane Village, is the beach at Cheoc Van splits, is a flea market (Map p320 ) , where you can available from street stalls and night mar- altar inside a little walled compound. If you (Bamboo Bay). There are public changing pick up baskets and other rattan ware, jade kets – is one of the most rewarding aspects walk just a little further to the southeast, rooms and toilets and, in season, lifeguards pieces and old coins. of a visit to Macau. One thing to remember, you’ll find the considerably larger Tin Hau (h10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun May-Oct) on Great streets for antiques, ceramics and though: people eat dinner relatively early here, Temple up in Largo Tin Hau Miu. duty. curios (eg traditional Chinese kites) are Rua and in some restaurants the dining room is all At the southern end of Avenida de Cinco de São Paulo, Rua das Estalagens and Rua de but empty by 9pm. São António, and the lanes off them; most de Outubro in Largo Tam Kong Miu, the Tam SEAC PAI VAN PARK Map p330 The most popular alcoholic tipple in Macau shops are open from 10.30am or 11am to 6pm is vinho verde, a crisp, dry, slightly effervescent Kong Temple is dedicated to the Taoist god of %2887 0277; Estrada de Seac Pai Van; admission or 7pm, with a one-hour lunch some time ‘green’ wine from Portugal that goes down a seafarers, who may be a deification of the free; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun between 12.30pm and 2pm. treat with salty Portuguese food and spicy Song-dynasty boy emperor Duan Zong (see At the end of Cotai, this 20-hectare park, Coloane Village has a few shops selling Macanese dishes. You may also try one of the p20 ). To the right of the main altar is a long built in the wooded hills on the western MACAU bric-a-brac, traditional goods and antiques. fine wines from Dão, Douro or Alenquer. MACAU whale bone, which has been carved into a side of the island, has somewhat unkempt Asian Artefacts (Map p330 ; %2888 1022; 9 Rua dos Nego- model of a boat, complete with a dragon’s gardens sprouting species of plants and ciantes; h10am-7pm) is one of the best. SHOPPING head and a crew of men in pointed hats. trees from around the world, a children’s Portuguese & EATING Stroke the dragon’s head and tail for good zoo, a lake with swans and other waterfowl, luck. and a decaying walk-through aviary (h9am- CLOTHING Macanese Cuisine 5pm Tue-Sun), which contains a number of For cheap clothing, go to the St Dominic Market Portuguese cuisine is meat-based and not al- HÁC SÁ BEACH Map p330 rare birds. The Museum of Nature & Agriculture (Map p320 ) , in an alley just north of Largo do ways particularly refined. It makes great use Hác Sá (Black Sand) is the most popular (Museu Natural e Agrário; %2882 7277; admission free; Senado, or the Three Lamps District, especially of olive oil, garlic and bacalhau (dried salted beach in Macau. The sand is indeed a grey h10am-6pm Tue-Sun) has traditional farming around Rotunda de Carlos da Maia (Map pp316– cod), which can be prepared in many differ- to blackish colour and makes the water equipment, dioramas of Coloane’s ecosys- 17) , near the Almirante Lacerda City Market ent ways. The cuisine sometimes combines look somewhat dirty (especially at the tide tem, and displays cataloguing a wide range in northern Macau Peninsula. meat and seafood in one dish, such as porco line), but it’s perfectly clean. Lifeguards of the island’s fauna and flora. à Alentejana, a tasty casserole of pork and keep the same schedule here as on Cheoc clams. Some favourite dishes are caldo verde Van Beach. SPECIALTY FOODS (a soup of green kale – a type of cabbage – SHOPPING On Rua da Felicidade, ‘street of happiness’ and thickened with potatoes), pasteis de bacal- A-MA STATUE Map p330 once Macau’s red-light district, a cluster of hau (codfish croquettes), sardinhas grelhadas The main shopping areas in Macau Peninsula (grilled sardines), and feijoada (a casserole Estátua da Deusa A-Ma; Estrada do Alto de Coloane are along Avenida do Infante Dom Henrique shops sell Chinese pastries original to Macau. This colossal 20m statue of the goddess Koi Kei (Map p320 ; 74 Rua de Felicidade), just next to Fat of beans, pork, spicy sausages, potatoes and and Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro. Other shop- cabbage). who gave Macau its name (see the boxed ping zones can be found along Rua da Palha, Siu Lau, specialises in phoenix rolls (shredded text, p307 ), atop Alto de Coloane (176m), was pork wrapped with seaweed) and peanut can- Macanese food borrows a lot of its ingre- Rua do Campo and Rua Pedro Nolasco da dients and tastes from Chinese and other hewn from a form of white jade quar- Silva. dies. Choi Heong Yuen (Map p320; %2835 5966; 70-72 ried near Beijing and was erected in Rua de Felicidade), going strong for over 70 years, Asian cuisines, as well as from those of former The largest shopping complex in Macau Portuguese colonies in Africa and India. It is 1998. Below it is enormous Tian Hou Temple is Macau’s most popular place for hang-yàn- is the newly opened Venetian Macau (Map p328). redolent of coconut, tamarind, chilli, jaggery (h8am-7.30pm), which, together with the Same as the Wynn Macau (Map pp316–17 ; Rua Cidade béng (almond-flavoured biscuits). Both shops have numerous outlets but Felicidade has the (palm sugar) and shrimp paste. statue, form the core of A-Ma Cultural Village, de Sintra, NAPE), it has a number of luxury re- The most famous Macanese speciality is gal- a religious complex containing a museum, tailers selling high-end fashion. The more most elaborate choices. Other Macau special- ties you might want to try include nougats, inha áfricana (African chicken), in which the retreat and medical centres, a vegetarian family-friendly Japanese-owned department bird is prepared in coconut, garlic and chillies. restaurant and handicraft shops. It’s rather store New Yaohan (Map pp316–17; Avenida da Amizade), preserved apricots and yuk-gàwn, dried sweet commercial and you’ll probably see more opposite the ferry terminal, is expected to strips of pork and other meats. The shops traders than prayers, selling different kinds relocate behind the Grand Emperor Hotel usually open from 10am to 10pm. of products supposedly meant to bring (Map p320) in 2008. PRICE GUIDE luck and wealth, including turtles and birds. This price guide is for the approximate cost of a two- Still, it’s a good spot to get a birds-eye view STAMPS Macau produces some wonderful postage course meal, with drinks. of Hác Sá beach on a clear day. ANTIQUES & CURIOS $$$ over MOP$400 a meal A free bus runs from the A-Ma orna- While exploring Macau’s back lanes and stamps, real collector’s items that include images of everything from key colonial $$ MOP$150-400 mental entrance gate on Estrada de Seac streets you’ll stumble across bustling mar- $ under MOP$150 Pai Van every half-hour from 8am to 6pm. kets and traditional Chinese shops. Rua da landmarks to roulette tables and high-speed 332 333 lonelyplanet.com As well as cod, there are plenty of other fish Red Market. The old historic St Lawrence City lonelyplanet.com and seafood: shrimps, prawns, crabs, squid Market (Mercado Municipal de São Lourenço; SAMPLING THE MENU and white fish. Sole, a tongue-shaped flat fish, Rua de João Lecaros) in the south was demol- is a Macanese delicacy. The contribution from ished in 2006, but a new market complex at These are a few of the dishes you’re likely to encounter on your travels through Macau. the former Portuguese enclave of Goa, on the the same location is expected to be complete west coast of India, is spicy prawns. in 2009. Entradas Appetisers Other Macanese favourites include cas- Pavilions Supermercado (Map p320 ; %2833 3636; 421 chouriço assado grilled Portuguese sausage quinha (stuffed crab), porco balichão tama- Avenida da Praia Grande; h10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 11am-8pm croquetes de carne minced beef croquettes rino (pork cooked with tamarind and shrimp Sun), a supermarket in the centre of the Macau pastéis de bacalhau dried Portuguese cod cakes paste), minchi (minced beef or pork cooked Peninsula, has a wide selection of imported with potatoes, onions and spices), and baked food and drinks, including a Portuguese sec- Sopas Soups rice dishes made with cod, prawns or crab. tion in the basement. Hyper Gourmet (Map p328 ; caldo verde Portuguese kale soup with chouriço, thickened with potato Macanese desserts include pudim, which is %2881 3452; Ground fl, Magnolia Court, Ocean Gardens, sopa de marisco seafood soup basically crème caramel, pastéis de nata, a Avenida dos Jardins do Oceano, Taipa; h10am-10pm), an- scrumptious egg-custard tartlet eaten warm, other supermarket on Taipa, and Gourmet Fine Marisco Shellfish and serradura, a calorie-rich ‘sawdust’ pud- Foods (Map p328 ; %2884 1436; Ground fl, Block 25, Nava ding made with crushed biscuits, cream and açorda de marisco seafood and mashed bread casserole Taipa Garden, 393 Rua de Seng Tou, Taipa; h10am-9pm) condensed milk. If you want to try the latter , ameijoas ‘Bulhão Pato’ clams with garlic, coriander and olive oil while touring around, visit the mistakenly a deli-style store, feature Portuguese, French arroz de marisco mixed seafood rice and Italian foods. MACAU spelled Serrdura (p338 ) . camarão frito com alho e piri-piri deep-fried prawns with garlic and chilli MACAU Dining in Macau (www.dininginmacau.com) is a quar- caril de carangueijo crab curry terly advertorial freebie, but a good source of ROBUCHON A GALERA casquinha stuffed crab EATING information about restaurants nonetheless. Map pp316–17 French $$$ EATING You may also like to have a read of the Macau %2837 7666; 3rd fl, New/West Wing, Lisboa Hotel, Peixe Fish Food Guide (www.cityguide.gov.mo/food/food_e.htm), 2-4 Avenida de Lisboa; starters MOP$190-290, bacalhau á ‘Brás’ sautéed bacalhau with potatoes and egg available for free at the tourist office. mains MOP$330-570; hnoon-2.30pm & 6.30- bacalhau á ‘Zé do Pipo’ baked, dried cod with mashed potato 10.30pm lulas recheadas stuffed squid Joël Robuchon, Michelin-starred French sardinhas na brasa grilled sardines Other Cuisines chef and serious bon vivant, opened this Macau is not just about Macanese and Portu- restaurant featuring haute cuisine and guese food. Some people swear that the dim world-class wines. For possibly the best Carne Meat sum here is far better than anything you’ll find fine-dining experience in Macau, try bife de vitela grelhado na brasa com batata frita grilled veal steak and chips in Hong Kong. Burmese cuisine can also be the sublime 12-course tasting menu for caldeirada de borrego lamb, potato and white-wine stew found in the Three Lamps District, a contri- MOP$1400. Even if you don’t hit the jack- carne de porco á Alentejana sautéed pork and clams bution of the sizeable Burmese community pot at the casinos, the three-course set coelho á caćadora rabbit stew living there. lunch for MOP$288 is very affordable. feijoada pork knuckle, chouriço, red bean and cabbage stew galinha á Africana grilled chicken cooked with coconut, garlic and chillies minchi minced beef or pork cooked with potato DON ALFONSO 1890 Map p320 Italian $$$ MACAU PENINSULA porco balichão tamarino pork cooked with tamarind and shrimp paste Macau is known for its distinct culinary %2828 3838; Avenida de Lisboa, Grand Lisboa; pleasures, no matter whether for Chinese, starters MOP$180-230, mains MOP$120-540; hnoon-2pm & 6.30pm-2am Sobremesas Desserts Portuguese or Macanese cuisines. Most of fatias de tomar cake-like dessert made with egg yolks and syrup the restaurants in Macau open from noon This new restaurant opened by another colourful Michelin-starred chef, Alfonso pudim de ovos caramel egg pudding to around 3pm, and re-open again at 6pm serradura cream and condensed milk pudding topped with crumbled biscuits till 10pm. Good news for foodies – the 5% Iaccarino, is an alternative for fine dining government tax levied on food and beverage in Macau, with a dégustation menu for in restaurants was recently lifted. MOP$1200. abalone and shark fin and are all carefully istic former two-storey shop house, this is Macau Peninsula’s daai-pàai-dawng (open- prepared with fresh ingredients by the another decent place to sample abalone, air street stalls) serve up excellent stir-fried MANG PAN KOI wonderful, hospitable chef Mr Dai, cook- though it’s a bit overpriced. dishes; try any of those along Rua do Almi- Map pp316–17 Cantonese, Seafood $$$ ing with heart and soul. If possible, bring a rante Sérgio. %2856 9256, 687 7296; 26F Rua do Bispo Me- Chinese friend for communication. FURUSATO Map pp316–17 Japanese $$$ Macau has about 10 mercados (markets) deiros; mains MOP$300-400, abalone & shark’s fin %2837 7666; 2nd fl, East Wing, Lisboa Hotel; selling fresh fruit, vegetables, meat and fish plate MOP$90-450; hnoon-12am SAI NAM Map p320 Chinese, Seafood $$$ lunch MOP$240-280, dinner MOP$400-700; from 6am to 8pm daily. The largest is the This pocket-sized, homely restaurant is a %2857 4072; 36 Rua da Felicidade; abalone & hnoon-3pm & 6-11pm Almirante Lacerda City Market (Mercado Municipal Almirante hidden gem near Lou Lim Iok Garden and shark’s fin plate from MOP$350; h5.30-10.15pm Unlike in Hong Kong, good Japanese Lacerda; Map pp316–17 ; 130 Avenida do Almirante Lacerda), gets a thumbs up among the Chinese in Handily located in the specialty foods restaurants are never easy to find in Macau. in northern Macau, commonly known as the Macau. The food specialties here include shopping area and housed in a character- Furusato is an exception. It is one of the 334 335 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com best and most impressive Japanese res- as you’ll find in Macau. Be sure to dress ticularly good value. The bar area extends Pizzas (MOP$78 to MOP$95) and pasta taurants in town, and is a good choice for smartly. its opening hours until 1.30am on Fridays. (MOP$70 to MOP$95) are popular. classy and delicate fine Japanese dining. There is a tiny gallery (tall people mind SOLMAR Map p320 Portuguese, Macanese $$ your head!) upstairs exhibiting artwork LITORAL Map pp316–17 Macanese, Portuguese $$ TOU TOU KOI Map p320 Cantonese $$$ %2888 1881; 512 Rua da Praia Grande; starters from local young artists. %2896 7878; 261A Rua do Almirante Sérgio; start- %2857 2629; 6-8 Travessa do Mastro; mains MOP$45-88, mains MOP$95-190; h11am-11pm ers MOP$30-50, mains MOP$60-120; hnoon-3pm MOP$58-150, seafood MOP$150-488; h8am-3pm While Macau is changing at a crazy pace, PRAIA GRANDE Map pp316–17 Portuguese $$ & 6-10.30pm & 5pm-12am this 40-year-old restaurant in the city centre %2897 3022; 10A Praça Lobo d’Avila; starters This authentic Macanese restaurant attracts Located down the alley just opposite the has a nostalgic atmosphere filling every MOP$35-65, mains MOP$80-200; hnoon-11pm both locals and tourists alike. Apart from Pawnshop Museum, this nominally Chinese corner. It is particularly well known for its Mon-Fri, 11. 45am-11pm Sat & Sun; g6, 9, 32 the delightful Macanese fare, including restaurant serves some very traditional galinha à Africana (Africa Chicken). Get a table by the window upstairs for a baked duck rice, it’s renowned for its home- Cantonese dishes you can no longer find in view of the boulevard. This stylish place made crab soup and shrimp soup served in other Chinese restaurants. Among the wide BON APETITE Map pp316–17 Macanese $$ serves adequate Portuguese dishes on the a bread bowl. range of sumptuous dishes is its signature %2875 7725; 73 Rua de Madrid, Wan Yu Villas, historic Praia Grande. deep-fried stuffed crab with shrimp. NAPE; starters MOP$35-50, mains MOP$88-150; O PORTO INTERIOR hnoon -3pm & 6-11pm Wed-Mon PLATÃO Map p320 Portuguese $$ Map pp316–17 Macanese, Portuguese $$ WING LEI Map pp316–17 Chinese $$$ Grab a seat near the window for a view %2833 1818; www.plataomacau.com; 3 Travessa %2896 7770; 259B Rua do Almirante Sérgio; %986 3688; Ground fl, Wynn Macau; dim sum of the Kum Iam Statue and some home- de Sao Domingos; starters MOP$28-40, mains mains MOP$55-130; hnoon-11.30pm MOP$20-30, mains MOP$80-450;h11.30am-3pm style Macanese fare. The regularly chang- MOP$94-206; hnoon-11pm Tue-Sun If you can’t get a table at A Lorcha, this MACAU & 6-11pm ing menu features such palette-tempting This restaurant is renowned for its chef, lovely restaurant is a good alternative for MACAU This is one of the top Chinese restaurants delights as carne de porco à alentejana (fried who once worked for the governors of both Portuguese and Macanese fare. The

EATING on the casino strip. Its ambience may not pork meat with clams) and pasteis e bacal- Macau. Dishes worth trying include the juicy African chicken deserves savouring. EATING be as good as the Eight in Grand Lisboa but hau (codfish cakes). baked duck rice and the rack of lamb with its dim sum definitely is. mustard. The giant serradura (MOP$52) is RESTAURANTE TENIS CIVIL LEON AFONSO III Map p320 Portuguese $$ a must. Map pp316–17 Macanese, Portuguese $$ THE EIGHT Map p320 Cantonese $$$ %2858 6272; 11A Rua Central; starters MOP$55- %2830 1189; 1st fl, 14 Avenida da República; %2888 3838; 2nd fl, Grand Lisboa, Avenida e 85, mains MOP$75-155; hnoon-3pm & 6.30- OS GATOS starters MOP$40-75, mains MOP$88-150; h11am- Lisboa; mains MOP$150-200; h11.30am-2.30pm 10.30pm Mon-Sat Map pp316–17 Portuguese, Mediterranean $$ 3pm & 6-11pm & 6.30-10.30pm This simple authentic Portuguese restau- %2837 8111; Avenida da República, Pousada de This restaurant may not serve the best Por- Elegantly designed in black, the main din- rant, a short stroll southwest of the Leal São Tiago; mains MOP$88-380; h7am-11.30pm tuguese food but it definitely has a lovely ing hall will impress you at first sight with Senado, has won a well-deserved reputa- You might go inside this restaurant just for ambience with a wonderful view overlook- its water-lily pool; at first taste, so will its tion among the Portuguese community in a cup of coffee and no one could blame ing . Though housed in a tennis dim sum. Macau. Tables are often in short supply, so you, as its romantic ambience is unbeat- club, the restaurant welcomes both mem- phone ahead. able. Not to be missed is its afternoon tea bers and nonmembers. CAMÕES Map pp316–17 Portuguese $$ set (MOP$110), served from 3pm to 6pm. %2873 8818; 1st fl, 3 Lisboa Bldg, Fisherman’s LA BONNE HEURE Map p320 French $$ HENRI’S GALLEY Map pp316–17 Macanese $$ Wharf; starters MOP$48-180, mains MOP$98- %2833 1209; 12A-B Travessa de São Domingos; A LORCHA Map pp316–17 Portuguese $$ %2855 6251; 4G-H Avenida da República; starters 178; hnoon-3pm & 6-11.30pm starters MOP$68-148, mains MOP$98-228, 1-/2-/3- %2831 3193; 289A Rua do Almirante Sérgio; start- MOP$38-72, mains MOP$60-135; h11am-11pm Camões is the best place to dine on the course set lunch MOP$60/75/85; hnoon-3pm & ers MOP$38-56, mains MOP$78-146; h12.30-3pm Located on the waterfront at the southern Fisherman’s Wharf. The menu features a 5.30-10pm Sun-Wed, 5.30-11.30pm Thu-Sat & 6.30-11pm Wed-Mon end of the Macau Peninsula, this 30-year- old institution serves up specialities of Afri- wide range of bacalhau dishes to suit every- This affordable French restaurant is in a ‘The Sailboat’, right by the A-Ma Temple, can chicken and Macau sole with a unique body’s fancy, along with some excellent charming old building just up from the is a benchmark of Portuguese food on the recipe expertly prepared by the cheerful and good-value house wine (per glass/half Largo do Senado. The set lunches are a par- peninsula. Try the pork-ear salad and deep- Macanese chef Henri Wong. litre MOP$20/50). Ask for a table on the fried bacalhau cakes. If you can only try one balcony. Portuguese restaurant in Macau, make it this one. FAT SIU LAU Map p320 Macanese $$ CLUBE MILITAR DE MACAU %2857 3580; cnr Rua da Felicidade & Travessa Do h Map pp316–17 Portuguese $$ ANTICA TRATTORIA DA ISA Mastro; mains MOP$42-156; noon-11pm At least three generations in Macau would % Map pp316–17 Italian $$ 2871 4000; 975 Avenida da Praia Grande; start- have heard about this charming century- M A C A U R E S TA U R A N T S % ers MOP$38-98, mains MOP$120-150, lunch buffet 2875 5102; 1st fl, Vista Magnífica Bldg, 40-46 old restaurant. Try its signature dish pombo h A Lorcha ( opposite ) MOP$90; noon-3pm & 7-11pm Avenida Sir Anders Ljungstedt; starters MOP$38-70, assado (roasted pigeon). The chic Fat Siu Lau Robuchon A Galera ( p334 ) h The Portuguese dishes may not be the mains MOP$78-120; noon-10.45pm 2 (Map pp316–17 ; %2872 2922; Ef Vista Magnifica Ct, best in town, but the Military Club is one of Amagao ( p339 ) This Italian restaurant in NAPE has an Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen; hnoon-3pm & 6.30pm-12am), Macau’s most distinguished colonial build- Tou Tou Koi ( left ) extensive menu of well-prepared dishes, its first and only branch after a century, has ings and its restaurant is as atmospheric Espaço Lisboa ( p340 ) lovely décor and warm, helpful service. some fusion initiatives in its menu. 336 337 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com PORTAS DO SOL Map pp316–17 Cantonese $$ This shop sells bite-sized (MOP$11) and Coloane is not the treasure-trove of restau- KAPOK CANTONESE RESTAURANT %2888 3888; 2nd fl, East Wing, Lisboa Hotel; dim large (MOP$88) versions of serradura, rants and other eateries that Taipa is, but there Map p328 Cantonese $$ sum MOP$14-30, mains MOP$68-188; h9.30am- a rich local dessert made with crushed are a few decent options offering a variety of %2883 3333; 60 Rua de Hong Chau, Hoi Yee 3pm & 6.30-11.30pm biscuits, cream and condensed milk. It also cuisines at various price levels. Garden; mains MOP$60-150; h11am-5pm & 5.30- Portas do So changes its dim sum menu has a branch in Taipa (Map p328 ;%2833 2880; 11pm Mon-Sat, 9am-3pm & 5.30-11pm Sun regularly to keep you surprised every time Rua do Regedor; hnoon-10pm), next to Cozinha Next to the peaceful tea house Chun Yu you visit and it has a very spacious dining Pinocchio. Taipa Island Fang is this bustling restaurant, which is ar- hall. Make sure you have a reservation if A PETISQUEIRA Map p328 Portuguese $$ guably the best place for dim sum in Taipa, you go on the weekend as it gets pretty OU MUN CAFÉ Map p320 Café $ %2882 5354; 15A-B Rua de São João; starters and is always full during the weekends. full during lunch time when families get %2837 2207; 12 Travessa de São Domingos; MOP$25-85, mains MOP$85-180; hnoon-3pm & together for dim sum. sandwiches MOP$12-25, dishes MOP$50; h8am- 7-10.30pm COZINHA PINOCCHIO Map p328 Macanese $$ 8pm Tue-Sun ‘The Snackery’, an excellent restaurant set %2882 7128; 195 Rua do Regedor; starters LONG KEI Map p320 Cantonese $$ This is a rather flashy little café with the in a little alley that is easy to overlook, is MOP$40-62, mains MOP$52-135; h11.45am-11pm %2858 9508; 7B Largo do Senado; dishes rather imaginative name of ‘Macau’. While considered to have the best Portuguese The well-known Cozinha Pinocchio, after MOP$48-138; h11.30am-3pm & 6-11.30pm the former is often clustered with Canton- food in Taipa. It serves its own queijo fresca its relocation to Rua do Regedor, is less This landmark place is a straightforward Can- ese, this is a Macanese hang-out spot, serv- da casa (homemade cheese; MOP$22). Try atmospheric than before. But on the week- tonese restaurant with more than 300 dishes ing a range of decent sandwiches, cakes the baked seafood with rice. ends it’s still packed with local and tourists on offer. The food may not be the best, but and coffees. alike enjoying the stir-fried curried crab and its location makes it a handy choice. AMAGAO Map p328 Macanese $$ grilled fresh sardines. MACAU MACAU LONG WA Map pp316–17 Cantonese, Tea House $ %2882 7627; Rua Ho Lin Vong; starters MOP$24- LA COMEDIE CHEZ VOUS %2857 4456; 3 Avenida do Almirante Lacerda; 60, mains MOP$60-120; h6-10pm Thu-Tue GALO Map p328 Macanese, Portuguese $$ EATING Map pp316–17 French $ dishes MOP$12-25; h7am-2pm Located in a side alley off Rua da Cunha, %2882 7423; 45 Rua da Cunha; starters MOP$20- EATING %2875 2021; Shop G, Ground fl, Edf Zhu Kuan, Next to the red market, this yellowish two- Amagao is a 10-seat family-style Macanese 48, mains MOP$48-120; h11am-3pm & 6- Avenida Xian Xing Hai; mains MOP$42-250; storey tea house’s ambience and age-old restaurant, probably the best in Macau. 10.30pm hnoon-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm Mon-Thu, noon- tiled floors tell you it’s a rare survivor of the It continues to wow crowds with its You can easily recognise this place by the 2.30pm & 7-11pm Fri & Sat traditional Cantonese tea houses in Macau. fabulously flavourful Portuguese chicken picture of a red-combed galo (rooster) A favourite with business executives for its There is no English menu, but you can just (MOP$88), and the hospitality of its store above the door. The food is adequate and excellent-value set lunch (MOP$65) and, point to the dim sum carts. No smoking, no owner/chef. the service flawless. presumably, its comfy chairs. It’s also a pets, no alcohol. handy place to hang out after watching a O MANEL Map p328 Portuguese $$ CHUN YU FANG Map p328 Chinese, Tea House $ performance at the cultural centre. WONG CHI KEI Map p320 Cantonese $ %2882 7571; 90 Rua de Fernão Mendes Pinto; %2883 9093; 42 Rua de Hong Chau; snacks %2833 1313; 17 Largo do Senado; rice & noodle starters MOP$25-30, mains MOP$60-135; hnoon- MOP$28-38, tea for 2 MOP$40-88; h12.30-9.30pm CARAVELA Map p320 Café $ dishes MOP$18-36; h 8am-midnight 3.30pm & 6-11pm Wed-Mon Wed-Mon %712 080; Ground fl, Kam Loi Bldg, 7 Pátio do Visit this centrally located Chinese eatery Another family-run restaurant, though a Located behind Crown Macau, this grace- Comandante Mata e Oliveira; cakes MOP$10-25, set for a fix of cheap late-night noodles. It is bit isolated from Taipa Village, it still at- ful tea house is a paradise amid the rapid lunch MOP$60; h8am-10.30pm particularly renowned for its noodle soup tracts both locals and expats alike with its changes in Taipa. Its serenity offers you a This excellent pastelaria (pastry shop), with wontons. splendid Portuguese dishes such as grilled delectable tea experience. just north of Avenida de Dom João IV, is bacalhau. the hang-out of choice for Portuguese U TAC HONG Map p320 Cantonese Dessert $ SENG CHEONG Map p328 Cantonese $ residents on the peninsula. Grab a befe a %2892 0598; 19D Rua da Madeira; snacks & drinks O SANTOS Map p328 Portuguese $$ %2882 5323; 28-30 Rua da Cunha; mains MOP$80; Caravela (Caravela beef) if craving some- MOP$4-10; h7am-7pm %2882 7508; 20 Rua da Cunha; mains MOP$62- hnoon-midnight thing more substantial. Also known as Lee Hong Kee, U Tac Hong 120; h noon-3pm & 6.30-10.30pm This simple Chinese restaurant is celebrated is a tiny local place that has been selling Head here for the sapateira recheada, a type for its fried fish balls, steamed eel and con- gee (rice porridge with savoury titbits). O PORTO Map pp316–17 Macanese, Portuguese $ soya-bean products for 50 years, and is of crab flown in fresh from Portugal, and %2859 4643; 17 Travessa de Paria; mains reputable for its silky tofufa, sweet bean- maçã assada, a special baked apple. Expect MOP$55-100; h12.30pm-2.30pm & 7-10.30pm curd with evaporated milk (MOP$4), and a crowd. POU TAI TEMPLE RESTAURANT This unmarked place is actually a soccer soya-bean milk. Map p328 Chinese, Vegetarian $ club, evident from its soccer banners on O CAPÍTULO Map p328 Portuguese $$ %893 0321; 5 Estrada Lou Lim Ieok; dishes MOP$36-55; h11am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-9pm Sun display. It’s out of the way, but good value % 2882 1519; Ground fl, Nam San Bldg, Avenida de & the 1st & 15th day of the lunar calendar month for a unique Portuguese experience with TAIPA & COLOANE ISLANDS Kwong Tung; starters MOP$30-140, mains MOP$70- The number of restaurants in Taipa has If you get tired of the meat-laden Por- robustly flavoured cuisine. 165; hnoon-10pm grown by leaps and bounds in just a few short tuguese cuisine, this strictly vegetarian years. While much of the choice is restricted O Capítulo’s home-made Portuguese dishes restaurant, set in a Buddhist temple in SERRDURA Map pp316–17 Macanese Dessert $ to Portuguese and Macanese cuisine, you’ll are as fresh as its recent renovation. Try the northern Taipa, is a great find for the health % 2833 2880; Ground fl, Tin Fok Bldg, 15 Avenida also find some excellent Cantonese eateries superb suckling pig and fatias de Tomar, a conscious. It’s housed in the basement of h do Coronel Mesquita; noon-11pm here, too. rich dessert made with egg yolks and syrup. the building next to the main hall. 338 339 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com Coloane Island NGA TIM CAFÉ Map p330 Cantonese, Portuguese $ CROWN MACAU Map p328 Casino you’re guaranteed to get lost in this behe- %2888 2086; 1 Rua Caetano; mains MOP$100; %2886 8888; www.crown-macau.com; Avenida de moth. Gambling tables are omnipresent in ESPAÇO LISBOA Map p330 Portuguese $$ h11am-1am Kwong Tung, Taipa its labyrinth-like complex. Expect throngs of %2888 2226; 8 Rua dos Gaivotas; starters This café itself is no work of art, but it has This self-proclaimed six-star hotel-casino has gamblers from the mainland. Its free shuttle MOP$55-188, mains MOP$98-288; hnoon-3pm & a unique and laidback setting just in front 220 gaming tables and targets high rollers. service also goes to Cotai Frontier Post. 6.30-10pm Tue-Fri, noon-10.30pm Sat & Sun of the Chapel of St Francis Xavier. Enjoy the Ostentatiousness is readily displayed. The ‘Lisbon Space’ restaurant, located in scene, and the hybrid Sino-Portuguese food. a charming village house over two floors, WYNN MACAU Map pp316–17 Casino EMPEROR PALACE CASINO %2888 9966; Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau serves some of the most thoughtfully Map p320 Casino prepared Portuguese dishes in Macau. Get LORD STOW’S CAFÉ Map p330 Café $ Peninsula %2888 9988; 299 Avenida Comerical De Macau, Mimicking its counterpart in Vegas, Wynn a table on the balcony. Daily specials cost %2888 2174; 9 Largo do Matadouro; sandwiches Grand Emperor Hotel, Macau Peninsula Macau has the most glamorous and elegant MOP$88 to MOP$168, and the wine list is & quiches MOP$22-35, desserts MOP$10-26; The Emperor Palace is worth a visit, if only ambience, albeit a bit low-ceilinged. This is superb. h10.30am-7pm Though the celebrated English baker for its entrance. The princely concourse, the first casino with a nonsmoking area. Andrew Stow passed away recently, his with incantation on the marble columns Map p330 Cantonese $$ KWUN HOI HEEN café and Lord Stow’s Bakery (%2888 2534; 1 and pure gold bricks on the floor, is where OTHER CASINOS % 899 1320; 3rd fl, Westin Resort Macau, 1918 Rua da Tassara; h7am-10pm Thu-Tue, 7am-7pm you’ll find deployment of the art of feng Other casinos you might consider for a visit Estrada de Hác Sá; rice & noodle dishes MOP$28-78, shui to make fortunes, if not to show off. Wed) keeps his memory well alive by serv- (and, perhaps, a laugh) include the medio- mains MOP$35-210; hlunch 11am-3pm Mon-Fri, ing his renowned pastéis de nata, a warm cre Star World Casino (Map pp316–17 ; %2838 3838; 9.30am-4pm Sat & Sun, dinner 6.30-11pm daily egg-custard tart (MOP$6) and cheesecake GRAND LISBOA CASINO Map p320 Casino Avenida da Amizade), a favourite for the mainland MACAU Though it boasts alfresco dining and MACAU (MOP$14) in unusual flavours, including %2838 2828; Avenida de Lisboa, Macau Peninsula Chinese punters, and Pharaoh’s Palace Casino (Map sumptuous views, it’s the superb Canton- black sesame and green tea. The Lord Stow’s Connected to the Lisboa Casino by a foot- pp316–17 ; %2878 8111; 3rd fl, Landmark Macau, Avenida ese cuisine that makes Kwun Hoi Heen ENTERTAINMENT Garden Café (%2888 1851; 105 Rua da Cordoaria; bridge is the new, plush Grand Lisboa, with da Amizade), where a failed attempt to re-cre- ENTERTAINMENT stand out among the hotel restaurants ate an ancient Egyptian palace makes you h10.30am-7pm) near the Coloane bus stop its glowing golden bulb and truly kitschy on Coloane Island. Dim sum is MOP$18 feel like you are gambling inside a tomb. has a very relaxed atmosphere on its patio. lotus-shaped towering structure. The inte- to MOP$22. The Saturday buffet lunch rior ventilation works much better here. (MOP$180) and dinner (from MOP$198) are excellent value. LISBOA CASINO Map p320 Casino CLUBBING ENTERTAINMENT The club scene in Macau is flourishing with Macau Cultural Centre (p323 ) %2837 5111; Hotel Lisboa, 2-4 Avenida de Lisboa, LA GONDOLA Map p330 Italian $$ The is the territory’s more opening every day. The trendiest spots premier venue for classical music concerts, Macau Peninsula are clustered near the pubs in the NAPE area, %2888 0156; Cheoc Van Beach; mains MOP$55- dance performances and studio film screen- This once-monopolistic old-timer used to while the tacky nightclub floorshows and 180; h11am-11pm ings. To book tickets ring %2855 5555 or, be a bizarre icon in Macau. Those days are hostess clubs are on the casino strip. Next to the swimming pool at Cheoc Van in Hong Kong %2380 5083, or check the gone, but the tightly packed baccarat tables Beach, La Gondola is a good spot to soak website www.macauticket.net. The mammoth and pungent clouds of smoke still live on. up some beach-side views from the terrace D2 Map p320 Club Venetian Macau (p347 ) hosts a 15,000-seat indoor while enjoying your meal. It offers some %2872 3777; 2nd fl, AIA Tower, 301 Avenida Com- arena that will likely be a great place for live- MANDARIN ORIENTAL CASINO ercial de Macau, Macau Peninsula; h10pm-7am, excellent pizzas cooked in a wood-fired music performances. Map pp316–17 Casino oven. happy hour 11pm-2am Macau Travel Talk, a free bimonthly avail- %2856 4297; Mandarin Oriental, 956-1110 To strut your stuff on the dance floor, head able at MGTO outlets and larger hotels, has Avenida da Amizade, Macau Peninsula to the latest incarnation of DD, the former FERNANDO Map p330 Portuguese $$ useful entertainment listings at the back. Though the Mandarin cannot compete with (in)famous bar and dance club. It’s smaller %2888 2264; 9 Hác Sá Beach; starters MOP$22- the other casinos listed here, in terms of than its predecessor but more fashionable. 26, mains MOP$66-148, rice dishes MOP$60-66; size and riches, its gentility earns it a name. It’s full of young women dancing by 3am. A hnoon-9.30pm CASINOS place to revel, and to flirt. Fernando has a devoted clientele and is As of late 2007, Macau had 27 casinos. Most SANDS MACAU Map pp316–17 Casino famed for its seafood. It’s the perfect place of them are located at big hotels on the ‘casino %2888 3377; www.sands.com.mo; 23 Largo de NICOLE FASHION CLUB Map pp316–17 Club for a protracted, boozy lunch by the sea. strip’ along Avenida da Amizade, and provide Monte Carlo, Macau Peninsula %2872 8922; Block 1, Trinidad, Fisherman’s The bar stays open till midnight. frequent free shuttle service (h9.30am-midnight) to Run by the consortium from Vegas leading Wharf, Macau Peninsula; h10pm-6am and from both the ferry terminal and Portas Macau’s gambling business renaissance, it This glitzy bar is where partiers dress to im- RESTAURANTE PARQUE HÁC SÁ do Cerco. All casinos are open 24 hours. has a spacious atrium allowing natural light- press or be impressed. Resident and visiting Map p330 Portuguese $ The legal gambling age in Macau is 18 ing together with a fantastic array of crystal DJs host dance parties almost every night, %2888 2297; Hác Sá Sports & Recreation Park, years (21 for Macau residents). Photography lights. Only high rollers with US$10,000 mini- making it the best place on the Wharf. Estrada Nova de Hác Sá; snacks & sandwiches is absolutely prohibited inside the casinos. mum bets are invited to stay in its hotel. MOP$16-30, mains MOP$30-90; hnoon-11pm Men cannot wear shorts, even relatively long SKY 21 Map p320 Club This is a pleasant place for meals by the ones, or a singlet (undershirt) unless they VENETIAN MACAU Map p328 Casino %2822 2122, 2872 3344; www.sky21macau.com; beach at Hác Sá, with barbecue dishes have a shirt over it. Women wearing shorts %2882 8888; www.venetianmacao.com; Cotai Strip 21st fl, AIA Tower, 301 Avenida Comercial de Macau; figuring prominently on the menu. Dine or sleeveless tops are refused entry, the same As the world’s largest casino and three hnoon-11.30pm 21st-22nd fl, noon-3am bar area, inside or out on the terrace. for anyone wearing thongs (flip-flops). times the size of its Vegas counterpart, 5pm-2am 23rd fl 340 341 lonelyplanet.com Located in the same building as D2, this With live shows, music and the unbeatable connected to the Westin Resort Macau on lonelyplanet.com three-storey multiplex flashy club has a more MOP$100 all-you-can-drink during happy SPORTS & ACTIVITIES Coloane by walkway on the 9th floor, is open distinguished atmosphere, and ambitiously hour, MP3 has become a popular spot along to foreigners through the hotel. Green fees caters to people from all walks of life. DJs the strip. DJs spin all kinds of music; drag ACTIVITIES are MOP$800/$1500 on weekdays/weekends, from Portugal host dancing parties and queens and pose dancers dazzle your eyes. Cycling and you must have a handicap certificate to Troupe from Amsterdam dances everything You can rent bicycles (MOP$12 to MOP$18 tee off. There’s also a driving range (%2887 1111; from hip-hop to salsa. A big plus is its superb OLD TAIPA TAVERN Map p328 Bar, Live Music per hour) in Taipa Village from Mercearia Bicileta per 40 balls MOP$40), from where you drive balls view of and Macau Tower. %2882 5221; Rua dos Negociantes, Taipa; Aluguer (Map p328 ; %2882 7975; 36 Largo Governador into the ocean. hnoon-1am, happy hour 5-8pm Tamagini Barbosa), next to the Don Quixote res- DRINKING Known as ‘OTT’, its location next to the taurant. There’s no English spoken. Hiking The southern end of the NAPE area on Macau Pak Tai Temple at Taipa Village makes this Biking across the Macau–Taipa Bridges is prohibited. Although biking across the Cotai There are two trails on Guia Hill (Map pp316–17 ) , Peninsula (what locals call Lan Kwai Fong) is bar delightful. A wonderful band plays in central Macau Peninsula, which are good every Saturday. You can also have a sip road linking Taipa and Coloane is allowed, where to head for pub crawls. For a quieter it is also suicidal – and definitely not rec- for a stroll or jog. The Walk of 33 Curves (1.7km) drink, the local Portuguese and Macanese have while watching ritual performances at the circles the hill; inside this loop is the shorter temple. ommended – due to the many heavy trucks some wonderful, low-key places that are hidden plying the road. Fitness Circuit Walk, with 20 exercise stations. You away from the usual tourist haunts; in the unas- can access these by Guia Cable Car. suming buildings near the Flora Garden (Map VASCO Map pp316–17 Bar The Little Taipa Trail (Trilho de Taipa Pequena; pp316–17 ) and Kiang Wu Hospital (Map pp316–17 ), %793 3830; Ground fl, Mandarin Oriental, Gambling Map p328 ) is a 2km-long circuit around a hill you’ll need patience to unearth them, but you’ll MACAU 956-1110 Avenida da Amizade, Macau Peninsula; In 2007 Macau overtook Las Vegas as the (111m) of that name in northwestern Taipa MACAU be rewarded with the discovery of some pleas- h2pm-2am world’s casino capital. The story begins with the reachable via Estrada Lou Lim Ieok. The ingly authentic local watering holes. For a quiet place to drink, the Vasco lounge end of a casino monopoly held by ’s 2.2km-long Big Taipa Trail (Trilho de Taipa ENTERTAINMENT Macau Beer has a couple of its own brews: in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel is populated Sociedade de Turismo Diversoes de Macau Grande; Map p328 ) rings Taipa Grande, a 160m- & ACTIVITIES SPORTS the citrus-tasting Blond Ale and Amber Ale, mostly by beautiful urbanites. In the after- (STDM) in 2002. The gambling industry was high hill at the eastern end of the island. You which is quite hoppy. All sorts of ‘ruby’ ports noon it serves tapas-style afternoon tea. shaken up with the subsequent arrival of con- can access the trail via a short paved road off are available in Macau – the Parador is particu- sortia from Las Vegas. Revenue from gambling Estrada Colonel Nicolau de Mesquita. larly fine – but go for something different, such reached US$7.2 billion in 2006, but the passing WHISKY BAR Map pp316–17 Bar Coloane’s longest trail, the Coloane Trail as the evocatively named Lágrima do Christo of the baton to Macau is not without problems. (Trilho de Coloane; Map p330 ), begins at Seac (Tears of Christ), a white port. Some Portuguese % 2838 3838; 16th fl, Star World Hotel, Avenida da The number of addicted gamblers has increased Pai Van Park and is just over 8km long; the aguardentes (brandies) are worthwhile, such as Amizade, Macau Peninsula; h11am-2am Sun-Thu, drastically in Macau and the neighbouring main trailhead is called the Estrada do Alto Adega Velha and Antqua VSOP Aliança. 11am-3am Fri & Sat mainland. Very little has been done to curb The tacky Star World casino-hotel somehow gambling addiction so far. Other side-effects, de Coloane. The shorter Northeast Coloane Trail has a cheerful bar where you can have a (Trilho Nordeste de Coloane), near Ká Hó, CASABLANCA CAFÉ Map pp316–17 Bar such as money laundering, domestic violence pleasant glimpse of the Guia Lighthouse runs for about 3km. Other trails that offer %2875 1281; Ground fl, Vista Magnífica Court and prostitution, have also shot up. flashing at night. Get a window seat. good hiking include the 1.5km-long Altinho Bldg, Avenida Doutor Sun Yat Sen, Macau Peninsula; Although the games in Macau are some- what different from those played in Las Vegas de Ká Hó Trail and the 1.5km-long Hác Sá Reservoir h6pm-4am, happy hour 6-8pm Circuit (Circuito da Barragem de Hác Sá), which Next to the famous Moonwalker is this THEATRE and elsewhere (see the boxed text, p344 ), the There’s very little in the way of legitimate same basic principles apply. No matter what both loop around the reservoir to the north- favourite hang-out for the Portuguese. It west of Hác Sá Beach. has a long list of cocktails, plays cold jazz in theatre in Macau, though, as in Las Vegas, the game, the casino enjoys a built-in math- the background and is considered the best floorshows – including the following two – are ematical advantage. In the short term, anyone spot to chill out in NAPE. popular. can hit a winning streak and get ahead, but the longer you play, the more certain it is that the SPECTATOR SPORTS The Macau Stadium (Estádio de Macau; Map p328 ; CRAZY PARIS SHOW Map p320 Theatre odds will catch up with you. MOONWALKER BAR Map pp316–17 Bar %2883 8208; www.sport.gov.mo; Avenida Olímpica), next %2875 1326; Ground fl, Vista Magnífica Court %2838 2828; Grand Lisboa Casino, Avenida de to the Macau Jockey Club on Taipa Island, Bldg, Avenida Doutor Sun Yat Sen, Macau Peninsula; Lisboa, Macau Peninsula; h9pm-midnight Go-Karting seats 16,250 people and hosts international h4pm-4am, happy hour 4-8pm The Crazy Paris Show features a multitude The Coloane Kartodrome (Map p330 ; %2888 2126; soccer matches and athletics competitions. Moonwalker features fun live entertain- of leggy women onstage strutting around Estrada de Seac Pai Van; h11.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am- On the first Sunday in December the Macau ment on most nights (usually Filipina in a couple of beads and a feather or two. 8.30pm Sat & Sun), run by the Macau Motorsports International Marathon starts and finishes chanteuses), and is considered the most Club, is the region’s most popular venue for here. The impressive Macau Dome (Map p330 ) famous (and expensive) one among its JAI ALAI SHOW PALACE go-karting. There’s a choice of seven circuits. on Coloane was built to host the 2005 East neighbours. Map pp316–17 Theatre It costs MOP$100/$180 for 10/20 minutes; a Asian Games and the 2007 Indoor Asian %2872 6126; 3rd fl, Jai Alai Complex, Travessa do two-seater is MOP$150 for 10 minutes. Races Games. Its main arena seats more than 7000 are held on Sunday. MP3 Map pp316–17 Bar Reservatório, Macau Peninsula;h7pm-2am spectators. %2875 1306; www.mp3barlounge.com; Ground Come here to witness lots of women wan- For details of forthcoming events, contact fl, Vista Magnífica Court Bldg, 1333 Avenida Doutor nabes (it’s a transvestite show) doing what Golf the Macau Sports Institute (Instituto do Desporto de Macau; Sun Yat Sen, Macau Peninsula; h6pm-4am, happy the girls in the Crazy Paris Show do – only The 18-hole, par-71 course at Macau Golf & Country Map pp316–17 ; %2858 0762, 2888 1836; Macau Forum, hour 6-9pm much better. Club (Map p330 ; %2887 1188; 1918 Estrada de Hác Sá), Avenida do Doutor Rodrigo Rodrigues). 342 343 lonelyplanet.com races per night, with six to eight dogs chasing There are watersports equipment stands where SOME FUN & GAMES IN MACAU a mechanical rabbit around the 455m oval you can hire windsurfing boards, jet skis and track at speeds of up to 60km/h. If you want water scooters at either end of Hác Sá Beach. Baccarat to sit in the members’ stands, it costs MOP$80 Also known as chemin de fer (railroad), this has become the card game of choice for the upper crust of Macau’s gambling weekdays and MOP$120 on the weekend. elite. Baccarat rooms are always the classiest part of any casino, and the minimum wager is high – MOP$1000 at some SLEEPING casinos. Two hands are dealt simultaneously: a player hand and a bank hand. Players can bet on either (neither is actu- With a host of new hotels on the way, Macau ally the house hand), and the one that scores closest to nine is the winner. The casino deducts a percentage if the bank Grand Prix The biggest sporting event of the year is the will have some great hotel rooms with cheap hand wins, which is how the house makes its profit. If the player understands the game properly, the house enjoys only rates in the coming years. Usually hotels with Macau Formula 3 Grand Prix, held in the a slightly better than 1% advantage over the player. casinos attached charge lower rates, and sub- third week of November. The 6.2km Guia cir- stantial discounts (30% or more) are available cuit (Map pp316–17 ) starts near the Lisboa Hotel for hotels of three stars and above if you book Blackjack and follows the shoreline along Avenida da Also known as 21, it is an easy game, although it requires some skill to play it well. The dealer takes a card and gives through a travel agency. In Hong Kong many Amizade, going around the reservoir and back Shun Tak Centre (Map p70 ; another to the players. Face cards count as 10, aces as one or 11. Cards are dealt one at a time – the goal is to get as of these agents are at the through the city. It is a testing series of twists 200 Connaught Rd Central, Sheung Wan), from where the close as possible to 21 (blackjack) without going over. If you go over 21 you ‘bust’, or lose. Players are always dealt their and turns – including the infamous Melco cards before the dealer, so if they bust they will always bust before the dealer does. This is what gives the casino the ferries to Macau depart. You can book your hairpin – that calls on drivers’ reserves of room upon arrival at one of the many hotel edge over the player. If the dealer and player both get 21, it’s a tie and the bet is cancelled. If players get 21, they win skill and daring. desks in the ferry terminal pier in Macau, but even money plus a 50% bonus. Dealers must draw until they reach 16, and stand on 17 or higher. The player is free to Certain zones in Macau are designated as be aware that hotel prices can double or even decide when to stand or when to draw. viewing areas for the races. Streets and alleys

MACAU treble on the weekend, on public holidays or MACAU along the track are blocked off, so it’s unlikely during the summer high season. Boule that you’ll be able to find a decent vantage Most large hotels add a 10% service charge SPORTS & ACTIVITIES SPORTS This is very similar to roulette, except that boule is played with a ball about the size of a billiard ball, and there are point without paying for it. Prices for seats and 5% government tax to the bill. Prices SLEEPING fewer numbers – 24 numbers plus a star. The payoff is 23 to one on numbers. On all bets (numbers, red or black, odd in the Reservoir Stand are MOP$250/350 for listed here are the rack rates quoted to walk- or even), the casino has a 4% advantage over players. a single day/package (which includes practise in customers. days and qualifying events before the start of the actual races) and from MOP$450 to Daai-sai MOP$650 at the Lisboa and Grand Stands MACAU PENINSULA Cantonese for ‘big little’, this game is also known as sìk-bó (dice treasure) or chàai sìk (guessing dice) and remains popular (MOP$900 for the package). To watch just You can find a wide range of choices from in Macau. Three dice are placed in a covered glass container, the container is then shaken and you bet on whether the the practise days and qualifying events costs cheap hotels and guesthouses through to top- toss will be from three to nine (small) or 10 to 18 (big). However, you lose on combinations where all three dice come MOP$50. For ticket enquiries and book- end resorts in Macau. From 2008 to 2009 con- up the same (2-2-2, 3-3-3 etc) unless you bet directly on three of a kind. For betting daai-sai the house advantage is ings call %796 2268 or consult www.macau sortia will add a number of big names here, 2.78%. Betting on a specific three of a kind gives the house a 30% advantage. .grandprix.gov.mo. such as Hotel Sofitel at Ponte 16, and a new Mandarin Oriental at MGM Grand Macau. Fàan-tàan Horse Racing This ancient Chinese game is practically unknown in the West. The dealer takes an inverted silver cup and plunges it into Regular flat racing takes place at the Taipa WYNN MACAU Map pp316–17 Hotel $$$ a pile of porcelain buttons, then moves the cup to one side. After all bets have been placed, the buttons are counted out racetrack (Hipodromo da Taipa) of the Macau %2888 9966; www.wynnmacau.com; Rua Cidae in groups of four. You have to bet on how many will remain after the last set of four has been taken out. Jockey Club (Jockey Clube de Macau; Map p328 ; %2882 1188, de Sintra, NAPE; r MOP$3000-3700, ste from racing information hotline 2882 0868, Hong Kong hotline 800 MOP$7800 Pàai-gáu 967 822; www.macauhorse.com; Estrada Governador Albano de This five-star American-style resort has huge, impressive rooms with high ceilings, This is a form of Chinese dominoes similar to mahjong. One player is made banker and the others compare their hands Oliveira; admission MOP$20; g11, 15, 22) through most and almost everything automated. Bonuses against the banker’s. The casino doesn’t play, but deducts a 3% commission from the winnings for providing the of the year, usually on Saturday or Sunday include its outdoor swimming pool and gambling facilities. from 2pm, and midweek (generally Tuesday or Wednesday) from 5pm. Summer recess some very serious restaurants. lasts from late August to mid-September. Roulette POUSADA DE SÃO TIAGO The dealer spins the roulette wheel in one direction and tosses a ball the other way. Roulette wheels have 36 numbers Map pp316–17 Hotel $$$ plus a zero, so your chance of hitting any given number is one in 37. The payoff is 35 to one, which is what gives the WATER SPORTS %2837 8111; www.saotiago.com.mo; Avenida da casino its advantage. Rather than betting on a single number, it’s much easier to win if you bet odd versus even, or red The Hác Sá Sports & Recreation Park (Map p330 ; %2888 República; r MOP$2600-3200, ste from MOP$4200 versus black numbers, which only gives the house a 2.7% advantage. If the ball lands on zero, everyone loses to the 2296; Estrada Nova de Hác Sá, Coloane; h8am-9pm Sun-Fri, The landmark São Tiago is built into the ruins house (unless you also bet on the zero). 8am-11pm Sat), by the beach, has an outdoor swim- of the 17th-century Barra Fort and is one of ming pool (adult/child/student MOP$15/5/7; h8am-noon the most romantic places to stay in Macau. admission MOP$10; g1, 1A, 3, 25), in the northern & 1-9pm Sun-Fri, 8am-noon & 1-11pm Sat). Dog Racing part of the Macau Peninsula, is the only facil- The Cheoc Van swimming pool (Map p330; %2887 MANDARIN ORIENTAL Map pp316–17 Hotel $$$ Macau’s Canidrome (Map pp316–17; %2822 1199, racing ity for greyhound racing in Asia. Greyhound 0277), which costs the same for entry and keeps %2856 7888; www.mandarinoriental.com; 956- information hotline 2833 3399, Hong Kong hotline 800 932 199; races are held on Monday, Thursday, Friday, the same hours as the Hác Sá pool, is at the 1110 Avenida da Amizade; r MOP$2000-2600, ste www.macauyydog.com; Avenida do General Castelo Branco; Saturday and Sunday at 7.30pm. There are 16 southern end of the beach. from MOP$5300 344 345 This classy hotel is notable for its impec- This centrally located three-star hotel often AUGUSTERS LODGE Map p320 Guesthouse $ At the time of writing only this landmark cable service and its spa with impressive has a 50% discount and is a better place to %2871 3242; www.augusters.de; Flat 3J, Block hotel was complete and ready for service natural surroundings. As a long-standing fa- stay than Metro Park. Rooms are spotless, 4, Edif Kam Loi, 24 Rua Do Dr Pedro José Lobo; dm in the Venetian Macau megaresort. The vourite with tourists, it’s always full during but those facing Grand Emperor Hotel may MOP$80, d MOP$150, tr MOP$200; g3, 3A, 10, 32-storey tower has 3000 luxurious suites. the weekends. find the big LED screen disturbing. It pro- 10A, 10B, AP1 Other amenities include a bizarre replica of vides a shuttle service to the ferry terminal If you’re looking for something similar to a the Venice canals, afloat with gondola and ROCKS HOTEL Map pp316–17 Hotel $$$ every 15 minutes. backpackers hub, head to this tiny, friendly Chinese sampans. Four Seasons, Shangrila %295 6528; www.rockshotel.com.mo; Macau guesthouse. Rooms are basic but clean, and Sheraton etc are all on their way. Fisherman’s Wharf; r MOP$1880-2580, ste from RITZ HOTEL Map pp316–17 Hotel $$ with shared bathrooms. It’s located above MOP$4080 %2833 9955; www.ritzhotel.com.mo; 11-13 Rua the CTM shop. HOTEL TAIPA Map p328 Hotel $$ This elegant Victorian boutique hotel is do Comendador Kou Ho Neng; r MOP$1080-1380, %2882 1666; www.hoteltaipa.com; 822 Estrada set amid a tribal-hut African restaurant ste from MOP$2080 SAN VA HOSPEDARIA Map p320 Guesthouse $ Governador Nobre Carvalho; r MOP$880-1680, ste and Babylon Casino, reminding you that This palace of a place, in a quiet street high %2857 3701; www.sanvahotel.com; 67 Rua de MOP$2280-4280 you’re in the middle of a theme park. The above Avenida da República, is as close Felicidade; r MOP$70-100 If you want to avoid the casino-hotels on rooms are decent and most have a view as you’ll get to staying at the legendary This traditional-style guesthouse has sur- Taipa, this hotel’s a decent place to stay, of the waterfront. It also has very afford- Bela Vista across the road. This good-value, vived since 1873 and definitely has char- though it’s lacking in character. It’s an air- able shuttle services with its Nissan Cefiro five-star hotel has a wonderful recreation acter, though the cupboard-like rooms, crew’s favourite and has less tourist groups (MOP$30/60/90 to Macau/Taipa/Coloane) centre, with a huge heated pool. separated by filmsy cardboard partitions, are staying here. and Benz-Mercedes (MOP$150/250/350 to pretty spartan and a few rooms are occupied MACAU Macau/Taipa/Coloane). GUIA HOTEL Map pp316–17 Hotel $$ by the homeless. Even if you don’t stay here Coloane Island MACAU %2851 3888; [email protected]; 1-5 Estrada do overnight, it can be a great cheap place to WESTIN RESORT MACAU SLEEPING LISBOA HOTEL Map pp316–17 Hotel $$$ Engenheiro Trigo; r MOP$850-1080, tr MOP$980, ste hang out on an afternoon if you get the very SLEEPING %2837 7666; www.hotellisboa.com; 2-4 Avenida from MOP$1480 affordable room with balcony (MOP$90), Map p330 Hotel $$$ de Lisboa; r MOP$1650-3000, ste from MOP$3800 If you want something smaller and a bit buy some Chinese pastries and some drinks %2887 1111; www.westin.com/macau; 1918 The Hotel Lisboa, one of Macau’s most ‘isolated’, choose this place at the foot of at the specialty food stores downstairs ( p333 ), Estrada de Hác Sá; r MOP$2200-2700, ste from famous landmarks, is known locally for its Guia Hill. The recently renovated rooms and relax on the balcony as you people- MOP$5000 unrestrained outlandishly gaudy looks and are extremely clean and comfortable. The watch over this older part of Chinese Macau. This ‘island resort’ complex is on the east- its raunchy atmosphere. For many punters friendly and accommodating staff speak ern side of Hác Sá Beach. Each room has a its casino remains the only game in town, fairly adequate English. large terrace. The overall atmosphere is that and hookers hunt for clients at the shop- TAIPA & COLOANE ISLANDS of a country club, with an attached 18-hole Taipa is a very happening place with the golf course ( p343 ), two swimming pools, an ping arcade. At the time of writing, the POUSADA DE MONG HÁ hotel was under renovation; hopefully its commencement of massive land-reclama- outdoor spa, and sauna and fitness centre Map pp316–17 Inn $$ tion projects on the Cotai strip bringing in on 60 hectares of land. The resort’s Panorama facilities and services will be upgraded. % 2851 5222; www.ift.edu.mo; Colina de a bunch of top-end accommodation options. Lounge (%899 1020; h11am-1am) is a delight- Mong Há; s/d Mon-Fri MOP$500/600, Sat & Sun Coloane offers quite a diversity of places to ful spot for a sundowner. METRO PARK HOTEL Map pp316–17 Hotel $$ MOP$600/800, ste Mon-Fri MOP$1000, Sat & Sun stay – from two budget hostels to a ‘cosy’ inn %2878 1233; www.metroparkmacau.com; MOP$1200 to the territory’s most exclusive resort. 199 Rua de Pequim; r MOP$1680-2300, ste from This traditional-style Portuguese inn sits POUSADA DE COLOANE Map p330 Inn $$ MOP$2800 atop Mong Há Hill, near the ruins of a fort %2888 2143; fax 2882 251; Estrada de Cheoc Van; Rooms are small and the service so-so, built in 1849. It is run by students at the Taipa Island s & d MOP$680-750, tr MOP$880-950 This inn has rooms furnished with some but this is a good-value casino-free option Instituto de Formação Turística (Institute for CROWN MACAU Map p328 Hotel $$$ fantastic Portuguese-style décor overlook- along the casino strip. A plus is a regular Tourism Studies), so service is more than % 2886 8888; www.crown-macau.com; Avenida de ing Cheoc Van Beach and has a relaxed substantial discount (40% or more). eager. Rates include breakfast. The restau- Kwong Tung; r MOP$3080, ste from MOP$4180 rant here is open from noon to 3pm for atmosphere. It serves a good Sunday lunch Located next to the notorious Regency buffet (MOP$120) and the restaurant has a HOTEL SINTRA Map p320 Hotel $$ lunch on weekdays, from 7pm to 10.30pm Hotel (the hotel staff are terribly rude) is nice bar area. %2871 0111; www.hotelsintra.com; Avenida de on Friday for a Macanese buffet (MOP$160). this recently opened ‘six-star hotel’, where Dom João IV; r MOP$1160-1760, ste from MOP$2360 Afternoon tea (3pm to 6pm) and cake-of- you are supposed to feel like a king, with the-month is served at its atmospheric café. three servants per guest. This has yet to POUSADA DE JUVENTUDE DE prove itself, but the rooms are indeed CHEOC VAN Map p330 Hostel $ EAST ASIA HOTEL Map p320 Hotel $ impressive and spacious, and each has its %2888 2024; Rua de António Francisco; dm/d PRICE GUIDE %2892 2433; fax 922 431; 1A Rua da Madeira; s own lounge area. Sun-Fri MOP$40/70, Sat MOP$50/100 The price guide for rooms in Macau. Breakfast is usu- MOP$270-370, d MOP$400-500, ste MOP$720 To stay either here or at the hostel at Hác ally included with hotels marked $$ and $$$. The East Asia is housed in a classic green- VENETIAN MACAO RESORT HOTEL Sá, you must book through the Education % $$$ Over MOP$1650 and-white colonial-style building and, Map p328 Hotel $$$ & Youth Services Department ( 2855 5533, 397 $$ MOP$500-1650 though it’s been remodelled, has not lost %2882 8888; www.venetianmacao.com; Cotai 2640; www.dsej.gov.mo) and have a Hostelling $ Under MOP$500 all of its charm. The rooms are simple but Strip; ste MOP$1600-4500 International (HI) card. During the high spacious. season (summer and holidays) competition 346 347 for beds is high and it might be shut alto- speed catamarans from the Macau ferry visas at the border with Zhuhai, but it will Macau at 10am, 2pm, 6pm and 8.15pm and lonelyplanet.com gether in August. The hostel has a garden terminal every half-hour or so between 7am ultimately save you time if you buy one in takes 1½ hours; they return from Shekou at and a small kitchen for making hot drinks. and 8.30pm. In Hong Kong they leave the advance. These are available in Hong Kong 8.15am, 11.45am, 3.45pm and 6.30pm. Tickets China ferry terminal (Map p92; Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui) (see p286 ) or in Macau from China Travel Service (adult/child MOP$114/$67) can be bought POUSADA DE JUVENTUDE DE HÁC SÁ on the half-hour from 7am to 9pm or 10pm. (CTS; Map pp316–17 ; %2870 0888; 207 Avenida do Dr Ro- up to three days in advance from the point Map p330 Hostel $ The trip takes 60 to 75 minutes and tickets drigo Rorigues, Nam Kwong Bldg; h9am-6pm), usually of departure, which is pier 14 (Map p320 ) in the %2888 2701; Rua de Hác-Sá Long Chao Kok; dm/d/ cost HK$140/175 on weekdays/nights (ie in one day. Inner Harbour. A departure tax of MOP$20 q Sun-Fri MOP$40/50/70, Sat MOP$50/70/100 from 6pm to 9pm or 10pm from Hong Kong applies. This circular, grey-tiled building, at the and 6.30pm to 8.30pm from Macau), and Sampans and ferries also leave from the southern end of Hác Sá Beach, is more HK$155/175 on weekends and public holi- Air same pier for Wanzai (MOP$12.50) on the % modern than the Cheoc Van hostel, though days. Deluxe class is HK$245/275 on week- Air Macau (NX; Map pp316–17 ; 396 5555; www.airmacau mainland, crossing the Inner Harbour. De- it’s sometimes reserved for groups only. days/nights and HK$260/275 on weekends .com.mo; Ground fl, Nam Ngan Garden Bldg, 398 Alameda partures are every half-hour between 8am and and public holidays. Doutor Carlos d’Assumpção; h9am-6pm) and/or sev- 4.15pm, returning a half-hour later. Macau is also linked directly to Hong Kong eral carriers of the China National Aviation Corpora- International Airport by the TurboJet Sea Express tion (CNAC; Map p320 ; %2878 8034; fax 2878 8036; 5th fl, TRANSPORT (%2859 3333; www.turbojetseaexpress.com.hk), which Iat Teng Hou Bldg, Avenida de Dom João IV) group link MACAU TO ASIA Apart from AirAsia (%in Hong Kong 3167 2299; www leaves at 9.45am, 1pm, 3pm, 4.30pm and 8pm. Macau International Airport (Map p328 ; %2886 1111; www MACAU TO HONG KONG .airasia.com), new budget airline Viva Macau (www.fly It costs MOP$200/155/110 per adult/child/in- .macau-airport.gov.mo) with at least five flights a vivamacau.com) is expected to service destinations Air fant and takes 45 minutes. week to Beijing, Fuzhou, Guilin, Hangzhou, MACAU Travel to Macau by helicopter is a viable op- The new Macau Express Link (%2886 1111, in Hong including Mumbai, Delhi, Jakarta, Manila and MACAU Kunming, Shanghai, Xiamen and Xian. The Sydney by the time you read this. The website tion and is becoming increasingly popular for Kong 2859 3401), run by Turbojet and seven air- departure tax for adults is MOP$80 and for residents and visitors alike. www.gomacau.com acts as a consolidator. The

TRANSPORT lines operating in Macau, connects Macau children aged two to 12 MOP$50. TRANSPORT Heli Express (%2872 7288, in Hong Kong 2108 9898; departure tax for adults is MOP$130 and for International Airport to Hong Kong. Passen- Heli Express (%2872 7288, in Hong Kong 2108 9898; children aged two to 12 MOP$80. www.heliexpress.com) runs a 16-minute helicop- gers are able to check-in and transit straight www.heliexpress.com) has a helicopter shuttle link- ter shuttle service between Macau and Hong through to Macau from Shop G02 at the ferry ing Macau with Shenzhen five times a day Kong (HK$1900, tax included) with up to 28 terminal at Shun Tak Centre. Make sure you from 9.45am to 7.45pm (11.45am to 8.30pm CAR & MOTORCYCLE daily flights leaving between 9am and 10.30pm arrive at the ferry terminal three hours before from Shenzhen) for HK$1900 (HK$1990 from The streets of Macau Peninsula are a gridlock (9.30am to 11pm from Hong Kong). Flights flight departure. You’ll be given a temporary Shenzhen). The trip takes 25 minutes. of cars and mopeds that will cut you off at arrive and depart in Macau from the roof boarding pass after you check in. When you every turn. A Moke (a brightly coloured Jeep- of the ferry terminal (Map pp316–17; %790 7240). In arrive at the ferry terminal in Macau, you like convertible) can be a convenient way to Hong Kong departures are from the helipad do not need to go through immigration, but Land explore the islands, as can a motorbike. atop the ferry pier that is linked to the Shun Tak instead, proceed to the Express Link waiting Macau is an easy gateway by land into China. Centre (Map p70 ; %2859 3359; 200 Connaught Rd Central) room at Berth 2, and a transit bus (four daily Simply take bus 3, 5 or 9 to the border gate (Portas in Sheung Wan. from 11am to 6.30pm; from Macau airport, do Cerco; off Map pp316–17 ; h7am-midnight) and walk Hire six departures between noon and 8pm) will across. A second – and much less busy cross- Happy Rent A Car (Map pp316–17 ; %2872 6868; fax 2872 take you directly to the airport. The fare is the ing – is the Cotai Frontier Post (Map p330 ; h9am-8pm) 6888), in room 1025 of the ferry terminal ar- Sea same as the normal Turbojet service. on the causeway linking Taipa and Coloane, rivals hall, has four-person Mokes available The vast majority of people make their way Tickets can be booked up to 28 days in which allows visitors to cross over the Lotus for hire for MOP$450 a day. Mokes seating from Macau to Hong Kong by ferry. The advance at the ferry terminals, many travel Flower Bridge by shuttle bus (MOP$4) to six are available from Avis Rent A Car (Map pp316–17 ; journey takes just an hour and there are fre- agencies or online. You can also simply buy Zhuhai. Buses 15, 21 and 26 will drop you % quent departures throughout the day, with 2833 6789; www.avis.com.mo; Room 1022, Ground fl, tickets on the spot, though advance booking off at the crossing. Macau ferry terminal; h8am-7pm), which also has reduced service between midnight and 7am. is recommended if you travel on weekends If you want to travel further afield in China, Two ferry companies operate services to and an office at the Mandarin Oriental hotel car or public holidays. There is a standby queue buses run by the Kee Kwan Motor Road Co (Map p320 ; from Macau, one from Hong Kong Island park; they cost MOP$500/$600 per day on for passengers wanting to travel before their %2893 3888; h7.15am-9pm) leave the bus station weekdays/weekends. for the most part and the other usually from ticketed sailing. You need to arrive at the pier Tsim Sha Tsui. on Rua das Lorchas. Buses for Guangzhou at least 15 minutes before departure, but you (MOP$55, 2½ hours) depart about every 15 TurboJet (%790 7039, in Hong Kong information 2859 should allow 30 minutes because of occasional minutes and for Zhongshan (MOP$25, one PUBLIC TRANSPORT 3333, bookings 2921 6688; www.turbojet.com.hk) operates long queues at immigration. hour) every 20 minutes between 8am and Public buses and minibuses run by TCM three types of vessels (economy/superclass You are limited to 10kg of carry-on luggage 6.30pm. There are many buses to Guangzhou (%2885 0060) and Transmac (%2877 1122) operate Monday to Friday HK$142/$244, Saturday in economy class, but oversized or overweight (MOP$75) and Dongguan (MOP$80) from on 40 routes from 6.45am till shortly after to Sunday MOP$154/260, night crossing bags can be checked. Macau International Airport. midnight. Fares – MOP$2.50 on the penin- MOP$176/275), from the ferry terminal in sula, MOP$3.30 to Taipa Village, MOP$4 to Macau and the Shun Tak Centre in Hong Coloane Village, MOP$5 to Hác Sá Beach – Kong, which take between 55 and 65 min- MACAU TO CHINA Sea are dropped into a box upon entry; there’s no utes. Nationals of Australia, Canada, EU, New A daily ferry run by the Yuet Tung Shipping Co change given. New World First Ferry (NWFF; %2872 7676, in Hong Zealand and most other countries (but not (%2877 4478) connects Macau with the port of The Macau Tourist Map (p351 ) has a full Kong 2131 8181; www.nwff.com.hk) operates high- US citizens) will be able to purchase their Shekou in Shenzhen. The boat departs from list of both bus companies’ routes. The two 348 349 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com most useful buses on the peninsula are buses Coates’ City of Broken Promises, a fictional- Ambulance (%2837 8311) Kiang Wu Hospital (Map pp316–17 ; %2837 1333; Rua 3 and 3A, which run between the ferry termi- ised account of 18th-century Macanese trader Consumer Council (%988 9315) de Coelho do Amaral) Northeast of the ruins of the Church nal and the city centre, near the post office. Martha Merop (p319 ) , is a classic. Lights and of St Paul. Bus 3 continues up to the border crossing Shadows of a Macao Life: the Journal of Har- Fire service (%2857 2222) with the mainland, as does bus 5, which can riett Low, Travelling Spinster, by Harriett Low Police (%2857 3333) be boarded along Avenida Almeida Ribeiro. Hillard, is an American woman’s account of Tourist Assistance Hotline (%2834 0390) From 9am MONEY Bus 12 runs from the ferry terminal, past the Macau from 1829 to 1834. For short stories, to 6pm. Macau’s currency is the pataca (MOP$), Lisboa Hotel and then up to the Lou Lim Ioc you won’t do better than Visions of China: Sto- which is divided up into 100 avos. Bills Garden and Kun Iam Temple. ries from Macau, edited by David Brookshaw, are issued in denominations of MOP$10, The best services to Taipa and Coloane which includes works by writers with strong HOLIDAYS MOP$20, MOP$50, MOP$100, MOP$500 are buses 21, 21A, 25 and 26A. Bus 22 goes Macau connections, including Henrique de In Macau half-days are allowed on the day be- and MOP$1000. There are little copper coins to Taipa, terminating at the Macau Jockey Senna Fernandes. If you want to learn more fore the start of Chinese New Year and on the worth 10, 20 and 50 avos, and silver-coloured Club. Buses to the airport are AP1, 26, MT1 about Macau’s distinctive hybrid cuisine, try day of New Year’s Eve. For holidays celebrated MOP$1, MOP$2, MOP$5 and MOP$10 and MT2. Annabel Jackson’s Taste of Macau: Portuguese in both Hong Kong and Macau, see p293. The coins. The pataca is pegged to the Hong Kong Macau is suffering from a severe shortage Cuisine on the China Coast. following are public holidays in Macau only. dollar at the rate of MOP$103.20 to HK$100. of drivers, so you may have to wait at least These books can be found at Livararia (Map All Souls’ Day 2 November As a result, exchange rates for the pataca are 20 minutes for a bus. Expect buses to be very p320; %2856 6442; 18-20 Rua de São Domingos; h11am- Feast of the 8 December crowded. Hopping aboard the free casino virtually the same as for the Hong Kong dol- 7pm Mon-Sat) or BookaChino (Map pp316–17; %2872 Macau SAR Establishment Day 20 December lar, which is accepted everywhere in Macau. shuttles (p340 ) to some of the sights is a viable 3362; 434 Rua Cidade de Santarém; h11am-8pm). MACAU alternative. The shuttles depart from both the Winter Solstice 22 December When you spend Hong Kong dollars in big MACAU ferry terminal and Portas do Cerco every 10 hotels, restaurants and department stores, usually your change will be returned in that

DIRECTORY minutes between 9.30am and midnight. Origi- BUSINESS HOURS DIRECTORY nally they were designed to bring Hong Kong Most government offices are open from 9am INTERNET ACCESS currency. Try to use up all your patacas before and the mainland gamblers to spend money, In NAPE, you can check your email at the leaving Macau. to 1pm and 2.30pm to 5.30pm or 5.45pm on % but in reality nobody checks whether you go Unesco Internet Café (Map pp316–17; 2872 7066; Most ATMs allow you to choose between weekdays. Banks normally open from 9am to Alameda Doutor Carlos d’Assumpção; per 30/60min MOP$5/10; gambling or not, and now Macau citizens patacas and Hong Kong dollars, and credit 5pm weekdays and to 1pm on Saturday. hnoon-8pm Wed-Mon), and for free at two termi- use them regularly instead of waiting for the cards are readily accepted at Macau’s ho- nals in the MGTO (Map p320 ; %397 1120; h9am-6pm) never-coming buses. tels, larger restaurants and casinos. You can CLIMATE at Largo do Senado. also change cash and travellers cheques at Macau’s climate is similar to Hong Kong’s the banks lining Avenida da Praia Grande TAXI ( p288 ), with one major difference: there is a and Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro, as well as LEFT LUGGAGE at major hotels. Flag fall is MOP$10 for the first 1.5km and delightfully cool sea breeze on warm summer There are electronic lockers on both the ar- MOP$1 for each additional 200m. There is a evenings along the waterfront. rivals and departure levels of the Macau ferry Banco Comercial de Macau (Map p320 ; %2879 1000; MOP$5 surcharge to go to Coloane; travelling terminal. They cost MOP$20 or MOP$25, 572 Avenida da Praia Grande; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, between Taipa and Coloane is MOP$2 extra. depending on the size, for the first two hours 9am-12.30pm Sat) Journeys starting from the airport incur an CUSTOMS and MOP$25/30 for each additional 12-hour extra charge of MOP$5. A taxi from the air- Customs formalities are virtually nonexist- Banco Nacional Ultramarino (Map p320 ; %2835 5111; period. There is also a left-luggage office on 22 Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro; h9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) port to the centre of town should cost about ent here, but Hong Kong only allows you to the departures level that’s open from 6.45am MOP$40. Large bags cost an extra MOP$3. import small amounts of duty-free tobacco to midnight daily. It charges MOP$10 for the Bank of China (Map p320 ; %2878 1828; Avenida do For yellow radio taxi call %2851 9519 or and alcohol (see p290 ). first six hours and another MOP$10 till mid- Doutor Mario Soares; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri) %2893 9939. Again, flagging a taxi in the night. Each additional day costs MOP$10. downtown area can be as difficult as getting HSBC (Map p320 ; %2855 3669; 639 Avenida da Praia a bus. Good luck. DISCOUNT CARDS Grande; h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) The Macau Museums Pass, a card allowing MAPS you entry to Grand Prix Museum, the Macau The MGTO distributes the excellent (and free) Wine Museum, the Maritime Museum, Lin Macau Tourist Map, with major tourist sights POST DIRECTORY Correios de Macau, Macau’s postal system, is and streets labelled in English, Portuguese and Much of the advice given for Hong Kong ap- Zexu Memorial Hall in Lin Fung Temple, efficient and inexpensive. the Macau Museum of Art and the Macau Chinese characters, small inset maps of Taipa plies to Macau as well. If you find any sections The main post office (Map p320 ; %2832 3666; 126 Museum, valid for five days, is available for and Coloane, and bus routes marked. missing here, refer to the ones in the Hong Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am- Kong Directory chapter (p287 ) . MOP$25/12 for adults/concessions, from the MGTO or any participating museum. 1pm Sat) faces Largo do Senado; pick up poste MEDICAL SERVICES restante from counter 1 or 2. There are other BOOKS Macau’s two hospitals both have 24-hour post offices in Macau Peninsula, including a Macau: The Imaginary City: Culture and So- EMERGENCY emergency services. Macau ferry terminal branch (Map pp316–17; %2872 8079; ciety, 1577 to Present, by Jonathan Porter, In the event of any emergency, phone the cen- Conde São Januário Central Hospital (Map pp316–17 ; h10am-7pm Mon-Sat). provides a vivid account of Macau’s history. tral SOS number (%999) for the fire services, po- %2831 3731; Estrada do Visconde de São Januário) Domestic letters cost MOP$1.5/$2 for Novels set in Macau are rare, but Austin lice or an ambulance. Important numbers: Southwest of the Guia Fort. up to 20/50g, while those to Hong Kong 350 351 © Lonely Planet Publications lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com are MOP$2.50/$4. For international mail, Tourist Hotline (%2833 3000) Macau divides the world into zones: zone TurboJet (%790 7039) 1 (MOP$4/$5 for up to 10/20g) is east and Southeast Asia; zone 2 (MOP$5/$6.50) is everywhere else except for the main- TOURIST INFORMATION land (MOP$3.50/$4.50) and Portugal The Macau Government Tourist Office (MGTO; %2831 (MOP$4/$5.50). 5566; www.macautourism.gov.mo) is a well-organised EMS Speedpost (%2859 6688) is available at the and helpful source of information. It has a main post office. Other companies that can ar- half-dozen outlets scattered around town, range express forwarding are DHL (%2837 2828), including ones in the Largo do Senado (Map p320 ; Federal Express (%2870 3333) and UPS (%2875 1616). %397 1120; h9am-6pm), at the Guia Lighthouse (Map pp316–17 ; %2856 9808; h9am-1pm & 2.15-5.30pm), at the ruins of the Church of St Paul (Map p320; %2835 TELEPHONE 8444; h10am-6pm) and in the Macau ferry terminal Macau’s telephone service provider is Com- (Map pp316–17 ; %2872 6416; h9am-10pm), which panhia de Telecomunicações de Macau (CTM; %inquiry dispense information and a large selection of hotline 1000; www.ctm.net). Note that from 2007, free literature, including pamphlets on every- the initial digits of ‘28’ were added to all six- thing from Chinese temples and Catholic digit telephone numbers and fax numbers, churches to fortresses, gardens and walks. The MACAU and ‘6’ was added to mobile phone numbers. MGTO also runs a tourist assistance unit (%2834 MACAU But seven-digit telephone numbers remain 0390; h9am-6pm) to help travellers who may unchanged. DIRECTORY have run into trouble. Local calls are free from private telephones, MGTO also has a Hong Kong branch (Map p70 ; while at a public payphone they cost MOP$1 %2857 2287; 11th Fl, Yue Thai Commercial Bldg, 128 Con- for five minutes. Most hotels will charge naught Rd Central, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong; h9am-1pm you at least MOP$3. All payphones permit © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally International Direct Dialling (IDD) using a & 2.15-5.30pm). phonecard available from CTM for between restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes MOP$50, MOP$100 and MOP$200. Rates are VISAS only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to cheaper from 9pm to 8am during the week Most travellers, including citizens of the EU, everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying and all day Saturday and Sunday. Australia, New Zealand, the USA, Canada and the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’ The international access code for every South Africa, can enter Macau with just their % country, except Hong Kong, is 00. If you passports for between 30 and 90 days. % want to phone Hong Kong, dial 01 first, Travellers who do require them can get then the number you want; you do not need visas valid for 30 days on arrival in Macau. to dial Hong Kong’s country code (%852). They cost MOP$100/$50/$200 for adults/chil- To call Macau from abroad – including Hong dren under 12/families. Kong – the country code is %853. You can get a single one-month extension Convenient CTM branches in Macau in- clude the following: from the Macau Immigration Department (Map pp316–17 ; %2872 5488; Ground fl, Travessa da Amizade; CTM branch (Map p320 ; 22 Rua do Doutor Pedro José Lobo; h9am-12.30pm & 2.30-5pm Mon-Fri). h10.30am-7.30pm) South of Avenida da Praia Grande. CTM main office (Map pp316–17 ; 25 Rua Pedro Coutinho; h10.30am-7.30pm) Two blocks northeast of the Lou WEBSITES Lim Ioc Garden. Useful Macau websites: Cityguide (www.cityguide.gov.mo) Good source of practi- Useful Numbers cal information, such as transport routes. The following is a list of some important tel- Macau Cultural Institute (www.icm.gov.mo) Macau’s ephone numbers. For numbers to call in the cultural offerings month by month. case of an emergency, see p350 . Macau Government Information (www.macau.gov.mo) International directory assistance (%101) The No 1 source for nontourism information about Macau. Local directory assistance (%181) Macau Government Tourist Office (www.macautourism .gov.mo) The best source of information for visiting Macau. Macau ferry terminal (%790 7240) Macau Yellow Pages (www.yp.com.mo) Telephone direc- New World First Ferry (%2872 6301) tory – with maps. 352 353