BUYING GUIDE JULY 2012 Chardonnay grape bunches ripening in the morning sun. 57 AUSTRIA 2 CALIFORNIA 63 SOUTH AFRICA 28 WASHINGTON 66 AUSTRALIA 35 OTHER NORTH AMERICA 68 SPIRITS 37 SPAIN 70 BEER 44 ITALY FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT 51 RHÔNE BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM 53 PROVENCE WineMag.com | 1 UNITED STATES SEARCHING FOR A PERFECT SUMMER WHITE s we get deeper into the summer season and the mercury climbs egon, Virginia and New York. With almost 150 Chardonnays reviewed for ever upward, we naturally turn to selections that offer a sense of this month’s Buying Guide, you’ll even discover selections from New Jer- A refreshment, trying desperately to beat the summer heat while still sey, Massachusetts, North Carolina and Ohio listed below. And with the quenching our thirst for good wine. While there are a plethora of options “drink local” mantra now being uttered from every corner of the world, available, made from countless varieties and produced all over the world, what better time to see what hidden gems lie in your own backyard. perhaps the most popular and patriotic selection is domestic Chardonnay. If you’re looking for something new to add to your summer white lineup, As California Editor Steve Heimoff describes in his “All-American we also reviewed over 50 South African Chenin Blancs this month to com- Chardonnay” feature on page 40, Americans have had a soft spot for this plement the tasting feature on page 52. If it’s been a while since you gave white variety for decades, although the relationship has been a somewhat this grape a try, then you’re in for a real surprise; the remarkable quality tumultuous, love-hate one. and diversity of this variety and the region that produces it so well will open But the tides have thankfully shifted yet again, and the ABC movement your eyes. And the best part? You won’t have to break the bank to splurge has now quieted down thanks to the skilled and controlled hands of qual- on some of the top-rated selections mentioned here. ity winemakers. Gone, or going, are the days of people declaring their dis- As always, though, be sure to check out our fully searchable database at like of the grape; we know now that the real key is identifying the style that buyingguide.winemag.com for thousands more reviews and recommen- suits your own personal preference. dations. While the main focus of the article is on California, there are beautiful Cheers! Chardonnays being produced in many states, including Washington, Or- —LAUREN BUZZEO CALIFORNIA Lynmar 2010 Monastery Chardonnay nearing 40 years of age, which may explain the concen- 94 (Russian River Valley). Lots of toasty new tration. —S.H. oak marks this Chardonnay, as well as bright, citrusy abv: 14.1% Price: $50 CHARDONNAY acidity. It’s young, vibrant and energetic, and undoubt- Freemark Abbey 2010 Chardonnay Failla 2010 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay edly complex. Beginning with flavors of Meyer lemons, (Howell Mountain). Marked by crisp, (Sonoma Coast). Shows classic, full-throttle apricots and limes, it evolves in the glass with flavors of 93 99 zingy acidity that gives the lemon and lime fruit a notes of tropical and citrus fruits, pears and sweet green minerals, white flowers and honey. This should last six mouthwatering tartness, this voluminous Chardonnay is apples, combined with strong minerality and complex years or so. —S.H. 14.2% $70 perfect for drinking now, as a cocktail or with rich shell- layers of buttered toast, honey and creamy lees. The de- abv: Price: fish dishes. It’s really elegantly constructed and stylish, a scription alone hardly does justice to the wine’s beauty. Matanzas Creek 2010 Journey Chardon- great restaurant wine. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. The acidity is perfect, the oak deftly applied, the finish nay (Sonoma County). Expensive, yes, but abv: 13.5% Price: $40 long and completely satisfying. Winemaker Ehren Jor- 94 very lovely and dramatic. Creamy and smooth in the dan suggests pairing it with simple fare like roast chick- mouth, this is perfectly perfectly dry, with rich notes La Crema 2009 Nine Barrel Chardonnay en and salted fingerling potatoes.Editors’ Choice. of honey, Mandarin oranges and sweet buttered toast, (Russian River Valley). For full review see —S.H. 93 girded with minerals. Shows control and precision. page 4. abv: 14.2% Price: $44 —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $75 Lynmar 2010 Susanna’s Vineyard Char- abv: 14.6% Price: $75 La Rochelle 2010 Ferrington Vineyard donnay (Russian River Valley). A splendid 96 Celani Family Vineyards 2009 Chardon- Chardonnay (Anderson Valley). For full Chardonnay, rich, vital and elegant, with so many layers 93 nay (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4. review see page 5. of interest. Framed by a cut of brilliant acidity, it evolves 93 abv: 14.2% Price: $40 abv: 14.6% Price: $65 with complex flavors of citrus and tropical fruits, miner- als, flowers and honey, then finishes long and savory in Darioush 2009 Signature Chardonnay Ojai 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard Char- a swirl of spices. Oak adds the perfect touch of buttered (Napa Valley). You can taste the oak and lees donnay (Santa Maria Valley). A beautiful toast, while the wine is a study in the creamy effect of 93 93 influence in this rich, full-bodied Chardonnay. With a Chardonnay, dry, silky and modest in alcohol. It’s rich in sur lie aging. It’s perfectly dry on the finish. —S.H. creamy mouthfeel, it gets serious on the midpalate, with oak-inspired tropical fruit, peach and Meyer lemon fruit abv: 14.5% Price: $50 flavors of buttery peach, orange and nectarine fruit. flavors, girded with a tangy minerality. Will be great Outstanding and elegant. —S.H. with a mushroom risotto or something lobster based. Lynmar 2010 Quail Hill Vineyard Char- abv: 14.5% Price: $43 Editors’ Choice. —S.H. donnay (Russian River Valley). A bone dry 95 abv: 13.5% Price: $28 wine that’s rich in steely minerals and wonderful acid- Donum Estate 2009 Estate Grown Char- ity. It offers the elegance and complexity of a great pre- donnay (Carneros). A very fine Chardonnay, Stonestreet 2010 Broken Road Chardon- mier cru, with tantalizing traces of sweet Meyer lemons, 93 bone dry and acidic, with a powerful streak of mineral- nay (Alexander Valley). For full review see limes and exotic spices. The oak is subtle, lending aro- 93 ity that makes it rather austere. Yet there are power- page 5. mas and flavors of buttered toast, while its time spent ful pineapple and orange flavors. It’s clearly elegant and abv: 14.5% Price: $40 on the lees contributes notes of sour cream. A fabulous complex, and tight enough to age for six or so years. success for this or any vintage. —S.H. The vines from which this Chardonnay was sourced are abv: 14.3% Price: $40 Continued on Page 14 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2012 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new- release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman Goldschmidt 2006 Plus Game Ranch Maison Bleue 2010 Gravière Upland in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, 98 Single Vineyard Selection Cabernet Sau- 96 Vineyard Mourvèdre-Syrah-Grenache Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor vignon (Oakville). The 2006 vintage was erratic, but (Snipes Mountain District). Clover, white pepper, Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Nick Goldschmidt has pulled a rabbit out of a hat with and a whiff of animal make this blend of 75% Mourvè- Rosa. this fabulously complex and rewarding 100% Cabernet. dre, 20% Syrah and 5% Grenache compelling now, but If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s It’s classic Oakville, dry, tannic and elegant, and the way it’s certainly a wine to cellar. The aromas move through initials appear following the note. When no initials appear the blackberry and black currant flavors marry the new a spectrum of flower, spice, fruit and animal. It already following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect oak is simply wonderful. The Game Ranch Vineyard has displays tremendous length and superb aging potential. the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits been source to some of Goldschmidt’s greatest Caber- Cellar Selection. —P.G. Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by nets over the past decade. This is one of those wines abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Lauren Buzzeo. that’s compelling to drink now, but should evolve over Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the next 10–15 years. —S.H. the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content abv: 14.5% Price: $150 cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.