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Amundsen's Polar Conquest

Amundsen's Polar Conquest

N.S. ARUN KUMAR Story

100th ANNIVERSARY OF REACHING THE POLE Cover Amundsen’s Polar Conquest The story of the race to reach the is a tribute to ’s grasp of the prevailing conditions in the icy and his sense of intricate planning. The 2011 celebrates the hundredth anniversary of the conquest of the South Pole.

IS life was as much adventurous and It was 14 when And enthrallingly enough it was true. mysterious as his death. While alive, Amundsen achieved this, putting to great During his entire preparation for the Hhe never let anyone on his plans shame the by defeating their expedition, Amundsen kept saying that he and eventually became the first human imperialistic naval explorer Captain Scott. was going to the . Only on the ever to reach the barren icy continent of The British team reached there on 17 deck of his ship, he disclosed his real . His death was equally only to find that Amundsen destination to his shipmates. But he did mysterious. He just disappeared while flying had preceded them by 33 days. More send a telegraphic message to Scott that a rescue mission over the Barents on humiliating was the death of all the team, he was moving to the South Pole. 18 June 1928. It is believed that his plane including Scott, starving and dying in bad Many, however, believed that nobody crashed and he died. But his body was weather. It was a great shame, rather than reached the South Pole other than Scott never found. a matter of sorrow to the English world who owing to some very bad luck lost his Even a hundred after his which they avenged through demoralizing way home. Only after the collapse of the amazing exploits, Roald Amundsen still and defaming Amundsen. Their point was British Empire did the iron-curtain over remains a symbol of the heroic age of Amundsen won the race by keeping his Amundsen’s achievement fall apart, exploration that can never be plans secret, never revealing his intention revealing him to be an unsung hero. Sadly, forgotten. The UNESCO is celebrating the to reach the South Pole. it came after the death of Amundsen who year 2011 as the 100th anniversary of “the first man on the South Pole”. The Norwegian government has also Amundsen, the first man standing on the South Pole declared 2011 as the “Amundsen Year” as an honour to their great national hero. Amundsen always wanted to be the first man standing at the 900 S , literally the south Pole, and he did it, beating the much celebrated British rival— Falcon Scott. Even in the midst of howling blizzards and thermometers reading fourties below zero, it was a moment of excitement when he held the Norwegian Flag in his frost-bitten hands securing the pride of his nation, in that faraway land.

SCIENCE REPORTER, DECEMBER 2011 8 Cover Story

Stamps in honour of Amundsen

led a painful life troubled by many falsified returned to his dreams once again, this local Netsilik people, about how to use accusations. time with the map of the “Northwest dogs, wearing animal skin to sustain Passage” charting which he disappeared body heat and how to remain healthy Born Voyager during his historic mission in 1849. That was with the minimum amount of available Amundsen was born to a family of how the word “” caught food. And probably, he might have also merchant sea captains and ship owners, Amundsen’s mind, which he traversed in learned that it was important to leave an in Christinia near , on 16 July 1903. official acknowledgement always: he 1872. Even from his childhood he wanted He did it with a small seal-hunting sent a message to the new king of to become an explorer of the high , vessel Gjoa outfitted with a small gasoline Norway, Haakon VII, stating what he had fascinated by the adventures of John engine. The passage between the Atlantic done was “a great achievement for Franklin. While in his teens, he insisted on and Pacific remained historic as Norway”. sleeping with the windows open, even it was unsuccessfully attempted earlier by during winter time, to condition himself for most famous explorers like Christopher Antarctica! Antarctica! the climate at the Poles. No wonder, he Columbus. This was a passage linking Though the of the Northwest would later become the first man to reach to , but no ship had Passage brought great fame to both the North and South Pole, but his succeeded in sailing its entire length for Amundsen, it was the “first mate” to the mother couldn’t imagine him to be a the past 300 years. The place where Gjoa Belgian Expedition to Antarctica which was maritime traveler. spent her two winters has been named specifically scientific in its objectives. His mother wanted Amundsen to be ‘’ which is near King William Antarctica was a prevailing fascination a doctor and he dutifully pursued the study Island today. among the explorers due to its incredible of medicine at a university there. When he Traversing the “Northwest Passage” beauty in view as evident from the was 21, his mother died leaving Amundsen gave Amundsen great confidence in expeditions by . Ross’s on his own. He had no other choice now tackling hardships and gathering exploration team was looking for the South than becoming an explorer. Franklin survival skills. He learned much from the Magnetic Pole for which they sailed eastward along the Amundsen’s team setting up their headquarters southern Antarctic coast. They saw two mountains encased in “eternal ice and snow”, to be named and Mount Terror, after the ships under their command. According to the journal of Dr. Robert McCormick, the expedition’s surgeon, it was on 28 January 1841 that they saw it, soon to be followed by a perpendicular cliff of ice. It was about 36 to 70 meters 9 SCIENCE REPORTER, DECEMBER 2011 Cover Story

Amundsen’s ship in a museum (left); a monument honouring Amundsen (right)

high, flat on the top and made of solid toll on the explorers. The constant darkness the South Pole, made it an exploratory snow. Nothing could be seen beyond that and deep cold plunged in isolation left one with Robert Scott at the wheels. and not an inch could be moved ahead. many in a state of severe psychological Though they could reach only up to So, they retreated, naming it “Ross Ice instability. Only two could manage to the latitude of 820 17’S, 850 km away from Shelf” and placing the British flag there. maintain their high morale—Amundsen the Pole, it reflected the desire of the British But, Ross wrote in his diary: “(this and an officer by the name Frederick beauty).… would soon be made to Cook. This experience helped Amundsen contribute to the wealth of our country.” to harden himself as one among the most This statement and the presence of the successful polar explorers ever born. “Union Jack” at the “farthest end of the Belgica’s voyage marked the world” turned to be the real temptation for beginning of what become known as the many that came later. The Belgian ‘Heroic age of Antarctic exploration’. It Poster Expedition was one among those. It was created many heroes, iconising their announcing led by a young Belgian Navy Lieutenant, personal bravery and stoicism. Among Amundsen’s Andrian de Gerlache who was aboard them, the first that is worth mentioning is lecture on Belgica leaving Belgium in August 1897. , the all time rival of how he Upon reaching the in Roald Amundsen. He was appointed to reached the early 1898, Amundsen and other crew command the “British National Antarctic South Pole members were engaged in collecting Expedition” of 1901-1904 which was a joint specimens from the Antarctica shore for venture of the Royal Society and Royal about two months. Geographic Society. Initially, the expedition But, inevitably in March, winter crept was considered as a purely scientific one in, freezing the waters. Belgica was to with a scientist in overall command but the remain stuck for 347 days taking a terrible fascination for the “unknown treasures” of

A Norwegian Airlines aircraft with Amundsen’s image on the tail

SCIENCE REPORTER, DECEMBER 2011 10 Cover Story The Legacy of Amundsen A number of places have been named after Amundsen, as an honour of his life as the most successful Polar explorer. The sea off the coast of Antarctica has been named ‘’. Similarly, there are ‘Amundsen ’, ‘Amundsen Bay’, and ‘Mount Amundsen’, all in Antarctica. ‘’ is in the Arctic . There is a memorial of Amundsen on the also – a crater on the Moon’s South Pole!

Empire to be there in the Polar plateau. The Secret Plan It proved to be the best in fighting the Evidently, it had a political significance What Shackleton and Peary did was a harshest attributes of the polar climate. too. With the ‘Union Jack’ already put severe blow to Amundsen’s intentions. He Though the ship was under Nansen’s there by Ross, the British dreamed of wanted to be the first at either of the command, it was the property of the Antarctica becoming another of their Poles, but both the plans now seemed Norwegian government. And, if the colonies. What remained was useless. Since Peary had already done it, government would fund Amundsen’s “capturing” the remaining part too, there was no scope of returning to the expedition, the ship would remain with him. though they hadn’t any idea about its North Pole, but he found something still Nansen was a very influential person in the actual vastness. And for the same reason, left to be done at the South Pole. Norwegian parliament and could easily other colonial forces also began Moreover, he heard that Scott was sanction the funding. targeting the hidden land. preparing for a South Pole conquering But, the expedition would have to be Between 1901 and 1910, there were expedition. Amundsen saw no reason to a northward one, as conquering the North seven missions to Antarctic – Germanic, concede the South Pole to him, but he Pole was his unfulfilled dream. As per the Swedish, Scottish, French and even didn’t reveal his plan. prevailing political climate, the Japanese. Among them was the Nirmod Upon being asked about his future Norwegian government also was not Expedition carried out by Ernest plan publicly, he always spoke about the interested in offending the British Shackleton. On 9 , Shackleton prospects of going to the North Pole. In his monopoly of the South Pole. Amundsen reached upto 100 nautical miles nearer mind, however, he was sure that though was well aware of these facts. Nansen 0 to the South Pole, to the latitude of 88 23’ Shackleton had done something in the submitted Amundsen’s project before the S. And on 16 January 1980, Professor South, “a little corner remained” there for Norwegian Geographical Society. No reached the South him. wonder, the fund was granted, 0 0 Magnetic Pole (mean position 72 25’S 155 With his understanding of the climate accompanied by Fram as a personal gift 16’E). of the Antarctic, he prepared everything from Nansen. In , another news in advance, catering to minute details. He With the ship and money in hand, flashed throughout the world – Robert was fortunate to get an expert to guide – Amundsen began his preparations for the Peary claimed to have reached the North , who had good command journey. His first attempt was to get about Pole. And to the surprise of many, he was over the technique. hundred fully trained North an American! Nansen had made an attempt to reach sledge dogs. He was keen on selecting the North Pole, but failed due to the the strongest available, the best money general drifting pattern could buy. of the polar ice. He had His Belgian expedition had made him also made an attempt, realize that they were the most reliable though unsuccessful, to mode of transport in the Polar environment. reach the South Pole by The of and the walking. So, the lessons indigenous people of Arctic Asia had been he could impart were using them to haul sledges for many priceless, Amundsen felt. hundred years. One pound of food could The main attraction keep a dog pulling a sledge of about 100 was the ship used by pounds for up to 10 hours, with few rest Nansen in his Arctic stops. The ‘huskies’ as they were commonly exploration called Fram. called were loyal to their master, but were 11 SCIENCE REPORTER, DECEMBER 2011 Cover Story

Cruise liner on way to Antarctica (left); country flags fluttering in Antarctica (left below); Amundsen’s memoirs of his exploits in the South Pole (above)

Norway on 9th August, eight weeks after Scott’s expedition departed . On board Amundsen’s ship were 97 dogs, whereas Scott’s Terra Nova carried 65 men, 19 Siberian Ponies and three motorized-sledges. With Amundsen, there were only 19 men including the dog-team drivers. A month later, on September 6, Amundsen’s ship Fram reached Maderia. Water and food were taken on board and the crew enjoyed some free time ashore for three days. On the evening of the 9th, Amundsen called an urgent meeting on savage enough to have vicious fights wines and alcohol for festive and social the main deck. When they came they saw among themselves. So, if not properly occasions. Remembering the monotonous Amundsen standing next to the map of handled, the whole team of dogs could winter nights, he also turned a cabin in Fram Antarctica pinned to the mainmast. deteriorate into chaos of tangled into a library of around 3,000 books. There Amundsen raised his voice and said: harnesses and snarling dogs. was also a gramophone, a large number “Gentlemen, my intention is to sail Amundsen was very cautious in of musical records and instruments. And southwards, land a party on Antarctica and recruiting dog-trainers in which Nansen also on the upper deck there was one large try to reach the South Pole. Anybody who lent a helping hand. Nansen was also cabin, fully air-conditioned – not for himself wants to leave may depart now, I will be helpful in arranging a “lightning course” in but for the sledge-dogs! Amundsen booking their traveling tickets home”. surgery and dentistry for the expedition wanted to keep them as comfortable and Most of the crew stood there with their doctor – Frederick Gjertsen. Amundsen healthy as possible with regular mouth agape, but none left. Then was also aware of the dangers of in supplements of seal meat because he Amundsen asked his brother Leon to write high-sea voyages, though the true cause knew that without those ‘huskies’ he would a telegraphic message to Scott, which of the disease was not known at that time. not be reaching the South Pole! read like this: “BEG TO INFORM YOU FRAM From his Belgica experience, he could PROCEEDING ANTARCTIC – AMUNDSEN”. But understand that eating fresh meat could The Journey while Leon was about to go ashore, counter the disease. Amundsen’s plan was to leave Oslo in Amundsen asked him not to send it until Amundsen also found the clothing August 1910 sailing to Maderia in Atlantic the beginning of October. and footwear to be as important. He and from there directly to the Rose Sea in When Scott arrived in , on acquired 200 heavy-duty blankets from the Antarctica. He thought of making his base the evening of October 12, he saw to which skins of camp nearer the Ross that could Amundsen’s telegram waiting for him. Seals, Reindeer and Wolf were tailored into, be reached through the , Although there is no record of Scott’s actual while keeping in line with the the southernmost point to which a ship reaction, it created anger and scorn when contemporary fashion. He also carried could penetrate. Amundsen’s team left the news reached the British. “Amundsen’s SCIENCE REPORTER, DECEMBER 2011 12 Cover Story Team that crossed the Amundsen publicly North Pole announced his success on 7 , when he arrived at , . “Everything went like a dance”. Amundsen with the crew that went on the Fram

expedition’s winter headquarters ashore, luxury was two stoves that heated the which was about 2 nautical miles away interior of the hut. Amundsen called it the from the ship’s anchoring point on the Bay ‘’ or “home of the Farm.” is a very dirty trick,” wrote Sir Clements of Whales. It was 60 miles closer to the One morning, while at work, they were Markham, an influential member of the Pole than McMurdo Sound where Scott surprised to see a ship moving across the Royal Geographic Society who was made his base later. Furthermore, the ice Bay of Whales. On approaching, they reported to have said: “If I were Scott, I was stable and weather better at the Bay found it to be Scott’s Terra Nova. Scott was not there on the ship, but the six men in the would not let Amundsen land.” Norway, of Whales both making an enormous ship were in search of Amundsen’s team. however, received the news of Amundsen’s difference in travel time, for which Scott’s That Amundsen had made a base at the altered plan with cheers and unrestrained team would have to pay a big price later. Bay of Whales came as a shock to them, enthusiasm. Even Nansen was not By February, Amundsen and his men because they too knew about its proximity annoyed by the altered plan of Amundsen built a 26-by-13-foot hut having to the Pole. and called it a wonderful one. Newspapers foundations dug deep in to the ice, with Though Scott did not visit ‘Framheim’, gave titles like “An Exciting Fight for the the door facing to the west, as the winds Amundsen paid a visit to Scott’s camp, South Pole”. came from the East. The hut was well noticing a great flaw among its elaborate It took four months for Fram to reach insulated, with a bunk and seat for each. facilities – they had no wireless radio! That the , on 14 . A large supply of food and meat was meant, Scott had no scope of alerting the Amundsen selected a site for the brought to the base. But, the maximum world about his achievement even if they Fram—Amundsen’s Ship were to be the first to reach the Pole. But, Fram was originally the ship used by Fridtjof Nansen in the true spirit of a race, Amundsen during his North Pole expedition during 1893–96. offered a site for Scott’s team near their Nansen made it specifically for his Arctic expedition base at Whales Bay. Scott might have been with strict specifications to withstand prolonged thinking of his motorized-sledges that could exposure to the “killing” environment of the Polar waters. ensure greater speed and so he refused. Fram was designed and built by Norway’s leading ship builder, , in 1893. The ship’s hull The Race Begins was sheathed in South American Green Heart, the On April 21, the sun sank over Framheim hardest timber available with crossbeams and braces and the long “winter night” began that was fitted all over. The hull had a peculiar rounded shape, which according to to last for the next four months. There was Nansen, helped the ship “to slip like an eel out of the embraces of ice”. much to be done before it would rise again The wide beam of 36 feet when compared to the overall length of 128 on 24 August. Inside their small hut, feet, gave it a stubby appearance. This shape and the extra-sheathing over Amundsen’s men refined their equipment. the hull is now treated as an architectural mistake. It would have affected They tried reducing the weight of the the ship’s performance in open sea, making its movement rather sluggish sledges, making the clothes ice-proof and with a tendency to roll uncomfortably. so on. Amundsen was thinking of a new After returning from Nansen’s , Fram was under the route to beat the enhanced speed of command of for about four years, exploring the uncharted Scott’s motorized sledges. He also wanted territories of Northern Canadian Islands. When Amundsen first found it, an imminent departure, but the Fram was laying idle in Christinia. Nansen still had the “first call” over it temperatures were unbearable, dropping and so Amundsen had to wait for his consent. 0 At last, by September 1907, Amundsen could attain it. Though Amundsen down to -58 C. was in charge of the South Pole Expedition, the Captain of the ship was By 8 September, there was a slight Lieutenant , because Fram was assigned only for leaving improvement and Amundsen felt he could Amundsen’s party to the Bay of Whales and then returning to pick them delay no longer though the temperatures back by the following year. Meanwhile, it would carry out oceanographic still remained nearer to -270 C. Leaving one work in Atlantic. Fram is now installed in the ‘’ on the peninsula to guard the base, the eight-men team of Bygdoy in Olso. Visitors can go inside the ship, where its original headed towards the Pole. There were 86 whereabouts are preserved. dogs and plenty of food. They covered 31 miles over the next three days, Amundsen 13 SCIENCE REPORTER, DECEMBER 2011 Cover Story Scott—The Rival within the tent. In his own biography, Amundsen referred to that site as the Robert Falcon Scott, the true rival of “Butcher’s Shop”. Amundsen, was a Officer. Then they began the climb through Scott was born on 6 June 1868 in a the glacier (which was later found to be family of naval and military traditions. the Glacier). They could climb Scott’s naval career began as a cadet at about 1,700 meters a day to reach the the age of 13 entering training at HMS top on 21 November. They were now at Britannia in 1881. While in 850 36’S. he had his first encounter with , then secretary of the Royal The Winners Point Geographical Society who was the main On 8 December, the Polar party passed motivating force behind the Discovery Shackleton’s record of the “ Expedition to Antarctica led by Scott Point”. They put the Norwegian flag on the during 1901–1904. It was this expedition top of the leading sledge. Hilmer Hanssen that made Scott a popular hero. And it was driving the lead sledge and he asked also led Scott to be bitten by the “Pole Amundsen to walk in front. He told Mania” tempting an expedition to the Amundsen that, “dogs run better with South Pole. someone in front of them”. Thus they But, he didn’t know that he was in ensured that Amundsen would be the first a race, until he received Amundsen’s man to cross the South Pole! telegram revealing his plan to conquer the South Pole, in October1910. At 3:00 pm, on Friday, , Scott’s party of five reached the pole on 17 January 1912 only to know that there was a loud cry of “Halt!” from one he had been defeated by Amundsen. Scott is presumed to have died on 29 of the fellow travelers. The sledge-meter March 1912, on his journey back from the South Pole. showed the latitude to be 900S! Yes, the South Pole! They had achieved their calling it a “good start”. But the morning of The Pole exploring party led by goal! th 11 was stuck in frigid temperatures once Amundsen was accompanied by Olav The five men together grasped the again. Olavson Bjaaland, Hilmer Hanssen, Sverre Norwegian flag and planted it firmly there. By the evening, a decision was made H. Hassel and . After Amundsen wanted to affirm his to race back to Framheim, and unload everyone had taken enough rest and achievement. The entire locality of the the sledges at a depot on the way. The recovered from the frostbites, 19 October Geographic South Pole was repeatedly return journey was worse than expected. would be the date to start again. Each of traversed with careful observations and Two members of the team had their heels the five members was in charge of a calculations. Within the period of their frostbitten. Even the dogs were suffering sledge pulled by a team of thirteen dogs. three-day stay there, they also made a from cold and two of them froze to death. Their path across the Ross Ice Shelf proved small tent and gave it the name the After returning to Framheim, the next easy and on 11 November, the Queen ‘’, meaning “Home on the Pole”. morning, Amundsen made a slight Mountains came into view. Inside it they left two letters, one for change in his plan. He said that only five The weather was good and the Scott and the other for King Haakon VII. In men would be going to the Pole, while a temperature never dropped below -340 the letter to Scott, he was asked to deliver second party would explore the King C. The most dangerous were the other letter to the Norwegian King—in Edward VII Land. that seemed bottomless hidden by case anything happen to Amundsen’s innocent-looking drifts of snow. Amundsen team. On 18 December they began their was lucky to strike the Trans– return journey and reached Framheim on Antarctic Mountain range at its 25 January 1912. Amundsen’s team narrowest point. He spotted a Amundsen publicly announced his glacier that led to the central success on 7 March 1912, when he arrived plateau. It was short, but very at Hobart, Australia. “Everything went like a steep, demanding a brief pause. dance”, this was what he said while The journey ahead needed referring to his race to the South Pole. But only a few sledges. So, they he was one who would be content to rest decided to kill some dogs and on his laurels. Later in life also he carried fed their flesh to the others. out many challenges including a daring Though they did that with expedition to the North Pole. He did it by extreme regret and sadness, flying an air-ship ‘’ in 1926. there was no other way. Fresh meat was required to prevent the symptoms of Scurvy. It was Mr N.S. Arun Kumar is Editorial Assistant, Kerala Amundsen who gave the orders State Institute for Children’s Literature, Sanskrit to kill the dogs, but when the first College Campus, Palayam, Thiruvananthapuram, shots were fired he remained Kerala-695034 SCIENCE REPORTER, DECEMBER 2011 14

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