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EASTERN AIRWAYS IN-FLIGHT

36 | Summer 2011

IN SEARCH OF THE RED SQUIRREL getting back to nature at Kielder Water

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE: OFFSHORE EUROPE 2011 – SPECIAL PREVIEW SUPPLEMENT NORWEGIAN SUMMER NIGHTS EATING BY THE SEASIDE

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SPAA Best Scottish Business Travel Agent 2010/11 WELCOME Dijon. have been developing within France from our base at service uniting our UK network and the new routes we course, south east England as a whole. This is the first our new service linking Dijon with Southampton and, of sector – we say Bienvenue to our French customers using However, the magazine is about far more than the offshore and Norwegian industry to the oil-rich state of Azerbaijan. are working with Azerbaijan Airlines to connect the UK East via Emirates’ Dubai services at Newcastle. Now we links between Aberdeen and the oil centres of the Middle Through our relationship with Emirates airline, we provide the UK oil and offshore capital of Aberdeen. strategic connections from around the UK and Norway to Airways to the offshore sector, as we provide so many This supplement demonstrates the importance of Eastern shakers in this hugely important industry will get together. conference in Aberdeen, when so many of the movers and forthcoming Offshore Europe 2011 exhibition and This issue includes our special preview supplement for the and pass it round your family and friends! – please feel free to take it away with you Welcome to the Eastern Airways Magazine L’équipe Eastern et notre magazine. comment toujours heureux derecevoir vos qui faitladifférence, etsommes vos besoins,aveccepetitplus vous noustrouverez attentifsà vols réguliers. Nousespérons que britan principales compagniesaériennes AirwaysfigureEastern parmiles magazine. de la part de Eastern Airways Grande-Bretagne et d’Europe Bienvenue à tous nos clients de BIENVENUE ­niques offrant unservicede ­aires sur notr e service

Eastern-teamet og magasinet. kommentarer ombådeservicen Vi setteralltidprispååmottadine ekstra somerprikkenoveri-en. – ogatdentilbyrdegdetlille være medservicenvår fornøyd ruteflyselskap. Vihåperatduvil Storbritannias ledende Airwayseretav Eastern Europa velkommen. våre kunderiStorbritanniaog Airwaysmagasinetønsker Eastern VELKOMMEN The Eastern TeamThe Eastern Bon voyage and see you again soon! on board punctual, reliable flights. customers on flexible tickets, and the high quality service security at many airports, business lounge access for selecting your flight, and continuing through fast-track to quality service and attention to detail, starting with recalling something of the “golden age of flying”. We aspire values of punctuality, reliability and convenience, while We hope the Eastern Airways Magazine reflects our core summer sun, and much more to enjoy besides. words, a reflection on life under Norway’s enduring de Boinod’s musings about the meaning of odd English movie. There’s a sample of celebrated author Adam Jacot Hopkins, starring as Odin in the highly acclaimed Thor Our celebrity interview this time is with Welsh son, Anthony Sgioba Eastern is muarn-iris,achluinntinn. beachdan munt-seirbheis againn, tha sinnan-còmhnaidhtoilichteur agus beaganeadar-dhealaichte – seirbheis, andàchuid,cùramach dòchas gummeassibhar clàraichte naRA.Thasinnan prìomh làn-sheirbheiseanadhair Airwaysammeasg Tha Eastern Eòrp. bho Bhreatainn agusanRoinn air arluchd-cleachdaidhgulèir Airwaysa’curfàilte Tha Eastern FÀILTE Tîm Eastern cylchgrawn. am eingwasanaeth acamein yn falchogaeleich sylwadau yn wahanol–rydynnibobamser yn ungofalusacychydigbach gwelwch chifodeingwasanaeth o wasanaethau.Gobeithioy DU sy’ncynnigamserlenlawn prif gwmnïauawyrennau yny Airwaysymhlithy Mae Eastern rhan oBrydainFawracEwrop. un o’ncwsmeriaidymmhob magazine, ibob Croeso Airways ganEastern CROESO emirates.com/uk

With flights from Aberdeen to Newcastle on our partner, Eastern Connecting Aberdeen Airways, connecting with daily non-stop flights to Dubai, Emirates offers a seamless and relaxing way to travel to over 100 destinations worldwide. Enjoy gourmet cuisine, fine wines and award-winning to Dubai and beyond. inflight entertainment every time you fly with Emirates. Fly from Aberdeen to Dubai daily via Newcastle. Fly Emirates. Keep discovering.

Air Transport World 2011 Airline of the Year. Emirates flies from Heathrow, London Gatwick, Birmingham, Manchester, Newcastle and Glasgow via Dubai. To book or for more information, visit emirates.com/uk or your travel agent. Enrol at skywards.com to enjoy a world of rewards and privileges with Skywards, Emirates’ frequent fl yer programme. CONTENTS CONTENTS

12 KIELDER WATER 10 EMIRATES AIRBUS 20 SIR ANTHONY HOPKINS

REGULARS FEATURES 06 EASTERN AIRWAYS NEWS 46 ESSENTIAL GUIDE: 12 TAKING THE WATERS Everything that’s happening EATING BY THE SEASIDE Tom Boden gets in touch with the around the Eastern Airways Cafés and restaurants within easy great outdoors around England’s network right now reach of our destinations most remote village

10 ON CLOUD NINE 50 THE LAST WORD 16 FANCY A TINGO? Travel in style with Emirates on the Sometimes life is just not cricket A guide to some unusual phrases Airbus A380 for Harry Pearson and meanings

18 LETTER FROM NORWAY 20 SIR ANTHONY HOPKINS Norwegians chill out under the COMPETITION The multi-talented actor talks Midnight Sun about life as comic-book hero and 30 Win a luxury weekend for two at as conductor with the City of 23 NEIL’S GADGETS Ackergill Tower in Caithness Birmingham Symphony Orchestra Scanners, projectors and apps for life on the move 26 ABERDEEN GUIDE DESTINATION Where to shop, stay, and be OFFSHORE EUROPE 24 EXPLORATION EXPRESS: A SUPPLEMENT PRODUCED FOR EASTERN AIRWAYS IN ASSOCIATION WITH SPE OFFSHORE6th–8th September EUROPE 2011| Aberdeen 2011 | UK entertained ABERDEEN POLAR The granite city offers golden PIONEER 28 ABERDEEN FOOD STRIKING OIL opportunities for business and IN THE Meet Paula McEwen – a chef with leisure BARENTS the right attitude

ALSO INSIDE: CONFERENCE AND EXHIBITION PREVIEW TAX ING PROBLEMS 35 BITTER EXPERIENCE ABERDEEN POWERS AHEAD 32 TOP HOLE Alastair Gilmour talks his favourite Celebrities hit it off at the UK’s language – beer! newest top golf course ccessible to 36 BARE ESSENTIALS 33 MOTORING Fly easternairways.com Eastern Airways’ network map, i One of the UK’s most iconic cars passenger information and SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT is saved from the scrapheap of destination guides history Offshore Europe 2011

Eastern Airways in-flight magazine is published © June 2011. All rights reserved. No part of this Eastern Airways, Schiphol House, Humberside for Eastern Airways by Gravity Magazines, Abbey magazine may be reproduced by any means, without International Airport, Kirmington, North Lincolnshire Anthony Hopkins image TM & ©2010 Marvel ©2010 MVLFFLLC. All Rights Reserved. Rights All MVLFFLLC. ©2010 Marvel ©2010 & TM image Hopkins Anthony Business Centre, Abbey Road, Pity Me, Durham, prior written permission of the copyright owners. DN39 6YH DH1 5JZ Although every effort has been made to ensure the Communications Manager: Darren Roberts

Above: www.gravity-consulting.com accuracy of the information in this magazine, neither e-mail: [email protected] the publisher, nor Eastern Airways can accept any Telephone: + 44 (0)8703 669669 Telephone: +44 (0)191 383 2838 liability for errors or omissions. Reservations: + 44 (0)8703 669100 Publisher: Stan Abbott www.easternairways.com Design: Barbara Allen ISSN: 2044-7124 For magazine comments: Advertising: Liz Reekie Previously known as e-magazine, ISSN 1477-3031. [email protected] Telephone: +44 (0) 7563 796103 e-mail: [email protected] Print: Acorn Web Offset Ltd, Normanton, West Yorkshire Front cover by Blue RiverFrontcover by / 5 6

© ATOUT FRANCE/Michel Angot NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS DESTINATIONS EASTERN AIRWAYS NEWS EASTERN YOUR NEW SUMMER ROUTE TO FRANCE FROM SOUTHAMPTON… Eastern Airways has developed a network of routes from course, famous for its mustard. vineyards, including the celebrated Beaujolais. Dijon is, of pharmaceuticals. The region has some of the country’s best manufacturing, automobile, electronics, machinery and Bourgogne region (Burgundy) and industry includes The city of Dijon is the capital of the Cote d’Or and Southampton at 1310. 1630. Flights leave Dijon at 1210pm and land in Sunday services leave Southampton at 1340, arriving at and arrive in Southampton at 1320 local time. landing in Dijon at 1640. Return ervices leave Dijon at 1230 Flights on Fridays take off from Southampton at 1350, arrive in Southampton at 1220. arriving in Dijon at 1540. Services leave Dijon at 1130 and On Mondays, flights will depart Southampton at 1250, www.easternairways.com French site is at www.easternairways.fr and UK site at Airways UK and French websites or at travel agencies. The including taxes, and can be booked on both the Eastern Jetstream 41 aircraft. Fares start from £75 one way, operates on Mondays, Fridays and Sundays using 29-seater The three times a week service began early in June and France. Southampton to Dijon, in the Burgundy region of eastern Eastern Airways has launched a new summer service from

gateway to France, with 15 French destinations.” cities, and further grows the airport’s status as the UK’s top time regular air links have been established between the two Southampton Airport said: “This new service will be the first Jan Halliday, Director of Marketing and Communications for and leisure travellers visiting the Burgundy region.” France and our service will save valuable time for business “Southampton Airport is a popular gateway for heading to Kay Ryan, Eastern Airways’ Commercial Director, said: service is the first to link the airline’s UK and French networks. times weekly service to Nantes, in May. The Southampton Bordeaux 11 times weekly and most recently added a six Dijon since September 2010 and already serves Toulouse and (right) with some of the flight crew Kay Ryan and Ben Leon from Eastern Airways France Pictured with a Crémant replica cake is Eastern Airways’ Place de la Libération in Dijon city centre © Elnur Amikishiyev / istock NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS DESTINATIONS …AND YOUR NEW ROUTE TO EURASIA FROM ABERDEEN capital for Europe, Asia and Africa. service reasserts Aberdeen’s claim to be the energy country blessed with oil and gas deposits. The new exploration and development, with two thirds of the one of the world’s most important centres for oil the Caucasus region of Eurasia and is regarded as The Republic of Azerbaijan is the largest country in for this global industry.” Azerbaijan, this new route will be an important service capital and as oil is a leading commodity in Azerbaijan Airlines, said: “Aberdeen is Europe’s oil Jamil Manizade, Deputy Director Executive of domestic flights throughout the UK. onward connections from Aberdeen to Norway and agreement with Eastern Airways which is providing The airline has entered a codeshare and ticketing seats. A319 aircraft with 24 Business class and 90 Economy Aberdeen and the Azerbaijani capital, using an Airbus two flights a week on Tuesdays and Sundays between The Azerbaijani national flag carrier is now offering Aberdeen. with the airline’s launch of services from Baku to overseas partners, with a new agreement to coincide Eastern Airways has added Azerbaijan Airlines to its the mountain steppe. horse, a good natured racing and riding horse from The country’s national animal is the ancient Karabakh alphabet since 1939. previously been written in the Cyrillic, or Russian and, since 1991, written in the Latin alphabet, having People speak Azeri, a language related to Turkish that nightlife. clamping down recently on some of the excesses of nightlife. The Government, however, has been identified as one of the world’s top ten cities for population live in Baku, which Lonely Planet has its rich cultural heritage. Two million of the nine million and it boasts some dramatic scenery to complement More than half of the country’s area is mountainous in 1991. The modern Republic of Azerbaijan was created 1918, before its incorporation into the Soviet Union. Muslim world. That was for a brief two years from been the first ethnic and secular country in the Soviet Union. Indeed, Azerbaijan can claim to have Independent States, formed after the break-up of the was the founder member of the Commonwealth of Muslim population. It is, however, a secular state and Azerbaijan is a nation with a majority Turkic and Shia Azerbaijan and the Baku: capital and Caucasus region largest port of

n ’s first five-star boutique , the 84-bedroom Layla, will be managed and operated by the Bespoke Hotels Group when it open this summer. The Layla hotel occupies three architecturally stunning buildings in Sir Thomas Street, ingeniously connected both internally and externally. This blend of original architecture and the most- up-to-date touches sees Victorian, Art Deco and contemporary features embrace the buildings’ historic aspects, SURVIVING IN BUSINESS and the latest in technology. Among other features is the Layla Cigar Eleven students from Caistor Grammar School, Lincolnshire, are cutting their Terrace, where guests can enjoy hand teeth in the world of business. They have designed an innovative Bare NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS DESTINATIONS NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS rolled Havanas and other Cuban cigars Necessities camping survival kit, recently showcased at the Outdoor Leisure from the walk-in humidor. Show at the NEC, Birmingham. www.bespokehotels.com The young entrepreneurs, aged 16 and 17, have had expressions of interest from specialist camping stores and are currently retailing their all-in-one survival kit through their website. “These survival kits serve a wide range of people, from outdoor enthusiasts to one-night campers and festival-goers, as well as holidaymakers, and are regarded a must for Duke of Edinburgh participants,” says the team, which formed the company in September 2010 as part of the Young Enterprise scheme, a national initiative encouraging young people into the world of business The kit comes in a small, robust, yet lightweight tin and includes the “bare necessities” for enjoying the outdoors, which were chosen after detailed research. It enables all your most important belongings to be kept in one place, n rather than mingling with the grass and mud at the bottom of your rucksack. Aberdeen Harbour handled record www.barenecessitiessurvival.co.uk energy-related traffic to and from West Africa during 2010, annual results show. With a rise of some ten per cent in such DISCOVER MORE traffic, overall results show that vessels The 2011 NewcastleGateshead totalling more than 24.23 million gross Discover Pass is now bigger and better tonnes used the port in 2010, up 0.9 per than ever with hundreds of ways to cent on 2009. Cargo throughput also save money this holiday season. The increased, rising to 4.66 million tonnes Discover Pass enables visitors to get from 4.54 million tonnes, while the port up to 25 per cent off on some deals, as achieved its highest annual turnover, well as discounts at a number of top increasing from £22.17 million to £22.64 SILVER SERVICE bars, restaurants and hotels. million. The port has undertaken major www.discoverpass.co.uk investment at Torry Quay and Battlesteads , hotel and restaurant, Commercial Quay. at Wark, near Hexham in Northumber- Below, Mo, the Cotton Topped Tamarin, Colin Parker, Chief Executive, said: “The land, picked up a Silver award in the checks out the pass at Blue Reef first quarter of 2011 also proved to be a Sustainable Tourism category of the Aquarium, Tynemouth – one of the good start with cargo and vessel 2011 EnjoyEngland Awards for attractions offering more than 120 tonnage up around five per cent on the Excellence, run by VisitEngland. deals for visitors. same period last year and passenger Following its Gold regional award in numbers continuing to climb.” October 2010, Battlesteads competed against eight others in the Sustainable Tourism category. Judges commended Battlesteads owners Richard and Dee Slade for Battlesteads’ “strong sustain- able pedigree”. “Environmental aware- ness is embedded in the culture.” [email protected]

n The winner of our Montagu Arms competition in issue 35 was David Fettes, Colin Parker: from Aberdeen. The prize is a two-night break at the Montagu Arms, at Beaulieu, “Continuing to climb” 8 in the New Forest. NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS DESTINATIONS often be a much quicker door-to-door experience with less stress.” around 50 destinations and excellent road and rail links, heading south can airport as a viable alternative to London where they might usually head. With Southampton Airport and so this campaign aims to raise their awareness of our Airport, said: “There are around 7.6 million people living within 90 minutes of Jan Halliday, Director of Marketing and Communications for Southampton London airports. journey time, and a more friendly and convenient service than the larger available across the south, Southampton Airport often offers a shorter total times, convenient flights to about 50 destinations, and speedy train links With a 60-second walk from the train station to the terminal, short check-in and friendly journeys from Southampton Airport are. a series of geographically tailored case studies to highlight just how easy, fast The “It’s my airport…” campaign will run throughout the summer season, using Fleet, Guildford, Reading, Woking, and the surrounding areas. corridor to London. Key areas include Basingstoke, Camberley, Farnborough, The campaign is focusing on areas in north Hampshire and along the M3 leisure passengers who currently head to other London airports. Southampton Airport has launched a campaign to attract new business and SOUTHAMPTON CAMPAIGN www.flightontime.info and showed arrival timings data were analysed by Civil Aviation Authority departure and Airways, Ryanair, easyJet and flybe. KLM, Brussels Airlines, British performer, ahead of airlines including years, was again the best on-time from Newcastle for more than eight The airline, which has been operating fourth time in five years. punctual scheduled airline for the Newcastle International Airport’s most Eastern Airways has been named EASTERN AIRWAYSEASTERN RIGHT ON –TIME YET AGAIN! in Newcastle. our crews, engineers and staff to the commitment and dedication of tremendous achievement and is down Commercial Director, said: “This is a Kay Ryan, Eastern Airways’ eight minutes. airline at Newcastle averaged just any delays experienced with the from January to December 2010, time. Also, during the same period within 15 minutes of the scheduled Newcastle services departed that 89 per cent of Eastern Airways’

www.southamptonairport.com/priority. Access can be pre-booked by visiting person, and can hold up to 30 people. aged over 18, at a cost of £17.50 per available to all departing passengers upstairs in the Departure Lounge, is before their flight. The facility, located dedicated quiet and relaxed space leisure passengers to enjoy a Priority Lounge, for business and new executive lounge, the Breeze Southampton Airport has opened a IT’S A BREEZE staff in Newcastle. Stavanger in Norway, and employs 50 Aberdeen, Birmingham, and scheduled services from Newcastle to season. The airline also operates weekday service for the summer Newcastle-Bergen non-stop daily Eastern Airways has reintroduced its number one position.” do everything we can to maintain our a reliable on-time service, and we will “Our customers have come to expect

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NEWS FEATURE: EASTERN AIRWAYS PARTNER AIRLINE, EMIRATES flat beds, while those in Economy Class Business Class seats also convert to fully board Shower Spas. – and there are two fully equipped on with seats that convert to fully flat beds passengers relax in 14 Private Suites, On the upper deck, First Class from its external cameras. showing the aircraft’s position and views two sofas, and a 42-inch LCD screen and cold canapés and snacks, there are liqueurs and spirits and a selection of hot where, in addition to premium branded enjoyable. There is even a bar area, make journeys more comfortable and aircraft brings a range of innovations to iconic A380, and the world’s biggest Emirates is the largest customer of the Hyderabad. Delhi, Cochin, Mumbai, Dhaka and Lanka, Tokyo, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Seychelles, Maldives, Mauritius, Sri church, Durban, Cape Town, the Brisbane, Melbourne and Perth, Christ Other popular routes from the UK include 1) Johannesburg. Hong Kong, Bangkok, and (from October Sydney, Auckland, Seoul, Shanghai, on onward routes from Dubai, including have the chance to fly on the Airbus A380 and passengers connecting at Dubai than 100 destinations on six continents – Emirates’ global network connects more But what about the world beyond Dubai? Dubai, via Newcastle. journey time between Aberdeen and Emirates offers the fastest end-to-end Eastern Airways’ partnership with Emirates offers passengers a taste of the high life on the Airbus A380 ALL THE WAY THE ALL CLASS FIRST - shell with built-in amenities, such as a Business Class seats are housed in a adjustment. speed and intensity, and lumbar support mode massage system with adjustable A380 First Class cabins boast a multi- With comfort and well being in mind, the effects of jet lag. the destination, and to help combat the throughout a flight to reflect the time at complete with a starlit sky, which adjusts advanced mood lighting system, Each cabin features a customised, Aeromobile technology. use their own mobile phones onboard via On selected flights passengers can even and email, and live BBC news headlines. interactive games, satellite phone, SMS films. That’s not to mention more than 40 films and large number of world cinema releases, 25 movie classics, 25 children’s entertainment, including 50 new movie 1,200 channels of on-demand Emirates total fleet. which is now available on about half the widescreen inflight entertainment system, communications, entertainment) digital award-winning Passengers in all classes enjoy Emirates’ to 33 inches. can stretch out in seats with a pitch of up ice (information, ice features up to travel agent. www.emirates.com/uk or through a beyond are now available online at Fares from Aberdeen to Dubai and points modation, excursions, and shopping. and upgrades on Emirates, hotel accom wide range of rewards, including flights Skywards Miles can be redeemed for an example. flights, through hotel stays, or car hire, for in the air and on the ground, by taking period. tier miles earned within a 12 to 13-month status is determined by the number of benefits and privileges. Membership tier Gold – each offering a greater degree of membership tiers – Blue, Silver and Skywards currently offers three free and a wide choice of rewards. passenger loyalty with privileges, benefits hailed as the best in its class, rewarding flyer programme from Emirates, is widely Skywards, the award-winning frequent sourced from this region. destination and ingredients are locally chosen in conjunction with the final valuable input to the menus. Dishes are numbering more than 100 – provides range of cabin crew nationalities – now ethnic preferences. The airline’s wide care is taken in catering to passengers’ course, to the on-board service and great Emirates’ customer care extends, of 10.6-inch screen. seats, all 18 inches wide and each with a aircraft’s main deck and contains 427 USB port. Economy Class is on the mini-bar, 17-inch LCD screen and dual Skyward Miles can be earned both

- SPONSORED EDITORIAL / NEWS FROM EASTERN AIRWAYS DESTINATIONS the stories of the people who once lived in the area. phone app, to create a “museum without walls” that tells community to develop new resources, including a smart Timespan, run by the society, is working with the local the infamous Clearances in the Strath of Kildonan in 2013. develop a multimedia heritage trail to mark 200 years since Helmsdale Heritage Society can now progress plans to helping to fund 11 new projects. In total almost £220,000 is being invested in the sector, applicants for funding from Museums Galleries Scotland. n Helmsdale Heritage Society is among successful representation in different countries, therefore making Internationalisation means having on-the-ground challenges that the oil and gas industry faces. the world, to help find solutions to the technology access to technology developers and expertise around the opportunity to give its member community the best Pacific, is extending its international reach. It welcomes Aberdeen, Middle East, Houston, and plans for Asia The ITF (Industry Technology Facilitator), with offices in worldwide, commands strong international engagement. oil and gas industry, where operations are located Sometimes, the very nature of the business, such as the start-up to gain exposure and expansion to new ideas. are rapidly developing their overseas networks from cyber-connected world, many innovative organisations maturing in the domestic market scene. However, in this productive firms entered the overseas market, after In the past, economics dictated that only the most step for businesses to prosper. diversify and expand. Internationalisation can be a key are now taking advantage of global opportunities to Challenging economic conditions mean that businesses GOING GLOBAL by

David Liddle worldcoincufflinks.com are links made from the British sixpence. All links cost €39. represents the Salmon of knowledge and wisdom. Pictured on the Irish 10p, which is taken from Irish folklore and oil and gas industry technology facilitator David Liddle is Strategic Technology Director at ITF, the game-changing technologies into the global energy field. launch joint industry projects and ultimately bring investment from its oil and gas member companies to has been successful in securing millions of pounds of By establishing a strong presence in global markets, ITF acquiring business operations. may prove fatal in establishing long-term contacts and differences in language and cultures, which, if ignored, environments, and helps businesses overcome essential for navigating in unfamiliar business circles, which raises mutual awareness. It is also building relationships is a proven process in business Gaining access to networks, establishing dialogue and to be delivered to the world’s energy companies. for gathering the knowledge to enable new technologies networks in important oil-producing regions is essential ITF recognises that establishing and nurturing its new markets. new contacts is a vital step towards succeeding in of the countries, such as the Salmon that represent the history and culture cufflinks. The cufflinks have images turning out-of-circulation coins into based in is specialising in delighted to learn that a company decimalisation coinage will be People nostalgic for the UK’s pre-

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WHERE TO STAY: NORTHUMBERLAND Northumberland… Kielder Water in daughter – at a hideaway near wildlife – and a quieter Tom Boden seeks solitude, Twenty-seven minutes was the maximum. Not a huge amount This area of northern England boasts the clearest night skies of time in itself but on this crowded island of ours, it’s unusual with minimal light pollution. It’s therefore a big draw for not see another human being for nearly half an hour when amateur astronomers keen to get a better view of the cosmos beyond the confines of your house or office. circling endlessly above – more stars to marvel at than Perhaps in parts of Scotland, I suppose, but this was gallons of water in the reservoir – 40 billion, since you ask. England, population 52 million. However, this corner of We were staying in one of the log cabins that sit proudly England is quite unlike any other and has a number of heady above the Leaplish Waterside Park. I would probably term this boasts to attract anyone looking for some peace and quiet in the capital of the Kielder area insofar as it houses the majority the great outdoors. of the visitor attractions and is the ideal place to base yourself Firstly we were in Northumberland, England’s most sparsely if visiting for a few days or more. The Birds of Prey Centre is populated county, and secondly we were near Kielder, the a must. country’s most remote village. As if to obscure us from other Having travelled with our one-year old daughter we mainly homo sapiens even further we were walking through the stayed around this area, for her. After all, throwing pebbles largest human-planted forest in Europe while skirting the into the water was reason enough to visit. We were amid one biggest reservoir in Britain. That’s a whole lot of space and, of England’s biggest and finest adult adventure playgrounds despite its increasing popularity, Kielder Water and Forest but were predominantly restricted to the kiddies’ playground. Park is the perfect place to lose yourself for a few hours. However my yearning to go and explore had to be satisfied In fact the reservoir and its associated attractions, managed and we headed off on one of the numerous walks available, by Northumbrian Water, annually beckon more than a quarter most of which take in at least some of the impressive 27-mile of a million people along the narrow roads that meander north shoreline. There is a circular walk that covers the whole through the Northumberland National Park, and for many distance but we weren’t sure that was viable during the different reasons. Watersports, such as , kayaking, 90-minute window we had as our daughter slept in her and waterskiing are especially popular out on the pushchair. Not even if we’d been competing in the recently lake, as is , but you don’t need to risk getting wet to launched Kielder Marathon with its justifiably bold claim of have a great time at Kielder. Mountain-biking, horse-riding, being Britain’s most beautiful race. orienteering and fell-running are all available and if the sheer thought of those exhausts you, there are more sedate A soundly sleeping child is also a key ingredient when trying pursuits, including wildlife watching throughout the forest and to track down one of the forest’s most secretive residents, the star-gazing at the observatory. red squirrel. Now extinct from the south of England, barring a >> Bird of prey centre, Leaplish

Leaplish Waterside Park Skyspace

couple of island enclaves, Northumberland, Cumbria and parts familiar, and certainly less bold. It approached skittishly, of Durham form the last real bastions for this once widespread wide-eyed and alert, shimmying up a fallen log, causing the mammal and Kielder, with an estimated population of 20,000, is swarm of chaffinches to momentarily scatter before once again the jewel in the crown for the sometimes controversial converging on their free lunch. We watched in awe as this conservation effort. Not far from here they serve grey squirrels, beautiful creature came closer and closer to us. We dared not whose onward advance is responsible for the reds’ demise, on speak for fear of scaring it but exchanged excited glances, restaurant plates. knowing that we’d had a great deal of luck to see so close one of these animals, of which there are such dwindling numbers. A short distance from the relative bustle of Leaplish we found ourselves alone and approaching a small hut. It was obviously a The squirrel was out of sight before we even registered the bird hide so we proceeded with as much stealth as possible, scream from behind us. The quiet solitude that had reigned parked the buggy outside, and crept in to see what we could across this corner of the forest was well and truly pierced by the see. It soon became obvious why chaffinches are now the UK’s sound of an irate toddler waking up in unfamiliar arboreal most common small bird – there were surroundings with no parent in view. Even the chaffinches were hundreds of them feasting on the put off for a few seconds. Squirrel-watching was brief but feeders and other food sources worth it and as we recommenced our stroll generously laid out for their through the forest we knew that it would be benefit and, ultimately, for us some time before we would spot another gawping humans behind the mammal so scarce in these parts. In fact Perspex. it turned out to be 27 minutes, but this one had only two legs and may or may Five minutes of this archaic not have eaten nuts. display of feasting by even more of these admittedly pretty little birds was just Tom and family were guests of about enough. However, then, a flash of deep red, a Northumbrian Water at Kielder Water twitch of russet ears and there he was, not more than and Forest Park, www.visitkielder.com ten feet from our vantage point, Squirrel Nutkin – far

© Eric Isselée / Fotolia.com / Isselée Eric © smaller than its grey cousin, with whom most are

A SOUNDLY SLEEPING CHILD IS A KEY INGREDIENT WHEN TRYING TO

14 TRACK DOWN ONE OF THE FOREST’S MOST SECRETIVE RESIDENTS KEEPING BUSY AT KIELDER Kielder Water and the surrounding area boast a great range of different things to do. There are three visitor centres to help plan your activities, at Tower Knowe and Leaplish, on the lake itself and at Kielder Castle. Great news this summer is that the area’s ospreys are back and you can take the chance to watch them on the nest any weekend to the end of July. There’s a wide range of organised sporting events right through summer, including the new run, bike or hike 100K and 50K Duathlons and Run Challenge; the Montane Kielder 100 mountain bike race; and the 25.3-mile Kielder Challenge Walk. Not to mention the Salomon Kielder Marathon dubbed “Britain’s most beautiful marathon”. The race will be held on Sunday October 9 and its course follows the 27-mile shoreline of Kielder Water. Entries are on a first come first served basis. www.visitkielder.com/site/ kielder-marathon/kielder-marathon. If all this sounds just a bit too energetic, then highly recommended is the walk up to Skyspace, which is in the Forest park and waymarked from Kielder Castle. It was commissioned form the American sculptor, James Turrell. Visitors find themselves in a circular room where the artist manipulates our normal perceptions of light and space, whether during the day or after nightfall. Kielder observatory is another 1km beyond Skyspace and here you can take advantage of the area’s dark night skies. Details at www.kielderobservatory.org. Other attractions include the bird of prey centre at Leaplish. The Osprey ferry calls here and other points round the shore and is a leisurely way to explore the lake. You can find out about all events and activities at www.visitkielder.com.

Kielder Water is less than an hour’s drive from Newcastle Airport. Eastern Airways flies to Newcastle from Aberdeen, Bergen, Birmingham, Cardiff and Stavanger A TASTE OF TINGO

have a face-ticket (British Museum Nottingham goodnight (1950s) the loud Reading Room 1909) to be so well slamming of doors and saying of known to the janitors that one is not Goodnight by a courting couple: this asked to present one’s ticket supposedly reassures the listening parents, and the couple, neither of like Edgeware Road (20c slang) a phrase whom have left, then retire to the sofa describing tight trousers (because

BOOKS: THE MEANING OF TINGO “that’s got no ballroom either”) bunting time (canting term 1699) when the grass is high enough to hide young continuations (1825) trousers (they men and maids continued a Victorian male’s waistcoat in a direction too delicate to mention) vuddle (Hampshire and Wiltshire dialects) to spoil a child by trout pout (UK slang 2002) the effects of injudicious petting collagen injections that produce prominent, comically oversized lips rumbelow (1315) a meaningless resembling those of a dead fish instead combination of syllables serving as a Adam Jacot de Boinod is a of luscious attractive ones song or refrain sung by sailors while rowing a boat (eg Heave Ho or Hey-Ho) man fascinated by to drive turkeys to market (19c) to walk in a drunken, unsteady manner (the 76 … was she worf it? (Bingo numbers: language and its more turkey-driver is forced to follow the birds’ from 7/6d, the old price of a meandering course along the road) marriage licence) unusual turns of phrase. slavermagullion (Scottish dialect) a feague (slang 1811) to put ginger up a foolish and lubberly person horse’s fundament, and formerly, as it is Here he explores English said, a live eel, to make him lively and pigeon’s milk (1777) an imaginary article carry his tail well words and their meanings for which children are sent on a fool’s errand (traditionally on April 1) rabbit’s-kiss (Yorkshire) a penalty in the game of “forfeits” in which a man and that you may or may not bridlegged (Cheshire dialect) the woman have each to crawl on their Cheshire farmer, who holds that the hands and knees and nibble the same have come across… perfect form of female beauty consists piece of straw until their lips meet more in strength than in elegance of limbs, often uses this contemptuous tyromancy (1652) fortune telling by appellation to any female whose limbs watching cheese coagulate happen to be somewhat slenderer than pig months those months in which there he has in his own mind fixed on as a is an R in their name (that is, not May, criterion of symmetry and taste June, July or August) the months in grille-peerer one of a group of clergymen which one may more safely eat pork in the 1940s who used to haunt the butler’s perks opened but unfinished stacks of the London Library to look up bottles of wine the skirts of women browsing above a pig in a python a surge in a statistic shoe-polisher a derisive term for a dog measured over time that doesn’t stray far from a hunter’s feet Jennifer Lopez “J Lo” (Wall Street jargon 2004) the rounding bottom in a stock’s price chart (Bo Derek: the perfect stock) witches’ knickers (Irish slang 2000) shopping bags caught in trees, flapping in the wind a little gentleman in black velvet (early 18c) a mole – a tribute to the mole that raised the hill that caused King William to fall from his horse, Sorrell, in 1702 and die two weeks later; was a Jacobite toast during the reign of Queen Anne (1702-14)

16 mainbody one of the three seasons of the Antarctic year. At McMurdo, it starts around October 1 and goes until the last flight at Station Close, typically late February or early March. At the Pole, it’s from about November 1 to mid-February ostrobogulous (1951) unusual, bizarre, interesting Lubberland (1598) a mythical paradise petrichor (1964) the pleasant smell that accompanies the first rain after a dry spell arms and legs (UK slang 19C) weak beer pozzy-wallah (Tommies’ slang 1914-18) a or tea (ie a drink that has no body) WOMBAT Waste Of Money, Brains man inordinately fond of jam And Time jibber the kibber (1781) a method of calenture (1593) a distemper peculiar to deceiving seamen, by fixing a candle and MALAYA My Ardent Lips Await Your Arrival sailors in hot climates, wherein they imagine lantern round the neck of a horse, one of the sea to be green fields, and will throw whose forefeet is tied up: this at night has themselves into it the appearance of a ’s light. to go to Peckham (early 19C) to sit down bearing towards it, run on shore and, being to eat wrecked, are plundered by the inhabitants (common on Cornish coasts) spaghetti-legs routine (current football lingo) a goalkeeper¹s trick employed to distract a tyrekicker (NZ 1986) a politician who penalty taker discusses and debates but takes no action (from car sales where a person examines a gymnasium (16c from Ancient Greek via car at length but does not buy it) Latin) a school for exercising in the nude griggles (Wiltshire dialect) small worthless Robin Hood when a dart sticks into a apples remaining on the tree after the crop previous thrown one has been gathered in drummer (horse racing lingo) a horse that cochel (Sussex dialect) too much for a throws his forelegs about irregularly wheelbarrow but not enough for a cart giddhom (Irish dialect) a frantic galloping Adam Jacot de Boinod is the author of The movement made by cows when plagued hockerty-cockerty (Scottish dialect 1742) Meaning of Tingo, Toujours Tingo and The with flies with one leg on each shoulder Wonder of Whiffling. tuxedo (from Amerindian) a wolf; then the fidge-fadge (Yorkshire dialect) a motion name of a lake near New York whose between walking and trotting residents in 1886 became so socially important that its name was given to a new hong and midor (Transport Workers’ talk) style of dinner coat “hurry along” and “mind the doors” bubble (Geordie dialect) to weep groundbait (Royal Navy slang) a box of chocolates or something similar given to a lady friend in pursuit of a greater prize cachinnate (1824) to laugh loudly or immoderately reveal party (US current slang) a party held to celebrate successful cosmetic treatment, especially cosmetic surgery or dentistry christened by the baker (late 18c) freckle-faced budgie smugglers (Australian slang) tight-fitting swimming trunks AND apple- catchers (current Herefordshire slang) outsized knickers (as one could use them for harvesting apples) 17 LETTER FROM NORWAYwith Gunn Sissel Jacklin LAND OF MIDNIGHT SUN

Norwegians relish the summer light. Although the Midnight Sun itself is only seen north of the Arctic Circle, it doesn’t really get dark at midsummer anywhere in Norway, even in southern cities, like Stavanger. It’s a very Norwegian love affair…

“At what time will the other sun rise?” A tourist windows and Cellotape on the sides of the had patiently waited his turn at the tourist blinds, so as not to let any light in at night. information in the Arctic city of Tromsø to get While adults can be sensible and decide that an answer to the question. The girl behind the it is time to go to bed, it can be quite a counter did not quite know how to break the challenge to tell a child that it is bedtime. It news to him that there is in fact only one sun. simply makes no sense to put on pyjamas when the sun shines brightly. It does indeed seem very strange that there should be daylight all night. When the weather Wikipedia describes severe medical problems is good, people in the north of Norway can for people who are deprived of their sleep, act impulsively and do all sorts of things due to the Midnight Sun. I have lived north of under the Midnight Sun. They are happy to the Arctic Circle for most of my life, but this is paint their house, throw a barbecue, mow the news to me. The internet encyclopedia also lawn or simply go for a mountain hike at suggests that the midnight sun posseses midnight. special challenges to religious people, such Somehow, it seems that the need for sleep is as Jews, who have religious rites based less when there is so much light outside. And around the 24-hour day/night cycle. Flag in winter you get the opposite effect: when we regulations are definitely challenged, and have to “pay back” the Midnight Sun and Norwegian flags must be taken down “at most daylight disappears for a couple of sunset, or no later than at 2100”. months. People tend to sleep longer – Why does the sun not set in the far north and scientists who have studied the phenomenon the far south? The Earth’s axis is tilted, and assert there is no difference between people close to the poles there is no “night side” in born and bred in the Arctic and others who summer. The closer to the pole, the longer is have moved there. Some are bothered by the the period of midnight sun. In Longyearbyen, lack of light in winter or the excess light in in Svalbard (Spitzbergen), Norway’s summer, while others seem to hardly take northernmost permanent settlement at 78 notice. degrees latitude, the Midnight Sun lasts for When the sun returns to Tromsø on January four months, from April 20. In midsummer, the 21 after having been gone for two months, we sun is 35 degrees above the horizon during celebrate its return by drinking hot chocolate the day and 11 degrees at night. and eating “sun buns”. Earlier, it was The Midnight Sun attracts tourists to customary to let kids take half a day off from Scandinavia from all over the world. It is a school on the day when the sun actually popular theme for photographs, works of art returned (not every 21st is a sunny day), but and souvenirs. Since 1989, the road race, they don’t always do that now, as the younger Midnight Sun Marathon, has been attracting ones have to be picked up at set times. On people from many countries to Tromsø. It is the other hand, however much we enjoy it, the world’s northernmost location for races there is actually no tradition for celebrating under the Association of International the arrival of the Midnight Sun. Marathons and Distance Races. This year it Personally, I find perpetual daylight a takes place on June 25 – hopefully with the challenge, I must admit. I put blinds on the sun shining brightly.

18 Fotolia.com / nordmann © The Midnight Sun illuminates the Lufoten Islands 20

Stewart Cook/Rex Features INTERVIEW: SIR ANTHONY HOPKINS his musical alter ego acting sons, and talks about Thor, Hannibal Lecter, healthy living and Tony Clayton-Lea INTERVIEW: SIR ANTHONY HOPKINS ANTHONY SIR INTERVIEW: meets Anthony Hopkins, one of ’s proudest “My new agent phoned me and said ‘Do you want to do Odin?’ I said ‘What?’ And he said ‘Odin, the character from the Marvel Comics.’ And I was intrigued.”

As you might guess, he is an imposing figure, and not just because you have the steely eyes of Hannibal Lecter staring at you. No, Sir Anthony Hopkins is an imposing figure because he comes weighted with history, legacy, and some very classy movie performances. Sir Anthony, now 73, was born at Margam, near Port Talbot, in south Wales. The son of a baker, at the age of 17 he wandered along to a local theatrical production, and, he says, “immediately felt at home”. Yet he was also a talented pianist, and so it was to no-one’s surprise that he won a scholarship to the Welsh College of Music and Drama, in Cardiff. After this came statutory National Service in the army, and when he was demobbed he joined The National Theatre, under director Sir Laurence Olivier. In the 60s, Hopkins was an increasingly dominant figure on the London stage, and by 1967 he had made his film debut in The Lion In Winter, with Peter O’Toole and Katherine Hepburn. That film turned out to be his launch pad, and he hasn’t stopped since. For a man of his age (as doctors are fond of saying), he looks remarkably well. “Actually, I’ve just had my blood work done, a check-up, and I’m in the kind of condition that a 45-year-old should be in,” says Hopkins, who stopped drinking in 1975 and has been a vegetarian for some years. “So that’s great. I have to watch the sugar, so no sugar or white bread, very little bread at all, really, a rye cracker now and again. But I feel very good. Do I work out? Yes, I do. I do the treadmill, I power walk, which saves the knees. I do about half an hour of that, that’s enough, I think, and then some weights, too. I have a gym at home so that’s good.” & © 2010 Marvel ©2010 MVLFFLLC. All Rights Reserved Rights All MVLFFLLC. ©2010 Marvel 2010 © &

Currently starring as Odin in the blockbuster movie, Thor, it’s fair to say ™ that Hopkins might not seem the kind of actor to take to the more frivolous comic book/action/blockbuster roles – he might seem more suited to the buttoned-up elegance of the butler, Mr Stevens, in Remains of the Day, or

performances through the years in classics such as Antony and Rosenthal. Zade Cleopatra, Equus, Hamlet, War and Peace, A Doll’s House and Great Expectations. Yet he’s very good in Thor, and it’s clear that whatever he

sets his sights on he grips it with passion and vigour. >> image: Thor SIR ANTHONY HOPKINS : ODIN, FATHER OF THOR TM & ©2010 Marvel ©2010 MVLFFLLC. All Rights Reserved. Rights All MVLFFLLC. ©2010 Marvel ©2010 & TM Hopkins as Odin in Thor. The film, which is directed by Kenneth Branagh and stars Chris Hemsworth (pictured with Hopkins on previous page) in the title role, is now on general release

What was his first thought when Thor’s director, Kenneth Branagh, From chewing gum to munching brains? He won an Oscar for his approached him to play Odin? “I was very pleased. I was doing a chilling portrayal of serial killer Hannibal Lecter in The Silence of the Woody Allen movie in London. It must have been about two years Lambs. It’s a measure of how good he is and how prolific he has ago, and my new agent phoned me and said ‘Do you want to do been that what could have been a defining role has been Odin?’ I said ‘What?’ And he said ‘Odin, the character from the transformed over the past 20 years into a great role among many Marvel Comics.’ And I was intrigued. I’ve never been a Marvel others. Yet this year is the movie’s 20th anniversary: does it come Comics geek, I think I’d read Captain Marvel when I was a kid, but ahead of every other movie he’s featured in? that was about it in terms of the American comics. And I hadn’t “I had a wonderful time doing that,” he recalls, side-stepping the read Thor.” question. “He was a hell of a character, wasn’t he? As soon as I Not that it mattered. The movie might not be up there with, say, The saw that script I knew it was one of those special parts. Instinct, I Elephant Man or Silence of the Lambs, and the role might not have suppose, because I’d never heard of the book or the director as much impact as his work in those two movies (at very least), but (Jonathan Demme). But Jodie Foster was in it, and so I knew it was clearly Hopkins is enjoying himself, as well as, perhaps, indulging a something good. In fact, that movie was the only surefire one, love of America. where I knew things would work out.”

“My father was a baker, and his assistant used to have comics sent For a man of his years, he knows he needn’t do all the work that is to him from America, and so he’d pass them on to me. I always offered to him, and so at this point in his life, he simply picks and remember the smell of them, and I remember Dick Tracy – those chooses (“I read scripts, and if they intrigue me then I’ll do them.”). big, lantern-jawed guys standing in front of a skyscraper in the He used to give acting classes, he says, but gave it up, owing to it middle of a city. I loved all of that. America seemed like another becoming bothersome (“…the politics of the group, the rivalry, and world.” all of that…”).

Along with cinema, those comics would have provided his first He still writes music, he reveals, and will present a concert of his impressions of America – the country where he now lives. Was that music (as well as music from his best known films) in Birmingham, the start of his love affair with the USA? with the city’s symphony orchestra on July 23.

“I was always fascinated by America,” enthuses Hopkins. “My “I like to improvise at home on the piano and just see what comes. family knew some American GIs who were stationed in Wales I’ve just done a film called 360 in London, with Jude Law and during the war. Two of them were killed in the Battle of Ardennes Rachel Weisz, directed by Fernando Meirelles. And Meirelles asked and I remember them clearly. And there was a lovely man, dead me if I would do a little bit of music for one of the scenes. It’s a hobby, but I do love it.” now, who was a sergeant and he and my father became very good friends. You were going to study music, weren’t you, but then acting took you in a different direction? “Yes, I was going to be a musician and “He went back to New York, where he worked as a lawyer ­and he then I just drifted into this business,” he laughs. “And I’m still here, would send us food parcels with cans of peaches and lots of other still doing it!” goodies. God, I was astonished by them, and I look back at that period with great nostalgia – lovely summer days in South Wales Sir Anthony Hopkins appears as part of the City of Birmingham – when these parcels would arrive. I would stand at the window, Symphony Orchestra’s Film Music Festival, which runs at the and my mother would come home and I’d say ‘There’s a parcel!’ Symphony Hall from July 19-23. He also performs in concert at St 22 There would always be chewing gum for me.” David’s Hall, Cardiff on July 24. LATEST GADGETS PITREC BUSINESS SCANNER CARD from a company called King Jim occurs, this handy and stylish gadget come. Until whatever revolution likely to be the case for some time to business cards, but we do, and that’s to hand that we still use traditional It’s a wonder, with all the technology area of up to 70” projected across an and pictures can be documents, movies presentations, and your rechargeable gizmo Blackberries) into this device, including (or any other video-capable Simply plug an iPod, iPhone Projector. projector with the MiLi iPhone gadgets into a fully featured movie it, because we can now transform our need to wait for those boffins to crack space and weight. Luckily, we don’t projector, which takes up valuable still need to lug around a laptop and display that content elsewhere. So, we device, there’s really been no way to video or browse our photos on the can view and edit presentations, watch rather odd situation in which, while we generation phone, we’re stuck with a presentation tool to their next Blackberry works on building in a While someone at Apple, HTC or MILI PHONE PROJECTOR Neil McLoram THE LATEST SCANS LATEST THE move. The Pitrec can scan even when you are on the all your business cards a cinch, makes storing and transporting looks at must-have gadgets and apps wherever you go. carry around your entire “collection” player did for music and you can does for contact details what the MP3 a few hundred cards. This device Imagine having to carry around even into a briefcase or bag with ease. Pitrec looks good and can be slipped searching through your files. The keywords to act as tags when and date of scan. You can even add records details like name, company, someone up, the scanner also Useful as a quick image to look OCR scanner reads it. the slot and a mini-camera with an All you do is slide the card through to no time and keeps up to 2,000 files. a business card as an image in next any external speakers. so you can produce brilliant audio via built-in stereo speaker and an AV slot 640x480 VGA images. It’s even got a micro projector capable of displaying (liquid crystal on silicon), LED-driven The MiLi features an innovative LCoS available. flat surface – walls, screens, whatever’s (works better up to 40” though) on any completely free. search apps. Best of all, the app is functions now appearing on travel can carry out some of the other integration. For the moment users capability, maps and social media hotels and car hire, other browsing searches. Later releases will include the app, covering just flight steady roll-out of functionality for the first outing is the start of a Skyscanner is keen to stress that book. one that works, just tap on it to number of connections. If you find displayed, from exact flight times to Everything you need to know is can also filter the results further. from lowest to highest price but you for you. Listings are returned ranked through airlines and travel agents bar as Skyscanner searches watch the nicely animated search search. Simple! Then sit back and specify type of passenger), and hit number of passengers (tap to your departure and arrival, the Input the locations and dates of one main screen, and all you need. The Skyscanner iPhone app has fearsomely indispensable”. describing it as “flexible, fair, and reviews, with since received incredibly positive prevent missed flights and has search geeks” in a mission to self-described group of “flight The application was created by a routes to find the best flight options. multiple airlines, travel agencies and soon). It allows users to search (with an Android version coming available in the iPhone app store best global flight search engine Skyscanner is without doubt the APPSKYSCANNER REVIEW ABERDEEN CITY OF CONTRASTS It may be known as the granite city but Aberdeen is far from a grey place as Stan Abbott found out during a recent visit ABERDEEN: EXPLORATION EXPRESS ABERDEEN: EXPLORATION

In the face it portrays to the world, Texas and elsewhere back in the heady period rooms illustrate life in the city in Aberdeen is a rather schizophrenic city. days of Frontier North Sea has the 17th, 18th and early 19th centuries. After rain or on a dreek winter’s day, its bequeathed a legacy of great places to The vaulted cellar houses an granite buildings can look a little stay, eat and drink. atmospheric café-bar. forbidding or, to be more generous, This certainly helps if you’re building a Aberdeen Art Gallery is a very solid and authoritative. flying break round a stop in Aberdeen, impressive example of the municipal But sunshine brings out the city’s smile but there’s more to life than sleeping, genre and boasts works by many of the and the granite shimmers happily, giving eating an drinking. Aberdeen may not heavyweights of British art history. the city a quite different feel. boast huge showpiece museums, but it These include Raeburn, Hogarth, does have some smaller, perfectly Ramsey and Reynolds, as well as the Which really serves to underscore that formed ones. likes of Paul Nash, Ben Nicholson, this fishing port turned global energy Stanley Spencer and Francis Bacon Aberdeen Maritime Museum tells the capital is a city of contrasts – at once and the French Impressionists and their story of the city’s long relationship with both Scottish and outward-facing; successors. relatively small but with big city the sea and is appropriately located on attributes; traditional and cutting edge. the historic Shiprow, partly in the 16th Its modern collection includes works century Provost Ross’s House and by Damien Hirst and others and it’s What is certain is that Scotland’s third partly in a contrasting, glazed link especially renowned for its applied city would have become a very different building. Its collections tell the story of art – ceramics, costume, furniture, place indeed had it not been for the shipbuilding, fast sailing ships, and glass, jewellery, metalwork and textiles. discovery of the North Sea’s black gold, fishing and it claims to be the only place All this is in the context of the city’s back in December 1969. in the UK where you can see displays own evolution, including work by early on the North Sea oil and gas industry. silversmiths in Aberdeen. And as Aberdeen seeks to refashion itself as a key player in a changing Provost Skene’s House dates from the Aberdeen is very conscious of its 24 energy world, the arrival of money from same period but is rather larger. Its position at the heart of the wider region Maritime Museum and has spelled out its view of a futuristic taking advantage of the, albeit limited, Pictured, clockwise from top left, are Victoria vision through the Aberdeen City and summer opening. Bridge, Aberdeen Art Gallery, Shire Economic Forum (ACSEF). More Aberdeen, His Majesty’s Theatre, Aberdeen Aberdeen is home to one of the newest traditionally, it’s the setting-off point for a Maritime Museum, Kings Links golf course. hotels in the Malmaison stable and it tour of magnificent Royal Deeside, whisky All pictures, except Malmaison, by Norman Adams - boasts features that you won’t necessarily trails and golf trails that combine the best Aberdeen City Council find at other hotels in the boutique chain. of links courses and the banks of the Dee. The Mal boasts a lively bar, a great Eastern Airways flies to Aberdeen from You don’t need to venture far from brasserie, gym and le Petit Spa day spa. Bergen, Stavanger, Wick, Stornoway, Aberdeen to find more delightful There’s also the underground Laroche Newcastle, Durham Tees Valley, museums. The little country town of Alford wine tasting room and Whisky Snug, a Liverpool, Leeds Bradford, Humberside, home to both the Alford Heritage Centre, great joint venture with the Scotch Malt , Norwich, Bristol and dedicated to the story of rural life, and to Whisky Society. With great food at the Southampton and also operates the the Grampian Transport Museum, which Bistro too, you’d be hard pushed not to Aberdeen-Scatsta shuttle service for the has some quite eccentric exhibits in its enjoy your stay at the Mal. oil industry Cars for the Future display. It doesn’t end Simpson’s restaurant is an old favourite, www.aberdeen-grampian.com there, as Alford offers a 2ft narrow gauge which never disappoints. New kid on the Galleries and museums www.aagm.co.uk steam railway! restaurant block is Paula McEwen, run by Alford www.alford.org.uk Alford is just a few miles from Craigievar the eponymous former Edinburgh chef. Craigievar Castle www.nts.org.uk Castle, a 17th century castle in the best See page 28 for a review. www.malmaisonaberdeen.com fairytale baronial tradition – well worth

THE ARRIVAL OF MONEY FROM TEXAS AND ELSEWHERE BEQUEATHED A LEGACY OF GREAT PLACES TO STAY, EAT AND DRINK. Douglas Hotel

Bon Accord Centre

Aberdeen’s reputation as a SHOP AT Bon Accord and St Nicholas Centres destination has been Over the past 12 months, Aberdeen’s retail scene has witnessed its most pivotal transformation. strengthened by a number of The magnitude of new names, which have boosted the city’s retail offer, coupled with the multi-million developments across its hotel, pound investments that are vastly improving the shopping scene, is transforming the Granite City into retail, leisure and transport one of the most enviable retail destinations in Scotland. sectors, making it a “must-visit” Aberdeen’s Bon Accord & St Nicholas Centres have attracted the highest portion of luxury fashion names place for business or pleasure. in the city with recent store openings including Karen Millen, Phase Eight, Jo Malone, Radley, Kurt Geiger and Hobbs – all of which are the brands’ first With its rich history and stand-alone shops in the North of Scotland. Cheryl Smith, Marketing Manager at Bon Accord & St vibrant modern city life – and a Nicholas Centres, commented: “The sheer number and calibre of brands we have welcomed to the dynamic cultural quarter centres speaks volumes for the strong reputation the Bon Accord & St Nicholas Centres hold on the emerging in the city centre – Scottish retail map. The fact retailers are choosing to open stores in Aberdeen is also testament to the you are sure to find plenty to strong allure of the city as a top shopping destination.” As part of the shopping destination’s ongoing make your stay in the Granite investment, the Bon Accord Centre is currently undergoing a £6 million modernisation programme City a memorable one. as pictured in the artist’s impression above. This follows the major refurbishment of the Bon Accord’s central atrium, which has provided a real focal point for the popular fashion hub including brand names Coast, Warehouse, Oasis and Top Shop as well as the £2 million facelift for the St Nicholas Centre. The interior of the Bon Accord Centre will also be given a stunning new facelift, so shoppers can expect to see a contemporary new design. Cheryl continues: “The refurbishment project is really going to transform the Bon Accord Centre. Not only will it inject a more modern and fresh feel to the Centre, but it will perfectly complement the range and depth of shopping on offer.

26 ABERDEEN: SPONSORED FEATURE www.aberdeenfashion.com Pavarotti’s Italian restaurant

His Majesty’s Theatre

STAY AT BE ENTERTAINED AT EAT AT The Douglas Hotel His Majesty’s Theatre, Aberdeen Pavarotti’s Italian restaurant The Aberdeen Douglas Hotel is situated Music Hall and The Lemon Tree If you’re looking for authentic Italian in the heart of the city centre, just a cuisine, you will love the Pavarotti’s minute’s walk from the rail and bus Reaching for the stars and showcasing them experience. stations. on a city stage is something Aberdeen Performing Arts does every day. The charitable Located in the heart of Aberdeen, Located on Market Street, just off Union company was established in 2004 to run His overlooking Union Terrace Gardens Street, the hotel is ideally located for Majesty’s Theatre and the Music Hall. It added and His Majesty’s Theatre, the Italian exploring the culture and charm of The Lemon Tree arts centre to its portfolio in eatery offers all the classic Italian Aberdeen with art galleries and a 2008. It is now one of the largest arts favourites on the menu, as well as a fantastic range of shops on its doorstep, organisations in the country, annually staging few unique dishes masterfully created and His Majesty’s Theatre, the Music more than 1,000 performancess. by Head Chef and Restaurateur, Hall and The Lemon Tree just a short Michele Rossetti. distance away. Opened in 1906, His Majesty’s was designed by legendary theatre architect Frank Matcham Michele and his team at Pavarotti’s Built in the height of the Victorian era, and has been lovingly preserved by pride themselves on offering the true the Aberdeen Douglas Hotel has been succeeding generations. Its stage has been Italian experience of fine food, relaxed welcoming guests since 1848 and is a graced by such luminaries as Charlton Heston dining and a warm and welcoming listed building, yet contemporary and and Vivien Leigh and today it hosts a variety of atmosphere. stylish in design. shows, from huge musicals to gritty dramas, With fresh food served every day, a as well as exceptional amateur productions. It has 98 individually designed range of smaller bite options and bedrooms, with double, twin and Traditionally a receiving theatre, HMT has also specials which capture the flavours of executive rooms, and 31 one-bedroom, recently produced its own work, including a specific region in Italy each month, fully serviced apartments, which major productions of iconic Scottish works, the menu is sure to delight and satisfy overlook Trinity Quay and are aimed at Sunset Song and The Silver Darlings. everyone’s taste. the business traveller. Approaching its 200th anniversary, Aberdeen’s What’s more, with a selection of fine Molly’s Bistro serves tasty food and drink Music Hall is a renowned concert hall which wine and champagne, as well as its throughout the day, with an emphasis on has witnessed readings by Charles Dickens convenient city centre location on fresh, local produce. And there’s nothing and visits by such VIPs as Winston Churchill, Union Terrace, Pavarotti’s is the ideal like a cold drink at the end of the day, with Nelson Mandela and Mikhail Gorbachev. It has restaurant choice when visiting the hotel’s own pub, Malone’s Irish Bar, been the musical heart of Aberdeen for 15 Aberdeen. offering genuine Irish hospitality. decades, from heavy metal bands to some of To make a reservation, call 01224 the greatest orchestras in the world, and is Furnished in traditional Irish style, 622555, or for more information, visit also an important venue on the comedy circuit. creating a warm and friendly www.pavarottisaberdeen.co.uk atmosphere, Malone’s plays host to a A much-loved community venue, The Lemon variety of activities, with live music Tree includes a 150-seat studio theatre, much in and sporting events every weekend – demand for small scale cutting edge drama and or visitors can just pull up a stool to dance, and a cabaret-style lounge to showcase the fireplace and join in the banter comedians, bands and musicians. Lunchtimes with the regulars. at The Lemon Tree on a Friday, Saturday and Sunday are particularly popular, featuring local For more information, visit traditional, folk and jazz musicians. www.aberdeendouglas.com or call 01224 582255. www.boxofficeaberdeen.com RESTAURANT REVIEW PAULA McEWEN

Meet Paula McEwen – a breath of fresh air in the restaurant Eteaket tea boutique business and, quite possibly, the polar opposite of Gordon stay in the pot just Ramsay. long enough for your taste. Where one is middle-aged and tetchy, the other is young and ABERDEEN: RESTAURANT REVIEW ABERDEEN: RESTAURANT enthusiastic; where one can strike terror, the other runs a But we get ahead of regime of encouragement and confidence-building; where ourselves… Service one hogs the limelight, the other is shy in front of the camera. begins with a chicken And, crucially, one has a restaurant in Aberdeen and the liver and red onion other does not. amuse-bouche. My slow-cooked pork belly starter with sage porridge and honey There are absolutely no prizes whatsoever for guessing which brittle is excellent, as is my partner’s king prawn with pak is Paula, 27, proud but unassuming owner of the eponymous choi and sweet chilli. Sesame seeds complement the prawn Paula McEwen, on Aberdeen’s Great Western Road. particularly well and, indeed, it is Paula’s experimentation You’ll find Paula sharing the billing on the door of the smart with unusual combinations that marks her out. granite townhouse with the 26-room Great Western Hotel (not The jury does remain out on how well the apricot tatin goes to be confused with Best Western). Entry to the hotel is with my partner’s beautiful lamb noisette with horseradish through Paula McEwen’s restaurant, and Paula also runs the pommes mousseline, but I have no such reserve about the food for the hotel’s sports bar, to the rear. delicate lemon sole, with its wild garlic purée and carrot and Look carefully as you walk up the path to the front door: the celeriac “woodpile”. restaurant’s herb garden surrounds the lawns, adding real My cherry panacotta, made with tiny Griottine cherries in meaning to “locally sourced”. kirsch and accompanied by a stem ginger Florentine, is The décor is modern, the seats chocolate simply divine and all is washed down by an leather, almost suede, the ambience excellent Turkheim Reserve French extending from romantic to quite business- Riesling. like: your choice. Paula defends the tarte tatin, My Pernod aperitif arrives in a round- which is born of her pastry bottomed tumbler that defies gravity passion – she was in the by staying perfectly upright. There pastry section at are other quirky touches: the Aberdeen’s Marcliffe at elegant curves and swirls of Pitfodels. “We are trying to be the Villeroy and Boch different, but not too different!” crockery and, to finish, Inspired by her mum, who the three-speed worked in school kitchens, tea-timer so your Paula can’t remember a carefully selected loose time when she didn’t leaves for the

Paula’s desserts are a speciality

28 want to be a chef and started out when just 15. Most of her learning I AM NO ANGEL AND THERE HAVE has been in Edinburgh at the renowned Witchery, and Number One, at the Balmoral Hotel. “I came back here to open up this place as I am BEEN MOMENTS, BUT GENERALLY I from Aberdeen,” says Paula, who is backed by partner Adrian Thom, AM QUITE A CALM PERSON AND who works in the offshore sector and looks after the business side. “When I went to Edinburgh it was a different way of doing things. VERY PATIENT. YOU HAVE GOT Aberdeen has raised the bar a lot quite recently but up until a few years ago it was quite ‘small’ for restaurants, so I decided to open this IMPRESSIONABLE PEOPLE place and knew exactly what I wanted to do.” She prefers to let her food do the talking, though reckons she does a WORKING FOR YOU AND YOU mean chocolate fondant and a pretty good scone (Paula McEwen is DON’T WANT TO PUT THEM OFF open for afternoon teas). “We try to keep it as home-made as possible and the produce is as COMING INTO THE TRADE. local as possible. I have not really been into shouting about ‘who are we!’ but we recently won runner-up in the Grampian Restaurant of the Year.” In fact, if mild-mannered Paula has hates, it’s chain restaurants and bullying TV chefs. “I think there is almost a stigma against chefs now. I am no angel and there have been moments, but generally I am quite a calm person and very patient. You have got impressionable people working for you and you don’t want to put them off coming into the trade.” Paula is still a little in shock at making a success of her own venture in her home city: “I never imagined I would be running my own place at 27,” she says. “But all I want is for the customers to be happy with the food and the service and to keep coming back.” We will do, Paula! www.paulamcewen.com COMPETITION WIN A LUXURY WEEKEND IN A CASTLE Bookings are now open for Ackergill Tower’s Glorious August Open House Party, where guests can enjoy a weekend of wonderful wildlife, toe-tapping ceilidhs and fabulous food. Eastern Airways has teamed up with Ackergill Tower to offer a lucky reader and companion the chance to experience this fabulous weekend for free.

30 Ackergill beach COMPETITION

Eastern Airways and Ackergill Tower are delighted offer one lucky reader and their companion three nights’ luxury accommodation for two people at the Glorious August Open House Party, plus flights to and from Wick. To enter simply answer the question below and send by email to [email protected]. You must place “Ackergill party” in the subject box and tell us your most recent flight with Eastern Airways. Entries may also be sent on a postcard to Ackergill party competition, Gravity Magazines, Office 15, Bizspace Abbey Business Centre, Abbey Road, Pity Me, Durham, DH1 5JZ.

Taking place from the August 5–8, the open house party As this prize is for the dates stated (August 5-8), by allows individuals the opportunity to sample Ackergill Tower’s entering this competition you are indicating that you wonderful hospitality, usually reserved for exclusive-use will be free to attend on that weekend (see also terms guests. and conditions below). The weekend will celebrate the long Scottish days and the QUESTION: Ackergill Tower is located just five minutes great outdoors with activities including a wildlife-watching from which airport? boat trip across the Pentland Firth.

Rubbing shoulders with royalty is also on the cards with an afternoon trip to the Castle of Mey Highland Games, attended FURTHER TERMS AND CONDITIONS by the Duke and Duchess of Rothesay. Entrants must be over the age of 18. Back at the castle, the fun continues with a wild stepping ceilidh, bonfires on the beach, delicious barbecues and Prize is for two people based on sharing a room for the afternoon teas, plus sporting challenges for all. Glorious August Open House Party event on August 5-8. However (subject to availability) prize may be The weekend is priced at £895 per person for three nights’ transferable to another Open House Party weekend in luxury accommodation in the 15th century castle, located just 2011. outside Wick. World-famous Ackergill boasts five miles of private secluded beach, an opera house, tree house, fishing Prize includes all meals, wines with dinner, after dinner bothy and numerous historic features. drams, drams and sloe gin served in the Gun Hall, ceilidh and entry to Highland Games. All other drinks For more information on the Open House Party weekends or will be charged. to book visit www.ackergilltower.co.uk or call 01955 603 556 Pentland Firth cruise is not included in the prize.

Ackergill Tower could not be easier to get to with regular flights to Wick from Aberdeen with Eastern Airways and connections throughout the UK. GOLF

CLOSE TO HEART A £12 million investment at Close opportunity to play with Lee Westwood, House, near Newcastle Airport, is one of the world’s number one golfer, designed to create a venue on a par was a privilege.” with Wentworth or Gleneagles, and All told, some 22 celebrity teams includes the Scott McPherson- competed in the charity event, which designed Colt course, plus a brand raised £135,000 for Have a Heart, new clubhouse and golf academy. supporting the children’s heart unit at It’s all the brainchild of entrepreneur Newcastle Freeman Hospital. Graham Wylie, one of the founding Graham and wife Angela’s young directors of Sage plc. daughter, Kiera, underwent open heart Golf Manager at the former Newcastle surgery at the Freeman Hospital aged University property, John Glendinning, just two. said: “What makes the new course so www.closehouse.co.uk special is that it has been designed as Lee Westwood and Alan an ‘old English’ course, which fits in with the style of the property. It looks Shearer were among like it has always been here and it is only eight miles from the city centre.” celebrities marking the As well as Lee Westwood and Alan opening of the UK’s Shearer, other celebrities teeing off at the opening event included BBC newest top golf course. Sportsman of the Year Tony McCoy, Ant and Dec, Newcastle United’s Steve Harper and Joey Barton, and TV presenter Ben Shephard. Alan Shearer said: “After football golf is 3232 my favourite sport, so to have the 32 MOTORING model ever designed by the company, but the ABOVE MAKING A MARQUE IN HISTORY restrained elegance which became the firm’s the originals (Series 1-5) ran from 1969 to 76. For Bristol Cars the wheel has circle,turned full writes BELOW Bristol 411 in upgraded Series 6 form; The Bristol 401 was only the second hallmark is already evident. fraction of the cost of buying Bristol. defunct motor industry names for a resurrected any number of famous Kamal Siddiqi, could have by UK-based Indian businessman Kamkorp, a Swiss company owned no sense at all. New owner At first sight the acquisition makes exciting direction. company in a completely new, out the prospect of taking the firm, but the highest offer also held themselves with several bids for the only did the administrators find had completely turned around. Not But just seven weeks later, things marque’s loyal devotees. rebuild operation, serving the continuing as a service, spares and lay in the rump of the company Its only hope, reckoned the pundits, century. the motor industry of the 21st traditional cars and just didn’t fit in numbers of very expensive, very London showroom, was making tiny Bristol, and a handful more at its 22 employees at its factory in Filton, This tiny idiosyncratic firm, with just much chance of a future. administration, few observers gave it March 3 that it was going into When Bristol Cars announced on Norman Burr Bristols were fast, elegant, sporting, during the 1950s. prized) Bristol-engined sports cars on to produce a run of (now highly interest in the new operation, going the deal and naturally took a keen war, played a key role in brokering the UK both before and after the associated with BMW imports into reparations. Frazer-Nash, which was to which had been acquired as war on pre-war BMW models, the rights and its first cars were closely based skills of aircraft workers at Filton, provide a peacetime outlet for the Bristol was founded in 1945 to Therein lies a tale. And the historical connection? within the industry. manner, largely to other companies marketed in a relatively low-key technology, which has hitherto been senses – to showcase its – in both the physical and corporate purchase of Bristol gives it a vehicle hybrid vehicle technology, and the as a world leader in electric and These days, Frazer-Nash is known back. and Frazer-Nash and Bristol go way company of Frazer-Nash Research, history, for Kamkorp is the parent But Siddiqi clearly has a feel for >> Bristol Fighter, introduced in 2004, uses 8 litre Chrysler V10 engine producing 525 to 1012hp, depending on state of tune; all versions will top 200mph

CAPTIONS

THE OLD MONEY WENT ON A ROLLS, THE FLASH MONEY WENT ON A FERRARI, THE BRISTOL DRIVER WAS MORE DISCERNING THAN EITHER

exquisitely built and, above all, them. In his view, the car should be good indeed, there is no reason to think that his understated. The old money went on a enough to sell itself – at least in the plans include provision for hiring vagrants Rolls, the flash money went on a Ferrari, numbers he was interested in making. or buying Arab clothing. In the short term, the Bristol driver was more discerning than the business will centre on maintenance In fact, if he didn’t like the cut of your jib, he either. It’s a formula that has never varied and restoration – the bankruptcy spurred wouldn’t sell you a car at all. On one throughout the marque’s 66-year history, many owners to have work done before it the only major change of direction being occasion, seeing Michael Winner striding was too late, so the workshop is currently the adoption of Chrysler V8 engines in purposefully up to the West London very busy – and the upgrading of older 1961, in place of the BMW-derived showroom, he rapidly turned the Open cars. One of the company’s best-liked two-litre six-cylinder unit. sign in the window to Closed. But Richard models, the 411, ran to five series and Branson got the thumbs up, as did Liam latterly a number of owners have asked for Much of this remarkable continuity can be Gallagher. them to be updated with modern attributed to one man: Tony Crook. mechanics and electrics, to Series VI Associated with Bristol from its very Rival manufacturers learned to tolerate, if specification. earliest years, he bought the firm in 1960 not appreciate, his offbeat sense of and ran it as a personal fiefdom until he humour. One year, he hired tramps to go Later, there will be new cars, but what and sold it in 2001, finally ending his and hang around the Rolls Royce stand at when it is too early to say. For the moment, involvement – reluctantly by all accounts – the Motor Show. Another year, he it is enough to celebrate that a fine and in 2007, at the age of 87. wandered on to the Frazer-Nash stand individualistic British product is in safe masquerading as a sheikh and announced hands and seems to have a bright future. Shrewd but highly eccentric, he placed no that he wanted to buy the entire year’s value whatsoever on conventional And if anything looks like going wrong, Mr production. marketing. He had no dealers, no PR Siddiqi, a certain Mr Crook is sure to be people and never lent road-test cars to With an act like that to follow, Siddiqi watching mischievously from the sidelines, 34 journalists. Often, he wouldn’t even talk to would be well advised not to try and, waiting to put you right. BITTER EXPERIENCEwith Alastair Gilmour IT’S THE DRINK TALKING… Of all the world’s languages the most universal is beer

The Dutch beer on the table is willing me to get to grips with it. It’s dark and tantalising – almost black – with a firm, fawn-tinged head. The aroma, the flavour and the afterglow from Van Vollenhoven & Co Stout are all I need to enjoy it. Are they though? Is there something else I should know? The label is in Dutch and I don’t speak Dutch. Is there a message in the description that I can’t decipher but which might allow me to appreciate my glass even more? It reads: “De ingrediënten van dit bier van hoge gisting zijn: Amsterdams water, bruinmout, kleurmout, donkermout, time, so no obvious language barrier sought out the collected works of lichtmout, suiker, hop en gist.” So, it’s – we had signed up to the Edinburgh McEwan, Younger and Deuchar. This not that difficult after all. Brown malts, Literary Pub Tour with 20 other people sugar and hops are universal; they’re the was our Esperanto and an opportunity – an excellent turnout on a cold Auld language of beer and the tongue that’s to converse using universal terminology Reekie evening. The crowd was heavily been lashed from first tasting the stuff. – beer. American-accented, save for a of I recall a trip to the Czech Republic Spaniards and a couple of indeterminate Similarly when I met a Norwegian when I first met one of brewing’s most mid-Europeans. journalist, who was on a fact-finding tour charismatic professionals. Ales Dvorak’s of Newcastle, the conversation flowed Two actors dressed like Jacobeans English is far superior to my Czech – along a thread of beer (although, like played characters called Clart and which stutters alarmingly after “dva pivo most Norwegians, Eva Kirstin Øvstegård McBrain, who traded opinion for opinion prosim” (two beers please) – but the pair spoke immaculate English). before we walked up the hill, away from of us quickly agreed that it’s fairly easy our first pint in The Beehive, then across But, even though the website (http:// for those who appreciate good beer to the Royal Mile to The Jolly Judge, our familiereiser.no/newcastle.htm) that she learn to communicate via their specialist next stopping-off point. In a lively duel of eventually contributed to was in subject. wits, the pair debated the importance of Norwegian, you can still pick out the gist In the bowels of the Budweiser Budvar beer and a pub atmosphere in influenc- of her experience. For example, does brewery in Ceske Budejovice, where a ing creativity and intellectual thought. “lokale puben” need any explanation? temperature of 0ºC is maintained, the After that, it was round the corner to Or, how about a comment on a young man – at that time second-brewer Deacon Brodie’s, down Fleshmarket much-loved Newcastle hostelry? – filled a two-litre stein of unfiltered Close to the Halfway House, then across “Tradisjonelle Bridge Hotel ved Castle Budvar from an enormous, horizontal Princes Street to Milne’s Bar – every Keep er en svært populær pub for cylindrical tank, took a gulp, wiped his step illuminated by the literary lokalbefolkningen.” mouth, and passed it on. connections, which ranged from Robert Whether you call it beer, bier, birra, pivo “This is our Esperanto,” he said, with no Louis Stevenson to Irvine Welsh. or øl, it’s easy to communicate with other comment. He was absolutely right; Later, under this cultural influence and others through its sheer beauty. Appre- beer talks all languages. along with the three Spaniards and the ciative grunts, winks and gestures are On another occasion – Scotland this two indeterminate mid-Europeans, we worldwide – even with your mouth full. THE PAIR OF US QUICKLY AGREED THAT IT’S FAIRLY EASY FOR THOSE WHO APPRECIATE GOOD BEER TO LEARN TO COMMUNICATE ... © kzenon / istock.com / kzenon © WELCOME TO OUR BARE ESSENTIALS Here you can find information on our routes, fleet, passenger BARE ESSENTIALS experience and a host of suggestions for what to do when you arrive at your destination.

BERGEN

OUR DESTINATIONS SCATSTA

Scheduled Routes ANGEAVST R

Charter Routes

WICK

STORNOWAY

ABERDEEN

NEWCASTLE

DURHAM TEES VALLEY LEEDS BRADFORD HUMBERSIDE

LIVERPOOL EAST MIDLANDS

NORWICH THE FLEET CARDIFF BIRMINGHAM

FI BRISTOL SOUTHAMPTON

EMBRAER ERJ135

Two aircraft Length 26m (86ft) Seats 37 passengers Typical cruising speed, TO DIJON Two turbofan engines 450 knots, at 35,000ft Wingspan, 20m (65ft)

JETSTREAM 41 SAAB 2000

20 aircraft Length 20m (63ft) Eight aircraft Length 26.7m (89ft) Seats 29 passengers Typical cruising speed, Seats 50 passengers Typical cruising speed, Two turboprop engines 280 knots, at 20,000ft Two Jetprop engines 370 knots, at 28,000ft 36 Wingspan 19m (60ft) Wingspan 24.3m (81ft) ESSENTIAL TRAVEL PASSENGER EXPERIENCE

After booking your Eastern Airways flight items of hand luggage by the aircraft via a travel agent, the airline’s website or steps. Your hand luggage will be awaiting AIR TRAVEL in-house reservations call centre, you will you on the valet baggage cart at your have noticed that Eastern Airways uses destination airport. SHOULD BE MORE OF e-tickets. It was in fact one of the airlines to pioneer ticketless travel over nine Once on board, our highly trained cabin A PLEASURE AND years ago. attendants offer a friendly and personal- ised in-flight service including compli- LESS OF A CHORE Queues at check-in are short and the mentary drinks and branded snacks. On process is swift as is the experience arrival our aircraft allow for quick through the security channels. This is disembarkation, enabling passengers to Our aim is to make your travel as pleasant possible thanks to a ground-breaking make their way swiftly onwards through an experience as possible. initiative called Fast Track, which is the terminals. available at Aberdeen, Leeds Bradford, South­ampton, East Midlands, Liverpool and Newcastle, and is a dedicated security channel for Eastern Airways STAMPING OUT DISRUPTIVE BEHAVIOUR passengers to use and avoid busy airport terminal security queues. While the vast majority of passengers flying globally behave impeccably, there is a greater awareness of isolated incidents of disruptive behaviour, also known as “air With Eastern Airways operating the rage”. While this isn’t a major problem for Eastern Airways, the safety and security of largest number of scheduled services our pass­engers and crew is our number one priority. from Aberdeen, a dedicated business lounge is available for all its customers We don’t want our customers to experience any behaviour that makes them feel flying from the airport and is located next uncomfortable, or be put in a situation that compromises safety. Disruptive behaviour to its departure gates. Executive lounge can include smoking, drunkenness, aggress­ive behaviour or abusive language towards access is also offered at Birmingham, a customer or a member of crew. Our crews are fully trained to deal with any incident of Leeds Bradford, Bristol, Norwich and this type. Cardiff for passengers travelling on fully flexible tickets. Disobeying a command, which is lawful by a crew member, is committing an offence under the UK Air Navigation Order. Offenders who persistently misbehave on As you board your aircraft you will a flight will be handed to the appropriate authorities on arrival and may face arrest and a notice we have a fleet of liveried valet heavy fine or up to two years imprisonment. Severe restrict­ions will also be placed on baggage carts for you to place larger their future travel with Eastern Airways.

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ESSENTIAL GOINGS ON ESSENTIAL GOINGS ON… The museum will house more than Bird, overlooking the Three Graces. for themselves the 18ft life-size Liver the new museum in July will be able see tallest building in Britain. Now visitors to perch on top of what was once the to grasp the sheer size of the birds that Until now, people have found it difficult to that World Heritage Site.” what is undoubtedly a stunning addition we will soon be welcoming visitors to the world over, and we are pleased that said: “Liverpool’s waterfront is known man of National Museums Liverpool, Professor Phil Redmond CBE, Chair and contemporary issues of the city. culture and tackle the social, historical to the world, it will showcase popular Liverpool’s extraordinary contribution history of a regional city. Demonstrating in the world that is devoted to the claims to be the first national museum The £72 million Museum of Liverpool Liver Building, opened. since its iconic neighbour, the Royal Tuesday July 19 – 100 years to the day opens its first phase to the public on century, the new Museum of Liverpool, museum in Britain for more than a The largest newly-built national FOR LIVERPOOL MUSEUM CLASS WORLD

- www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/mol/ later this year. The second and final phase will open histories of our football teams.” including The Beatles, and the dramatic the triumphs of our musical exports of struggle such as the Toxteth riots, and its people. This includes the times is all about telling the stories of the city Museums Liverpool said: “The Museum David Fleming, Director of National city’s rich sporting and creative history. Railway, and immerse themselves in the the famous Liverpool Overhead hand the last remaining carriage from into the world’s greatest port, see first ney first met, witness the city’s growth where John Lennon and Paul McCart People will be able to see the stage been on public display before. 6,000 objects, many which have never www.brazilicafestival.com Liverpool from July 15-17. event takes place across kind in the UK. The three-day to be the biggest carnival of its Brazilian carnival event promises Brazilica, a new international Also new to Liverpool... - www.sailhebrides.info KT Tunstall one of its leading attractions. July 14-16 with famous Scottish singer July 9 and the Hebridean Celtic Festival Gairloch Big Boat Event on Saturday Stornoway around this time incluce the of the festival. Other events in be visiting Stornoway towards the end public and crews of Tall Ships which will which are open to members of the Challenge and rowing races open days Highlights include a Seahold to keep their skills alive. sailors and would-be sailing enthusiasts their prowess and splendour and enable () of the Outer Hebrides display which the unique traditional sailing craft sailing and related activities during Stornoway July 4-16, is a celebration of The Sail Hebrides Maritime Festival, HEBRIDES... SAIL www.aamcowesweek.co.uk are also opportunities to go afloat. the racing from the shore though there sailors. Spectators can watch much of world-class professionals to weekend competitors range from Olympic and around 1,000 boats. The 8,500 6-13 with up to 40 daily races for It takes place this year from August sailing regatta of its kind in the world. sporting events. It’s also the largest longest running and most successful event is now known, is one of the UK’s Management Cowes Week, as the Cowes Week, or Aberdeen Asset COWES SAIL ...OR

Copyright Rick Tomlinson LATIN TIMETABLE The ¡Vamos! Latin Festival takes place around the Newcastle area until July 10. Highlights include the Mexican wrestling spectacular Lucha Future on June 28 at The Sage Gateshead and on Saturday, July 9 ¡Vamos! joins up with the Mouth of the Tyne Festival taking place at Tynemouth Priory to feature an exclusive performance by one of Spain’s hottest acts, Fuel Fandango. The festival ends the following day with a closing GAME FOR A LAUGH party starring Cuban musician Roberto Poveda at Crusoes Bar, Longsands Beach, Bergen’s Game Festival, running from Tynemouth. www.vamosfestival.com July 29 to August 6, features more than 50 indoor and outdoor games and tournaments guaranteed to appeal to kids of all ages. Billed as the world’s biggest game festival, it attracts masters from both home and abroad and offers family activities and entertainment with competitions including Monopoly, Trivial Pursuit, Chess, Poker, Backgammon, Pub Quizzes and more. THE WOW! FACTOR Gorillas are invading the streets of Bristol LET’S GO DOWN TO THE RIVERSIDE this summer as part of Wow 175! – a series of events celebrating Bristol Zoo The 24th Stockton International Riverside international artists. Gardens’ 175th anniversary. Festival promises to be the most This year’s spectacular festival finale is a Wow! Gorillas brings a world-class mass entertaining so far, with magical UK premiere, featuring the Argentinean public-art event to the streets and parks performances from around the globe. company Voala. Taking inspiration from as artists decorate life-size gorillas, which For four days in August (4-7), Stockton’s the psychedelia of the 1960s, Muare will then be placed around the city for ten riverside area is transformed into a vast features a giant mobile suspended from weeks starting in July. The world-class performance space for both UK and a 100-tonne crane, 13 extraordinary event, in partnership with Bristol City international outdoor arts, bringing acrobats suspended from the mobile and Council and Wild in Art, will raise audiences a stellar line-up of co- uplifting . significant funds to support gorilla commissions, UK premieres and www.sirf.co.uk conservation projects and Bristol charity Wallace and Gromit’s Grand Appeal.

Voala Other events now underway include the Wow! Walk of Fame, which celebrates 49 of the city’s most renowned people and Wow! Meerkats, which marks the opening of a new 152-square-metre all-weather meerkat enclosure at the zoo. The exhibit benefits from warm rocks to provide localised heating for the meerkats, as well as large sandy areas for them to dig and forage, and off-show sections where they can rest and sleep. There’s a BIG village fete on Saturday July 16 with performers, artists and craftspeople and half-price entry to the Gardens for anyone wearing a birthday party hat on Monday July 11. www.bristolzoo.org.uk 40

Region Stavanger BARE ESSENTIALS : DESTINATIONS DIJON www.aeroport.dijon.cci.fr/en Airport +33(0)38067 www.visitdijon.com Tourist/Local Info+33(0)89270 0558 Bordeaux, Toulouse, Nantes Eastern Airways flights direct to Southampton, Montmuzard, until August 31. August until Montmuzard, de rue photography, animal face: to Face Exhibition; Historique Centre the at artists contemporary 30 exhibition: Permanent Pelpa, rue Marceau Le Smart, 8 rue Claus Sluter; La Salsa La Rhumerie 14 Place de la Jamaique; town and the surrounding villages. and local products can be found in de la Liberté. Gastronomy, wine cellars stores. Don’t miss the Maille shop, rue of traditional boutiques and department Dijon’s town centre has a wide choice Beaune. set in the vineyards, heading towards d’Or; Hotel Chateau de Gilly Vougeot, Dijon, Parc de la Toison Dijon La Cloche, town centre; Cathedral; Darcy Gardens. Museum of Fine Arts; St Benigne Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy and minutes, cost east of the city. Taxi into town takes 20 Dijon airport is situated 4.5 miles south Europcar info on back page. Sainte-Anne. Monge; Le Club des Œnophiles, 18 rue WHERE WHERE COMING UP COMING EATAT AND DRINK AT SHOP STAYAT VISIT

€ 15-20. For car hire see ; Le Chabrot, 36 rue Bareuzai statue

Enhjørningen Restaurant. Potetkjelleren, Bellevue Restaurant. both in Bryggen. Holberg Stuen or Zachariasbryggen, Kløverhuset for clothes. Shop at Galleriet in the city centre; Hordaland, Aug 13-Sept 18. 18. 13-Sept Aug Hordaland, Weeks, Saga Coast Kystsogevekene 6; 29-Aug Jul Festival, Game Bergen 3; 30-Jul Jun Rideklubb, Bergen Show, Horse Bergen 24-26; Jun festival, jazz and blues Osoren www.visitbergen.com Tourist/Local Info +47552000 Norwich Tees Valley, East Midlands,Newcastle. Humberside, Onward connections to EasternDurham Airways flights direct to Aberdeen, www.avinor.no/en/airport/bergen Airport +4767031555 quayside. Thon Bergen Brygge, both on the old Radisson hairpin bends of Stalheimskleiva pass. UNESCO’s World Heritage List) and the Aurlandsfjord, the narrow Naeroyfjord (on the breathtaking Flam Railway, takes in the scenic Bergen Railway, – a short tour (ideally three days) that Edvard Grieg. Do Norway in a Nutshell Troldhaugen, the home of composer car hire see Europcar info on back page. and scheduled buses, boat and taxi. For Bergen. The airport is served by airport 12 miles south-west of the centre of Bergen airport Flesland is approximately COMING UP COMING EATAT AT DRINK AT SHOP STAYAT VISIT WHERE BERGEN , Wick

B

lu Royal or the mid-market

Bryggen www.regionstavanger.com Tourist/Local Info +47519755 Southampton, Wick Tees Valley, EastMidlands,Humberside, Newcastle. OnwardconnectionstoDurham toAberdeen, Airwaysflightsdirect Eastern www.avinor.no/en/airport/stavanger Airport +4767031000 Kjeringholmen, 4001Stavanger. Norwegian Petroleum Museum, that overlookstheLysefjord; Pulpit Rock–anaturalrock formation page. For carhire seeEuropcar infoonback and isservedbyaregular shuttlebus. airport isjustninemilesoutoftown the country’s south-westcoast.The Norway’s fourthlargest citylieson 28-31. Jul 2011, Races Tall Ships The 22-25; Jul Stavanger, Tou Scene, Festival), (Juggling Bestkystfestivalen 14-16; Jul Mølle, Bryne Festival, Ranglerock 3; 27-Jul Jun sentrum, Stavanger 2011, Volleyball Tour Beach World Nedre Strandgate. traditional Norwegianfood;Tango, Sjøhuset Skagen–specialisesin Skagen 14. Dickens, Skagenkaien;Newsman, centre is just 7 miles south of Stavanger. Kvadrat, Norway’s biggest shopping airport. Strand Hotel,onthebeach,near Brygge, allinthecitycentre; Sola The Clarion,ThonMaritim,Skagen VISIT WHERE COMING UP COMING EATAT AT DRINK AT SHOP STAYAT STAVANGER

World Tour BeachVolleyball

SHETLAND SCATSTA STORNOWAY WICK

Shetland Nature Festival Lewis Chessmen Unmasked Captain’s

WHERE WHERE WHERE Twenty four miles north west of Lerwick, To the east of the town. Taxis and car One mile from the centre of Wick, half-an- Shetland’s principal town, and five miles hire are available at the airport. No hour’s drive from Thurso. Main bus and rail south-west of Sullom Voe oil terminal. The weekend flights. Mackinnon Self Drive: stations are near to Wick centre serving village of Brae is about eight miles to the +44 (0)1851 702984. most places in Caithness. Trains to south. For hire car visit www.boltscarhire. Thurso and Inverness. Post bus operates co.uk or call 01595 693 636 (no on-airport VISIT Thurso-Wick-Airport. Car hire: Dunnets facilities) Stornoway Museum, Francis St; offers airport pick-up and drop-off, Stornoway Fish Smokers, Shell St; 01955 602103. VISIT Woodlands Centre, Lews Castle Muckle Flugga, Unst. Forget John grounds; An Lanntair Arts Centre, VISIT O’Groats, this is the very northernmost Kenneth Street, Stornoway. Wick Heritage Museum; St Fergus Gallery, tip of Britain. Shetland Museum, Lerwick; Sinclair Terr; Pulteney Distillery, Huddart St. Jarlshof, Grutness (both mainland). STAY AT Hotel Hebrides, Tarbert; Royal Hotel, STAY AT STAY AT Cromwell St; Scarista House, west Mackays Hotel; The Brown Trout Hotel, Busta House Hotel, Brae; Saxa Vord Harris; Auberge Carnish, Uig. Station Rd, Watten, nr Wick. Resort, Unst; Orca Country Inn, Sandwick. SHOP AT SHOP AT SHOP AT Callanish Jewellery, Point St; This John O’Groats (pottery, knitwear); Shetland Fudge, Lerwick; Jamieson ’n That, Cromwell St; Borgh Pottery, Rotterdam St, Thurso (20 miles) & Son Knitwear, Lerwick; Valhalla Brewery, Borgh (20 miles). Saxa Vord. DRINK AT DRINK AT Ebenezer’s, Mackay’s Hotel; Wetherspoons DRINK AT Clachan Bar, North Beach; Hebridean and Camps Bar. Mid Brae Inn, Brae; The Lounge Bar, Bar, South Beach; Rest, Lerwick; Kiln Bar, Scalloway. Francis St. EAT AT Bord de l’Eau, Market St; Le Bistro, EAT AT EAT AT Thurso; Captain’s Galley, Scrabster Busta House Hotel, Brae; Monty’s Bistro, Digby Chick, Bank St; Golden Ocean, (22 miles). Lerwick; Saxa Vord Resort, Unst. Cromwell St; Thai, Church St. COMING UP COMING UP COMING UP Mey Market, Mey Hall, Tuesday from Shetland Nature Festival, Jul 2-10; The Lewis Chessmen Unmasked mid-May to mid-September; Lybster Gala Tall Ships Races 2011, Jul 21-24; Fiddle exhibition, Museum nan Eilean, until Week, Jun 25-Jul 2; Pipe Band Week, Frenzy, Aug 7-14; Blues Festival, Sept Sept 12; Hebridean Maritime Festival, Wick, Jul 2-9; Glorious August House 9-11; Peerie Willie Johnson Guitar Festival Stornoway, Jul 1-13; Harris Festival, Party, Ackergill Tower, Aug 5-8; Thurso (dates to be confirmed). Jul 3-8; Lewis Golf Week, Stornoway Gala, Aug 7-12. Golf Club, Jul 9-15; Heb Celt Festival, Jul 13-16; Taransay Fiddle Week, Jul 18-22.

Airport 01806 244900 Airport 01851 702256 Airport 01955 602215 www.hial.co.uk/stornoway-airport.html www.hial.co.uk/wick-airport.html Frequent daily charter service to Aberdeen, operated by Eastern Airways for the Integrated Eastern Airways flights direct to Aberdeen. Onward Eastern Airways flights direct to Aberdeen. Onward Aviation Consortium connections to Bristol, Durham Tees Valley, East connections to Bergen, Bristol, Durham Tees Valley, Tourist/Local Info 01595 98 98 98 Midlands, Humberside, Leeds Bradford, Newcastle, East Midlands, Humberside, Leeds Bradford, www.visit.shetland.org Norwich, Southampton, Wick Newcastle, Norwich, Stavanger, Stornoway Tourist/Local Info 01851 703088 Tourist/Local Info 0845 22 55 121 www.visithebrides.com www.visithighlands.com www.caithness.org

ABERDEEN NEWCASTLE DURHAM TEES VALLEY

The Stranglers headline Wizard 2011 SummerTyne festival Stockton’s Golf Festival BARE ESSENTIALS : DESTINATIONS WHERE WHERE WHERE Seven miles north-west of the city Seven miles north-west of the city Five miles east of Darlington and 10 centre, off the A96. Regular buses into centre. Metro rail link every few miles west of Middlesbrough.There is the city centre. For car hire see Europcar minutes to the city, Gateshead and a regular bus shuttle to Darlington rail info back page. Sunderland. Half-hourly bus service. station, 6 miles away on main line to Taxi fare to city, approx £12. For car Scotland and the South. Taxi fare to VISIT hire see Europcar info on back page. Darlington approx £8. For car hire Aberdeen Maritime Museum, see Europcar info on back page. Shiprow; Talbooth Museum, Castle St; VISIT Rendezvous Gallery, Forest Ave. Discovery Museum, Blandford Square; VISIT Gateshead Quays for the Baltic and mima (Middlesbrough Institute STAY AT Sage Gateshead. of Modern Art) Centre Square; Malmaison Aberdeen, Queen’s Rd; Locomotion, the National Railway Skene House Hotel suites, various STAY AT Museum at Shildon; Hartlepool’s locations; any of Thistle’s three hotels. , Grey Street Hotel and Maritime Experience, Historic Quay. Jesmond Dene House, Newcastle; SHOP AT Seaham Hall Hotel and Spa, County STAY AT Juniper (gifts, jewellery), Belmont Durham. Rockliffe Hall, Hurworth on Tees; St; Past Times, Union St; Aberdeen Walworth Castle, near Darlington; Antique Centre, South College St. SHOP AT Headlam Hall, near Darlington. Jules B, Jesmond; Cruise, Princess DRINK AT Square, Newcastle; Van Mildert, SHOP AT The Monkey House, Union Terr; Pearl Sunderland and Durham. Psyche, Linthorpe Road, Lounge, Dee St; The Globe, North Middles­brough. Silver St; Tiger Tiger, Ship Row; DRINK AT Balaclava Bar, Loch St. Crown Posada, the Side; Florita’s, DRINK AT Collingwood St; The Forth, Lane. George and Dragon, Yarm; Black Bull, EAT AT Frosterley. Simpson’s Hotel, Bar and Brasserie, EAT AT Queens Rd; Prohibition, Langstane Pl; Zen, Court Lane, Durham; Blackfriars, EAT AT Stage Door Restaurant, North Silver St; Newcastle; Pan Haggerty, Queen St, Sardis, Northgate, Darlington; Cinnamon, Union St; Manzil, King St; Newcastle; Le Raaj, Chester Moor. Dun Cow Inn, Sedgefield; The Paula McEwen, Great Western Road. Orangery, Rockliffe Hall. COMING UP COMING UP EAT! food festival, Jun 18-Jul 3; COMING UP Stonehaven Folk Festival, Jul Northern Rock Cyclone cycling festival, Middlesbrough Mela, Albert Park, Jul 7-10; Aberdeen International Youth Jun 24-26; BUPA Great North 10K, 16-17; Stockton Cycling Festival, Jul Festival, various venues, Jul 27-Aug Gateshead Stadium, July 17; 16-17; Cleveland Show, Prissick Sports 7; Wizard (music) Festival, New Deer SummerTyne Americana Festival, The Base, Jul 23; Stockton’s Golf Festival, Showground, Aug 26-27; The Braemar Sage, Gateshead, Jul 22-24; Gateshead Aug 2-5; Stockton International Gathering, Sept 3. Summer Flower Show, Jul 29-31. Riverside Festival, Aug 4-7.

Airport 0870 040 0006 Airport 0871 882 1121 Airport 01325 332811 www.aberdeenairport.com www.newcastleinternational.co.uk www.durhamteesvalleyairport.com Eastern Airways flights direct to Bergen, Eastern Airways flights direct to Aberdeen, Eastern Airways flights direct to Aberdeen, Bristol, Durham Tees Valley, East Midlands, Bergen, Birmingham, Cardiff, Stavanger. Onward Southampton. Onward connections to Bergen, Humberside, Leeds Bradford, Liverpool, connections to Stornoway, Wick Stavanger, Stornoway, Wick Newcastle, Norwich, Southampton, Stavanger, Tourist/Local Info Tourist/Local Info Stornoway, Wick. Onward connections to Cardiff 0191 277 8000 / 0191 478 4222 01642 729700 / 264957 Tourist/Local Info 01224 288828 www.visitnewcastlegateshead.com www.visitteesvalley.co.uk

42 Liverpool image: Tate The Merseyside Partnership www.aberdeencityandshire.com HUMBERSIDE LEEDS BRADFORD LIVERPOOL

The Deep Malmaison World of Mummies Revealed

WHERE WHERE WHERE Fifteen miles east of Scun­thorpe, 20 miles Nine miles north-west of Leeds city centre, Close to the M57, M62 and M56. Journey south of Hull, 16 miles west of Grimsby. seven miles from Bradford. Regular Airlink into city centre is seven miles, approximately Regular bus services to Hull, Grimsby, 757 bus from bus and rail stations to 20 minutes. Bus and coach stops at front of Scunthorpe, Doncaster and Sheffield. terminal. Taxi time 20-25 mins. For car terminal. Taxis from outside approx £15 to city Barnetby Station three miles from airport hire see Europcar info on back page. centre. For car hire see Europcar info on back with Intercity connections via Don­caster. page. Approx taxi fare to Hull £26. For car hire VISIT see Europcar info, back page. Royal Armouries, Leeds; Leeds City VISIT Museum, Millennium Square; National Tate Liverpool, Walker Art Gallery, World VISIT Media Museum, Bradford. Museum Liverpool, Bug World, Beatles Museums Quarter, Hull’s Old Town; The Story Museum. Deep, Hull; Lincoln Cathedral; Ferens Art STAY AT Gallery, Hull. Mint Hotel, Leeds; Radisson BLU, The STAY AT Headrow, Leeds; Malmaison, Leeds; the Malmaison Liverpool, Princes Dock; 62 STAY AT New Ellington, Leeds. Castle St; Hard Days Night Hotel, North Forest Pines Hotel, Broughton; Cave John St. Castle Hotel, Brough; Best Western SHOP AT Willerby Manor Hotel, Willerby. Retro Boutique, Headingley Lane, Leeds; SHOP AT Harvey Nichols, Briggate, Leeds; Victoria Liverpool One, Wall St; Cavern Walks, SHOP AT Quarter, Leeds. Mathew St; Met Quarter, Whitechapel. Bailgate and Steep Hill area, Lincoln; Henri Beene (Menswear), Abbeygate, Grimsby. DRINK AT DRINK AT Baby Jupiter, York Place, Leeds; Fudge Korova, Fleet St; Alma de Cuba, Seel St; DRINK AT Bar, Assembly St, Leeds; Haigys, Lumb Baby Blue, Albert Dock. The Wig & Mitre, Steep Hill, Lincoln; Ye Lane, Bradford. Olde Black Boy, High St, Hull. EAT AT EAT AT Panoramic, West Tower; Etsu Japanese EAT AT The Wardrobe, St Peters Square, Leeds; Restaurant, The Strand; Gusto – Albert Figs Restaurant, Cleethorpes; Browns Restaurant, Headrow, Leeds; Dock, Edward Pavillion. Brackenborough Hotel and Restaurant, Ujala Tandoori, Manville Terrace, Bradford. Louth; Winteringham Field, Winteringham; COMING UP Pipe and Glass, South Dalton, Beverley. COMING UP Dare to Wear: Glass Dresses by Diana England vs Sri Lanka One Day Dias-Leao, Walker Art Gallery, until 30 Sept COMING UP International, Headingley Carnegie 2011; Ancient Egypt - World of Mummies Humber Mouth Literature Festival, Hull city Stadium, Jul 1; Leeds Loves Food, Jul 1-3; Revealed; until Dec 31, World Museum centre, Jun 25-Jul 10; Humber Bridge Half Great Yorkshire Show, Harrogate, Jul Liverpool; René Magritte: The Pleasure Marathon, Jun 26; Bridlington Summer 12-14; Leeds Festival, Aug 26-28; Saltaire Principle, Tate Liverpool, Jun 24-Oct 16; Festival, Jul 2-10; Hull Jazz Festival, Jul Festival, Sept 8-18. International Beatle Week Festival 2011, 21-31; P1 Superstock Powerboat Racing, Cavern Club, Aug 24-30. Hull Marina, Jul 30-31.

Airport 01652 688456 Airport 0113 250 9696 Airport 0871 521 8484 www.humbersideairport.com www.leedsbradfordairport.co.uk www.liverpoolairport.com Eastern Airways flights direct to Aberdeen. Eastern Airways flights direct to Aberdeen, Eastern Airways flights direct to Aberdeen, Onward connections to Bergen, Stavanger, Southampton. Onward connections to Southampton Stornoway, Wick Stornoway Tourist/Local Info 0844 870 0123 Tourist/Local Info 01482 486600 Tourist/Local Info 0113 242 5242 www.visitliverpool.com www.visithullandeastyorkshire.com www.leeds.gov.uk www.visitlincolnshire.com www.leedsliveitloveit.com www.yorkshire.com 44

BARE ESSENTIALS : DESTINATIONS hire seeEuropcar infoonbackpage. short bus/taxi ride from EMA. For www.eastmidlandsairport.com Airport 08719199000 www.experiencenottinghamshire www.visitderby.co.uk 01332 255802 Tourist/Local Info connections toBergen,Stavanger, Stornoway, Wick toAberdeen.Onward Airwaysflightsdirect Eastern Festival, Sherwood Forest, Aug 10-14. Riverside Festival, Aug 5-7; Robin Hood festival, Newark, Jul 8-10; Nottingham Jun 29-Jul 10; Americana International Nottingham Food and Drink Festival, Hot Buffet, GooseGate,Nottingham. Loch Fyne,KingSt,Nottingham;Red Canal St,Nottingham. Nottingham Castle;TheWaterfront, Ye OldeTrip toJerusalem,below jewellery,, artwork),Arnold Nottingham; TheArtisan’s Studio(gifts, Paul Smith,MiddlePavement, St Mary’s Gate,Derby. Nottingham; CathedralQuarterHotel, Lace MarketHotel,HighPavement, Quarter, Derby. cafe barandartsworkshop,Cathedral Park, Derby;QUADgallery, cinema, Marian Way; ElvastonCastleCountry Cross; Tales ofRobinHood,Maid Nottingham Contemporary, Weekday Eaton, Not Rail stations Nottingham, Twelve miles from both Derby and WHERE COMING UP COMING EATAT AT DRINK AT SHOP STAYAT VISIT EAST MIDLANDS EAST

­tingham and

just off theM1junction24. Lough

/ Americana International 08444 775678

­borough, Long Derby are a Nottingham. car .com www.visitbirmingham.com Tourist/Local Info08448883883 toNewcastle Airwaysflightsdirect Eastern www.bhx.co.uk Airport 08712827117 Symphony Hall, Jul 19-23. Orchestra’s Film Music Festival, City of Birmingham Symphony Festival, Midlands Arts Centre, Jul 5-10; Festival Jul 1-10; Birmingham European Birmingham International Jazz & Blues St. St;Opus,Cornwall Cornwall Restaurant, BishopsgateSt;Opus, San Carlo,Temple St;Peppers Factory; TheBoilerRoom,Vyse St. Gas St;TheMedicineBar, Custard Bank, BrindleyPl;TheTap andSpile, (Mailbox). Selfridges (Bullring);HarveyNichols Rotunda. Marriott, HagleyRd;StayingCool, Holloway Circus Queensway; Malmaison (Mailbox);Radisson, Cadbury’s World, Linden Rd, Bournville. Jewellery Quarter, Vyse St, Hockley; Chamberlain Sq; Museum of the Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery, see Europcar infoonbackpage. Birmingham andCoventry. Forcarhire Stationfortrainsto International Link monorailsystemtoBirmingham of theM42.Connectedbyfree Air-Rail Six mileseastofthecity, off Junction6 COMING UP COMING EATAT AT DRINK AT SHOP STAYAT VISIT WHERE BIRMINGHAM

St MartinsandSelfridges www.bristolairport.co.uk Airport 08713344444 Art Gallery, QueensRoad;SSGreat Egypt Gallery, BristolCityMuseum& info onbackpage. super-Mare. Forcarhire seeEuropcar return. AlsolocalservicestoWeston- city centre,time30mins.£6 journey Coach serviceapprox half-hourlyto Eight milessouth-westofBristol. www.visitbristol.co.uk Tourist/Local Info03333210101 Onward connectionstoStornoway, Wick toAberdeen. Airwaysflightsdirect Eastern Fiesta, Ashton Court, Aug 11-14. 29-31; Bristol International Balloon Jul 1-31; Bristol Harbour Festival, Jul 29; The Bristol Shakespeare Festival, Museum and Art Gallery, Jun 18-Aug Beryl Cook: Larger than Life, Bristol Chandos Road. Caines, CollegeGreen; Culinaria, Pieminister, StokesCroft; Michael Pool andLoungeBar, ParkSt. brewery, ColstonSt;TheElbowRoom Zero Degrees award-winning micro- Galleries atCribbsCauseway. Markets andBroadmead; TheMall Clifton VillageandParkSt;StNicholas Lewins, Mead. Almondsbury; HotelduVin,Narrow Aztec Hotel&Spa,West, Reef Aquarium,Harbourside. Britain, Great Western Dock VISIT WHERE COMING UP COMING EATAT AT DRINK AT SHOP STAYAT BRISTOL

Balloon Fiesta ­yard; Blue CARDIFF NORWICH SOUTHAMPTON

International Food and Drink Festival Norwich Puppet Theatre Montagu Arms

WHERE WHERE WHERE Twelve miles west of Cardiff, 10 miles from Three miles north of the city. Hourly bus Five miles north of city. Parkway Station Junction 33 on M4. Rail link, every hour, service into the city centre. Approx taxi beside terminal, three trains hourly to connects airport to Cardiff Central and fare to Norwich £7. For car hire see Southam­pton and London Waterloo. Bridg­end. For car hire see Europcar info Europcar info on back page. Buses hourly to the city. For car hire on back page. see Europcar info on back page. VISIT VISIT Norwich Cathedral, The Close; Norwich VISIT Cardiff Castle; , Castle, Elm Hill; Sandringham Estate, Solent Sky, Hall of Aviation, Gilbert ; Cardiff Bay Visitor Centre ‘The Norfolk; Norwich Puppet Theatre, Road South; Maritime Museum, Town Tube’, Harbour Drive; Norwegian Church Whitefriars, Norwich. Quay Rd; Spinnaker Tower, Portsmouth. Arts Centre, Cardiff Bay. STAY AT STAY AT STAY AT The Maids Head Hotel, Tombland; De Vere Montagu Arms, Beaulieu; The White Star Peterstone Court, in the Usk Valley; Dunston Hall Hotel & Golf Club, Ipswich Tavern and Dining Rooms, Oxford St; De St David’s Hotel & Spa, Havannah St, Rd; Marriott Sprowston Manor Hotel & Vere Grand Harbour Hotel, West Quay Rd; Cardiff Bay. Country Club; Barnham Broom Hotel & Chilworth Manor, Chilworth; Carey’s Spa, Honingham Rd. Manor, Brockenhurst. SHOP AT St Mary Street for specialist shops; Splott SHOP AT SHOP AT Market (weekends), SE of city centre. Jarrold’s, London Street; Soho Hip, WestQuay, city centre; Bargate Centre, Pottergate; Ginger Ladies Wear, Timberhill. East Bargate; Antiques quarter, Old DRINK AT Northern Rd; Gunwharf Quays, Pen and Wig, Park Grove; Park Vaults, DRINK AT Portsmouth. Park Place. The Fat Cat, West End St; The Adam & Eve, Bishopgate; The Wine Press, Woburn DRINK AT EAT AT Court, Guildhall Hill; The Last Wine Bar, The Dolphin, Osborne Road South; The Champers, St Mary’s Street; La Fosse, St Georges St. Frog and , Canute Rd; Ocean ; Bosphorus Turkish Restaurant, & Collins, Vincent’s Walk. Cardiff Bay. EAT AT Tatlers, Tombland; Mambo Jambo, EAT AT COMING UP Lower Goat Lane; Umberto’s Trattoria Olive Tree, Oxford St; P.O.S.H. High Kicks and Low Life: Toulouse Lautrec Italia, St Benedicts St. Queensway; The Purbani, Botley. Prints, , until Jun 26; FIM British Speedway, Millennium COMING UP COMING UP Stadium, Jun 25 & Jul 14; Cardiff Lord Mayor’s Celebration, Norwich Centre, The Southampton Thai Festival, Hoglands International Food and Drink Festival, Jul 7-10; Shakespeare Festival: Romeo & Park, Jul 3; Mela Festival, Hoglands Park, , Jul 8-10; Welsh Proms, Juliet / Twelfth Night, Norwich Cathedral, Jul 26; August Fair, Southampton St David’s Hall, Jul 8-16; The Admiral Jul 12-16, Holkham Country Fair, Jul Common, Aug 24-29; Southampton Boat Cardiff Big Weekend, Aug 5-7; Cardiff 16-17; North Norfolk Music Festival, Aug Show, Sept 16-25. Harbour Festival, Aug 27-29. 31-Sept 11.

Airport 01446 711111 Airport 01603 411923 Airport 0870 040 0009 www.cwlfly.com www.norwichairport.co.uk www.southamptonairport.com Eastern Airways flights direct to Newcastle. Eastern Airways flights direct to Aberdeen. Onward Eastern Airways flights direct to Aberdeen, Onward connections to Aberdeen connections to Bergen, Stornoway, Wick Durham Tees Valley, Leeds Bradford, Liverpool. Tourist/Local Info 0870 121 1258 Tourist/Local Info 01603 213999 Onward connections to Bergen, Stavanger, www.visitcardiff.com www.visitnorwich.co.uk Stornoway www.southernwales.com Tourist/Local Info 023 8083 3333 www.visit-southampton.co.uk EATING BESIDE THE SEASIDE ESSENTIAL GUIDE ESSENTIAL GUIDE

Life’s a beach they say. But what makes beach life complete is great food beside the sea. We seek out the best of real seaside eating and ambience, from the humble beach café to à la carte elegance…

46 Stavanger Life/Region Rakke/Nordic Terje Norway

SOLA STRAND SELJE HOTEL Sola Strand, named sixth best beach in the world by Norway’s fjords tend to plunge precipitously without the Sunday Times, is right by Stavanger airport, and the nicety of beaches and the country is not normally the historic Sola Strand Hotel boasts a great noted for its white sandy beaches, or indeed its beach restaurant, with outdoor tables, that does everything cafés. But there are beautiful beaches from the very from locally sourced prawn sandwiches and mussels, south to the far north of the country – you just need to to gourmet venison. And there’s a spa opened just last know where they are! Take the relatively undiscovered year. Great place to wind down after your trip or to island of Selje, on a daily direct boat route from Bergen relax ahead of a busy schedule! (it’s a long way round by road!). The 49-room Selje http://sola-strandhotel.no/en Hotel is right on the beach and its restaurant, with Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Stavanger outdoor tables, does fresh sea food. It also boasts Scandinavia’s first thalasso (sea water) spa. www.seljehotel.no Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Bergen

Sola Strand is right by Stavanger airport and boasts a great restaurant, with outdoor tables

>> The Melvich Hotel, Caithness offers local Scotland produce and views as far as the Orkneys

BRAEWICK CAFE The café at Braewick Eshaness caravan park (which also boasts wooden “wigwams”), in the northwest of Shetland’s mainland, is something of a gem. Much of the food is sourced from the owners’ own working croft and the view is over the dramatic Drongs sea stacks. Pretty Braewick beach is a short stroll. www.eshaness.moonfruit.com Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Scatsta

PORT BEACH HOUSE The boast of the highly recommended Port Beach House, at Ness, on the Isle of Lewis, is that your next stop is Iceland. But its location, overlooking Ness harbour and beach at the northernmost tip of the island, doesn’t militate against 16 balcony seats from which to watch natural caves, further excavated from the the gannets at play. Rustic lunches and 18th century onwards. Steeped in dinners with plenty of local produce and the North of England influence of owner Hamish Robb’s time work- smuggling legend, the grotto overlooks ing in Sydney. www.portbeachhouse.co.uk dramatic sea stacks and now hosts Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Stornoway THE SHIP INN, LOW NEWTON weddings too, also offering its cliff-top room There can be few more idyllic seaside as a venue. www.marsden-grotto.co.uk villages than Low Newton by the Sea, its Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Newcastle THE MELVICH HOTEL whitewashed cottages surrounding the The Melvich Hotel’s lounge bar, west of village green, right on the beach, north Thurso, on the north coast of Caithness, STAINCLIFFE HOTEL of the romantic ruins of Dunstanburgh Seaton Carew’s most infamous recent overlooks the golden sand of Melvich beach, Castle. The Ship Inn stands on that green resident is the back-from-the-dead the Pentland Firth and the Orkney Islands and owner Christine Forsyth and daughter canoeist, John Darwin. His legacy lives on beyond. is locally sourced and the Hannah have earned a formidable reputa- in the fine dining Darwin Room and The beef and lamb are from local farms. Lunches tion for their food, microbrewery and live Canoe Bar at the recently refurbished and evening menu, while the recently music. Lobster fresh from the bay, but Staincliffe, now branded as a boutique refurbished seaside hotel caters for surfers, you may need to book! hotel on a coastline where such monikers birdwatchers, fishers and those just happy to www.shipinnnewton.co.uk enjoy the location. www.melvichhotel.co.uk are applied sparingly. The new look venue Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Newcastle Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Wick and its three eateries have been well received and you may see seals off the ROBINSON CRUSOE’S sandy beach, which also boasts a SAND DOLLAR CAFÉ If your idea of a real beach café is one petrified forest. www.staincliffehotel.co.uk Aberdeen’s Beach Esplanade is home to the with sand at the door and waves within a Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Durham Tees Valley Sand Dollar Café – not quite on the beach, few metres, look no further than Robinson but so highly spoken of for its daytime buzz Crusoe’s, on classy Tynemouth’s blue flag and evening bistro chic that it deserves Longsands, hugely popular with everyone THE SHIP INN, SALTBURN inclusion. All-day breakfasts and Belgian from walkers, to surfers and beach There can be few more wholesome waffles with maple syrup get top marks. footballers. Crusoe’s is always buzzing places to end a bracing beach walk than www.sanddollarcafe.com and the food ranges from wholesome to by the open fires of the Ship Inn, at Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Aberdeen eclectic. In the evening, Crusoe’s Saltburn, a Victorian resort, boasting cliff becomes a venue for birthdays, weddings lift and a pier from which you get great INVERSNECKY CAFÉ and general knees-ups. views of the surfers at play. The Ship is in To add beach views to your Aberdeen www.robinsoncrusoes.co.uk the original of Old Saltburn, seaside eating experience, the Inversnecky Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Newcastle and dates back certainly to the 16th Café sits right on Sea Beach and brings with century. Fresh local produce, including it history, tradition and a great back story. It crab. www.saltburnbysea.com/html/ was conceived by Lui Vicca, an Italian MARSDEN GROTTO Marsden Grotto, at South Shields, claims old-saltburn.html (no dedicated pub immigrant, in the early 20th century. His son, to be the only restaurant and bar in a cave website at present) Peter, adopted the Inversnecky name in the in all of Europe – an epithet we can neither Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Durham Tees Valley 1920s, after a fictional village created by uphold nor decry. Undisputable is that the comedian Harry Gordon at the nearby Gaiety beach-level terrace and façade give THE SANDSIDE CAFÉ Theatre. Run today by Lui’s great grandson, access to the grotto itself, housing a The Sandside Café, at Sandsend, just Martin. Expect to see Aberdeen FC players. gastropub, offering fresh seafood. The north of Whitby, does precisely what it www.inversnecky.co.uk grotto is accessed via steep stairs down says on the tin and, unusually for this Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Aberdeen the cliff, or by lift, and its rooms comprise stretch of coast, can offer adjacent Hive Beach Cafe, Chesil Bank, renowned for its terrific views as well as its equally impressive food (left )

parking, as well as outdoor tables, great THE BEACH CAFÉ, WINTERTON lemon sole and monkfish cheek curry. views and fab food. It’s all too easy to The Beach Café at Winterton recently Mark Hix himself does monthly Kitchen drive through Sandsend en route to reopened after a total refurbishment and is Table cookery classes here and at his Whitby, with its abbey and picturesque well placed for the dunes, which are a Charmouth home. harbour, but this arty village, is actually a conservation area and Area of www.hixoysterandfishhouse.co.uk bit of a gem. www.sandsidecafe.co.uk Outstanding Natural Beauty. Home bakery Nearest Eastern Airways airports – Southampton Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Durham Tees and full English breakfast from early in the and Bristol Valley morning. Plus water bowls for dogs! Colony of seals not far to the north. CHIVES CAFÉ AND DELI RICHIE’S www.winterton-on-sea.net Chives Café and Deli is dedicated to Richie’s, at Bridlington’s South Beach, is Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Norwich bringing exciting fresh food to the harbour very much in the traditional beach café village of Watchet. Home-made bread mould and, indeed, claims to be the pudding, crumbles, quiches, soups and “home of the scone”. The 2011 menu is South of England more, plus an extensive selection of West adding more exotic fare and a range of Country cheeses. Free Wi-Fi – and just new dishes to the traditional café metres from the harbour and beach. favourites. HIVE BEACH CAFÉ http://chives-deli.co.uk/Chives_Cafe_Deli www.cafeonbridlingtonbeach.co.uk Hive Beach Café, on Chesil Bank, near Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Bristol Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Humberside Bridport, offers cracking views of Lyme Bay, complemented by a wide range of BEACH RESTAURANT local foods and fish, including shellfish Cleethorpes’ art deco Beach Restaurant and spider crabs off the neighbouring Wales has been on the go for seven years and beach, brown crabs from Lyme Bay and houses the eponymous restaurant hand-dived scallops, when available. BOOFY’S CHIP SHOP downstairs and the Beach Steak House There’s an extensive patio with awnings Boofy’s Chip Shop, on Barry Island, west and al fresco dining, upstairs. Basic and you’ll find accolades for this one of Cardiff, finds its way into our collection daytime fare with more elaborate evening abound, including the very choosy and by virtue of being the chippy of choice of menus. www.beachrestaurant.info stylish adherents of Mr and Mrs Smith’s TV’s Gavin and Stacey. Expect to bump Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Humberside boutique hotels website and blog. into people doing the rounds of Gavin and www.hivebeachcafe.co.uk Stacey locations! Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Southampton http://miniurl.com/107679 (no dedicated East Anglia website) HIX OYSTER AND FISH HOUSE Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Cardiff We bend the rules slightly to include Hix BEACH CAFÉ, WELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA Oyster and Fish House, not on the beach, CASTELLAMARE The new Beach Café at Wells-next-the- but overlooking the harbour at Lyme There’s no shortage of eateries on Sea is backed by mature pine woods and Regis. Fantastic panoramic views across ’s Mumbles peninsula, but few is but a stone’s throw from the beach. It the Jurassic coast make this one of the can match the views from Castellamare, at offers fresh local produce, tasty snacks most picturesque spots to enjoy fresh the point and overlooking Bracelet Bay. À and light meals. There’s a wood-burning seafood. The focus is on sourcing and la carte Italian with lunchtime specials. stove for colder days. www.holkham.co.uk doing as little to it as possible so that www.castellamare.co.uk Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Norwich flavour speaks for itself. Example menu Nearest Eastern Airways airport – Cardiff features whole cooked Dorset Crab with homemade mayonnaise, whole grilled 49 THE LAST WORD with Harry Pearson SUPER DADS AT SIXES AND SEVENS

In April I went to cricket nets for the first have used a fence paling and still time in 25 years. I’ve been recruited to outscored the rest of us. Kumar was 15, play for the Third XI of a local village club. “HIS FOOTWORK Super Alan was 50. “It’s dads and their lads,” the skipper At the time I couldn’t understand why said. “A way of getting the youngsters a WAS SO LEADEN IT Super Alan wasted so much money on game in a fun, non-competitive WAS A BRAIN kit. Now I am 50 myself and I can see that environment.” what was going on was a variation of My Judging by the kit the dads were wearing DAMAGE RISK TO Dad’s First Law Of Sports Cars. My Dad’s at the first net practice I’d judge some of First Law Of Sports Cars runs thus: A) them hadn’t quite heard the “non- THE UNDER-SEVENS” When you are young you cannot afford a competitive” bit. There were acres of sports car. B) When you are middle-aged expensive willow and whites so new and you can afford a sports car but you can’t shiny you practically needed sunglasses have replaced the manufacturer’s logo buy one because the children and dog to look at them. with a notice reading, “Can you come would not fit in it. C) When you are old you back on Tuesday?” On the odd can afford a sports car but your reactions I recognised this instantly as a occasions when Super Alan actually and eyesight are so shot you can never phenomenon I call the Super Alan Effect. struck the ball it made a weird metallic drive it at more than 37mph. (My Dad’s The Super Alan Effect is named after an squeak like somebody pulling a rusty Second Law Of Sports Cars, incidentally, old team-mate of mine, Super Alan nail from a gatepost with a claw- states that you will always find yourself Smidgen. Super Alan was a man in thrall hammer, and dribbled shamefacedly stuck behind C) when you are on your to sporting technology. At the start of away to backward point. way to the airport and late for your flight.) every season he would arrive with a whole bag full of the latest clobber, all of it Standing in stark contrast to Super Alan The older you get, the more time ravages apparently about to transform his game. was Kumar. Kumar was pipe-cleaner your sporting ability and the more cash thin and always wore a dark blue sun you have to spend on equipment you Down the years Super Alan had bats with hat. Standing in the field he looked like a think will compensate. Of course, being a scoop out of the back, bats with sloping garden cane with a plant pot over it. Yet aware of the Super Alan Effect is no shoulders, bats with two scoops out of when he stood at the wicket it didn’t protection against it. That is why I recently the back, bats with powerspots, bats with matter that his limbs were like knotted invested a three-figure sum in some three scoops out of the back and bats string and that his bat was a gnarled amazing new cricket boots. “I reckon with with replaceable edges. None of them did and worn veteran, unmarked save for a these on,” I said to a mate, “I’ll probably him any good at all. This was not the fault barely traceable imprint of the name be as quick as Jimmy Anderson.” of the equipment. It was the fault of Super Jack Hobbs. When he cut, his wrists Alan. “You may be right,” he replied, “But only if whirred and the ball flew to the he’s walking and you’re on the bus.” Super Alan was rubbish. If he’d bought a boundary like a rocket-propelled bat with four middles he’d never have grenade. When he drove through the found any of them. His footwork was so covers leather struck willow with a Harry Pearson’s Slipless In Settle – A Slow Turn Around Northern Cricket is the 2011 MCC/Cricket leaden it was a brain damage risk to the “puck” as sweet and soft as love’s first Society Book of the Year and the British Sports

© Mark Stay/istock Mark © under-sevens, his timing so off he should kiss. His timing was so perfect he could Book Awards Cricket Book of the Year 50 DESTINATION OFFSHORE EUROPE A SUPPLEMENT PRODUCED FOR EASTERN AIRWAYS IN ASSOCIATION WITH SPE OFFSHORE6th–8th September EUROPE 2011| Aberdeen 2011 | UK

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for companies involved gas inthe UKoil, sectors and energy This supplement is supported by hore Europe 2011 Europe. by participatingfullyatOffshore the future oftheglobalindustry to utilisetheopportunitysecure development, andIurge everyone wonderful historyoftechnological The upstream industryhas a issues. convention anddiscussthese and frontiers, itmustchallenge and developingnewterritories as wellsucceedinexploring smart andsustainablesupply, the industryistoprovide asafe, design, staffing andoperations.If into account,intermsoffacility factor issuesthatmustbetaken onshore andoffshore, are human running through allouractivities, knowledge required. Ofcourse, as wellthenewscienceand technical andlogisticalpressures, the challenge of overcoming today’s The upstream industryisfacedwith sustainable supplyforthefuture. is toestablishasafe,smartand the ideasneededifindustry debateandchallenge to learn, It willbetheindustry’s opportunity Safe, Smart,SustainableSupply. is whywehavechosenSecuring theme fortheyearshouldbe.That lot ofdiscussionsaboutwhatthe As anexecutiveteamwehada going tofollow. and decideontheroadmap weare all thestakeholdersinoneplace the challengesare, andthenget

NOF Energy,NOF the leading business development organisation 6th–8th September2011|6th–8th Aberdeen|UK vertising: Liz Reekie Reekie Liz Advertising: Allen Barbara : Design Abbott Stan : Publisher Durham, 5JZ.Me,PityDH1 PublishedGravityAirwaysEasternMagazines,byfor AbbeyBusinessCentre, © June-September 2011. www.easternairways.com www.easternairways.com 2011. June-September © 1477-3031 : ISSN West Normanton, YorksWebLtd, OffsetAcorn : Print e-mail: [email protected] Commercial Director, Easte team atstand2C20. Airways Do comeandseetheEastern get thedateinyourdiary. showcase eventandencourageyouto and debateaheadoftheSeptember We hopeitwillstimulatethought bring youthispreview supplement. European conference andexhibition,to Europe 2011,theindustry’s premier to workinpartnershipwithOffshore Airways So itisnaturalforEastern exploration areas. often seenfulfillingcharterstonew base inShetland,andouraircraft are the Scatstahelicopterembarkation the shuttleservicefrom Aberdeen to We are verywellknowntothoseusing management. varying from offshore workerstosenior Norway, servemanyintheindustry, oftheUK,andourlinksto all corners Our networkoffrequent flightsfrom of Aberdeen thananyothercarrier. to andfrom theUK’s offshore capital We havemore routes andmore flights together. critical inbringingtheindustry’s people Airwaysandsoourroleas Eastern is so closelyconnectedwiththeindustry make thingshappen.Nootherairlineis about thepeoplewhoworkinitand The offshore industryisverymuch M trends and opportunities. and learnexperiences about future offshore industry to share in the dynamic global make turn the wheels occasion for all those who Offshore Europegreat isa Telephone: ESSAGE FROM KAYFROM RYAN ESSAGE www.gravitymagazines.com Tel: +44 (0)191 383 2838. Tel:www.gravitymagazines.com383 (0)191 +44

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To find out more about Technip and its projects, please visit: www.technip.com who require bothstabilityand certainty remain an attractivebaseforinvestors “It isvitalthatthe UKcontinentalshelf will haveonmature fields. recent taxincrease and theimpactit isthe butmostconcerning downturn, two years,mainlyduetotheeconomic aspects havechangedoverthe last and astrong financialrating.Allthese tax regime, goodaccess to capital we didsoonthebasisofastable ago, said:“Whenweentered theUK moved intotheNorthSeathree years National Energy Company, which Bratani, theUKarmofAbuDhabi Leo Koot,ChiefExecutiveofTaqa volatile foreign energy supplies.” Sea alsoreduces ourdependency on “Maximising thebenefitsofNorth anywhere intheworld. presence andcanchoosetoinvest oil companieshaveaninternational mustrememberGovernment that development intheNorthSea.The which willpotentiallyjeopardise future delivered withoutanyreal consultation, “This wasanillthought-outtax, and timeagain? what istostopitdoingthesametime emphatically statingthatitwouldn’t, candothisonceafter government its commitmenttothesector–ifa and confidence intheGovernment the financialimplications;itisabout “The issueisnotsomuchabout isatanall-timelow.the Government confidence andtheindustry’s trustof has hadahugeimpactoninvestor the sector... ” its commitment to Government and confidence inthe it isabout implications; the financial so much about “ The issue is not COLLIER: BOB investment. ” oftheir cycle life overcertainty the stability and requirewho both base for investors remain an attractive UK continental shelf “ It that isvital the LEO KOOT: indicated manytimesin thelead-up had said thattheGovernment of industrybody OilandGasUK, Malcolm Webb, ChiefExecutive down.” basis ofbuyingwhenthemarket is aggressive acquisitionstrategyonthe tax riseleadingtoanevenmore prices dropping asaresult ofthe stated publiclythattheyseeasset “Several companieshavealready for sometime. and willnotbeinataxpayingposition large taxlossesontheirbalancesheets because thesecompaniesare carrying situation. Ironically itisperhaps see opportunitiesoutofthislatest companies intheNorthSeawhich “That said,there are oilandgas day afterthetaxrise. drop betweentenand15percentthe of theNorthSeabasedindependents “We sawtheshare priceofalmostall not distinguishbetweenthetwo. than oilprices,yetthenewtaxdoes as gaspricestypicallyare muchlower gas projects, whichwillbeworsthit of day. Thisisespeciallytrueofnatural off theground willneverseethelight “The real worryisthatprojects notyet reviewed. had yetbeenpulled,allwere being development projects and,whilenone working onsevenNorthSeaoiland Bond Pearce, saidhiscompanywas and gaspartnerfornationallawfirm Kenny Paton,Aberdeen-based oil over thelifecycleoftheirinvestment.” light ofday. ” neverwill see the yet offtheground is that projects not “ The real worry PATON:KENNY energy sector. whowrites regularlyjournalist onthe Graeme Smithis anAberdeen-based but that’s anotherstory… surrounding decommissioningrelief – resolve thelong-termuncertainty needsto Beyond that,government supplementary corporationtax.” PRT ontopofcorporation taxandthe mature, pre-1993 fields,whichpaythe prospects westofShetland andin introduced, suchasforoil andgas be increased andnewallowances “The existingfieldallowancesshould oil andgasdevelopments,”hesaid. re-incentivise investment intheUK’s “Second, weneedtofindmeans to oil. – yetgasbearssimilarextractioncosts which theindustrysaysrequires review the suggested$75/bbltriggerprice– the UKremain substantiallybelow the taxmovebecausegaspricesin has beenparticularlydamagedby 46 percentofUKproduction and treatment ofgas,whichrepresents The keypointstabledare thefiscal currently intheNetherlands.” to usthebestwayforward, asisdone consultation onfiscalchangeseems hesaid“Advance Government,” trust betweentheindustryand that wemustrebuild thedamaged “Indeed, itismore important,given that needhadnotchanged. industry’s needforfiscalstabilityand to theBudgetthatitunderstood developments. ” UK’s and oil gas investment inthe re-incentivise find means to “ We need to WEBB: MALCOLM

vii OFFSHORE EUROPE 2011: INVESTMENT MARK THOMAS LOOKS FORWARD TO SPE OFFSHORE EUROPE 2011, WHERE DELEGATES WILL THRASH OUT THE BIG ISSUES

The offshore oil and gas industry is in a continual cycle of change, constantly evolving and reinventing itself. This is a process created through necessity, as one of the world’s true global industries tackles the challenge of finding oil and gas reserves and going into produc- tion at new frontiers at a time when energy demand continues to soar. Long gone are the days when an oil and gas exhibition and confer- ence like SPE Offshore Europe in Aberdeen, Scotland, would focus purely on one region such as the North Sea or one particular area of offshore technology. Likewise, few are the operating companies and contractors, large or small, who do not now have portfolios of projects in all four corners of the world. Today, the event, like the industry it showcases, is a global affair with visitors from more than 100 countries expected to attend and exhib- SECURING SAFE, SMART, SUSTAINABLE SUPPLY

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SECURING SAFE, SMART, SUSTAINABLE SUPPLY iting companies from countries including Brazil, Canada, China, He went on to stress that the industry is also faced with the chal- Saudi Arabia, Nigeria and Australia. The last show in 2009 broke lenge of overcoming today’s technical and logistical pressures, all-time attendance records, with nearly 50,000 people passing as well as the new science and knowledge required. He said: “Of through its doors, and featuring the largest-ever exhibition area, course running through all our activities, onshore and offshore, with 1,421 companies participating. This reflects the international are human factor issues that must be taken into account, in standing of the show, as well as the role that Aberdeen plays as terms of facility design, staffing and operations. If the industry is the energy capital of Europe. to provide a safe, smart and sustainable supply, as well as suc- ceed in exploring and developing new territories and frontiers, it The fact that it is a global industry, however, means that the must challenge convention and discuss these issues.” upstream oil and gas business right now is faced with challenges of enormous scale that it must tackle if it is to provide safe, smart He added that the industry “has a wonderful history of techno- and sustainable supplies, while also exploring and developing logical development” and urged it to utilise the opportunity to secure the future of the global industry by participating in the new territories and frontiers. And it must do this in an often highly event’s technical proceedings. volatile environment, both in terms of the civil unrest in some Middle East and North African (MENA) countries, for example, as well as the volatility of the oil price. UP FOR DISCUSSION The main theme for SPE Offshore Europe 2011’s conference is Some of the world’s leading oil industry chiefs will take part in a Securing Safe, Smart, Sustainable Supply. The Chairman of this series of plenary and panel discussions at the conference. The September’s event is Samir Brikho, who is Chief Executive of opening plenary session is entitled Managing Complexity, while AMEC plc. In many ways, the oil price volatility and the MENA planned panel discussion sessions include Operating Models for situation further enhance the global relevance of the main theme, the Future, Ageing and Life Extension of Offshore Installations, which was actually chosen last year. Environment – Oil Spill Prevention and Response, Deepwater – Smart Operations for Safe Supply, and Achieving Emissions Mr Brikho said that recent events including last year’s oil spill in Reductions – The Upstream Challenge. the Gulf of Mexico had provided a reminder of the importance of health, safety, security and environmental issues in address- On a more technical level, the conference programme catego- ing the significant and often unique challenges of operations in ries include the following: Facilities and Infrastructure; New ever-increasing water depths. The Chairman described the bien- Well Technology; Reservoir Management; Health, Safety and Environment; Exploration; and Carbon Reduction – the Upstream nial conference and exhibition held in Europe’s energy capital Contribution. Alongside this technical programme will be a series of Aberdeen as “the industry’s opportunity to learn, debate and of daily Topical Lunches and Business Breakfasts. challenge the ideas needed if the industry is to establish a safe, smart and sustainable supply for the future”. SPE Offshore Europe 2011 runs from September 6-8 and is the >> ix Fly easternairways.com FPAL is the direct route to business in the Oil and Gas Sector

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Eastern Airways Inflight Magazine (offshore) (122x180mm) May 2011.indd 1 26/05/2011 10:03:31 Fly An entire hall will be dedicated to the technologies and water depths ranging down towards 3,000 metres (9,843ft).developments brought onstream or currently underwaybarrels/day in by 2015. Recent advances have seen deepwaterof the total global offshore figure, adding a forecastdeepwater 2.8 oilmillion production will increase from six toThe nine International per cent Energy Agency conservatively estimates that independents. western supermajors, but also for small and medium-sizedoffshore reserves, not only for national oil companiesDeep waterand therefore represents a core area for Mexico,adding futurethe Mediterranean, South East Asia and Australasia.west coasts of Africa, as well as west of Shetland, accompaniedthe Gulf of by other significant discoveries off thesalt, east sandand and rocks in the Santos Basin. These havefrontier, been beneath 2,000 metres of water and 5,000every metres week, ofmost notably the giant finds in Brazil’sDeep sub-saltand ultra-deepwater discoveries are being made almost world’s oil and gas players. its status as a major platform in the growth strategiesto total of the US $167 billion between now and 2015, confirmingGlobal capital expenditure on deepwater projects is forecast water oil and gas to find future reserves. reflects the offshore industry’s increasing emphasisnew feature on deep for 2011, the Deep Water Zone, which directlyThis is why the show organisers have also launched a brand also brought to this forum. world. Equally, industry issues from elsewhere inplace the atworld the areshow have direct relevance for other partsinternational of the forum. Technologies and discussions– thatlike takethe industry – it continues its leadership roledecades as a oftruly the 70s, 80s and 90s, and now still evolvingyears, as growing alongside the North Sea industry in itsOffshore Europe has been running in Aberdeen for nearly 40 the Society of Petroleum Engineers (SPE). Partnership, a joint venture between Reed Exhibitionsand Ltd Conference and Centre is organised by The OffshoreThe Europeconference and exhibition at the Aberdeen Exhibitionlargest upstream oil and gas event outside North America. DEEP WATER DEEP ZONE easternairways.com For the latest information go to www.offshore-europe.co.uk nologies and expertise. dedicated to unmanned remote and autonomous vehicle Unmannedtech Underwater Vehicle Showcase (UUVS) pavillion,In addition, the OE Deep Water Zone will also feature the products and services. the world’s leading deepwater suppliers demonstratingBrazilian their deepwater industry, as well as exhibitsing by keymany manufacturers of and suppliers from the fast-expandingThere will also be a Brazil Pavillion (organised by IBP) featur ised by the EAGE. the Zone entirely dedicated to deepwater exploration,projects. organ There will also be a technical presentationbetween session now andin 2015, the vast majority in deepwaterBrazil, pre-Salt where capital expenditure of up to $54 billiondeep iswater forecast developments, which is leading the way offshoreThis will include presentations by Petrobras, a world-leader in European Association of Geoscientists and Engineers (SPE),(EAGE). the Society for Underwater Technology (SUT)and andBiofuels the Institute (IBP), the Society of Petroleumorganisations Engineers in the field, including the Brazilianments Petroleum, in the sector,Gas with content programmed by thethe opportunityleading to learn about some of the very latestand develop participate in panel discussions. This will givecal attendees presentation area, where experts will presentindustry case studies at this year’s event. It will feature a expertisededicated beingtechni employed by the exploration and production ENGINEERING COURSES? LOOKING FORINNOVATIVE or [email protected] www.newcastlecollege.co.uk To findoutmore informationgoto: wishing toenterthesubseaindustry asanengineer. for thosecurrently workingintheSubseasectororforthose our FoundationDegree inSubseaEngineeringisideal If youare lookingforaspecialisthigherlevelskilledcourse marine andautomotivetransport. composites andinnovativeweldingtechniquesforaeronautic, hydraulics andpneumatics.Plannedcoursesincludethoseon practice together. Courses currently offered intheCentre are on Airport, andformsaknowledgetransferhub,linkingtheory our successfulAviation AcademyatNewcastleInternational Newcastle College’s Centre ofExcellenceislocatednextto establishment ofaCentre ofExcellence. covers innovativemaintenance,adhesivebondingandthe in Belgium,Germany, NetherlandsandtheUKproject Region project calledPOYO—ThePortisYours. Withpartners Newcastle CollegeisapartnerintheInterreg 4BNorthSea - - - - -

xi OFFSHORE EUROPE 2011: PREVIEW Northern Norway’s Barents Sea is either the most significant development to hit Europe’s offshore energy sector since North Sea drillers hit oil more than 40 years ago… or it is the “dry hole capital of the world”, as some more pessimistic commentators suggest, says Stan Abbott. FRAGILE: thepotentiallyoil-richseas off theLufotenIslands over exploitation of reserves in the seas between when the country clarified an accord with Iceland remoter Arctic regions. That process began in 2009to iron out impediments to exploration in even Small surprise, then, that Norway has been working 200 billion barrels of oil. thinks the true figure could be double that, with aroundcent of natural gas liquids, or condensates – while undiscoveredBP oil, 30 per cent of natural gas and 20 theper world’s oil and gas reserves – 13 per cent of the Arctic regions contain a large proportion of Theall United States Geological Survey believes that and rich for ever. area a World Heritage Site to protect its naturalUnesco beauty has even hinted it might step in and make the current parliament, to 2013. start on an impact assessment for the lifetime of theexploration until at least 2013, while also delayinga anyblow this spring when the Government ruled out reserves (some 3.5 billion barrels in oil and gas),20 took per cent of Norway’s undiscovered oil and gas Lofoten and Vesteraalen Islands, estimated to containBut hopes that the seas off the astonishingly beautiful sovereign wealth fund outside the Middle East. eggs have given the country the world’s largest quest to extend the life of the goose whose golden have presented the country’s greatest hope in theas 50 per cent since its 2000 peak, the northern seas With Norway’s oil output having declined by as much and gas reserves. downward revision in estimates of Norway’s totalwith oil recent dry wells having prompted a significant crossed that Statoil’s success marks a change in theluck, Barents Sea and the industry is keeping its fingersThis year is seeing a record number of wells drilled in in the country’s remoter regions, not least the inexorablefar north. process of economic and population declinea double plus, helping also to bring a pause to the And for the Norwegian state, improving prospects are plant may be required after 2013. Hammerfest, where there are hopes that a second which supplies the Melkøya liquefied gas plant, near The find is 100 kms north of the Snøhvit gas field, reservoir properties, and a 33-metre gas column. 90-metre oil column, with high-quality oil and good wells, announced its Skrugard prospect had found a Statoil, which has drilled three quarters of those 80major boost in April, when Norway’s state-owned The glass-half-full side of the argument received a afflicting the industry off Europe’s shores. optimistic beacon amid general exploration gloom Norwegian Seas together comprise perhaps the most And yet, for all the disappointment, the Barents and barrels of oil and 168 billion cubic metres of gas. amounted at the start of the year to just 195 millionreserves in the Barents Sea, north of Hammerfest, Despite the drilling of more than 80 wells, proven >>

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Visit us at Offshore Europe 2011 from the 6th to the 8th September © rogeluft / Fotolia.com Fly prices. project remains delayed by low gas This technologically challenging and distant offshore field, Shtokman. Russia's Gazprom to develop a large Now Statoil has signed up to help western Barents field, White. already started production in the sector, though the Norwegians have more oil and gas than the Norwegian Barents Sea, probably contains far Geologists say the eastern, Russian, Europe's northern continental shelf. zones extending to the edge of the Arctic Ocean into clear economic dividing the Barents Sea and part of resolved a 40-year dispute over now a year since Norway and Russian exploration further east, where it is There is more likelihood of early active volcano. only and the world’s most northerly witnessed the eruption of Norway’s sixth century, by an Irish monk who epithet was actually coined back in the exploration”, though the Gates of Hell the prospect candidly as “extreme Petroleum Directorate, describes Bente Nyland, head of the Norwegian remain at best lukewarm. of Hell” in the Norwegian sector the desire to look for oil at the “Gates though take-up has been limited and was first to offer exploration rights, economic boost more than Norway, Iceland, which could probably use the island, annexed by Norway in 1926. Iceland’s north coast and Jan Mayen successful quest to see the Northern Lights. successful questtoseetheNorthern author BillBryson,whospentsomedaysthere inhisultimately town waspainstakinglyrebuilt andultimatelyputonthemapby submarine base,attackingAlliedsupplyconvoystoRussia.The the endofWorld War II.Ithadpreviously beentheGermans’ Hammerfest wasdestroyed byretreating Nazioccupierstowards municipalities inFinnmarkare witnessing. andpopulationdeclinemostother the economicdownturn boom andnewoptimisminHammerfest,starkcontrastto Norwayandhasresultedin thehistoryofnorthern aneconomic The Melkøyagasplantisthemostexpensiveconstructionproject HAMMERFEST BOOM HAMMERFEST easternairways.com trade in the Nordic countries. Airways Magazine and a consultant in Stan Abbott is Publisher of Eastern until 2020. Norway’s production at current levels meeting its aspiration of maintaining Statoil continues to be challenged in With the decline in the North Sea, discoveries have been downgraded. in the related Gro and Victoria in Europe. But estimates of reserves Lange, the third largest gas deposit Trondheim, is home to Shell’s Ormen The Norwegian Sea, north of pumping in 2013. meanwhile, is scheduled to start barrels of oil. Eni’s Goliat oilfield, reserves equivalent to 200 million prospect, estimating recoverable the Aker Barents drilling at the Heilo Suez, is bullish about prospects for partner in the consortium led by GDF Petroleum. Rocksource, a 20 per cent GDF Suez, Dong Energy and Lundin Barents Sea, besides Statoil, are Total, Companies actively drilling in the metres. than 30 per cent, to 570 billion cubic Norway’s total gas reserves by more downward revision of estimates of the dry wells last year that prompted the North Sea. It was the drilling of 16 out to be dry as did two wells in the wells drilled in the Barents Sea turned just 12 last year. However, the first four Arctic seas this year, compared with many as 22 wells will be drilled in the The bigger picture, however, is that as challenging environments,” Poxon said. to access remaining reserves from increasingly future of the oil and gas industry and its ability to technology development is crucial to the believe that a collaborative, global approach “Looking at the bigger picture, I strongly Allan Ltd. and Marine Engineering company, Robert submitted by Canadian Naval Architect to develop an ice strengthened lifeboat, ITF is also working on a proposal for a project he said. exploration and production in Arctic areas,” technology challenges associated with fascinating insight into just one of the many by the possibilities: “This project gives a ITF Managing Director Neil Poxon is excited be adapted.” already in use within the industry could is really needed and how the technology optimum solution, looking at what information we want to do here is focus down on the potentially run into millions of pounds. “What in SEA’s aerospace division, but the cost could Fromberg, ground systems business manager, a radar system to detect sea ice, says Alan It would be relatively straightforward to design ice approaching an exploration platform. the challenge of detecting and classifying sea of applications. The current project focuses on in designing and building radars with a range Assessment Ltd (SEA). SEA has a background being undertaken by Systems Engineering & RAIDACT is a six-month feasibility project ice and oil and gas exploration and production. tackle some of the challenges relating to sea two joint industry projects (JIPs) that aim to the Arctic frontier and has recently launched allow the industry to venture further beyond ITF has identified technology needs that will global operators and service companies. for-profit technology facilitator owned by 27 Batchelor, Technology Author at ITF, the not- the success of Arctic operations, writes Sheila Funding industry research will be essential to EXPLORING NEW FRONTIERS “Gates ofHell”northIceland MinistryIndustry of March2007

xv OFFSHORE EUROPE 2011: NORWAY

UPDATE

BRAZIL: LAND OF OPPORTUNITY Brazil is the word on the lips of many in the offshore oil industry. But talking about the opportunities 200 miles off Rio de Janeiro can be like discussing a forbidden topic, raising as it does not just excitement, but a significant degree of trepidation. For this is more than just a deep water opportunity: Brazil’s oceanic oil reserves lie beneath not just more than 2,000 metres of water, but a further 3,000 metres or rock and then 2,000 metres of salt, the crystallised remains of a one-time ocean. NASA’s Terra satellite captured this image off the Brazil’s sub-salt reserves are a boon for a rapidly Mississippi Delta in May, industrialising country already blessed with phenomenal 2010. Sunlight illuminates hydroelectric opportunities and which prides itself on the lingering oil slick basing its industrial growth on such “green” energy. NASA/GSFC, MODIS The sub-salt fields are thought to contain more than 13 billion barrels of oil and, although Brazil’s state-controlled DEEP DIFFERENCES Petrobas is bullish about the recovery timescales, the geological challenges are significant, not to mention the The Deepwater Horizon disaster caused the loss of 11 environmental concerns in the wake of the Deepwater lives and resulted in a very large oil spill. It also highlighted Horizon tragedy. fundamental differences in the way that safety and risk are approached in the American and European operational and Notwithstanding that Brazil is insisting that Petrobas be legal frameworks, writes Andy Bolsover, Safety and Risk the sole operator in the sub-salt reserves and that it must Product Manager at Bureau Veritas, the regulations compli- also have a major stake in any consortium arrangement, ance specialist. Now there are signs that future regulations the opportunities remain as immense as the challenges. may draw from the non-prescriptive European approach. British companies have already shown a keen interest in An early reaction of the US Department of the Interior was to Brazilian developments and NOF Energy, with member issue a directive to improve the safety of offshore oil and gas interests across the energy spectrum, is among those that drilling operations. Following the historical pattern of safety regulation in the United States, this directive was highly prescriptive. A prescriptive approach makes legal requirements trans- parent; any operator that follows the mandated actions is certain to discharge its legal responsibilities. But prescriptive approaches lack flexibility and can not be expected to adapt to novel situations, with different types of threat. Under a prescriptive regime, the regulator tries to create regulations that address any situation. So, who takes responsibility for future incidents that are not anticipated by regulations? Outside the US, the trend is towards a performance-based, or “goal-setting”, approach which sets general principles and safety goals that remain clear at all times, and leaves the operator with the responsibility of achieving those goals. Performance-based approaches have been adopted by regulators in UK, Norway, Netherlands, Denmark, Australia and New Zealand, and have also been voluntarily adopted by national oil corporations in Abu Dhabi and Kuwait. visits.” our memberssecure newopportunitiesthrough future members toBrazilandweare investingfurtherbyhelping “NOF Energy hasfacilitatedsuccessfulmarketvisitsfor contracts inthesub-saltreserves oftheAtlanticshelf. coast makesthemextremely wellplacedtosecure new difficult watersoftheNorthSeaandoff theNorwegian experience ofBritishcompaniesinexploitingtheoften exciting opportunitiesintheglobalenergy marketandthe NOF Energy, added:“Brazilpresents someof themost Joanne Leng,MBE,Director ofBusinessDevelopmentfor success.” Brazil withNOFEnergy inJune2011willbringthesame multi-core products andIamhopingasecondvisit to “This ultimatelyledtoanorder worth$0.25millionfor products. up withseveralcompaniesthatwere interested in our with NOFEnergy, whichorganised thetrip,andmet Don Fenwick,SalesManager, said:“ItravelledtoBrazil a returnthisJune. worth $0.25millionoff thebackoffirstvisit,prompting the missionshaveproved extremely fruitful,withbusiness For Sunderland-basedHydraulic&Offshore SuppliesLtd, in October. October 2010andsixinJune2011isplanningathird NOF Energy hasconductedmissionsoftencompaniesin have takenUKcompaniesonexploratorytrademissions. global market.” energy “Brazil presents some ofthe most nofenergy.co.uk. Kristie Lengon+44(0)1913846464oremailkleng@ Brazil mission,inOctober2011,pleasecontact If youare interested injoiningNOFEnergy’s next partners andglobalpartners. and now consistsofover400members,strategic work hasmore thandoubledinthelastthree years of newbusinessinthelastthree years.Thenet- network ofmemberstosecure anadditional£140m NOF Energy hasassistedits shore renewables sectors. oil, gas,nuclearandoff- support organisation forthe NOF Energy isabusiness exciting inthe opportunities JOANNE LENG JOANNE

xix OFFSHORE EUROPE 2011: UPDATE We understand your deadlines are tight.

But because we know more about the 13,000 drilling guys in our database, we’ll find the right ones for you, quickly. www.atlanticresourcing.com/drilling Fly ENERGY DRIVEN CITY of the UKrecovery… and to ShireAberdeen City forward islooking abright as future akey driver Chris York at work improving coastal easternairways.com Project Director atthe recent All paths intheEnergetica corridor Above: SaraBudge,Energetica Energy eventinAberdeen its weightineconomic contribution,and The region isalready punchingabove by30percent. turnover growing foodanddrinkcompanies tourism revenues by50percent,and of lifesciencescompanies,boosting opportunities, doublingitsnumber added, bycapitalisingonall-energy growth of2.5percentin gross value The region isaimingtoachieve annual forefront ofnewfrontier developments. arena, where localcompaniesare atthe technology, particularly inthesubsea of theworld'sleadingoilandgas Houston. The region ishome tosome gas expertiseandcapabilityoutwith largest concentrationofoffshore oiland Aberdeen CityandShire boaststhe of projected newinvestment. energy stagewithmore than£1billion poised tocapture itsplaceontheworld City andShire isbuoyant,dynamicand drive theUKoutofrecession, Aberdeen one ofahandfulregions forecast to quality oflife,theUK’s sunniestcityand Ranked intheworld’s top100citiesfor dynamic organisations tostimulate world-class location thatwillattract efficiency. Itaimstobecomea the bestingreen energy andenergy and leisure destinationshowcasing – a30-mileenergy business, residential Another ambitiousproject isEnergetica be unveiledintheautumn.” underway withshort-listeddesignsto designcompetitionis an international right intheheartofcity, forwhich gardens, outdoorandindoor space – thevisiontocreate five acres ofnew being drivenbytheCityGarden Project “The regeneration ofour city centre is awaited bypass. road infrastructure includingthelong- transport network,whichincludesmajor “We are delivering afullyintegrated development partnership–said: – thepublic-privatesectoreconomic and Shire EconomicFuture (ACSEF) Tom Smith,chairmanofAberdeen City London intheUK,at£27,388perhead. in Scotland,andissecondonlyto now hasthehighestGross Value Added >>

xxi OFFSHORE EUROPE 2011: ABERDEEN collaboration, innovation, research and development in energy because of its low carbon principles, high quality design and superb leisure facilities within a beatiful natural, coastal environment. It will tap into this rich seam of knowledge, technology and commercial know-how. The marine renewable sector will be boosted by the construction of the first European Offshore Wind Deployment Centre, which has secured 40 million Euros of EU funding. Work has started on the five-star Trump golf resort. The development will comprise two golf courses, a 450-room hotel, conference centre, 36 villas and 950 holiday homes. Energy is only part of the region’s success story. In recent years there has been an increase in hotel, retail and Happy shoppers at Aberdeen’s Bon Accord centre leisure developments. New hotels include , Park Inn, Jury’s Inn, , Hilton Garden Hotel, as well as boutique offerings including The Rox, with an influx of new stores, including area is already known for its dramatic Bauhaus and Malmaison, with a Hotel du Scotland’s biggest Next, as well as top scenery and opportunities for outdoor Vin in the planning stages. names, such as Karen Millen, Swarovski, pursuits. The strengthened hotel and Hobbs, Jo Malone, Kurt Geiger, Radley leisure offering makes the region even ’s new £250 million Union and Phase 8. more attractive as a holiday destination, Square development, along with as well as a hub for the global energy significant investment at the city’s Bon Mr Smith added: “Aberdeen has industry.” Accord and St Nicholas Centres, has benefited from much needed investment transformed Aberdeen’s retail offering, in leisure and retail developments. The www.acsef.co.uk WE’RE NUTS ABOUT BRAZIL

In a world in which face-to-face meetings are more ready to look for business in areas continue to both maintain business relationships where they feel most comfortable. and to drive new business, the growth of travel Cronje sees an important ongoing role for the to emerging South American markets are a clear business travel agent in building the complex indication of where the smart money is headed. and often changing itineraries that pitching for That’s the view of Paul Cronje, left, General business in new markets can demand. “Changes Manager at Clyde Travel, which has offices in of plan are what happen in the business world Aberdeen, Glasgow, Southampton and Clydebank and you need people who know what they are and whose clients include many players in the doing to change things quickly. The technology offshore sector. “South America is the next big and the means do not now exist for non- one,” says Cronje. “You can see that from the specialists to do that.” sheer number of new routes being developed by So suggestions that video conferencing might the airline alliances.” spell the end of business travel are as wide of the The South American boom is driven, of course, mark as earlier ideas that the advent of internet in large measure by the promise of major growth booking would have a similar consequence. in offshore activity off Brazil. But optimism about “Quite a lot of customers have invested in various those prospects is not necessarily reflected in facilities, as have we, but it has not reduced the other emerging world markets, such as Africa. demand for travel for customer visits at all. Video “What stands out is that Luanda and Angola has conferencing is never going to be a replacement not come off in the predicted way: there is no for face-to-face meetings as people find the rush to get to Angola, so far as we can tell.” experience rather awkward – weird, even.” All of which would tend to suggest that people www.clydetravel.com HPHT Solutions Industry leading expertise in HP/HT field development

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