BUYING GUIDE JULY 2012 grape bunches ripening in the morning sun.

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s we get deeper into the summer season and the mercury climbs egon, Virginia and New York. With almost 150 Chardonnays reviewed for ever upward, we naturally turn to selections that offer a sense of this month’s Buying Guide, you’ll even discover selections from New Jer- A refreshment, trying desperately to beat the summer heat while still sey, Massachusetts, North Carolina and Ohio listed below. And with the quenching our thirst for good . While there are a plethora of options “drink local” mantra now being uttered from every corner of the world, available, made from countless varieties and produced all over the world, what better time to see what hidden gems lie in your own backyard. perhaps the most popular and patriotic selection is domestic Chardonnay. If you’re looking for something new to add to your summer white lineup, As California Editor Steve Heimoff describes in his “All-American we also reviewed over 50 South African Chenin Blancs this month to com- Chardonnay” feature on page 40, Americans have had a soft spot for this plement the tasting feature on page 52. If it’s been a while since you gave white variety for decades, although the relationship has been a somewhat this grape a try, then you’re in for a real surprise; the remarkable quality tumultuous, love-hate one. and diversity of this variety and the region that produces it so well will open But the tides have thankfully shifted yet again, and the ABC movement your eyes. And the best part? You won’t have to break the bank to splurge has now quieted down thanks to the skilled and controlled hands of qual- on some of the top-rated selections mentioned here. ity . Gone, or going, are the days of people declaring their dis- As always, though, be sure to check out our fully searchable database at like of the grape; we know now that the real key is identifying the style that buyingguide.winemag.com for thousands more reviews and recommen- suits your own personal preference. dations. While the main focus of the article is on California, there are beautiful Cheers! Chardonnays being produced in many states, including Washington, Or- —Lauren Buzzeo

CALIFORNIA Lynmar 2010 Monastery Chardonnay nearing 40 years of age, which may explain the concen- 94 (Russian River Valley). Lots of toasty new tration. —S.H. marks this Chardonnay, as well as bright, citrusy abv: 14.1% Price: $50 CHARDONNAY acidity. It’s young, vibrant and energetic, and undoubt- Freemark Abbey 2010 Chardonnay Failla 2010 Estate Chardonnay edly complex. Beginning with flavors of Meyer lemons, (Howell Mountain). Marked by crisp, (Sonoma Coast). Shows classic, full-throttle apricots and limes, it evolves in the glass with flavors of 93 99 zingy acidity that gives the lemon and lime fruit a notes of tropical and citrus fruits, pears and sweet green minerals, white flowers and honey. This should last six mouthwatering tartness, this voluminous Chardonnay is apples, combined with strong minerality and complex years or so. —S.H. 14.2% $70 perfect for drinking now, as a cocktail or with rich shell- layers of buttered toast, honey and creamy lees. The de- abv: Price: fish dishes. It’s really elegantly constructed and stylish, a scription alone hardly does justice to the wine’s beauty. Matanzas Creek 2010 Journey Chardon- great restaurant wine. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. The acidity is perfect, the oak deftly applied, the finish nay (Sonoma County). Expensive, yes, but abv: 13.5% Price: $40 long and completely satisfying. Ehren Jor- 94 very lovely and dramatic. Creamy and smooth in the dan suggests pairing it with simple fare like roast chick- mouth, this is perfectly perfectly dry, with rich notes La Crema 2009 Nine Barrel Chardonnay en and salted fingerling potatoes.Editors’ Choice. of honey, Mandarin oranges and sweet buttered toast, (Russian River Valley). For full review see —S.H. 93 girded with minerals. Shows control and precision. page 4. abv: 14.2% Price: $44 —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $75 Lynmar 2010 Susanna’s Vineyard Char- abv: 14.6% Price: $75 La Rochelle 2010 Ferrington Vineyard donnay (Russian River Valley). A splendid 96 Celani Family 2009 Chardon- Chardonnay (Anderson Valley). For full Chardonnay, rich, vital and elegant, with so many layers 93 nay (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4. review see page 5. of interest. Framed by a cut of brilliant acidity, it evolves 93 abv: 14.2% Price: $40 abv: 14.6% Price: $65 with complex flavors of citrus and tropical fruits, miner- als, flowers and honey, then finishes long and savory in Darioush 2009 Signature Chardonnay Ojai 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard Char- a swirl of spices. Oak adds the perfect touch of buttered (Napa Valley). You can taste the oak and lees donnay (Santa Maria Valley). A beautiful toast, while the wine is a study in the creamy effect of 93 93 influence in this rich, full-bodied Chardonnay. With a Chardonnay, dry, silky and modest in alcohol. It’s rich in sur lie aging. It’s perfectly dry on the finish. —S.H. creamy mouthfeel, it gets serious on the midpalate, with oak-inspired tropical fruit, peach and Meyer lemon fruit abv: 14.5% Price: $50 flavors of buttery peach, orange and nectarine fruit. flavors, girded with a tangy minerality. Will be great Outstanding and elegant. —S.H. with a mushroom risotto or something lobster based. Lynmar 2010 Quail Hill Vineyard Char- abv: 14.5% Price: $43 Editors’ Choice. —S.H. donnay (Russian River Valley). A bone dry 95 abv: 13.5% Price: $28 wine that’s rich in steely minerals and wonderful acid- Donum Estate 2009 Estate Grown Char- ity. It offers the elegance and complexity of a great pre- donnay (Carneros). A very fine Chardonnay, Stonestreet 2010 Broken Road Chardon- mier cru, with tantalizing traces of sweet Meyer lemons, 93 bone dry and acidic, with a powerful streak of mineral- nay (Alexander Valley). For full review see limes and exotic spices. The oak is subtle, lending aro- 93 ity that makes it rather austere. Yet there are power- page 5. mas and flavors of buttered toast, while its time spent ful pineapple and orange flavors. It’s clearly elegant and abv: 14.5% Price: $40 on the lees contributes notes of sour cream. A fabulous complex, and tight enough to age for six or so years. success for this or any . —S.H. The vines from which this Chardonnay was sourced are abv: 14.3% Price: $40 Continued on Page 14

2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new- release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman Goldschmidt 2006 Plus Game Ranch Maison Bleue 2010 Gravière Upland in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, 98 Single Vineyard Selection Cabernet Sau- 96 Vineyard Mourvèdre-- Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor vignon (Oakville). The 2006 vintage was erratic, but (Snipes Mountain District). Clover, white pepper, Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Nick Goldschmidt has pulled a rabbit out of a hat with and a whiff of animal make this blend of 75% Mourvè- Rosa. this fabulously complex and rewarding 100% Cabernet. dre, 20% Syrah and 5% Grenache compelling now, but If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s It’s classic Oakville, dry, tannic and elegant, and the way it’s certainly a wine to cellar. The aromas move through initials appear following the note. When no initials appear the blackberry and black currant flavors marry the new a spectrum of flower, spice, fruit and animal. It already following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect oak is simply wonderful. The Game Ranch Vineyard has displays tremendous length and superb aging potential. the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits been source to some of Goldschmidt’s greatest Caber- Cellar Selection. —P.G. Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by nets over the past decade. This is one of those abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Lauren Buzzeo. that’s compelling to drink now, but should evolve over Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the next 10–15 years. —S.H. the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content abv: 14.5% Price: $150 cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying - tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. CREO 2007 (Chalk Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Mt. Brave 2008 (Mount Veeder). A 95 Hill). This is quite an impressive Cabernet. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. tremendous achievement in Merlot. The vine- The wine rivals an intense Napa Cabernet, with it’s Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. 98 Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. yard, around 1,600 feet up on Mt. Veeder, is now owned tannic structure and its bold flavors of blackberry, black Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; by the Jackson family, and the winemaker is Chris Car- currant and licorice that have been exquisitely oaked. often good value. penter, who oversees Cardinale. In fact, this Mer- It’s elegantly drinkable now despite the power, but Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances. lot bears an uncanny resemblance to Cardinale in the should comfortably glide through at least the next eight Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 dramatically ripe, sweet fruit and superb, tannin-based years. —S.H. points) are not reviewed. structure. It’s 100% Merlot, with hefty yet balanced abv: 14.8% Price: $75 SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS alcohol, and the wine easily handles the 85% new Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent French oak in which it was aged for 22 months. Edi- quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any tors’ Choice. —S.H. price with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible abv: 15.2% Price: $60 and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag. La Jota Vineyard 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting 95 gnon (Howell Mountain). The tannins are so & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@ fierce on this baby Cabernet that they effectively lock it wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted Jarvis 2006 Estate Grown Cave Ferment- down and make it tough to drink now. Yet there’s a fabu- for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted 96 ed Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa lous core of blackberries that are rich, ripe and intense. will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission Valley). This reserve tastes oakier and stronger than Everything about it suggests ageability. Give it at least forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site. Jarvis’s regular 2006 Cabernet. With near-perfect bal- eight years in a proper cellar, and it could age even lon- LABELS ance, this is awesome. Flavors of blackberries and black ger. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given currants are complexed with minerals and herbs and in- abv: 14.8% Price: $65 the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and definable things from the soil. It’s hard in tannins and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax rich in spicy, smoky new oak. Hold until at least 2014, 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. and it should continue to age well beyond that. Cellar Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at Selection. —S.H. buyingguide.winemag.com abv: 14.8% Price: $245

WineMag.com | 3 La Jota Vineyard 2009 Merlot (How- Celani Family Vineyards 2009 Chardon- 95 ell Mountain). This effort is meant for the Lancaster 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvi- 93 nay (Napa Valley). This has flavors of but- cellar. It’s huge in minerals, blackberries, blueberries 94 gnon (Alexander Valley). A great Cabernet tered cinnamon toast spread with orange marmalade, and black currants, all touched with smoky oak. The that will proudly stand beside the best of Napa Valley. with a drizzle of honey and a squirt of lime. Meanwhile, tannins are strong, making it astringent and dry. De- Made in the modern style, it’s soft and sweet in black- brisk acidity and a racy streak of minerality help to firm spite a touch of overripeness, it’s quite an achievement, berry, cherry, currant and dark-chocolate flavors, but it up. —S.H. showcasing its mountain origins. This should develop in the finish is thoroughly dry, wrapped in a scour of tan- abv: 14.2% Price: $40 the bottle over the next 6–8 years. Cellar Selection. nins and acids. So good to drink now, you might forget —S.H. to age it, but don’t. This will provide plenty of delicious- abv: 14.8% Price: $55 ness over the next six-plus years. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $85 Château d’Esclans 2010 93 Garrus Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This delicious wine of- fers subtle barrel nuances, with ripe plum and strawberry fruits. Along with this is a stylish crispness, just touched by spice and toast. This is a serious wine, intended for food. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —R.V. Maison Bleue 2010 La Montagnette abv: 13.5% Price: $90 94 Upland Vineyard Grenache (Snipes Au Sommet 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Mountain District). This lacy, fine-tuned Grenache 94 (Atlas Peak). Very rich and opulent, in the displays superb aromatics that are still a bit raw. One Heidi Barrett style, this Cabernet is sweetly jammy but gets the feeling that as good as the juicy, young grape somewhat direct in blackberries, cherries and raspber- and berry flavors are, this wine has more complexity ries. The finish is extraordinarily long and spicy, an in- lurking below the surface. Berry, mineral and bright dication that it’s a wine for the cellar. Firm tannins and spices elevate the finish, much like a youthful Montsant. fine acidity confirm its ageability. Hold this flashy, deca- Cellar Selection. —P.G. dent wine until 2016 and then try it again. Cellar Se- abv: 14.8% Price: $35 lection. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $250

Mt. Brave 2008 (Mount Veeder). Made from 100% Malbec sourced from Mount La Crema 2009 Nine Barrel Chardonnay - 94 Efeste 2009 Eléni Syrah (Yakima Valley). Veeder at the old Chateau Potelle vineyard, this is argu- 93 (Russian River Valley). A very rich, oaky, 94 The Eléni Syrah, sourced from old vines at Red ably one of the best from California ever. It’s dramatic Chardonnay. It’s dry and crisp in acidity, show- Willow Vineyard, may lay claim to being the best of a dark in color, dense in texture and full bodied, offering ing powerfully ripe pineapple, orange, apricot and hon- very fine lineup. It is a densely fruity wine, with con- bone-dry blackberry flavors that are wrapped with hard ey flavors, enhanced by toasty oak. Brisk acidity makes centrated flavors of raspberry liqueur, set upon a foun- tannins. Nowhere near ready to drink now, although it clean and vibrant. —S.H. dation of liquid rock. Focused and precise, it is almost consuming it with a steak will help mellow it. Hold until abv: 14.5% Price: $75 crystalline in its resonant elegance. Editors’ Choice. 2015, at least. —S.H. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $60 abv: 14.9% Price: $45

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 Pepper Bridge 2009 Seven Hills Vine- 93 yard (Walla Walla Valley). Right on the La Rochelle 2010 Ferrington Vineyard heels of the excellent 2008, this estate-grown Bordeaux- Steven Kent 2008 Ghielmetti Vineyard 93 Chardonnay (Anderson Valley). Comes style blend is equally compelling. Bright and tasty fruit 93 Clone Thirty Cabernet Sauvignon (Liver- down on the austere side of Chardonnay, trading the flavors of blueberry and black cherry introduce a lively, more Valley). A very herbal, red-fruit-infused Caber- modern flashy style for a sober, streamlined wine. It’s polished wine with a firm, complex and layered struc- net, from, as the name says, just one clone: Clone 30. bone dry and bright in acidity, with lemon, lime, honey ture. Seventeen months in French oak, roughly half This blockbuster California Cab has leather, tobac- and mineral flavors, touched with sweet oak. Expensive, new, has wrapped the fruit in a nicely-layered, textur- co and dusty dark-chocolate-layered tannins, that still but elegant and complex. Will challenge to al finish with highlights of mineral, licorice, black olive somehow taste softened and are accompanied by a note come up with the perfect pairing. Consider shellfish and spice. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. of black licorice. Cellar it for 10–12 years and the fruit first. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $60 should get along even better with the tannins. Cellar abv: 14.6% Price: $65 Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.3% Price: $100

Salomon-Undhof 2011 Wachtberg Erste Maison Nicolas Perrin 2009 Hermitage. A 93 Lage Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). This is a 93 blend of 70% and 30% , ripe, creamy wine made with grapes from a single vine- this is unusually aromatic for a white Hermitage, with yard. It’s smooth yet laced with minerality and a tang Steven Kent 2008 Smith Ranch Cabernet perfumed notes of pineapple and melon underscored of lemon zest, green apple and kiwi. This should age 93 Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). A brooding by hints of graphite. It’s plump on the midpalate and nicely for 3–4 years. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Cellar Se- bottle of tobacco and dark chocolate with ever-present custardy-rich in texture, yet focused and long on the lection. —R.V. tannins that go down easy and stay awhile. This single- finish. Drink now, or sometime after 2017. Vineyard abv: 13% Price: $28 vineyard designate from Livermore will impress Napa Brands. Cellar Selection. —J.C. Valley Cab fans and encourage them to get to know this abv: 13.5% Price: $79 producer. Smith Ranch has body for miles, bolstered by flavors and aromas of blackberry, black plum and fig. This wine will develop further over the next 5–7 years. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $60

Mt. Brave 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 93 (Mount Veeder). With raspingly dry, hard tan- St. Supéry 2007 Élu (Napa Val- Stonestreet 2010 Broken Road Chardon- nins, this is a difficult Cabernet to assess. It’s impres- 93 ley). There’s a lot of complex, youthful charm 93 nay (Alexander Valley). Intense and concen- sively rich in blackberries and black currants, with a in this Cabernet-based wine, which was grown in both trated, this Chardonnay powerfully displays the pedi- firm minerality, and the overall balance is good. Seems of St. Supery’s estate vineyards, Rutherford and Dol- gree of its mountain . The Meyer lemondrop like it should develop over the next decade, maybe even larhide. It’s very rich and ripe in blackberries, cassis, candy, orange and apricot fruit flavors are enriched with longer, but those tannins might outlast the fruit. Cellar blueberries and dark chocolate, with a savory spiciness. minerals and uplifted by bright acidity, while the oak in- Selection. —S.H. This really defines the Napa style, and demonstrates the fluence lends a tension of opulence. A very fine, elegant abv: 14.8% Price: $75 great success of the 2007 vintage. —S.H. and sophisticated wine for drinking now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: 14.5% Price: $40

WineMag.com | 5 Stonestreet 2009 Monument Ridge Cab- 93 ernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Dark in color and full-bodied, this bone dry Cabernet is tan- Domäne Wachau 2010 Achleiten Ries- nic and hard, despite having concentrated flavors of 92 ling Smaragd (Wachau). This is a rich and Hogue 2010 Genesis (Columbia blackberry jam and black currant. It has plenty of struc- smooth yet mineral-textured wine. It has weight, but 92 Valley). Irresistible from the get-go, this fra- tural integrity, and feels elegant in the mouth. Try hold- it’s balanced with intense acidity, a tight texture, and grant wine offers up inviting aromas of citrus, stone and ing it for a few years. If you drink it now, give it a few pink grapefruit and mandarin fruit. This needs to age exotic tropical fruits. Flavors of ripe peaches, bright- hours in the . Editors’ Choice. —S.H. for several years. Screwcap. Vin Divino. Cellar Selec- ened with vivid acidity, keep it in perfect balance. The abv: 15.3% Price: $45 tion. —R.V. 1.4% residual sugar is barely noticeable; the finish lin- abv: 13.5% Price: $50 gers gracefully and refreshes the palate, inviting the next sip. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 12.1% Price: $16

Bernardus 2009 Marinus Red Wine (Car- mel Valley). This is the ’s best Marinus 92 - since 2007, and is as good as the ’04—which is argu- Efeste 2009 Emmy (Wahluke Slope). ably the best ever. It offers immediate pleasure, with 92 Emmy is 67% Mourvèdre, 22% Grenache and soft tannins and acids framing perfectly ripened black- 11% Syrah, all sourced from the excellent Stone Tree Jarvis 2007 Estate Grown Cave Fer- berry, cherry, cola and earthy flavors. Ready to drink Vineyard. Tart and chewy, it delivers full throttle fruit 92 mented (Napa Val- now. —S.H. flavors of black cherry and plum, with hints of clean ley). Cabernet Franc is a difficult variety on abv: 14.1% Price: $46 earth, mineral and gun metal. Modeled on the blends its own, but Jarvis does an excellent job. This is of the southern Rhône, it shows beautiful balance still quite tannic, with a hard, astringent mouth- throughout a long finish. —P.G. feel to the cherry, blackberry and dark-chocolate abv: 14.9% Price: $38 flavors. Give this a few more years of aging, although it doesn’t seem like a longterm ager. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $80

Château Vignelaure 2011 Rosé (Coteaux 92 d’Aix-en-Provence). This is a vibrantly rich wine that is brimming with delicious red fruit notes and Highlands 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sau- bright acidity. Full and concentrated, it has weight with- 92 vignon (Howell Mountain). This is an Jean Daneel 2010 Signature Chenin out being heavy. It is a finely made wine, with a crisp inky-black wine, with soft, jammy flavors of black 92 Blanc (Western Cape). This oaked Chenin finish. Blue Coast International. —R.V. berries, cherries, dark chocolate and oak. The tannins shows great structure and power now, with the potential abv: 13% Price: $21 are mountain thick but as refined as modern winemak- to cellar nicely for another three years or beyond. Toast- ing can make them. And the finish? Sweet and dry at ed brioche, wood-grilled peaches and quince aromas the same time, which only a good wine can accomplish. open up immediately on the bouquet and carry through Needs 5–7 years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. to the palate alongside seductive accents of sweet spice, abv: 15% Price: $75 almond skin and orange oil. The texture is round and full, and the spice-driven finish is long and satisfying. Z Wines USA. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $28

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 Kendall-Jackson 2010 Grand Reserve 92 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara-Monterey). Maison Bleue 2010 Jaja Red Wine Gre- A very rich Chardonnay that’s creamy and smooth in the 92 nache-Syrah-Mourvèdre (Yakima Valley). mouth. A touch of oak and lees gives weight and density A vibrant, flashy, fruit-laden nose introduces this lively to the lime and peach fruit, while brisk acidity contrib- G-S-M blend. The three component grapes all contrib- Steven Kent 2008 Home Ranch Vineyard utes brightness. A great price for a wine of this distinc- ute different red, blue and purple berry flavors, nicely 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). tion. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. wound together with supporting acidity. Sappy, fresh A gorgeous wine, with herb, mint and tapenade flavors. abv: 13.5% Price: $21 and seductive, with the potential for a few years of ag- ThisCabernet has a big mouthfeel, with elegance and ing. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. a powerful finish. The tannins are sophisticatedly silky abv: 14.5% Price: $25 and the wine should age 5–7 years with aplomb. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $60

Kendall-Jackson 2009 Grand Reserve 92 Merlot (Sonoma County). This Merlot starts off tough and tannic, with rich flavors of blackberries, Salomon-Undhof 2011 Wiedenberg Tra- Teso La Monja 2009 Almirez (Toro). This currants and toasty oak, girded with minerals and spices 92 dition Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). A beau- 92 has an opaque purple color, with a supremely and finishing totally dry. It feels elegant and balanced, tifully concentrated wine that balances flavors of baked concentrated and potent dark-fruited bouquet. Feels showing a fine sense of control. Drink over the next 5–6 apple and spicy pepper. It feels full in the mouth, with amped up, warm and exotic, with black fruit flavors years. —S.H. a tense texture and intense acidity. Drink now, but bet- alongside notes of peppery spice and bitter chocolate. abv: 14.5% Price: $26 ter to hold for two years. Screwcap. Fruit of the Vines, Toasty and chocolaty on the finish. Drink now through Inc. —R.V. 2016. Fine Estates From Spain. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $28

La Rochelle 2010 Rosella’s Vineyard St. Supéry 2009 Dollarhide Malbec (Napa 92 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Ex- 92 Valley). California Malbec by itself tends to be pensive, yes, but very fine, especially if you’re looking straightforward, which might be why the winemaker Walla Walla Vintners 2009 Cabernet for a Chardonnay that’s drier, more elegant and more blended this one with a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon and 92 Franc (Columbia Valley). This is a tight, streamlined than the opulent, buttery modern style. Merlot. The result is excellent, one of the best Malbecs black-fruited wine, with generous flavors that include Sleek and crisp in acidity, this features citrus, tropical in California, with rich blackberry, currant and cedar espresso and licorice. At first it’s quite firm and a bit fruit and mineral flavors, with a balanced addition of flavors. The strong tannins suggest it should pair well unyielding, it slowly peels open layer after layer, tossing smoky oak. —S.H. with beef. —S.H. out hints of dried herb, tobacco and mocha. Editors’ abv: 14.9% Price: $65 abv: 14.3% Price: $50 Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $28

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Château de Beaucastel 2009 Coudoulet 91 de Beaucastel (Côtes du Rhône). Beau- castel’s Côtes du Rhône is like a mini Châteauneuf-du- Kenwood 2011 (Russian Riv- Cameron Hughes 2009 Lot 246 Cabernet Pape in its blend of grapes and its sourcing, just outside 91 er Valley). This wine is exactly why Pinot 91 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A great Cabernet that famous appellation. The 2009 is a very successful Gris/Grigio is so popular. It’s simply delicious, with for drinking now with upscale dishes. Production was and flattering Coudoulet, with scents ofgarrigue and zesty acidity framing orange, peach, honey, vanilla and 2,700 cases, but it’s worth a search. Tastes classy and cherry followed by a palate that’s round and lush with- mineral flavors that remain basically dry. Editors’ elegant, with rich blackberry, currant, anise and oak fla- out being at all heavy. Long and velvety on the finish. Choice. —S.H. vors that are dry and complex. For this price, it’s a huge Vineyard Brands. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 value. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $36 abv: 14.8% Price: $22

La Crema 2010 Chardonnay (Arroyo 91 Seco). This Chardonnay is marked by brisk acidity, and pure, clean flavors of pineapples, golden - Efeste 2009 Jolie Bouche Syrah (Yakima mangoes, stony minerals and smoky butter. It’s made Cameron Hughes 2009 Lot 285 Caber- 91 Valley). This is a supple, spicy wine, with a core for drinking now with upscale fare. —S.H. 91 net Sauvignon (Rutherford). Completely of black cherry fruit. It’s complemented with lighter fla- abv: 14% Price: $30 satisfying on every level. Kudos to the winery for re- vors of cola, earth and coffee. At first it seems to fade leasing a wine this dry, complex and delicious, at such a a little too quickly, but with some breathing time the good price. Easy to drink, yet sophisticated and elegant. finish expands and brings in notes of cracker and toast. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 abv: 14.9% Price: $39

MacRostie 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma 91 Coast). This affordable Chard is a wonderful food wine. It’s dry, brisk in acidity and clean, with nice flavors of pineapples, oranges, pears and limes. Oak treatment adds a just right touch of vanilla and but- Château Sainte Marguerite 2011 Cru tered toast, while brisk acidity makes it all bright and Classé Grand Réserve Rosé (Côtes de Gifford Hirlinger 2009 Stateline Red (Wal- zesty. Easy to find, with 13,200 cases produced. Edi- 91 la Walla Valley). tors’ Choice. Provence). Elegant, taut and poised, this has enough 91 Gifford Hirlinger’s Stateline —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $25 texture to suggest it needs a few more months of aging. Red is perhaps the least-known best-value wine in the It has a finely wrought character that comes from the Walla Walla AVA. The blend changes radically from year mix of zesty acidity and sweet fruit. Dreyfus, Ashby & to year—this is 83% Cabernet with splashes of Malbec, Co. —R.V. Tinta Cão, and Petit Verdot. Focused and abv: 12.5% Price: $28 concentrated, it has a streak of orange and cherry li- queur, and yummy highlights of coffee cake. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $16

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 Balletto 2011 Rosé of (Rus- 90 sian River Valley). Thank goodness this rosé Domaine Saint-Aix 2011 Aix Rosé (Co- Maryhill 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve Cab- is bone dry for a change, when so many California 90 teaux d’Aix-en-Provence). This tastes light 91 ernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). The blushes are sugary sweet. It also shows a bite of acidity and fruity. Its great swathe of acidity cuts through the reserve takes the tight focus and black fruit flavors of and tannins. The flavors range from mineral and rose orange and red fruit flavors, lending crispness and a the regular Cab and ramps them up a notch or two. petal to cherry and herb tea. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. fresh finish. American Northwest Distributors Inc. Deeper, denser and darker, with flavors of cassis and abv: 13.8% Price: $18 Editors’ Choice. —R.V. licorice wrapped into the tannic, earthy depths of the abv: 13% Price: $19 finish. This has great power. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $30

Buehler 2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvi- Efeste- 2009 Ceidleigh Syrah (Red Moun- 90 gnon (St. Helena). Nice, classic black currant 90 tain). Pronounced Kay-lee, this is the most Sorelle Per Sempre 2010 Un-Oaked Sus- and cedar flavors in this dry young wine, with some firm tannic of the from Efeste-. Forward black fruit 91 tainable Farming Chardonnay (Central minerality. The tannin structure is evident in the form flavors are wreathed in smoke, and there is plenty of Coast). Unbelievable that there’s no oak on this Char- of a tough astringency. Give it 6–8 years in the cellar. supporting acidity. This finishes with a burst of cherry. donnay. It’s so rich and creamy in vanilla, tangerine, Cellar Selection. —S.H. Cellar Selection. —P.G. peach and apricot flavors, you won’t miss that hit of but- abv: 14.7% Price: $36 abv: 14.9% Price: $38 tered toast. The acidity is marvelous. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $16

Hanzell 2010 Sebella Chardonnay (So- Ceuso 2008 Rosso (Sicilia). This blend of 90 noma Valley). Dry and rich, with bracing ac- Talley 2010 Estate Bottled Chardonnay 90 Nero d’Avola, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot ids and minerals, this has complex pineapple, pear and 91 (Arroyo Grande Valley). Talley produces offers aromas of dark fruit, espresso bean, leather, to- buttercream flavors. It’s lovely to drink now. —S.H. some of the best Chardonnays on the Central Coast. Al- bacco and savory spice. It’s a bold, structured wine, with abv: 14.2% Price: $36 though this isn’t one of their single-vineyard bottlings, firm tannins and a bitter chocolate aftertaste. Vias Im- it’s a splendid wine, dry, crisp and silky. It shows com- ports. —M.L. plex citrus, vanilla and mineral flavors, and should pair abv: 14.5% Price: $40 with lobster, shrimp and scallops. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $26

WineMag.com | 9 La Crema 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma 90 Coast). A bone-dry Chardonnay for drinking now. This shows great structure, with a keen cut of acid- ity that brightens the mineral-driven orange and pine- Hogue 2009 Genesis Syrah (Columbia apple flavors. —S.H. 90 Valley). Well made and muscular, this compact abv: 13.8% Price: $22 Maryhill 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve Mal- effort brings black fruit, black olive, black licorice and 90 bec (Columbia Valley). An excellent Wash- espresso flavors together in a balanced and strikingly ington Malbec, this spicy delight sets up beautifully on complex Syrah. The blend includes small amounts of the palate with bright, crisply defined, varietal fruit fla- Cabernet, Lemberger, and Merlot—unusu- vors of boysenberry, black cherry and cassis. Precise and al, but it works. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. penetrating, with excellent balance, it keeps the barrel abv: 13.9% Price: $16 flavors light and minimal. —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $25

MacMurray Ranch 2009 Pinot Noir (So- 90 noma Coast). A proper, textbook Pinot Noir— it’s dry, nicely crisp, with smoothly astringent tannins. It has pleasant, complex cherry, pomegranate, plum, to- bacco, bacon and sandalwood flavors. Not an ager, so Jarvis 2010 Estate Grown Cave Fer- drink up with upscale fare. —S.H. Merryvale 2010 Chardonnay (Carne- 90 mented Tempranillo (Napa Valley). abv: 13.9% Price: $27 90 ros). This is a good followup to Merryvale’s Shows the impeccable and winemak- 2009. While it was barrel fermented in nearly half new ing talent that mark all of Jarvis’s red wines. The tan- French oak, it never feels overly manipulated or fussy. nins and acidity are considerable, giving the cherry Marked by crisp acidity and Carneros minerality, it’s an flavor such a nice bite. A lovely wine to drink now with elegant, clean wine, with subtle Meyer lemon, lime and steak or Italian-inspired beef dishes. —S.H. Asian pear flavors. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $70 abv: 14.5% Price: $35

Maryhill 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co- St. Supéry 2009 Dollarhide Petit Verdot 90 lumbia Valley). Tight and focused, this has a 90 (Napa Valley). The 2009 Dollarhide Petit Ver- La Crema 2010 Chardonnay (Russian fine core of black cherry and cassis. Layers of coffee and dot is an excellent wine that reflects its terroir, but over- 90 River Valley). A rich, creamy wine, with fla- dark chocolate are wrapped around the fruit, and the all it’s a tad one dimensional, with a dark color, strong vors of buttered toast, vanilla cream, pineapple and or- wine is compact and textural. Excellent now, but prob- tannins and ripe, sweet blackberry flavors. —S.H. ange. It’s rich, but fine in dry acids and minerals. —S.H. ably better in a few years. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $50 abv: 14.2% Price: $30 abv: 13.6% Price: $17

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 SPIRITS

Clyde May’s Whiskey 93 (USA; Spirits Acquisi- tions, Dallas, TX). A spry cha- meleon of a whiskey. At first, this dark amber spirit reads as light and sweet, from its distinct ripe apple and hazelnut notes to the light-bod- ied feel. But just when you think it’s going to be a lightweight, there’s Vina Robles 2008 Syrée (Paso Robles). Hill Wine Company 2010 Sustainably surprising oomph on the finish, dry 90 This is a ripe, full-bodied red, made mostly 87 Grown Chardonnay (Napa Valley). A leather and clove notes that balance from Syrah, with about one-fifth Petite Sirah for tan- rich Chardonnay, with plenty to offer. It’s creamy and it out. This sippable whiskey would nic weight and depth. It’s a big wine, front-loaded with smooth in the mouth, with dry flavors of citrus, tropical be great for whiskey sours and other blackberry and black pepper flavors, with a spicy, smoky fruit, vanilla and buttered toast, and brisk, clean acid- cocktails. Best Buy. finish that tastes of grilled Canadian bacon. Drink this ity. —S.H. abv: 42.5% Price: $29 savory wine now. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $18 abv: 15.5% Price: $39

BEST BUYS

Starmont 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Val- 89 ley). This is a wine that offers lots of class at Hill Wine Company 2009 Sustainably a very good price. It’s marked by flavors of streamlined 85 Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- citrus fruit, Asian pear, honey and a hint of buttered ley). There is a lot of sweet, upfront blackberry and Hogue 2010 Gewürztraminer (Columbia toast. It finishes thoroughly dry. With nearly 37,000 cas- cherry fruit in this Cabernet. A good wine that should 91 Valley). With the snap and concentration of a es produced, this should be relatively easy to find.Edi - pair well with everyday fare. —S.H. tasty lemon-drop cocktail, this lovely Gewürztraminer tors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 pays homage to the floral aspect of the grape without abv: 13.9% Price: $22 drowning in it. Perfumed, not soapy, with superb fruit flavors of peaches and citrus, it’s a sensational value. SPIRITS Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $11

Château Saint-Pierre 2011 90 Tradition Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This is a well-balanced wine that is both crisp and breezy and full of delicious red-berry fruits. It has a tight texture, with some mineral- Mezzacorona 2008 Riserva (Teroldego ity and a tangy aftertaste. This should 88 Rotaliano). This opens with dark, inky con- make for an excellent apéritif. Luxe centration and savory aromas of leather, black fruit, to- . Best Buy. —R.V. bacco and black cherry. The wine feels smooth and rich Michter’s US*1 Unblended American abv: 12.5% Price: $15 on the palate. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —M.L. 94 Whiskey (USA; Michter’s Distillery, LLC, abv: 13% Price: $16 Louisville, KY). This small-batch whiskey is a treat, butter-soft and loaded with sweet toffee and hazelnut aromas and flavors. The long finish rolls toward dry espresso and mocha flavors, pepped up with clove and cinnamon. abv: 41.7% Price: $43

WineMag.com | 11 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Morro Bay 2010 Split Oak Estates Sur Lie Kendall-Jackson 2010 Avant Chardon- Hogue 2010 Riesling (Columbia Valley). 88 Chardonnay (California). For a wine that’s 90 nay (California). A bit heavy and creamy, but 88 This is a delightful, off-dry style with the clean, been made with a soft touch but still has some weight there’s something exotic about the oily, fat richness that natural, bracing acidity to perfectly balance out the and finesse, this is a great value. It opens with aromas of suggests cashew nuts. With Meyer lemon flavors, it’s an 2.3% residual sugar. About 3% was blended ripe peach fuzz and crisp apple, a nice intermingling of unctuous wine, and a very good value. Best Buy. —S.H. in, adding a pretty orange note to a fruit-laden mix of flavors. Lemon and grapefruit rind flavors shine on the abv: 13.5% Price: $15 melon, citrus and cotton candy. Best Buy. —P.G. finish.Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 12.2% Price: $11 abv: 13.9% Price: $11

Famille Perrin 2009 Réserve (Côtes 88 du Rhône). Fresh, nuanced and just slight- Castle Rock 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Hogue 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co- ly herbal, this is a refreshingly easy to drink Côtes du 89 (Columbia Valley). Castle Rock does a fine 88 lumbia Valley). Hogue has really stepped it Rhône made for everyday consumption. Cherry and job with this value Cabernet Sauvignon. Smooth and up across the board, and this $11 Cabernet is as good as plum notes are dressed up with hints of wild thyme and supple, the very pretty fruit flavors range from cranber- you’ll find at that price point. Raspberry and cherry fruit cracked pepper, while some cocoa-like textures and fla- ry to black cherry. Delicate suggestions of mushroom, comes with an underpinning of pencil lead and clean vors linger on the finish. Drink now. Vineyard Brands. cocoa and dusty earth add welcome complexity. Best earth, paying tribute to the earthier, herbal side of the Best Buy. —J.C. Buy. —P.G. grape. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 13.9% Price: $11

Bodegas Iranzo 2007 Tarantas Crianza Cavit 2009 Alta Luna Phases (Vigneti Landskroon 2011 Dry 87 Made With Organic Grapes Tempranillo 88 delle Dolomiti). A blend of Teroldego, La- 88 (Paarl). A brisk and lifted Chenin that should (Utiel-Requena). Attractive aromas of cigar box, for- grein and Merlot, this well-priced Italian opens with pair well with summer salads, grilled flake fish or chick- est floor, plum and berry get this Tempranillo off to a inky, dark concentration and loads of ripe fruit, black- en. Peony and orange blossom notes grace the back- good start. It feels crisp and juicy, with proper acid- berry and cinnamon. Nicely balanced, it’s not too bold ground of the bouquet, while white peach, lemon ity cutting into flavors of buttery oak, raspberry and or overextracted. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. and yellow apple flesh flavors fill the medium-weight plum. On the finish it remains buttery tasting and turns —M.L. palate. Balanced and refreshing; enjoy now. Z Wines grabby but also tangy. Natural Merchants LLC. Best abv: 12.5% Price: $13 USA. Best Buy. —L.B. Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $11 abv: 13% Price: $10

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Charles & Charles 2010 Cabernet Sauvi- 87 gnon-Syrah (Columbia Valley). A project of Charles Smith and Charles Bieler, this easy-drinking, Volver 2010 Tarima Monastrell (Alicante).

approachable red is a low-budget expression of a popu- 87 Spunky and clean as a whistle, with pointed lar blend. The sweet cherry fruit is lightly candied, and cherry aromas leading to a zesty, juicy palate with red Cavit 2010 Collection Cabernet Sau- it bears a strong scent of toast. The flavors are simple, plum and red berry flavors. It remains dry and poised vignon (Trentino). Simple, bright and juicy and quite pretty, with a streak of fresh cut tobacco. on the finish. Fine Estates From Spain.Best Buy. 85 genuine, this Cabernet Sauvignon offers layers of Best Buy. —P.G. —M.S. blackberry, leather and prune. Palm Bay International. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 14.5% Price: $8 Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $10

Altùris 2011 Pinot Grigio (Venezia Giulia). El Coto 2011 Rosado (). Aromas of 86 This is a value white, with fresh tones of citrus, 87 watermelon and a dusting of natural vanilla pear and stone fruit. Zesty crispness marks the finish, mark the bouquet. On the palate, it’s fleshy but still making it perfect for smoked salmon with cream cheese. crisp and focused, with nectarine, red apple and straw- Altùris USA. Best Buy. —M.L. Dragonia 2009 Old Vine Garnacha (Cari- berry flavors. The finish lasts, with some sweetness. abv: 12.5% Price: $11 85 ñena). Standard berry and cherry aromas set Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. up a fresh, fairly balanced and medium-weight palate abv: 12.5% Price: $11 with raspberry, red plum and oak flavors on the back end. It’s mild on the finish, with snappy acidity that causes shortness. A.W. Direct. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10

Marqués de Cáceres 2011 Rosé 87 (Rioja). Pink in color, this has fresh, clean aro- mas of stone fruits. Feels medium to full, with red lic- orice, sweet baking-spice and raspberry flavors. Quick, Canaletto 2011 Pinot Grigio (Delle Vene- Mezzacorona 2010 Pinot Noir (Vigneti round and solid on the finish, which lingers for quite 85 zie). Redolent of fresh citrus, peach, pear and delle Dolomiti). This bright Pinot Noir has some time. A fine summer sipper. Vineyard Brands. fragrant white flower, this is a wine to drink on a hot 85 aromas of rose, wet earth, tobacco and crushed stone. Best Buy. —M.S. summer day by the pool. Ethica Wines. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $9 —M.L. The finish is fresh and silky. Prestige Wine Imports abv: 12% Price: $9 Corp. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $9

WineMag.com | 13 Bratcher 2009 Mary Ellis Sierra Madre Sanguis 2010 Loner W10-a Chardonnay BEST BUYS 92 Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Val- 92 (Santa Maria Valley). The Loner title seems ley). This marches in a completely opposite direction to refer to an absence of oak, although it’s not entirely from the oaky, fruity, buttery style of modern Chardon- unoaked. The wine spent time in what the winemaker nay. It’s bone dry and minerally, with mouthwatering calls “seasoned barriques” that lent no overt oak influ- acidity and traces of oranges and limes. The minerality ence, but let the wine breathe and mellow. Marked by is like a lick of cold steel. What a great food wine at a intense lemon, lime and mineral flavors, this bone-dry great price, although production was a paltry 230 cases. wine is elegant and eccentric. —S.H. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $60 abv: 14.2% Price: $25 Tondré 2010 Tondré Grapefield Char- Fort Ross 2010 Fort Ross Vineyard Char- 92 donnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). A good 92 donnay (Sonoma Coast). Showing the brisk Chardonnay from a vineyard well-known for its Pinot. acidity and minerality of this fine Chardonnay vineyard, Simultaneously marked by brisk, citrusy acidity and Fort Ross’s 2010 also shows rich, rewarding pineapple, pure, long hangtime flavors, it’s delicious in orange, orange, butterscotch and vanilla flavors. Feels opulent, apricot and peach fruit, with a clean minerality from the Tapeña 2010 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tier- a worthy followup to past vintages. —S.H. soil. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. 85 ra de Castilla). This opens with smoky, rub- abv: 14.1% Price: $32 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 bery aromas along with dark berry and cherry scents. It feels fresh and lively, with good body weight and Kendall-Jackson 2010 Grand Reserve Alpha Omega 2009 Chardonnay (Napa forward, candied flavors of cherry and raspberry. The 92 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara-Monterey). 91 Valley). After years of trying, Alpha Omega fi- finish is nice, with cocoa notes and lasting sweetness. For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. nally hits the bullseye. It’s everything you want in a fine Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $21 Chardonnay, with ripe citrus and tropical fruit flavors, abv: 13.5% Price: $10 a rich oaky, creamy overlay and bracing acidity. —S.H. Krutz 2010 Martinelli Road Chardonnay abv: 14.6% Price: $58 92 (Russian River Valley). Napa Cabernet spe- cialist Krutz has been looking for a place to buy grapes Arrowood 2009 Reserve Speciale Char- CORRECTIONS for Chardonnay. Now they have a Russian River bot- 91 donnay (Sonoma County). Buttery and tling, and it’s quite a good one. This shows the region’s creamy, with tiers of tangerine and tropical fruit flavors On page 16 of the May issue, Bedford Post was in- brisk acidity and minerality, as well as a purity of or- that turn honeyed on the finish. Despite the richness, correctly listed as being in Bedford Hills. It is located ange, pineapple, apricot and green apple fruit, elabo- there’s elegance and balance throughout. —S.H. in Bedford. rated with sweet new oak. Drink now, with upscale fare. abv: 14.9% Price: $40 —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $45 D.R. Stephens 2010 Chardonnay (Napa 91 Valley). This Chardonnay offers nothing but La Rochelle 2010 Rosella’s Vineyard deliciousness, and doesn’t apologize for any lack of sub- 92 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). tlety. It’s as rich as a dessert pastry, with pineapple and For full review see page 7. orange pie, buttered croissant and vanilla flavors. Brisk abv: 14.9% Price: $65 acidity makes it all shiny and bright. It’s arguably one of the best Napa Valley Chardonnays out there. —S.H. Lynmar 2010 La Sereinité Chardonnay abv: 14.7% Price: $50 92 (Russian River Valley). This shows the chilly vintage in the bright acidity that makes this wine’s Failla 2010 Hudson Vineyard Chardon- finish so zesty clean. The flavors are tantalizing, suggest- 91 nay (Napa Valley). Made from fruit grown in ing golden apricots, limes and honey, but are complex the Hudson Vineyard on the Napa side of Carneros, this in minerals and creamy in lees, making it an intellectual Chardonnay is rich, creamy and soft. There’s a touch of wine. Amazingly, it’s unoaked. —S.H. dried herbs to the orange, banana-cream pie and but- abv: 14.1% Price: $70 terscotch. Opulent and dry, it’s made to drink now with rich fare. —S.H. Morgan 2010 Double L Vineyard Char- abv: 14.1% Price: $50 92 donnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). A big, flashy wine that’s fabulously rich in flavors of pineap- Hestan 2009 Chardonnay ( ple, orange and lemon custard, and liberally accent- 91 Bay). Hestan only makes this one . ed with the crème brûlée and vanilla from it’s time in Though its beginnings might seem humble, the juice in new French oak. Fresh acidity, minerality from the the bottle surely will change anyone’s mind. This is liq- soil and a dry finish bring an elegant touch to this ripe uid gold in color, with deep petrol aromas and a note Chardonnay. —S.H. of toasted caramel oak.It’s superbly balanced, with min- abv: 13.8% Price: $40 erality winning the day—especially on the finish. This wine starts out like a California blockbuster but finishes Ridge 2010 Estate Monte Bello Vineyard very elegantly, with finesse. —V.B. 92 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). A abv: 14.1% Price: $50 fancy, rich Chardonnay that has concentrated, intense Meyer-lemon tart, mineral and honeysuckle flavors, yet La Crema 2010 Chardonnay (Arroyo it’s elegant, with streamlined acidity. Oak adds the per- 91 Seco). For full review see page 8. fect touch of buttered toast. This showcases the opu- abv: 14% Price: $30 lence of Chardonnay, while maintaining balance and dryness. —S.H. Lynmar 2010 Chardonnay (Russian River abv: 14.2% Price: $40 91 Valley). The cool vintage has kept this wine tart

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 in acidity; and there may even be a touch of botrytis, to Chappellet 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Val- vital acidity makes it shine like polished silver. This is a judge from the golden apricot note that rides over the 90 ley). This effort is similar to Chappellet’s past very good food win at a reasonable price. With 20,000 pears, limes and buttery cream. Bone dry and miner- vintages, with citrus and tropical fruit flavors, tastefully cases produced, it should be relatively easy to find.Edi - ally, it’s an elegant, Chablis-style wine for drinking now. accented by oak and brightened with a squeeze of lem- tors’ Choice. —S.H. —S.H. ony acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 14.9% Price: $32 Fort Ross 2010 Bicentennial Commem- MacRostie 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma Girard 2009 Dutton Ranch - Mill Station 89 orative Bottling Chardonnay (Sonoma 91 Coast). For full review see page 8. Editors’ 90 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This Coast). This is rich and oaky, with ripe orange, pineap- Choice. is a rich, complex Chardonnay that’s made to appeal to ple and pear flavors and the buttered toast of oak barrel abv: 14.1% Price: $25 fans of the variety. Acidity brightens the green apple, aging. Almost too much of a good thing, it trades nuance peach and pear flavors, while oak brings notes of but- for sheer power, but it’s certainly a good example of the Sorelle Per Sempre 2010 Un-Oaked Sus- tered toast and caramel. The alcohol is a little high and California style. —S.H. 91 tainable Farming Chardonnay (Central warm, making the wine ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $34 Coast). For full review see page 9. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.7% Price: $30 abv: 13.6% Price: $16 Gallo Signature Series 2009 Chardon- Hanzell 2010 Sebella Chardonnay (So- 89 nay (Russian River Valley). This is a min- Stonestreet 2010 Upper Barn Chardon- 90 noma Valley). For full review see page 9. erally and oaky wine, but it’s balanced with fine acidity. 91 nay (Alexander Valley). This Chardonnay abv: 14.2% Price: $36 Despite the ripe pineapple and orange flavors, this fin- has all the bells and whistles the winemaker can bestow ishes thoroughly dry. Don’t drink it too cold. —S.H. on it. It’s soft and creamy, with flavors of sweetly-sour Kendall-Jackson 2010 Avant Chardon- abv: 14.5% Price: $30 pineapple and lemon-drop candy, buttered toast and sa- 90 nay (California). For full review see page 12. vory cinnamon spices. Fine acidity gives a sheen to the Best Buy. Kessler-Haak 2010 Kessler-Haak Vine- richness. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 89 yard Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Very abv: 14.5% Price: $60 much like the fine 2009, the winery’s new Chardonnay La Crema 2010 Chardonnay (Russian is bone dry and austere, like a Chablis. Highly miner- Talley 2010 Estate Bottled Chardonnay 90 River Valley). For full review see page 10. ally, with mouthwatering acidity, the fruit flavors veer 91 (Arroyo Grande Valley). For full review see abv: 14.2% Price: $30 toward Meyer lemons and limes. —S.H. page 9. abv: 14.1% Price: $38 abv: 14.4% Price: $26 La Crema 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma 90 Coast). For full review see page 10. Lucia 2010 Soberanes Vineyard Char- Two Sisters 2009 Courtney’s Vine- abv: 13.8% Price: $22 89 donnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). An ec- 91 yard Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). centric Chardonnay, although it’s well made and has in- There’s a bright, brisk vein of acidity in this dry wine, Liquid Farm 2010 Golden Slope Char- tellectual appeal. Bone dry and acidic, this has intense which stimulates the palate and gets the tastebuds 90 donnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Polished and flavors of apricots, pineapples and honey. It should age watering. The true flavors sink into the middle palate, creamy, this is made to appeal to the popular style. It’s for up to 8 years, gradually losing fruit and gaining suggesting grilled pineapple, tangerine jam and but- rich and ripe in tangerine, apricot and lime fruit, with earthy, minerally qualities. —S.H. tered toast. A firm minerality grounds and braces the toasty, vanilla overtones. Brightened by crisp acidity, it’s abv: NA Price: $45 richness. Don’t drink this Chardonnay too cold. —S.H. a lovely wine to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $55 abv: 14.1% Price: $50 Ojai 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara 89 County). Made in the Ojai style of modest Annabella 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Val- McIntyre Vineyards 2010 Estate Char- alcohol, dryness and delicacy, this offers subtle citrus, 90 ley). A clean, spicy Chardonnay, with classic 90 donnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). This is a tropical fruit and mineral flavors. It’s not terribly com- flavors of oranges, green apples, pears and spices. The flamboyant wine made in the oaky style. It’s opulent in plex, but it is streamlined and elegant. Drink up. —S.H. oak influence is minimal, allowing the fruit and acid- pineapple, golden mango and pear flavors, with a coat- abv: 13.5% Price: $24 ity to star. This shows an elegance that places it at the ing of sweet oak. The richness is brightened by tart acid- forefront of Chardonnays in this price range. Editors’ ity. Drink this flashy wine now, with the richest fare you Porter Family Vineyards 2009 Char- Choice. —S.H. can. —S.H. 89 donnay (Napa Valley). Made in the mod- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 abv: NA Price: $28 ern style of oaky creaminess and very flashy fruit, this Chardonnay erupts in a burst of oranges and rum Babcock 2010 The Mentor Chardonnay Merryvale 2010 Chardonnay (Carneros). punch, buttered toast and honey. It’s rich and layered, if 90 (Sta. Rita Hills). An eccentric Chardonnay, 90 For full review see page 10. a little soft. —S.H. with botrytis-like flavors of apricot jam and honey domi- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.2% Price: $38 nating, but there also are rich notes of buttered toast and tropical fruit. It’s dry and creamy and a little warm. Pride Mountain 2010 Vintner Select Char- Staglin 2009 Chardonnay (Rutherford). Drink over the next 3 years. —S.H. 90 donnay (Sonoma County). This is always a 89 Big, rich and oaky, this is packed with flavors abv: 15.3% Price: $45 gigantic wine, and its success depends on technically of buttered toast, buttered popcorn, honey and tropical balancing its various parts. The 2010 delivers the usual fruit flavors. It’s a ripe, flashy wine, with broad appeal. Babcock 2010 Top Cream Chardonnay richness, with vast, deep fruit, mineral, oak and leesy Drink with opulent fare, like shellfish risotto or crab in 90 (Sta. Rita Hills). Strongly flavored, this Char- flavors. It’s as full bodied as a red wine, but a little heavy drawn butter. —S.H. donnay marches to its own beat. Some will object to the for a Chardonnay. Not an ager, it’s best enjoyed now abv: 14.5% Price: $75 apricot, golden currant and butterscotch tastes as atypi- with the richest Chardonnay-friendly dishes. —S.H. cal, but they’re quite complex and original. It finishes abv: 14.4% Price: $48 Starmont 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Val- thoroughly dry and crisp. Drink over the next 3–4 years. 89 ley). For full review see page 11. Editors’ —S.H. Chamisal Vineyards 2011 Stainless Uno- Choice. abv: 14.8% Price: $45 89 aked Chardonnay (Central Coast). The abv: 13.9% Price: $22 lime, kiwi, orange and lemon fruit flavors are so deli- cious, you won’t miss the oak accents at all. Its bright,

WineMag.com | 15 Arcadian 2007 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Signaterra 2010 West Rows Sangiacomo Hill Wine Company 2010 Sustainably 88 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). 88 Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros). This 87 Grown Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full Apricot jam and late- botrytis flavors are often wine continues to be big, with bold fruit and notable review see page 11. characteristic of this vineyard. This is bone dry, with oak and lees influence. It’s as full bodied as a red wine, abv: 14.1% Price: $18 brisk acidity and stony minerality. It will gradually lose with flavors of apricot, orange, buttered toast and yeasty fruit over the years. —S.H. cream flavors. Drink up. —S.H. Jenner 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma abv: NA Price: $45 abv: 14.1% Price: $32 87 Coast). Ripe and oaky, with notes of vanilla and buttered toast dominating pineapple and tropical Arrowood 2009 Alary Chardonnay (Rus- Stark 2009 Windsor Oaks Vineyard Char- fruit flavors. Brisk acidity provides a needed balance to 88 sian River Valley). Here’s a smooth, creamy 88 donnay (Russian River Valley). An exotic all this richness. —S.H. Chardonnay for drinking now. It has good weight, with Chardonnay, this is reminiscent of a Rhône white wine, abv: 14.1% Price: $18 a deep center of citrus, peach and buttered toast flavors. with its honeysuckle, mineral, apricot, tangerine and Russian River Valley acidity makes it racy and clean. sautéed banana flavors. It’s certainly savory. Don’t drink Kuleto Estate 2010 Chardonnay (Napa —S.H. it too cold. —S.H. 87 Valley). Strives for power in every way, with abv: 15.2% Price: $35 abv: 14.2% Price: $30 massively ripe, extracted pineapple, orange and peach flavors, as well as lots of oak. The barrel aging brings Bernardus 2010 Chardonnay (Monterey Aquinas 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). butterscotch and caramel notes. —S.H. 88 County). The popular, modern style has dic- 87 This is barrel fermented, with noticeable flavors abv: 14.2% Price: $45 tated the crafting of this wine. It’s sweet and delicious in of heavily buttered toast, butterscotch and caramel fla- buttered toast, caramel corn and ripe orange and gold- vors. Bright with crisp acidity, it also features notes of Lafond 2010 SRH Chardonnay (Sta. en mango fruit, brightened with crisp acidity. —S.H. ripe pineapple, pear, peach and mango. —S.H. 87 Rita Hills). Shows opulent, vibrant flavors of abv: 14.1% Price: $22 abv: 13.7% Price: $15 pineapple and orange jam, with accents of butter, cream and vanilla. Very flashy and decadent, if a little obvious. Center of Effort 2009 Chardonnay (Edna B.R. Cohn 2010 Silver Label Chardonnay This should pair nicely with rich shellfish dishes. —S.H. 88 Valley). A big improvement over the ’08 87 (North Coast). The Sonoma Valley-based win- abv: 14.7% Price: $22 bottling, the winery’s ’09 is dry and tart in Central Coast ery has sourced from all over for this wine and from a acidity, with pure, clean flavors of tangerine, vanilla wide selection of clones. This wine is attractively priced Lava Cap 2010 Battonage Chardonnay and buttered toast. It’s a lovely Chardonnay; drink now. for its crisp and lively golden delicious apple flavors and 87 (El Dorado). This El Dorado wine opens —S.H. smoky oak presence. Richly textured, the finish is all with aromas of sweet floral jasmine and is very pretty abv: 14.2% Price: $30 about lemon. —V.B. through and through. Its acidity sings perfectly through abv: 13.9% Price: $15 the middle of the wine, lifting the flavors of apple and Girard 2010 Chardonnay (Russian Riv- dried apricot as well as the notes of lemon and lime on 88 er Valley). A solid wine, rich in oak-inspired Buehler 2010 Chardonnay (Russian the finish. This should pair with a range of midweek orange, apricot and Asian pear flavors, with a spicy, 87 River Valley). Sweet oak and jammy fruit dinners. —V.B. creamy finish. The acidity is notable, making this Char- dominate this Chardonnay. Made in the popular style, abv: 14.6% Price: $18 donnay brisk and clean. —S.H. its buttered toast, orange marmalade and honey fla- abv: 13.9% Price: $24 vors—all brightened with acidity—will find widespread Liquid Farm 2010 White Hill Chardon- appeal. —S.H. 87 nay (Sta. Rita Hills). Marked by brisk, cut- Kendall-Jackson 2010 Vintner’s Reserve abv: 14.7% Price: $16 ting acidity, this Chardonnay is bone dry, with a steely, 88 Chardonnay (California). This is clean and stony cut of mineral that’s relieved by lemon and lime dry, with crisp acidity. It’s leaner than many richer Char- Cosentino 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Val- flavors. It’s a severe wine by itself, but it should be food donnays, but shows plenty of wealth and creaminess, 87 ley). Here’s a dry, crisp Chardonnay. The trop- friendly. —S.H. and citrus and pear flavors. A nice partner to roasted ical fruit flavors are grounded by herbs and minerals, abv: 13.7% Price: $38 chicken or broiled halibut. —S.H. elaborated by smoky oak. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 14.7% Price: $24 Lucia 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Lu- 87 cia Highlands). This shows that apricotty, Morro Bay 2010 Split Oak Estates Sur Lie Fenestra 2010 Chardonnay (Livermore botrytised aroma and flavor often found in Santa Lucia 88 Chardonnay (California). For full review 87 Valley). Lightly floral and quite Burgundian Chardonnays from the cooler parts of the appellation, see page 12. Best Buy. aromatically, this wine exudes a mixture of caramel and but it’s not at all sweet. Instead, it’s a bone-dry wine, abv: 13.9% Price: $11 earth amid a full-bodied texture and racy acidity. —V.B. with vibrant acidity. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $18 abv: NA Price: $40 Parducci 2010 Small Lot Blend Chardon- 88 nay (Mendocino County). A light-golden Folie à Deux 2010 Chardonnay (Rus- Maldonado 2009 Los Olivos Vineyard Chardonnay that does its county proud. It’s lively and 87 sian River Valley). A fine Chardonnay, brisk 87 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Rich in flavors bright, with medium weight and flavors of sweet lemon in acidity and dry, with complex citrus, peach and pear of buttered toast, buttered popcorn, vanilla, pineap- custard, apple, and a lime-zest-dominated finish. This is flavors, enhanced with smoky oak. Drink now before it ple, orange and apricot jam, this is an elaborate Char- a very good wine at a very fair price that should pair with loses its freshness. —S.H. donnay. It’s a very lush offering, honey sweet on the an assortment of dinner fare. Best Buy. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $18 finish. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 14.5% Price: $42 Herzog 2009 Special Reserve Chardon- Pride Mountain 2010 Chardonnay (Napa 87 nay (Russian River Valley). There’s lots to McIntyre Vineyards 2010 Estate Block 88 Valley). Bone dry and strong, this Chardonnay like in this Chardonnay, from the pineapple, orange 87 K-1 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia High- displays concentrated citrus, apricot and peach flavors and peach fruit, to the creamy texture, crisp acidity and lands). A big, strong Chardonnay that’s impressive for that are heavily influenced by the toast of oak barrels. smoky oak. But it tastes a bit jammy sweet. —S.H. it’s sheer power. This offers in-your-face flavors of pine- It’s flashy, although a touch heavy and meant for con- abv: 14% Price: $36 apple and apricot jam and oak. It’s rich and opulent, but suming now. —S.H. lacks some delicacy and grace. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $38 abv: 14.4% Price: $38

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 Sonoma-Loeb 2010 Private Reserve Strong and eccentric, this tastes like the grapes from this ity of this wine are instantly apparent, lending grip and 87 Chardonnay (Carneros). Buttered toast, fine vineyard had a hit of botrytis. But it’s not sweet; the bite. But its flavors of orange and apricot jam seem a bit buttered popcorn and caramelly-vanilla flavors domi- end result is dry, with apricot and honey flavors. —S.H. sweet. —S.H. nate this wine. Fortunately, a strong punch of pineapple abv: 13.8% Price: $42 abv: 13.8% Price: $13 and orange jam stands up to all that barrel influence. —S.H. Windsor Sonoma 2010 Chardonnay Discoveries Vineyards 2009 Chardonnay abv: 14.5% Price: $28 86 (Russian River Valley). This has orange, 84 (California). For ten bucks, you get a good, pineapple and green apple flavors that are accented by everyday Chardonnay. It has creamy, fruity flavors and a Truchard 2010 Chardonnay (Carneros). oaky caramel. Balanced with crisp, citrusy acidity, this clean finish. —S.H. 87 This is a rather austere, tough Chardonnay. should pair well with rich shellfish fare. Drink now. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Bone dry, it’s marked by brisk acidity, minerality and —S.H. citrus flavors, with a touch of apricot that’s reminiscent abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Joullian 2009 Chardonnay (Monterey). of botrytis. —S.H. 84 This has lots of tropical and apricot flavors, with abv: 14.1% Price: $30 Chronicle 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma oak and creamy lees notes. It’s simple and a bit sweet, 85 Coast). Made in a style to appeal to today’s but should appeal to consumers. —S.H. Viszlay Vineyards 2010 Estate Bottled Chardonnay fans, this has flavors of buttered toast, pop- abv: 14.1% Price: $25 87 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). A corn, vanilla, pineapple and Key lime pie, with crisp good, brisk Chardonnay, dry and honest. Not flashy or acidity. —S.H. Judd’s Hill 2009 Chardonnay (Napa Val- dramatic, it pulls its punches, with a deft touch of min- abv: 13.1% Price: $36 84 ley). The pineapple, orange and vanilla flavors erals, peaches and vanilla. —S.H. seem a bit thin. But it’s nicely dry, with a clean burst of abv: 13.6% Price: $25 Eberle 2010 Estate Chardonnay (Paso acidity. —S.H. 85 Robles). Almost as sweet as a , abv: 14.5% Price: $40 Alderbrook 2009 Chardonnay (Russian with caramel, butterscotch and honey flavors riding 86 River Valley). Simple and honey sweet, made over the underlying pineapple and peach notes. An Magistrate 2010 Limited Production in the popular style, with jammy apricot, nectarine and enjoyable quaff. —S.H. 84 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). citrus flavors. Bright acidity provides clean balance. abv: 13.9% Price: $20 This is a strongly flavored wine, offering a blast of vanil- —S.H. la, buttered toast, caramel, honey, and orange and apri- abv: 13.8% Price: $24 Handley 2010 Estate Vineyard Chardon- cot jam flavors. —S.H. 85 nay (Anderson Valley). Made in a style to abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Cartlidge & Browne 2010 Chardonnay appeal to the masses, this is a soft, sweet Chardonnay. 86 (North Coast). Flavors of creamy vanilla It’s rich in vanilla cream, pineapple and orange jam and Pali 2010 Charm Acres Chardonnay (So- pudding, buttered toast and pineapple jam mark this buttered toast flavors. —S.H. 84 noma Coast). Sweet and simple, with flavors slightly sweet Chardonnay. A crisp streak of acidity pro- abv: 12.5% Price: $22 of buttered toast, popcorn, white sugar and pineapple vides much needed balance to the richness. —S.H. jam. Crisp acidity helps for balance. It’s not really a dry abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Havens 2009 Chardonnay (Oakville). , but it’s a good example of its style. —S.H. 85 Few produce an Oakville Chardon- abv: 13.9% Price: $20 Laetitia 2010 Estate Chardonnay (Arroyo nay. This is a soft and heavy effort, with apricot and 86 Grande Valley). Rich, ripe and oaky, with tangerine flavors. —S.H. Vine Hill 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz crisp acidity and notes of pineapple jam and buttered abv: 14.3% Price: $45 84 Mountains). Firm and dry, with tart acids and toast. Tasty and flashy, but is marked with a slightly minerals, this Chardonnay’s fruit veers toward golden vegetal flavor. —S.H. Michael Pozzan 2010 Chardonnay (Rus- apricots and herbs. Not showing much richness now. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 85 sian River Valley). As sweet as a dessert pas- Drink up. —S.H. try, with vanilla, cream, toast, butter and pineapple jam abv: 13.1% Price: $24 Maldonado 2009 Parr Vineyard Chardon- flavors. Vibrant acidity provides balance just in time. 86 nay (Sonoma County). Sweet and soft, this —S.H. VML 2010 Chardonnay (Russian River simple Chardonnay has flavors of oranges, pineapples, abv: 13.5% Price: $15 84 Valley). Sweet oak dominates, making it taste vanilla, cream and buttered toast. It’s made in a style to like buttered toast dipped into wine. The pineapple and appeal. —S.H. Picket Fence 2010 Chardonnay (Russian orange fruit underneath all that wood is just fine. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $29 85 River Valley). Made in the popular style, this abv: 14.6% Price: $25 will find plenty of fans. It’s sweet and creamy in but- Sanglier Cellars 2010 Chardonnay (So- tered toast, pineapple and pear flavors. —S.H. Brander 2009 Los Olivos Vineyard Char- 86 noma Coast). This is a dry, minerally and abv: 13.8% Price: $15 83 donnay (Santa Ynez Valley). This is dry and acidic Chardonnay, with just enough of a squeeze of vital in acidity, but it seems slightly underripe. Raw cit- lemon and lime to satisfy. Drink this austere wine with Tangley Oaks 2009 Lot #6 Chardonnay rus and asparagus flavors mark the sharp finish. —S.H. roast chicken, broiled halibut and vegetable tempura. 85 (Sonoma Coast). This is a big, sweet, extract- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 —S.H. ed wine, for those who like Chardonnay packed with abv: 13.9% Price: $30 fruit. It tastes like buttered popcorn, orange jam, gin- gerbread and vanilla caramel. —S.H. Santa Barbara Winery 2009 Reserve abv: 14.2% Price: $15 Dutton-Goldfield 2011 Dutton Ranch 86 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Dominated by Shop Block Pinot Blanc (Green Valley). Cameron Hughes 2010 Lot 314 Chardon- 92 sweet oak and sweet fruit, this Chardonnay is made to This is great white wine, especially at this price. With no nay (Atlas Peak). This is a simple wine, with appeal to consumers who enjoy the popular style. This 84 oak, it shows pure, clean orange, pineapple, fig and va- orange, lime and vanilla flavors. Despite brisk acidity, it tastes like orange and lemon jam, with body from the nilla flavors that are brightened by crisp acidity. Flashy quickly turns cloying. —S.H. alcohol. —S.H. and showy, yet complex, it’s a beautiful wine to drink abv: 14.2% Price: $13 abv: 14.4% Price: $22 now. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Suacci Carciere Wines 2009 Heintz Vine- Cameron Hughes 2010 Lot 320 Chardon- 86 yard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). 84 nay (Arroyo Seco). The acidity and mineral-

WineMag.com | 17 Donati 2010 Pinot Blanc (Paicines). Tast- Discoveries Vineyards 2010 Pinot Grigio tangerine and Meyer lemon flavors touched with a 90 ing similar to Chardonnay, this has a buttery, 84 (California). For the price this is a nice party slight sweetness. —S.H. creamy texture that frames orange, citrus and tropi- wine. It’s sweet, offering ripe citrus and vanilla flavors. abv: 13.2% Price: $19 cal fruit flavors. It gains extra points for delicacy and Production was 5,400 cases. —S.H. balance. The appellation is in San Benito County, about abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Lail 2010 Blueprint 25 miles inland from Monterey. Editors’ Choice. 87 (Napa Valley). This 100% Sauvignon Blanc is —S.H. Quickfire 2010 Top Chef Pinot Gris (Rus- forward in citrus, floral, spice and honey flavors, bright- abv: 14.1% Price: $20 84 sian River Valley). This tastes soft and sweet, ened with crisp acidity. A little heavy and full bodied, with citrus, green apple and apricot flavors. It’s an easy this has a touch of green gooseberry that makes it exotic Chateau Molyneaux 2010 Estate Bottled wine to drink with slightly-sweet southeast Asian fare. and New Zealand style. —S.H. 86 Pinot Blanc (Livermore Valley). This thick, —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $35 rich white has aromas of toasted oak and corn nuts, abv: 13.8% Price: $18 chased by a note of petrol. It’s a good white to pair with Quickfire 2010 Top Chef Sauvignon seriously hearty fare or sharp cheeses. —V.B. Rexford 2010 Regan Vineyard Pi- 85 Blanc (Napa Valley). A clean, lively Sauvi- abv: 13.3% Price: $24 84 not Gris (Santa Cruz Moun- gnon Blanc, whose tart acidity gives a brisk mouthfeel. tains). This seems heavy and sweet for a Pi- The fruit is very ripe and sugary sweet in green apples, not Gris, with flavors of white sugar, orange and pears and tangerines. Make it drier, and the score would PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO vanilla. —S.H. improve considerably. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $22 abv: 14.2% Price: $18 Chamisal Vineyards 2011 Pinot Gris (Edna Valley). So dry and zesty in acidity, it 92 Seven Daughters NV Pinot Grigio (Cali- Greystone 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Cali- really gets the tastebuds watering. The flavors start slow, fornia). Sugary and sweet, this bottling has tan- fornia). One of the first wines to be released then crank up toward the finish, suggesting ripe white 84 84 gerine, pear and vanilla flavors. For the price, it’s a good from the 2011 vintage, this Sauvignon Blanc shows how peaches, summer white flowers and savory spices. Deli- party wine. —S.H. chilly the year was. It’s barely ripe, showing dry, acid- cate and elegant, this is what Pinot Gris ought to be. abv: 13.8% Price: $13 ic citrus and mineral flavors, with a green, minty edge. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 abv: 13.5% Price: $11 SAUVIGNON BLANC Kenwood 2011 Pinot Gris (Russian River Kenwood 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (So- Valley). For full review see page 8. Editors’ Stonestreet 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Al- 91 noma County). This is a good everyday Sauvi- Choice. exander Valley). A very fine Sauvignon Blanc 84 91 gnon Blanc for drinking with chicken, ham sandwiches abv: 13.5% Price: $16 that’s pure, fresh and crisp. This shows uplifted cit- or fish tacos. Slightly sweet in orange and vanilla, it’s ac- rus fruit, gooseberry, date and spice flavors. It’s an ex- companied by crisp acidity. —S.H. Benessere 2010 Pinot Grigio (Napa Val- cellent example of the variety; only 387 cases were abv: 13.5% Price: $12 88 ley). This has zesty acidity that lends a mouth- produced. —S.H. watering briskness to the citrus, peach and spice flavors. abv: 14.6% Price: $35 Hill Wine Company 2010 Sauvignon Easy to like as a cocktail sipper, or paired with Chinese Blanc (Napa Valley). Although this is dry and food and tempura. —S.H. Joullian 2010 Estate Reserve Sauvignon 82 nicely tart in acidity, it’s unripe and green, with a severe abv: 13.9% Price: $22 Blanc (Carmel Valley). This is very rich and 89 feline aroma to the citrus fruits. —S.H. complicated, with oak and lees adding creamy, smoky abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Forenzo 2010 Pinot Grigio (Redwood notes to the ripe citrus, peach and pear flavors. It seems 88 Valley). A beautiful, minerally Pinot Grigio just a little candied, in the California way, but it’s clean and faintly sweet but entirely refreshing. It tastes of barely varietally proper. —S.H. ripe apricot, lemon and grapefruit rind. Aged entirely in abv: 12.6% Price: $26 stainless steel. —V.B. Arrowood 2009 Saralee’s Vineyard Viog- abv: 14.34% Price: $18 Vogelzang 2010 Birdsong Sauvignon 95 nier (Russian River Valley). A brilliant, 88 Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). completely satisfying Viognier that shows its sunny Balletto 2010 Estate Bottled Pinot Gris Having fermented in neutral oak and stainless-steel California terroir in the ripe lemon, peach and mango 87 (Russian River Valley). A very nice Pinot tanks, this wine’s savory lemongrass, peach and spice flavors. It finishes dry, with a steely minerality, like Gris, with excellent acidity and rich flavors of citrus and flavors shine through. This is rich and elegant, with stones and cold metal. Just gorgeous, one of the finest honey. With steely minerality, it tastes clean and tangy. brisk acidity bringing balance and cleanness to the pal- California ever. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. —S.H. ate. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $30 abv: 13.8% Price: $18 abv: 14.2% Price: $20 Vogelzang 2010 Birdsong Viognier (Hap- Fenestra 2010 Pinot Gris (Livermore Val- Ferrari-Carano 2011 Fumé Blanc (So- 91 py Canyon of Santa Barbara). This is brim- 87 ley). A pretty wine, with flavors of flowers and 87 noma County). A little on the sweet side, but ming with the tropical fruit, vanilla and honeysuckle fla- cream that have some heft. The finish is austere yet crisp acidity provides a clean whisk of tartness, and the vors typical of Viognier. Dry and elegant, it is ripe, but refreshing, with a lemony note. Easy drinking, this is a lemon-cream and orange flavors are absolutely deli- shows the acidity from the cool 2010 vintage. Editors’ Pinot Gris that would pair well with tangy seafood. cious. —S.H. Choice. —S.H. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $15 abv: 14.2% Price: $20 abv: 13.6% Price: $17 Hanna 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian Ampelos 2011 Psi Viognier (Santa Ynez Handley 2010 Pinot Gris (Anderson Val- 87 River Valley). Sauvignon Blanc has been a 87 Valley). Tastes sweeter than past vintages, with 86 ley). This comes down on the sweet side, with consistent performer for Hanna, usually yielding a rich, flavors of oranges, peaches, honey and vanilla. But the orange, apricot and peach jam flavors. But the acidity ripe wine with brisk acidity. The ’11 is one of their best acidity is brisk, providing balance. It’s easy to like for its is bright and clean. If you don’t like sweet California efforts. It’s tart, clean and savory, with the pineapple, clean finish. —S.H. wines, this isn’t for you. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $25 abv: 14.4% Price: $18

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 Eberle 2010 Mill Road Vineyard Viognier full bodied. A slight spiciness marks the finish, with a partner with lots of foods, like ham, roast chicken and 87 (Paso Robles). This reveals honeyed flavors note of lime salt. It should pair well with a roast chicken cioppino. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. of orange, peach, mango and vanilla. Zesty in acidity, it and spicy stuffing. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $18 shows a nice formula for ripe Viognier, with a touch of abv: 12.5% Price: $30 oak and a sur lie influence that gives it a creamy mouth- Benessere 2011 Rosato (Napa Valley). feel. —S.H. Castello di Amorosa 2010 Gewürztra- 85 This is a simple, sweet blush wine, with jammy abv: 14.9% Price: $21 87 miner (Mendocino County). Rich in spice, raspberry and cherry flavors. It finishes with a swirl of peach, tangerine and honeysuckle flavors, this Gewürz- spices. —S.H. Pride Mountain 2010 Viognier (Sonoma traminer finishes a little sweet. This is a savory wine for abv: 13.5% Price: $16 86 County). This is a powerful wine, almost too drinking now—especially with Asian fare. —S.H. powerful for its own good, with forward citrus, tropical abv: NA Price: $21 Ampelos 2011 Upsilon Rosé of Syrah fruit and vanilla-oak flavors. —S.H. 84 (Santa Ynez Valley). Darkly colored, heavy abv: 14.8% Price: $42 Castello di Amorosa 2010 Dolcino and sweet for a rosé, with raspberry jam flavors. It lacks 87 Gewürztraminer (Anderson Valley). This the dry vibrancy desired in blush wine. —S.H. polished Gewürztraminer straddles the line between off abv: 13.6% Price: $16 WHITE BLENDS dry and sweet. Rich in peach, pear, orange and spice fla- vors, it’s a little too soft, but it should make for a pleasant Lucy 2011 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Santa Lu- Volker Eisele Family Estate 2010 Gemini apéritif and should pair well with Asian cuisine. —S.H. cia Highlands). Rather heavy and sweet for Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). 84 89 abv: NA Price: $21 a rosé, with a dark, ruby-garnet color, and flavors of A product of the cool 2010 vintage, this has a green, cherry-pie filling, vanilla and clove. Brisk Santa Lucia minty flavor, with notes of lemon and lime. It’s not the Eberle 2010 Estate Muscat Canelli (Paso acidity keeps it alive. —S.H. richest wine, but with its bright, mouthwatering acidity Robles). This bottling has consistently been abv: 14.1% Price: $18 it should be nice a cocktail sipper, and should pair well 87 one of Eberle’s specialties for quality and price for with spicy Asian fare. —S.H. many years, and it still is. With residual sugar of 5.6%, abv: 14.1% Price: $25 it’s sweet in honey, apricot, orange, guava and Meyer RED BLENDS lemon flavors, brightened by crisp acidity. —S.H. Eberle 2010 Côtes-du-Rôbles Blanc Verité 2007 La Muse (Sonoma abv: 12.4% Price: $14 87 (Paso Robles). Easy, appealing and frankly 100Couty).This wine dazzles with perfection. sweet, this is very rich in citrus, tropical fruit and hon- Sourced from vineyards throughout Sonoma County, Fenestra 2010 Silvaspoons Vineyard ey flavors. A blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and it refutes the belief that a great Cabernet must come Verdelho (Lodi). A Verdelho with a taste of Viognier. —S.H. 87 from a single vineyard. It does not. The master’s art of nuts—like Marcona almonds—it gets more fruity and abv: 14.1% Price: $24 blending, coupled with demanding vineyard practices aromatic after a good swirl. This is marked by a tangy lends completeness. The blend is 85% Merlot, 10% sweetness on the finish. —V.B. Fenestra 2010 Semonnay Chardonnay- Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec, making it an extraor- abv: 14.1% Price: $15 86 Semillon (Livermore Valley). This blend of dinary success despite the absence of Cabernet Sauvi- of 51% Chardonnay and 49% Semillon tastes big and gnon. Give credit to winemaker Pierre Seillan. The wine Fenestra 2010 Riesling (Arroyo Seco). A ripe, mostly of pineapple, guava and very-ripe pear, with itself is absolutely dry. It starts with a tug of tannins, Riesling that’s quite sweet, its best feature is its a rich vanilla finish. —V.B. 85 baring flavors of blackberries, black currants, miner- perfumed, flowery nose. It’s tropical flavors come off as abv: 13.5% Price: $16 als and new oak, with earthy, herbal and meaty com- slightly too sweet, so try pairing it with a simple pear plexities. This is a magnificent wine; it dazzles now and tart. —V.B. Cambridge & Sunset NV The Clippings should evolve over the next 6–8 years. —S.H. abv: 13.6% Price: $15 82 (California). Fans of sweet white wines abv: 14.4% Price: $450 will enjoy this blend, which includes Chardonnay, Discoveries Vineyards 2010 Moscato Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer. It has candied Verité 2008 Le Desir (Sonoma County). (California). You can technically call this a ta- orange and apricot flavors. —S.H. 84 The 2008 vintage presented challenges for ble wine, but it’s really sweet, with orange and honey 97 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Cabernet Sauvignon, but this Cabernet Franc-based flavors. —S.H. blend succeeds wildly. It’s bone dry, tannic and enor- abv: 13.5% Price: $10 mously complex, with flavors of sour-cherry candy, red OTHER WHITE WINES currant, licorice and spicy cola. Ninety-five percent new Bonterra 2010 Riesling (Lake County- ROSÉ oak lends this a wonderful toastiness. Few wines could Mendocino County). A delightful Riesling, handle that much new wood, but this one can. However, 88 Lynmar 2011 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian sweetly aromatic, and balanced with some residual sug- it’s very tannic. You can drink it now, but it should blos- River Valley). One of the best California rosés ar. It has well-crafted flavors of pear and vanilla. —V.B. 92 som after 2014. —S.H. of the last several years. It’s light bodied, crisply acidic, abv: 12.8% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $450 and ultrarefined, with flavors of polished rose, herbal tea, strawberry and spice. So clean and so pure, this is Lee Family Farm 2010 Silvaspoons Vine- Verité 2007 Le Desir (Sonoma County). wonderfully dry on the finish. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. yard Verdelho (Alta Mesa). This lovely 97 A spectacular wine that defines the upper limit 88 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Verdelho is perfumed with jasmine and apricot. It’s of California Bordeaux-style blends. Based on Cabernet crisp and creamy while also tasting refreshing and light. Franc and Merlot, with splashes of Cabernet Sauvignon Balletto 2011 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Rus- The finish is all lime salt and minerality. Pour it at an and Malbec, this is delicious and complex, offering a sian River Valley). For full review see page outdoor soirée or sip it while cooking dinner. Best Buy. 90 blast of blackberry, blueberry-concentrate and mineral 9. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. flavors. Comprised of fruit grown throughout Sonoma abv: 13.8% Price: $18 abv: 13.2% Price: $15 County, this is a masterpiece of the art of blending. Ab- solutely dry and very hard in tannins, drink this from Trattore 2011 Grenache Rosé (Dry Creek Stonehedge 2010 Terroir Select Gewürz- 2013–2022. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Valley). One of the better bistro-style rosés in traminer (Mendocino County). Fragrant 89 abv: 14.2% Price: $450 88 California, this one shows fresh, zesty raspberry and with lime, stone, apricot and flowers, this Gewürz- strawberry flavors. Brightened by crisp acidity, it’s a nice traminer is deliciously dry and slightly crisp yet

WineMag.com | 19 Verité 2007 La Joie (Sonoma County). nins and a tang of acidity, this non-vintage Bordeaux Vina Robles 2008 Suendero (Paso Ro- 96 The blend is mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, with blend turns rich in blackberry and black currant flavors 88 bles). Enormously rich and sweet in jammy the other four classic Bordeaux varieties added for on the midpalate. It’s very dry, despite the sweet fruit. blackberries and cherries, sprinkled with brown sugar complexity. The grapes were sourced from vineyards You can drink it now, but it’s tannic enough to hold over and cinnamon spice, this wine is a blend of Cabernet throughout Sonoma County, and the finished wine was at least the next eight years. —S.H. Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. You can taste that famous aged in 75% new oak. It’s very fine, with concentrated, abv: 14.2% Price: $125 Paso Robles sun in every sip, but the wine is a bit too intense blackberry, cherry and crème de cassis flavors. high in alcohol, giving it warmth on the finish. —S.H. Minerality, in the form of granite, lends a lick of stone. Vina Robles 2008 Syrée (Paso Robles). abv: 15.5% Price: $49 It’s still extremely tannic, and needs much more time- 90 For full review see page 11. before it begins to come around. Cellar Selection. abv: 15.5% Price: $39 Benessere 2007 Phenomenon (Napa Val- —S.H. 87 ley). Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangio- abv: 14.4% Price: $450 Alienor 2009 Grand Vin (Lake Coun- vese and other varieties, this is a charming red wine for 89 ty). Alienor Grand Vin hails from Kelseyville, drinking now. It’s definitely on the sweet side, like cher- Verité 2008 La Joie (Sonoma County). in Lake County, a fine place for Bordeaux varieties. A ry pie with a toasty crust. —S.H. 94 Right now this is not typically soft and lush like blend of 51% Merlot, 48% Cabernet Franc and 1% Pe- abv: 14.5% Price: $50 a cult Cab, but hard in tannins, with minerality like lit- tit Verdot, this is highly structured with a lot of herbal tle particles of granite. Buried deep down is a pirate’s intensity. The typical fruit forwardness of many Califor- Epiphany 2009 Revelation (Santa Barba- treasure of ripe, intense blackberry fruit. New oak, to nia reds is subdued; the wine may need time for the 87 ra County). This is a blend of Grenache Noir the tune of 94%, doesn’t cloud the wine, suggesting fruit to make its way through. —V.B. and Syrah. It’s enormously rich in blackberry, cherry this blend’s its intensity and concentration. The wine is abv: 13.8% Price: $65 and cola fruit, with a long, spicy finish. It’s a flashy wine, comprised of all five classic Bordeaux varieties, sourced with its glycerine lending an overall softness. —S.H. throughout Sonoma County. Clearly this is one for the Matanzas Creek 2009 Journey (Sonoma abv: 15.2% Price: $40 cellar; drink after 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 89 County). Give this dynamic young Cabernet abv: 14% Price: $450 blend a good decanting or a little time in the cellar to Havens 2009 Bourriquot (Napa Valley). mellow and let its edges round off. It’s tannins are hard 87 This has direct blackberry and cherry jam fla- Pride Mountain 2008 Reserve Claret and astringent, masking the blackberries and black cur- vors, and is a little one-dimensional and candy sweet. 93 (Napa-Sonoma). Few Bordeaux-style wines rants. Not one for the long haul, but 3–4 years should But if you’re a gambler, put it in the cellar and try again in California are as ripe and bold as this, but that’s the do the trick. —S.H. after six years. —S.H. Pride style. The wine explodes in spicy blackberry, cur- abv: 14.8% Price: $155 abv: 14.3% Price: $65 rant and cherry fruit, almost like punch, while oak adds toasty notes. A heady wine, it’s also brutally firm in tan- Ampelos 2008 Sigma Syrache Syrah-Gr- Star Lane Vineyard 2007 Estate Red nins. It’s a little warm in alcohol, but that shouldn’t keep 88 enache (Santa Barbara County). A little 87 (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). This it from aging for at least eight years—and maybe longer. tough, a little refined, this is a town-and-country wine blend remains severely tannic, but it’s also very ripe, Cellar Selection. —S.H. for drinking now. It has ripe cherry, red currant, ba- with flavors of baked cherries, blackberries and prunes. abv: 15% Price: $130 con and sandalwood flavors, spiced with pepper and It’s a big, deep, dark, brooding wine that’s probably at wrapped into firm tannins. —S.H. its best now. —S.H. St. Supéry 2007 Élu Red Wine (Napa Val- abv: 14.2% Price: $28 abv: 14.7% Price: $42 93 ley). For full review see page 5. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 Dogwood 2007 Meritage (Mendocino). A Ridge 2010 Geyserville Red (Sonoma 88 Meritage that’s 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% 86 County). Rustic in texture, with jagged tan- Verité 2008 La Muse (Sonoma County). A Merlot, this wine is all leathery pouch—still chewy but nins, this is an old-fashioned wine, the kind they drank 93 pinch of hard tannins gives this bone-dry young with lots of well-intentioned structure and big blackber- straight out of the cellar a long time ago. Made from wine an astringent toughness. It shows very fine, con- ry flavor. —V.B. , and several other varieties, it’s dry centrated black-cherry, cocoa and crème de cassis fla- abv: 14.5% Price: $40 and tannic, with berry, currant and spice flavors. —S.H. vors. Aging in almost 100% new French oak adds notes abv: 14.3% Price: $37 of toast that the fruit easily tolerates. Nearly all Mer- Envy 2009 Bee Bee’s Blend Estate (Cal- lot, it’s a wine of considerable volume, but nowhere 88 istoga). A little rustic and rough in texture, but Curtis 2009 Heritage Cuvée (Santa Bar- near ready to drink. Give it at least six years in a proper otherwise this is a nice, dry wine. It’s also pretty fierce 85 bara County). This light-bodied Rhône-style cellar, and it could be one of the rare Merlot-based Cali- in tannins, but offers polished blackberry, cured-meat, blend is mostly Grenache and Mourvèdre. It’s simple fornia wines capable of extended aging. Cellar Selec- pepper and cedar flavors. Could gain in the bottle over and easy to drink, with flavors of raspberries, cherries tion. —S.H. the next 4–5 years. —S.H. and spices. Give it a bit of a chill and pair it with a ham- abv: 14.5% Price: $450 abv: 14.5% Price: $48 burger. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $22 Bernardus 2009 Marinus Red Wine (Car- Lyeth 2010 Meritage (Sonoma County). 92 mel Valley). For full review see page 6. 88 An easy, gentle wine, soft and velvety in texture, Lange Twins 2008 Midnight Reserve abv: 14.1% Price: $46 offering jammy flavors of blackberries, cherries, rasp- 85 (Lodi). The Lange Twins are longtime growers berries and oak. Earns extra points for dryness and a in Lodi who also make their own wine, with the help Andrew Murray 2009 Espérance (Cen- richly tannic structure. —S.H. of former Woodbridge winemaker David Akiyoshi. This 91 tral Coast). Rhône specialist Andrew Mur- abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Bordeaux blend is mostly Petit Verdot and Cabernet, ray has succeeded with this lovely blend of Grenache, with smaller amounts of Merlot and Malbec in the mix. Syrah and Mourvèdre. Drinkable now, it’s soft, tannic Six Sigma 2008 Cuvée (Lake County). A The time this spent aging in French oak shows through and bone dry, with tantalizing blackberry, cherry, spice 88 Bordeaux blend with all the usual suspects (ex- in its minty, full mouthfeel and vanilla tannins. —V.B. and sandalwood flavors. This is a versatile, elegant food cept Malbec), Six Sigma’s Cuvee has a huge Cabernet abv: 13.9% Price: $30 wine. —S.H. Sauvignon nose, all dark berry and plum with a hint abv: 15% Price: $25 of lavender. It has a huge brick wall of structure, with Schulz 2009 Communication Block dusty tannins that finish long and meaty, and a slight 85 (Mount Veeder). This is full bodied, tan- Freemark Abbey NV 125th Anniversary blip of just-ripe blackberry. —V.B. nic and concentrated, in the way of Mount Veeder red 91 History (Napa Valley). Marked by gritty tan- abv: 14.4% Price: $18

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 wines. It’s also sweet and high in alcohol, with jammy Ferriere Vineyards 2003 Cabernet Franc Lancaster 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvi- blackberry flavors. —S.H. 88 (Sierra Foothills). Woody and aromatic of 94 gnon (Alexander Valley). For full review see abv: 15.2% Price: $50 muggy earth, this has a spicy, tannic finish and a big- page 4. time structure. Its aromas at first veer on the funky side, abv: 14.6% Price: $85 Novy 2010 Four Mile Creek (North but then they swirl into tar and spicy, cinnamon berry. 84 Coast). A rugged, simple wine, with —V.B. Stonestreet 2009 Christopher’s Caber- raspberry, cherry and spice flavors. Drink it with every- abv: 14.8% Price: $30 94 net Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). A big, day fare, like burgers or chicken tacos. —S.H. thick, massive Cabernet, impressive for sheer volume. abv: 14.5% Price: $12 Ferriere Vineyards 2003 Raven Oaks Yet it’s very tannic and dry. Deep down inside is an in- 87 VIneyards Cabernet Franc (Sierra Foot- tense core of concentrated blackberry essence, coated Cameron Hughes 2010 Lot 313 Field hills). A wine bearing flavors of dark cherry and earth, in smoky new oak. This feels dramatic and important, 83 Blend (California). Tough and gritty, this Zin- with bright and silky tannins, and a dusting of cocoa but nowhere near ready. Give it eight years in the cellar. fandel-based blend has brusque tannins and sweet ber- on the finish. This may now be in its prime; drink now. Cellar Selection. —S.H. ry, black pepper and cola flavors. Drink this lusty wine —V.B. abv: 15% Price: $100 with everyday fare. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $11 Anakota 2008 Helena Dakota Cabernet MICA Cellars 2009 Babcock Vineyard 93 Sauvignon (Knights Valley). Tastes big, St. Francis 2007 Red Splash (Sonoma 87 Cabernet Franc (Suisun Valley). This wine thick and full-bodied, with ripe fruit and new oak dom- 83 County). Hearty and rustic, this is a blend of has the variety’s trademark notes of herb, green bell pep- inating. The particular flavors are of blackberries and several varieties—including Cabernet Sauvignon, Mer- per, with a woodsy qulaity. This is a full-bodied effort, black currants. The tannins are fierce and dry, making lot and Syrah—it’s an all-purpose, slightly sweet red bearing a long, spicy finish. —V.B. the wine barely drinkable now. Cellar it until 2015, at wine for drinking with spaghetti and meatballs, burgers abv: 14.2% Price: $30 the very least. Cellar Selection. —S.H. and chili. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 abv: 14.5% Price: $10 CABERNET SAUVIGNON Anakota 2008 Helena Montana Cabernet Cambridge & Sunset NV The Grass Cut- Sauvignon (Knights Valley). Goldschmidt 2006 Plus Game Ranch Sin- 93 This is a big, ter Red (California). Rustic and simple, this 82 gle Vineyard Selection Cabernet Sauvi- rich, dramatic Cabernet, marked with flavors of ripe has some decent cherry-berry flavors. Drink up. —S.H. 98 blackberry and black currant. It’s clearly a pedigreed gnon (Oakville). For full review see page 3. abv: 13.9% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $150 wine, yet it’s young and aggressive in tannins, making it astringent. Cellar it for a good eight years, to see what it Arrowhead Mountain 2008 Primary Red Jarvis 2006 Estate Grown Cave Ferment- can do. Cellar Selection. —S.H. (Sonoma Valley). This smells and tastes 80 ed Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa abv: 14.6% Price: $75 rather vegetal; it lacks richness and comes across a bit 96 Valley). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. sweet. —S.H. Chappellet 2009 Signature Cabernet abv: 14.8% Price: $245 abv: 15% Price: $40 93 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Another terrific - CREO 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Chalk Signature Cabernet from Chappellet. This has prima- CABERNET FRANC 95 Hill). For full review see page 3. ry blackberry and cherry-jam flavors, with an addition- abv: 14.8% Price: $75 al note of toasty oak. The tannins and acids are excel- La Jota Vineyard 2009 Cabernet Franc lent, lending structure to the richness. The result is a 94 (Howell Mountain). Hard to describe the bal- La Jota Vineyard 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- wonderfully-complex Napa Cabernet that should devel- ance and elegance of this Cabernet Franc, although it’s 95 gnon (Howell Mountain). For full review see op over the next six years. —S.H. pretty hard in tannins. Below that is a fabulous core of page 3. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.9% Price: $49 blackberry, black cherry and mineral flavors. Rich, com- abv: 14.8% Price: $65 plex and dramatic, this is arguably one of the best Cab Mt. Brave 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon ernet Francs on the market. Drink now–2017. —S.H. Aloft 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (How- 93 (Mount Veeder). For full review see page 5. abv: 14.6% Price: $75 94 ell Mountain). Peter Mondavi Sr. and his two Cellar Selection. sons, Peter Jr. and Marc have crafted a big, tannic and abv: 14.8% Price: $75 Jarvis 2007 Estate Grown Cave Ferment- ageworthy wine. It’s packed with massive blackberry 92 ed Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). For full fruit, with the hard tannins and minerality common of Pride Mountain 2008 Reserve Cabernet review see page 6. Howell Mountain. Don’t even think of opening this be- 93 Sauvignon (Napa-Sonoma). Abundantly abv: 14.7% Price: $80 fore 2016; it should develop well beyond that. Cellar rich in fruit, this Cabernet shows its California origins in Selection. —S.H. the incredibly ripe blackberry, cherry and chocolate fla- Titus 2009 Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley). abv: 15.5% Price: $150 vors. It’s sweet, almost like pie filling, except the finish is 90 One of the lusher, more delicious Cab Francs thoroughly dry. Thick mountain tannins make for astrin- out there. It’s enormous in baked cherry pie flavors, Arrowood 2008 Reserve Speciale Cab- gency, suggesting ageworthiness. The window of drink- with the spicy, smoky crust, and a little heat from alco- 94 ernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). One ability looks like 2014-2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H. hol. Drink this generous wine while it’s still fresh and taste is all it takes to fall in love with this Cabernet. abv: 15.2% Price: $130 young. —S.H. Made from Sonoma Valley and Knights Valley fruit, it’s abv: 14.5% Price: $36 wonderfully sweet and deep in blackberry and cherry- Steven Kent 2008 Ghielmetti Vineyard jam flavors, with near-perfect tannins and a judicious 93 Clone Thirty Cabernet Sauvignon (Liver- Andis Wines 2010 Bill’s Block Cabernet touch of oak. Great for drinking now and over the next more Valley). For full review see page 5. Cellar Se- 88 Franc (Sierra Foothills). Still quite young, six years. —S.H. lection. this 100% Cabernet Franc shows great promise with abv: 15.5% Price: $90 abv: 14.3% Price: $100 more cellar aging. It’s respectful of what that grape can do, with smoky overtones amid layers of green olive, ce- Au Sommet 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Steven Kent 2008 Smith Ranch Cabernet dar and pepper. The finish has a bite of minty cocoa. 94 (Atlas Peak). For full review see page 4. Cel- 93 Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). For full re- Cellar Selection. —V.B. lar Selection. view see page 5. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.9% Price: $28 abv: 14.3% Price: $250 abv: 14.8% Price: $60

WineMag.com | 21 Stonestreet 2009 Monument Ridge Cab- Buehler 2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Freemark Abbey 2008 Sycamore Vine- 93 ernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). For 90 (St. Helena). For full review see page 9. Cel- 87 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice. lar Selection. With its oak-infused blackberry and blueberry flavors, abv: 15.3% Price: $45 abv: NA Price: $36 this is a smooth Cabernet for drinking soon. It’s a little sweet and modest in complexity, but shows plenty of el- Stonestreet 2009 Rockfall Cabernet Sau- Stonestreet 2009 Bear Point Cabernet egance. —S.H. 93 vignon (Alexander Valley). Fine in acidity 90 Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). So smooth abv: 13.7% Price: $75 and elegantly dry, this is a glorious Cabernet, marked and lush, it’s hard to keep from drinking the whole with intensely ripe flavors of blackberry and black cur- bottle. Shows wonderfully smooth, sweet blackberries, Judd’s Hill 2008 Founder’s Art Reserve rant. Delicious and ripe, it’s sturdy in tannins. Really cherries and raspberries, balanced with supple tannins 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A needs some time to come around. Best from 2015–2021 and fine acidity. Should hold well over the next six years. good Cabernet for drinking now, with some extra fea- or so. Cellar Selection. —S.H. —S.H. tures of fanciness. It’s dry, soft and packs plenty of abv: 14.8% Price: $75 abv: 14.8% Price: $60 blackberry and cherry jam flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 Highlands 2007 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- Annabella 2010 Special Selection Caber- 92 gnon (Howell Mountain). For full review see 88 net Sauvignon (Napa County). A perfectly Kendall-Jackson 2009 Grand Re- page 6. Cellar Selection. fine Cabernet, with ripe blackberry, black currant and 87 serve Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma abv: 15% Price: $75 herb flavors. Does a good job at a fair price. —S.H. County). A solid Cabernet, offering plenty of savory abv: 13.5% Price: $17 blackberry, cola and spice flavors that finish dry and Pride Mountain 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- wholesome. —S.H. 92 gnon (Napa-Sonoma). Shows Pride’s house Envy 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Calis- abv: 14.5% Price: $28 style, a wildly bold, mountain-concentrated wine that 88 toga). Feels chunky and gritty in the mouth, couldn’t possibly be fruitier or riper. Intense flavors of with fresh young tannins giving a hard bite. Down un- Lyeth 2010 L de Lyeth Cabernet Sauvi- blackberries, blueberries and cedar are wrapped into der all that are flavors of ripe blackberry jam and spice. 87 gnon (Sonoma County). This smooth, lush complex but gentle tannins, making the wine drink- It doesn’t seem likely this will age beyond the life of its Cabernet is brimming with blackberry, black currant, able now. But it should develop over the next 6–8 years. tannins, so drink over the next five years with rich fare. blueberry cedar and spice flavors. It’s classic Cabernet. —S.H. —S.H. You’ll find quite a scour of acidity running through the abv: 14.5% Price: $68 abv: 14.5% Price: $48 middle, which suggests this wine should pair with rich, fatty meats. —S.H. Shafer 2009 One Point Five Cabernet RustRidge 2007 Estate Cabernet Sau- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 92 Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). Aged 88 vignon (Chiles Valley). This ripe Cabernet in 100% new French oak, this 100% Cabernet is big, brims with forward flavors of blackberries, black cur- Rancho Sisquoc 2009 Flood Family Vine- sweet and tannic. It’s offering little beyond excep- rants, cola and smoky oak. This is soft enough to drink 87 yards Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Barba- tionally rich, ripe flavors of blackberries, black cur- now, but the firm tannins will play against a great grilled ra County). So sweet in fruit, it’s almost like a dessert rants and dark chocolate. It’s almost like a Port wine steak, especially with a blue cheese sauce. —S.H. pastry. Shows blackberry, cherry and cocoa flavors, with whose high alcohol is an integral part of the package. abv: 14.8% Price: $50 pie spices and caramelized oak. Finishes a little sweet, Shows the dramatic flair of all Shafer’s red wines, but but it’s clean and made in a popular style. —S.H. you might want to cellar it for 5–6 years. Cellar Selec- Atalon 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa abv: 14.8% Price: $24 tion. —S.H. 87 Valley). A bit rugged, with some unripeness, abv: 15.3% Price: $70 but otherwise a solid Cabernet, drily tannic and clean. B.R. Cohn 2009 Silver Label Cabernet The blackberry jam and oak flavors are pleasant. —S.H. 86 Sauvignon (North Coast). Medium-bodied Steven Kent 2008 Home Ranch Vineyard abv: 14.6% Price: $40 and easy drinking, this Cabernet opens with yeasty red- 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). fruit aromas and a touch of smoky oak, before finishing For full review see page 7. Babcock 2009 Nucleus Cabernet Sauvi- clean. A very good Cabernet Sauvignon that should be abv: 14.4% Price: $60 87 gnon (Santa Ynez Valley). A bit coarse in fairly easy to find. —V.B. the mouth, especially compared to a smooth Napa Val- abv: 13.9% Price: $20 Terra Valentine 2009 Estate Grown Cab- ley Cabernet. It’s bone dry and moderate in alcohol, 92 ernet Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). with tannins putting a bite on the sweet blackberry fruit. Kuleto Estate 2008 Estate Cabernet Sau- So ripe, you can taste the sun bursting through the —S.H. 86 vignon (Napa Valley). Although there’s a lot blackberry flavor. Firm, refined tannins, good acidity abv: 13.8% Price: $50 of ripe blackberry jam, black currant and chocolate fla- and a grounding minerality provide complex structure vors, it’s a little on the simple side. Ready to drink now. to this intensely concentrated mountain wine. Drink Babcock 2009 The Loin Cabernet Sauvi- —S.H. now–2018. —S.H. 87 gnon (Santa Ynez Valley). There are good, abv: 14.7% Price: $50 abv: 14.9% Price: $45 dry flavors in this Cabernet. It’s a little on the coarse side, but shows lots of extraction to the blackberries and Vogelzang 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Cameron Hughes 2009 Lot 246 Cabernet black currants. The tannins are hard and firm, and not 86 (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). Give 91 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review likely to age out, so drink up. —S.H. this tough, young Cabernet a good long decant before see page 8. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.7% Price: $50 serving. At first, it’s dominated by sharp acidity and abv: 14.8% Price: $22 mouth-numbing tannins. But after some airing, it offers Freemark Abbey 2008 Bosché Vineyard black currant flavors. This is likely not an ager. —S.H. Cameron Hughes 2009 Lot 285 Cabernet 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). Ripe, abv: 14.9% Price: $50 91 Sauvignon (Rutherford). For full review see rich and fruity, with an acidic tang to the cherry and page 8. Editors’ Choice. raspberry fruit. A little simple in sour candy tastes, but Hill Wine Company 2009 Sustainably abv: 14.5% Price: $24 likeable for dryiness and acidity. Give it a good decant, 85 Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- or try cellaring. —S.H. ley). For full review see page 11. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 abv: 13.5% Price: $25

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 Alma Sol 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon and strikes the right strawberry tones. It’s big and tan- Shafer 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). Sha- 84 (Paso Robles). Although this Cabernet is nic, with weight and warmth on the finish. —V.B. 90 fer’s Merlot is very vintage driven, and this ripe, it’s harsh in the mouth, with a tart scour. Drink it abv: 15.9% Price: $28 2009 shows exceptionally ripe, sweet cherry and with rich fare, like burgers. —S.H. blueberry-pie flavors, enriched by 75% new French oak abv: 13.7% Price: $26 Santa Barbara Winery 2009 Lafond Vine- that brings toasty, spicy vanilla notes. It’s flashy, opulent 85 yard Grenache (Sta. Rita Hills). A sim- and delicious, but a bit forward and warm. Drink now. Joullian 2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvi- ple wine with tart cherry and oak flavors, and alcohol —S.H. 84 gnon (Carmel Valley). A bit rustic in the warmth. Drink now with salty, spicy meats. —S.H. abv: 15.1% Price: $48 mouth, with candy-sweet cherry and blackberry flavors. abv: 15.3% Price: $26 Drink now. —S.H. Envy 2008 Reserve Estate Merlot (Calis- abv: 13.5% Price: $34 Curtis 2009 Grenache (Santa Barbara 88 toga). Tough and gritty in tannins, this show- 82 County). This is a simple and soft wine. It has cases sweet cherry, cola and spice flavors, with a nice Valley of the Moon 2009 Cuveé le la Luna semi-sweet flavors of cola and cherry. —S.H. earthiness. Not an ager, it needs the richest foods you 84 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). A abv: 14.7% Price: $25 can pair it with, like steak or game served in rich sauces. good Cabernet, rough and tannic, with blackberry and —S.H. blueberry fruit flavors that finish a bit sweet and syr- abv: 14.5% Price: $38 upy. —S.H. MALBEC abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Mt. Brave 2008 Malbec (Mount Veeder). Wattle Creek 2009 Merlot (Yorkville High- For full review see page 4. 88 lands). There are lots of fresh, deeply flavored Discoveries Vineyards 2010 Cabernet 94 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 blackberries, blueberries and black currants in this 83 Sauvignon (California). A simple wine that’s wine. It’s tough and gritty in tannins now, but it should offered at a fair price, this has sweet, candied cherry and St. Supéry 2009 Dollarhide Malbec (Napa benefit from a few years in the cellar. —S.H. blackberry flavors. —S.H. 92 Valley). For full review see page 7. abv: 14.6% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 14.3% Price: $50 Lyeth 2010 L de Lyeth Merlot (Sonoma Manifesto! 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Steven Kent 2008 Ghielmetti Vineyard 87 County). With a softly tannic mouthfeel and 83 (North Coast). Pungent notes of cranberry 91 Malbec (Livermore Valley). Malbec on its appealing cherry, mocha and spice flavors, this is a nice and pruny oak mark this wine, with tannins that are a bit own doesn’t always express much in California but this Merlot to drink now. Gets better in the glass as it airs tough and slightly out of balance. —V.B. wine has a huge personality and a lot of varietal charac- and warms. This should pair well with lamb. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $20 ter, with its heady aromatics of blueberry pie and bak- abv: 13.5% Price: $13 ing spice. Medium in body, it remains spicy across the Lange Twins 2009 Estate grown Caber- palate. The finish is long lasting, with a note of dried Rancho Sisquoc 2009 Flood Family Vine- net Sauvignon (Lodi). Like liquid toasted 82 plum. —V.B. 87 yards Merlot (Santa Barbara County). cinnamon, this Cabernet Sauvignon is texturally harsh. abv: 14.1% Price: $50 This is arguably the winery’s best Merlot ever. While it —V.B. is not an ager, it is a lovely food wine that’s dry, with crisp abv: 13.9% Price: $15 Rancho Sisquoc 2009 Flood Family Vine- acidity. It expresses subtle flavors of cherry, red currant, yards Malbec (Santa Barbara County). A tobacco and sandalwood flavors. —S.H. Lange Twins 2008 Reserve Cabernet 88 dark, brooding, tannic young wine that actually smells abv: 14.2% Price: $20 Sauvignon (Lodi). A huge, harsh Cabernet 81 like the grilled steak it should accompany. Blackberry without much in the way of varietal character. —V.B. and earth flavors surface on the palate, made brisk with Ridge 2009 Estate Monte Bello Vineyard abv: 14.1% Price: $30 acidity. —S.H. 87 Merlot (Santa Cruz Mountains). A tough, abv: 13.8% Price: $30 gritty, tannic Merlot that’s dry and full bodied, with a solid core of blackberries, minerals and herbs. It’s a GRENACHE bit rough now, and not likely to age over the long haul, Beckmen 2009 Purisima Mountain Vine- MERLOT but it does show class. This mellows in the glass as it yard Grenache (Santa Ynez Valley). Beck- breathes. Drink now–2015. —S.H. 94 Mt. Brave 2008 Merlot (Mount Veeder). men is one of Santa Barbara’s premier Rhône-style pro- abv: 14.2% Price: $40 98 For full review see page 3. Editors’ Choice. ducers, and one of the few wineries that understands abv: 15.2% Price: $60 how to get Grenache right. This one, which has been Frog’s Leap 2009 Merlot (Rutherford). blended with a little Syrah is just wonderful. It’s not only 86 Tannic and dry, this has cherry-berry flavors that La Jota Vineyard 2009 Merlot (Howell finish with a touch of tobacco and spice. Ready to drink delicious in fruits and spices, but it’s balanced, with su- Mountain). For full review see page 4. Cellar perb acidity and a bracing coating of tannin. Editors’ 95 now. —S.H. Selection. abv: 13.2% Price: $34 Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $55 abv: 15.5% Price: $45 Grayson 2010 Lot 6 Merlot (California). A Kendall-Jackson 2009 Grand Reserve 85 good everyday Merlot that’s dry and softly tan- Andrew Murray 2009 Terra Bella Vine- Merlot (Sonoma County). For full review yard Grenache (Paso Robles). Although 92 nic, with pleasant cherry, cola and spice flavors.Best 90 see page 7. Buy. —S.H. the alcohol level on this Grenache is high, the wine is abv: 14.5% Price: $26 delicious. It shows cherry, cola, bacon and sandalwood abv: 13.9% Price: $10 flavors, wrapped into firm tannins that call for rich lamb Matanzas Creek 2009 Merlot (Bennett Markham 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). and beef dishes. The alcohol is an integral part of the 92 Valley). A wonderful wine at a great price. This 85 Shows the soft, supple side of Merlot, with wine, bringing spicy heat and sweetness. —S.H. is complex and delicious in blackberry and black cur- abv: 15.8% Price: $30 smooth tannins framing earthy flavors of sour-cherry rant flavors, with a savory minerality on the finish. As it candy, herbs and cedar. Ready to drink now. —S.H. starts off with tough tannins, allow it to decant. Editors’ abv: 14.2% Price: $23 Lorenzi Estate Wines 2009 Reserve Gr- Choice. —S.H. enache (Paso Robles). This is light in color 85 abv: 14.8% Price: $26 Rexford 2009 Merlot (Santa Cruz Moun- 85 tains). A fine, everyday Merlot, soft and ap-

WineMag.com | 23 proachable, with ripe berry, cherry, cola and oak flavors. ful, offering a wealth of red fruit, cola, spice, mineral The tannins are pretty. Drink up. —S.H. PINOT NOIR and earth flavors. The tannins are negotiable, the acidity abv: 14.3% Price: $22 Donum Estate 2009 West Slope Estate brisk and clean, the finish dry and long. You may even 97 Pinot Noir (Carneros). A fabulous Pinot Noir want to cellar it for 5–6 years, although it’s fully enjoy- Stonehedge 2010 Merlot (California). A that’s rich and deeply flavored, with the most wonder- able now. —S.H. 85 routine, although entirely drinkable, Merlot. It’s ful structure. After a fruity, spicy entry, the wine sinks abv: 14.4% Price: $65 very dry and tart in acidity, with pleasant tobacco and down dramatically on the midpalate, offering masses of sour cherry candy flavors. —S.H. cherries, raspberries, red currants, cured meats, sau- Donum Estate 2009 Estate Grown Pinot abv: 13.9% Price: $15 téed mushrooms, spices and sweetly toasted sandal- 92 Noir (Carneros). Give this polished young Pi- wood. Bone dry, and capable of aging eight years in the not Noir some time in the cellar to come around. It’s Hill Wine Company 2009 Merlot (Napa cellar, it surpasses even the 2007 West Slope, arguably a seriously good wine, dry, tannic and medium-bodied, 84 Valley). A bit jagged, but fully dry, with some making it one of the greatest Carneros Pinot Noirs ever with a dense core of cherry and plum flavors. If you nice sour-cherry candy, herb and spice flavors. A good made. —S.H. have to drink it before 2015, give it several hours in a wine for parties. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $100 decanter. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $20 abv: 14.4% Price: $65 Lynmar 2010 Quail Hill Vineyard Lynn’s Discoveries Vineyards 2009 Merlot (Cali- 95 Blend Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Donum Estate 2009 Thomas Estate Pinot 81 fornia). A soft, simple wine, with cherry cough With fine acidity, grippy tannins and a tangy minerality, 92 Noir (Carneros). An excellent wine—it’s big medicine flavors. —S.H. this Pinot offers complex flavors of sour-cherry candy, and brawny, but magnificently packed with flavors of abv: 13.5% Price: $10 red currant, Dr. Pepper and spice that are laced with briary fruit, cola and spices. It has all the weight, depth notes of dried herbs and white pepper. Turns dramat- and length one could want, yet it never loses its deli- Quickfire 2008 Top Chef Merlot (Napa ic on the midpalate, where the weight sinks in. Deli- cacy and elegance. It’s pretty tart in acidity, but that Valley). This has aromas of prunes and burnt 80 cious now, this should develop over the next 6–8 years. could help it develop. Try after 2015. Cellar Selection. rubber, but it tastes better than that. It’s a pretty raw —S.H. —S.H. effort. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $70 abv: 14.4% Price: $100 abv: 13.7% Price: $18 Lynmar 2010 Old Vines Pinot Noir (Rus- Lynmar 2010 Freestone Pinot Noir (Rus- 94 sian River Valley). This is a concentrated 92 sian River Valley). The vintage was cool, PETITE SIRAH wine, with intense flavors of cherry and red currant. lending this wine strong acidity that cuts through the Elyse 2010 Barrel Select Petite Sirah There’s a tug of the earth by way of minerals and dried mouth like a squirt of lime juice. Dry and austere, it of- 92 (Napa Valley). Classic Petite Sirah, in the herbs. It’s splendid acidity and firm tannins give it won- fers oak-influenced sour-cherry candy and cola flavors. full-bodied richness, dryness, hard tannins and deep fla- derful structure. It’s an ager, so it should hold out at This should develop bottle complexity over the next 3–6 vors of ripe dark berries and fruits, cocoa, grilled meat least through 2017. —S.H. years. —S.H. and black pepper. As good as that is, it also shows the abv: 14.3% Price: $70 abv: 14.9% Price: $55 impeccable balance of a fine Napa Valley red wine. Good now with robust meat stews and roasts, and it Lynmar 2010 Jenkins Vineyard Pinot Noir Lynmar 2010 Quail Hill Vineyard Sum- should develop for many years. —S.H. 93 (Russian River Valley). Great Pinot Noir, 92 mit Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). The abv: 14.5% Price: $32 dry, silky and crisp in acidity, yet with enormously com- vintage was kind to this bottling, resulting in fabulous- plex flavors. The cherries and pomegranates have an ly ripe flavors of cherry, black raspberry and cola that Frank Family 2009 SJ Vineyard Petite earthy connection by way of minerals and sweet herbs. finish in a swirl of exotic spices. It’s a bit heavy and di- 89 Sirah (Napa Valley). A big, rich, softly jam- Only an infant now, this elegantly polished wine should rect in primary fruit, but the acids and tannins are fine, my Petite Sirah that’s packed with flavors of blackberry, develop over the next six years. —S.H. and should allow this wine to age for the next 6–8 years. blueberry, dark chocolate, anise and pepper. It’s tannic, abv: 14.8% Price: $70 Cellar Selection. —S.H. so cellaring this puppy for a good six years is recom- abv: 14.4% Price: $70 mended—although, it will always be fairly rustic. Cel- Babcock 2010 Slice of Heaven Pinot Noir lar Selection. —S.H. 92 (Sta. Rita Hills). With low alcohol and a clean Maggy Hawk 2009 Unforgettable Pinot abv: 14.5% Price: $65 minerality, this Pinot represents the new direction that 92 Noir (Anderson Valley). Pretty rich and full- the variety is taking in California, helped by cooler vin- bodied for Pinot Noir, this is a big wine that grabs your Titus 2009 Petite Sirah (Napa Valley). tages. It’s dry, crisply acidic and complex, with the cher- attention. It floods the mouth with flavors of sour cher- 87 So dark, you can hardly see light through it. ry-berry flavors assisted with notes of earthy herb and ry candy and spicy persimmons, with a rich overlay of It’s tannic, too, which makes for one big, heavy wine. mushroom. A lovely wine now, and should gently de- toasty oak and exotic spices. The acidity lends a nice But it’s delicious, packed with blackberry jam, teriyaki velop over the next six years. —S.H. bite. It’s too young to appreciate now, but it should gain beef, Dr. Pepper, dark chocolate and sweet sandalwood abv: 13.7% Price: $60 traction after 2014. Cellar Selection. —S.H. flavors. Usually a Petite Sirah this rich will develop in abv: 14.5% Price: $66 the cellar, but this one’s on the soft side, so its future is Black Kite 2009 Angel Hawk Pinot Noir questionable. —S.H. 92 (Anderson Valley). This is the second of Lynmar 2010 Quail Hill Vineyard Bliss abv: 14.9% Price: $36 Black Kite’s 2009 Pinot Noirs to be released, following 91 Blend Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). the Redwood’s Edge last year. It’s an impressive wine, An enormous Pinot Noir that’s rich and ripe in cher- Bogle 2009 Petite Sirah (California). With dry, richly textured and crisp, showing complex cher- ries, red currants, licorice, cola and sweet toasty oak, 85 sweet berry, cherry and spice flavors, this is a ry compote, chocolate-covered mint, spice and sandal- and thoroughly dry on the finish. There’s no doubting fine wine for drinking now with everyday fare. It’s soft wood flavors. It’s clearly delicious, but gains extra charm its layers of complexity, although it’s a little warm with and a little sweet, with bracing tannins. —S.H. from the smooth texture and elegance. Drink now- alcohol. Could be an ager. Try after 2016. Cellar Selec- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 2015. —S.H. tion. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $75 abv: 14.6% Price: $70 Discoveries Vineyards 2009 Petite Sirah 81 (California). A soft, simple wine, with a gluey Donum Estate 2009 Estate Grown Pinot Maggy Hawk 2009 Afleet Pinot Noir (An- texture and sweet berry and spice flavors. —S.H. 92 Noir (Russian River Valley). Donum is at 91 derson Valley). A fine wine, dry and bright in abv: 13.5% Price: $10 the top of it’s Pinot Noir game. This is simply wonder- zesty acidity, and an excellent example of a tight, young

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. This shows flavors of sour Vine Hill 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Two Sisters 2009 Lindsay’s Vineyard Pi- cherry candy, persimmon and spice flavors, grounded 90 Mountains). Rich and satisfying, it has a ton 88 not Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Enormously jam- with minerals. Drink now, with decanting, or age it for of cherry and cola fruit that is wrapped into firm tannins my in raspberries and cherries, this is almost sweet, like up to six years. —S.H. and made brisk with acidity. The finish is dry and spicy. spicy dessert-pastry filling. There’s good acidity and abv: 14.6% Price: $66 Not an ager, but it’s a beautiful wine to drink now with even a bite of grippy tannins, but the wine is so power- a great steak. —S.H. ful it lacks subtlety. —S.H. Vine Hill 2008 Barrel 31 Pinot Noir (San- abv: 13.9% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $75 91 ta Cruz Mountains). Stylistically, this Pinot is right in the middle of the big, blowsy style and the more Armanino Family Cellars 2010 The Pin- Annabella 2010 Special Selection Pinot austere, low-alcohol style. It’s balanced, dry and rich in 88 tail Doctor’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa 87 Noir (Carneros). There are lot’s of cherry, cherry and raspberry-pie flavors, with an opulent over- Lucia Highlands). A voluptuous wine that shows its cola, sandalwood and exotic spice flavors in this Pinot lay of sweet, smoky oak. Drink now–2015. —S.H. sunny California origins in the ripe cherry and raspberry Noir. It’s dry and silky, with a nice crispness from the abv: 14.1% Price: $34 flavors. It’s delicious on a purely hedonistic level, show- acidity. —S.H. ing the dynamism of a Highlands Pinot Noir, even if it abv: 14.5% Price: $17 Ampelos 2010 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). lacks some structural subtlety and dryness. —S.H. 90 This young wine brims with fresh acidity and abv: 15.2% Price: $55 Babcock 2010 Ocean’s Ghost Pinot Noir primary cherry, blackberry and cola flavors. The com- 87 (Sta. Rita Hills). The alcohol is nice and low plexity is considerable and so is the elegance. It feels Babcock 2010 Microcosm Pinot Noir in this dry Pinot Noir. It has a silky texture and complex graceful and silky in the mouth, despite the power of the 88 (Sta. Rita Hills). Rich, dry and pretty full-bod- flavors of red cherries, persimmons, cola and spices. fruit. Should hit its peak in two or three years. —S.H. ied for a Pinot Noir, this is stuffed with flavors of cherry Acidity is great but there’s something slightly off, sug- abv: 13.8% Price: $25 pie and cola, made brisk by acidity. A little heavy, but gesting a trace of unripeness. Drink now. —S.H. sound and complex. —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $60 Babcock 2010 Deja Vu Pinot Noir (Paso abv: 14.2% Price: $60 90 Robles). Made in a ripe, rich style, this is a Champ de Reves 2010 Pinot Noir (Ander- big, fruity wine. It’s has a potent black-cherry jam fla- Babcock 2010 Precocious Pinot Noir 87 son Valley). Edgy and sharp now, with a cut of vor that’s simply delicious. Atypical for Pinot Noir, but 88 (Santa Barbara County). Delicious in its acidity giving a rustic bite to the cherry, blackberry and there’s no denying how good it tastes. —S.H. own way, with a soft, gentle mouthfeel framing upfront toasty oak flavors. Hard to see it aging well, so give it a abv: 14.1% Price: $60 flavors of raspberry, cherry, vanilla, toast and pie spice. good decant and drink now. —S.H. Drink now with a steak or a lamb chop. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $40 Buena Vista 2008 Otelia’s Selection Pinot abv: 13.8% Price: $60 90 Noir (Sonoma Coast). A ripe Pinot Noir—it’s Morgan 2010 Twelve Clones Pinot Noir a little forward and jammy, but its acids and tannins are Center of Effort 2009 Pinot Noir (Edna 87 (Santa Lucia Highlands). The first of Mor- well balanced. Oak is there in the background, bringing 88 Valley). This is a big, fruity effort, with ripe fla- gan’s 2010 Pinots to be released, it shows promise for subtle toast influence to the cherries and pomegranates. vors of cherries, raspberries, dates and spicy toast. Brisk the winery’s single-vineyard bottlings. Dry and firm in Drink now–2015. —S.H. Central Coast acidity brings a tart, cranberry bite to the acidity and tannins, it’s a big, strong wine, packed with abv: 14.5% Price: $45 richness. Drink now. —S.H. cherry pie flavor. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $40 abv: 13.9% Price: $32 Cumbre of Vine Hill 2008 Hicks Family 90 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Moun- Lafond 2009 SRH Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Rancho Sisquoc 2010 Flood Family Vine- tains). Big, rich and fruity, with fantastically ripe cher- 88 Hills). This is Lafond’s entry-level Pinot, and it’s 87 yards Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). ry and Dr. Pepper flavors that are elevated by a note arguably the best SRH in years. The vintage was kind, Tastes plummy, jammy and spicy, with lots of wood tan- of sweet sandalwood, and brightened with crisp acidity. offering long hangtime fruit, while preserving vital acid- nins and a long finish. It’s a good Pinot Noir that will Impresses for sheer power, as well as the long, spicy fin- ity. With savory cherry flavors and some firm tannins, it’s pair well with steak. —S.H. ish. This is too young to drink now; it needs 5–6 years to a fine wine to drink with lamb or steak. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $30 mellow. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $27 abv: 13.8% Price: $49 Babcock 2010 Psi Clone Pinot Noir (Sta. Lucia 2010 Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir 86 Rita Hills). Right out of the bottle, this wine Cumbre of Vine Hill 2008 Rafaelli Vine- 88 (Santa Lucia Highlands). Will appeal smells and tastes tight and unappealing. It’s marked by 90 yard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). broadly to many Pinot lovers for its soft, lush array of drying tannins and earthiness, giving it a rustic quality. Very rich and sumptuous, if a little heavy. It’s delicious flavor. Raspberries, cherries, red currants, licorice and Still, there’s a good core of cherry fruit. —S.H. and complex, with cherry, mocha and red currant flavors bacon all lead to a long, spicy finish. Trades complexity abv: 14.2% Price: $60 that finish sweet and spicy. You’ll experience a hit of tan- for immediate appeal, so drink up. —S.H. nins that provides structure, but makes the wine slightly abv: NA Price: $50 Chamisal Vineyards 2011 Stainless Uno- unaccessible. Aging is a gamble, given a certain pruni- 86 aked Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). This uno- ness on the finish. —S.H. Lynmar 2010 Terra de Promissio Pinot aked wine is rich and tasty in cherries and black rasp- abv: 14.3% Price: $49 88 Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is enormous- berries, but the truth is that a little oak seasoning could ly rich in berry, cherry and cola flavor. It’s flashy, but make it better. —S.H. MacMurray Ranch 2009 Pinot Noir (So- not particularly subtle as a Pinot Noir should be, and it abv: 14.1% Price: $24 90 noma Coast). For full review see page 10. veers on being a little heavy. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $27 abv: 14.6% Price: $70 Lucia 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia High- 86 lands). This is ripe and fruity wine. A hit of Maggy Hawk 2009 Hawkster Pinot Noir Occidental Road Cellars 2008 Horse- acidity lends some structure to the raspberry, cherry 90 (Anderson Valley). This feels dramatic from 88 shoe Bend Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian and cola flavors. —S.H. the start. It’s silky and refined in texture, with brisk acid- River Valley). This has plenty of cherry, red licorice, abv: NA Price: $40 ity and a bite of tannic astringency. It shows a rich core cola and spice flavors that are wrapped into firm tan- of cherry, cola and sandalwood flavors. This should hang nins. Long on the finish, this is a very good example of a Maggy Hawk 2009 Jolie Pinot Noir (An- in there over the next five years. —S.H. Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. —S.H. 86 derson Valley). This is a good Pinot Noir, al- abv: 15.4% Price: $66 abv: 14.8% Price: $34 though it’s a bit off here and there. Dry, crisp and silky, it

WineMag.com | 25 offers pleasant cherry and cola flavors. But there’s just a vors of sour cherry candy and spices. It’s properly made ed and grilled meats, but it doesn’t seem likely to make touch of unripeness that compromises it. —S.H. and clean, just not very interesting. —S.H. gains beyond the next 3–4 years. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $66 abv: 13.1% Price: $13 abv: 14.6% Price: $60

Michael Pozzan 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian Jackhammer 2010 Pinot Noir (Central Waxwing 2010 Syrah (Sonoma County). 86 River Valley). There is lots of charm in this 82 Coast). Thick and syrupy, with candied rasp- 90 The aromas of black pepper and grilled meat soft, gentle Pinot Noir. It’s not an ager, but it offers some berry and cherry flavors. A simple, soft little Pinot Noir immediately pinpoints this as a cool-climate Syrah, and nice cherry, Dr. Pepper and spice flavors. —S.H. that tastes as sweet as a pastry. —S.H. quite a good one. It’s dry, rich and smoothly tannic, with abv: 13.9% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 blackberry, blueberry, bacon and smoky cedar flavors. While it’s asy to drink now, this should hold over the Pali 2010 Summit Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Leese-Fitch 2010 Pinot Noir (California). next six years. —S.H. 86 Hills). Pali’s multi-vineyard Summit blend has 82 This wine is ripe in raspberry and cherry flavors, abv: 14.3% Price: $28 come from various appellations over the years. The but it feels heavy. The sweetness and lack of structure 2010 shows the ripe cherry-berry flavors and fine acid- make it taste like wine candy. —S.H. Andrew Murray 2010 Watch Hill Vineyard ity of the Santa Rita Hills. It’s good, but a bit warm, abv: 13.5% Price: $13 88 Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). The cool vintage sweet and simple. —S.H. shows in the brisk acidity, hard tannins and herb and abv: 15.5% Price: $29 Tondré 2009 Tondre Grapefield Pinot mineral flavors that accompany the usual blackberries 82 Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). An unfortu- and spices. There’s plenty of elegance, with the wine Armanino Family Cellars 2010 The Ring- nate green, vegetal streak cuts through the heart of this showing a highly refined structure. Drink now–2014. 85 neck La Encantada Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Pinot Noir. It blurs the cherry fruit and detracts from —S.H. Hills). This is a soft and sweet effort. It’s a good wine, the fine silky texture. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $30 with raspberry and cherry jam flavors. This bottling abv: 14.8% Price: $40 from Armanino has been inconsistent over the years. Chatom Vineyards 2008 Syrah (Calav- —S.H. 88 eras County). Hello alcohol and black cher- abv: 14.8% Price: $55 SYRAH ry liqueur. A nicely made and compelling Syrah this is, Ojai 2008 Solomon Hills Vineyard Syrah although the alcohol is intense. The wine has mighty Pali 2010 Bluffs Pinot Noir (Russian Riv- (Santa Maria Valley). A terrific Syrah that’s tannins and is very fruity, with an added note of black er Valley). Made in a softly appealing style, this 93 85 dry and as smooth as velvet. It’s elegant on the palate licorice. The peppery finish will make you want more. Pinot is like cherry pie sprinkled with brown sugar and with complex, tantalizing flavors of ripe black and blue —V.B. cinnamon. It shows Pinot Noir’s silky texture. —S.H. berries and stone fruits, smoked meat, black pepper and abv: 15% Price: $23 abv: 15.3% Price: $21 cedar. Drink this over the next few years, before it loses Michael David 2010 Sixth Sense Syrah freshness. —S.H. Pali 2010 Huntington Pinot Noir (Santa Syrah (Lodi). abv: 14.6% Price: $45 88 Michael David makes bombas- 85 Barbara County). An everyday sort of Pi- tically huge wines, but here they’ve mastered the style, not. At this price, it’s worth investigating for wine lovers Andrew Murray 2009 Terra Bella Vine- making a black-as-night Syrah true to it’s roots, with fla- curious about this popular variety, but who don’t want yard Syrah (Paso Robles). This is arguably vors of dark red fruit, bacon and toast, with a wall of to spend an arm and a leg. It’s rich in raspberries, cola 91 one of the best Paso Robles Syrahs ever. Yes, the alcohol vanilla and oak. It’s juicy, jammy and surprisingly well and spices. —S.H. is high, giving the wine some warmth, but it’s delicious integrated, a wine that’s ready to drink now, preferably abv: 14.6% Price: $21 and complex. It’s entirely dry, with blackberry, black with a sizzling tri-tip. —V.B. pepper, bacon, cola and sandalwood flavors. Ready to abv: 15.5% Price: $16 Rexford 2009 Regan Vineyard Pinot Noir drink now, this will pair well with a great steak. —S.H. (Santa Cruz Mountains). Sweet and soft, Arrowood 2009 Saralee’s Vineyard Syr- 85 abv: 15% Price: $36 with cherry pie, date and toffee flavors dominating. You 87 ah (Russian River Valley). Dark, full-bodied could almost drink it as a dessert wine. —S.H. Andrew Murray 2009 Tous les Jours Syr- and dry, this Syrah is a bit rustic, with some sharp acidity abv: 14.6% Price: $38 91 ah (Central Coast). Shows class and elegance accompanying the blackberry fruit and pepper. Doesn’t in the dryness, astringent tannins and crisp acidity that show a great deal of complexity, but it’s a solid red wine Jeff Gordon 2009 Pinot Noir (Sonoma frame the blackberry, blueberry, teriyaki beef and spice for drinking now with hearty meats or stews. —S.H. Coast). Heavy and sweet, this wine has melted 84 flavors. The astringency is an integral part of the wine’s abv: 15.5% Price: $40 cherry-jam and Dr. Pepper flavors and some heat from the structure. Drink this over the next six years with rich alcohol. —S.H. Kagan 2008 White Hawk Vineyard Syrah lamb, game and beef dishes. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $56 (Santa Barbara County). abv: 14.5% Price: $16 87 This has lovely aro- mas of black pepper and blackberry, but in the mouth, Picket Fence 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian Damian Rae 2009 White Hawk Vineyard it turns a bit soft and sweet, with melted chocolate and River Valley). You’ll find lush flavors of cherry 84 Syrah (Santa Barbara County). A very blueberry jam flavors. It’s ripe and tasty, but could use pie, sweet dates and cola in this simple, soft Pinot Noir. 90 good Syrah, easily the winery’s best in years. It’s most greater structure. —S.H. —S.H. notable for the power of its flavors, offering a flood of abv: 14.6% Price: $54 abv: 13.8% Price: $18 black-pepper-infused cured meat and ripe black cherry. Miraflores 2009 Methode Ancienne Syr- The richness is wrapped into firm tannins. With its long Stark 2009 Windsor Oaks Vineyard Pinot ah (El Dorado). At first this comes across as finish, this should provide pleasant drinking over the 87 84 Noir (Russian River Valley). There’s a streak being a bit heavy, yeasty and tight. With time, howev- of green unripeness that gives a vegetal note, with some next few years. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $44 er, this should be full of bramble-fruit flavors. This is polished berry and cherry flavors, too. It’s unlikely to a well-crafted wine, with structure and elegance that improve with age, so drink up. —S.H. Pride Mountain 2009 Syrah (Sonoma should start to show in 3–5 years. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $44 90 County). Dark, big, bold and extracted, this abv: 14.6% Price: $30 Syrah has tough tannins that are threaded with intricate Grayson 2010 Lot 5 Pinot Noir (Califor- Rancho Sisquoc 2009 Flood Family Vine- flavors of blackberry, licorice, pepper, cola and grilled nia). This simple little Pinot Noir has thin fla- yards Syrah (Santa Barbara County). 83 bacon. The astringency will stand up to big, rich roast- 87 This is a likeable Syrah for drinking now. It has soft ac-

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 ids and tannins that frame notes of jammy cherry and and spicy on the finish. Miraflores is making some lovely edge, like raspberry Port. It’s very smooth and soft in blackberry. The flavors are sweet on the midpalate, but wines and this is one worth seeking out. —V.B. the mouth. —S.H. finish dry and spicy. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $25 abv: 15.1% Price: $28 abv: 15% Price: $25 Ottimino Vineyards 2008 Rancho Bello Artezin 2010 Zinfandel (Mendocino Cameron Hughes 2010 Lot 292 Syrah 90 Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian River Val- 86 County). A young Zin still in need of time to 84 (Santa Ynez Valley). Rustic and sweet, a sim- ley). Ottomino consistently has success with this single- develop, there’s an intensity of raspberry and blackber- ple Syrah with flavors of candied berry, black pepper vineyard Zinfandel. As always, it’s dry, smoothly tannic ry fruit in this wine, and a softness throughout. It’s full and sassafras. —S.H. and complex, with flavors of wild berry, tobacco, choco- bodied, and its finish falls flat. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $13 late and spice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 abv: 14.5% Price: $29 Curtis 2009 Syrah (Santa Barbara Coun- Chatom Vineyards 2008 Zinfandel (Ca- 84 ty). This is a soft, easy wine, with sweet black Ridge 2010 Benito Dusi Ranch Zinfandel 86 laveras County). A hit-you-upside-the-head, raspberry, cherry and spice flavors. Drink now with a 90 (Paso Robles). A first-class Zinfandel, show- floral Zin, with mountain tannins, and big blackberry nice homemade cheeseburger. —S.H. ing the variety’s briary, brambly personality. The flavors and savory leather flavors. Over time, the alcohol takes abv: 14.5% Price: $25 are of ripe wild summer berries, cola, pine extract, black over. —V.B. pepper and cinnamon, wrapped into firm tannins and abv: 15.5% Price: $20 Lorenzi Estate Wines 2009 Reserve Syr- finishing sweet and long. —S.H. 84 ah (Temecula Valley). This Syrah starts off abv: 14.4% Price: $30 Easton 2009 E Estate Zinfandel (Fiddle- earthy, musky, big and brawny and can’t escape the 86 town). This Fiddletown Zin has a sweet gra- wood-oaked herbal greenness on the finish. It’s simply De Loach 2010 Zinfandel (Russian River ham cracker and marshmallow quality about it, soft and too high in alcohol. —V.B. 89 Valley). Easy to like for its ripe fruit, cola, spice round in the middle, and a finish that’s long and a touch abv: 16.3% Price: $46 and meaty flavors. This is De Loach’s basic Zinfandel, green. —V.B. and it’s very good due to the balance that makes it so abv: 14.5% Price: $22 drinkable. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. ZINFANDEL abv: 15.5% Price: $18 Kuleto Estate 2009 Zinfandel (Napa Val- ley). Easton 2009 Rinaldi Vineyard Zinfandel 86 This wine has flavors of wild blackberry, Easton 2009 Estate Zinfandel (Shenan- blueberry and mocha, with a rich vein of herb, tobacco (Fiddletown). From old vines dating to 1865, 92 doah Valley). This wine won’t be available un- and spice. However, it’s hot in alcohol, and finishes with this is a hugely fragrant mountainous Zinfandel, with an 88 til 2013/2014, but for the moment it is a mouthful of ex- glyceriney sweetness—almost like a minor Port. Drink abundance of raspberry and blackberry flavors. A wine tremely ripe blackberry and blueberry jam, with layers up. —S.H. with a huge presence and soft, rounded tannins, it’s of tar and dirt. Big and ripe, the additional time in bottle abv: 14.9% Price: $35 extremely yummy with a ton of peppery spice on the will help smooth out its edges. —V.B. long finish. —V.B. abv: 15.1% Price: $32 Ottimino Vineyards 2008 Zinfinity Zinfan- abv: 14.5% Price: $28 86 del (Sonoma County). A good, lusty Zinfan- Manifesto! 2009 Zinfandel (Lodi). Buena Vista 2008 Arpad’s Selection Zin- This del, robust and sweet in berry, mocha, tobacco, cola and approachable, easy-drinking wine will please a spice flavors. It’s a blend of Ottomino’s various vine- fandel (Sonoma County). Let this wine 88 91 range of different palates. Made by Napa-based wine- yards. —S.H. breathe for a couple hours in a decanter to unlock it. maker Jamey Whetstone, it has soft red-fruit flavor and abv: 13.9% Price: $18 Right out of the bottle, it’s a bit brittle and Porty. Airing a big finish. —V.B. brings out the cherry-raspberry fruit, and it softens and abv: 13.9% Price: $18 Benessere 2009 Hollystone-Collins Old enhances the earthiness and spices, making for a more Vines Zinfandel (Napa Valley). This doesn’t fulfilling experience. —S.H. 84 Arrowhead Mountain 2008 Zinfandel (So- taste ripe, with a green, minty edge to the cherry and abv: 15% Price: $32 87 noma Valley). Marked by ripe blackberry and oak flavors. The tannins and acids provide nice struc- Easton 2010 Zinfandel (Amador Coun- cherry pie flavors, this offers plenty of pleasure. It’s ture, however. —S.H. clean, robust and tannic, and finishes with an array of abv: 14.5% Price: $32 ty). An excellent Zin—this has an invitingly soft 91 spices. This should appeal to those who like Zinfandel floral nose, mountainous black-fruit flavors and struc- on the soft, sweet side. —S.H. Grayson 2010 Lot 12 Zinfandel (Califor- ture and plenty of depth. This should age nicely over abv: 15% Price: $40 nia). A rustic, common wine; it’s not quite ripe, the next 3–5 years, but it is delicious to drink now, too. 83 and is hot in alcohol and pepper. But it’s okay for every- —V.B. Chessman 2010 Zinfandel (Lodi). A rustic, day pizza and such. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $18 87 earthy and soft Zinfandel that’s priced attrac- abv: 14.1% Price: $11 Ottimino Vineyards 2008 Von Weidlich tively. It has the right amount of blackberry fruit and Peterson 2009 West Vineyard Tradizio- Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian River Val- fistfuls of bacon and toasty oak. —V.B. 91 abv: 14.5% Price: $15 nale Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). This ley). This vineyard has been source to Ottomino’s best 83 Zinfandel is a bruiser. It’s hot from high alcohol, over- for years. The ’08 is right up there, rich and Folie à Deux 2009 Zinfandel (Dry Creek ripe and Porty. But it is true to a certain Dry Creek style. sweet in briary berries, cola, mocha and pepper spice. Valley). A bruiser of a Zinfandel—it’s dry, full- The flavors are mixed, of berries, herbs, tobacco and The tannins are firm; the acidity is just right. A bit young 87 bodied and tannic. This shows its Dry Creek origins in prunes. Drink up. —S.H. and sweet in primary fruit, try aging it for a few years in the spicy, briary mouthfeel and the hint of overripe, abv: 14.9% Price: $24 the cellar. —S.H. pruny fruit. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.4% Price: $38 abv: 14.5% Price: $22 OTHER RED WINES Miraflores 2009 Estate Zinfandel (El Do- Ridge 2010 East Bench Zinfandel (Dry rado). This is a proper El Dorado Zin. It’s still Jarvis 2010 Estate Grown Cave Ferment- 90 Creek Valley). High alcohol, and possibly a tight and tannic, but air and time reveal a lovely bou- 87 ed Tempranillo (Napa Valley). For full re- little residual sugar, give this 100% Zin a definite sweet 90 quet of lavender and crushed herbs that’s layered, soft view see page 10. abv: 13.8% Price: $70

WineMag.com | 27 Miraflores 2009 Estate Mourvèdre (El glazed ever so slightly with sugar. Light drinking and Yet it remains lively with bracing acids, citrus and ap- 90 Dorado). This shows the meatier side of very beautifully made, try enjoying this poured over ple, and highlights of toasted nuts and caramel. A big, Mourvèdre, with flavors of soft leather, purple berries, vanilla ice cream. —V.B. grin-inducing wine that is virtually irresistible. Editors’ fragrant wildflowers and earth. The finish is long and abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Choice. —P.G. savory. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $35 abv: 14.9% Price: $26 Occasio 2010 Angelica Pinot Gris (Liver- 92 more Valley). This wine is gorgeous, with Two Mountain 2010 Chardonnay (Rattle- St. Supéry 2009 Dollarhide Petit Verdot flavors of hazelnut, pear and ripe green apple. It’s crisp, 91 snake Hills). A standout in a flight of pricier 90 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 10. balanced and perfectly sweetened. Mixed with vodka Chardonnays, this young wine is tight and focused, with abv: 14.2% Price: $50 and fresh fruit juices, it also makes a fine cocktail. —V.B. a pretty toasty edge. Fresh apple and white peach fla- abv: 20% Price: $36/375 ml vors have taken on a lot of new oak, but have the stuffing Fenestra 2008 Estate Mourvèdre (Liver- to absorb it, especially with a bit more bottle age. A lot 89 more Valley). Another delicious Mourvèdre Castello di Amorosa 2010 Late Harvest of vanilla, custard and almond-cookie goodness fills out from Fenestra’s estate that’s invitingly earthy, spilling 89 Gewürztraminer (Anderson Valley). Fan- the finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. over with dark plum and sweet blackberry aromas and a tastically rich and sweet, with vast, deep flavors of hon- abv: 13.7% Price: $21 taste of spicy cardamom. Very bright and light in taste, ey, apricots, tangerines, vanilla and spices. The residual the wine’s body has enough heft to pair with big-boned sugar is 13.3%. We humans are hard-wired to love this àMaurice 2008 Chardonnay (Columbia meals and a lot of spiciness. Drink now. —V.B. level of sweetness, but a minor quibble is that the acidi- 89 Valley). Floral highlights accent the nose, lead- abv: 14.1% Price: $25 ty isn’t high enough to provide ultimate balance. —S.H. ing into a crisp and textural wine with pear skin and cit- abv: NA Price: $35/375 ml rus dominating. This falls on the steely side of Chardon- Steven Kent 2008 Ghielmetti Vineyard nay styles, offering texture and accents of mineral for 89 Petit Verdot (Livermore Valley). Dense and Easton 2009 Late-Harvest Obscura Zin- added interest. —P.G. meaty like a baked purple leather pouch, this is tightly 88 fandel (Fiddletown). Made from Sierra Foot- abv: 14.5% Price: $28 tannic, with a lift of acidity on the midpalate and a hint hills Zinfandel, this smells of grapes dried in the sun. of violet struggling to get out. It’s an interesting wine; This is delicately balanced, with just the right level of Eight Bells 2010 French Creek Vineyard give it 3–5 years in the cellar or drink now with red thickness and sweetness. Enjoy with plummy desserts 88 Chardonnay (Yakima Valley). All the Eight meat. —V.B. or dark chocolate. —V.B. Bells wines show attention to cleanliness and varietal ex- abv: 13.9% Price: $50 abv: 13.6% Price: $20/375 ml pression. This has a ripe apple flavor, with a lick of min- erality on the finish. —P.G. Valley of the Moon 2009 Sangiovese (So- Stuessy Cellars 2010 My Sweet Petite abv: 13% Price: $18 86 noma County). Something like a cross be- 87 Petite Sirah (Suisun Valley). Dark black like tween a silky Pinot Noir and a soft Merlot, this is a gen- the grapes it’s made from. Once you get past its high Three Rivers 2010 Chardonnay (Colum- tle, fruity wine, with berry, tobacco, cola and spice fla- alcohol, this has powerful flavors of dark chocolate, tar 87 bia Valley). For those who love a big, oaky vors. A nice scour of tannins suggests this will pair with and baked plums. —V.B. Chardonnay, this is for you. It’s raw, blocky and rough, rich, oily meats and cheeses. —S.H. abv: 19.1% Price: $23/500 ml but there is plenty of fresh oak flavor, and time should abv: 13.5% Price: $16 integrate the wood into the clean and straightforward Vezer Family Vineyard 2007 Franci Black green apple flavor. —P.G. Curtis 2009 Mourvèdre (Santa Barbara 87 Muscat (California). Like pulling up to a abv: 13.7% Price: $18 84 County). Soft and sweet, a simple country- fruit stand in the Central Valley on a hot day, this des- style wine with cherry jam flavors as well as a streak of sert-style Black Muscat tastes of baked plums and syr- wintergreen mint. —S.H. upy chocolate. It’s balanced, and its sweetness lingers. RIESLING abv: 14.3% Price: $25 —V.B. Beast 2010 Wallula Vineyard Sphinx Ries- abv: 14.4% Price: $24/375 ml ling (Horse Heaven Hills). From the biody- Vina Robles 2008 Signature Estate Cu- 94 namic block at Wallula, this is truly a bone-dry style, vée Petit Verdot (Paso Robles). High al- Chatom Vineyards 2006 Vino Dolce (Ca- 84 with intense concentration. It’s fruity and complex, with cohol, enormously ripe fruit and soft acidity make this laveras County). A sweet mix of Touriga Na- 84 grapefruit and lemon rind flavors that are backed with wine taste sweet and syrupy. Not likely to evolve, so cional, Tinta Cão, Souzão and Tinta Barroca that smells astonishing minerality. The acidity is high but natural drink up. —S.H. of melted chocolate over strawberries. The alcohol and perfectly integrated. The dry extract gives texture abv: 15.5% Price: $39 overwhelms the fruit’s charm and makes it hard to dis- to an amazingly-long finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. cern the care that was taken in putting such grapes to- abv: 12.9% Price: $25 Benessere 2008 Sangiovese (Napa Val- gether. —V.B. ley). Not a successful vintage for the winery’s abv: 20% Price: $30/375 ml 83 AntoLin Cellars 2010 Glacier Estate Vine- Sangiovese. The wine is a bit unripe, with flavors of yard Riesling (Yakima Valley). This cool- green vegetable, cherry and white pepper. —S.H. 3 Steves Winery NV Chardonnay (Liver- 92 climate Riesling, technically off-dry with 2% residual abv: 14.5% Price: $28 more Valley). Dark honey gold in color, this is 82 sugar, has very tart, highly extracted flavors, with flavors reminiscent of cider. It’s an interesting use of ripe Char- including tangy citrus, peach, apricot and papaya. The Santa Barbara Winery 2008 Stolpman donnay, but finishes overly sour, almost bitter. —V.B. length, acidity, texture, mouthfeel, depth and surpass- 80 Vineyard Sangiovese (Santa Ynez Val- abv: 19.7% Price: $22/375 ml ley). This has fierce acidity, and is sweet in cherry jam ing freshness are exceptional. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 12.2% Price: $14 flavors, with some unripe, green notes. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $24 WASHINGTON Hogue 2010 Genesis Riesling (Columbia 92 Valley). For full review see page 6. Editors’ DESSERT WINES CHARDONNAY Choice. Buty 2010 Conner Lee Vineyard Char- abv: 12.1% Price: $16 Miraflores 2008 Botricelli Semillon-Sau- donnay (Columbia Valley). This is one of vignon Blanc (California). 93 92 This dessert wine the stars of the vintage in 2010; the Conner Lee fruit Convergence Zone Cellars 2011 Bac- is a blend of 80% Semillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc. is rich and fully ripe, with a pleasingly candied aspect. 90 chus Vineyard Dewpoint Riesling (Co- Dark-golden in hue, it tastes like a fresh apricot tart

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 lumbia Valley). As fresh as a young white wine can be, Insania 2010 White (Red Mountain). This Maryhill 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve Cab- this sappy Riesling opens with lovely floral aromas, that 92 Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend is firm, power- 91 ernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). For lend the palate a bit of Gewürztraminer-like soapiness. ful and polished. The fruit runs the gamut from citrus full review see page 9. It turns spicy and penetrating, with Meyer lemon and to melon to white peach, finishing with some youthful abv: 13.8% Price: $30 other expressions of tart citrus. —P.G. bite. Already a succulent, mouthfilling gem, but should abv: 12.6% Price: $17 improve for another five years. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Camaraderie 2008 Reserve Cabernet abv: 14.2% Price: $25 90 Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). The Ca- Hogue 2010 Riesling (Columbia Valley). maraderie reserves—both this and the Merlot—have 88 For full review see page 12. Best Buy. Hogue 2010 Gewürztraminer (Columbia spent an extra year in barrel, and the benefit is that abv: 12.2% Price: $11 91 Valley). For full review see page11. Best Buy. they have broadened out a bit. The vineyard sources are abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Champoux, Artz and Meek. This offers tart berry, and Three Rivers 2010 Bacchus Vineyard astringently-tannic flavors, with chalk, smoke and lead 88 Riesling (Columbia Valley). Off-dry, with SuLei Cellars 2011 Spring Creek Sau- pencil streaks. Excellent balance and mass. Cellar Se- flavors of fresh pear drizzled with honey. It’s a charming 89 vignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). SuLei’s lection. —P.G. Riesling, fruity and gently sweet, though with enough Tanya Woodley ferments her Sauvignon Blanc in stain- abv: 14.6% Price: $38 backing acid to keep it food-friendly. —P.G. less steel, then ages it in a mix of neutral oak and stain- abv: 12.2% Price: $15 less steel barrels. In this new vintage some residual Fidelitas 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co- sugar (just under 1%) remains, to soften the otherwise- 90 lumbia Valley). This pure Cabernet is stub- searing acidity. It works well, crafting a fleshy wine load- bornly unyielding at first, showing a lean and herbal ex- VIOGNIER ed with citrus and honeydew. The finish lingers and has pression. But with extensive (overnight) breathing time, AntoLin Cellars 2010 Viognier (Yakima plenty of lift. —P.G. the fresh and bright flavors of boysenberries and cassis abv: 13.5% Price: $18 93 Valley). This southern Rhône-style blend in- pop into focus, the tannins are ripe and polished, the cludes 10% each Marsanne and Roussanne. It’s flat out finish still tightly wound but textural and long.Cellar Convergence Zone Cellars 2011 Sun- lovely and silky smooth, with scents and flavors of hon- Selection. —P.G. break Chenin Blanc (Snipes Mountain abv: 14.6% Price: $25 ey-laced flowers. Lemon, lime and grapefruit dominate 88 District). From the Upland Vineyard, this sweetly the palate, with superb balance and persistence. Cer- fruity (3% residual sugar) wine bursts with fresh flavors Maryhill 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co- tainly one of the best Washington State Viogniers I have of grapefruit and pear. The expansive, fleshy midpalate lumbia Valley). For full review see page 10. ever tasted. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 90 leads into a clean finish with excellent grip. —P.G. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 12.2% Price: $17 abv: 13.6% Price: $17 àMaurice 2009 Viognier (Columbia Val- Revelry 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red ley). Always a strong suit from àMaurice, the 92 CABERNET SAUVIGNON Mountain). Bold flavors of clove, spice, 2009 Viognier has a cocktail mix of lemon drop and 90 tobacco, vanilla and dark chocolate jump from the glass. botanical herbs and spices. Pungent, bright and deli- Watermill 2008 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- This is a style of wine akin to hyperrealism in painting. ciously lively, this is a thrilling, high-wire wine. Editors’ gnon (Walla Walla Valley). Just three barrels 94 Barrel flavors are emphasized over fruit, but it all holds Choice. —P.G. of this outstanding reserve were produced. It’s full bod- together with a massive amount of sweet spices. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 ied, richly fruity and broadly textural, it holds its alcohol abv: 14.5% Price: $46 well, with strawberry jam highlighting a lush palate of àMaurice 2010 Sparrow Viognier (Walla ripe, sweet fruits. The barrel notes of toast, caramel and Walla Walla Vintners 2008 Cabernet Sau- Walla Valley). This is the estate bottling, lush mocha are the frosting on the cake. Editors’ Choice. 90 vignon (Walla Walla Valley). Though la- and round, with a Chardonnay-like mouthfeel from bar- —P.G. 90 beled Cabernet Sauvignon, this Bordeaux-style blend rel fermentation. Flavors of citrus and apricot fruit, ex- abv: 15.4% Price: $35 includes all six red grapes. It’s a medium-bodied wine pressions of a cool vintage, pull it into sharp focus. A that deftly mixes black cherry and cassis with chocolate, smattering of toast and butter threads through the fin- Fielding Hills 2009 RiverBend Vineyard toast and licorice highlights. —P.G. ish. —P.G. Cabernet Sauvignon (Wahluke Slope). A 92 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14% Price: $33 fine effort from Fielding Hills, in a year in which the al- cohol levels of their wines appeared to spike. This Cab- Camaraderie 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Watermill 2010 Viognier (Columbia Val- ernet retains the firm, compact character of previous (Washington). Young, tight and primary, this ley). Nicely done, still young and sharp, but vintages, with notes of graphite, earth and iron in a base 89 89 stylish, astringent Cabernet includes 10% Merlot in the carrying interesting scents of lemon and lime rind, of rich cassis. The tannins are polished and dense. Cel- blend. Blueberry, cassis, black cherry and chocolate fla- orange liqueur, and peppery spice. Excellent acidity lar Selection. —P.G. vors mingle in this tannic, ageworthy wine. —P.G. buoys it up through a satisfying finish, with just a slim abv: 15.6% Price: $42 abv: 14.6% Price: $28 suggestion of warmth. Should continue to improve with Den Hoed 2008 Andreas Cabernet Sau- another two or three years in the bottle. —P.G. Castle Rock 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.5% Price: $16 vignon (Horse Heaven Hills). Broad and 91 (Columbia Valley). For full review see page toasty, the 2008 Andreas is pure Cabernet Sauvignon 89 12. Best Buy. from the Wallula Vineyard. Lush plum and cherry fruit abv: 13.5% Price: $12 OTHER WHITE WINES is set against generous, toasty new oak. Nuanced high- Buty 2010 61% Sémillon/21% Sauvi- lights of herb, rye seed and even a dash of cayenne peek Frenchman’s Gulch 2008 Cabernet Sau- 92 gnon/18% Muscadelle (Columbia Valley). through on the finish. The wine spent a full year in bot- 89 vignon (Washington). Young and bright, this This shows a darker shade than most young whites, al- tle prior to release, but could certainly age for another is loaded with fresh boysenberry and tart cherry flavor. most a burnished gold. Soft and complex, with ripe, decade or more, and is likely to improve significantly. At first sip, it seems concentrated with excellent struc- slightly confected fruit flavors, it’s super smooth, with Cellar Selection. —P.G. ture and length; as it breathes some green tannins begin abv: 14.6% Price: $80 honeysuckle highlights around waxy stone fruits. Excel- to show in the finish. Overall a good effort. —P.G. lent length. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.8% Price: $25

WineMag.com | 29 Plumb Cellars 2008 Cabernet Sauvi- soft tannins. Easy drinking, it’s built for near-term con- espresso adding interest. It’s well balanced, with plenty 89 gnon (Columbia Valley). This pure Cab- sumption. —P.G. of acidity. —P.G. ernet jumps from the glass with luscious cherry fruit. abv: 13.7% Price: $22 abv: 13.9% Price: $30 Forward and tasty, it’s a full-blown mouthful of cherries and chocolate, with a hint of warmth in the back of the Maryhill 2009 Cabernet Franc (Columbia throat from the alcohol. Drink soon while the fresh fruit CABERNET FRANC 86 Valley). Spice, pepper, chocolate and a hint of is in play. —P.G. Walla Walla Vintners 2009 Cabernet stem are all wrapped into this light-hearted Cabernet abv: 14.6% Price: $36 92 Franc (Columbia Valley). For full review see Franc. The pretty, sweet, cherry candy core gives it im- page 7. Editors’ Choice. mediate appeal. Drink up. —P.G. Sparkman 2009 Kingpin Cabernet Sau- abv: 14.2% Price: $28 abv: 13.6% Price: $17 89 vignon (Red Mountain). A whiff of leather introduces a wine with a strong savory character; the Camaraderie 2009 Cabernet Franc leather and earth flavors start to bury the sweet berry 91 (Washington). Dark and smoky, with super- PETIT VERDOT fruit, and the tannins take on a chalky texture. —P.G. concentrated black fruits, this also displays notes of Le Chateau 2009 Petit Verdot (Colum- abv: 14.8% Price: $62 black olive, char and earth. The bright, clean, pure fruit 90 bia Valley). Youthful and tangy, this new Le shines through the darker elements, giving the wine bal- Chateau release of pure Petit Verdot reflects a positive Hogue 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co- ance and a touch of elegance. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. change in the . The spiced-plum, blueberry lumbia Valley). For full review see page 12. abv: 14.7% Price: $28 88 and cherry flavors are pure and mouthcoating, and the Best Buy. barrel aging (22 months in 30% new French oak) wraps abv: 13.9% Price: $11 Dumas Station 2009 Estate Cabernet the fruit in vanilla, coffee, and dusty graphite, leading Franc (Walla Walla Valley). Exceptionally 90 onto the long and satisfying finish. —P.G. Mosquito Fleet 2008 Pepper Bridge Vine- smooth for such a young wine, this deeply-fruited red abv: 14.7% Price: $35 88 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Wal- blends pretty raspberry and cherry flavors with seduc- la Valley). This single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon tively-delicious milk-chocolaty barrel notes. Happi- Gifford Hirlinger 2009 Estate Petit Verdot captures the flavor profile of Pepper Bridge fruit, with ly, there is enough natural acidity to keep it lively and (Walla Walla Valley). Toasty and firm, this streaks of green olive and green tea adding complexity fresh. —P.G. 89 pure Petit Verdot is rich with black cherry and cassis. to the tart and brambly fruits. The tannins are quite as- abv: NA Price: $30 Whiffs of smoke and a slight burn in the finish suggest tringent and drying, but the aromas suggest there may that further bottle age will bring in more barrel nuances be further improvement with age. —P.G. Fielding Hills 2009 RiverBend Vineyard (from 40% new American oak) and smooth out the fin- abv: 13.9% Price: $39 89 Cabernet Franc (Wahluke Slope). Surpris- ingly, this seems quite light at first, with strawberry and ish. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $28 Syzygy 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co- cranberry fruit flavors, and a fair amount of acidity. Give lumbia Valley). Good balance throughout it a few hours of breathing time and it gains flesh. The 88 Saviah Cellars 2008 Petite Verdot (Walla typifies this Columbia Valley Cabernet. The tart spent 19 months in a combination of American Walla Valley). Saviah makes one of the better suggests cranberry and raspberry, accompanied by gen- and French oak (two-thirds new). —P.G. 90 varietal Petit Verdots in Washington. This is full bodied, erous acidity. A hint of herb runs through the finish, but abv: 15.4% Price: $30 with black fruits and excellent concentration. It’s high- the tannins are well-managed and smooth. —P.G. Maryhill 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve Cab- lighted with suggestions of mint and vanilla, from 21 abv: 14.9% Price: $36 88 ernet Franc (Columbia Valley). Supple and months in 100% new French oak barrels. —P.G. inviting, this mellow take on Cabernet Franc has soft abv: 14.4% Price: $30 Two Mountain 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon cherry-pie flavors, a dash of pepper, and a smooth, choc- (Yakima Valley). This interesting Cabernet 88 olaty finish, with a pleasant, toasty, caramel aftertaste. combines brambly berry fruit with a streak of maple syr- —P.G. MALBEC up. Aged 22 months in a mix of French and American abv: 14.4% Price: $25 oak (roughly half new), it has picked up a hint of pickle àMaurice 2008 Malbec (Columbia Val- ley). A rush of blueberry introduces this ex- spice along the way. Flavors are nicely integrated and Woodinville Wine Cellars 2009 Cabernet 93 ceptional Malbec. Pure and deep, it is streaked with work well together on the lasting finish. —P.G. Franc (Columbia Valley). This pure Caber- 88 bark, iron, clove and dark chocolate. Impressively long abv: 13.8% Price: $28 net Franc, aged in 100% second-use French oak, dis- and focused, this has the structure and balance to de- plays nicely ripened fruit flavors of blackberry and black Eight Bells 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon cherry. Highlights of black pepper dapple the finish, velop further in the bottle. But as a young wine, it is (Red Mountain). 87 This young, grapy wine has which at first seems attenuated, but opens up nicely already delicious and utterly seductive. Cellar Selec- buoyant flavors of raspberry jam. It needs more time, with extended breathing time. Cellar Selection. —P.G. tion. —P.G. but the fruit is excellent; the finish just a little warm. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 abv: 14.1% Price: $35 —P.G. abv: 14.6% Price: $25 Saviah Cellars 2008 Cabernet Franc Camaraderie 2009 Crawford Vine- 87 (Walla Walla Valley). This rather tart red 90 yard Malbec (Yakima Valley). Here is a Gamache Vintners 2008 Estate Cabernet wine shows pretty blueberry fruit, though it is some- full-throttle style of Malbec, smoky and dark, with fla- 87 Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Tight black what dominated by barrel-influenced flavors. Vanilla vors of deep, dense black fruits wrapped in a coat of fruit and hints of stem and wood suggest that this herbal and coffee accents run through the nose and across the espresso and chocolate. A spicy, lingering finish holds Cabernet needs more time in bottle. The tannins are palate. It’s well made, though it lacks the depth and de- your attention with muscular, substantial tannins. —P.G. slightly green, and the softening influence of buttery tail of the best vintages. —P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $26 barrel aging has not yet been fully integrated. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $28 abv: 14.9% Price: $28 Fidelitas 2009 Malbec (Columbia Valley). Two Mountain 2008 Reserve Caber- 90 This tightly-wound, compact wine needs some AntoLin Cellars 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- 87 net Franc (Yakima Valley). For a reserve extra breathing time, but will reward patience with 86 gnon (Columbia Valley). Light and forward, wine, this seems rather light. Peppery red fruit fills expressive notes of blueberry jam, wild herb and pun- this pure Cabernet offers pretty strawberry fruit and out a broad midpalate, with streaks of bark, smoke and gent clove. The balance is just right, the tannins pol-

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 ished and firm, and the acidity keeps it fresh and lively. polished, and the finish lends a thread of iron.Cellar of smoke. The tannins are peppery and earthy, with a —P.G. Selection. —P.G. hint of stem; a European style, with poise and good bal- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.6% Price: $38 ance. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $50 Maryhill 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve Mal- Fidelitas 2009 Merlot (Columbia Valley). 90 bec (Columbia Valley). For full review see 91 Merlot is certainly one of the real strengths at Sinclair Estate Vineyards 2009 Merlot page 10. Fidélitas, and two different versions are offered. This 88 (Columbia Valley). This shows a strong Bour- abv: 13.3% Price: $25 broad and flavorful effort has pretty cherry fruit backed bon barrel flavor from the new oak that is still being in- with pleasing baking spices. The finish is focused and tegrated into the fruit. Tart wild-berry flavors surface- Walla Walla Vintners 2009 Pepper Bridge precise, adding streaks of cinnamon and chocolate. Edi- with air, but the impression is of a high-acid, sharply- 90 Vineyard Malbec (Walla Walla Valley). tors’ Choice. —P.G. defined Merlot; it’s structured for aging. —P.G. This pure Malbec carries spicy, slightly gamy scents abv: 14.6% Price: $25 abv: 14.3% Price: $35 similar to Syrah. Forward purple fruits fill the mouth, accented with notes of licorice, moist earth and dried Three Rivers 2008 Champoux Vine- Adamant Cellars 2008 Winemaker’s Se- herb. The finish leaves an impression of maple syrup, 91 yard Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills). A 87 lect Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). Sourced which is quite delicious. —P.G. standout from the first sniff, this powerful Merlot dis- from the Spofford Station Vineyard, this pure Merlot abv: 14.2% Price: $32 plays dark fruits across a broad, lush midpalate. Textural offers medium concentration, with mixed blueberry and tongue coating, it lifts the tannins with flavors of ca- and plum fruits, and a suggestion of some raisiny fruit Lookout Point 2008 Malbec (Columbia cao, coffee and cedar from barrel aging. Excellent inte- as well. All neutral oak was used, imparting no barrel 89 Valley). A dark and chewy Malbec, this dis- gration and length. Cellar Selection. —P.G. flavors. —P.G. plays a well-balanced mix of black fruits. Acids accent abv: 14.9% Price: $39 abv: 14.8% Price: $35 the wine like a wash of citrus. It’s young and still pulling itself together, but the material and styling are excel- Camaraderie 2009 Merlot (Washington). Maryhill 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve Mer- lent. —P.G. 90 Deliciously full and fleshy, this lusty, muscular 87 lot (Columbia Valley). This young Merlot abv: NA Price: $18 Merlot brings boatloads of dark cherry fruit and seams shows some muscle and some stem; the tannins and the of rich cacao. Tannins are firm and slightly chalky, but herbal flavors override the fruit, which has a sweet cher- Waterbrook 2009 Reserve Malbec (Co- the overall structure and length suggest a decade of life ry-candy character. Further bottle age should help pull 88 lumbia Valley). Juicy, tart and tightly wound, ahead. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. it together. —P.G. this pure Malbec has a core of wild, brambly berry and abv: 14.5% Price: $28 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 light plum. Nicely managed oak aging (28% new) brings in a lick of smoky caramel, clove and coffee. The flavors Pepper Bridge 2009 Merlot (Walla Walla Tertulia Cellars 2008 Pepper Bridge Vine- fall off a little too quickly on the finish. —P.G. 90 Valley). Spicy, peppery and still a bit sharp, this 87 yard Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). Hard and abv: 13.9% Price: $22 Merlot-dominated blend includes fruit from both estate showing an herbal edge, this single-vineyard Merlot will vineyards—Seven Hills and Pepper Bridge. It shows require some further bottle age and/or decanting. It Gamache Vintners 2008 Estate Malbec the seamless polish that marks all of Jean-François Pel- drinks more like a Cabernet than a Merlot, with a green 87 (Columbia Valley). The mix of fruits here is let’s wines. The finish is focused and long, with delicious slant to the tannins. —P.G. unusual, with flavors of citrus, stone fruit and berry all highlights of cinnamon and dark chocolate. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $28 in play. A pure Malbec, with lots of acid and a tight- abv: 14.1% Price: $50 ly wound middle, it should smooth out a bit with more Gamache Vintners 2008 Estate Merlot time in bottle. —P.G. Fielding Hills 2009 RiverBend Vineyard 86 (Columbia Valley). Hard and tannic at first, abv: 14.7% Price: $28 89 Merlot (Wahluke Slope). A whiff of volatility this young wine grudgingly reveals a core of very tart brightens up the aromas of this ripe Merlot. The struc- cherry fruit, encased in flavors of stem and wood. A Three Rivers 2009 Malbec (Columbia Val- ture is tight and compact, and the acidity is substantial. coffee-infused finish does not conceal the chewy, tough 87 ley). The production of Malbec at Three Rivers Clean fruit flavors of red and black berries can be found, tannins. —P.G. has risen dramatically, and the new vintage seems con- but this is a year in which all of the Fielding Hills wines abv: 14.7% Price: $24 siderably lighter and less complex than it previously did. would benefit from a bit more bottle age to knit togeth- Fruity and forward, it shows black cherry and cola fla- er. —P.G. Two Mountain 2008 Merlot (Yakima Val- vors, with a light streak of licorice. —P.G. abv: 16.1% Price: $36 86 ley). This Yakima Valley Merlot is forward and abv: 14.8% Price: $29 light, with a dried leaf character complementing the Walla Walla Vintners 2009 Merlot (Wal- fruit flavors of melon and strawberry. A peppery note 89 la Walla Valley). A chocolaty delight, this is strikes home in the finish, with just a hint of Band-Aid. MERLOT a soft and smoky style of Merlot. The dark fruit flavors —P.G. Dumas Station 2008 Estate Merlot (Wal- are accented with some toasted, slightly charred notes, abv: 13.7% Price: $22 la Walla Valley). Three quarters Merlot, with and cinnamon spices. As very good as it is, the mouth- 92 Gifford Hirlinger 2008 Estate Merlot 17% Cabernet Franc and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, this feel seems just a little broad as it flattens out the finish. (Walla Walla Valley). A candied nose intro- is a bit lighter than the 2007 Merlot, but just as good, —P.G. 85 duces light fruit and there’s and impression of some re- if not better. Lush and loaded with black cherry, black- abv: 14.2% Price: $28 sidual sugar on the finish. With extra breathing time to- berry, cocoa and baking spices, it extends deliciously Eight Bells 2009 Roosevelt Red Mer- bacco and vanilla notes emerge, but the fruit is ephem- and seamlessly into a long, ripe, smooth finish.Editors’ lot (Yakima Valley). This has pretty fruit fla- eral. —P.G. Choice. —P.G. 88 abv: 14.2% Price: $22 abv: 14.7% Price: $28 vors of plums and spicy black cherries. At first the wine seems sharp and slightly warm, but it mellows with air. Maryhill 2009 Merlot (Columbia Val- Camaraderie 2008 Reserve Merlot (Co- —P.G. ley). Soft and lightly fruity, this has an under- lumbia Valley). This reserve spends 30 abv: 14.2% Price: $18 85 91 lying chalkiness. That chalky sensation runs across the months in barrel. It has lovely aromatics, with subtle Fidelitas 2009 Merlot (Red Mountain). palate and seems to mute the other flavors, such as suggestions of tobacco and clove woven through the Surprisingly, this Red Mountain Merlot is rath- herb, which are on the light side. —P.G. base of ripe black cherry and cassis. The tannins are 88 er light and tart, showing cranberry fruit with a streak abv: 14.2% Price: $17

WineMag.com | 31 coffee, and iron filings. The wine’s excellent length fruits—berries and cherries, along with raisins—reflect SANGIOVESE and polished tannins showcase exceptional handling of the high alcohol. Even so, the wine carries an impres- Sinclair Estate Vineyards 2009 Sangio- superb fruit. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. sion of almost sugary sweetness, as if still not fermented 88 vese (Columbia Valley). Light and tight abv: 14.5% Price: $30 completely dry. Spice cake and plum pudding, with heat on the finish, mark this as extreme by previous Fielding fruit flavors of pretty berry open slowly after plenty of - breathing time. The wine is nicely structured, balanced Efeste 2009 Jolie Bouche Syrah (Yakima Hills standards. Drink soon. —P.G. with the addition of 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% 91 Valley). For full review see page 8. abv: 16.2% Price: $38 Malbec—the only drawback is the almost complete lack abv: 14.9% Price: $39 of aroma. Even with extended airing, the fruit comes Camaraderie 2009 Clifton Vineyard Syr- up but the nose stays closed, giving the impression of a Tertulia Cellars 2008 Les Collines Vine- 87 ah (Wahluke Slope). Medium bodied, this shortened finish. —P.G. 91 yard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). A fine ef- sharply defined wine brings in plenty of notes of herb, abv: 14.1% Price: $28 fort, with an inviting swirl of earthy components. Citrus, root and earth around its light berry fruit. It captures spice, earth, compost, coffee grounds and cinnamon the defining flavors of Wahluke Slope Syrah in a some- Zerba Cellars 2008 Sangiovese (Wal- comprise this detailed, aromatic wine. It sits squarely in what muted style, reflecting the abbreviated growing 87 la Walla Valley). Tart and lively, this medi- the classic mold of the better Walla Walla Syrahs. —P.G. season. —P.G. um-bodied Sangiovese was co-fermented with small abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 14.4% Price: $28 amounts of Syrah and Viognier. The Viognier contrib- utes scents of citrus and stone fruit, which add some Watermill 2008 Syrah (Walla Walla Val- Sinclair Estate Vineyards 2009 Syrah welcome complexity. —P.G. 91 ley). Smooth and chocolaty, this palate-coating 87 (Walla Walla Valley). Given plenty of breath- abv: 14.7% Price: $30 Syrah brings ripe black-cherry flavors into a lush and ing time and careful consideration, this barrel-aged Syr- compelling core. Just a hint of leather does not detract ah still seemed soaked in vanilla. The oaky flavors over- Maryhill 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve San- from the powerful fruit. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. powered the pretty fruit, even with the addition of 21% 86 giovese (Columbia Valley). The reserve abv: 14.9% Price: $24 Grenache. —P.G. seems to have spent more time in barrel, bearing a abv: 14.5% Price: $35 chocolatey finish, but otherwise it is quite similar to the Dumas Station 2009 Estate Syrah (Walla Marryhill’s regular Sangiovese. Slightly higher alcohol 90 Walla Valley). Mellow and complex, this is a Syzygy 2008 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). makes for a bit more concentration of the strawberry highly approachable wine, offering butter-soft tannins, 87 This vintage of Syzygy Syrah lacks the complexi- fruit, but the herbal, peppery bite is still there in the ripe fruits, and interesting highlights of grain, earth and ty of past versions, with fruit that is a bit on the thin side, finish. —P.G. caramel. A fine expression of the unique estate terroir. or perhaps just hidden by alcohol and oak. The wine abv: 14.6% Price: $20 —P.G. shows powerful vanilla and tobacco aromas, and they abv: 15.4% Price: $30 carry through on the palate, masking the fruit. —P.G. 15.2% $33 Maryhill 2009 Sangiovese (Columbia Val- - abv: Price: 85 ley). Light fruit suggests strawberries with a Efeste 2009 Ceidleigh Syrah (Red Moun- slightly green edge. The tannins are still a bit rough and 90 tain). For full review see page 9. Cellar Se- Frenchman’s Gulch 2008 Syrah (Wash- tumble, with a peppery kick. —P.G. lection. 86 ington). Sourced from the excellent Lewis abv: 13.8% Price: $17 abv: 14.9% Price: $38 Vineyard, this toasty, chewy Syrah displays black cherry fruit against a strong background of vanilla. At first it Hogue 2009 Genesis Syrah (Columbia seems tart to the point of being almost sour, but as it SYRAH 90 Valley). For full review see page 10. Editors’ breathes, the oak mutes some of the acid and balances Choice. it out. —P.G. Efeste- 2009 Eléni Syrah (Yakima Valley). abv: 13.9% Price: $16 abv: 13.7% Price: $25 94 For full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.9% Price: $45 Plumb Cellars 2008 Syrah (Columbia Val- Maryhill 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve Syr- 90 ley). Estate grown, this 100% Syrah has excel- ah (Columbia Valley). Forward and pleasant, Eight Bells 2009 Syrah (Yakima Valley). 86 lent concentration and round, mouthfilling fruit flavors. with a balanced attack of berry and peppery herb, this The three partners in this new venture have de- 93 Cherries and plums are highlighted with baking spices saw 20 months in one-fifth new French oak. The result- cades of winemaking experience among them, and it and a finishing wash of rich mocha. Very tasty, forward, ing toasty, lightly-chocolaty finish is pleasing, though it shows. With 15% Grenache blended in, the result is a and drinking at its best right now. —P.G. tends to override the subtle fruit. Drink soon. —P.G. ripe, lightly funky, spicy rendition of Syrah that nicely abv: 14.6% Price: $24 abv: 14.6% Price: $25 marries the earthiness to racy wild-berry flavors and a peppery finish. Great length. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Sparkman 2009 Darkness Syrah (Co- Robert Ramsay 2009 McKinley Springs abv: 14.7% Price: $25 90 lumbia Valley). Ripe fruit flavors of berry and 86 Vineyard Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills). plum are enveloped in spice-cake highlights. The citrus- Strong and aggressive, this dark and almost syrupy Syr- Sparkman 2009 Ruckus Syrah (Red infused acids bring in a hint of grapefruit and lemon. ah crosses the line from high-toned to volatile. The Cal- Mountain). Almost impenetrably dark, this 93 This is a complex wine, with fascinating components, ifornia-style, grapey fruit flavors of plum and blueberry juicy Syrah includes 25% Cabernet Sauvignon. The and beginning to pull itself together. —P.G. should warrant a higher score, but for some tasters the Red Mountain fruit brings a blast of boysenberry and abv: 14.6% Price: $56 volatility will be too much. —P.G. black cherry fruit, heightened with citrusy acidity. It’s an abv: 14.4% Price: $25 expression of pure fruit power, with barrel notes of AntoLin Cellars 2009 Syrah (Yakima Val- black coffee and tannins that taste of wet rock. This is a 88 ley). A clean, varietal nose introduces this com- Maryhill 2009 Syrah (Columbia Valley). wine that should have a good decade of life ahead. Cel- plex Yakima Valley Syrah. Mixed notes of fennel, anise, 84 This is a typical, standard style of Syrah, that lar Selection. —P.G. herb and coffee wrap around tight, tangy red fruits. The tastes strongly of vanilla rather than of the actual grape. abv: 14.9% Price: $NA balance and definition are excellent; the finish has just a The fruit is muted, but the vanilla and tobacco flavors hint of stem. —P.G. stand out. —P.G. Syncline 2010 McKinley Springs Vine- abv: 14.6% Price: $24 abv: 14.3% Price: $17 93 yard Syrah (Horse Heaven Hills). This pure, supple, fruit-laden Syrah is loaded with Fielding Hills 2009 RiverBend Vineyard Castle Rock 2009 Syrah (Columbia Val- wild blackberry fruit, and detailed veins of licorice, 88 Syrah (Wahluke Slope). Ultraripe black 83 ley). Quite tannic and herbal, this is no match

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 for the previous vintage. Barely ripe, with a bitter edge bright bouquet of violet, berry, pepper and stone greets Gifford Hirlinger 2009 Stateline Red (Wal- to the finish. —P.G. you at first sniff, and it gets better and better from there. 91 la Walla Valley). For full review see page 8. abv: NA Price: $11 Dark fruits weave through a supple and striated flavor abv: 13.9% Price: $16 palette, long and detailed. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $43 Plumb Cellars 2009 Plumb Crazy Red RED BLENDS 91 (Columbia Valley). Surprising and delightful, Maison Bleue 2010 Gravière Upland Pepper Bridge 2009 Seven Hills Vineyard this blend of Syrah and Merlot brings a complex mix of 96 Vineyard Mourvèdre-Syrah-Grenache 93 (Walla Walla Valley). For full review see page botanical highlights to a base of citrusy red-berry fla- (Snipes Mountain District). For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice. vors. Notes of black pepper and granite-like mineral- abv: 14.1% Price: $60 3. Cellar Selection. ity add more interest. The depth and persistence are abv: 14.5% Price: $45 remarkable in a wine at this price. Editors’ Choice. àMaurice 2008 Syrah-Grenache (Colum- —P.G. Andrew Will 2009 Sorella (Horse Heaven 92 bia Valley). There’s just 15% Grenache in the abv: 14.5% Price: $18 95 Hills). Sourced entirely from the Champoux blend, but the label lists it along with the dominant Vineyard, this Bordeaux-style blend is two-thirds Cab- Syrah. The wine is tight at first, then rich aromas of Saviah Cellars 2009 Une Vallée (Walla ernet Sauvignon. Yummy from the first sniff to the last plum, berry and mocha open to reveal a bright and tangy 91 Walla Valley). Rich and toasty, round and full sip, it’s packed with juicy berries and cassis, gracefully midpalate that nicely matches perfectly ripened fruit across the palate, this thoroughly-enjoyable new release wrapped in layers of black olive, toast, clean earth and to the sweet barrel spices. Good concentration and ex- is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with a splash dark chocolate. Tannins are ripe and smooth. Cellar cellent acidity complete the picture. Editors’ Choice. of Cabernet Franc. It was aged 17 months in 60% new Selection. —P.G. —P.G. French oak, yielding a spicy, chocolaty wine, with viv- abv: 14.5% Price: $75 abv: NA Price: $34 id, bright fruit flavors of cherries and plums. Excellent length, balance and texture. —P.G. Buty 2009 Champoux Vineyard Cabernet àMaurice 2008 Red Blend (Columbia Val- abv: 14.3% Price: $32 94 ley). This “Tobey” Artist Series release is 44% 92 Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc (Horse Heav- Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc and 26% en Hills). High toned and grapy when first opened, this Sparkman 2009 Ruby Leigh (Red Moun- Merlot. Sweet scents of toast and cherry fruit introduce opens up nicely with decanting. Pretty raspberry and 91 tain). This is 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc a wine with exceptional detail and density. Its core of light cherry fruit are enhanced with aromas of fresh-cut and 10% Malbec. It’s forward, fruity, and almost plump, cherry fruit is highlighted with cinnamon and baking tobacco and just-picked herbs. The length and detail are with a beguiling mix of spices and barrel notes, includ- spices, and the finishing tannins are polished and pre- impressive. —P.G. ing red licorice, cola, mocha, smoke and chai. Concen- abv: 14.3% Price: $55 cise. The elegance, persistence and sheer finesse of this trated and long, the finish is very clean. —P.G. wine is most impressive. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. - abv: 14.6% Price: $42 abv: 14.6% Price: $35 Efeste 2009 Emmy (Wahluke Slope). For 92 full review see page 6. Syzygy 2007 Saros 154 (Columbia Val- abv: 14.9% Price: $38 Buty 2008 Phinny Hill Vineyard Colum- 91 ley). This tightly-wound effort is built from 94 bia Rediviva Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah 40% Malbec, 40% Tempranillo and 20% Cabernet Sau- (Horse Heaven Hills). A blend of 60% Cabernet Maison Bleue 2010 Jaja Red Wine Gre- nache-Syrah-Mourvèdre (Yakima Valley). vignon. It’s forceful and elegant, with streaks of black Sauvignon and 40% Syrah—this is a focused wine, with 92 tea, anise and iron filings set in tangy red fruits that play For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice. complex nuances of licorice, tar, mineral and lead pen- out vertically through a lingering finish.Cellar Selec- cil, but it is buttressed by the compact, concentrated red abv: 14.5% Price: $25 tion. —P.G. and black fruits. The dusty tannins are reminiscent of abv: 14.4% Price: $45 a Napa wine, with excellent length and polish. Cellar Walla Walla Vintners 2008 Bello Rosso Cabernet Sauvignon-Sangiovese (Co- Selection. —P.G. 92 Adamant Cellars 2008 Nalin (Columbia abv: 14.3% Price: $48 lumbia Valley). Half Sangiovese and half Caber- net Sauvignon, the Bello Rosso marries immediate 90 Valley). A Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet, Malbec and Merlot, this bright and grapy effort pleas- Fielding Hills 2009 RiverBend Vineyard appeal with the structure for some additional years ingly integrates slightly rougher notes of earth, leaf and Tribute Red (Wahluke Slope). This in- of aging. Boysenberry and vivid black-cherry flavors 94 stem. It all works here, adding texture and detail to the teresting blend consists of 31% Cabernet Franc, 30% show excellent definition and penetration, and are tart berry fruits. Drink in the next 3–5 years. —P.G. Syrah, 20% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Sauvignon. highlighted with barrel accents of clove and sweet spic- abv: 14.3% Price: $27 Roasty, toasty aromas explode from the glass, with gor- es. Over many hours this wine continued to improve geous barrel notes of cedar and smoke. Bright raspberry and expand. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Baer 2009 Ursa (Columbia Valley). A and cherry fruit is set amid generous streaks of caramel, abv: 14.5% Price: $32 lighter Ursa than recent vintages, the 2009 is maple syrup and coffee liqueur. High-toned and expres- 90 a young purple-violet color, with grapy aromas and a sive, it is the most accessible and complete of the 2009 Beast 2009 Wildebeest (Columbia Val- broad, fruity palate. Hints of roasted nuts express bar- releases from Fielding Hills. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. 91 ley). Fragrant and plush aromas of cassis, blue- abv: 15.7% Price: $32 berry and black cherry mix with strong notes of licorice rel aging, and the wine has good grip, though the fruit and black olive. Silky, detailed, supple and beautifully flavors at this stage are still primary. Give this one some Andrew Will 2009 Champoux Vineyard proportioned, this is a terrific value. —P.G. further bottle age to smooth out. —P.G. 93 (Horse Heaven Hills). This is a fascinating abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $39 wine, offering a pleasing mélange of fruits—loads of berries and cherries to be sure, but also intriguing sug- Buty 2009 Rediviva of the Stones Syr- Buty 2010 Merlot-Cabernet Franc (Co- gestions of oranges and peaches. Detailed and nicely 91 ah-Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla 90 lumbia Valley). Light red-fruit flavors are toasty on the finish, this excellent effort will reward fur- Valley). Sharp and herbal, this new Rediviva has a spiced up beautifully with cinnamon and sweet toast. ther bottle age. —P.G. high-acid, peppery profile. It penetrates deeply into the This is an elegant, peppery wine that’s well defined and abv: 14.5% Price: $62 palate, with excellent length. The herbal side of both still showing some youthful sharpness. It will reward ad- the Syrah and the Cabernet is what is most forcefully ditional bottle age and should cellar well for up to a de- Baer 2009 Arctos (Columbia Valley). expressed. Cellar Selection. —P.G. cade. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 93 This Bordeaux-style blend is Baer’s top wine. A abv: 13.8% Price: $60 abv: 14.1% Price: $45

WineMag.com | 33 Sparkman 2009 Wilderness (Columbia Consequently, it’s a bit of a mish-mash, fruity to the seen if all that barrel toast will ultimately meld into the 90 Valley). This is a five-grape blend, with leafy point of grapy, medium long, with the barrel flavors un- rest of the wine. —P.G. flavors of garden-fresh herbs as well as ripe strawberries resolved. Give this one another year or two of aging to abv: 14.7% Price: $65 and vanilla cream. It’s a smooth and immediately pleas- allow all the components to come together. —P.G. ing wine, with a velvety finish. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $40 Charles & Charles 2010 Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 14.7% Price: $28 87 gnon-Syrah (Columbia Valley). For full re- Andrew Will 2009 Ciel du Cheval Vine- view see page 13. Best Buy. Watermill 2008 Estate Midnight Red 88 yard (Red Mountain). Among all the latest abv: 13.5% Price: $11 90 (Walla Walla Valley). This Cabernet-domi- 2009 releases from Andrew Will, the Ciel du Cheval nated Bordeaux-style blend is more subtle and complex is the most shuttered and in need of further bottle age. Eight Bells 2009 Shellback (Yakima Val- than its high alcohol would suggest. Nicely constructed, Tight and tannic, it is unusually herbal for this hot cli- 87 ley). This blend is 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, it has a light red-fruit flavor, with elements of leaf and mate site. Even after many hours of breathing time, it 40% Merlot, and 20% Syrah. Cassis, vanilla and espres- earth. The tannins are proportionate and supportive, remains stubbornly closed. Given the vineyard history so flavors dominate the palate in equal proportion, with and the acidity is natural. —P.G. and winery credentials, it seems highly likely to improve very astringent, drying tannins. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $30 significantly with more time. —P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $55 Woodinville Wine Cellars 2009 G-S-M Insania 2009 Red (Red Mountain). Pro- 90 (Columbia Valley). This blend is 50% Baer 2009 Star (Columbia Valley). This is 87 duced by Three Rivers for celebrity winemaker Mourvèdre, 25% Grenache and 25% Syrah, with leath- 88 a new blend from Baer. Merlot dominant, it’s Geoff Tate, the Insania is actually rather tame. Pretty er, herb and earth tones on the bouquet and palate. The forward, fruity and fresh, offering pleasant strawberry fruit flavors of berry, cherry and plum introduce the fruit was sourced entirely from the relatively cool Still- and mocha flavors. Though at first sip it seems to fade wine gracefully, then run into some stiff, drying, chalky water Creek Vineyard. An excellent, balanced composi- quickly, it becomes more fleshy in the glass and thickens tannins. —P.G. tion. —P.G. up nicely. —P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.9% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $27 Maryhill 2010 Winemaker’s Red (Colum- Andrew Will 2009 Two Blondes Vineyard Camaraderie 2009 Elégance Meek Fam- 87 bia Valley). Tart and spicy, with tangy raspber- 89 (Yakima Valley). Two-thirds of the blend is 88 ily Vineyard (Yakima Valley). Elégance is a ry and black cherry fruit. The chocolaty tannins make Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, initially tan- five-grape Bordeaux-style blend, sourced from a single for a nice finish. —P.G. nic with an emphasis on the greener flavors sometimes vineyard. Sweet oak scents waft up from the glass, a lush abv: 13.6% Price: $NA found in those grapes. It’s well-balanced, elegant and melding of various toasts, over pretty raspberry flavors. tart, with highlights of cinnamon and chocolate from The wine is sensuous and elegant, already quite drink- Maryhill 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve Ser- aging in one-third new French oak barrels. —P.G. able, and seems to slip away gently before you are quite 87 endipity Red (Columbia Valley). This is a abv: 14.5% Price: $55 ready for it to leave. —P.G. Bordeaux-style blend of 48% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% abv: 14.5% Price: $38 Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, 7% Malbec and 4% Pe- Camaraderie 2009 Grâce (Columbia Val- tit Verdot. It’s battened down a bit at the moment, but 89 ley). A spicy, piny note lifts the aroma of this Dumas Station 2009 Cow Catcher Red mixed berries and a wealth of sweet baking spices peek young Bordeaux-style blend. It’s nicely defined and ap- 88 (Walla Walla Valley). This blend is roughly through. The finish tails off with a hint of herb and com- pears at first delicate, but opens up broadly in the glass half Cabernet Sauvignon. It spends 18 months in bar- post. —P.G. and turns meaty, smoky and tannic, with arresting dark- rel, 40% of it new American oak. Smooth and open, it’s abv: 13.9% Price: $30 cherry and cassis flavors. —P.G. a tasty young wine reminiscent of chocolate-covered abv: 14.5% Price: $38 cherries. —P.G. Revelry 2008 Reserve Blend (Colum- abv: 13.5% Price: $24 87 bia Valley). Despite the reserve designation, Camaraderie 2009 Madrona (Colum- this is a forward, fruity, quaffable red blend of Merlot, 89 bia Valley). Named for a tree native to the Revelry 2009 The Reveler (Columbia Val- Cabernet, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. There’s plenty of Northwest coast, this red blend is 60% Dolcetto, the 88 ley). The Reveler is Revelry’s mainstay blend, a toast and spice up front, along with somewhat chalky, rest Merlot and Syrah. Unusual, but it works well, push- mix of roughly equal parts of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet chocolatey tannins. The finish fades quickly. —P.G. ing the luscious red fruits forward, which are bright and Sauvignon, and Merlot. Floral and powdered sugar abv: 13.9% Price: $35 well-defined. Just a hint of pepper and dark chocolate is scents lead into a light and pretty palate, showcasing red woven through the finish. Though not as big as the win- berry flavors and a touch of minerality. —P.G. Sparkman 2009 Stella Mae (Red Moun- ery’s varietal wines, it has a pleasing, supple elegance. abv: 13.9% Price: $20 87 tain). This Stella Mae is 50% Cabernet Sauvi- Editors’ Choice. —P.G. gnon, 30% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. It remains abv: 14.3% Price: $23 Syncline 2010 Carignan-Grenache (Co- a rather lean wine in the Sparkman portfolio, despite 88 lumbia Valley). Carignan takes the lead here, having alcohol at 14.6%. Here are lightly earthy flavors Fidelitas 2008 Optu (Columbia Valley). composing roughly two-thirds of the blend. Young, tart, of strawberry and herb, with a hint of green in the tan- 89 For the moment, this is rather hard and tight, still primary and chewy on the palate, this subtle, ex- nins. —P.G. with notes of black pepper around tangy berry fruit. pressive wine displays an underlying minerality backing abv: 14.6% Price: $45 There are interesting streaks of iron and graphite, and pie cherry fruit. —P.G. a balanced structure that suggests extended cellaring abv: 14.1% Price: $25 Syncline 2010 Subduction Red (Colum- may be an option. This blend is 61% Cabernet Sauvi- 87 bia Valley). Fruit ripeness in 2010 was gener- gnon, 22% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 6% Mal- Three Rivers 2008 Svelte (Columbia Val- ally much more difficult to achieve than in 2009. This bec. —P.G. 88 ley). This new Bordeaux-style red could tech- Southern Rhône-style blend has not yet come out of its abv: 14.8% Price: $40 nically be labeled Cabernet Sauvignon, as it accounts rather tough, chewy shell. The flavor of hard cherry can- for 82% of the blend. Pungently smoky, the impression dy is wrapped in rock-like tannins, needing more bottle Sinclair Estate Vineyards 2009 Penta- of charred wood penetrates into the deep core of cassis time to smooth out. Lay it down for a couple of years 89 tonic Red (Columbia Valley). The blend and black cherry. Dark and quite tannic, it remains to be while enjoying the 2009 Subduction Red. —P.G. is 51% Merlot, the rest divided among five other abv: 14.4% Price: $20 grapes, including Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec.

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 Tertulia Cellars 2008 Sobra (Columbia approach that characterizes all Syncline wines, with ap- OTHER NORTH AMERICA 87 Valley). This is a fresh and forward effort that’s pealing elegance. You will find flavors of wild strawber- based on all six Bordeaux grapes. It bears pretty plum ry, sweet tomato, and a dusting of cocoa in the finish. and cherry flavors, with a chocolaty wash over the quick IDAHO —P.G. finish. —P.G. abv: 13.1% Price: $25 Pend d’Oreille 2009 Chardonnay (Idaho). abv: 14.9% Price: $20 85 Savory on the nose and palate, with a slightly dusty apple note that lingers amidst whiffs of vanilla, Zerba Cellars 2008 Wild Z (Walla Wal- Camaraderie 2009 Tempranillo (Yakima spice, potpourri and sweet cream. Big in body and al- la Valley). A “kitchen sink” blend of Merlot, 87 Valley). This is a mix of fruit from both warm 86 cohol. —A.I. and cool vineyards, crafting a clean, fresh, lightly herb- Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot, the Wild abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Z shows far more flavors of vanilla and black tea than al wine with a pleasing dusty character. Hints of cocoa fruit. A popular style to be sure, fine for everyday drink- and toast annotate the tart berry fruit, with a thread of ing. —P.G. smoke and chalk running through the tannins. —P.G. MASSACHUSETTS abv: 14.1% Price: $20 abv: NA Price: $28 Truro 2009 Unoaked Chardonnay (South- Gamache Vintners 2009 Boulder Red 85 eastern New England). Unabashedly tropi- Maryhill 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve Zin- (Columbia Valley). Flavors of cracker and cal on the nose and palate with gobs of ripe mango, 85 fandel (Columbia Valley). toast accompany light raspberry fruit. The wine is a bit 87 Cherries and guava and peach, this cheerful Chardonnay is fresh and unbalanced, and it falls a little flat on the finish. —P.G. chocolate are the hallmark of the Zins at Maryhill. juicy, with lemon-lime acidity and a surprisingly-elegant abv: 14.9% Price: $18 The fruit is pretty and the chocolate smooth, certainly minerality on the finish. Drink now. —A.I. a crowd-pleasing style. The finish is clean and supple. abv: 12% Price: $16 Two Mountain NV Hidden Horse (Wash- —P.G. ington). This sturdy red is a blend of four Bor- Truro 2008 Estate Grown Chardonnay 85 abv: 15.2% Price: $30 deaux grapes, with a tannic, earthy structure. It has the 84 (Southeastern New England). Bright gold sort of rugged power that you’d look for in a café wine, in color, this is fragrant of sweet spice, smoke and or- Maryhill 2009 Zinfandel (Columbia Val- ready to take on a juicy burger and some fries. —P.G. ange rind. Medium-bodied in style, the palate is a tad ley). This sleek and herbal Zinfandel shows abv: 13.9% Price: $15 86 tart, with notes of sour apple, lemon and underripe tan- good balance, matching tart red fruits against sugges- gerine. Finishes on a sour wood note. —A.I. tions of dried leaves and spices. There is a smooth, abv: 12% Price: $25 OTHER RED WINES chocolate and vanilla coating that masks the bitter edge Maison Bleue 2010 La Montagnette Up- on the finish. —P.G. 94 land Vineyard Grenache (Snipes Moun- abv: 14.2% Price: $17 tain District). For full review see page 4. Cellar Se- Unionville Vineyards 2010 Unionville lection. Two Mountain 2010 Lemberger (Rattle- 83 Home Single Vineyard Estate Bottled abv: 14.8% Price: $35 86 snake Hills). Lemberger is a grapy red, with Chardonnay (New Jersey). Quite savory on the nose and palate, with notes of cooked apple, lemon and broad and simple fruit flavors, often with a rustic, tannic peach purée. This is judiciously oaked with bright, lem- Watermill 2008 Tempranillo (Columbia finish. Here it’s been done in a lighter style, with a dried Valley). A jump forward in quality for this pure on-lime acidity that livens up the palate. —A.I. 91 leaf note and lightly dusty tannins. —P.G. Tempranillo. It opens with a dark, smoky nose—oaky abv: 13.1% Price: $36 abv: 13.4% Price: $16 but compelling. The midpalate remains tight and hard, but shows muscular black fruits, good length, and leads nicely into a balanced finish with ripe tannins. Editors’ Zerba Cellars 2008 Dolcetto (Walla Walla NEW YORK Choice. —P.G. 86 Valley). Dolcetto is still a rare sighting in Wash- Paumanok 2010 Grand Vintage Chardon- abv: 14.5% Price: $28 ington, and the vines that exist are still quite young. Not 90 nay (North Fork of Long Island). Created surprising then that this pleasant red is rather simple, only in exceptional years like 2010, this is a beautiful Robert Ramsay 2009 McKinley Springs with red fruit flavors and a subtle streak of pepper. The example of New York Chardonnay. Elegant on the nose Vineyard Mourvèdre (Horse Heaven 90 tannins are a little on the stemmy side. —P.G. and palate, with penetrating notes of Meyer lemons, Hills). Good concentration and clear varietal flavors abv: 14.7% Price: $30 honey and waxy white flowers, this is an opulent, full- mark this excellent Washington Mourvèdre. The mixed bodied wine that’s judiciously oaked and concentrated red fruits are well integrated, with a strong vein of min- Maryhill 2009 (Columbia Valley). through the finish. Drinks gorgeously now, but could eral, and a finishing wash of vanilla, coffee and choco- easily hold 3-5 years. —A.I. A simple red, with sharp acids that give an edgy late. Lots of barrel flavors to be sure, but the fruit can 84 abv: 13.9% Price: $36 take it. —P.G. cut to the mouthfeel. This would be a fine pizza wine, or abv: 14.2% Price: $35 good with grilled sausages. —P.G. Bedell 2010 Chardonnay (North Fork of abv: 13.1% Price: $17 89 Long Island). Beautifully pristine on the nose Syncline 2010 Mourvèdre (Horse Heav- and palate, with concentrated notes of fresh lemon 89 en Hills). Tangy red fruits mix with berries and Maryhill 2009 Proprietor’s Reserve Gre- and apple, with hints of waxy white flower and honey- unusual hints of banana and coconut in this 100% vari- 84 nache (Columbia Valley). This brings light comb. There’s significant weight and body on the palate, etal Mourvèdre. The tannins are light and proportion- flavors of leaf and hard cherry candy, with a hint of cola. amplified by notes of sweet cream, smoke and an uma- ate. This is a very good depiction of both the grape and After its quick start, the wine tails off gently. —P.G. mi-rich salinity that lingers on the finish. Fermented en- vintage. —P.G. tirely with ambient yeasts. Drink now. —A.I. abv: 14.8% Price: $20 abv: 14.4% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $25

Syncline 2010 Pinot Noir (Washington). Castle Rock 2010 Pinot Noir (Columbia Paumanok 2011 Festival Chardon- 88 2010 was a tough vintage in the Columbia 82 Valley). Thin and earthy, this is Pinot Noir at 89 nay (North Fork of Long Island). Aro- Gorge, so the sources for this rare Washington Pinot its most herbal, with no fruit in sight. —P.G. matic and refreshing, with scents of white blossoms, appear to have changed. It shows the careful, balanced abv: NA Price: $11 stonefruits and a hint of beeswax, this is fermented en-

WineMag.com | 35 tirely in stainless steel and meant to be enjoyed fresh Lucas Vineyards 2010 Dry Chardonnay Lovingston 2010 Wahoo White Chardon- and young. Squeaky clean on the palate with hints of 85 (Finger Lakes). Scents of sweet-cream but- 86 nay (Monticello). Scents of fresh lemons, white peach, underripe pineapple, lime pith and a ter, vanilla and stonefruit are enticing on the nose of herbs and white flowers grace this delicately structured, bright, lemony acidity that tickles the palate. —A.I. this richly textured, medium-bodied wine. The palate unoaked Chardonnay. Brisk and tonic on the palate, it’s abv: 12% Price: $17 boasts hints of sweet lemon curd and fresh apple, but a breezy white that’s perfect for summer sipping. —A.I. the slightly-sour oak notes can be overwhelming. —A.I. abv: 12.2% Price: $15 Paumanok 2010 Barrel Fermented Char- abv: 12.4% Price: $14 89 donnay (North Fork of Long Island). Ex- Barrel Oak 2009 Barrel Fermented Char- uberant aromas of white blossoms and ripe stonefruit Standing Stone 2010 Chardonnay (Fin- 85 donnay (Virginia). Rich and full bodied, this settle substantially in the glass, revealing a rich yet lay- 85 ger Lakes). Hints of lightly toasted oak high- abounds with pretty flower, sweet peach and pear aro- ered palate that marries sweet cream and butter notes light bright, fresh apple and lemon flavors on this easy mas mingled with a toasted oak. It’s decidedly oaky on with lemon pith, smoke and striking acidity. Full and drinking Chardonnay. Delicately structured with a vi- the palate, with an abundance of smoke, vanilla and co- opulent, but elegant and balanced. Drink now. —A.I. brant, zesty acidity, it finishes with just a hint of sea conut notes. Generous in body, this has nicely extracted abv: 13.9% Price: $24 breeze. —A.I. apple and lemon flavors. Drink now. —A.I. abv: 11.9% Price: $11 abv: 13.2% Price: $27 Knapp 2011 Barrel Reserve Chardonnay 88 (Finger Lakes). Our first taste of the 2011 Thousand Islands Winery 2010 Char- Barrel Oak 2009 Reserve Chardonnay Chards from the Finger Lakes, Knapp’s Barrel Reserve 85 donnay (New York). Savory on the nose and 85 (Virginia). Scents of roasted nuts and apples is wonderfully crisp and refreshing with an abundance palate, with persistent dill, coconut and vanilla notes, gain levity on the palate with flavors of lemons and deli- of fresh pear and lemon flavor. Subtly oaked with just there’s an abundance of American oak on this wine. cate white flowers. Richly textured, this has a slightly- a hint of vanilla and cream that lingers on the palate. Medium bodied, this is creamy and oaky on the palate, viscous but refreshingly-fruity profile. —A.I. Drink now. —A.I. with a slightly-bitter herb finish. —A.I. abv: 13.2% Price: $28 abv: 13% Price: $14 abv: 12% Price: $12 Veramar 2010 Barrel Fermented Char- Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2010 Chardonnay Brooklyn 2009 Chardonnay 85 donnay (Shenandoah Valley). While the 87 (Finger Lakes). Fragrant apple blossom and 84 (North Fork of Long Island). Scents of fresh nose on this Chardonnay is decidedly savory, with notes vanilla custard notes are delightful on this luxurious and dill, toasted coconut and buttery pastry pair well with of cooked apples and buttery cheese rinds, the palate is balanced Chardonnay. Sweet butter and cream notes on flavors of fresh apple, lemon and sea brine on this full- surprisingly feminine, with pretty orange-blossom and the midpalate add weight, but are offset by brisk acidity bodied Chardonnay. This is savory in style, with a slight- apple jelly notes. Opulent and fruity, yet refreshingly- and a spray of saline on the finish. —A.I. ly muted palate. —A.I. balanced in alcohol and acidity. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 13.9% Price: $21

Hosmer Winery 2010 Chardonnay (Ca- Three Fox NV Gatto Bianco Chardonnay- 87 yuga Lake). The scents of lightly toasted oak, NORTH CAROLINA 83 Viognier (Virginia). Hints of cooked apple waxy lemon rind and orange blossoms are enticing. On Biltmore 2010 Reserve Chardonnay and chalk dust contrast with a slightly confectionery the palate, ripe, concentrated peach and apricot flavors sweetness on the palate of this simple, apple-y Vwhite (North Carolina). There are enticing hints are bathed in a subtly-sweet cream note that adds rich- 86 blend. This is medium bodied, with a finish that verges of berries and cream on the bouquet. On the palate, a ness, but isn’t cloying. Brisk with acidity, the finish is on sugary. —A.I. floral note mingles with apple, lemon and just a dash eminently refreshing. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $23 of vanilla spice. This is full bodied and substantial in abv: 13.1% Price: $13 structure. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $15 Knapp 2011 Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). OTHER AMERICA This is intensely aromatic, with loads of tropical 87 Truro 2010 Barrel Fermented Chardon- fruit, apple blossom and white peach notes on the nose OHIO nay (America). Darkly charred wood min- and palate. It’s fresh, tasty and big in body, yet deftly 85 gles with scents of coconut, dill and sweet spice on this balanced. Soft, lemony acidity on the midpalate gets a Debonné 2009 Chardonnay (Grand Riv- heavily-oaked Chardonnay. Hints of smoke and hazel- boost of citrus rind and saline on the finish.Best Buy. er Valley). Who knew Ohio made such tasty 87 nuts seep into the palate as well, but serve to highlight —A.I. Chardonnay? Bright and fresh, with scents of green ap- fresh, fruity flavors of pear, lemon and orange rind. This abv: 13.5% Price: $12 ple, pear, fresh herbs and just a hint of nut oil. This dry, finishes on a slightly-bitter wood note. —A.I. medium-bodied wine offsets juicy flavors of nectarines abv: 12% Price: $16 Sherwood House Vineyards 2010 Char- and apples against a backdrop of sweet cream and white 86 donnay (North Fork of Long Island). flowers that lingers on the finish. Drink now. Best Buy. Sweet scents of apple, tropical fruit and sweet butter —A.I. CANADA are layered amid nuances of smoke and toasted oak on abv: 12% Price: $11 this full-bodied, savory Chardonnay. While smoky and Château des Charmes 2009 St. David’s dark in profile on the palate, it’s maintains crisp apple 86 Bench Vineyard Chardonnay (St. Da- and lemon flavors through the finish. —A.I. VIRGINIA vid’s Bench). Aromas of fresh figs, strawberries and abv: 13% Price: $30 Chatham Vineyards 2009 Church Creek dark flowers add mystery and unusual dimension to this wine. Tangy on the palate, with notes of underripe Steel Chardonnay (Virginia). Scents of can- Six Mile Creek 2010 Chardonnay (Fin- 87 stonefruit and vibrant lime-inflected acidity, it’s a re- died pineapple, ripe pear and lemon entice on this in- ger Lakes). Scents of lemon zest, under- freshingly different wine that would complement a vari- 86 tensely-fruity yet refreshing wine. Fermented entirely ripe pineapple and white flower abound on this dry, ety of fowl or creamy cheeses. Specialty Cellars. —A.I. in stainless steel, the palate is pristine, with ripe, sweet surprisingly-lean Chardonnay, with hints of sweet cream abv: 13% Price: $20 stonefruit, tangerine acidity, and just a hint of grapefruit and vanilla. Brisk with crisp apple flavor, it finishes clean pith on the finish. —A.I. with just a hint of salinity. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $13

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 bouquet, where sawdust and resin aromas render any apple. This has a simple finish. A blend of 80% Xarello SPAIN fruit to the upper deck. Feels resiny and sappy, and nev- and 20% Riesling. Steve Miles Selections. —M.S. er really moves off that feel. Tastes of oak, baked apple abv: 12.5% Price: $15 RUEDA and banana, with resiny oak controlling the finish. Nice Naia 2008 Naiades Verdejo (Rueda). but not great. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. Palos 2010 Verdejo (Vino de la Tierra de 91 Smoky, toasty and without a doubt barrel fer- abv: 12.5% Price: $25 85 Castilla y León). Dusty, chunky peach and mented. This feels a little raw and tannic for a white apple aromas find a second gear with airing. This feels wine, but it’s also grippy, elevated and fruity. On the pal- Circe 2011 Verdejo (Rueda). Sassy right off round, with mild acidity and flavors that range from ate, things open with a blast of apple and raw oak; the 85 the bat, with feline aromas and juniper. Feels apple and citrus to sweet banana. The finish is mostly finish is long and tastes of butterscotch and dried apple. wet, bouncy and soda-like, with a mix of prickly green- smooth and full flavored, albeit sweet. Well-Oiled Wine A classy wine from some of the oldest vines in Rueda. fruit flavors and sweetness. There’s more of the same Company. —M.S. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. on the finish; it’s briny and melony sweet. Axial Wines abv: 13% Price: $14 abv: 13.5% Price: $29 USA. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $20 Pardas 2010 Rupestris (Penedès). A bit Esperanza 2011 Verdejo (Rueda). With a 85 oily on the bouquet, this has slightly acrid notes 88 nose of citrus and mineral and a fresh palate, Moonday Night Harvest 2011 Verde- of burnt hay and matchstick, with notes of apple and this is nothing but pleasing. Flavors of grapefruit, tan- 85 jo (Rueda). Subtle and sweet on the nose, nectarine. It feels full and not edgy, with good acidity gerine, lime and green apple are direct and lively, while it has aromas of honey, peach and melon. Standard and limited flavors of baked apple and peach. A stan- the finish is long and fruity. This is how Verdejo should nettle, gooseberry and slightly-mealy citrus flavors mark dard Penedès wine made from 80% Xarello, with Mal- be. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. the palate. This finishes chunky yet easygoing. Drink vasia and . Vinea Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $14 immediately. Vicente Gandia PLA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $19 abv: 13% Price: $10 Montespina 2011 Verdejo (Rueda). Peach, Campos de Luz 2010 Chardonnay-Viura- 88 melon and natural vanilla aromas are an open Analivia 2011 Verdejo (Rueda). This is 83 Muscat (Cariñena). As it smells blowsy, stalky invitation to this fresh Spanish white. Feels jumpy and 83 mustardy smelling, with salad-like aromas. It and oily, this is probably already past its freshness point. lively like it should, with green fruit, citrus, apple and feels round, plump and a little heavy, with spiced apple It feels chunky and sort of flat, with mealy apple flavors melon flavors. Spunky on the finish, this is textbook and mild citrus flavors. Chunky in feel and briny in taste leading to a honeyed finish that feels fleshy. This is a Verdejo. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. on the finish. Not as good as past vintages. Luneau USA blend of 50% Viura, 40% Chardonnay and 10% Muscat. abv: 13% Price: $NA Inc. —M.S. Vinergia Spanish Wines. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $9 abv: 13% Price: $11 Prado Rey 2011 Vendimia Seleccionada Verdejo (Rueda). This smells fruity, like a 88 Bitácora 2010 Verdejo (Rueda). Tan in col- Bodega Melgarajo 2010 Valdeleña Verde- mix of melon, mango and sweet nectarine. It feels alert or, this has fleshy, almondy aromas. It feels flat jo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). and alive, with fresh flavors of melon, passion fruit and 82 82 and creamy, with soft, lightly oxidized flavors of mealy Aromas of white pepper and nettle are about as fresh as green currant. On the finish, it settles down without apple and walnut oil. This is past its prime. Tri-Vin Im- it gets. The rest is falling off, with bitterness and oxida- forcing things. Drink now. Monsieur Touton Selection ports. —M.S. tion. Acceptable but bland and bitter on the tail end. Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $9 Enotrends LLC. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Campos de Sueños 2011 Verdejo (Rue- OTHER WHITE WINES 87 da). Oily and pinched on the nose, with cactus and nettle aromas. This feels like a cool stream on the Huguet de Can Feixes 2010 Blanc Selec- palate, with green-fruit flavors including lime, kiwi and 87 ció (Penedès). Stalky and grassy smelling, Parxet NV Cuvée 21 Brut (). This is apple. A note of pithy grapefruit controls the finish. Vin- which is par for a Penedès white blend. There str also 90 sweet, easy, powdery and entirely inviting on ergia Spanish Wines. —M.S. apple and lemon-lime notes on the nose. In the mouth, the nose. It feels pure and correct on the palate, with abv: 13% Price: $14 it’s lively and spritzy in feel, with pineapple, lime and apple, white grape, kiwi and lime flavors. The finish is grassy flavors. Zesty, dry and minerally on the finish, long, sweet and totally comfortable. Only 2,500 were Loess 2009 Collection Blanco Verdejo this should pair well with seafood and paella. Classical cases made. CIV/USA. —M.S. (Rueda). This barrel-fermented Verdejo is in- 87 Wines. —M.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $18 teresting, but it’s also a bit low on acidity. It smells like abv: 12% Price: $15 pine and blowsy flowers. Creamy, soft and cuddly on Sumarroca 2007 Brut Nature Gran Reser- the palate, this has flavors of baked apple, wood resin Clos Mont-Blanc 2011 Xipella (Conca de va (Cava). Among bone-dry Cavas, this is one and banana. It finishes round and sweet. Drink now. 90 Barberà). The lime, mineral and flower aro- of the best in Spain. It’s focused pastry and pear aromas Enotrends LLC. —M.S. 86 mas are inviting. On the palate, light, powdery flavors lead directly onto the tangy, citric palate. The flavors of abv: 13.5% Price: $25 of lime, kiwi and green melon take over. It tastes a little orange, grapefruit and mineral are developed and crisp, Prado Rey 2011 Verdejo-Sauvignon green on the finish, like tarragon, but overall it’s fresh, remaining firm on the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. 87 Blanc (Rueda). The melon and pineapple dry and easy to drink. This is a blend of 40% Macabeo —M.S. aromas are pure and carry a waxy edge. It feels simple and 40% Parellada and 20% Sauvignon Blanc. Luxe abv: 11.5% Price: $30 and well comported, with green apple, pear and vanil- Vintages. —M.S. la flavors. This is tasty, smooth, lively and classy; drink abv: 12.5% Price: $15 V&N Cellars NV Reserva Brut (Cava). right away. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Best Buy. 87 Lime, apple and mineral aromas come with a —M.S. Terraprima 2010 Massís del Garraf note of eggy yeast. The mouthfeel is regular and a touch abv: 13% Price: $10 86 (Penedès). Ripe but basic on the nose, this foamy, with semisweet flavors of kiwi, apple and goose- has dusty apple and sweet, minerally notes that are not berry. Mild and feeling good on the finish, it’s basic but Prado Rey 2009 PR 3 Barricas Verdejo sugary. It feels a little blowsy, but there’s ample acidic well worth a go. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —M.S. 87 (Rueda). Heavily barrel influenced on the cut to frame the dry, flavors of melon, green banana and abv: 11.5% Price: $19

WineMag.com | 37 Ferré I Catasús NV Mas Suau Brut Nature immediately while it’s fresh. Monsieur Touton Selection mint. It’s a bit high in acid, which creates a tangy sen- 86 (Cava). A bit heavy and corny, with a strong Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S. sation on the finish. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. influence of tortilla and corn chips on the nose. On the abv: 13.5% Price: $10 abv: 15% Price: $16 palate, it’s crisp, with modest flavors of salt, baked apple and dried papaya. Dry, mellow and ultimately short on Torres 2011 Sangre de Toro de Casta Volver 2010 Tarima Monastrell (Alicante). the finish. M Imports, LLC. —M.S. 85 Rosé (Catalunya). This has berry fruit aro- 87 For full review see page 13. Best Buy. abv: 11.5% Price: $15 mas that don’t fully register as crisp and spunky. It abv: 14.5% Price: $8 feels narrow and tastes tart and tangy, with red plum Ferré I Catasús NV Mas Suau Brut Rosé and cherry pie flavors. Punchy and refreshing. Dreyfus, 85 (Cava). This is a bit wayward and cheesy on the Ashby & Co. —M.S. BIERZO nose, but on the palate it’s good and smooth. It tastes abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Peique 2007 Viñedos Viejos Mencía (Bi- sweet, with a burnt brown-sugar flavor and mild bitter- 92 erzo). This is intense in both color and aromat- ness on the back palate. The finish is sweet and slightly Bogatell 2011 Garnacha Negra-Syrah ics. Potent scents of black fruit, animal hide, graphite maderized. M Imports, LLC. —M.S. 84 Rosé (Terra Alta). Flourescent pink in color, and bold oak are at the fore. It feels pure, lush and well abv: 11.5% Price: $15 like Day-Glo paint. It smells of sweet plum and berry; built, with dark flavors of blackberry, chocolate, toast the palate is crisply acidic, with citrus and tart red-fruit and spice. Coffee and pepper are the prime finishing ROSÉ flavors. The finish is crisp and cleansing but regular. Sa- flavors; drink now through 2015. Steve Miles Selections. vorian Inc.. —M.S. —M.S. El Coto 2011 Rosado (Rioja). For full re- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $30 87 view see page 13. Best Buy. abv: 12.5% Price: $11 Abad Dom Bueno 2008 Mencía (Bierzo). ALICANTE 91 A potent Mencía with concentrated berry aro- Marqués de Cáceres 2011 Rosé (Rioja). mas along with intense oak, rubber and graphite notes. Enrique Mendoza 2006 Santa Rosa For full review see page 13. Best Buy. Full-bodied and sound as a boulder, with balance, tan- 87 Reserva (Alicante). For a mature, high-end abv: 13.5% Price: $9 93 nic grip and rousing flavors of black cherry, blackberry taste of the Levante, this blend of 70% Cabernet with and dark spices. Toasty and black on the finish; top-shelf 15% each of Merlot and Syrah is at the top of the heap. Ochoa 2011 Rosado Garnacha (Navar- Bierzo to drink now through 2015. Frontier Wine Im- It smells exotic and smooth, like sandalwood, baked 87 ra). Strawberry and other red-fruit aromas run ports. —M.S. the bouquet. The palate is tangy and crisp, with dry but berries and brandied plums. On the palate it feels firm abv: 13.8% Price: $26 clean red-fruit flavors. Mildly spiced on the finish, this and secure, with juicy, deep flavors of cassis and slow- has length and purity. A very good quaffer. Frontier cooked black cherry. This is a bullish red to drink now. Paixar 2008 Mencía (Bierzo). Bullish, Wine Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. 90 oaky and ripe, with leathery black-fruit aromas abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 touched up with plenty of smoke, coconut and toast. This feels full, juicy and aggressive, with a quick rush Prado Rey 2011 Rosado Fermentado en Bodegas Gutiérrez de la Vega 2007 Casta of black fruit flavors and even more oak tones of coco- Barrica (). 87 Red berry and 90 Diva Principe de Salinas Monastrell (Ali- nut and bitter chocolate. It finishes like espresso and mild matchstick aromas augment the resiny oak scents cante). This is floral and minerally on the nose, with burnt toast. Drink now through 2016. Grapes of Spain. from being barrel fermentation. It’s juicy, fresh and notes of tobacco and bold berry. Feels structured and —M.S. healthy in the mouth, with a mix of red fruit and stone solid, with dark berry, carob and sweet mocha flavors. abv: 14% Price: $100 fruit flavors and a finish that’s mild, consistent and long. It’s lean, mild and smooth on the finish both in terms of Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S. flavor and feel. A winner among Alicante wines. Classi- Casar de Burbia 2007 Hombros Mencía abv: 14% Price: $14 cal Wines. —M.S. 88 (Bierzo). Blackberry, tobacco and balsamic abv: 14% Price: $26 aromas lean slightly towards vinegar, and there’s a dis- François Lurton 2011 El Albar Rosado tinct tangy quality to the palate. Otherwise, the wine is (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). 86 Enrique Mendoza 2006 Estrecho Monas- very nice, with plum and blackberry flavors. Tobacco Light salmon in color, this has aromas of pineapple, pas- trell (Alicante). Pine and juniper aromas mix notes reappear on the finish along with toasty oak. Will sion fruit and tangerine. It feels tangy and zesty, with 89 with berry and plum scents on a lively but dense and do best with food. Classical Wines. —M.S. pithy, crisp flavors of citrus fruits and red berries. It’s slightly volatile nose. Airing leads to an edgy, full-bodied abv: 13.5% Price: $37 juicy, but not overly flavorful on the finish. Winesellers palate with baked berry, plum and tomato flavors. This Ltd. —M.S. is long, lively and mildly herbal on the finish. A bit wiry Castillo Colina 2007 Premium Mencía abv: 13% Price: $12 and high in acid. Winebow. —M.S. 82 (Bierzo). A touch of vinegar and volatility sits atop the nose, but there’s fruit and weight under the Storks’ Tower 2011 Tempranillo-Shi- abv: 14% Price: $40 surface. It feels tannic and slightly sour, with sharp acid- raz Rosé (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla 86 ity pushing zesty flavors of tomato, red cherry, red plum y León). This is appealing from the beginning, with Enrique Mendoza 2008 La Tremenda and herbs. Tasted twice with inconsistent results; this fresh raspberry, strawberry and mineral aromas. It feels 88 Monastrell (Alicante). Lightly herbal and note reflects both wines that were tried. Axial Wines nice and bright, with flavors of citrus, pink grapefruit slightly leafy smelling, with tobacco, earthy berry and USA. —M.S. and green herb. Finishes with forward acidity and mild chocolate aromas. This feels tight and well built, with abv: 14% Price: $12 flavors of sage and tarragon. HAB North America. Best zesty red-berry, plum, spice and herbal flavors. It finish- Buy. —M.S. es toasty, with sweet mocha accents. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 14% Price: $14 CALATAYUD Prado Rey 2011 Rosado Joven Tempra- Tarima Hill 2009 Monastrell (Alicante). Stylo 2008 Old Vines Garnacha (Calata- 85 nillo (Ribera del Duero). Red in color, with 87 Concentrated aromas of earthy black fruits and 87 yud). With full black-cherry and bacon aro- sweet aromas of sugar beet, Red Delicious apple and cola come with a slight burn. The aggressive, full-force mas, this affordable wine comes across well on the nose. cherry. It feels zesty, with simple flavors of red fruit and palate feels grating and gritty but tastes good and smoky, Thick and full-bodied in the mouth, this has flavors of red apple. The finish is dry and a touch peppery. Drink with cherry and berry fruit topped off with oak and blackberry, creamy oak, chocolate and vanilla. It feels

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 broad and just bright enough on the finish. Hidalgo Im- face, which lead to a long but undistinguished finish. ports, LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. CARIÑENA Hand Picked Selections. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11 Viñedos y Bodegas Pablo 2007 Men- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 89 guante Vidadillo (Cariñena). The aromas Papa Luna 2009 Unfiltered (Calatayud). of wet clay, mild chili peppers, cedar and sweet ber- Dragonia 2009 Old Vine Garnacha (Cari- 86 Earthy and dark, this has a lot of oak, herb and ry mesh nicely. On the palate it is plump and a touch 85 ñena). For full review see page 13. Best Buy. carob aromas. It feels full, tannic and grating, but also greasy, with richness in spades along with plum and abv: 13% Price: $10 creamy due to copious oak. The flavors are beefy and berry flavors. It feels weighty on the finish, with a lico- mildly herbal, with sweetness on the back palate. It’s rice note. A very good wine from the little-know Vida- Gabarda 2009 Crianza Old Vine (Cari- very oaky and bulky, with Garnacha, Shiraz and Monas- dillo grape. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. 85 ñena). Narrow and fiery on the nose, this has trell. Well-Oiled Wine Company. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $24 plum and raspberry aromas. On the palate, it feels abv: 14.5% Price: $20 snappy and crisp, with a mild lactic note alongside Bodegas Virgen del Águila 2004 Señorío flavors of light herb, raspberry, plum and buttery oak. Pagos Familia Langa 2009 Real de Ara- 88 del Águila Gran Reserva (Cariñena). The HeyDay Corporation. —M.S. 85 gon Garnacha (Calatayud). Dark, meaty leathery red-berry aromas are a tad stretched and tight abv: 13% Price: $12 and ripe, the bouqiet has a strong wave of herb and but still good. This feels zesty, snappy and alert in the carob notes. It feels grabby almost to the point of cloy- mouth, with lightly herbal flavors of red plum and tangy Almez 2009 Garnacha (Cariñena). Stalky ing, with heavily oaked flavors of roasted black fruit cherry tomato. The hickory spice imparted from 24 84 and sweet smelling, this has aromas of beets and and milk chocolate. This is oak dominated, but full and months of oak aging shows up on the finish along with rhubarb pie. The palate offers weight, depth and a firm chocolaty. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. licorice. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S. feel, with sweet berry flavors that come with herb and abv: 14% Price: $11 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 mint accents. It’s warm on the finish, with length. Tri- Vin Imports. —M.S. Agustín Cubero 2008 Unus Syrah (Cala- Bodegas Virgen del Águila 2004 Señorío abv: 13.5% Price: $9 81 tayud). A soupy sort of wine with raisiny aro- 88 del Águila Reserva (Cariñena). Earthy, mas. It tastes salty and feels astringent, with tomato, meaty berry aromas are solid and sturdy. It feels fresh Lelia 2010 Garnacha (Cariñena). This is herb and brothy flavors. The mouthfeel is the best part. and lifted by lasting acidity, with flavors of raspber- 84 dark in color, with pushy aromas of wild field, Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.S. ry, strawberry and vanilla that are easy to like. A wine prune and vinegar. Wide, chunky and heavy, it has abv: 13.5% Price: $9 to drink now without too much contemplation, this flavors of black fruit, mint and green herb. It’s full but finishes steady and smooth. Hand Picked Selections. soft on the finish, with pruny accents. Frontier Wine —M.S. Imports. —M.S. CAMPO DE BORJA abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Borsao 2010 Tres Picos Garnacha (Cam- Gabarda 2008 Reserva Old Vine (Cari- po de Borja). Floral, with berry aromas, Viñedos y Bodegas Pablo 2007 Men- 87 ñena). With aromas of milk-chocolate-covered it’s also quite charred and oaky, with mocha. It feels 88 guante Selección Garnacha (Cariñena). 83 cherries and forced oak, this smells overtly sweet and weighty despite displaying prickly acidity, and there’s a Strawberry and herbal aromas find their way to a tight, candied. This feels choppy and juicy, with red fruit fla- resiny feel to the palate as well. The flavors of baking structured palate that’s home to medicinal fruit flavors, vors and buttery oak in the background. It turns sweeter spice, chocolate and blackberry run aside barrel-driven accented by toast and bitter chocolate. Dark and medi- and more buttery on the finish, but doesn’t offer much flavors. This is a big, oaky Garnacha. Fine Estates From um-long on the finish, with freshness, depth and good complexity. HeyDay Corporation. —M.S. Spain. —M.S. complexity. Drink now. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 14.5% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $24 Ignacio Marín 2010 Duque de Medina Pagos del Moncayo 2010 Garnacha Abrazo 2010 Garnacha (Cariñena). An im- Tinto Garnacha (Cariñena). Floral and (Campo de Borja). Rubbery and gaseous 87 pressive wine for $8. This smells savory, like a 83 86 fruity smelling, this also has notes of dry earth and smelling at first, with medicinal black-fruit aromas of mix of smoked meats, roasted berries and leather, and it asphalt. It feels tangy and tomatoey, with saucy flavors blueberry and black plum. It feels syrupy and heavy, feels juicy and racy, with a good texture and honest fla- of red cherry, tomato and herbs. The finish is herbal, with roasted flavors of herb-tinged black fruit and mint. vors of blackberry, savory meat and spice. The finishes with flavors of oregano and rosemary amplified by zingy A full-bodied, forceful wine, with heat and herbal influ- is mild, with mild herbal notes and tobacco. Axial Wines acidity. Marin Wine and Foods Inc. —M.S. ences. Axial Wines USA. —M.S. USA. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $8 Ignacio Marín 2009 Duque de Medina Coto de Hayas 2010 Garnacha-Syrah Bodegas Virgen del Águila 2002 Señorío Crianza Old Vine Garnacha (Cariñena). (Campo de Borja). Gritty, toasty and burnt 86 del Águila Reserva (Cariñena). Smoky 83 83 This is lightly baked and sweet on the nose, with a hint smelling, with stalky aromas of burning hay and rubber. and roasted on the nose, it also has standard red-berry of plastic and raisin as the bouquet opens. It feels fresh It feels solid, with herbal flavors of tomato and basil that aromas lurking in the background. This feels fairly full and a bit sharp, with tangy red-plum and currant fla- are given heft via additional flavors of grilled beef and and healthy, with sweet-oak flavors accenting lightly- vors followed by bland oak. The finish is tart and acidic. leather. This has a medium-long on the finish. Scoperta pickled-tasting red berry. It finishes a bit herbal, with Marin Wine and Foods Inc. —M.S. Importing Co. Inc. —M.S. lasting minty, oaky flavors. Hand Picked Selections. abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $8 —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Solar de Urbezo 2010 Garnacha (Cari- Aletta 2010 Garnacha (Campo de Borja). ñena). Burnt and gritty smelling, with rubbery, Fresh on the nose, with red cherry and apple Bodegas Virgen del Águila 2001 Señorío 81 82 meaty berry aromas that turn candied and herbal with skin aromas. This feels rather sharp and acidic, with fla- 85 del Águila Gran Reserva (Cariñena). airing. This feels hollow, with roasted, stalky flavors and vors of tart cherry pie and red plum. Aviva Vino. —M.S. Hickory smoke and rubber band aromas control the buttery young oak. It’s grabby on the finish. Patagonia abv: 14% Price: $9 nose. It feels stretched and acidic, with zesty plum and raspberry flavors. Oaky vanilla and creamy flavors sur- Wine & Imports, LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $18

WineMag.com | 39 Bodegas Virgen del Águila 2010 Circles DOMINIO DE VALDEPUSA mild earthy, leafy aromas precede a well-constructed 80 Syrah & Garnacha Syrah-Grenache (Cari- palate, with dark plum and standard berry flavors. This ñena). This starts with aromas of cinnamon, hard can- Marques de Griñon 2005 Emeritus (Do- is a mellow wine that’s very good for the price. Fine Es- dy and weedy red fruits. It feels sugary and broken, with 94 minio de Valdepusa). A huge wine that’s tan- tates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. candied strawberry flavors in front of a sweet, confected nic as nails but so aromatic and flavor packed. Toasted abv: 14.5% Price: $9 finish. Patagonia Wine & Imports, LLC. —M.S. oak, mint, cola, maple, marzipan work the potent nose, abv: 13.5% Price: $10 while the saturated palate thumps along with massive Bodegas Luzon 2010 Luzon Verde Mon- black-fruit flavors and coffee, fudge and light herb ac- 87 astrell (Jumilla). The briary, red fruit aromas Ignacio Marín 2008 Duque de Medina cents. This is one of the most powerful wines from are slightly prickly slightly, becoming fuller and deeper 80 Reserva Old Vine Garnacha (Cariñena). Spain or anywhere. Drink or hold. Winebow. Editors’ with time in glass. This feels solid and fairly dense for Murky and stewy smelling, with no vitality and overt Choice. —M.S. the price, with berry, peppery spice and light herb fla- green accents. It’s a bit heavy in feel, with salsa-like abv: 15% Price: $100 vors. Fruity and friendly on the finish. Aviva Vino. Best flavors of tomato, tomatillo, chili pepper and herbs. Buy. —M.S. Marin Wine and Foods Inc. —M.S. Marques de Griñon 2005 Single Vine- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 abv: 13% Price: $14 91 yard Estate Bottled Syrah (Dominio de Valdepusa). Beautiful aromas of forest floor, dusty Bodegas San Isidro 2007 Gémina Mon- berry and smoked meats lead to a huge, tannic but tol- 87 astrell (Jumilla). Citrusy on the nose, with CIGALES erable mouthful of toasty blackberry, cassis, chocolate rooty, restrained, earthy accents. It feels full but a bit dull in the middle, with flavors of minty spice, pepper Traslanzas 2006 Cigales. By far this is the and additional darkness. It’s toasty and really long on the and mature red fruit. Dry and drawing on the finish, best Traslanzas I’ve come across. It is pure, with finish; almost syrupy but not quite. A tannic effort, like 92 with a tomatoey flavor. American Estates Wines, Inc. aromas of cola, mineral, black cherry and the mild- all Griñon wines. Winebow. —M.S. —M.S. est note of raisin. On the palate, it feels concentrated, abv: 15% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 with big tannins pushing sweet, dark flavors of black- berry, fig, chocolate and licorice. Tastes lightly toasted Marques de Griñon 2005 Summa Vari- Las Hermanas 2010 Made with Organic and feels big on the finish. Drink now through 2018. 90 etalis Estate Bottled Syrah+Cabernet Grapes Monastrell (Jumilla). Red plum, Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. Sauvignon+Petit Verdot (Dominio de Valdepu- 86 rubber and leathery aromas lead to a dry, medium-full abv: 14% Price: $28 sa). Woodsy and smooth smelling, with integrated spice and black-fruit aromas. It feels like a padded vise palate, with peppery spice and red fruit flavors. It’s spicy on the finish, with modest depth of flavor and little to no Val de Los Frailes 2004 Pago de las grip, with demanding tannins and blackberry, toast and variety in texture. A good but regular Monastrell. Well- Costanas (Cigales). Sweet and toasty, with coffee flavors that narrow down due to tannic astrin- 90 Oiled Wine Company. —M.S. overt oak, sarsparilla, raisin and coconut aromas. It feels gency. Incredibly flavorful and potent; drink or hold. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 supersaturated, with monster tannins. Flavors of black Winebow. —M.S. coffee, chocolate, spice, pepper and licorice are rich abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Oferente 2009 Monastrell (Jumilla). Very and deep, while the finish is chewy, meaty and long. sweet on the nose, this has aromas of prune, Drink now. Matarromera USA, Inc. —M.S. Marques de Griñon 2007 Caliza Syrah & 85 raisin and nutmeg. It feels surprisingly acidic given the abv: 14.5% Price: $53 88 Petit Verdot (Dominio de Valdepusa). This is toasty and overflowing with wild berry and cassis aro- sweet-leaning aromas, with full tannins and berry and smoky oak flavors. The finish is tasty and long. Frontier Val de Los Frailes 2006 Selección Per- mas. The palate is tight and tannic, with salty berry fruit Wine Imports. —M.S. sonal (Cigales). Roasted and leathery smell- flavors that seem wild and untamed. Stays salty on the 89 abv: 14% Price: $20 ing, with aromas of brick dust, root beer and exotic spic- finish, with herbal notes sneaking in. It smells great, but es. Feels grabby and astringent, with boistrous tannins. it’s rough in terms of feel. Winebow. —M.S. Bodegas la Aldea 2010 La Aldea Monas- It tastes toasty and black, with baked berry flavors and abv: 14.5% Price: $20 trell (Jumilla). Cherry and plum aromas come tons of chocolate and spice. It feels a bit choppy on the 84 with a dusty note, however things turn sharper and finish, with an espresso-like aftertaste. Matarromera Marques de Griñon 2005 Single Vineyard more brambly with airing. It feels citrusy and choppy, USA, Inc. —M.S. 87 Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Do- with sweet-and-sour flavors of raspberry and red plum. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 minio de Valdepusa). Concentrated and sweet, with aromas of raisin and cassis that lead onto an intense, syr- Juicy, but fiery on the finish. Casa Ventura Imports. Best Buy. —M.S. Val de Los Frailes 2005 Vendimia Selec- upy palate, with salty berry, brown sugar and fudge fla- abv: 14% Price: $8 87 cionada (Cigales). This opens softly, with vors. This is deep as a country well, with a ton of flavor. murky aromas of tomato and prune. It feels heavy But truth be told, it’s tannic as can be, with a crush- and dense, with big tannins and mild acidity. The fla- ing mouthfeel that makes food mandatory. Winebow. MONTSANT vors of prune, mocha, fudge and stewed berry are rich —M.S. and weighty. This is dense and ripe, a touch flat. Matar- abv: 15% Price: $40 Cellers Sant Rafel 2005 Solpost (Mont- romera USA, Inc. —M.S. 92 sant). A winner given its quality-to-price quo- abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Marques de Griñon 2005 Single Vineyard tient. This smells earthy, dark and harmonious, with 85 Estate Bottled Petite Verdot (Dominio de black plum and berry aromas leading the charge. It feels Val de Los Frailes 2004 Prestigio (Ci- Valdepusa). Charcoal, cola and menthol aromas sit on racy, juicy and full, with giant raspberry, plum, vanilla, 85 gales). Stretched and woody on the nose, with top of blueberry and mint. The mouth is so tannic and tobacco and licorice flavors. It’s textured on the finish, not much fruit. It feels wide, grabby and tannic, with powerful that it’s tough to swallow. Incredibly ripe, this with bright, lasting flavors. Drink now. Casa Ventura leathery, herbal berry flavors. Grabby on the finish, this has a short finish that’s toasty tasting and not complex in Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. is still quite tannic and a bit tough on the palate. Matar- the least. Winebow. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $23 romera USA, Inc. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $40 abv: 14.5% Price: $27 La Universal 2008 Dido (Montsant). Baked 89 and rubbery up front, with asphalt, roasted pea- JUMILLA nut and black fruit aromas. In the mouth, it’s solid and Wrongo Dongo 2010 Monastrell (Ju- stately, with black plum and raspberry flavors, good bal- 88 milla). Aromas of pointed red plum and ance and a taught, muscular structure. It tastes bright

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 and mildly complex. Drink now through 2014. Do- ernet Sauvignon offers aromas of lead pencil and mossy offset by a whiff of dried cheese and leather. It feels maine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. berry. The lively palate deals coconut, spice, lemon peel snappy, fresh and firm, with toasty, mildly-spicy plum, abv: 14% Price: $30 and wild berry flavors. This is a powerful wine that will berry and toasted flavors. Lengthy, juicy and healthy benefit from airing. European Heritage Wines. —M.S. on the finish. Drink now through 2015. Vinea Imports. La Universal 2007 Venus (Montsant). This abv: 14% Price: $40 —M.S. 89 opens with gritty aromas of mineral, char, mush- abv: 14% Price: $25 room, leather and berry fruits. It feels cutting and juicy, Marco Real 2007 Crianza Tempranillo- but it has the body to handle it. The flavors of berry and 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Navarra). Earthy Ferré I Catasús 2007 CaMerlot (Penedès). cherry are bright and tight, while chocolate and earthy and leathery smelling, this has briary, almost cheesy- 89 Dense and somewhat roasted on the bouquet, notes reside in the background. Toasty, dark and tough berry and oak aromas. This feels full, and it evolves with with tarry, leathery aromas. This feels good but angular, on the finish, drink this Syrah-Cariginan blend now airing. Flavors of herbal black fruit join notes of tobac- with sheering acidity, firm tannins and solid flavors of through 2014. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. co, peppery spice and mint that carry onto the finish. red berry, plum, herb and pepper. It’s lengthy but a little abv: 14% Price: $65 A blend of 60% Tempranillo and 40% Cabernet Sau- hot and grabby on the finish. A blend of 50% Cabernet vignon, with the Cab standing out. Cabernet Corpora- and 50% Merlot. M Imports, LLC. —M.S. La Universal 2009 Dido (Montsant). Gritty tion. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $15 88 aromas of olive, herbs and charred berry give abv: 14.5% Price: $15 this Montsant wine a Chilean-like bouquet. The palate is wide, blunt and tannic, with blackberry and stewed Viña Zorzal 2010 Viñas Viejas Garnacha PRIORAT plum flavors. It mellows out on the finish, with earth 88 (Navarra). Jammy berry aromas come with a notes. It’s solid and sturdy, but feels tough. A blend of dense coating of milk chocolate. But in the mouth, it’s Cellers Unió 2008 Señorio de Convey Garnacha, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Domaine snappy and juicy, with enough body to handle the acids. 90 (Priorat). This is generous and ripe, with spicy Select Wine Estates. —M.S. It tastes fresh, pointed and zesty, with plum and berry black-fruit aromas. It feels full but shows elegance with abv: 14% Price: $30 flavors that finish full and grabby. A very good old-vine its depth and layering. Flavors of blackberry, plum, to- Garnacha for the price. Classical Wines. —M.S. bacco and oak stick out on the palate. It’s long, sturdy, La Universal 2006 Venus (Montsant). abv: 13.5% Price: $14 leathery and somewhat complex on the finish. Drink 88 Tight aromas of cherry and cassis come with or- now through 2016. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. ange peel and licorice scents. It feels edgy and acidic Castillo de Monjardin 2007 Deyo Mer- —M.S. on the palate, but there’s enough body and fruit to ab- 86 lot (Navarra). This is stewy smelling, with abv: 14% Price: $16 sorb the acids. Tastes like schisty licorice, black fruits tomato leaf and raisiny notes. It feels dense and mature, and spice, with a choppy, tannic, medium-long finish. with mild acidity creating jammy raspberry and plum Vall Llach 2008 Embruix (Priorat). This is Drink this Syrah-Carignan blend now. Domaine Select flavors along with a lot of barrel spice. The oak flavor is 90 nicely done given that 2008 was a subpar year Wine Estates. —M.S. dominant on the finish. Winebow. —M.S. throughout Spain. The bouquet deals full berry and abv: 13.5% Price: $65 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 cherry aromas with notes of exotic spices and perfume. It feels thick and creamy but polished, with deep black- Xabec 2008 Red (Montsant). This is big and Bodegas Artazu 2010 Artazuri Garna- berry and cassis flavors. Jammy almost to the point of 86 bacony on the nose, with herbal berry aromas 85 cha (Navarra). This is bulky on the nose, with raisiny, but with such deep fruit it works. Folio Fine and notes of spice and more. It feels lifted and nervy, meaty, rubbery aromas. It feels more snappy and acid- Wine Partners. —M.S. with vital, almost volatile acidity and resiny, oak-led fla- ic on the tongue, with zesty acids pushing tomato, red abv: 15% Price: $25 vors of vanilla and black fruit. This is minty, spicy and plum and herb flavors. Long and steady on the finish, aggressive on the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. with additional tomato-based tang. Folio Fine Wine Scala Dei 2008 Prior (Priorat). Ba- abv: 14% Price: $24 Partners. —M.S. 86 con, rubber and berry fruit aromas com- abv: 14% Price: $12 prise the bouquet. Feels crisp on the palate, NAVARRA with roasted berry flavors and herb and pepper PENEDÈS accents. It feels warm on the finish, with herbal leanings Finca Albret 2007 La Viña de Mi Madre and some roughness. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. 92 Reserva (Navarra). Lush, composed and Pardas 2007 Aspiru (Penedès). Dry, abv: 14.5% Price: $27 fresh on the bouquet, with blackberry and perfect 93 earthy and leathery on the nose, with fine- prune aromas. This is mouthfilling and smooth, with a ly etched aromas of raspberries, plums and other red firm, flush tannic structure and flavors of coconut, -lem berries. This feels fresh and pure, with balance, weight, RIBERA DEL DUERO on rind, herbal black fruit and red berry. It’s long and tannic grip and perfect acidity. It’s bright, forward and Alidis 2005 VS (Ribera del Duero). Oaky supple late, and it’s arguably one of the best Cabernet juicy, with elevated flavors of plums, berries and pep- and superconcentrated, with shoe polish and Sauvignons you’ll find from Spain and Navarra. Euro- pery spices. A blend of 85% Cab Franc and 15% Cab 92 other dark aromas forming a cap on the bouquet. Air- pean Heritage Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. Sauvignon. Vinea Imports. —M.S. ing reveals a rugged, fully oaked and tannic wine, with abv: 14% Price: $50 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 baked berry, baking spice, raisin, syrup and chocolate Finca Albret 2008 Juan de Albret Crianza Torres 2007 Grans Muralles (Penedès). flavors all wrapped up in a chewy, chunky frame. Sweet, 90 (Navarra). Gets rolling with a blitz of dark ber- 92 This five-grape blend is harmonious, with aro- rich and saturated stuff. Drink now or hold through ry, cedar, bramble and graphite aromas. It feels punchy mas of sweet spice, ripe berry, cherry, licorice and min- 2017. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S. for being a dark-style red, with meaty black-fruit flavors. eral. It’s racy, deep and powerful, with dark berry, black abv: 15% Price: $100 On the palate, it turns juicier and more rugged as the plum and oaky, spicy flavors. It’s long, elegant and po- acidity steps up, ultimately finishing thick but catchy, tent on the finish. Drink through 2018. Dreyfus, Ashby Legaris 2005 Reserva (Ribera del Due- with peppery spice. A blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet & Co. —M.S. 90 ro). With aromas of warm earth, cedar, tobacco and Merlot. European Heritage Wines. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $109 and meaty black fruit, this covers the basics of Ribera. It abv: 13.5% Price: $35 feels plump, round and maybe a bit flat, with rich, ripe Pardas 2007 Negre Franc (Penedès). blackberry, prune and spice flavors. It’s harmonious and Finca Albret 2007 Reserva (Navarra). This 91 Punchy and pure on the bouquet, this has full-bodied on the finish. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. 90 reserva blend of Tempranillo, Merlot and Cab- nicely presented blackberry and cassis aromas that are abv: 14.5% Price: $36

WineMag.com | 41 Resalte 2005 Reserva (Ribera del Du- Bodegas Riojanas 2001 Viña Albina Gran herb flavors. It’s tight, chunky and long on the finish, 89 ero). Gritty on the nose, this has baked bean, 90 Reserva (Rioja). Rusty and mature in color, with tannic grab, and more tomato and herb character- mushroom, roasted plum and earth aromas. It feels with earthy, lightly leafy aromas that come with notes of istics. Pernod Ricard. —M.S. blocky and tannic, with some cushion to the palate. maple and brown sugar. This feels elegant and fit, with abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Oaky tasting, with prune, vanilla and buttery notes that classic Rioja flavors of dried red fruit, cocoa and malt. settle on baked fruit and chocolate. It comes on force- The finish is long and tasting lightly baked. Drink now. Viña Valoria 2008 Crianza (Rioja). Sweet ful and heavy and is arguably a little overripe. T.G.I.C. Vintage Wines Inc. —M.S. 84 and heavily oaked, with candied fruit, loads of Importers. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $45 vanilla and milk chocolate-covered raisin aromas. Feels abv: 15% Price: $80 choppy on one hand and lactic on the other, with mostly Viñedos de Paganos 2008 El Puntido oak-based, sweet flavors of maple, vanilla and mocha. Viña Vilano 2005 Terra Incognita (Ribera 90 (Rioja). Coffee, vanilla and dried-cheese Feels O.K. but creamy on the finish, and it tastes can- 89 del Duero). Inviting aromas of tobacco, earth, aromas turn charred and toasty with airing. On the died and artificial throughout. Quintessential Wines. cedar and bacon give weight to racy berry scents. It’s palate, it’s generous but a little rough, with lemony oak, —M.S. stripped and tight as a drum on the palate, with fiery clove, black fruit and resiny flavors. Oak, clacky tan- abv: 13.5% Price: $45 acidity creating tangy raspberry and plum flavors ac- nins and herbal shadings control the finish. Drink from cented by notes of tobacco, wood spice and citrus. This 2013–2017. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S. Viña Hermosa 2004 Reserva (Rioja). Bro- is best enjoyed with food; on its own it’s a bit sharp. Eu- abv: 14.5% Price: $64 83 ken up on the nose, with a nutty, leafy set of ropean Wine Imports. —M.S. over-the-hill aromas. Feels soupy, with hard acids and abv: 14.5% Price: $70 Puelles 2004 Reserva (Rioja). This opens flavors of tomato, herbs and heavy sweetness. It shows a 89 with a classic Rioja nose of leather, dried few good qualities but not enough to rate better. HGC Valdecampaña 2005 Crianza (Ribera cheese, roast berry and spice. It feels chunky and quite Imports. —M.S. 88 del Duero). Roasted and rustic up front, with solid, with roasted fruit, tomato and herbal flavors on abv: 13.5% Price: $23 bricky, oaky berry aromas. This is tight and ripped a deep palate. This is long and a touch warm on the across the palate, with hickory, maple and bacon flavors. finish, but healthy and ready to drink. Frontier Wine It’s zesty in terms of mouthfeel, with adequate chunki- Imports. —M.S. TERRA ALTA ness. The finishing flavors of spice, herb and earth are abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Celler Piñol 2009 Ludovicus (Terra Alta). solid. Vinea Imports. —M.S. Roasted and smelling a touch bricky, this also Puelles 2003 Gran Reserva (Rioja). Hail- 87 abv: 14.5% Price: $19 has full aromas of berry and black plum. Feels grabby ing from the very hot 2003 vintage, this wine 89 but honest, with baked black-fruit flavors, chocolate, Viña Vilano 2005 Reserva (Ribera del is baked and full, with mature yet rich aromas. It feels mocha and coffee. Jammy and deep on the finish, with Duero). Damp earth, subtle berry, plum and thorough and weighty, with sweet berry flavors that are 88 earthy, chocolaty notes. A blend of 60% Garnacha with smoke notes define the nose. It feels typically tannic and at their peak along with a chocolate note. This is warm, 20% each of Syrah and Merlot. Ole Imports. Best Buy. clampy for Ribera del Duero, with leathery, roasted fla- full and under control on the finish. Drink now. Fron- —M.S. vors of blackberry, rubber and herbs. Long, meaty and tier Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $11 dense on the back side, with chewy tannins and sweet abv: 13% Price: $45 lasting flavors. European Wine Imports. —M.S. V&N Cellars 2007 Reserva Selecció Bodegas Franco-Españolas 2005 Rioja abv: 13.5% Price: $29 Vinyes Velles (Terra Alta). Beefy and roast- Bordón Gran Reserva Tempranillo (Rio- 84 88 ed up front, without much lift to the bouquet. The pal- ja). Lightly spiced up front, with cinnamon and nutmeg ate is marked with high acidity but also some texture, aromas adding complex sweetness to cherry and cassis RIOJA while the flavors run toward salty tomato, herb, baked scents. It feels juicy and sincere, with a mix of berry, Ramón Bilbao 2004 Gran Reserva Tem- berry and a hint of brown sugar. It’s crisp and tangy on plum, herb, spice and licorice flavors. This turns toward pranillo (Rioja). Hickory is the lead aroma, the finish. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —M.S. 91 vanilla on the finish. A traditional wine that’s ready now. followed by notes of leather, earthy berry and spice. It abv: 14% Price: $18 Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S. feels juicy, lively and traditional, with a fine body-to-acid abv: 14% Price: $22 ratio. This offers classic Rioja flavors of red fruit, toma- Jordi Miró 2008 Ennak Criança (Terra to, tobacco, dill and vanilla, with a long, consistent fin- Alta). Herbal to the max, with strong bell pep- Finca del Marquesado 2003 Gran Reser- 83 ish. It’s healthy and drinkable now through 2017. W.J. per and pimiento aromas. It feels clacky, with salty, herb- va (Rioja). Mature, earthy and soft on the Deutsch & Sons. —M.S. 88 al flavors of blackberry and dark plum. Warm almost to nose, with roasted, spicy, integrated berry aromas. Full abv: 14% Price: $30 the point of being hot on the finish, with burnt notes as but baked feeling, with maturity and monotone flavors well as acidic zip. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. Telmo Rodríguez 2008 Lanzaga (Rioja). of sweet berries that don’t vary. It remains roasted and abv: 14% Price: $22 warm on the finish. Drink soon. CIV/USA. —M.S. This is deep, lush and earthy on the nose, with 91 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 tobacco, broad spice aromas and fair but generous oak. Jordi Miró 2010 Ennak (Terra Alta). A It feels tight and balanced, with toasty, peppery flavors funky, lean wine that’s all over the place. The Puelles 2008 Crianza (Rioja). This is a bit 82 of cassis and black cherry. It’s long, toasty and choco- nose is fiery, with cardamom and notes of sweet peppers dry and scratchy on the bouquet, with direct laty on the finish, with layered spice accents. Drink now 88 and candied berries. It feels clampy but juicy, with fla- cherry and plum aromas. It feels snappy and a little on through 2016. Vintus LLC. —M.S. vors of cumin, cardamom, sour plum and raspberry. It the acidic side, with oaky creaminess softening things abv: 14% Price: $34 finishes acidic. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. up. It tastes of vanilla, butter, cherry and plum, with va- abv: 13% Price: $15 Bodegas Riojanas 2001 Monte Real Gran nilla on the finish. This comes across both bright and woody. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. Reserva (Rioja). Smoky and earthy smelling, Jordi Miró 2010 Maceració Carbónica 90 abv: 13.8% Price: $25 with aromas of tobacco, subtle spice and dried cher- 81 Garnatxa Negra Garnacha (Terra Alta). ry. This feels tight, with more acidity than body at this This smells of latex and cinnamon. On the palate it’s Campo Viejo 2004 Gran Reserva (Rioja). point in its evolution. Flavors of dried raspberry, plum, light and lean, with dilute flavors of cherry pie and Leathery, earthy aromas don’t seem entirely earth and brown sugar are solid and classic. Drink now 87 unusual Middle Eastern spice. Grating and acidic on fresh, but they are solid and don’t waiver. Full bodied, through 2013. Vintage Wines Inc. —M.S. the finish. The Artisan Collection. —M.S. with coarse tannins and roasted red-berry, tomato and abv: 13% Price: $45 abv: 13% Price: $20

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 TORO with baked berry aromas. The palate is smooth, with Viña Albali 2006 Gran Reserva Tempra- minty, spicy, black fruit flavors. A hint of young oak rises 83 nillo (Valdepeñas). This is cedary and dry Maurodos 2007 San Román (Toro). Bold up on the finish. United Cellars, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S. smelling, with more spice than fruit aromas. It feels 92 as always, with a ton of cedar, graphite, black- abv: 14.5% Price: $10 crisp, tight and acidic, with flavors of raspberry, red berry, vanilla and coconut notes on the nose. This is plum and forced spice coming from the heavy oak. Dry, Bodegas Farina 2005 Dama de Toro Cri- huge, tough and ripe, with massive blackberry, café oaky and spicy on the finish. Luneau USA Inc. —M.S. anza (Toro). Opens with tolerable green to- mocha and vanilla flavors. It finishes hard but with a 84 abv: 13% Price: $15 cascade of sweet fruit, marshmallow, coconut cake, herb bacco and green bean aromas interspersed with black- fruit notes and earth. It feels astringent and supertan- and vanilla. Needs a few more years to settle. Drink af- Marques de Moral 2007 Crianza Tempra- nic, with leathery, herbal berry flavors. Same on the fin- ter 2013. Grapes of Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S. 82 nillo (Valdepeñas). Stemmy, earthy aromas abv: 14.5% Price: $70 ish, which is rough in feel and tastes herbal. Specialty Cellars. —M.S. of cherry and hard spice lead to a rough palate with hard cherry and berry flavors. It blackens up on a pounding Teso La Monja 2009 Almirez (Toro). For abv: 13.5% Price: $17 finish; this is edgy and rough stuff. Kysela Père et Fils. 92 full review see page 7. abv: 14.5% Price: $28 Taurus 2007 Roble (Toro). Soft and stewy —M.S. 83 up front, without a whole lot of vigor. It feels abv: 13% Price: $12 Numanthia-Termes, S.L. 2009 Termes wide and hard, with abrasive tannins and strained fla- 91 (Toro). Dark and opaque, with compact aromas vors of herbal berry and leather. On the finish it’s earthy, Viña Albali 2007 Crianza Tempranillo of rubbery blackberry and controlled oak. Feels flush tannic and warm, with a weedy note along with barrel 82 (Valdepeñas). Mild raspberry and tomato and grabby, with staunch tannins and creamy, toasty fla- spice. Cabernet Corporation. —M.S. aromas precede a grabby-feeling wine with sandpaper vors accenting core blackberry and cassis. This seems abv: 14% Price: $15 tannins and flavors of medicinal plum and tomato. It more barrel-influenced the longer it airs out. A gener- comes across loud but raw and unrefined. Luneau USA ous wine to drink now through 2015. Moët Hennessy UTIEL-REQUENA Inc. —M.S. USA. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: 15% Price: $30 Bodegas Iranzo 2007 Tarantas Crianza 87 Made With Organic Grapes (Utiel-Reque- Bodegas Farina 2006 Gran Dama de Toro na). For full review see page 12. Best Buy. CASTILLA 90 (Toro). This is packed with oaky, masculine aro- abv: 13% Price: $10 mas of black fruit, bacon, moss and leather, but in the Bodega Los Aljibes 2005 Aljibes (Vino de mouth it’s rough as nails, with heavy tannins propping Corolilla 2007 Crianza Viñas Viejas Bob- 88 la Tierra de Castilla). This opens with sweet, up flavors of blackberry, baked plum, herb and smoke. 85 al (Utiel-Requena). Jammy and mildly baked compact aromas of raisin and spice. It feels more perky It finishes earthy and toasty, with thick tannins and on the bouquet, with cinnamon, matchstick and blue- and crisp in the mouth, with a slight acidic cut and fla- ruggedness. Drink now with beef. Specialty Cellars. berry aromas. It’s full and tannic, with a mix of stewed vors of roasted berry, herb and chocolate. The finish is —M.S. fruit, brown sugar, spice and tomato making up the fla- lightly herbal and minty, with peppery spice and plenty abv: 14.5% Price: $45 vor profile. The woody and chunky finish has herb and of length. A classic Bordeaux blend of roughly one-third tomato notes. Opici Wines. —M.S. each of Cabernet, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Casa Rejadorada 2009 Tinto Roble (Toro). abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Ventura Imports. —M.S. Chunky and chocolaty on the nose, with aromas 90 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 of raisins, blackberries and other black fruits. It feels Bodegas Iranzo 2006 Vertus Crian- za Wine Made with Organically Grown easy and round, with balance and toasty flavors of black- 83 Viñas del Cenit 2009 Venta Mazzaron Grapes Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena). Burnt and berries and dark cherries. This finishes with a blend of Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castil- coffee, rubber, mocha and vanilla flavors. An excellent leathery smelling, with aromas of earth, rubber and 88 la). Smoky, dark and robust, with blackberry and black wine; drink now through 2014. Casa Ventura Imports. baked fruit. It feels rough and grabby, with dry spice, coffee on the bouquet. It’s full, textured, resiny and tan- —M.S. cinnamon and roasted berry flavors. The finish is abra- abv: 14.5% Price: $18 sive, with some warmth. Natural Merchants LLC. nic on the palate, with blocky blackberry, leather and —M.S. a pinch of saltiness. Dry, dense and oaky late, this is Cermeño 2009 Tinta de Toro (Toro). From abv: 13% Price: $11 powerful overall. Aviva Vino. —M.S. 89 a good vintage like 2009, this modest Tinta de abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Toro has a lot to offer. It smells slightly rustic but full Vicente Gandia 2007 Hoya de Cadenas of fruit. The palate has a tannic but balanced feel, with 82 Reserva Privada Tempranillo-Cabernet Dominio de Punctum 2010 Lobetia Made Sauvignon (Utiel-Requena). dark, sweet flavors of cassis and blackberry. It’s peppery This smells flat and 87 with Organic Grapes Tempranillo (Vino and lightly herbal on the finish. Beacon Wine Company. stewy, with jammy sweetness and little punch. Con- de la Tierra de Castilla). Peppy, clean black-fruit versely, it’s pointy on the palate, with tart, generic red- —M.S. aromas come with a touch of leather. It feels full and berry flavors and warmth on the finish. A blend of Tem- abv: 14.5% Price: $15 juicy, with a firm texture and bright, lightly toasted fla- pranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon. Vicente Gandia PLA. vors of plum and berry. This is an uncomplicated wine, Cyan 2004 La Calera Tinta de Toro (Toro). —M.S. the perfect quaffer for the price. Terroir Wine Cellars. Sweet on the nose but also a little green, with abv: 12.5% Price: $10 89 Best Buy. —M.S. minty aromas of herb mixed with blueberry. It feels abv: 13.5% Price: $10 typically tannic and tough, with roasted blackberry and VALDEPEÑAS chocolate flavors. The finish is tannic, with spicy, choco- Bodega Los Aljibes 2006 Aljibes Caber- laty flavors that last for quite a while. Drink now. USA Viña Albali 2007 Reserva Tempranillo net Franc (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Wine West. —M.S. 83 (Valdepeñas). Dusty red-fruit aromas come 86 abv: 14% Price: $27 with earthy, leathery tones. It feels tight, drawn and This smells gritty and herbal on first take, with roasted, resiny, with hard spice and oak flavor. There’s not much leafy aromas. The herb and red fruit flavors are a bit Muruve 2009 Joven Tinto (Toro). For a fruit to ponder, and the finish is dried out, with a woody spotty, remaining herbal and mildly green on the fin- 88 60,000-case Toro, this is very good and well rec- note. Luneau USA Inc. —M.S. ish, with snappy acidity. Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S. ommended. It smells full, leathery and slightly cheesy, abv: 13% Price: $13 abv: 14% Price: $28

WineMag.com | 43 Tapeña 2010 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tier- with a firm feel. Drink now through 2014. Winesellers onto the balanced, flowing palate, with flavors of black 85 ra de Castilla). For full review see page 14. Ltd. —M.S. fruit, spice and chocolate. It’s easygoing as a whole, with Best Buy. abv: 15% Price: $25 a smooth fade to the finish. Drink now through 2017. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S. Viñas del Cenit 2009 Aleo Tempranillo abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Tussock Jumper 2010 Tempranillo (Vino 87 (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). Full 83 de la Tierra de Castilla). Quiet up front, with and smoky, with bacon, blackberry and tire rubber on Marques de la Concordia 2007 Durius dull, candied aromas of black cherry and plum. This the nose. This is a bit grating in feel due to full tannins 89 Magister Tempranillo (Arribes del Due- feels bullish and grabby, with clipped, crisp flavors of and acids, with wild berry flavors, bitter oak, black plum ro). The bouquet is dosed with resiny oak and vanil- red plum and cherry pie filling. Fresh, but it comes up and darkness. Lengthy on the finish. Aviva Vino. —M.S. la aromas, but there are herbal notes, leather and red short on flavor on the finish. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $16 fruit scents as well. It feels good but slightly sticky, abv: 13% Price: $10 with flavors of vanilla, coconut, tomato, red plum and herb. This feels good on the finish, with tobacco, Bodegas Navarro López 2010 Rojo YECLA vanilla and oak flavors. Drink now through 2015. MHW, Granrojo Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra 82 Barahonda 2008 Heredad Candela Mon- Ltd. —M.S. de Castilla). Stalky aromas give off the impression astrell (Yecla). A bit scratchy, leathery and abv: 14.5% Price: $45 of corn and funk. It feels ultrasnappy, with medicinal 88 herbal on the bouquet, but there’s also a stony character fruit, forced oak and berry flavors that don’t really click. Vicente Gandia 2010 Organic Tempranil- and raspberry aromas. It feels crisp and a bit sheering, The finish is grating and slightly bitter. Quintessential lo (Spain). Slightly earthy and rubbery smell- with flavors of zesty red fruit, citrus and vanilla filling 86 Wines. —M.S. ing, with a pinch of wet dog fur on the nose. It feels in the gaps. The finish is long and lightly oaky. Ole Im- abv: 13% Price: $9 full and hefty, with sweet blackberry flavors leading to ports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $25 a round, sweet finish. This is solid and easy to like. Vi- Volteo 2009 Tempranillo-Shiraz (Vino de cente Gandia PLA. Best Buy. —M.S. la Tierra de Castilla). 81 This is gritty, burnt and La Purísima 2009 Capa Rota Monastrell- abv: 13.5% Price: $8 stalky smelling. On the palate it’s sour and underdevel- Syrah (Yecla). This has firm, ripe berry aro- oped as a whole. W.J. Deutsch & Sons. —M.S. 86 Bodegas Concavins 2009 Proyecto Cu- mas that are a little roasted and woody. Thehe palate abv: 13.5% Price: $10 4tro (Catalunya). Rather unusual smell- feels fresh, compact and bright, with earthy plum and 85 ing, with exotic spice and blue fruit aromas that aren’t berry flavors that carry a minerally note and a hint of Mano A Mano 2009 Manon Tempranillo cut from the normal cloth. It feels rubbery, with black leather. It’s ightly herbal and toasty on the finish. A (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). This smells plum, cumin and licorice flavors. Dark and fruity on the 80 blend of 70% Monastrell with 30% Syrah. Marquee Se- like compost. It feels hard and clacky, with sharp acid- finish, it has warm notes of spice covering every angle. A lections. Best Buy. —M.S. ity and weedy, minty flavors that finish rough and green. abv: 13.5% Price: $10 blend of Garnacha, Monastrell, Samso and Syrah. Cab- Aviva Vino. —M.S. ernet Corporation. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $8 Castillo del Baròn 2009 Monastrell Mon- abv: 14% Price: $12 astrell (Yecla). The earthy-smelling aromas 85 Bodegas Pirineos 2010 Selección Mesa- of red berry and plum are snappy and rustic. It feels CASTILLA Y LEON che Tinto Garnacha-Monastrell (Somon- fresh, zesty and deep, with bright but basic tasting berry 85 tano). Rugged and roasted on the bouquet, with rub- François Lurton 2008 El Albar Lurton Ex- flavors that transition to chocolate and herb before the bery blackberry and freshly laid tar aromas. It feels big celencia Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de scratchy feeling finish. This is a good wine with moder- 93 and solid, but simple, with raspberry, strawberry and a Castilla y León). An excellent effort given that 2008 ate depth and complexity. Europvin. —M.S. was by no means an excellent vintage. This Tempranillo abv: 13.5% Price: $13 hint of green herb on the palate. The finish is mild tast- is loaded with alluring aromas of sous-bois, marzipan, ing, with a cocoa note. Best Buy. —M.S. cola, moss and black-fruit aromas. The feel is thorough Nabuko 2009 Monastrell-Syrah (Yecla). abv: 13.5% Price: $NA and pure, with blackberry, black licorice, graphite and Roasted and rubbery on the nose, this has herb 84 Albet I Noya 2009 Vinya Laia (Catalunya). chocolate flavors. It’s textured and deep, but not overly and leaf accents. It feels thick, chunky and a bit syrupy, This is rubbery smelling, with distinct whiffs of tannic or hard on the finish. Drink now through 2015. with flavors of herb, mint and roasted blackberry. This 82 leather and grilled meat. Sheer, tangy and acidic, this Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. turns grittier on the finish, with bacon, hickory and rub- has a burnt, gritty flavor that blends with cherry and tart abv: 15% Price: $55 bery flavors. A blend of 50% Monastrell and 50% Syrah. plum. It’s minty and somewhat dilute on the finish. Op- Ole Imports. —M.S. Bodegas Leda 2008 Leda Viñas Viejas abv: 14% Price: $13 ici Wines. —M.S. 92 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla abv: 14% Price: $17 y León). A full, ripe and generous Tempranillo, with rich aromas of prune and blackberry offset by balsamic OTHER RED WINES NORTHEAST ITALY notes and tobacco. It feels lush and smooth, with con- Masies d’Avinyo 2007 Abadal Crianza centrated flavors of roasted berry, coffee, chocolate and Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Pla de Bag- tobacco. Huge and lasting on the finish, has subtle tan- 91 WHITE WINES es). Slightly rusty in color and ready to drink, this love- nins and complexity. Drink now through 2016. Folio ly blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot conveys a Fine Wine Partners. —M.S. lightly roasted bouquet, with cigar box, earth notes and ALTO ADIGE abv: 14.5% Price: $45 tons of berry fruit. It feels rich but lively, with sweet Cantina Terlano 2010 Quarz Sauvignon black-fruit flavors, cocoa, mocha and licorice. This is François Lurton 2008 El Albar Lurton 92 (Alto Adige). This is a lovely, sophisticated toasty and chocolaty on the finish. Drink now. Grapes of Barricas (Vino de la Tierra de Castil- Sauvignon Blanc, with rich aromas of candied fruit, 90 Spain. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. la y León). Impressive for a 2008 Tempranillo. This apricot, honeysuckle and amazing aromatic intensity. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 opens with aromas of balsam wood, spice, blackberry Thick, creamy and enduring on the palate, this beautiful wine shows the structure for long cellar aging. Banville and plum. The feel is grippy and intense, with notes of Rafael Cambra 2007 Dos Cabernet Sau- roasted berry, black olive, leather and a mildly-salty fla- & Jones Wine Merchants. Cellar Selection. —M.L. vignon-Merlot (Valencia). Aromas of kirsch, vor. It finishes meaty, lightly herbal and slightly salinic, 91 abv: 14% Price: $60 licorice, mineral and blackberry are strapping as lead

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2008 Giovanel- Weingut Niklas 2010 Pinot Bianco (Alto alcohol does not go totally unnoticed. Tesori Wines. 92 li Sauvignon Blanc (Alto Adige). This is a 90 Adige). This lovely Pinot Bianco offers a —M.L. gorgeous cool-climate Sauvignon Blanc with incredible smooth, creamy texture backed by long aromas of mel- abv: 14% Price: $NA aromatic intensity. Sophisticated and well crafted, this on, peach and pear. The wine finishes spicy and tangy. the shows tones of white flower, exotic fruit, citrus and Oliver McCrum Wines. —M.L. Tenuta H.Lentsch 2009 Muskatell (Alto jasmine. The mouthfeel is bold, smooth and silky. Om- abv: 13.5% Price: $23 88 Adige). A fragrant, pure expression of Mosca- niwines Distribution. —M.L. to Giallo, this is a slightly-sweet wine to drink as a abv: 14% Price: $NA Abbazia di Novacella 2010 Sylvaner (Alto hot-afternoon apéritif. The bouquet is generous and 88 Adige). Fresh and bright, this has bold aromas bold, with persistent aromas of yellow rose, acacia, Andriano 2010 Andrius Sauvignon Blanc of stone fruit, tangerine, white flower and honeysuckle. honeysuckle and peach. All that sweet intensity is held 91 (Alto Adige). Beautifully fragrant and intense, A drying mineral note at the back adds backbone. Vin- in line by a pretty mineral endnote. New Amsterdam this bright Sauvignon Blanc lends cool-climate aromas tage Epicure. —M.L. Imports. —M.L. of tangerine skin, chopped basil, yellow fruit, citrus, to- abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $22 mato leaf and a touch of exotic fruit. The wine’s texture is creamy and rich. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. Abbazia di Novacella 2010 Praepositus Tenuta Klaus Lentsch 2009 Eichberg —M.L. 88 Sylvaner (Alto Adige). Aromas of honey, 88 Grüner Veltliner (Alto Adige). This bright abv: 14% Price: $47 passion fruit, peach and natural rubber appear on the and lively wine offers aromas of flower, honey, papaya, nose. There’s a soapy, floral element as well but the wine mango and stone fruit. The finish is smooth and silky. Andriano 2010 Movado Gewürztramin- ultimately ends on a dry, crisp note. Vintage Epicure. New Amsterdam Imports. —M.L. 90 er (Alto Adige). This is a pure expression of —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $30 Gewürztraminer that opens with a sweet and floral bou- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 quet of honeysuckle, peach, white rose and jasmine. Abbazia di Novacella 2010 Kerner (Alto The wine closes with a sweet, creamy feeling and a play- Cantina Produttori Bolzano S. Mad- 87 Adige). Lemon soda, powdered candy, peach ful touch of candied fruit. Banville & Jones Wine Mer- 88 dalena/Gries 2010 Dellago Pinot Bian- and white flower characterize the nose of this bright chants. —M.L. co (Alto Adige). This cool-climate expression shows Kerner. There’s a touch of saccharine sweetness on abv: 15% Price: $47 exceptionally-beautiful tones of peach, melon and pear. the close followed by crisp freshness. Vintage Epicure. A tiny percentage of the wine is aged in French bar- —M.L. Cantina Terlano 2010 Lunare Gewürztra- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 rel. This is a fantastic white wine to pair with fish, white miner (Alto Adige). A big, bold expression of 90 meat or vegetables.. Match Wines USA. —M.L. Gewürztraminer that opens with bright aromas of natu- Abbazia di Novacella 2009 Praepositus abv: 14% Price: $22 ral rubber, passion fruit and candied fruit. It shows huge 87 Grüner Veltliner (Alto Adige). This opens with bold aromas of Golden Delicious apple, vanilla, intensity and a touch of silky sweetness on the close. Cantina Produttori Bolzano S. Maddale- yellow rose, pear and white almond. The mouthfeel is Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. na/Gries 2010 Mock Sauvignon (Alto abv: 15% Price: $60 88 oily and dense, with a touch of sweet spice. Vintage Epi- Adige). This opens with bright, tangy aromas of sage, cure. —M.L. rosemary, tomato leaf and exotic fruit. The wine shows Elena Walch 2010 Kastelaz Pinot Bianco abv: 13.5% Price: $28 90 (Alto Adige). This is a well-priced Pinot Bi- an exceptionally-intense herb and menthol element on anco that opens with a clean, bright bouquet of melon, the finish. Match Wines USA. —M.L. Cantina Produttori Bolzano S. Maddale- pear, stone fruit and white flower. It offers impressive abv: 14% Price: $26 87 na/Gries 2010 Pinot Grigio (Alto Adige). smoothness of texture and a bright, food-friendly dispo- Cool-climate northern Italian whites show exceptional Cantina Produttori San Michele Appia- sition. Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L. fragrant or floral qualities. Tones of jasmine and peach no 2010 Sanct Valentin Gewürztramin- abv: 14% Price: $22 88 blossom are evident in this crips, easy-drinking Pinot er (Alto Adige). The thick, oily texture is backed by Grigio. Match Wines USA. —M.L. Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2008 Giovanelli aroflavors of stone fruit, honeysuckle and passion fruit. abv: 13.5% Price: $17 90 Chardonnay (Alto Adige). This cool-climate This is a generous and bold wine. Martin Scott Wines. Chardonnay offers beautiful aromas of white peach, —M.L. Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano honey, apricot and exotic fruit. It’s silky but fresh mouth- abv: 14.5% Price: $38 87 2010 Lahn Sauvignon (Alto Adige). To feel should pair with shellfish or sophisticated Thai dish- preserve the freshness of its aromas, this was aged only es. Very nice. Omniwines Distribution. —M.L. Colterenzio 2011 Altkirch Chardonnay in stainless steel . This bright Sauvignon delivers a spicy, abv: 14% Price: $NA 88 (Alto Adige). Bold and sassy, this has defined fresh finish with lasting tones of white flower, peach and aromas of lemon zest, melon, peach and white almond. wild sage. Martin Scott Wines. —M.L. Kellerei St. Pauls 2008 Passion Riserva There’s a note of spice on the close and the wine should abv: 14% Price: $20 90 Pinot Bianco (Alto Adige). Aged in large oak pair with Thai basil curry in coconut milk. Empire Mer- casks, this gorgeous Pinot Bianco shows lively aromas chants. Editors’ Choice. —M.L. Cantina Valle Isarco 2010 Aristos Kerner of white flower, pear, Golden Delicious apple and stone abv: 13% Price: $15 87 (Alto Adige). This is a rare example of Italian- fruit. It’s a tight, well-compacted wine, with enormous made Kerner that opens with mineral, smoky granite length and elegance on the finish. Tesori Wines. —M.L. Kuenhof 2010 Grüner Veltliner (Alto and loads of soft peach. It delivers a tangy, etched qual- abv: 13.5% Price: $33 88 Adige). White almond, pressed rose, natu- ity overall, with a playful layer of sweetness. Vinity Wine ral rubber, exotic fruit and tangy spice characterize Company. —M.L. Niedermayr Josef 2009 Hof Zu Pramol this Grüner Veltliner. It’s thickly textured, with tangy abv: 14% Price: $28 90 (Alto Adige). A 50-50 blend of Pinot Bianco freshness on the close. Petit Pois. —M.L. and Chardonnay, this offers enormous intensity both in abv: 14% Price: $NA Colterenzio 2011 Pinot Grigio (Alto terms of its aromas and its natural structure. It shows 87 Adige). Great for easy sipping or cocktails on soft, enduring tones of stone fruit, honey and exotic St. Pauls 2010 Egg Leiten Pinot Grigio a hot afternoon, this fragrant Pinot Grigio delivers cut fruit, and there’s a bright touch of acidity on the close 88 (Alto Adige). This is a beautifully fragrant Pi- grass, citrus, wild flower and a fresh, tangy close. Em- that pulls the wine nicely together. Opici Wines. —M.L. not Grigio, with a sharp, tangy, brightly-acidic finish. It’s pire Merchants. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $27 characterized by peach, melon and citrus and the high abv: 13.5% Price: $16

WineMag.com | 45 Colterenzio 2011 Thurner Pinot Bianco slightly oxidized aromas of caramel and butterscotch. Villa Rubini 2010 Friulano (Colli Orien- 87 (Alto Adige). This is a pure expression of Pi- It also delivers delicate flavors of apricot and honey 84 tali del Friuli). This Friulano from northeast not Bianco from one of northern Italy’s most success- that help add momentum to the very silky and creamy Italy offers aromas of caramel, stone fruit and butter- ful wineries. It offers flavors of creamy peach, pear and mouthfeel. The style is bold and determined. Siena Im- scotch, with a thick, slightly oily finish. USA Wine Im- honeydew. The wine finishes with a smooth, silky tex- ports. —M.L. ports. —M.L. ture. Empire Merchants. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $32 abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Livio Felluga 2011 Friulano (Colli Ori- Colterenzio 2010 Altkirch Chardonnay 90 entali del Friuli). The palate’s thickness and COLLIO (Alto Adige). This is an unoaked Chardon- creaminess is very nice. The peach and melon notes are 87 Eugenio Collavini 2010 Broy (Collio). A nay, with a fresh and lively bouquet of white flower, not too aromatic, but they play well in the mouth. MW blend of Friulano, Chardonnay and Sauvignon, stone fruit and lemon zest. The cool-climate Alto Adige Imports. —M.L. 90 this is a rich and sophisticated white wine, with aromas growing conditions help develop the purity and inten- abv: 13% Price: $30 of vanilla, toast, stone fruit, melon and grapefruit. The sity of the grape’s aromas. Empire Merchants. —M.L. wine is structured and rich and should pair with mild abv: 13% Price: $16 Livio Felluga 2010 Friulano (Colli Orien- chicken curry. Mionetto USA. —M.L. tali del Friuli). Friulano shows its best results 90 abv: 13% Price: $50 Colterenzio 2010 Thurner Pinot Bianco in its native home—northeast Italy—where the wine (Alto Adige). expresses creamy richness followed by aromas of white 87 The bouquet of yellow rose, Livio Felluga 2011 Sauvignon (Collio). apricot, pear and cantaloupe is delightful. On the palate peach, pear and honey. Pair it with shellfish or vegetable This is a lovely Sauvignon that opens with huge it’s creamy and rich, and it should pair well with shrimp risotto. MW Imports. —M.L. 90 aromatic intensity and flavors of stone fruit, chopped risotto. Empire Merchants. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $30 basil and citrus. Expressive and bright, it’s true to the abv: 13.5% Price: $16 semi-aromatic variety. Screwcap. MW Imports. —M.L. Meroi 2010 Friulano (Colli Orientali del abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Erste Neue 2010 Barleit Moscato Gial- 90 Friuli). This is a beautiful wine with aromas of lo (Alto Adige). pear, peach and yellow rose. The palate is plush and in- 87 This bright Moscato Giallo Livio Felluga 2010 Pinot Grigio (Col- offers a fragrant bouquet of honey, peach, white flower tense, with a sassy, spicy close. Soilair Selection. —M.L. lio). This is distinguished for its deeply-rich and almond blossom. The wine shows nice thickness in abv: 14% Price: $55 90 mouthfeel and creamy aromas of stone fruit, honeydew the mouth, with a touch of sweetness. T. Edward Wines and crushed almond. There’s a point of crisp acidity Ltd. —M.L. Meroi 2010 Chardonnay (Colli Orientali that’s refreshing. MW Imports. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA del Friuli). From the gravel soils of northeast 89 abv: 13% Price: $30 Italy, this pure expression of Chardonnay offers bright Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2010 Gewürztra- aromas of papaya, banana, exotic fruit and white peach. Livio Felluga 2011 Pinot Grigio (Collio). miner (Alto Adige). Creamy and rich on the There’s a touch of spice and almond on the close. Soilair 87 A highly drinkable wine that’s very well put to- palate, this has flavors of white peach and exotic fruit. Selection. —M.L. 89 gether, this is redolent of citrus, stone fruit and crushed There’s a subtle touch of sweetness on the close. Omni- abv: 13% Price: $55 mineral. MW Imports. —M.L. wines Distribution. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Conte d’Attimis-Maniago 2011 Pinot Gri- 87 gio (Colli Orientali del Friuli). This pretty Kuenhof 2010 Silvaner (Alto Adige). This Pinot Grigio opens with creamy aromas of melon, stone FRIULI GRAVE 87 delivers aromas of sweet honeysuckle and peach fruit and pear. It has a full, generous and persistent per- blossom, with notes of crushed mineral and natural rub- sonality. Siena Imports. —M.L. Emilio Bulfon 2009 Cividìn (Friuli Grave). ber. The thick, sweet bouquet is followed by a lean, dry- abv: 13% Price: $24 88 Emilio Bulfon delivers a portfolio of wines that ing mouthfeel. Petit Pois. —M.L. are intensely aromatic and thickly concentrated, to the abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Conte d’Attimis-Maniago 2011 Sauvi- point of being syrupy and viscous. Off-gold in color, this 87 gnon (Colli Orientali del Friuli). This lovely white blend bares aromas of apricot, Thai peanut sauce Niedermayr Josef 2010 Gewürztraminer Sauvignon is redolent of tangerine skin, wild salvia, pink and toasted almond. Imports Inc. —M.L. 87 (Alto Adige). Stone fruit, fragrant white rose, grapefruit, white almond and stone fruit. The wine is ex- abv: 12.5% Price: $22 natural rubber and tangerine blossom mark the nose of pressive and bold with a tangy, sharp edge to the close. this pretty effort. The wine’s texture is thick and oily, Siena Imports. —M.L. Vigneti Le Monde 2010 Pinot Grigio (Fri- and there’s a touch of sweet spice on the close. Opici abv: 13% Price: $24 87 uli Grave). Pinot Grigio from the Friuli Grave Wines. —M.L. tends to show extra creaminess and structure in the abv: 14% Price: $25 Il Roncal 2010 Ribolla Gialla (Colli Orien- mouth. Here is a stellar example that’s backed by flavors 87 tali del Friuli). Ribolla Gialla typically deliv- of peach, citrus and Golden Delicious apple. Wooden ers unique aromas of caramel, butterscotch and candied Ships. —M.L. COLLI ORIENTALI DEL fruit. This expression delightfully embodies those char- abv: 13% Price: $18 FRIULI acteristics, with extra structure and creaminess on the close. Artisan Wines, Inc. —M.L. Vigneti Le Monde 2010 Sauvignon (Fri- Livio Felluga 2009 Terre Alte (Colli Ori- abv: 13.5% Price: $21 87 uli Grave). This bright white is redolent of to- 93 entali del Friuli). One of Italy’s best white mato leaf, wild salvia and citrus. The brightness of the wines, this is an opulent blend of Friulano, Pinot Bi- Marco Cecchini 2010 Tovè (Colli Orien- bouquet is followed by a satisfyingly creamy mouthfeel. anco and Sauvignon. Honey, stone fruit, light spice and 87 tali del Friuli). A blend of Friulano and Ver- Wooden Ships. —M.L. exotic fruit glide over a thick, creamy mouthfeel. MW duzzo, this delivers aromas of candied fruit, yellow rose, abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Imports. —M.L. butterscotch, spice and apricot. It opens a clear window abv: 13.5% Price: $80 onto the natural characteristics of both grape varieties. Pitars 2011 Braida Santa Cecilia Pinot T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L. 86 Grigio (Friuli Grave). This food-friendly Pi- Conte d’Attimis-Maniago 2007 Ronco abv: 13% Price: $15 not Grigio offers aromas of melon, pear, apricot and 90 Broilo (Colli Orientali del Friuli). This oak- aged blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco opens with

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2011 citrus. On the palate it’s easy and creamy. Great Sunsan Marco Cecchini 2009 Pinot Grigio (Vene- stone fruit and honey. Pair this gorgeous wine with Wine Imports. —M.L. 88 zia Giulia). A silky and sophisticated Pinot shellfish or white meat. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Grigio that shows more substance and elegance than abv: 13% Price: $40 normally found in this variety. Aromas include peach, pear, honey and apricot. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L. Peter Zemmer 2011 Cortinie Bianco (Vi- TRENTINO abv: 13% Price: $15 88 gneti delle Dolomiti). A blend of Chardon- Cavit 2010 Zeveri Müller-Thurgau (Tren- nay, Pinot Grigio, Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon, this Altùris 2011 White (Venezia Giulia). A tino Superiore). aromatic white opens with a deeply-floral bouquet of 88 Bright, luminous and soft, blend of 70% Pinot Grigio and 30% Ribolla this has a bouquet of spring flowers and exotic fruits. It’s 87 rose, honeysuckle, salvia and white peach. Crisp acid- Gialla, this bright white opens with floral notes of jas- ity helps pull it together in the mouth. HB Wine Mer- soft, with a sweet intensity that’s not overdone or heavy. mine and honeysuckle, white pepper and stone fruit. This is made by one of Europe’s most successful wine chants. —M.L. The Ribolla Gialla element adds structure and notes of abv: 13.5% Price: $25 co-operatives. Palm Bay International. —M.L. caramel and pineapple. Altùris USA. Best Buy. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Tolloy 2011 Pinot Grigio (Vigneti delle Dolomiti). Pear, peach blossom and fragrant Fondazione Edmund Mach 2010 Istituto Altùris 2011 Pinot Grigio (Venezia Gi- 87 almond paste open the nose of this lively Pinot Grigio. 88 Agrario San Michele all’Adige Pinot Bian- ulia). For full review see page 13. Best Buy. 86 This is easy, crisp and compact overall. Prestige Wine co (Trentino). White rose, tangerine skin and honey abv: 12.5% Price: $11 open the bouquet of this beautiful cool-climate Pinot Imports Corp. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Bianco. Its structure is firm and creamy enough to pair Marco Cecchini 2010 Pinot Grigio (Vene- with Pacific seafood or grilled shrimp. Vias Imports. 86 zia Giulia). An extremely floral and fragrant —M.L. expression of Pinot Grigio, with notes of white flower, OTHER WHITE WINES abv: 13% Price: $NA jasmine and peach blossom. Touches of bitter almond and tangy spice mark the close. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Jermann 2008 Vintage Tunina (Friuli Fondazione Edmund Mach 2010 Istituto —M.L. 92 Venezia Giulia). This sophisticated blend of 87 Agrario San Michele all’Adige Sauvignon abv: 13% Price: $15 Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istri- (Trentino). From the vineyards of Italy’s most impor- ana and Picolit opens with a deep, off-gold color and tant school of enology, this bright Sauvignon delivers DELLE VENEZIE rich aromas of honey, apricot, candied fruit and a touch clean aromas of passion fruit, citrus, peach and toma- of exotic spice. The mouthfeel is creamy and long-last- to leaf. It’s fresh, with balanced acidity. Vias Imports. Canaletto 2011 Pinot Grigio (Delle Vene- ing. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. —M.L. 85 zie). For full review see page 13. Best Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $76 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $9 Lis Neris 2010 La Vila Friulano (Friuli Inalto 2010 Pinot Grigio (Delle Venezie). 90 Isonzo). This is a delightful white wine that VENEZIA GIULIA 85 Fresh and spicy, this opens with bright aromas opens with compelling aromas of peach, honeydew of stone fruit and citrus. It offers an easy mouthfeel, Jermann 2008 W.... Dreams Chardonnay melon and Golden delicious apple. The mouthfeel is with a refreshing touch of zesty acidity. Atlas Imports. smooth, silky and rich, with a pretty blast of creamy 92 (Venezia Giulia). This is a sophisticated effort —M.L. that opens with lively aromas of butterscotch, candied honey on the close. MHW, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $14 abv: 13.5% Price: $28 fruit, papaya, pineapple, vanilla and ripe apricot. It’s a beautiful wine, with a bold and opulent mouthfeel and Paladin 2011 Pralis (Delle Venezie). An Lis Neris 2010 Picol Sauvignon Blanc a finish that lasts minutes. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. easy blend of Pinot Bianco, Tai and Manzoni 85 (Friuli Isonzo). A successful expression of abv: 13.5% Price: $76 Bianco, this is a fresh, crisp white wine with aromas of 90 Sauvignon Blanc, this has good structure, density and white flower, sambuca and citrus. —M.L. staying power. It delivers stone fruit, citrus, pear, exotic Bressan 2006 Pinot Grigio (Venezia Gi- abv: 11.5% Price: $12 91 ulia). This is a radically different Pinot Grigio fruit flavors, with touches of spice and green herb on the that opens with a golden color and offers aromas of car- Paladin 2011 Pinot Grigio (Delle Vene- crisp close. MHW, Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $28 amel, butterscotch and candied fruit. The mouthfeel is 84 zie). Flavors of stone fruit, citrus and crushed creamy and luscious. It’s released after many years of mineral mark the simple, refreshing mouthfeel. This is a Bosco del Merlo 2011 Pinot Grigio (Vene- cellar aging, and the process to make it is very sophisti- good choice for a hot summer afternoon. —M.L. zia). Modest aromas of cut grass, white flower cated and labor-intensive. VinUS Inc. —M.L. abv: 12% Price: $12 85 and citrus establish this as an easy-drinking white. The abv: 13% Price: $40 Piera Martellozzo 2010 Blu Giovello Pi- finish is marked with a touch of green lime. It should Bressan 2007 Verduzzo (Venezia Giulia). 84 not Grigio (Delle Venezie). Packaged in a pair well with shrimp cocktail or basil pesto. —M.L. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Slightly oxidized aromas of butterscotch, cara- cheerful bright blue bottle, this offers simple aromas 88 of wild flower, cut grass and citrus. It’s a simple, fresh mel and candied fruit mark this elaborate wine. The white, with a bright finish of melon and peach. Tri-Vin mouthfeel is pungent and slightly spicy. VinUS Inc. Imports. —M.L. ROSÉ —M.L. abv: 11.5% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $45 Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2010 Signé 87 Rosé (Vigneti delle Dolomiti). This has a Furlan 2006 Castelcosa Sant’Antonio VIGNETI DELLE bright pink color and unique aromas of wild berry and 88 (Venezia Giulia). This creamy blend of Ri- forest floor, with delicate menthol overtones. A blend of bolla Gialla and Friulano opens with bright aromas of DOLOMITI Pinot Noir, Lagrein, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, butterscotch, honey and caramel. Brushstrokes of apri- Franz Haas 2009 Manna (Vigneti delle it’s mouthfeel is more structured and firm than standard cot and Golden Delicious apple fill in the background. 91 Dolomiti). This is an oak-aged blend of Ries- rosé. Pair this with white meat or salted cod. Omniwines Imports Inc. —M.L. ling, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Traminer that Distribution. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $35 opens with a deep, soft bouquet of vanilla, exotic fruit, abv: 14% Price: $16

WineMag.com | 47 Muri-Gries 2010 Lagrein Kretzer Rosé wine. The mouthfeel is silky and clean, and there’s a aged effort should pair well with lasagna or grilled sau- 87 (Alto Adige). The bouquet is marked by a bright note of acidity on the finish. Dalla Terra Winery sage and polenta. Vintage Epicure. —M.L. steady stream of bright raspberry, rose, wild berry and Direct. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 bitter almond. It’s sassy crispness on the finish should abv: 13% Price: $50 pair well with cheese or mayonnaise-based appetizers. Alois Lageder 2007 Lindenburg Lagrein Polaner Selections. —M.L. Niedermayr Josef 2008 Riserva Pinot 89 (Alto Adige). Aged in French oak, this offers abv: 13% Price: $18 91 Nero (Alto Adige). Here’s a beautiful and rich flavors of black fruit and plum followed by a me- well-executed Riserva Pinot Nero that shows balance, dium, bright finish. Pair this wine with pork or grilled Josef Weger 2010 Lagrein Rosato Rosé complexity and a wide array of wild berry, cola, spice lamb chops. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. 86 (Alto Adige). Pressed from Lagrein grapes and toasted-almond aromas. There’s also a refreshing abv: 13% Price: $40 native to northern Italy, this bright rosé offers an easy, touch of chopped mint and basil on the crisp finish. Op- crisp finish with tones of wild berries, peach and pink ici Wines. —M.L. Franz Haas 2009 Pinot Nero (Alto Adige). grapefruit. Magellan Wine Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $57 89 Elegant, spicy and fresh, this shows tones of abv: 13% Price: $19 wild berry, forest floor, chopped herb and mint. The Tenuta Klaus Lentsch 2008 Bachgart mouthfeel is silky, clean and easy. Winebow. —M.L. Cielo e Terra NV Deor Raboso Rosé Spa- 91 Riserva Pinot Nero (Alto Adige). This is abv: 13.5% Price: $50 84 go (Delle Venezie). This pale-pink sparkler, gorgeous, offering intense and complex aromas of wild with large, chunky bubbles, offers aromas of mature berry, violet, candied fruit, almond paste and garden Manincor 2009 Mason Pinot Nero (Alto berry, violet and rose. It’s an easy wine that should be a herb. The mouthfeel is silky, long and penetrating. New 89 Adige). This delivers a delicate bouquet of wild good apéritif. —M.L. Amsterdam Imports. —M.L. berry, white cherry, peppercorn, dried mint and forest abv: 10.5% Price: $13 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 floor. The aromatic intensity of this ruby-colored wine is intense and pure. Angels’ Share Wine Imports, LLC. Tiefenbrunner 2008 Lintictarus Riserva —M.L. NORTHEAST ITALY 91 Pinot Nero (Alto Adige). Bright and beauti- abv: 13% Price: $38 ful, this caresses the palate with its smooth and silky tex- RED WINES ture. The wine’s aromas include wild berry, violet, wet Abbazia di Novacella 2010 Pinot Nero earth, cola and toasted nut. It finishes structured, crisp 88 (Alto Adige). Elegant, fine and silky, this de- and refreshing. Winebow. —M.L. livers notes of wild berry, cherry cola and dried herb. ALTO ADIGE abv: 14% Price: $35 The wine’s texture is smooth and long. Vintage Epicure. Colterenzio 2007 Lafòa Cabernet Sau- —M.L. 94 vignon (Alto Adige). This is an elegant and Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano abv: 13% Price: $20 streamlined Cabernet Sauvignon, with dark chocolate, 90 2008 Riserva Lagrein (Alto Adige). Not rosemary, black fruit and spice. It has a thick structure, well known in foreign markets, Lagrein is a traditional Colterenzio 2010 Pinot Nero (Alto Adige). with lovely intensity and length. Cellar Selection. grape found in the far north of Italy. This Riserva is a 88 This is a beautiful wine at an very attrac- —M.L. expression, with impressive intensity and bright aromas tive price. It’s redolent of blueberry, dried mint, cola, abv: 14% Price: $92 of blackberry, cola and plum. The mouthfeel is soft, vel- almond and forest berry. Empire Merchants. Editors’ vety and long. Martin Scott Wines. —M.L. Choice. —M.L. Alois Lageder 2008 MMVIII Merlot (Alto abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $18 93 Adige). This cool-climate Merlot opens with aromas of bright cherry, chocolate and a shading of Josef Weger 2007 Maso delle Rose Pinot Franz Haas 2009 Lagrein (Alto Adige). toasted espresso. It’s opulent and complex, with length 90 Nero (Alto Adige). A bright and elegant red 88 Ripe fruit, blackberry, cherry liqueur and cinna- and intensity—but it’s never over the top. Dalla Terra wine with a crisp, silky mouthfeel. The bouquet is redo- mon characterize this hearty red. It finishes with notes Winery Direct. Cellar Selection. —M.L. lent of wild berriey, white almond, chopped mint and of tobacco, plum and exotic spice. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $48 spice. This should pair with honey roasted ham or wild abv: 13.5% Price: $36 turkey. Magellan Wine Imports. —M.L. Alois Lageder 2006 Cor Römigberg Cab- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Josef Weger 2009 Lagrein (Alto Adige). 92 ernet Sauvignon (Alto Adige). A pure ex- 88 This bold red has an inky, dark appearance, pression of Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a lush and beau- Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2009 Saltner Pi- with ripe aromas of moist earth, tobacco, blackberry, tiful wine, with thick layers of red fruit, chocolate, spice 90 not Nero (Alto Adige). This is a pure expres- peppercorn and bitter almond. The finish is plush and and tobacco. The mouthfeel is firm, streamlined and sion of Pinot Nero from arguably one of the best coop- smooth. Magellan Wine Imports. —M.L. very nicely held together. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. erative wineries in northern Italy. It is silky and smooth, abv: 13% Price: $21 —M.L. with flavors of wild berry, cola, chopped mint and blue abv: 13.5% Price: $50 flower. The finish is fresh and bright. Omniwines Dis- Nals Margreid 2009 Pinot Nero (Alto tribution. —M.L. 88 Adige). Pretty flavors of forest berry, cola and Alois Lageder 2008 Krafuss Pinot Noir abv: 14% Price: $24 almond lead into a silky, menthol finish. Pair this with 91 (Alto Adige). This is a pure expression of wild turkey or delicate ravioli stuffed with minced veal. Pinot Noir from one of Italy’s first organic and biody- Niedermayr Josef 2008 Gries Riserva La- Massanois Imports. —M.L. namic wine producers located in the far, mountainous 90 grein (Alto Adige). This is delicate and sub- abv: 13% Price: $23 north of the country. Aged in oak barrique, the wine dued, without any of the rawness this variety sometimes is elegant, fine and silky, with beautiful aromas of wild provides. Flavors of cola, blackberry and spice mark the Nals Margreid 2009 Aus Gries Lagrein berry, almond, cola and herb. Dalla Terra Winery Di- palate; the finish is soft and rich. Opici Wines. —M.L. 88 (Alto Adige). This delivers a playful touch of rect. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $57 sweetness in the mouth, with bold aromas of blackber- abv: 13% Price: $50 ry, plum, spice and leather. It shows harmony, with a Abbazia di Novacella 2008 Praepositus velvety mouthfeel. Massanois Imports. —M.L. Alois Lageder 2006 Krafuss Pinot Nero 89 Riserva Lagrein (Alto Adige). The wine has abv: 13.5% Price: $23 91 (Alto Adige). Pretty aromatic layers of mint, a dark, inky appearance, with bold nuances of black- cola, almond paste, blueberry and currant mark this berry, plum and black cherry on the bouquet. This oak- Peter Zemmer 2008 Pinot Nero (Alto 88 Adige). Dark and earthy, this has flavors of wild

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 berry, savory spice, toasted almond, rose petal and mint. Cavit 2009 Alta Luna Phases (Vigneti del- white flower. This is fresh and tangy on the palate. Emp- The finish is smooth and silky. Vin Divino. —M.L. 88 le Dolomiti). For full review see page 12. Best son (USA) Ltd. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $19 Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $13 St. Pauls 2009 Gries Lagrein (Alto Adige). Pala 2011 I Fiori ( di Sarde- 87 This opens with dark, inky concentration and Mezzacorona 2010 Pinot Noir (Vigneti 87 gna). This is crisp and refreshing, with pretty savory aromas of leather, spice, tobacco and black fruit. 85 delle Dolomiti). For full review see page 13. endnotes of lime, wild flower and honeydew melon. It’s An interesting touch of bitterness appears on the finish. Best Buy. an easy-drinking Vermentino that should pair well with Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $9 sushi rolls or tuna tartare. Banville & Jones Wine Mer- abv: 13% Price: $16 chants. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 St. Pauls 2009 Luziafeld Pinot Nero (Alto OTHER RED WINES Adige). Concentrated and silky, this has bright Pala 2010 Stellato (Vermentino di Sarde- 87 Cavit 2010 Bottega Vinaia (Teroldego Ro- flavors of wild berry, bitter almond and balsam cola. The gna). This refreshing wine is redolent of stone taliano). Teroldego is a fantastic red grape lo- 87 medium mouthfeel is backed by a fresh, menthol finish. 88 fruit, citrus and tangerine skin. It’s an easy, food-friendly cated in select areas of northern Italy. This expression Supreme Wines & Spirits. —M.L. effort. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. opens with aromas of hearty blackberry, savory spice, abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 14% Price: $30 leather, prune and tobacco. It finishes bright, bold and spicy. Palm Bay International. —M.L. Josef Weger 2008 Pinot Nero (Alto Argiolas 2011 Costamolino (Vermen- abv: 13% Price: $18 86 Adige). There is a touch of sour berry on the 86 tino di Sardegna). Delicate tones of stone bouquet, with white almond and menthol notes. The fruit, lime, talc power and honeydew melon mark the Jacùss 2007 Tazzelenghe (Colli Orientali mouthfeel is subdued and silky. Magellan Wine Im- bouquet. It’s crisp on the palate, with a touch of wild del Friuli). Tazzelenghe is a fascinating red va- ports. —M.L. 88 salvia on the finish. Winebow. —M.L. rietal from northeast Italy that almost faced extinction abv: 13% Price: $21 abv: 14% Price: $16 before it was rediscovered just a few years ago. It offers density and richness that is enhanced by red cherry and Kellerei Kaltern Caldaro 2010 Pfarrhof Pala 2010 I Fiori (Vermentino di Sarde- blackberry spice. Imports. —M.L. Schiava (Alto Adige). This is crisp, clean and gna). Bright aromas of lemon zest and cut grass 86 abv: 13% Price: $24 86 fresh in the mouth, with bitter berry and almond aro- give this wine a crisp feel. This should pair well with mas. Pair it with soft cheese. Omniwines Distribution. basil and tomato buschetta or summer pasta dishes with Mezzacorona 2008 Riserva (Teroldego Best Buy. —M.L. tangy pesto sauce. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. Rotaliano). For full review see page 11. abv: 13% Price: $10 88 —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $NA Dorigati 2006 Grener Cabernet (Trenti- VIGNETI DELLE Sella & Mosca 2010 La Cala (Vermentino no). This shows a distinctive green element of 87 di Sardegna). This is an easy and bright white DOLOMITI bell pepper and wild sage, with opulent notes of black- 86 wine with crisp acidity. Clean notes of citrus, melon and berry and cherry. The finish adds tones of bitter almond Tenuta San Leonardo 2005 San Leonar- fresh-cut sage mark the finish. Pair this with barbecued and menthol freshness. —M.L. do (Vigneti delle Dolomiti). Cabernet Sau- shrimp or fried calamari rings. Palm Bay International. 92 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA vignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot are combined to —M.L. produce a beautiful red wine of intensity, persistency Maso Poli 2008 Pinot Nero (Trentino). abv: 12.5% Price: $14 and integrity. Bright blackberry and cherry aromas are There’s a savory, earthy element to this oak-aged backed by crushed pepper and green mountain herbs. 86 wine, with bright tones of wild berry, cola, balsam and Vias Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L. OTHER WHITE WINES rosemary oil. Vias Imports. —M.L. abv: 13.5% Price: $61 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 Donnafugata 2008 Chiarandà Tenuta San Leonardo 2004 San Leonardo 90 White Blend (Contessa Entellina). A Cavit 2010 Collection Cabernet Sauvi- (Vigneti delle Dolomiti). This Bordeaux-style beautiful oak-aged blend of Ansonica and Chardonnay, 92 gnon (Trentino). For full review see page 13. blend shows bright cherry notes, with hints of rosemary, 85 this is a great white wine from Sicily, with fragrant tones Best Buy. blackberry, espresso bean and exotic spice. The struc- of almond blossom, apricot, hazelnut and vanilla. The abv: 12.5% Price: $10 ture is firm, tight and shows the complexity found in mouthfeel is smooth, long and silky. Folio Fine Wine excellent cool-climate wines. Vias Imports. Cellar Se- Partners. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $40 lection. —M.L. SOUTHERN ITALY abv: 13.5% Price: $61 Capichera 2010 Vigna ’Ngena Vermenti- Marchese Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga 2007 VERMENTINO DI 87 no (Vermentino di Gallura). Here’s a vine- 90 Terre di San Leonardo (Vigneti delle Do- SARDEGNA yard-designate Vermentino that shows a bright bouquet lomiti). This is a delicate and refined Bordeaux-style of yellow flower, melon, stone fruit and citrus. There’s blend, with aromas of white cherry, wild berry, rose- Argiolas 2011 Is Argiolas (Vermentino di a ripe, full quality to this fresh white. Un Pò Pazzo. mary crushed stone and licorice. The finish is crisp and 88 Sardegna). This delivers fresh flavors of cut —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $33 bright. Vias Imports. —M.L. grass, lime, stone fruit and honeydew, backed by tangy abv: 13.5% Price: $NA acidity. It should pair well with fried calamari, sardines or baked fresh-water fish. Winebow. —M.L. Pala 2010 I Fiori Nuragus (Nuragus di Alois Lageder 2009 Beta Delta (Vigneti abv: 14.5% Price: $23 86 Cagliari). I Fiori is a simple and fragrant white 88 delle Dolomiti). Aged only in stainless steel wine that reflects the aromas of coastal Italy and it’s to preserve its fresh berry nuances, this Lagrein-Merlot Cantina Santadi 2011 Villa Solais (Ver- beautiful sea breezes. Wild sage, citrus and sea salt all blend delivers raspberry, blackberry and a touch of dark 87 mentino di Sardegna). A bright and crisp converge on the bright bouquet. Banville & Jones Wine chestnut honey. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —M.L. wine, with overtones of lime, cut grass, dried hay and Merchants. —M.L. 12.5% $NA abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: Price:

WineMag.com | 49 Feudi del Pisciotto 2009 Carolina Maren- ISOLA DEI NURAGHI OTHER RED WINES 85 ga Grillo (Sicilia). This Sicilian Grillo has bright aromas of candied fruit, lemon zest and caramel. Agricola Punica 2008 Barrua (Isola dei Girolamo Russo 2009 Feudo Nerello The mouthfeel is syrupy and oily. Vias Imports. —M.L. 92 Nuraghi). This is a sophisticated blend of Cari- 93 Mascalese (Etna). A blend based on Nerello abv: 13% Price: $NA gnano, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and it’s always Mascalese, with a tiny percentage of Nerello Cappuc- delightful. This vintage shows intense, soft notes of cio, this boasts a bold, compelling bouquet of wild berry, dried sage and rosemary. Kobrand. —M.L. leather, tobacco and a light shading of crushed spice. CANNONAU DI abv: 15% Price: $60 The mouthfeel is characterized by elegance, power and SARDEGNA determination. Panebianco. —M.L. Pala 2006 S’arai (Isola dei Nuraghi). The abv: 14% Price: $55 Tenuta Soletta 2007 Keramos Riserva 91 rich aromas of blackberry, rosemary oil, dried 90 (Cannonau di Sardegna). There’s a glimpse sage, exotic spice and chocolate are impressive and Girolamo Russo 2009 San Lorenzo Ner- of dried herb and rosemary behind more intense aro- complex. The mouthfeel is soft, enduring, velvety and 93 ello Mascalese (Etna). Delicate and sophis- mas of black fruit, cherry and leather. This rich wine is long-lasting. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. ticated, this has notes of wild berry, rosemary, crushed concentrated and persistent, and it should pair well with abv: 14% Price: $NA stone, tobacco and spice that are delivered with slow, stewed meat dishes. Tricana Imports. —M.L. beautiful intensity. The wine shows freshness, structure abv: 14.5% Price: $42 Argiolas 2007 Korem (Isola dei Nuraghi). and staying power. Panebianco. —M.L. 90 This is a dark and sophisticated red, with an in- abv: 14% Price: $55 Santa Maria La Palma 2006 Riserva (Can- teresting aromatic profile that includes dried rosemary, 87 nonau di Sardegna). Garnet-ruby in color, sage, cola, blackberry, leather and spice. It’s thick and Ceuso 2008 Rosso (Sicilia). For full review this has fresh aromas of white cherry, plum, dried dill powerful on the close and should pair well with red 90 see page 9. and rosemary. The mouthfeel is simple and clean, with meat. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 fresh acidity on the close. Frederick Wildman & Sons, abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Ltd. —M.L. Sella & Mosca 2006 Tanca Farrá Caber- abv: 13% Price: $15 Argiolas 2005 Turriga (Isola dei Nuraghi). 88 net Sauvignon (Alghero). This shows aro- 90 This hearty blend boasts a dark, inky color, with mas of cola, dried garden herb, rosemary oil and violet. Sella & Mosca 2007 Riserva (Cannonau bright aromas of black fruit, cola, dried rosemary, black The palate has a bright, tonic quality. Palm Bay Inter- 87 di Sardegna). This opens with bright aromas olive and spice. The finish is thick, concentrated and national. —M.L. of wild berry, white cherry, spice, cola and dried me- long lasting. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 13% Price: $NA dicinal herb. It’s a streamlined, elegant wine, with fresh abv: 14.5% Price: $80 acidity and a bitter almond finish. Palm Bay Interna- Tenuta Rapitalà 2009 Alto Nero d’Avola tional. —M.L. Pala 2007 S’arai (Isola dei Nuraghi). This 88 (Sicilia). The palate has a touch of green rose- abv: 14% Price: $NA 90 blend of Cannonau, Carignano and Bovale mary and wild berry, with a hint of toasted almond on opens with bright, intense fruit, with notes of blackber- the finish. It is named after the high-altitude vineyard Tenute Soletta 2008 Corona Majore (Can- ry, crème de cassis and pomegranate juice. The mouth- (located 1,300–1,700 feet above sea level) from which 86 nonau di Sardegna). This offers a raw, sharp feel is firm and structured. Banville & Jones Wine Mer- the Nero d’Avola grapes were sourced. Frederick Wild- note of garden herb and white cherry. The natural acid- chants. —M.L. man & Sons, Ltd. —M.L. ity and crispness suggests it should pair well with cheese abv: 14% Price: $46 abv: 14% Price: $21 ravioli in a sage butter sauce. Tricana Imports. —M.L. abv: 14% Price: $33 Pala 2008 Essentija Bovale (Isola dei 88 Nuraghi). Bovale is a little-known indigenous DESSERT WINES grape from Sardinia. This opens with savory aromas of Cantine Florio 2008 Passito di Pantelle- CARIGNANO DEL SULCIS cured meat, chocolate, ripe fruit and prune. The close ria. Ripe fruit, dried apricot, candied fruit and is bold, bitter and bright. Banville & Jones Wine Mer- 91 Cantina Santadi 2007 Rocca Rubia Riser- sweet caramel open the nose of this amber-colored des- chants. —M.L. 90 va (Carignano del Sulcis). This is a very in- sert wine. The wine imparts a thick, chewy mouthfeel, abv: 14% Price: $NA teresting wine that shows a unique bouquet of wild with loads of apricot sweetness and honey-coated al- berry, dried rosemary and black olive aromas. There is mond on the finish. —M.L. Argiolas 2008 Costera Cannonau (Isola elegance and balance here, with a tight, velvety finish. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA/500 ml Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. 87 dei Nuraghi). This pretty Cannonau-based abv: 14% Price: $NA wine opens with ripe aromas of blackberry, tobacco and Cantine Florio 2008 Malvasia delle Li- dried spice. The mouthfeel is smooth, plush and dense. pari. This passito dessert wine from the is- Winebow. —M.L. 90 Sella & Mosca 2005 Terre Rare Riserva land of Lipari delivers a deep amber color, with bright abv: 14% Price: $18 88 (Carignano del Sulcis). Savory and sophis- aromas of resin, caramel, butterscotch, candied fruit, ticated aromas of cured meat, leather, dried fruit and chestnut and honey. The mouthfeel is rich, syrupy and Argiolas 2007 Is Solinas (Isola dei prune are elegant and nicely evolved. There’s a bright very sweet. —M.L. Nuraghi). This opens with raw notes of wild touch of bitter almond on the finish. Palm Bay Interna- 87 abv: 14% Price: $NA/500 ml tional. —M.L. berry and dried herb that lend it an untamed, rustic abv: 13.5% Price: $NA feel. The palate is bright. Winebow. —M.L. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 RHÔNE Cantina Santadi 2008 Grotta Rossa (Cari- 86 gnano del Sulcis). This is an easy-drinking Pala 2009 Silenzi (Isola dei Nuraghi). wine that opens with tight aromas of wild berry, dried 87 Fresh and easy, this shows bright berry aromas, CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE rosemary and green herb. The finish has both sweet and with subtle touches of forest floor and bramble. This Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Domaine Grand sour elements. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L. should pair well with barbecued pork or grilled ham- 95 Veneur Vieilles Vignes (Châteauneuf-du- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA burgers. Banville & Jones Wine Merchants. —M.L. Pape). A prodigious effort, the 2009 Vieilles Vignes abv: 13% Price: $NA from Grand Veneur includes a whopping 40% Mourvè- dre in the blend (there’s also 10% Syrah, with the bal-

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 ance being Grenache), which no doubt accounts for its Domaine Les Hauts de Mercurol 2009 a few bottles away until 2015 and seeing how they turn dark flavor profile. This is a full-bodied, lushly textured, 89 Crozes-Hermitage. Medium bodied and out. Gabriel Meffre America. —J.C. expansive wine, with a finish that seems to go on forever. firmly structured, this doesn’t show the generosity of the abv: 14% Price: $27 Approachable now, it should age well for 10–12 years 2009 vintage as much as some other Nothern Rhônes. at least. Kysela Père et Fils. Cellar Selection. —J.C. Instead, it’s a traditionally built wine with classic notes Andrieux & Fils 2009 Gigondas. This is abv: 15.5% Price: $121 of smoke, herbs and black olives, and even some ash- 88 a very drinkable Gigondas despite being very like notes on the finish. Drink 2013–2018. Serge Doré much in the savory-spicy style. Leather, garrigue, Domaine de la Mordorée 2009 La Reine Selections. —J.C. cinnamon and clove are the dominant notes, softened 92 des Bois (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). As usual abv: 13.5% Price: $30 by silky tannins and modest cherry fruit. Drink now– at this young age, the new oak used for aging this cuvée 2015. Vinum Distribution Inc. —J.C. stands out a bit, giving the plummy fruit aromas a ce- M. Chapoutier 2009 Petite Ruche (Croz- abv: 14.5% Price: $26 dary, menthol-tinged veneer. But on the palate the wine 89 es-Hermitage). An early-maturing Crozes- shines, from its expansive, creamy mouthfeel to the cap- Hermitage, with aromas of violets and hickory smoke Louis Bernard 2009 Gigondas. This attrac- tivating flavors of brandied cherries and powdered cin- alongside charming blueberry and blackberry fruit. 88 tively priced Gigondas is a solid example, boast- namon. Drink now–2020. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. There’s not much tannin in this medium-bodied wine, ing traditional notes of leather and spiced meat. It’s sup- abv: 15% Price: $141 so drink it over the next couple of years for its easy ple and slightly warm, with modest cherry fruit coated charm. Terlato Wines International. —J.C. with a dusting of dry red earth. Clove and metallic notes Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Vieux Terron abv: 13% Price: $27 on the finish suggest early consumption is the prudent 91 (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Full bodied, softly option. Boisset Family Estates. —J.C. tannic and immediately appealing, this offering from Cave de Tain 2009 L’Esprit du Fief (Croz- abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Alain Jaume’s négociant business is attractively priced. 87 es-Hermitage). Ripe black cherry fruit is un- It’s not the biggest or most complex Châteauneuf-du- derlain by hints of game in this medium-bodied Crozes Pape, but the ripe black-cherry and chocolate flavors from one of the world’s biggest producers of Syrah. It’s a CÔTES DU RHÔNE and finely dusty texture are undeniably satisfying. Drink clean, crisp wine with a faintly dusty texture to its finish. Château de Beaucastel 2009 Coudoulet now–2018. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. Drink now–2018. Cognac One, LLC. —J.C. 91 de Beaucastel (Côtes du Rhône). For full abv: 15% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 review see page 8. abv: 14% Price: $36 Andrieux & Fils 2009 Cuvée Jean (Châ- 88 teauneuf-du-Pape). Full bodied yet very sup- GIGONDAS Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Domaine Grand ple, this borders on being fat but does offer attractive Domaine du Grand Montmirail 2009 Cu- Veneur Les Champauvins (Côtes du cranberry and herb aromas and immediate drinkabili- 90 vée Vieilles Vignes (Gigondas). This is a Rhône). This is an exceptional Côtes du Rhône, load- ty. Cranberry, cherry and spice notes mark the palate, 92 top-notch effort—a blend of 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah ed with cherry-raspberry fruit and hints of wild thyme lingering briefly on the finish. Drink now. Vinum Distri- and 5% Mourvèdre. It starts off with intriguing floral and lavender. It’s full bodied and creamy in texture, with bution Inc. —J.C. and herbal notes, then delivers deep black-cherry fla- supple tannins on the lingering finish. Drink now–2016. abv: 15% Price: $39 vors on the palate, tinged with savory nuances of roasted Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. meat and black olive. It’s full bodied and round, richly abv: 15% Price: $25 Domaine de Châteaumar 2009 Secret de but finely textured and very drinkable now yet with the Nos Vignes (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This 88 substance to age up to 10 years or more. Serge Doré Domaine Santa Duc 2009 Les Vieilles Vi- is a round, silky Châteauneuf-du-Pape that’s an appeal- Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. gnes (Côtes du Rhône). Full bodied and ing, early-drinking rendering. Cherry and leather notes 90 abv: 14.5% Price: $40 creamy in texture, this is a big, ripe wine, but it nev- aren’t particularly complex beyond a certain horsiness, er goes over the edge into raisins. Black olives, leather but the wine fills the mouth and the flavors do linger. Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Terrasses de and chocolate finish long, potent and dusty. Drink now– Bourgeois Family Selections. —J.C. Montmirail (Gigondas). A full-bodied yet re- 2016. Robert Kacher Selections. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $37 91 markably fresh Gigondas, with floral aromas and a fruit- —J.C. driven style. Subtle shadings of licorice and chocolate abv: 14% Price: $16 CROZES-HERMITAGE add dark overtones, while the tannins are finely textured on the long finish. Drink now–2018. Kysela Père et Fils. LePlan-Vermeersch 2009 LePlan Clas- Domaine du Colombier 2009 Cuvée Gaby Editors’ Choice. —J.C. 90 sic (Côtes du Rhône). A supple, welcom- 91 (Crozes-Hermitage). Atypically round for a abv: 14.5% Price: $33 ing Côtes du Rhône, this offering from Flemish for- Crozes-Hermitage—a result of the vintage—but im- mer race-car driver Dirk Vermeersch starts off spicy mediately attractive, with ample weight backing up the Domaine du Pradas 2009 Gigondas. Full- and herbal but adds ample cherry fruit on the palate. smoky, bacony notes and plummy fruit. Finishes long 91 bodied and lushly textured, this delicious Gigo- It’s harmonious and easy to drink, without any excessive and richly textured, with hints of oak. Drink now–2020. ndas is a blend of 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 5% extraction or weight. Hand Picked Selections. Editors’ Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Mourvèdre. It’s fragrant with hints of wildflowers and Choice. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $42 black cherries, but adds enough savory hints of black abv: 13.5% Price: $20 olive and coffee to avoid being a simple fruit bomb. A Fayolle Fils & Fille 2009 Clos les Corni- bit warm, but impressive; for early drinking. Serge Doré Vignobles Boudinaud 2009 Côté Jardin 90 rets (Crozes-Hermitage). Élevage in one- Selections. —J.C. 90 (Côtes du Rhône). This medium- to full- third new oak has imparted toast, vanilla and cedar abv: 14.5% Price: $40 bodied blend of 55% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 15% aromas and given the texture of this wine a plush edge, Mourvèdre is round in the mouth without being soft, but the quality of the underlying fruit and the length of Gabriel Meffre 2009 Sainte-Catherine and delivers a complex swirl of cherry, olive and herb the finish are undeniable. The primary blackberry fruit 90 (Gigondas). Gigondas is Meffre’s home turf, flavors. It even picks up a bit of chocolate on the sur- should develop hints of coffee and black olive in short and this cuvée is impressive, boasting ample weight, prisingly long finish. Drink now–2015. Robert Kacher order; drink 2013–2019. Serge Doré Selections. —J.C. rich tannins and massive extraction. It’s dense and dark, Selections. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $42 combining asphalt, coffee, chocolate and licorice with abv: 13.5% Price: $15 black cherry preserves. Ultimately it leaves one wonder- ing if it isn’t trying too hard, but it seems worth putting

WineMag.com | 51 Domaine Charles Thomas 2009 Côtes du the palate, it delivers ripe black-cherry fruit and hints of Louis Bernard 2009 Côtes du Rhône. 89 Rhône. A blend of 50% Grenache, 40% Syr- chocolate and licorice, cushioned by a lush, velvety tex- 86 A straightforward, slightly chunky Côtes du ah and 10% Mourvèdre, this is full bodied and richly ture. Drink it over the next year or two. Cordon Selec- Rhône, with modest cherry fruit tinged with leather, textured, redolent of wild thyme and lavender, black tions. Best Buy. —J.C. chocolate and licorice. It’s medium to full in body, with cherries and a hint of cocoa. Drink this charmer over abv: 14% Price: $13 acids that stick out a bit on the palate, but which should the next couple of years. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy. serve it well when paired with burgers or meatloaf. —J.C. Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Réserve Grand Boisset Family Estates. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $12 87 Veneur (Côtes du Rhône). A simple but at- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 tractive Côtes du Rhône, with impressively pure cher- Domaine de Dionysos 2009 La Devèze ry-berry fruit, medium body and a slightly chunky feel. Oraison 2009 Côtes du Rhône. This blend 89 (Côtes du Rhône). The cherry, leather and Drink it over the next couple of years. Kysela Père et 85 of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Mourvè- chocolate aromas are accompanied by a slightly citrusy Fils. —J.C. dre is plump and charming, filled with cherry fruit and aroma in this blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% abv: 14% Price: $15 just a hint of spice. It’s clean and correct, a fine option Carignan and 5% Cinsault. It’s creamy, warm and in- for everyday drinking. Cellar Door Selections. —J.C. viting on the palate, with black cherry and plum fruit, Château de Ségriès 2010 Côtes du abv: 13.5% Price: $11 before turning chocolaty on the long finish. Drink now. 87 Rhône. A rustic but mouthwatering red, with Serge Doré Selections. Best Buy. —J.C. leather, clove and dark fruit notes delivered via a me- Perrin & Fils 2010 Nature Red Wine abv: 14% Price: $13 dium-bodied, slightly chunky mouthful. With its old 85 (Côtes du Rhône). A blend of Grenache and school style, it has the rough edges to handle stews and Syrah, this is slightly minty upfront, followed by bright Ferraton Pere et Fils 2009 Samorëns braises. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. cherry flavors. It’s on the light side for a Côtes du Rhône, 89 (Côtes du Rhône). It’s only medium bod- abv: 14% Price: $15 but fresh and silky in texture, with just a hint of choco- ied, but this wine displays charming notes of wild herbs laty richness on the finish. Vineyard Brands. —J.C. that make it irresistible. The floral and herbal notes Clos de l’Hermitage 2009 Côtes du abv: 13.5% Price: $14 wrap seamlessly around the core of ripe cherry fruit, 87 Rhône. Full bodied and richly tannic, this which picks up a touch of chocolaty richness on the fin- heavily extracted wine seems almost like too much of Louis Bernard 2009 Domaine Le Garri- ish. Drink now–2014. Baron Francois Ltd. Best Buy. a good thing. Leather and cedar aromas give way to fla- 84 gon (Côtes du Rhône). A bit lean and tan- —J.C. vors of roasted meat, tapenade and asphalt and finish nic, with an herbal tang to the tart cherry and cranberry abv: 14% Price: $14 slightly warm. Maybe some time in the cellar will help fruit. This doesn’t show much of the warmth of the vin- dial this wine down. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. tage but remains a pleasant wine, best served alongside Delas Frères 2009 Saint-Esprit (Côtes du abv: 14.5% Price: $34 fatty foods like burgers. Boisset Family Estates. —J.C. 88 Rhône). Unlike most Côtes du Rhônes, this abv: 12.5% Price: $13 one is based on Syrah, with only a small proportion of Domaine Fond Croze 2009 Cuvée Con- Grenache used in the blend. The result is a slightly less 87 fidence Grenache-Syrah (Côtes du weighty, spicier wine than typical for the appellation, Rhône). Domaine Fond Croze’s entry-level cuvée is a CÔTES DU RHÔNE but one that remains round on the palate, with cher- bit coarsely textured, but otherwise offers ample spice- VILLAGES ries and silky tannins lingering on the finish. Drink it driven flavors and a subtle layer of cherry fruit. Clove over the next few years. Maisons Marques & Domaines and pepper notes linger on the finish. Drink now–2015. Domaine Fond Croze 2009 Cuvée Shyrus USA. Best Buy. —J.C. Serge Doré Selections. —J.C. 91 (Côtes du Rhône Villages). If you haven’t abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $15 puzzled it out from the name, this is a Syrah-based cu- vée. Aged 14 months in second-use oak, it features dark, Domaine de la Mordorée 2010 La Dame Domaine Courtois 2010 La Source (Côtes smoky notes on the nose to balance the bright raspberry 88 Rousse (Côtes du Rhône). Mordorée’s 86 du Rhône). This blend of 80% Grenache and aromas, then turns darker and meatier on the palate, Côtes du Rhône is a classic blend built around 40% 20% Syrah doesn’t have the most effusive red-cherry ending with a hint of coffee. The tannins are supple and Grenache and 30% Syrah, with smaller amounts of the fruit, but instead shows an appealing earthy, savory side. impart a rich texture. Drink now–2017. Serge Doré Se- other permitted varieties. The result combines scents of Pepper, clove and some dusty earth elements impart lections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. leather and roasted meat with cherries and dark over- complexity above its price point. Drink now. Fruit of abv: 14% Price: $24 tones of cocoa and coffee. It’s a nicely balanced, full- the Vines, Inc. —J.C. bodied wine, with just a touch of coarseness to its tex- abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Domaine Fond Croze 2009 Rasteau ture. Drink now-2016. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. 90 G-S-M (Côtes du Rhône Villages). After abv: 14% Price: $19 Domaine de Givaudan 2009 Léa (Côtes 12 months in new oak, this blend of 80% Grenache, 86 du Rhône). This wine is light in body for a 10% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre deftly balances the re- Les Domaines Auriol 2009 cdr (Côtes Côtes du Rhône, elegant and spicy, with silky tannins sulting toast, vanilla and baking spice elements with bri- 88 du Rhône). This isn’t the most complex Côtes and hints of cracked pepper on the finish. Enjoy this ary raspberry and cherry fruit. It’s medium bodied, with du Rhône, but it does offer bold, fruit-driven flavors of blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah over the next supple tannins and a long, fruit-driven finish. Drink cherry and raspberry, medium body and tannins that few years. Massanois Imports. —J.C. now–2016. Serge Doré Selections. —J.C. are creamy soft. Drink this 50-50 blend of Grenache abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 15% Price: $26 and Syrah over the next year or so. Testa Wines Of The World. Best Buy. —J.C. Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Cranilles Domaine de Dionysos 2009 La Cigalette abv: 13.5% Price: $11 86 (Côtes du Rhône). This négociant opera- 89 Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre-Carignan tion has greatly expanded its offerings in recent years, Cairanne (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Made in Famille Perrin 2009 Réserve (Côtes du and this blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 10% a traditional style with no evident new oak, leathery, 88 Rhône). For full review see page 12. Best Buy. Mourvèdre is reasonably successful. Cherry and dried meaty notes balance dusty earth and sour plums on the abv: 13.5% Price: $11 herb notes are framed by dry cedar accents before pick- nose, while the palate is full, round and richly textured. ing up olive and coffee nuances on the finish. Drink now Finishes with dark, savory notes of coffee and black ol- Vignobles La Coterie 2010 Côtes du and over the next two years. Domaine Select Wine Es- ives. Drink now–2017. Serge Doré Selections. —J.C. 88 Rhône. Despite this wine’s evident ripeness, tates. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $17 it remains freshly floral and perfumed on the nose. On abv: 14.5% Price: $15

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 Tardieu-Laurent 2009 Les Becs Fins Ferraton Pere et Fils 2009 Plan de Dieu takes a bit of airing to come around, but once it does 89 (Côtes du Rhône Villages). This blend of 86 (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Plummy and it shows impressive depth of melon fruit accented by 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah is a bit feral, with sweaty confected, with the baked-fruit character and hints crushed stone. It’s medium to full in body, with a slightly leather notes that actually work well with the wine’s of raisined fruit that can sometimes affect wines from oily texture, while the finish has a drying, tactile quality meaty, black olive and dark plum elements. It’s full bod- the Plan de Dieu. Thankfully, the tannins are supple, to it that’s a bit like chalk dust. Frederick Wildman & ied yet supple, with a lingering finish. Drink now–2015. and while there’s some alcoholic warmth, it’s still easy Sons, Ltd. —J.C. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C. to drink. Drink now–2014. Baron Francois Ltd. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $95 abv: 14.5% Price: $NA abv: 14.5% Price: $17 Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Domaine de Domaine Fond Croze 2009 Cuvée Ro- Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Rasteau Le 90 Roure (Crozes-Hermitage). This wine— 88 manaise (Côtes du Rhône Villages). The 86 Cancarot (Côtes du Rhône Villages). This made using fruit from 60-year-old Marsanne vines—is blend in this cuvée is 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah, is dry and cedary upfront, with decent raspberry fruit full bodied but crisp and reined in at the same time. aged in second-use oak. The oak provides hints of bak- emerging on the palate. It’s medium bodied and lacks Hints of toast accent citrus and melon notes that turn ing spices on the nose and some cedary notes on the the richness and expansiveness of many 2009 Rhônes, more lemony and lean on the finish. Could improve palate, nicely accenting the bright black-cherry fruit in but still offers a solid if somewhat oaky drinking experi- with 3–5 years of cellaring. Frederick Wildman & Sons, this medium-bodied wine. Soft tannins combine with ence. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C. Ltd. —J.C. mouthwatering acids on the finish. Drink now–2016. abv: 14% Price: $29 abv: 13% Price: $60 Serge Doré Selections. —J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Kirkland Signature 2009 Côtes du Rhône Cave de Tain 2009 Au Coeur des Siècles 85 Villages. A solid wine at a rock-bottom price, 88 (Hermitage). Full-bodied, broad and a bit oily Domaine Fond Croze 2009 Cuvée Vin- this Côtes du Rhône Villages was put together by the in texture, this concentrated old-vine Marsanne seems a 88 cent de Catari (Côtes du Rhône Villages). well-known négociant Patrick LeSec. The full-bodied, bit evolved, with open aromas of honeyed fruit and truf- Aged predominantly in concrete tanks, this treatment amply textured wine delivers bright and cheery cher- fle backed by citrusy fruit and a hint of anise. Long and allows the fruit to speak loudly and clearly, delivering ry and cinnamon flavors with a hint of chocolate. Only intense on the finish. Drink now. Cognac One, LLC. dark cherry flavors tinged with dried herbs. It’s creamy a slightly sharp, acidic tang kept the score from rising —J.C. in texture, with ample acids on the finish to help balance higher. DC Flynt MW Selections. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $60 the rich tannins. Drink now–2018. Serge Doré Selec- abv: 14.5% Price: $7 tions. —J.C. PROVENCE abv: 14% Price: $17 RASTEAU Gabriel Meffre 2009 Saint-Mapalis Plan Tardieu-Laurent 2009 Vieilles Vignes BANDOL De Dieu (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Plan 88 (Rasteau). The poster child for Tardieu’s de Dieu is an oft-overlooked commune within the 92 Domaines Ott 2011 Château de Romas- winemaking style is this 2009 Côtes du Rhône. It fea- Côtes du Rhône Villages that frequently produces very 92 san Rosé (Bandol). With its Mourvèdre tures masses of luscious oak—toasted coconut, cedar, ripe wines. This one is chocolaty and chunky in style, content, this is a big-hearted wine. It is finely balanced vanilla—with just enough raspberry fruit to support it. with intense notes of black cherries and some extracted, between its rich yellow and red fruits and spice and It’s full bodied and lushly textured, even a bit dessert- bitter notes of coffee and cocoa on the finish. Drink it acidity. This is a great food rosé, textured and ripe. Mai- like despite being totally dry. Probably best consumed over the next few years with heaty stews or braises. Ga- sons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. on its own over the next few years. Wilson Daniels Ltd. briel Meffre America. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $16 abv: 14.5% Price: $31 Domaine de l’Hermitage 2011 L’Oratoire Louis Bernard 2009 Côtes du Rhône Vil- Rosé (Bandol). This is a finely balanced wine, Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Les Valats (Ras- 91 lages. Bulky and rugged but sound, with some showing its crisp acidity and its fruitiness along with a 87 teau). The Jaume family’s négociant business is drying tannins on the finish. It compensates by offer- 89 richer character that lends weight. This is both immedi- thriving because of wines like this that faithfully repre- ing attractive flavors of black cherries, black olives and ately attractive and worth aging for a few months. Ideal sent their while offering solid value. This rasp- hints of asphalt and garrigue. Try it with hearty braises Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V. berry- and garrigue-scented wine features ample weight or stews. Boisset Family Estates. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 framed by supple tannins that firm up on the finish. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Drink now–2018. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. Domaine Sorin 2011 Rosé (Bandol). abv: 15% Price: $27 Perrin & Fils 2009 Côtes du Rhône Vil- 91 With a dominance of Mourvèdre, this is big 87 lages. Like many of the Perrin & Fils wines, and rich. It has weight, with intense fruit flavors and this one is firmly structured, its cherry and cocoa flavors WHITE WINES a dense texture. Structured and concentrated, this is a ending on a dusty, tannic note. But the fruit is attrac- food-friendly rosé. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V. tive, and even boasts some complexity in the wisps of Maison Nicolas Perrin 2009 Hermitage. abv: 13% Price: $19 garrigue on the nose. Probably best from 2013–2017. 93 For full review see page 5. Cellar Selection. Ravoire et Fils 2011 Le Pont Rosé (Ban- Vineyard Brands. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $79 abv: 13% Price: $15 85 dol). A herbal aroma gives a green feel to this Fayolle Fils & Fille 2009 Les Dionnières wine. It is fruity, with apple and red currant flavors and Vignobles La Coterie 2009 Seguret 92 (Hermitage). This seemingly forward Her- notes of thyme and mint. Saranty Imports. —R.V. 87 (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Séguret wines mitage boasts bold notes of lime, pineapple and melon, abv: 13% Price: $NA often have a firmness to their tannins, and this is no ex- wrapped in a soft blanket of toastiness and restrained ception. Attractive notes of red cherries, dusty earth oak. It’s round in the mouth and ample in body, with a and garrigue are framed by starching tannins, which long finish faintly suggestive of coffee. Drink now. Serge CÔTES DE PROVENCE leave the finish spicy and drying. Drink it now with fatty Doré Selections. —J.C. Château d’Esclans 2010 Garrus Rosé red meats, or give it a couple of years in the cellar to abv: NA Price: $70 93 (Côtes de Provence). For full review see mellow. Cordon Selections. —J.C. page 4. abv: 14% Price: $16 Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Le Chevalier de abv: 13.5% Price: $90 91 Sterimberg (Hermitage). This reticent wine

WineMag.com | 53 Château de Pampelonne 2011 Rosé tive acidity in the background. A fine apéritif style of rich style of rosé, with delicious red-berry crispness. 91 (Côtes de Provence). This is an impressive rosé. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —R.V. It is ready for food with its tangy, textured aftertaste. wine that’s full of fruit, structure and acidity. It’s well abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Screwcap. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V. balanced, rich and crisply fresh, with lively acidity on abv: 13% Price: $20 the finish—a real food-friendly rosé. Jeff Wellburn Se- Château Sainte Roseline 2011 La Cha- lections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. 90 pelle de Sainte-Roseline Rosé (Côtes Château l’Afrique 2011 Rosé (Côtes de abv: 13% Price: $19 de Provence). Light and bright, this is so poised and 89 Provence). From one of the Sumeire family crisp. It has a lift of raspberry fruit, lime juice and a estates, this ripe, red-fruited wine is cleanly balanced Château Sainte Marguerite 2011 Cru touch of saltiness. This is a sophisticated food rosé. Vi- with the purest fruit flavors. There is just a touch of lem- 91 Classé Grand Réserve Rosé (Côtes de dalco International, LLC. —R.V. on and exhilarating acidity. Cru Wines. —R.V. Provence). For full review see page 8. abv: 12.5% Price: $60 abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $28 Clos Cibonne 2010 Rosé (Côtes de Château la Moutète 2011 Grande Domaine Saint-André de Figuière 90 Provence). Based on Tibouren, a red grape 89 Réserve Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This 91 2011 Vieilles Vignes Rosé (Côtes de found in Provence, this is a perfumed wine that tastes is a delightful rosé that’s full of lemon and raspberry Provence). From old vines, this is a concentrated of the regions herbs and lavender. Both warm and light, fruit. The lively, crisp acidity should cut through rich wine that’s full of dense red-berry fruits and an intense it has notes of spice, red plum and a delicate aftertaste. fare. Ideal Wine and Spirits Co. Inc. —R.V. caramel and spice character. It has an apple skin tex- Demaison Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 ture, with an herbal aftertaste. AP Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Château Léoube 2011 Secret de Léoube Domaine du Clos d’Alari 2011 Grand 89 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This is a soft, Domaines Ott 2011 Clos Mireille Rosé 90 Clos Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Red plum carmel-flavored wine, with smooth yeast and sweet fruit 91 (Côtes de Provence). This is a delicate, and grapefruit flavors lead the wine down a crisp path. flavors. The richness is balanced with apple skin acid- beautifully-poised wine, so crisp and lively. The ocean- As it develops, it shows some weight and richness, with ity and a crisp, clean aftertaste. Transatlantic Wines & influenced vineyard site helps to keep the wine light. a hint of truffle, spice and caramel. DB Wines. —R.V. Spirits. —R.V. This is what summer rosé is about. Maisons Marques & abv: 13% Price: $21 abv: 13% Price: $32 Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $45 Domaine Gavoty 2011 Cuvée Claren- Château Sainte Roseline 2011 Cuvée 90 don Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This is an 89 Prieure Rosé (Côtes de Provence). From Château Barbanau 2011 L’Instant Rosé attractive, fruity wine, with a touch of well-integrated selected parcels at Sainte-Roseline, this is a concen- 90 (Côtes de Provence). This is a bright, fresh vanilla. The aftertaste is soft, with a hint of pepper. Gar- trated and serious rosé. It has weight and rich straw- raspberry-flavored wine. It’s fruity and layered with at- ber and Co. —R.V. berry fruit, balanced by attractive acidity. The aftertaste tractive, crisp acidity. A touch of spice accents the finish. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA brings in ripe fruit and a touch of spice. Vidalco Inter- PS Wines. —R.V. national, LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Domaine Sorin 2011 Terra Amata Rosé abv: 13% Price: $38 90 (Côtes de Provence). Rounded and rich, Château de Roquefort 2011 Corail Rosé this is full of strawberry flavors. It’s deliciously ripe, with Domaine Saint-André de Figuière 90 (Côtes de Provence). Wonderfully fruity, crispness to go with the serious fruit. This is very much 89 2011 Cuvée Signature Rosé (Côtes de this is a clean, crisp and food-friendly rosé. It poised and a food rosé, concentrated and intense. Grape Expecta- Provence). This is the lighter of the two rosés from elegant, with a ripe fruit character that’s balanced by tions (CA). Best Buy. —R.V. Saint-André de Figuière. It brings out crisp fruit, taut acidity and lime zest flavor. VOS Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $12 lively spice and red berry, with a great streak of clean, abv: 13% Price: $20 mouthwatering acidity. AP Wine Imports. —R.V. Domaines les Fouques 2011 Cuvée de abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Château les Valentines 2011 Rosé (Côtes 90 l’Aubigue Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A 90 de Provence). This is a rich style of rosé, full- really crisp, attractive wine. It has great fruit character Domaines Ott 2011 Château de Selle bodied and packed with ripe strawberry fruit. As a hap- and balanced acidity. The wine is poised and elegant, 89 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A rounded py contrast to this richness, it also has a spice and orange with a delicious fruity finish. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. style, with full-bodied red fruits and a rich, silky texture. zest element that adds both piquancy and final crisp- —R.V. The wine still does have attractive acidity and a crisp ness. Potomac Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA grapefruit edge to balance it out. Maisons Marques & abv: 13.5% Price: $23 Domaines USA. —R.V. Château d’Esclans 2011 Rosé (Côtes de abv: 13.5% Price: $45 Château Rimauresq 2011 Rosé (Côtes 89 Provence). Full, soft and rounded, this shows 90 de Provence). A delicious, crisp and fruity flavors of ripe strawberry and red plum. The texture Château de Brigue 2010 Brigue Pres- wine that’s textured with minerality and a tang of lemon is smooth, with just a tang of minerality. Nutmeg and 88 tige (Côtes de Provence). This is a zest. On the palate a raspberry flavor dominates, with pepper complement the acidity on the finish. Shaw- concentrated wine that’s full of black fruits and layers of acidity and a lively, bright aftertaste. Classic Ross International Importers. —R.V. textured tannins. It has spice, rosemary and a taut char- Wines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 acter. Tru Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Château d’Esclans 2010 Les Clans Rosé Château Saint-Pierre 2011 Tradition 89 (Côtes de Provence). Ripe, smooth and Château de Saint-Martin 2011 Grande 90 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). For full review toasty, this has the feel and texture of Chardonnay. It 88 Réserve Rosé (Côtes de Provence). see page 11. Best Buy. is full and rounded, yet its acidity and red fruit char- Big and rounded, this has layers of caramel and abv: 12.5% Price: $15 acter lend elegance. Shaw-Ross International Import- strawberry flavors. The fruit is ripe and forward, with ers. —R.V. delicious acidity and a soft, honeyed aftertaste. Fine Château Sainte Marguerite 2011 Cuvée abv: 13.5% Price: $70 Terroirs LLC. —R.V. 90 M Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This is fruity, abv: 13% Price: $23 light and crisp, with all elements in balance. An orange Château de Pourcieux 2011 Rosé (Côtes zest note cuts through the raspberry fruit, with attrac- 89 de Provence). Full in the mouth, this is a

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 Château Hermitage Saint-Martin 2011 Château Réal Martin 2011 Perle de Rosé Xavier Flouret 2011 Nationale 7 Rosé 88 Grand Cuvée Enzo Rosé (Côtes de 87 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A caramel- and 87 (Côtes de Provence). Smooth and caramel- Provence). This soft wine has a smooth texture and lemon-flavored wine that’s both fresh and soft. It has an flavored, this has a feeling of weight and richness. Its and a ripe strawberry flavor. It is rounded, easy and attractive perfumed character and a warm and round texture is soft, with a tang of spice and peppered lemon approachable. —R.V. texture. This is made from old vines, which lends it extra zest. The name of the wine refers to the old trunk road abv: 12.5% Price: $NA concentration. Wineberry America LLC. —R.V. that ran from Paris to Provence. Cognac One, LLC. abv: 13% Price: $20 —R.V. Château Léoube 2011 Rosé (Côtes abv: 13% Price: $18 88 de Provence). This is a bright, soft wine, Château Rimauresq 2011 Petit Rimaur- rounded and finely balanced. The delicate apple- 87 esq Rosé (Côtes de Provence). An attrac- Château Barbeyrolles 2011 Rosé (Côtes and pear-skin flavors bring out the acidity and lift the tive red-fruited wine that’s light in flavor and texture. 86 de Provence). A ripe rosé that offers red smooth texture. Transatlantic Wines & Spirits. —R.V. It’s laced with acidity and a touch of vanilla. The finish plums, red apples and a rich layer of caramel. This has abv: 13% Price: $24 is crisp and easy. Screwcap. Classic Wines, Inc. —R.V. weight, which pushes it into the food-friendly category. abv: 13% Price: $15 Plume Ridge Negociants. —R.V. Château les Valentines 2011 La Ca- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 88 price de Clémentine Rosé (Côtes de Château Sainte Roseline 2011 Cu- Provence). Rounded and full, this has lime and red 87 vée Lampe de Méduse Rosé (Côtes de Château de Brigue 2011 Brigue Prestige berry fruits and a smooth caramel character. It is rich, Provence). This is ripe and soft, with its red fruits well 86 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Soft and ripe, soft and very much a food-friendly wine. Evaton, Inc. integrated into the rounded texture. There is a crisp this has attractive red-berry fruits that are layered with —R.V. edge to the wine, with spice, lemon and apple skin fla- acidity and tangerine flavor. It’s delicate, light hearted, abv: 13% Price: $NA vors. Vidalco International, LLC. —R.V. and great as an apéritif. Tru Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $30 abv: 12.5% Price: $17 Château Riotor 2011 Rosé (Côtes de 88 Provence). This is a food-friendly rosé that’s Domaine de la Courtade 2011 L’Alycastre Château de Brigue 2010 Signature full-bodied and rich. It has orange and apricot flavors, 87 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This is a taut 86 (Côtes de Provence). This is herbal, with along with a note of red plum. The acidity keeps the wine that’s full of zest, acidity and delicate wild straw- some flavors of green bell pepper and wild spice. The wine fresh and crisp while the aftertaste has a fine tang berry fruit. It has a hint of orange and almond, with a wine is light bodied and fruity, with attractive, juicy of zest. Screwcap. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. great crisp feeling. Winebow. —R.V. black-currant flavors and a perfumed aftertaste. Tru abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 11.5% Price: $NA Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 Château Thuerry 2011 Le Château Rosé Domaine du Grand Cros 2011 L’Esprit de 88 (Côtes de Provence). Big and rich, this is 87 Provence Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This Château des Demoiselles 2011 Rosé packed with ripe wild-strawberry and red-plum fruits. is a big, spicy wine, with very ripe flavors of red berries. 86 (Côtes de Provence). Delicate and crisp, The wine has attractive acidity, with concentration and It'ss concentrated, with layers of pepper a tight lemon- this is a well-balanced fruity wine with strawberry fla- power. Angels’ Share Wine Imports, LLC. —R.V. zest acidity. The Barterhouse. —R.V. vor. The finish is warm and soft, with a tang of lemon. abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Vidalco International, LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA La Croix du Prieur 2011 Rosé (Côtes de Domaine Sainte Lucie 2011 MIP Made 88 Provence). This is fresh and herbal, with crisp 87 in Provence Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Château Montaud 2011 Rosé (Côtes de flavors of red fruit and citrus. It’s made from old vines Delicately light in color, this is a fresh-faced wine. It has 86 Provence). A wine with a light texture and close to Mont Sainte-Victoire in the heart of Provence. notes of raspberry, plum and lemon, with a delicious character, this is very fresh and crisp. It has flavors of T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. level of acidity, a clean texture and a bright aftertaste. white berries, pears and red plums, with lemon zest abv: 13% Price: $16 Savio Soares Selections. —R.V. acidity. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $NA Château d’Esclans 2011 Whispering 87 Angel Rosé (Côtes de Provence). The Gassier 2011 Ormilles Rosé (Côtes de Domaine de la Sauveuse 2011 Cuvée entry-level wine from Château d’Esclans, this is red 87 Provence). This is a fat, rich wine, with fruits 86 Château Rosé (Côtes de Provence). fruited, with fine acidity. It has weight and a smooth tex- that are sweet and ripe. With its weight and caramel Delicately perfumed, this is an attractive, fruity wine. ture, with a finish that’s rounded and ripe. Shaw-Ross flavor, it’s a full-bodied effort suitable for food. Advini It layers acidity and a light tannic edge with white fruits International Importers. —R.V. USA. —R.V. and red currants. There is a soft vanilla aftertaste. Vin- abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $NA tage Trading Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15 Château de Saint-Martin 2011 Eternelle Gassier 2011 Sables d’Azur Rosé (Côtes 87 Favorite Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Cit- 87 de Provence). This is very fresh, with light Domaine Houchart 2011 Rosé (Côtes de rus acidity and raspberry fruit combine in this ripe, sun- acidity and a touch of caramel. Its round character is 86 Provence). With its extra richness, this has lost drenched wine. It has a fine balance of crispness, with contrasted with tangerine crispness. Advini USA. —R.V. some fruitiness and acidity, lending a fat feeling. The rich fruits and a delicate lemon note on the finish. Fine abv: NA Price: $NA red fruits are still there, however, coupled with an or- Terroirs LLC. —R.V. ange zest note. Screwcap. David Milligan Selections. abv: 13% Price: $23 Les Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu’île —R.V. 87 de Saint-Tropez 2011 Cave de Saint- abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Château la Tour de l’Evêque 2011 Pétale Roch les Vignes Rosé (Côtes de Provence). An 87 de Rose Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This attractively balanced wine, this is ripe but fresh. The Gassier 2011 Miradou Rosé (Côtes de is a textured wine that’s rich and round. Its citrus and raspberry and orange fruits are vivid and well etched 86 Provence). This is attractive, fruity and lightly red berry fruits are balanced with a spice and caramel into the structure of the wine. Jeff Wellburn Selections. balanced wine. It has great wild-strawberry flavors that character. Plume Ridge Negociants. —R.V. —R.V. are laced with just the right amount of acidity. The finish abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $14 is tight and crisp. Advini USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA

WineMag.com | 55 Les Maîtres Vignerons de Saint-Lou- Mas de Cadenet 2011 Arbaude Rosé Mas de Cadenet 2011 Rosé (Côtes de 86 is 2011 Estandon Rosé (Côtes de 84 (Côtes de Provence). Delicate and round- 89 Provence Sainte-Victoire). A wine that has Provence). This is a smooth wine, with strawberry ed, this has soft vanilla and ripe strawberry flavos. It has just the right balance between acidity and fruit. It’s fruits and a creamy texture. The wine feels just off dry, touches of spice and orange peel, with gentle acidity on smooth and soft, with an attractive zesty texture. The making it accessible, warm and ripe. Screwcap. South- this finish. House Of Burgundy. —R.V. wine has warm richness on the finish. David Bowler ern Wine and Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $14 Wine. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $25 Noble Terroir 2011 Rosé (Côtes de Andrieux & Fils 2011 Cuvée Victoria Rosé 84 Provence). Flavors of red fruit, tangerine and 85 (Côtes de Provence). Soft and rounded, this a touch of spice all contribute to this open, warm effort- COTEAUX D’AIX-EN- has plenty of warm fruits, but misses the acidity, crisp- that has light acidity. Southern Wine and Spirits. —R.V. PROVENCE ness and texture. There is a pepper note on the finish. abv: NA Price: $NA Vinum Distribution Inc. —R.V. Château Vignelaure 2011 Rosé (Coteaux abv: 13% Price: $NA Ravoire et Fils 2011 Domaine Fontanyul 92 d’Aix-en-Provence). For full review see page 84 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This is a sim- 6. Château de Brigue 2011 Signature Rosé ple, clean wine, with light fruit and approachable acid- abv: 13% Price: $21 85 (Côtes de Provence). This is soft and rich, ity. The finish is soft and easy. Saranty Imports. —R.V. with a light and smooth textured. It has red fruit, light abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Commanderie de la Bargemone 2011 acidity and a rounded aftertaste. Tru Wines LLC. —R.V. 91 Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). From abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Les Vignerons de Grimaud 2011 Cuvée this estate founded in the 13th century comes a finely 83 du Golfe de Saint-Tropez Rosé (Côtes de made wine. Its dryness combines well with great flavors Château Deffends 2011 Cuvée Première Provence). Soft and rounded, this has caramel and of red currant, raspberry and lime. It is delicious with 85 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A ripe style of strawberry flavors, but it misses some crispness. Volubi- food or as an apéritif. Hand Picked Selections. Editors’ wine, typified by its caramel element and full, spicy lis Import Inc. —R.V. Choice. —R.V. fruit. With its weight, it should pair well with food. New abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $19 France Wine Co. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13 Quinson Fils 2010 Rosé (Côtes de Domaine Saint-Aix 2011 Aix Rosé (Cote- 83 Provence). This is soft, with candy and 90 aux d’Aix-en-Provence). For full review see Domaine de la Sauveuse 2011 Cuvée raspbery flavors. Its acidity offers some freshness along page 9. Editors’ Choice. 85 Carolle Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This with light sweetness on the finish. Drink now. Latitude abv: 13% Price: $19 is rich and soft, with sweet red fruits and some acidity. Wines, Inc. —R.V. It’s full-bodied and should fair well with food. Vintage abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Château Vignelaure 2011 La Source Trading Inc. —R.V. 89 Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). The abv: 13% Price: $13 second rosé from Vignelaure is a delicate, fruity wine, CÔTES DE PROVENCE with attractive acidity to go with its orange and white Les Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu’île SAINTE-VICTOIRE fruit flavors. The finish is smooth, with just a tang of 85 de Saint-Tropez 2011 Provence One lemon zest. Blue Coast International. Best Buy. —R.V. Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Simple and fruity, this Château Coussin 2011 Rosé (Côtes de abv: 13% Price: $14 has tangy a tangy raspberry flavor. It’s light and zesty, 92 Provence Sainte-Victoire). Crisp, bright and with a fine, fresh aftertaste. Jerome Selection. —R.V. delicious, this has pure red fruit, with an herb note, in- Domaine d’Eole 2011 Rosé (Coteaux abv: 13% Price: $17 tense acidity and a tangy texture. T. Edward Wines Ltd. 89 d’Aix-en-Provence). This is a full-bodied Editors’ Choice. —R.V. wine that has plenty of weight and richness. It has spice Vignobles de Roany 2011 Provence Rosé abv: 13% Price: $20 as well as ripe red fruits; its balanced with delicious 85 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This is soft and acidity and a dart of orange peel. Jeff Wellburn Selec- round, with flavors of sugared orange and caramel. It’s Gassier 2011 Château Gassier Cuvée tions. —R.V. an attractive, easy apéritif rosé. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. 91 946 Rosé (Côtes de Provence Sainte-Vic- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $13 toire). This is complex, ripe and full of sweet raspberry fruit. Impressive and dense, it’s balanced with acidity Gassier 2011 Château Beaulieu Rosé Château Pas du Cerf 2011 Rosé (Côtes and a tense tannic structure. Advini USA. —R.V. 89 (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). This is dry 84 de Provence). This is full, soft and a little abv: NA Price: $15 and spicy, with a full character. Perfumed and rich, it’s heavy. It’s condensed with sweetness from the rich fruit concentrated and packed with wild strawberry fruit. It and misses some crispness. French Country Wines. Château Maupague 2011 Rosé (Côtes finishes with intense acidity. Advini USA. —R.V. —R.V. 90 de Provence Sainte-Victoire). Lively and abv: NA Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $17 crisp, this is a finely balanced rosé. Its raspberry fruits are allied to notes of grapefruit and mineral, with deli- Les Quatre Tours 2011 Esprit Sud Rosé Domaine du Grand Cros 2011 Jules Rosé cious mouthwatering acidity. Frank Johnson Selections. 89 (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Herb and 84 (Côtes de Provence). Soft and ripe, this has —R.V. strawberry flavors shine through this rich, southern- sweet strawberry and spice flavors, with an herbal edge. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 feeling wine. It is ripe and smooth, with a bright, lively The wine is rich and full bodied, with a touch of pepper aftertaste. HB Wine Merchants. —R.V. on the finish. The Barterhouse. —R.V. Domaine Houchart 2011 Rosé (Côtes de abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 90 Provence Sainte-Victoire). This is a crisp, fruity and delicate wine. With its pale gray-pink color Les Quatre Tours 2011 Signature Rosé Les Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu’île de and lively acidity, it has both concentration and light- 89 (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). This is a 84 Saint-Tropez 2011 Cep d’Or Rosé (Côtes ness; it’s so poised. David Milligan Selections. Editors’ powerful and rich rosé that’s best with food. It has de Provence). This is a gentle wine that has some Choice. —R.V. weight and smooth fruit; the red fruit and mandarin weight and richness. Its fruit is soft, ripe and warm. Je- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 orange flavors are ripe and forward. Age this for a few rome Selection. —R.V. months. JWI. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 Château de Calavon 2011 Rosé (Cote- finish is deliciously fruity. Screwcap. Southern Wine and apple flavors. Keep for 3–4 years. Screwcap. Blue Dan- 88 aux d’Aix-en-Provence). Fruity and ripe, Spirits. —R.V. ube Wine Co. —R.V. this has rich red fruits and a smooth texture, with abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA blended acidity. Its concentrated, with a piquant edge of pepper from the alcohol. A Tres Vite. —R.V. Chateau La Calisse 2011 Patricia Ortelli Hirsch 2010 Kammerner Lamm Reserve abv: 14% Price: $20 87 Rosé (Coteaux Varois). This has superrich 93 Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Ripe and per- fruit, spice and a touch of pepper, revealing a wine that fumed, this has almond, apple and baked-pear flavors Château Paradis 2011 Rosé (Coteaux is powerful for a Provence rosé. This is impressive and that are layered with notes of nutmeg and pepper. It’s a 88 d’Aix-en-Provence). This is full bodied and finely made. Margaux & Company. —R.V. concentrated wine, with acidity that has become round- aromatic, with ripe red fruits layered with spice and abv: 14.5% Price: $NA ed. Made from a top Kamptal vineyard, this has the pepper. With its weight, this is a food-friendly wine— potential for aging further. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik great for barbecued fish. Central Market. —R.V. Chateau La Calisse 2011 Rosé (Coteaux Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 86 Varois). Full bodied and rich, this is a concen- abv: 13% Price: $NA trated effort. Flavors of pepper and spice, red plum and Les Quatre Tours 2011 Classique Rosé ripe strawberry combine in this powerful wine. Mar- Kurt Angerer 2010 Eichenstaude Grüner 88 (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Smooth yet gaux & Company. —R.V. 93 Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Almost sweet crisp, this has attractive acidity and strawberry fruit. It is abv: 14.5% Price: $NA in its richness, this succeeds despite being the antithesis poised and elegant, with just the right amount of acidity. of Grüner. It’s so ripe, so full, yet wonderfully balanced. VOS Selections. —R.V. Château Routas 2011 Rosé (Coteaux Va- This is worth aging over 3–4 years. Weygandt-Metzler. abv: 13% Price: $11 86 rois). This is very soft and rounded, with a cara- Cellar Selection. —R.V. mel edge. Its warm, ripe mouthfeel is marked by fruity, abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Ravoire et Fils 2011 Domaine de la Ra- light acidity and a splash of lime. Screwcap. USA Wine 87 biotte Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). West. —R.V. Salomon-Undhof 2011 Wachtberg Erste This is a rich red-berry-fruited wine. It is balanced abv: 13% Price: $13 93 Lage Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). For full and full, with nutmeg and pepper as well as crisp fruit review see page 5. Cellar Selection. flavors. With its ripeness, it’s certainly suitable for food. Château de l’Escarelle 2011 iPink Rosé abv: 13% Price: $28 Saranty Imports. —R.V. 85 (Coteaux Varois). A soft wine, with just a abv: 13% Price: $NA touch of sweetness. The ripe fruit lends a gentle, smooth Eichinger 2011 Wechselberg Grüner texture, and it’s balanced with attractive red-currant 92 Veltliner (Kamptal). Ripe and creamy, this is Château Revelette 2011 Rosé (Coteaux acidity. Metrowine Distribution. —R.V. full of rich pear and green plum fruit. It has weight and 86 d’Aix-en-Provence). On the rich side, this is abv: 13% Price: $20 is layered with acidity, with a spice note and a taut, min- a full-bodied and forward. It’s concentrated and spicy, eral texture. This is complex and ageworthy. Weygandt- and with its weight it is a food-friendly wine. Langdon Metzler. —R.V. Shiverick. —R.V. AUSTRIA abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $18 GRÜNER VELTLINER Geyerhof 2010 Gaisberg Erste Lage 92 Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). COTEAUX VAROIS Schloss Gobelsburg 2010 Lamm Erste While the wine is technically dry, its richness gives it a Lage Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Château de l’Escarelle 2011 Les Belles 94 sweeter sensation. The ripe apricot and pineapple fruit This is concentrated and ripe, with its fruit sublimated is cut with knife-like acidity, allowing this concentrated Bastilles Rosé (Coteaux Varois). Pink 90 into a tense, mineral texture, layered with equally in- wine to remain poised, with a crisp finish. Blue Danube fruited and light, with an attractive herbal character. tense acidity. It has power, with the fruit lending a rich, Wine Co. —R.V. The crisp acidity cuts right through the rich mouthfeel. full-bodied finish. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Bright and lively, the finish has a grapefruit note that abv: 13.5% Price: $40 lends lift. Willette Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Kurt Angerer 2010 Loam Grüner Veltliner abv: 13% Price: $18 Eichinger 2010 Gaisberg Erste Lage Re- 92 (Niederösterreich). A rich and creamy wine, serve Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). This Domaine du Deffends 2011 Rosé d’une 93 this is full of the ripest fruit. It has flavors of yellow fruit concentrated wine hits the palate like the shock of a and pineapple, with intense acidity. The wine is power- Nuit (Coteaux Varois). Delicious and crisp, 90 cold shower. As the fruit settles, it shows depth of flavor, ful yet balanced, with a delicious acidity on the finish. this has an initial taste of intense citrus and red fruit. with notes of green apples and honey. Young and crisp, Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. The sensation carries through the wine, with a fruity yet this is worth aging for another year at least. Weygandt- abv: 14% Price: $NA taut and mineral-driven texture. There is great fruit on Metzler. —R.V. the finish. Robert Chadderdon Selections. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Markus Huber 2011 Obere Steigen abv: 13.5% Price: $25 92 Grüner Veltliner (Traisental). This is finely Forstreiter 2010 Tabor Reserve Die Räri- Château Margüi 2011 Perle de Mar- proportioned, with intense fruit flavors laced with spice, 93 tat Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). This is in- acidity and a mineral texture. Made using grapes from güi Rosé (Coteaux Varois). From organic 88 tensely rich, with very concentrated ripe fruit. Apple a single vineyard, it is concentrated, with a depth of in- grapes, this is a soft, red-fruited wine. The tang of acidi- and peach flavors are cut by acidity. A note of pepper tense flavor. For aging over 3–4 years. Screwcap. Circo ty is well balanced by the full fruit character. It’s ripe and details the finish. Age for 3–4 years. Frederick Wildman Vino. —R.V. attractively structured. Michael Corso Selections. & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $22 Salomon-Undhof 2011 Wiedenberg Tra- Geyerhof 2010 Steinleithn Erste Lage Re- 92 dition Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). For full Les Maîtres Vignerons de Saint-Louis serve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Steely 2011 Terres de Saint-Lion Rosé (Coteaux 93 review see page 7. 88 and mineral in character, this is a taut, nervy wine. It abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Varois). The wine is crisp, full of red berry fruit and has great acidity and balance, with green fruit and sliced lively acidity, with a smooth texture. This is terrific as an Stadt Krems 2010 Wachtberg Erste Lage accompaniment to a summer meal or as an apéritif. The 92 Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). This

WineMag.com | 57 is rich and concentrated. It has weight, with the ripe from grapes sourced from the Gebling Vineyard, this acidity holds everything together. Screwcap. Frederick white-peach fruit giving a smooth edge to the otherwise has broad, ripe yellow fruit and a touch of spice. With Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. taut, mineral acidity. Age over 3–4 years. Glass stopper. its rich mouthfeel, it is a serious wine, both complex abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Winebow. —R.V. and intense. Age for at least a year. Screwcap. Boutique abv: 13% Price: $40 Wine Collection. —R.V. Hermann Moser 2011 Karmeliterberg abv: 13% Price: $30 90 Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Crisply fruity, Summerer 2010 Schenkenbichl Reserve this is delicate, with clean lines of acidity. It shows 92 Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Beautiful- Nigl 2010 Senftenberger Pellingen Erste delicious flavors of green apple and bitter orange, ly smooth, this ripe wine contrasts its rich peach and 91 Lage Privat Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). with a tangy, zesty texture. The finish is dry and taut. pineapple flavors with a squeezed lime note and taut A wine that pushes the concept of Grüner to its limits. Screwcap. Boutique Wine Collection. —R.V. acidity. With its intensely-fruity finish, this is a wine for It is powerful, dense and concentrated, with spice, ly- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 aging. Savio Soares Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. chee and apricot flavors. This is full bodied, superrich. abv: 13% Price: $28 Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. Hirsch 2010 Kammerner Heiligen- abv: 14.5% Price: $52 90 stein Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). This is Türk 2010 Kremser Sandgrube Reserve beautifully crisp, with its acidity cutting the tense, min- 92 Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). This is a pow- Rabl 2010 Käferberg Reserve Grüner eral texture. It has a light touch, and is perfumed with erful and intense wine, with its rich fruit encased by 91 Veltliner (Kamptal). This is concentrated green apple and pineapple notes that dance on the pal- a tight line of acidity. It has great depth of fruit, with fruity and very spicy. It has an intensity of fruit flavor, ate. Age 2–3 years. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. structure and a spice note. With its acidity, this is a wine its nutmeg character balanced by crisp green apples, —R.V. that should age. Screwcap. Niche Import Company. pear skins and a great depth of acidity. Screwcap. Verity abv: 12% Price: $NA Cellar Selection. —R.V. Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $29 abv: 13.5% Price: $29 Loimer 2011 Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). 90 Rich and rounded, this has notes of spice and Unger 2010 Gottschelle Erste Lage Re- Salomon-Undhof 2010 Von Stein Re- ripe white and yellow fruit. Immediately attractive, it 92 serve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Tex- 91 serve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). This is has complex acidity and a zesty texture. This should be tured and concentrated, this offers layers of green fruit an elegant wine that has a smooth, perfumed character, ready to drink in 6 months. Screwcap. Winebow. —R.V. and tightly controlled acidity. Packed with fruit, this with a racy, peppery edge. It has a crisp element, white abv: 12.5% Price: $22 complex wine should age for several more years. Screw- fruit and pineapple. This should age for several years. cap. Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. Screwcap. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. Nigl 2010 Herzstück vom Kirchenberg abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $55 90 Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Really ripe, this is a full-bodied wine that is full of tropical fruit con- Unger 2010 Oberfeld Erste Lage Alte Re- Wieninger 2011 Herrenholz Grüner Velt- trasted with green apple flavor. It has weight, intensity 92 ben Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). 91 liner (Vienna). Pepper and spice notes domi- and just a hint of spice. This should be aged 1–2 years at Rich and almost liquorous in its texture, this is power- nate this wine. It has a full texture and a ripe charac- least. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. ful stuff. It has weight, with intense, concentrated fla- ter from the apricot and kiwi flavors. Concentrated and abv: 13.5% Price: $53 vors of tropical fruit, spice and a smooth character. The rich, it would benefit from a year of aging. Winebow. acidity lends lift on the finish. Screwcap. Adventures In —R.V. Pratsch 2010 Steinberg Grüner Veltliner Wine. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $28 90 (Niederösterreich). With its pear and apricot abv: 14.5% Price: $NA fruits, this has a delicious full-bodied character, and the Allram 2010 Hasel Alte Reben Reserve the grapefruit acidity keeps it fresh. Screwcap. Wine- Weixelbaum 2010 Wahre Welte Reserve 90 Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Combining sellers Ltd. —R.V. 92 Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). This is a big, richness and freshness, this has a crisp apple flavor abv: 13% Price: $25 fruity wine that has a dense texture and intense white that mingles with smooth-textured yellow fruit. Its ripe fruit and peach fruit flavors. It’s an impressive, rich while still preserving its taut finish. Screwcap. Vias Im- Steininger 2011 Grand Cru Grüner Velt- wine, worth aging for 2–3 years. Screwcap. Slocum & ports. —R.V. 90 liner (Kamptal). This is an intriguingly-spiced Sons, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA wine that shows a cinnamon flavor along with notes of abv: 13% Price: $NA concentrated, rich yellow fruit and lime. It’s an exotic Dürnberg 2011 Grüner Veltliner (Wein- wine that will need two years to come together. Screw- Felsner 2011 Alte Reben Reserve Grüner 90 viertel). Rounded yet fresh, this is a warm, in- cap. Select Wines. —R.V. 91 Veltliner (Niederösterreich). A hugely-rich tense, spicy wine with just the right balance between abv: 13.5% Price: $28 wine that is very concentrated, offering as much pepper fruit and acidity. It has good minerality that lends tex- flavor as fruit. With its weight and soft, velvety texture, ture. Screwcap. Private Reserve. —R.V. Stift Göttweig 2010 Gottschelle Erste there are notes of ripe yellow fruit and pear. This should abv: 12.5% Price: $17 90 Lage Reserve Grüner Veltliner (Krem- age over several years. Screwcap. Slocum & Sons, Inc. stal). Rich and smooth, this wine shows weight with su- Cellar Selection. —R.V. Felsner 2010 Vordernberg Reserve perripe fruit that offers a mellow take on Grüner. With abv: 14% Price: $NA 90 Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Big and its spice, pineapple and dried apricot flavors, this is both rich, this is just settling into its stride. It has weight fruity and structured. Winemonger. —R.V. Forstreiter 2010 Schiefer Reserve Grüner and richness, with taut acidity as well as a forward, abv: 13.5% Price: $32 91 Veltliner (Kremstal). A currant flavor push- concentrated, fruity character. For food and for aging. es this wine to a rich, concentrated fruitiness. It is dry, Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. Zull 2011 Grüner Veltliner (Weinviertel). although the superripe fruit gives an illusion of sweet- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 90 A wine that shows all the typicity of cool-climate ness. The concentration and density of the fruit are im- Grüner. It has pear, baked-apple and lemon zest flavors pressive. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Forstreiter 2011 Schiefer Reserve Grüner that are combined in a delicious tangy texture. The wine —R.V. 90 Veltliner (Kremstal). This is full bodied, ripe is rich while remaining light and lively. Drink soon, or abv: 13.5% Price: $NA and creamy. It has flavors of tropical fruit, spiced pine- age over 1–2 years. Screwcap. Magellan Wine Imports. apple and a touch of pepper. The underlying grapefruit —R.V. Hermann Moser 2011 Fortissimo Re- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 91 serve Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). Made

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2011 Arndorfer 2008 Die Leidenschaft Grüner and elegant. The wine could age for a few years. Screw- Salomon-Undhof 2011 Hochterrassen 89 Veltliner (Niederösterreich). This is a ma- cap. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. 88 Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). This ture Grüner that’s rich, ripe and deliciously smooth. It abv: 13% Price: $20 is ripe, with a creamy and peppery character that’s bal- has a great depth of flavor, with notes of wild herb and anced with intense red-apple and pineapple flavors. It’s passion fruit that are balanced with mature acidity. In- Rabl 2011 Spiegl Grüner Veltliner (Kamp- textured and infused with grapefruit acidity. Ready to die Wineries. —R.V. 89 tal). This is a crisp, green-fruited wine with all drink. Screwcap. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $40 its flavors concentrated in a full, fruity character. It has abv: 12% Price: $17 citrus and lively mineral notes, with a juicy texture. Ripe Buchegger 2011 Gebling Grüner Veltliner and rich yet not heavy, it’s almost drinkable now. Screw- Stadt Krems 2011 Weinzierlberg Grüner 89 (Kremstal). A full-bodied, ripe wine, showing cap. Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. 88 Veltliner (Kremstal). There’s very clean and flavors of pepper and apricot. It feels rich and smooth, abv: 12.5% Price: $15 pure fruit on this light, fresh wine. Tight with acidity, with a full texture and a good depth of green and yellow it has a green apple flavor and a good pinch of pepper. fruits. The finish has a fine lift of acidity. Screwcap. -Da Stift Göttweig 2011 Göttweiger Berg This is a great summer wine. Winebow. —R.V. vid Bowler Wine. —R.V. 89 Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). With its rich abv: 12.5% Price: $16 abv: 13% Price: $21 feel, this is a ripe and rounded wine. It has layers of yellow fruit and green apple flavor, with a crisp yet full Steininger 2010 Kittmansberg Reserve Buchegger 2011 Holzgasse Grüner Velt- character. Although it’s drinkable now, it’s worth aging 88 Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). Rich and lus- 89 liner (Niederösterreich). This has green ap- for two years. Screwcap. Winemonger. —R.V. cious, this is a tropical-fruited wine. Fruitiness is the ple and creamed pear flavors, with a lively, buoyant tex- abv: 12.5% Price: $17 driving force here, and the acidity keeps this full-bod- ture. It’s worth aging for a few more months. Screwcap. ied effort proportioned and crisp. Glass stopper. Select David Bowler Wine. —R.V. Weixelbaum 2010 Alte Reben Reserve Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 89 Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). This is a very abv: 13.5% Price: $35 herbal wine, with a green medicinal edge that contrasts Eichinger 2011 Hasel Grüner Veltliner the rich yellow-fruit flavor. There is concentration, Thierry-Weber 2011 Animo Grüner Velt- 89 (Kamptal). Delicately perfumed, this has ripe, dense fruits and a soft, ripe finish. Screwcap. Slocum & 88 liner (Kremstal). This is a soft wine, with at- intense aromas of apricot and pear. It is round and con- Sons, Inc. —R.V. tractive acidity and clean green-fruit flavor. The wine is centrated, with a full texture and minerality. Screwcap. abv: 13% Price: $NA crisp, with green apples dominating the mineral texture. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. Screwcap. Savio Soares Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Allram 2011 Strassertaler Grüner Velt- abv: 12% Price: $NA 88 liner (Kamptal). A smooth and creamy wine, Hermann Moser 2011 Per Due Grüner with a rich, fruity baked-apple character, and tense, Weixelbaum 2011 Stephanus Grüner 89 Veltliner (Kremstal). With considerable tangy acidity. There is a touch of pepper that offers con- 88 Veltliner (Kamptal). This is a light and fruity depth of flavor, this is a rounded, smooth wine. Its green trast. Drinkable now, this is also worth aging. Screwcap. style of Grüner, with a crisp green-fruit flavor. It is im- apple flavor is laced with notes of pink grapefruit, crisp Vias Imports. —R.V. mediately accessible, with a spice note and bright acid- pear and a touch of peppered kiwi. It’s ready to drink abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ity on the finish. Screwcap. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. but also worth aging for a few months. Screwcap. Bou- abv: 12% Price: $NA tique Wine Collection. —R.V. Felsner 2010 Gedersdorfer Moosbur- abv: 12% Price: $13 88 gerin Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Wieninger 2011 Vienna Hills Grüner Velt- This is a wine dominated by Grüner’s signature pepper 88 liner (Vienna). Light and bright, this has pear Höpler 2011 Guttenberg Grüner Veltliner character. It is weighty and round, with its acidity cush- and apple flavors. The acidity cuts through to balance 89 (Burgenland). This is rounded, with a creamy ioned by richness. Give this wine at least a year. Screw- the fruitiness, with a lively lemon-peel note and an edge texture and fruity aromas. It’s warm, with pear and cap. Slocum & Sons, Inc. —R.V. of minerality. Winebow. —R.V. baked-apple flavors set over wood spice. Worth aging abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12% Price: $22 for a few months. Screwcap. USA Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA Felsner 2010 Rohrendorfer Gebling Winzer Krems 2011 Grüner Veltliner (Nie- 88 Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). A 88 derösterreich). Warm and rounded, this is Laurenz V. 2011 Forbidden Grüner Velt- crisp wine that’s full of acidity, this has flavors of green full of tropical fruit flavors. It has a zing of citrus, with 89 liner (Niederösterreich). The name is de- fruit and pepper. It feels rich while still showing its its lively fruit remains balanced with a full, ripe feel. Age rived from the forbidden fruit of the Garden of Eden. fruity and lively aftertaste. Screwcap. Slocum & Sons, for a few months or drink now. Screwcap. Total Wine & Off dry, ripe and round, it’s lightly honeyed, with Inc. —R.V. More. —R.V. tempting flavors of peach and pineapple. Screwcap. Fo- abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $NA lio Fine Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 11% Price: $19 Forstreiter 2011 Kremser Kogl Bergwein Felsner 2010 Lössterrassen Grüner Velt- 88 Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). This is a pep- 87 liner (Niederösterreich). Soft and creamy, Markus Huber 2011 Terrassen Grüner per- and apple-flavored wine with refreshing acidity that this has a crisp element that’s nicely balanced by kiwi 89 Veltliner (Traisental). This is smooth, with cuts through its richness. Using grapes sourced from and baked-apple flavors. There’s a hint of spice along creamed apple and pink grapefruit notes. Textured and the Kogl Vineyard, this shows perfumed ripeness and with a bright and fresh finish. Screwcap. Slocum & concentrated, this has delicious pure fruit flavor that’s intense crispness. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Inc. —R.V. contrasted with a touch of pepper and intense acidity. Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $17 Laurenz V. 2011 Laurenz and Sophie Pratsch 2010 Sandgrube Grüner Veltlin- 87 Singing Grüner Veltliner (Niederöster- Pratsch 2010 Rotenpüllen Grüner Velt- 88 er (Weinviertel). An attractive, crisp wine that reich). This is a floral effort perfumed with apple blos- 89 liner (Niederösterreich). A smooth and rich boasts all the right citrus and green herb flavors along som. The palate is rich and creamy, with intense acid- wine, this has weight and concentration. At the same with a hint of pepper. Bright and ready to drink. Screw- ity balanced by peach and pear flavors. It has a smooth time, it has an attractive, light-hearted feel that’s poised cap Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. finish. Screwcap. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $21 abv: 12% Price: $16

WineMag.com | 59 Loimer 2011 Lois Grüner Veltliner (Nie- for aging. Screwcap. Total Wine & More. Best Buy. rich, with a concentration of perfumed fruit and intense 87 derösterreich). Light and crisp, this has clean —R.V. layers of minerality. It has spice, kiwi and pink grape- pear and grapefruit flavors. With its enticing acidity, this abv: 12.5% Price: $11 fruit flavors. This is a wine that needs to age for several is a great summer quaff. Screwcap. Winebow. —R.V. years. Screwcap. Circo Vino. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $16 Zull 2011 Lust & Laune Grüner Veltliner abv: 12.5% Price: $25 86 (Niederösterreich). In the light style of value Winzer Krems 2011 Kellermeister Privat Austrian white wine, this is full of crisp, fresh flavors of Stift Göttweig 2010 Silberbichl Erste 87 Goldberg Grüner Veltliner (Kremstal). apple and grapefruit, with just a touch of pepper. Drink 93 Lage Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). The This is a soft, creamed-apple style of wine, with a great now. Screwcap. Magellan Wine Imports. —R.V. vineyards of the Benedictine monastery of Göttweig shaft of acidity cutting through the crisp fruit. Kiwi and abv: 12% Price: $14 are now run by the Stadt Krems winemaking team. gooseberry fruits are lifted on the bright, lively finish. The quality is now impeccable, as this gorgeous, opu- Total Wine & More. —R.V. Brandl 2011 Grüner Veltliner (Kamptal). lent Riesling shows. With weight and a fine balance be- abv: 13% Price: $18 85 Round and soft, this is immediately drinkable. tween fruit and structure, this will age over many years. Its acidity and green fruit flavors are well balanced; the Winemonger. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Brandl 2011 Pfaffenberg Grüner Veltliner wine dances easily on the palate. Screwcap. Domaine abv: 13% Price: $32 86 (Kamptal). Taut and crisp, this has tight acid- Select Wine Estates. —R.V. ity and a lively green-fruit character. It’s full of attrac- abv: 12% Price: $16 Domäne Wachau 2010 Achleiten Riesling tive fruit, with a mouthwatering finish. Ready to drink. 92 Smaragd (Wachau). For full review see page Screwcap. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —R.V. Thierry-Weber 2011 Grüner Veltliner 6. Cellar Selection. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 85 (Niederösterreich). This is a simple, fruity abv: 13.5% Price: $50 wine—great for quaffing as a summer apéritif. It is at- Dürnberg 2011 L & T Grüner Veltliner tractively crisp, fresh, and it’s laced with grapefruit, ap- Forstreiter 2010 Schiefer Reserve Ries- 86 (Niederösterreich). This wine has a crisp ple and pepper flavors. Screwcap. Savio Soares Selec- 92 ling (Kremstal). This is an intriguing wine, character, tangy with apples and laced with citrus fruits. tions. —R.V. with its perfumed aromas of wild flower and cinnamon. It’s totally ready to drink. Screwcap. Private Reserve. abv: 12% Price: $NA/1 L The acidity cuts through the delicious apple flavor, and —R.V. the finish has a great crisp feel. Screwcap. Frederick abv: 11.5% Price: $15 Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. RIESLING abv: 13% Price: $NA Forstreiter 2011 Grooner Grüner Veltlin- Eichinger 2010 Heiligenstein Erste Lage er (Niederösterreich). This is very much in Hirsch 2010 Gaisberg Erste Lage Re- 86 Reserve Riesling (Kamptal). The richness the light, fruity style of instantly-drinkable Grüner. It’s 95 serve Riesling (Kamptal). Smooth and of this superb wine comes from the concentrated fruit 92 packed with green apple flavor and bright acidity. The beautifully perfumed, this has pure fruit flavors, with flavors allied to the densely textured acidity and min- finish is marked with a tang of citrus. Screwcap. Freder- hints of walnut, spice and intense minerality. The wine erality. It’s so complex, with both warmth and an icicle ick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. is crisp, promising a future that will be richer and im- crispness. It’s ready for aging over at least 5 years. Wey- abv: 12% Price: $10 pressive. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. gandt-Metzler. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Green Eyes 2011 Grüner Veltliner (Nie- derösterreich). Hirsch 2009 Gaisberg Erste Lage Ries- 86 Light and crisp, this is a de- Eichinger 2010 Gaisberg Erste Lage Re- licious green-fruited wine that has a crisp texture and ling (Kamptal). This is a smooth, ripe wine serve Riesling (Kamptal). This has great 92 lively acidity. Screwcap. Boutique Wine Collection. 94 that’s just beginning to mellow. The flavors of toast and concentration of fruit, texture and acidity. It has white —R.V. cashew are opulent, with just a touch of spice. It has and green fruits layered upon the mineral and zesty tex- abv: 12% Price: $11 weight and a finish that shows both acidity and richness. ture. The wine is ripe and yet so crisp and fresh. It is Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. ready to age for many years. Weygandt-Metzler. Cellar Höpler 2011 Grüner Veltliner (Burgen- abv: 13% Price: $NA Selection. —R.V. land). This has fresh citrus and dried apricot 86 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA flavors, with Grüner’s typical peppery edge. For drink- Kirchmayr 1992 Solist Riesling (Kamp- tal). ing now. Screwcap. USA Wine Imports. —R.V. Geyerhof 2010 Kirchensteig Erste Lage 92 This has memorable aromas of warm hat, abv: 12% Price: $NA green herbs and perfumed fruit candy. It is a delicious Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). One of a se- 93 wine that has been aged in cask before bottling. Do- ries of great single-vineyard wines from Geyerhof, this Markus Huber 2011 Hugo Grüner Velt- maine Select Wine Estates. —R.V. is as impressive as the rest. It has weight, complexity liner (Niederösterreich). This is crisp, clean abv: 12.5% Price: $75 86 and richness. Its perfumed fruits provide a delicate and light. It is fruity with green apple flavor, and it has counterpoint to the acidity, taut minerality and herbal a tight texture. The finish is floral and aromatic. Screw- Nigl 2010 Senftenberger Pellingen Erste edge. For aging over at least five years. Martin Scott cap. Circo Vino. —R.V. Lage Privat Riesling (Kremstal). While this Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 92 abv: 12% Price: $12 is rich, it is also balanced and elegant. This is an impres- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA sive, ageworthy wine, with a perfumed, spicy charac- Winzer Krems 2011 Handverlesen Hirsch 2009 Zöbinger Heiligenstein Er- ter. It has white fruit and peach flavors and taut acidity. Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Clas- Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. 86 ste Lage Riesling (Kamptal). This Riesling sically crisp, this is packed with attractive green fruits. It 93 abv: 13.5% Price: $67 is light, delicate and perfumed, revealing the minerality has a tang of citrus and a lively bite. Fruity and ready to of the vineyard and the wine’s aging potential. Keep for drink. Screwcap. Total Wine & More. —R.V. Rabl 2010 Schenkenbichl Reserve Ries- 5–10 years. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. Cellar abv: 12.5% Price: $NA ling (Kamptal). Delicious and full bodied, this Selection. —R.V. 92 has both weight and delicacy. It is rich and dry, with abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Winzer Krems 2011 Ried Sandgrube swathes of ripe apricot and pineapple that cut through Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). This 86 Markus Huber 2011 Engelreich Riesling the tense acidity. A wine for aging over 5–6 years. is a light wine, with a white fruit flavor and a taut, min- Screwcap. Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. (Traisental). From the single vineyard Engel- eral character. It is all fruit with layer upon layer of pear 93 abv: 13% Price: $34 reich—which translates to the angel’s kingdom—this is and crisp acidity. Drink over the year as it’s not meant

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 Salomon-Undhof 2011 Pfaffenberg Er- flower and white currant. The wine has a dense texture, Eichinger 2011 Vom Berg Riesling 92 ste Lage Riesling (Kremstal). This is a taut, giving both concentration and a mineral core. Screw- 88 (Kamptal). With its perfumed fruit and bright terroir-driven Riesling. It is textured with both mineral- cap. Winebow. —R.V. acidity, this dances across the palate. Flavors include ity and tense, racy fruitiness. With its perfumed back- abv: 12.5% Price: $25 spice, peach, grapefruit and lemon zest, which all ground, this is a wine for aging. Screwcap. Fruit of the meld into a light, refreshing whole. Screwcap. Wey- Vines, Inc. —R.V. Salomon-Undhof 2011 Undhof Kögl Er- gandt-Metzler. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $35 91 ste Lage Riesling (Kremstal). This wine abv: 12.5% Price: $NA balances ripeness with crispness. There is a spice note Stadt Krems 2010 Grillenparz Erste Lage as well as a smooth texture that will round out further as Kirchmayr 1988 Solist Altenberg Riesling 92 Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). This is a pow- the wine develops over the next four years.. Fruit of the 88 (Weinviertel). Almost sweet in its old age, this erful Riesling that concentrates more on the weight, Vines, Inc. —R.V. ethereal wine has crisp acidity to go with its almond richness and spice than on the fruit. It has a structured, abv: 13% Price: $28 and mushroom flavors. Domaine Select Wine Estates. intense character that offers long-term aging. The —R.V. finish is full bodied and powerful. Winebow. Cellar Se- Zull 2011 Innere Bergen Riesling (Nie- abv: 11.5% Price: $95 lection. —R.V. 91 derösterreich). A beautifully perfumed wine, abv: 13.5% Price: $40 with aromas of white flowers and white fruits. It’s rich Domäne Wachau 2011 Terrassen Ries- and full of complex ripe fruits, with a smooth texture. 87 ling Federspiel (Wachau). An immediately Allram 2010 Heiligenstein Erste Lage Re- Intense acidity marks the finish. Screwcap. Magellan delicious wine, perfumed with fruit blossoms and laden 91 serve Riesling (Kamptal). An excellent wine Wine Imports. —R.V. with ripe citrus fruits and pears. With its cutting acid- from the great Heiligenstein Vineyard. Its perfumed abv: 13% Price: $27 ity, it will age, but it is so delicious now. Screwcap. Vin character is full of rich pear and peach flavors, with the Divino. —R.V. cut of intense citrus. The tense mineral texture prom- Brandl 2011 Heiligenstein Erste Lage Re- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 ises good aging. Screwcap. Vias Imports. —R.V. 90 serve Riesling (Kamptal). This is a delicate abv: 13.5% Price: $NA wine that blossoms with white fruit flavors and taut acid- Forstreiter 2011 Donau Riesling Ries- ity. It’s very tense, with fine depth of flavor and a mouth- 87 ling (Kremstal). A perfumed wine from the Arndorfer 2008 Die Leidenschaft Ries- watering texture that will take several years to mature. Krems Vineyards, with flavors of white fruits, currants 91 ling (Niederösterreich). Beautifully per- Screwcap. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —R.V. and tangy kiwis. It is poised and elegant, with an exqui- fumed, this is now maturing. It has an elegance, light- abv: 13% Price: $34 site fresh aftertaste. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman & ness of touch and a wonderful almond and spice charac- Sons, Ltd. —R.V. ter. The fruit is softened and rounded, with the acidity Hermann Moser 2011 Kellerterrassen abv: 13% Price: $NA lending a vivid aftertaste. Indie Wineries. —R.V. 90 Reserve Riesling (Kremstal). An intense abv: 12.5% Price: $45 pepper and spice-influenced wine from the Gebling Unger 2010 Stein Terrassen Riesling Vineyard above Krems. It is rich, weighty and intense, 87 (Kremstal). Ripe and opulent, this shows great Brandl 2011 Kogelberg Erste Lage Re- with the spirited acidity lending a refreshing edge. For swathes of white fruit, pineapple and a shaft of acidi- 91 serve Riesling (Kamptal). This is a very aging over several years. Screwcap. Boutique Wine Col- ty cutting through the palate. It is approachable now. closed, terroir-driven wine with a mineral character. lection. —R.V. Screwcap. Verity Wine Partners. —R.V. With its tight structure and flavors of green fruit and abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA spice, it is a wine for aging. Screwcap. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —R.V. Rabl 2011 Steinhaus Riesling (Kamptal). Winzer Krems 2011 Kellermeister Privat abv: 13.5% Price: $34 90 With his emphasis on natural yeast fermenta- 87 Kremsleiten Riesling (Kremstal). This tion, Rudolf Rabl is able to bring out the naturally per- is a perfumed wine, with white fruit flavors and and Buchegger 2010 Moosburgerin Reserve fumed fruitiness of Riesling. This has a feel of the ter- citrus zest acidity. It is still young, tense and tangy, need- 91 Riesling (Kremstal). This is an intense roir; it’s very tangy, minerally and nervy. Screwcap. Ver- ing several months to balance out. Total Wine & More. expression of steely Riesling, with a complex struc- ity Wine Partners. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. —R.V. ture and excellent aging potential. It is full of citrus, abv: 12.5% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $19 pear and crisp pineapple flavors that are laced with concentrated acidity. Age for at least five years. Screw- Loimer 2011 Riesling (Kamptal). This is a cap. David Bowler Wine. Cellar Selection. —R.V. 89 perfumed wine that’s concentrated and full of SAUVIGNON BLANC white fruit, pineapple and kiwi. It has a cool, mineral abv: 13.5% Price: $41 Manfred Tement 2010 Grassnitzberg Er- character lending both freshness and a rich backdrop. ste Lage Sauvignon Blanc (Südsteier- Hermann Moser 2011 Gebling Ries- It could well age for 2–3 years. Screwcap. Winebow. 93 mark). This has the typical character of Sauvignon ling (Kremstal). Pure in character, this has a —R.V. 91 Blanc and its purity of fruit. But it is the minerality, the taut line of perfumed white fruits, with a nervy, tight abv: 12.5% Price: $25 sense of vineyard that sets it apart. This fruity, rich wine character. It is young, needing several years of aging to has a creamy texture that’s worth aging for several years bring out its complex flavors. Boutique Wine Collec- Markus Huber 2011 Terrassen Riesling more. Weygandt-Metzler. Cellar Selection. —R.V. (Traisental). This is a perfumed wine, with tion. —R.V. 89 abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $22 intense flavors of spring blossom, grapefruit and white peach. It has a tight line of acidity that cuts through to Manfred Tement 2009 Zieregg Grosse Hirsch 2010 Zöbinger Heiligenstein Erste the finish. Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V. Lage Sauvignon Blanc (Südsteiermark). Lage Riesling (Niederösterreich). Soft, abv: 12.5% Price: $17 93 91 With its richness and complex wood and spice charac- ripe and perfumed, this has currant and pear flavors. ter, this is an ageworthy wine. It has weight and con- With its intense lemon tang and tense texture, it will Wieninger 2011 Vienna Hills Riesling (Vi- centration, with a series of flavors that go deep into the certainly age. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V. enna). Impressively rich and food-friendly, 89 powerful interior. Tropical fruit notes balance with the abv: 12.5% Price: $NA this has green apple and peach flavors along with in- wine’s herbal edge. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. tense acidity. The mouthfeel has a pepper edge to con- abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Loimer 2011 Lenz Riesling (Kamptal). trast with the fine crisp finish. Glass stopper. Winebow. 91 This is a rich Riesling, with soft apple and —R.V. creamed-pear flavor as well as perfumed notes of white abv: 13% Price: $22

WineMag.com | 61 Manfred Tement 2011 Steirische Klas- acidity cuts through the richness. Screwcap. Private Re- is crisp and perfumed, with a great line of acidity on the 89 sik Sauvignon Blanc (Südsteiermark). serve. —R.V. finish. Winebow. —R.V. Intensely herbal, this is classic Sauvignon Blanc. It is abv: 12.5% Price: $28 abv: 12% Price: $25 packed with green fruit and herb flavors, with lively acidity. It is crisp, full bodied and fruity. Drink now. Markus Huber 2011 Gelber Muskateller Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. 87 (Niederösterreich). Typical aromas of spice ROSÉ abv: 12.5% Price: $NA and lychee mesh with white grape notes. The wine is at- Dürnberg 2011 Blanc de Noir Select tractive, ready to drink, and probably best as an apéritif. Rosé (Niederösterreich). Made from Zwei- Gunter Triebaumer 2011 Sauvignon Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V. 86 gelt, this has a soft feel along with lively acidity. Its rasp- Blanc (Burgenland). This is a ripe Sauvi- abv: 11.5% Price: $25 87 berry flavor is paired with a note of orange peel while gnon Blanc, with herb, yellow fruit and grapefruit aro- the wine finishes with a touch of spice. Scewcap. Private mas. Let this attractive, fruity wine age for another year. Arndorfer 2011 Vorgeschmack (Nie- Reserve. —R.V. derösterreich). This is a ripe, full-in-the- Screwcap. Magellan Wine Imports. —R.V. 86 abv: 12% Price: $17 abv: 13.5% Price: $NA mouth wine. The creamed pear and citrus flavors are delicious. It has poise and an intense fruitiness. Drink Winzer Krems 2011 Rosé (Niederöster- Pratsch 2010 Rotenpüllen Sauvignon now. Screwcap. Indie Wineries. —R.V. reich). This is tightly crisp, with plenty of acid- Blanc (Niederösterreich). Attractively her- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 85 87 ity to give it a mouthwatering character. It is balanced, baceous, this is full of green fruit and intense citrus, with orange and caramel flavors. Great with food. with a tangy texture. Screwcap. Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. Gunter Triebaumer 2011 Trie White (Bur- Screwcap. Total Wine & More. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $23 genland). Bright and attractively fruity, this 85 abv: 11.5% Price: $10 has pear and green apple flavors, with a lemon zest tang. Drink over the next year. Screwcap. Magellan Wine Im- Zull 2011 Lust & Laune Rosé (Niederös- ports. —R.V. OTHER WHITE WINES terreich). Full of bright acidity, this is a crisp abv: 13% Price: $NA 85 Wieninger 2011 Gemischter Satz (Vien- wine, with a taut texture and flavors of red plum and or- na). This is perfumed with crisp apple and light ange. This is a good quaffer with summer food. Screw- 92 Lenz Moser 2010 Klosterkeller Sieg- spice aromas. It’s a delicate yet concentrated wine, with cap. Magellan Wine Imports. —R.V. endorf Weissburgunder (Burgenland). acidity that’s tempered with pepper and a fresh finish. 85 abv: 12% Price: $13 This is a smooth, apple- and apricot-flavored wine. It’s Screwcap. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. crisp and dominated by refreshing acidity. The finish is abv: 12% Price: $22 creamy, with a hint of almond. Screwcap. Niche Import BLAUFRÄNKISCH Company. —R.V. Johanneshof Reinisch 2011 Rotgipfler abv: 11.5% Price: $NA Gunter Triebaumer 2009 Obererwald Re- (Thermenregion). The Rotgipfler is the local 89 serve Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). This is grape for the Thermenregion south of Vienna. This is a 92 a smooth, wood-aged wine that’s full of berry fruits and warm, spice- and pepper-scented wine that also offers a SPARKLING WINE rich tannins. The wine is dark and concentrated, with a rich mouthfeel. Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V. medicinal hint and a juicy element to go with the pow- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 Szigeti 2009 Edition Adele Blanc de erful structure. This should age for 4–5 years and more. Blancs (Osterreichischer Sekt). This is 88 Screwcap. Magellan Wine Imports. Cellar Selection. Kirchmayr 1983 Solist (Thermenregion). a complex, rounded wine. It’s texture is soft, rich and —R.V. This is an off-dry blend of Zierfandler, Rotgip- creamy, layering acidity with ripe flavors of apple and 89 abv: 14% Price: $NA fler and Neuburger—grapes local to the Thermenre- pear. It could age for 1–2 years. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 gion. This wine is now mature but certainly not old. It Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2009 Blau- has mushroom and spice flavors that are lifted by cur- fränkisch (Burgenland). This is a wood- rant acidity that still cuts through the wine. Domaine Gunter Triebaumer NV Muscato (Oster- 91 aged wine that shows structure, dense tannins as well as Select Wine Estates. —R.V. reichischer Sekt). Deliciously perfumed, this 87 juicy red fruits. The wood is finely integrated, lending a abv: 13.5% Price: $110 is as light as a feather, with baked apple and lemon fla- round texture to go with the dry character of the wine. vors. It’s crisp and honey sweet—a great apéritif. Magel- For aging 4–6 years. Winebow. —R.V. Dürnberg 2011 Cool Climate (Niederös- lan Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 88 terreich). Perfumed and spicy, this has fine abv: 7% Price: $NA acidity and a light texture. The wine is bright and crisp, Gunter Triebaumer 2009 Plachen Re- with flavors of pears mingling with green apples. Screw- Steininger 2010 Riesling Sekt Brut (Os- serve Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). Firmly cap. Private Reserve. —R.V. terreichischer Sekt). This is a dry, tangy, cit- 91 87 tannic and structured, this has a dark, black-fruit char- abv: 11.5% Price: $15 rus-flavored wine that bursts in the mouth with a shot of acter along with paprika and pepper. Blackberry and acidity. It’s very crisp, and full of green apple and grape- juicy plum flavors sit behind the tannins. This should Höpler 2011 Pinot Blanc (Burgenland). fruit flavors. Select Wines. —R.V. develop over 5–6 years. Screwcap. Magellan Wine Im- Apricot and grapefruit flavors dominate this abv: 13.5% Price: $30 88 ports. —R.V. soft, ripe and yet crisply-acidic wine. There are spice, abv: 15% Price: $NA almond and melon flavors, with structure and round- Steininger 2010 Grüner Veltliner Sekt Brut (Osterreichischer Sekt). A wine with ness. Finely balanced and ready to drink. Screwcap. 86 Gunter Triebaumer 2009 Reserve Blau- USA Wine Imports. —R.V. attractive softness, this has a slight edge of sweetness fränkisch (Burgenland). Properly rustic, this abv: 12.5% Price: $NA and perfumed apple flavors. Crisp, with a gentle creamy 90 has firm and dry tannins, a powerful structure to go with finish. Select Wines. —R.V. the wood aging and black plum flavor. It has pepper, Dürnberg 2011 Altes Kreuz Traminer abv: 13.5% Price: $30 spice and toast notes, with layers of acidity. The finish is (Niederösterreich). Very perfumed, this is a 87 very dry and firm. Screwcap. Magellan Wine Imports. spicy Traminer with an amount of sweetness. The wine Szigeti NV Brut (Oster- —R.V. is ripe and rounded, with dominant tropical fruit. The reichischer Sekt). Clean, fruity and spicy, 86 abv: 14% Price: $NA this has flavors of green apple and white plum. The wine

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 ed. This will need aging over five years. Glass stopper. acidity. This opulent wine should age for many years. ST. LAURENT Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V. Screwcap. Vin Divino. —R.V. Johanneshof Reinisch 2007 Ried Holzs- abv: 13% Price: $55 abv: 6% Price: $NA/375 ml 91 pur Grande Reserve St. Laurent (Ther- menregion). Judging by the success of this wine, St. Gunter Triebaumer 2009 Weite Welt (Bur- Türk 2010 Grüner Veltliner Eiswein (Nie- Laurent seems to be this winery’s signature grape. It 91 genland). Initially wood dominated, this then 90 derösterreich). Harvested in December, this is big, bold and packed with tannins as well as dense reveals mint, dark chocolate and black currant flavors. marries opulent flavors of honey and orange marmalade fruit. It’s a solid- and dark-textured wine. Not yet ready An impressive Bordeaux-style blend that’s concentrated with intense acidity. Ready to drink in its youth, but it’s to drink, this is worth aging for a few more years. Circo while retaining the correct sense of structure and acid- likely to age for many years. Screwcap. Niche Import Vino. Cellar Selection. —R.V. ity. It needs aging. Screwcap. Magellan Wine Imports. Company. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $90 —R.V. abv: 9.5% Price: $46/375 ml abv: 14% Price: $NA Johanneshof Reinisch 2009 St. Laurent Pratsch 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Ice 89 (Thermenregion). This is a structured wine, Wieninger 2009 Wiener Trilogie (Vienna). 88 Wine (Niederösterreich). Icewine from with a dry character, ripe fruit and firm acidity. It has a 90 This is a rich success. It has concentration, spice Cabernet Sauvignon is pretty rare. The grape’s dark pig- dry core that needs more aging to bring out its potential and juicy fruits as well as layered tannins, acidity and a ment lends the wine no more than a hint of pink in the richness. Circo Vino. —R.V. dark, brooding structure. For aging over several years. gold color. On the palate, the tannins do show, along abv: 13% Price: $20 Screwcap. Winebow. —R.V. with a note of honey and acidity. It’s unusual, but it abv: 13% Price: $30 works. Screwcap Winesellers Ltd. —R.V. Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2009 St. Lau- abv: 10.5% Price: $50/375 ml 87 rent (Burgenland). Warm and juicy, this has Gunter Triebaumer 2009 Red (Burgen- a typical rustic edge. It’s packed with plum and dark 89 land). This is a firm blend that brings out Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2010 Beere- prune flavors, with a rounded and soft mouthfeel that’s more the black currant flavor and tannic structure of 87 nauslese (Burgenland). Tawny in color, this layered with attractive acidity. Glass stopper. Winebow. the Cabernet, more so than the spice of Blaufränkisch. is a blend of Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch. It is rich with —R.V. The wine has an austere edge, with a mineral charac- intense acidity and a fruity character. With its orange abv: 12.5% Price: $37 ter and a taut aftertaste. Screwcap. Magellan Wine Im- peel flavor, it is both sweet and very crisp. Screwcap. ports. —R.V. Winebow. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $17/375 ml ZWEIGELT Johanneshof Reinisch 2010 Pinot Noir Johanneshof Reinisch 2011 Rotgipfler Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2009 Zweigelt 87 (Thermenregion). Soft and raspberry-fla- 86 Auslese (Thermenregion). Brown sugar and 89 (Burgenland). This is a fruity and ripe wine, vored, this has an earthy note and jammy texture. It dark treacle flavors dominate this rich, sweet wine. With with delicious, forward flavors of blackberry and sweet has tannins that are buried firmly in the sweet fruit and its opulent texture, this is for sipping. Screwcap. Circo plum. It has a mineral texture, with balanced acidity acidity. Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V. Vino. —R.V. that gives it a very accessible and ripe finish. Winebow. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 7.5% Price: $NA/375 ml —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2010 Red 85 (Austria). A blend of Austrian red varieties, SOUTH AFRICA Johanneshof Reinisch 2010 Zweigelt this is soft, light and fruity. It has flavors of red fruit and 88 (Thermenregion). Fruity and juicy, with all of spice from wood aging. With its attractive acidity, this is CHENIN BLANC the black fruit flavors of Zweigelt. It’s soft, ripe and at- ready to drink. Screwcap. Winebow. —R.V. tractively forward. With its acidity, the wine could age, abv: 12.5% Price: $17 Beaumont 2010 Hope Marguerite Chen- but its fruitiness makes it ready to drink now. Screwcap. 92 in Blanc (Bot River). This is a stunning and Circo Vino. —R.V. Höpler 2009 Rosenberg Pinot Noir (Bur- cellar-worthy Chenin that exhibits superb balance and abv: 13% Price: $18 85 genland). With a combination of jammy red layers of flavor. At first it’s nutty and toasty on the nose, plums, berry fruits and a farmyard edginess, this is ripe, with notes of grilled red apple, orange rind and honey- Forstreiter 2009 Zvy-Gelt Zweigelt (Nie- warm-climate Pinot Noir. Its texture has some tannin, dew providing a solid fruit core. Threads of mineral and 86 derösterreich). This is light, fruity and spicy, but it’s mostly soft and rounded. For aging over 3–5 a soft fynbos character weave through the palate. Peach with a crisp edge of acidity as well as a soft texture. years. USA Wine Imports. —R.V. pit and sweet spice flavors grace the long, evolving fin- Ready to drink. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, abv: 14.5% Price: $NA ish. wine@34south. —L.B. Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $28 abv: 13% Price: $NA DESSERT WINES DeMorgenzon 2010 Chenin Blanc (Stel- Winzer Krems 2011 Kellermeister Privat lenbosch). A beautifully balanced and attrac- Gunter Triebaumer 2009 Ruster Aus- 92 85 Zweigelt (Niederösterreich). This is a cool- tive wine that’s delicious now but should hold well for bruch Welschriesling (Burgenland). climate Zweigelt, with a spicy, juicy fruit character and 92 This another five years. Herbal fynbos aromas infuse the light tannins. The red fruit and green herb flavors are is full of botrytis influence, yet is it lighter and fresh- peach, melon and ripe fig core while accents of soft layered with acidity. Total Wine & More. —R.V. er than some other Burgenland sweet wines. It leaves toast and nuttiness add depth. The medium-weight abv: 13.5% Price: $18 a feeling of lemon acidity to go with the honey- and mouth, framed by sweet, tropical-fruit flavored acidity, flower-scented finish. Screwcap. Magellan Wine Im- leads seamlessly onto the long and evolving finish. Cape ports. —R.V. Classics. —L.B. 12.5% Price: $NA/375 ml OTHER RED WINES abv: abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2009 Panno- Domäne Wachau 2010 Kellerberg Ries- Jean Daneel 2010 Signature Chenin 92 bile (Burgenland). At this stage, the wine ling Trockenbeerenauslese (Wachau). 91 Blanc (Western Cape). For full review see shows its wood aging. But with the rich black-currant Fully-botrytized grapes were harvested in December 92 flavor, the oak will eventually integrate to make a seri- page 6. for this liquorous, smooth wine. Aromas of orange peel abv: 14% Price: $28 ous, dark-fruited wine. It’s textured, dry and concentrat- and wild-flower honey come together with the intense

WineMag.com | 63 de Trafford 2009 Chenin Blanc (Stellen- grape as well as a sense of terroir. Soft herbal and min- on the nose and mouth of this wine, but it’s support- 91 bosch). An elegant and refined Chenin that eral accent the clean, fruity core. Green pear, melon ed by ripe fruit aromas and flavors of red apple flesh, shows superb balance and the potential to age graceful- rind and a hint of peach pit unfold on the palate and guava and quince. It’s lush and mouthfilling, but there’s ly for another five years, at least. Lush and rich, this has follow through to the long, slightly spiced finish. Per- enough acidity to keep it from feeling overdone or flab- a smooth texture and a round but lifted palate. Aromas fectly drinkable now, but will cellar nicely for another by. Finishes clean with spiced tropical-fruit notes. Bou- and flavors of baked apple and toast are layered with 3-5 years. Indigo Wine Group. —L.B. tique Wine Collection. —L.B. sweet citrus and honeyed richness. The long, strong fin- abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $35 ish leaves sultry sweet spice and nutty accents behind. Boutique Wine Collection. —L.B. Rudera 2009 Platinum Chenin Blanc (El- Franschhoek Cellar 2011 Le Cotte Mill abv: 15% Price: $29 90 gin). There’s great richness to the nose, with 88 Chenin Blanc (Western Cape). Honey and a seriously decadent and robust apple-pie aroma. The minor toast notes mingle with the red apple, mango and Morgenhof 2010 Estate Chenin Blanc (Si- palate shows a bit more balance and restraint, with ripe peach aromas and flavors. Easy-drinking and fruit-for- 91 monsberg-Stellenbosch). A stunning wine, flavors of fig and melon fleshing out the creamy texture ward, the palate is bright and lively, with pineapple-core with great balance and layers of flavor. Baked apple, but staying bright thanks to lifting acidity. The evolving acidity that lingers on the finish. Drink now. Cape Wine melon, honeysuckle and delicate fynbos notes dance finish transitions from fruit to spice and finally ends on a Ventures. —L.B. on the nose and palate, with a toasty thread that ties citrus pith flavor. DRG Imports. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 it all together. A peach-pit nuttiness remains through- abv: 14% Price: $30 out the long finish. Delicious now, but should age nicely Jardin 2011 Barrel Fermented Chenin through 2015. Terry Seitz. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. Vins d’Orrance 2010 Kama Chenin Blanc 88 Blanc (Stellenbosch). This barrel-ferment- abv: 14% Price: $19 90 (Western Cape). A full-flavored and ripe se- ed Chenin shows well-integrated oak, with hints of soft lection, with decadent scents of sweet spice, whole va- baking spice to the melon and green-fig fruit core. A Remhoogte 2010 Honeybunch Reserve nilla bean and peanut skin that give depth to the ripe slightly creamy texture fills the mouth, with a seductive 91 Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). A gorgeous, pear and melon fruit. There’s a tangy lift to the palate, toasty accent staying through the medium-length finish. single-vineyard Chenin Blanc that shows great com- as flavors of white cranberry and lemon zest keep the World Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B. plexity and balance. The bouquet is initially seductive mouthfeel fresh. A honeyed almond accent unfolds on abv: 14% Price: $16 and oaky, but it subsides with time to integrate with the the close. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —L.B. ripe melon, mango and yellow peach scents. Developed abv: 13.5% Price: $33 Landskroon 2011 Dry Chenin Blanc and slightly honeyed, the palate is lush and round. Al- 88 (Paarl). For full review see page 12. Best Buy. mond, honeysuckle and soft sweet spice flavors stay Beaumont 2011 Chenin Blanc (Walker abv: 13% Price: $11 through the long close. Tasty now, but should age nicely 89 Bay). There’s a great freshness to this Chen- through 2015. Terry Seitz. —L.B. in, with upfront, juicy notes of clementine, Granny Leopard Frog NV Spellbinding Chen- abv: 14.5% Price: $39 Smith apples and green melon rinds. The light and re- 88 in Blanc (Stellenbosch). This limited re- freshing palate transitions into a bright, mouthwater- lease selection is big and flavorful upfront, with asser- Simonsig 2010 Avec Chêne Chenin ing finish, with accents of pineapple-flavored acidity. tive aromas of sweet spice, clementine, tropical fruit 91 Blanc (Stellenbosch). Seductive and for- wine@34south. —L.B. and blanched almonds. A fleshy pear flavor leads the ward, the Avec Chêne (with wood) boasts intense abv: 12.5% Price: $17 round, mouth-filling palate, followed by a lengthy aromas of vanilla, butter and cream that frame the finish laced with notes of hazelnut toast and sweet spice. superripe peach and guava fruits. A touch of honey and Land of Hope 2010 Reserve Chenin Ready to drink now. Vincenti Imports and Distribution sweet spice add depth to the round, creamy-textured 89 Blanc (Stellenbosch). Flavorful and harmo- LLC. —L.B. palate. Rich but not overdone, with a sweet orange oil nious, seductive notes of soft toast and walnut shell add abv: 13% Price: $31 lift to the long, evolving finish. Drink 2013-2015. Quint- dimension to the honeydew, red apple and orange zest essential Wines. —L.B. notes. Medium weight, with good acidity and a lasting Mulderbosch 2011 Chenin Blanc (West- abv: 14% Price: $35 finish, this is balanced and approachable now, with all of 88 ern Cape). Young and fresh, this Chenin the elements working together. World Premiere Wines shows the stuffing to hold for another couple of years Bellingham 2011 The Bernard Series LLC. —L.B. thanks to firm, tight acidity and a solid fruit core of pear, 90 Limited Release Old Vine Chenin Blanc abv: 13% Price: $24 melon, guava and lime rind. The mouthfeel is round, (Coastal Region). Made with grapes sourced from but the palate isn’t heavy. An attractive hint of sweet 40-year-old bush vines, this Chenin boasts savory herb Spice Route 2010 Chenin Blanc (Swart- spice unfolds on the finish. Cape Classics. —L.B. notes alongside the creamy peach, fig and sweet lime 89 land). There’s a strong herbal backbone to the abv: 13.5% Price: $15 fruit. The medium-weight palate shows well-integrated core of this wine, surrounded by fleshy notes of mel- oak notes that complement the earthy, herbal character. on and white peach. The earthy notes mix with a lime Raats Family 2011 Original Unwooded The texture is somewhat nervy now, but this should re- rind freshness on the palate, with a nice tropical fruit 88 Chenin Blanc (Coastal Region). This wine ally start to shine from 2014 on. Cape Wine Ventures. flavor that stays well into the close. Drink now. Vineyard shows character and layers of flavor in its straightfor- —L.B. Brands. —L.B. ward yet elegant approach. A mineral thread stitches abv: 14% Price: $50 abv: 14% Price: $18 together the ripe fruit notes of white melon, yellow ap- ple, pear and Key lime. Medium weight, with a bit of Remhoogte 2010 Chenin Blanc (Stellen- Vinum Africa 2010 Chenin Blanc (Stel- a nervy feel right now, give this another year to really 90 bosch). This dense, full-flavored Chenin ex- 89 lenbosch). Strong oak-driven aromas of toast- shine. Cape Classics. —L.B. udes ripe fruit aromas and flavors of red apple flesh, ed brioche, vanilla cream and sweet spice dominate the abv: 13% Price: $15 wood-grilled peach and sweet orange oil. The mouth- nose. The lush, creamy palate is filled with more of the feel is round but not fat, with good acidity and a spicy same, but is supported by peach and mushy pear fruit Radford Dale 2010 Renaissance Chenin but clean finish. Drink now–2014. Terry Seitz. —L.B. flavors. A decadent choice that’s a good match for salm- 88 Blanc (Stellenbosch). Open and seductive, abv: 13.5% Price: $27 on or rich seafood. World Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B. this has upfront notes of oak backed by moderate red abv: 13.5% Price: $15 apple, pear and faint herb accents. Medium weight, Reyneke 2010 Organic Grapes Chenin with a flinty streak, the palate is bright and mouthwater- 90 Blanc (Stellenbosch). There’s a natural es- Wildekrans 2009 Barrel Selection Chen- sence to this wine, exhibiting the best qualities of the 89 in Blanc (Bot River). The oak is pronounced

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 ing, closing on a toasty, orange rind flavor. World Pre- to this wine, with forward aromas and flavors of vanil- sensation. An easy choice for drinking now. Z Wines miere Wines LLC. —L.B. la bean, honeyed peach and spiced guava. The round USA. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $35 and mouthfilling texture complements the rich fruit fla- abv: 13% Price: $11 vors, and the finish is long and sweet-spice driven. Terry Boschendal 2011 Chenin Blanc (Coastal Seitz. —L.B. Six Hats 2011 Chenin Blanc (Western 87 Region). This is fresh and vibrant, with aromas abv: 14.5% Price: $26 86 Cape). This is light, bright and easy, with clean and flavors of apple, melon and orange citrus. Medium notes of Granny Smith apple, pear, and a hint of fresh weight, with a mouthwatering zip to the finish, pair this Six Hats 2010 Chenin Blanc (Western grass. The tart palate is sharp but refreshing, with a with grilled fish, chicken or summer salads. Drink now. 87 Cape). The bouquet opens with peppy aromas medium-length, mouthwatering finish. Boutique Wine Cape Wine Ventures. —L.B. of sweet clementine juice, white peach and a soft sa- Collection. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $15 line accent. The palate is fresh and crisp, with the green abv: 12.5% Price: $10 melon and lime zest flavors taking center stage and lin- Cape View 2011 Chenin Blanc (Stellen- gering well into the finish. Drink now. Boutique Wine Spier 2011 Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). 87 bosch). A glimmer of toast and honey add Collection. Best Buy. —L.B. 86 A great value wine that’s ready to drink now. depth to the green fig, apple and underripe peach abv: 13% Price: $10 This vibrant and aromatic selection boasts scents of or- center of this wine. Fresh and zippy on the palate, the ange blossom, white peach and fresh honeydew. The vibrant fruit and sweet citrus flavors carry through to 3000 BC 2009 Chenin Blanc (Stellen- palate is fresh and lively with a crisp and mouthwatering the mouthwatering finish. Drink up. Knauth & Visser 86 bosch). Pear, apple and lime lead on the nose finish. Indigo Wine Group. Best Buy. —L.B. LLC. Best Buy. —L.B. of this wine, with a secondary glimmer of flint. Rich but abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 not overdone, the palate is fresh, with ripe fruit flavors and lively acidity. A peach pit accent unfolds on the fin- Stonewalker 2010 Chenin Blanc (West- Dornier 2010 The Pirate of Cocoa Hill ish; drink now. Knauth & Visser LLC. Best Buy. —L.B. 86 ern Cape). For ten bucks, this is an attractive 87 Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). Apple skin, abv: 13.5% Price: $10 and crowd-pleasing Chenin that boasts forward notes of orange rind and clove spice lead on the bouquet, while baked apple, melon, sweet orange and a hint of savory opulent flavors of popcorn and baked apple fill the me- Bain’s Way 2011 Chenin Blanc (Wel- herb. The balanced acidity ensures that the ripe flavors dium-weight palate. Despite the rich notes throughout, 86 lington). Lively aromatics and fresh fruit are don’t feel too heavy on the close. Cape Wine Ventures. there’s a nice freshness, with a clean, softly spiced finish. coupled with a bright, mouthwatering texture and a re- Best Buy. —L.B. Drink now. Worthwhile Wine Company. —L.B. freshing finish. White peach, strawberry hull and mel- abv: 13% Price: $10 abv: 13% Price: $13 on rind form the fruity core of this wine, with assertive lemon-lime citrus flavors infusing the zippy finish. Wine Van Loveren 2011 Chenin No. 5 Chen- False Bay 2010 Chenin Blanc (Western Sources. Best Buy. —L.B. 86 in Blanc (Robertson). A refreshing and ap- 87 Cape). A forward and fruity wine, with red ap- abv: 14% Price: $11 proachable wine, with forward notes of green plum, ple flesh, melon and tropical fruit aromas and flavors plantain, Granny Smith apple and lime on the nose and that are laced with just a hint of oak. The medium- Essay 2011 Chenin Blanc (Western palate. There’s a slight roundness to the midpalate, but weight mouth is juicy and clean, and the finish brisk and 86 Cape). With 10% Viognier added to this Chen- a vibrant twang lifts the finish. Z Wines USA. Best Buy. refreshing. USA Wine West. —L.B. in, there is a forward, earthy character to this wine, like —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $13 a mix of honeysuckle and citrus-scented fynbos. The abv: 12.5% Price: $11 medium-weight palate shows melon and tropical fruit Ken Forrester 2011 Petit Chenin Blanc flavors while a lemon-lime accent freshens up the close. Wildekrans 2011 Chenin Blanc (Bot Riv- 87 (Western Cape). A fresh and fruity wine Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B. 86 er). Dainty floral aromatics mingle with the that’s ready to drink now. This has attractive aromas abv: 13.5% Price: $8 fresh scents of white peach and melon rind. Medium and flavors of green apple and lime followed by a clean, weight, this has good zip on the palate that carries mouthwatering finish. There’s a soft herbal streak that Fleur Du Cap 2011 Bergkelder Selection through to the finish. Lively lime and green plum fla- adds depth to the nose and mouth. Cape Classics. Best 86 Chenin Blanc (Western Cape). Although vors abound. Boutique Wine Collection. —L.B. Buy. —L.B. only 10% of this wine was aged in oak, you can definite- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 ly pick up on some of the woody accents—like vanilla and faint toast—that spice up core of green apple flesh Winery of Good Hope 2011 Bush Vine MAN Vintners 2011 Chenin Blanc (Coast- and melon rind. Medium bodied and balanced, a sweet 86 Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). This wine 87 al Region). This is dainty and pretty, with sol- spice accent lingers nicely through the finish. Maisons shows good balance between the lively acidity and ripe id floral aromas of peony and orange blossom that lift Marques & Domaines USA. Best Buy. —L.B. notes of red apple flesh, pear and orange oil. The round the pear and hard peach fruit backbone. Vibrant acidity abv: 13.5% Price: $10 mouthfeel of ripe fruit flavors are lifted on the finish by keeps the palate fresh and the finish clean and mouth- a tangy, green plum and lime zest accent. Drink now. watering. Drink now. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. La Capra Presented by Fairview 2010 World Premiere Wines LLC. —L.B. —L.B. 86 Chenin Blanc (Western Cape). Pear, white abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 13.5% Price: $11 melon rind and faint guava notes grace the bouquet of this fresh and inviting wine. The ripe, round mouthfeel Frisky Zebras NV Sultry Chenin Blanc MAN Vintners 2011 Cuvée V Chenin is balanced and approachable, with a refreshing lime- 85 (Western Cape). A nice selection for poolside 87 Blanc (Coastal Region). Cuvée V, MAN’s zest infused finish. Drink now. Vineyard Brands. Best entertaining, this bright and accessible Chenin Blanc homage to the wines of Vouvray, is an attractive and Buy. —L.B. offers attractive aromas and flavors of guava, melon and semisweet-style Chenin Blanc that offers rich aromas abv: 13.5% Price: $11 orange marmalade that are balanced by vibrant acidi- of peach, lightly baked apple and tropical fruit. A slight ty. Ripe and flavorful without being overdone. Vincenti prickle from the bright acidity dances on the palate and Landskroon 2011 Bush Camp The Sun- Imports and Distribution LLC. Best Buy. —L.B. keeps the wine from feeling too sweet or heavy. Drink 86 downer Chenin Blanc (Paarl). An off-dry abv: 13.5% Price: $10 now. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B. Chenin, with lush notes of peach, red apple and sweet abv: 12.5% Price: $11 lime. There are soft hints of sweet grass and spice that Van Loveren 2011 Five’s Reserve Chen- unfold on the bouquet and on the finish. Vibrant acid- 85 in Blanc (Robertson). Good intensity of Post House 2010 Chenin Blanc (Stellen- ity keeps the flavors fresh and leaves a lingering tingling fruit aromas and flavors are matched with a light, easy 87 bosch). There’s an assertive oaky presence mouthfeel and clean finish. Aromas of guava, mango,

WineMag.com | 65 yellow peach and sweet pineapple flood the nose and anced; it can be enjoyed now or cellared for up to ten creaminess, making it easy to drink now. International palate. Drink now. Z Wine Company. —L.B. years. Boutique Wine Collection. —L.B. Vines, Inc. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $14 abv: 13% Price: $50/375 ml abv: 13.5% Price: $60

De Meye 2011 Chenin Blanc (Stellen- Ken Forrester 2009 T Noble Late Harvest Earthworks 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 84 bosch). Opens light and easy, with scents of 92 Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). A stunning 90 (Barossa Valley). This Cabernet is built green apple flesh, lemon rind and soft herb. A tart, and inviting dessert wine that exhibits the superb bal- for current consumption, boasting a savory, complex nervy streak overwhelms the mouth, with flavors of ance that Chenin Blanc can lend to the style. Honeyed blend of meat and herb elements nicely balanced by white currant and citrus pith. wine@34south. —L.B. peach and apricot notes abound, with spicy accents of just enough dark plum fruit. The tannins are soft to the abv: 12.5% Price: $12 ginger, clove-spiked orange and toast. The mouth is lush point of creaminess, letting just a bit of warmth show and slightly viscous, but the racy acidity provides good through on the lingering finish. Drink now–2016. Ne- cut. This ends with a long, spice-driven finish. Delicious gociants USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. WHITE BLENDS now, but it should age for another five years. Cape Clas- abv: 14.5% Price: $17 Sijnn 2010 White Chenin Blanc-Viognier sics. —L.B. Leeuwin Estate 2007 Prelude Vineyards (Malgas). This blend of 57% Chenin Blanc abv: 12.5% Price: $55 90 Cabernet Merlot (Margaret River). Hints and 43% Viognier is opulent and forward. Rich scents 90 Rudera 2008 Noble Late Harvest Chenin of smoked meat and cedary oak mark the nose, nicely of baked apple, clove-spiked orange, honeysuckle and Blanc (Stellenbosch). This wine starts off accenting the cassis and cherry fruit. The flavors follow hazelnut crisp dance on the nose and mouth, but the 90 with an enticing honeycomb and baked apple aroma, suit, picking up hints of vanilla, while the texture is lush palate remains lifted with fresh acidity and a saline note. followed by secondary accents of baking spice and or- without going all soft and creamy. Fresh berry tea notes Accents of spice and toast remain through the long ange zest. The fully textured mouth is loaded with dried linger on the finish. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. close. A gorgeous wine now, but it should age beauti- peach and apricot flavors, followed by a nice citrus abv: 13.5% Price: $29 fully through 2015. Boutique Wine Collection. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 zip that adds spring to the long finish. DRG Imports. —L.B. Vasse Felix 2007 Heytesbury Cabernet Blend (Margaret River). Mullineux 2010 White Blend (Swartland). abv: 12.5% Price: $27/375 ml 90 This blend of Cab- ernet Sauvignon (72%), Malbec (15%) and Petit Ver- This Chenin-based blend—with 10% Clairette 90 dot (13%) still seems very youthful and fresh. The cassis Blanc and 10% Viognier—offers great richness and a AUSTRALIA fruit is relatively simple and primary, accented only by lush texture. Notes of beeswax and brioche add depth hints of vanilla and mint until the finish, when some cof- to the orange oil, pear, melon and honeysuckle aromas fee notes creep in. It’s full bodied and heavily extracted, and flavors. The medium weight mouth offers a fresh CABERNETS & BLENDS yet the tannins remain velvety from start to finish. Ne- lemony citrus and green plum tartness, keeping the pal- Hazyblur 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon gociants USA, Inc. —J.C. ate clean and vibrant. Drink now–2014. Kysela Père et 92 (Kangaroo Island). From the relatively un- abv: 14.5% Price: $75 Fils. —L.B. known GI of Kangaroo Island, this is a full-bodied, rea- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 sonably structured Cabernet that looks to have a good Plantagenet 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon 10 years of evolution ahead of it. Right now, it’s still pri- (Mount Barker). Thokozani 2010 Chenin Blanc-Chardon- 89 Toasty oak frames dark, mary, with cassis and plum fruit framed by vanilla oak nay-Viognier White Blend (Wellington). earthy flavors in this Cabernet from Western Austra- 88 and a long, fruit-driven finish. Baum Wine Imports Inc. lia. Despite being medium to full in body, it turns crisp A blend of mostly Chenin Blanc, with 9% Chardonnay Editors’ Choice. —J.C. on the finish, an enjoyable contradiction highlighted by and 5% Viognier, this is a charming white with alluring abv: 15.5% Price: $30 tart plum notes and hints of tapenade. Drink now–2018. notes of orange blossom and peony that mingle with the Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. white peach and mango fruit. There’s a nice vibrancy on Langmeil 2008 Blacksmith Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $29 the palate, with fresh tropical-fruit flavors that hang on 91 Sauvignon (Barossa). Full bodied and rich- to the finish. Cahoots. —L.B. ly textured, this is a terrific value in Barossa Cabernet. West Cape Howe 2008 Book Ends Caber- abv: 13.5% Price: $17 And it’s no simple fruity concoction, either. Instead, it 89 net Sauvignon (Great Southern). This is a delivers complex notes of grilled meat, coffee and black Beyerskloof 2011 Chenin Blanc-Pinotage good value in the plush superripe style of Cabernet that olive layered easily over a base of dark plums. Finishes seems to be popular these days. The velvety mouthfeel White Blend (Coastal Region). An interest- 86 long, velvety and mouthwatering; drink now–2020. Ne- easily carries bold vanilla and plum flavors over the pal- ing blend of 80% Chenin Blanc and 20% Pinotage, this gociants USA, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. ate, partly balanced by a savory-spicy element. Drink white is fresh and fruity, with an enticing mixture of abv: 14.5% Price: $30 now. The Country Vintner. —J.C. citrusy flowers and small red berries. There’s a touch abv: 14% Price: $22 of earthiness on the palate, with a nice smoothness its Leeuwin Estate 2007 Art Series Cabernet medium weight. So crisp and alive now; drink up. Total 91 Sauvignon (Margaret River). A textbook ex- D’Arenberg 2008 The Coppermine Road Beverage Solution. Best Buy. —L.B. ample of Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon (McLaren Vale). abv: 13% Price: $11 86 Art Series offers perfumed cassis fruit just tinged with There’s a slightly scorched character to this wine that mint and tobacco. There’s ample body yet classic Cab- I had a tough time getting past. There’s solid plummy DESSERT WINES ernet restraint, so it’s not jammy or overdone. The tan- fruit, but also recurring hints of freshly sawn lumber nins are supple enough to make it enjoyable now, yet and burnt coffee. It’s full bodied, with plenty of astrin- de Trafford 2008 Chenin sufficient to see it through 2018, at least. Old Bridge gent tannins, so it might age past this current stage, and 93 Blanc (Stellenbosch). This luminous and Cellars. —J.C. it’s possible this rating could look stingy in a few years. unique Chenin Blanc straw wine is a real stunner, show- abv: 14% Price: $45 Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. ing an upfront and approachable character as well as abv: 14.5% Price: $65 hidden layers of nuanced herbs and the potential to de- Wirra Wirra 2007 Dead Ringer Cabernet velop additional complexities with time. Heady notes 91 Sauvignon (McLaren Vale). A full-bodied, of toasted brioche, dried apricot, gingered orange peel ripe Cabernet, with plenty of cassis fruit shored up PINOT NOIR and baking spice abound throughout, with great rich- by vanilla and cedar. There’s just enough mint for it to Yering Station 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir ness and a lush texture in the mouth. Intense but bal- be a pleasant accent rather than an annoying distrac- (Yarra Valley). tion, while the tannins are supple almost to the point of 90 Like all of the Yering Station

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 Reserves, this one shows a healthy whack of new oak, it finishes with appropriately silky tannins. Try it with cherries and herbs. Clean and crisp on the finish. Yabby but there’s plenty of ripe cherry fruit to support the va- roast chicken. Treasury Wine Estates. —J.C. Lake Vineyard, Inc. —J.C. nilla and cedar nuances. It’s medium bodied, plump yet abv: 14% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $16 suave, with a long finish that echoes vanilla and spice. Drink now–2019. Rathbone Wine Group. —J.C. Giant Steps 2010 Sexton Vineyard Pinot abv: 13.8% Price: $65 87 Noir (Yarra Valley). A supple, easygoing Pi- SYRAH not Noir, with modest weight in the mouth but assertive Clarendon Hills 2008 Astralis Syrah Brokenwood 2010 Pinot Noir (Beech- notes of cola, earth and cherries. The aromas are slight- (Clarendon). A step up from the other Syra- worth). A nicely textured if somewhat oaky Pi- ly perfumed and confected, but the flavors are sturdier 94 89 hs in the 2008 Clarendon Hills’ lineup, the Astralis is not Noir, with cherry fruit that just sufficient to support and more savory in nature. Drink now. Old Bridge Cel- firmly tannic and should be long-lived. The masses of the plush coating of vanilla and cedar. Long and layered lars. —J.C. rich black-cherry fruit are amply framed by cedary oak but oaky on the finish. Drink now and over the next cou- abv: 13% Price: $35 without ever being overwhelmed, with the fruit persist- ple of years. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. ing on the long finish. Try around 2018. E & J Gallo. abv: 14% Price: $22 Josef Chromy 2010 Pepik Pinot Noir Cellar Selection. —J.C. (Tasmania). This wine shows much less oak 87 abv: 14.5% Price: $225 Yering Station 2010 Pinot Noir (Yarra Val- influence than Pepik’s Zdar bottling, but in this case ley). 89 This is very close in quality to the winery’s that’s a good thing. The fruit is herbal and perhaps a Clarendon Hills 2008 Moritz Syrah (Clar- reserve bottling, boasting fully ripe cherry-berry fruit bit tomatoey, but there’s enough cherry to hold things endon). Of all the Clarendon Hills 2008 Syra- made complex by hints of vanilla and button mushroom. together, with smoke and sous-bois notes for complex- 93 hs, the Moritz probably offers the best value. It’s plum- It’s supple, silky and lingering on the finish, marked by ity. It’s a light- to medium-bodied wine that finishes on my, dark and intense, with savory overtones of meat and lingering notes of vanilla and berry. Drink now. Rath- a crisp note. Drink now. Bob Bofman Selections. —J.C. spice that complement the wine’s full body and creamy bone Wine Group. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $24 texture. The long finish echoes with hints of coffee, abv: 13% Price: $20 meat and plummy fruit. Drink now–2020. E & J Gallo. Josef Chromy 2006 Zdar Pinot Noir (Tas- Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Nugan Family Estates 2010 Vision Pinot mania). Lavish vanilla and cedar nearly take 87 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 88 Noir (King Valley). This is the rarest of all over this wine, leaving just enough dark, plummy fruit finds: a high-quality Pinot Noir at an everyday price. It’s to peek through, yet the wine remains true to its varietal Clarendon Hills 2008 Brookman Syrah medium bodied and crisp, with ample complexity that roots in its silky mouthfeel. A bitter coffee note sneaks (Clarendon). The 2008 Brookman Syrah is blends smoke, cedar, cola and black cherry notes. With in on the finish. Seems ready to drink. Bob Bofman Se- 92 a rich, plush, luxurious wine. Aromas of cedar, vanilla its reasonably firm finish, it might be interesting to try lections. —J.C. and black cherry set the stage, while the palate features in another year or two, although it’s ready to drink now. abv: 14.5% Price: $47 intense dark fruit layered with hints of olive and cof- Southern Starz, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. fee. It’s full bodied and creamy in texture, showing just a abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Plantagenet 2010 Omrah Pinot Noir touch of warmth on the supple finish. Drink now–2020. (Great Southern). Despite ample alcohol lev- 87 E & J Gallo. —J.C. Sticks 2010 Pinot Noir (Yarra Valley). This els and soft tannins, this wine comes across as tart and abv: 14.5% Price: $75 88 is a restrained, even delicate, Pinot Noir, with crisp on the palate, its cola, cherry and vanilla flavors nuanced aromas of underbrush and barely ripe cher- ending on a lemony note. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. Clarendon Hills 2008 Liandra Syrah ries. It’s elegantly proportioned in the mouth, with a abv: 14.3% Price: $20 (Clarendon). The 2008 Liandra comes across silky texture and pretty cherry fruit. At 10,000 cases 91 as slightly more savory than the other Clarendon Hills produced, this should be relatively easy to find even De Bortoli 2010 Gulf Station Pinot Noir bottlings, displaying pungent notes of coffee, black ol- Stateside. Winebow. —J.C. (Yarra Valley). Suitably light in body and el- 86 ives, scorched earth and cracked pepper. The tannins abv: 13% Price: $20 egant, this is a pretty, varietally correct Pinot Noir, with are supple, giving this medium- to full-bodied wine an fruity notes of cranberry and tart cherry accented by easy-drinking smoothness. Drink now–2020. E & J Gal- Yabby Lake Vineyard 2008 Pinot Noir shadings of earth and brown sugar. It’s silky on the fin- lo. —J.C. (Mornington Peninsula). A silky, easy-drink- ish, with delicate hints of coffee. Drink now. De Bortoli 88 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 ing Pinot Noir, with all of the expected complexity and Wines USA Inc. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $20 tender texture expected in a very good example. The Clarendon Hills 2008 Baker’s Gully Syr- cherry and vanilla notes offer enough leafy, mush- ah (Clarendon). The Baker’s Gully Syrah is roomy, earthy complexity to satisfy. Ready to drink now Innocent Bystander 2010 Pinot Noir (Yar- 89 the entry-level offering from Clarendon Hills, but it re- and over the next few years. Yabby Lake Vineyard, Inc. ra Valley). A lightweight but charming Pinot 86 mains a very good wine. It’s medium to full in weight, —J.C. Noir, with pretty cherry fruit accented by notes of dried with some alcoholic warmth and hints of slightly abv: 14% Price: $50 bracken and ground cinnamon. It’s soft, silky and im- raisined fruit, yet charms for its velvety-soft tannins and mediately accessible. Drink now. Old Bridge Cellars. aromas of chocolate and baking spices. Drink now. E & Yarra Yering 2008 Pinot Noir (Yarra Val- —J.C. J Gallo. —J.C. ley). This wine’s dark root beer and cola notes abv: 13% Price: $20 88 abv: 14.5% Price: $50 surround a core of plummy fruit. There’s ample body and richness, supported by soft tannins and crisp acids, Cool Woods 2010 Pinot Noir (Eden Val- but the overall sense is one of immediate approachabil- 84 ley). This crisp, medium-bodied Pinot Noir ity. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. features tart cherry and cranberry fruit alongside hints abv: 14.5% Price: $95 of tomato leaf. Drink now. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. abv: 14% Price: $13 Coldstream Hills 2008 Pinot Noir (Yarra 87 Valley). A medium-bodied, slightly chunky Cooralook 2010 Pinot Noir (Strathbo- Pinot Noir, the 2008 from Coldstream Hills displays 84 gie Ranges). Lean, tart and slightly ungener- smoky, earthy notes layered over attractive black-cherry ous on the palate, but the flavors are authentically Pi- fruit. Even if it lacks of bit of elegance to its mouthfeel, not Noir, ranging from earth and root vegetables to pie

WineMag.com | 67 SPIRITS KY). For a warm and comforting sipper on a chilly eve- ning, this is a fine way to go. This honey-hued Bourbon CELEBRATING NEW AMERICAN WHISKEYS has a big, powerful, sweet caramel aroma, and a rich mix of buttery, oaky and toasty flavors. Consider it as a his month’s spirits category, New American distillers who are leading the Alternative dessert pairing. abv: 42.5% Price: $50 Whiskeys, was defined as any new American- Whiskey movement (or, “Alt Whiskey”). This made whiskey released within the past couple of T fast-growing group of passionate craft distillers Jefferson’s Straight Rye Whiskey (USA; years. And boy, was it exciting to see the submissions Castle Brands, New York, NY). Produced roll in. Clearly, this has been an exceedingly creative are experimenting with unusual techniques and 92 in Canada but bottled in Louisville, this 100% rye whis- time for the whiskey industry. grains, resulting in some fascinating whiskeys, key is aged 10 years. Deep gold color, vanilla and peach For example, American-made single malt from Corsair’s triple-smoked Bourbon to aroma, soft and full-bodied, this rye has a pleasing citric whiskeys are on the rise, with the most notable Charbay’s beer-spiked hopped whiskeys. brightness, lingering peachy and caramel notes with a example being the supersoft St. George Single They’re inspiring larger outfits to respond with smattering of cinnamon and clove. Would be great sa- Malt. Soon, we’ll have another: in March, the more innovation. vored with a chunk of ice, or mixed into a rye Manhat- Distilled Spirits Council of the United States Darek Bell, owner of the Corsair Distillery tan. abv: 47% Price: $40 gathered three premier Scotch distillers—John in Nashville, even recently published a how- Campbell of Laphroaig, Andy Cant of Cardhu, to book called Alt Whiskeys, for DIY types High West Whiskey Son of Bourye (USA; and Bill Lumsden of Glenmorangie—to distill who want to experiment by making Cannabis 92 High West Distillery, Park City, UT). It’s no and barrel a historic American single malt Moonshine or Chamomile Wheat Whiskey. exaggeration to say this well-balanced mix of bourbon “Craft distilling is still an infant,” Bell says. and rye provides the best of both worlds, combining from Scottish barley at the George Washington the sweetness of bourbon with the light spiciness of rye. Distillery in Mount Vernon, Virginia. “But it is poised to become an ‘enfant terrible.’ Fruitcake and dried fig on the finish add complexity. In the spirit of Independence Day, it also ” Don’t doubt it. abv: 46% Price: $40 seems appropriate to highlight the independent —Kara Newman Breaking & Entering Bourbon (USA; St. 91 George Spirits, Alameda, CA). The antith- Angels Envy Kentucky Straight Bourbon rye-like sparkle. A fine choice for Manhattans and other esis of single-barrel Bourbon, this whiskey is made from 98 Whiskey (USA; Louisville Distilling Com- Bourbon-based cocktails. 80 barrels of Kentucky Bourbon, individually selected pany, Crestwood, KY). A beautiful, mouthwatering abv: 49.5% Price: $37 and then blended in California. The end result is bright newcomer to the whiskey scene. Named for the “an- and pretty, a golden Bourbon with a light, fruity fra- gel’s share,” the portion that evaporates from the bar- Colonel E.H. Taylor, Jr., Single Barrel grance and touches of vanilla and honeysuckle, pack- rel during the aging process, this golden amber spirit is 94 Bourbon (USA; Sazerac Company, Frank- aged in a tall with an edgy label. finished in Port barrels, which explains those juicy red- fort, KY). No shrinking violet here; this is a big, power- abv: 43% Price: $36 fruit notes that slide into the long finish. Look for or- ful Bourbon with a finish that just won’t quit. The hon- ange peel, vanilla and roasted nut flavors, too. ey-colored spirit has a sweet, heavy caramel aroma with Woodford Reserve Masters Collection: abv: 43.3% Price: $46 some deep, somber espresso notes. Look for rounded 91 Rare Rye Release Aged Cask Rye (USA; burnt-orange flavor and lots of cinnamon and nutmeg Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). Part of a two-bot- Woodford Reserve Masters Collection: on the dry, elongated finish. Temper the alcohol sting tle set that also includes New Cask Rye, the aged cask 96 Rare Rye Release New Cask Rye (USA; with ice water—it’s 100 proof, after all. History buffs yields a soft, light rye variation, with a golden color and Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). Part of a 2-bottle will love the old-school style of the bottle and label. mild aroma. Expect creamy vanilla, a touch of lemon, set that also includes Aged Cask Rye, the New Cask ver- abv: 50% Price: $70 and a clean finish, braced by a bit of brisk alcohol at the sion benefits from extra color and flavor soaked up from end. This is made for classic cocktails. the barrel, and results in a truly outstanding rye speci- Michter’s US*1 Unblended American abv: 46.2% Price: $100/2 375-ml bottles men. Maple syrup color and heady caramel aroma with 94 Whiskey (USA; Michter’s Distillery, LLC, a faint whiff of burnt orange peel and brewed tea. The Louisville, KY). For full review see page 11. Bowman Brothers Virginia Straight Bour- flavor profile veers toward the dry side, showing cara- abv: 41.7% Price: $43 90 bon Whiskey (USA; Sazerac Company, mel interwoven with cocoa, leather and espresso notes, Frankfort, KY). Though it needs a little coaxing, this with just the right amount of spicy bite at the end. Corsair Nashville Bourbon (USA; Corsair small-batch Bourbon is a fitting tribute to the four Bow- abv: 46.2% Price: $100/2 375-ml bottles 93 Artisan Distillery, Nashville, TN). From a man brothers, Virginia militia officers in the Revolution- small distillery that is leading the Alt Whiskey move- ary War. Give it some time and a splash of ice water, and Old Forester Birthday Bourbon (USA; ment comes this crazy-good, complex whiskey made the aromas and flavors open up. Look for sweet notes of 95 Brown-Forman, Louisville, KY). This is a from corn, smoked barley, rye and wheat. This spirit is almond, cocoa and caramel, plus the clove and nutmeg complex, rich Bourbon, with notes of brown sugar and front-loaded with big, sweet caramel, but without miss- notes that build on the finish. Best Buy. toffee, , dried figs, and hazelnut, lightened with a ing a beat it segues into dark chocolate, espresso, clove, abv: 45% Price: $30 soft hint of fresh apples. It’s a little boozy on the nose, as cigar tobacco and every dry flavor under the sun. Plop in might be expected at nearly 100 proof, but stands up to the biggest ice cube you can find and enjoy. Bulleit Rye Whiskey (USA; Diageo Amer- ice or branch water for mellow, flavorful sipping. abv: 50% Price: $45 90 icas, Plainfield IL).This amber whiskey is abv: 49% Price: $50 made with 95% rye, which puts it on the very high-rye Clyde May’s Whiskey (USA; Spirits Ac- side of the spectrum, and gives it a spicy zip. In some Smooth Ambler Old Scout Straight Bour- 93 quisitions, Dallas, TX). For full review see ways, this evokes an ultradry version of an orange li- 95 bon Whiskey (USA; Smooth Ambler Spir- page 11. Best Buy. queur, with juicy orange notes dusted with black pep- its, Maxwelton, WV). This amber-hued, six-year-old abv: 42.5% Price: $29 per, clove, nutmeg and a faint hoppy note. Best Buy. Bourbon has a bright, honeyed, slightly peachy scent. abv: 45% Price: $28 On the palate, it has a sweet creaminess, very smooth Woodford Reserve Double Oaked Bour- and light, finishing dry and lovely with just a bit of spicy 93 bon (USA; Brown-Forman, Louisville,

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 Corsair Ryemageddon (USA: Corsair Ar- Wild Turkey 81 Kentucky Bourbon (USA; a smooth finish. It’s not that this product is bad—it’s 90 tisan Distillery, Nashville, TN). The name 89 Campari America, San Francisco, CA). not—but it’s not really whiskey, either. says it all: it’s bright and energetic, leaning toward riot- Aged 6–8 years in “alligator charred” oak barrels, this abv: 40% Price: $30 ous. The complex aroma includes apricots and lemon Bourbon has a sweet crème brûlée aroma, with a bit of peel mingled with sarsaparilla, honey, and vanilla. On fruity freshness behind it. Despite the sweet scent, it’s John B. Stetson Bourbon Whiskey (USA; the palate, vanilla dominates, sparked with baking spic- dry and bracing on the palate. This is a great light Bour- 85 Vision Wine & Spirits, Secaucus, NJ). es, black pepper and a creamy, citrusy note. It’s a little bon, perfect for mixing, and it would do well topped up Honey-colored with vibrant orange highlights, this hot straight up, but would be dynamite in a Sazerac or with ginger ale and a squeeze of fresh lime. Bourbon is aged at least four years. Give this spirit some other cocktail. abv: 40.5% Price: $20 time and space to breathe. The aroma has an almost abv: 46% Price: $45 gamy, meaty quality, laid over with vanilla, almond and Balcones True Blue Cask Strength Corn caramel. On the palate, almond flavors give way to a Paddleford Creek Bourbon Whiskey 88 Whisky (USA; Balcones Distilling, Waco, rather hot and brawny but long caramel finish that dries 90 (USA; W.J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, TX). This unique artisan whiskey from Texas is made to a pleasingly leathery tone. NY). This bright golden small-batch Bourbon would with roasted Hopi blue corn, then matured in lightly abv: 42% Price: $27 make for a top-notch whiskey sour, with its surpris- charred new American oak barrels. The result is bold ingly delicate fragrance. Its touches of lemon peel and vanilla, cream soda and brown sugar aromas, and a Early Times 354 Bourbon (USA; Brown- creamy vanilla, and smooth character make it one worth sweet profile with lots of toffee and orange peel. It’s de- 84 Forman, Louisville, KY). Surprisingly fruity, noting. Best Buy. licious, but a bit hot and rough, and some will find this with notes of apples and pears, and a caramel note that abv: 41.5% Price: $24 too strong altogether, even with significant dilution. accelerates into the finish. Despite a jarring resin note abv: 62.9% Price: $59 in the aroma, this is a decent mixer for cocktails, and Corsair Small Batch Triple Smoke Ameri- you’re not going to beat the price. 89 can Malt Whiskey (USA; Corsair Artisan Black Eagle Kentucky Straight Bourbon abv: 40% Price: $16 Distillery, Nashville, TN). A good local alternative 88 Whiskey (USA; W.J. Deutsch & Sons, for peaty Scotch-lovers, made with a unique blend of White Plains, NY). Golden and bright, this aromat- three batches of whiskeys smoked with cherry wood, ic Bourbon has an exceptionally fresh fragrance mixing beech wood and peat. Given some time to open up, a apples and lily of the valley with just a delicate touch of waft of smoke mingles with the fruity, malty scent. On vanilla and a faint minty tinge. Soft, creamy and light the palate, the smoke really builds, but manages to hit on the palate. the brakes before it overwhelms everything, fading into abv: 40% Price: $15 a burnt-orange, caramel finish. Pair with aged cheeses. abv: 40% Price: $45 High West Whiskey Double Rye (USA; 88 High West Distillery, Park City, UT). This Hancock’s President’s Reserve Sin- light and perky rye has a warm, soft baked-apple scent. 89 gle Barrel Bourbon Whiskey (USA; W.J. On the palate, look for citrus layered with lingering va- Deutsch & Sons, White Plains, NY). Despite the nilla, cinnamon and nutmeg. mild apple and chamomile tea scent, the flavor of this abv: 46% Price: $35 Kentucky small-batch Bourbon is surprisingly big. The honey notes really linger, and even amp up through the Balcones 1 Texas Single Malt Whisky finish into a crescendo of cinnamon and clove. 87 Special Release (USA; Balcones Distill- abv: 88.9% Price: $43 ing, Waco, TX). Finished in ex-Bourbon casks, this dark amber Texas single malt has a thick, syrupy scent, Smooth Ambler Yearling Bourbon (USA; evoking caramel and root beer. Although the alcohol 89 Smooth Ambler Spirits, Maxwelton, WV). level is palate-numbingly boozy, the flavors are inter- Aged 6 months, this small-batch wheated Bourbon is estingly complex and dry, showing cocoa, leather and a good choice for cocktails. Although a resiny note in espresso. the aroma overwhelms the ribbon of caramel, otherwise abv: 52.5% Price: $69 this bright amber spirit is warm and inviting. abv: 46% Price: $27/375 ml Charbay Whiskey Hop Flavored Whis- 86 key, Lot R-5. (USA; Charbay Distillers, St. George Single Malt Whiskey Lot 11 St. Helena, CA). A whiskey for beer-lovers: Distilled 89 (USA; St. George, Alameda, CA). This sun- from Racer 5 Beer, and aged in French Oak barrels. ny gold single malt feels so beautifully light and smooth, The spirit has a peppy scent of fresh apple and pear, it threatens to float right off the tongue. The fresh aro- plus touches of honey, pepper and smoke. On the pal- ma mixes honeysuckle, lychee, pineapple and vanilla. ate, it’s hot and astringent, though it mellows with plen- On the palate, a beer-like hoppy note plays against a bit ty of water to show a beer-like note, a wash of honey and of vanilla and hazelnut. Well balanced. a sprinkle of black pepper and cinnamon on the finish. abv: 43% Price: $70 abv: 49.5% Price: $75

Watkins Select Kentucky Straight Bour- Kansas Clean Distilled Spirit Whiskey 89 bon Whiskey (USA; W.J. Deutsch & Sons, 86 (USA; Fabulous American Beverages, White Plains, NY). This Bourbon has mellow finesse, Rochester, NY). Despite its odious hipsters-only ad from its warm, inviting honey and peaches aroma to el- campaign, there’s some merit to marketing this as an egant flavors that start toffee-like, then fade to leather alternative for whiskey-haters. Drink this blindfolded, and black tea notes. and you might swear it’s a coconut-flavored vodka. It’s abv: 40% Price: $20 nearly transparent, with just the faintest golden tinge, it smells like coconut and marshmallow, and it has a pro- nounced coconut cream flavor with a hint of vanilla and

WineMag.com | 69 BEER

pours a hazy, deep yellow color, with a solid off-white THE NEW WAVE OF FRUIT BEERS head that leaves nice lacing behind. Aromas and flavors of juicy apricots fill the nose and mouth, but vibrant t’s easy to steer clear of fruit beers once gium, where traditional lambics are king. Spon- sweet citrus and tart stone-fruit flavors keep the brew you’ve had one you didn’t fully enjoy. Wheth- taneously fermented and blended with fresh balanced and approachable. The mouthfeel is medium- er it was too fruity, too light, too tart or too fruit during secondary fermentation, these fruit- full and decadent, brimming with fruit flavors that are I fresh and inviting; a perfect companion to a summer sweet, it can be somewhat tricky to find your driven beers exhibit the best of the ingredient afternoon. personal Goldilocks… the fruit beer that’s just alongside tart wild-yeast flavors. They are also abv: 5.1% Price: $6/550 ml right for you. low in alcohol, which means you can enjoy as But there are more fantastic options than much as you want without too many serious side Samuel Adams Whitewater IPA (Ameri- ever before. Today, you can select from a wide effects. 89 can IPA; Boston Beer Co, MA). This wheat ale brewed with apricots is a playful take on the current array of styles, made with many different kinds Currently, one popular trend for fruit beers White IPA trend, with the addition of apricots being a of fruit and using assorted techniques. is to barrel-age them. The time spent in bar- nice complement to the assertive hop character and the Fruit beers are loosely defined. They can be rels can introduce wild organisms, resulting in spicy wheat-beer core. It’s medium bodied, with a crisp produced from a variety of base styles and are tart or funky characteristics, or can impart se- stone-fruit flavor on the palate that quickly transitions often categorized as such, instead of being la- ductive oak-driven notes like those of vanilla, into dried grass and orange peel on the finish. A good selection with heavily spiced chicken or pork dishes. beled simply as a fruit beer. Fresh fruit may be toast or baking spices. The complexity and food- abv: 5.8% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack used, and often provides some of the best exam- pairing ability of these brews make them high- ples, though many breweries do use extracts, syr- ly sought after selections, perfect for converting Samuel Smith Organic Strawberry Fruit ups or processed flavors instead. Typically, hops skeptics who dismiss fruit beers for lacking pow- 88 Ale (Fruit Beer; Samuel Smith’s Old Brewery (Tadcaster), England). Although this is are not a big presence, and alcohol usually aver- er or quality. made in the same style as the brewery’s Apricot Ale, it ages 5–7%. Prost! comes off with a sweeter profile thanks to aggressive Some of the best fruit beers come from Bel- —Lauren Buzzeo characteristics of strawberry jam and fruit-drink mix. The mouth is light and easy, a result of fairly high car- bonation, and the effervescence manages to keep the Dogfish Head (Fruit Beer/ spice, leather and softly toasted wood. The finish lingers sweet strawberry-syrup flavors that carry through to the 94 Saison Hybrid; Dogfish Head Craft Brew- endlessly, with pleasant cocoa and burnt sugar flavors. finish from coming off as too cloying. ery, DE). Sourcing from Alexandria Nicole Cellars in abv: 8.3% Price: $10/12 oz 4 pack abv: 5.1% Price: $6/550 ml Prosser, Washington, Dogfish Head added Pinot Gris must and botrytized Viognier must to a brew made Lindemans Pêche (Fruit Lambic; Brou- Shiner Ruby Redbird (Fruit Beer; Spoetzl from pils and wheat malts and fermented the mix with a 92 werij Lindemans, Belgium). Spontaneously 86 Brewery, TX). This easygoing lager is perfect Belgian yeast strain. The result is certain to satisfy even fermented with peaches added during the secondary for summer drinking, with its approachable sweet-cit- the most divided house, with brisk carbonation and a fermentation, this traditional Belgian fruit lambic is ev- rus character and accents of ginger spice. Lemon and clean malt core that’s lifted with sweet vinous character- erything you would expect from the style: a crisp but ruby grapefruit shine on the palate, with a clean fin- istics and botrytis accents of softly honeyed peach and somewhat sour drink loaded with peach aromas and fla- ish that fades fast. As long as you like grapefruit, the apricot. It finishes dry and spicy, with a slight acidic lift vors. The peachy core is intense but naturally so, avoid- light body, high carbonation and low alcohol make this to the close. Given the fairly high alcohol, this is a bottle ing any suggestion of artificiality. The palate is lively and a great summer session selection. to share. refreshing, ending on a long, mouthwatering finish. If abv: 4.01% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack abv: 9.0% Price: $13/750 ml the fruit is too intense, try making a beer cocktail by adding it to half a glass of your favorite wheat beer. Lindemans Framboise (Fruit Lambic; abv: 2.5% Price: $11/750 ml 93 Brouwerij Lindemans, Belgium). This widely adored, classic lambic remains one of the best. Uinta Crooked Line 19th Birthday Suit It’s remarkably easy to drink, with intense aromas and 92 Sour Cherry Ale (Fruit Beer; Uinta Brew- flavors of wild raspberries and berry preserves lifted ing, UT). This beer features great complexity and lay- by a refreshing sour note that balances the sweetness. ers of aromas and flavors. Assertive notes of vanilla and There is vibrancy to the palate, with framing acidity and lightly charred wood start the bouquet, while deeper a mouthwatering finish. This is a perfect summer sipper nosing reveals dainty scents of pink peonies and tea ros- thanks to its low alcohol and refreshing nature, and it es that accent the red cherry fruit. The carbonation is makes for a great dessert, alone or in an ice cream float. brisk and the texture is dry, complementing the sweet abv: 2.5% Price: $11/750 ml cherry flavors. There’s a hint of funkiness from wild yeasts. Notes from the time spent in wood are a bit for- 21st Amendment Insurrection Series ward right now, but with time should mellow and inte- 92 Monk’s Blood (Belgian-style Dark Ale; grate. With only 1,500 cases produced, grab what you 21st Amendment Brewery, MN). This dark ale can and throw it in the cellar until Uinta turns 20. pours a deep mahogany color, with a substantial head abv: 5.7% Price: $13/750 ml that falls fast and leaves a slight ring around the rim of the glass. The bouquet is intense and loaded with Samuel Smith Organic Apricot Fruit Ale aromas of various sweet spices—clove, cinnamon and 91 (Fruit Beer; Samuel Smith’s Old Brew- vanilla—alongside dried fruit accents of cherry, fig and ery (Tadcaster), England). Introduced in the U.S. date. The mouthfeel is full and lush, with a caramel in February 2012, Samuel Smith Organic Apricot is the malt backbone to support all of the earthy nuances of newest addition to the brewery’s organic line. The beer

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012