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R M R ORN THE T AG E DY O F THE ATTE H .

CO PYRIG HT . 1910,

BY T H OMAS Y.

mber 1910 Published Septe ,

Second Editwn To TH E MEMO RY

A NCESTO RS

Wh o ea n the a n d a e , l vi g hills v ll ys o f e r n a e S e r a n d ro ed th i tiv witz l , c ss

the o ea n an d in 1 710 o rm ed c , f par t o f the first se ttlem en t o f W ha t was th en an u n bro ken wil

dern e bu t n o w kn o wn as ss , is

Lan a er Co un en n an a . c st ty, P sylv i

PREFA CE

HE first d raft of this book w as written T a t the requ est of the Editor of the Cha u ta u u an an d w as u Au q , p blished in the u 1 908 u r o f a r a u g st , , n mbe th t pe iodic l , nder the

A Rea di n Jou rn e throu h Swi tzerlan d . title , g y g It w as at the req u est of the present pu blisher th at these ar ticles were expanded into the form r in which they now appea . W h a tever q u alifica tions the au thor m ay or m a a fo r r h as y not h ve w iting the book , he one , at a a fo r a ra a r le st , deep love his ncest l f the a h as u l nd , which led him , not only to the st dy r bu t - r a of her histo y , to oft epe ted visits to the r pl aces m entioned herein . Long befo e the thou ght of writing the book w as su ggested him u r a to , he fo nd , not only enewed he lth an d strength among the snow- covered Alps bu t a themselves , m ny times since then , .

’ in o n e ro o m an d mid the din l ly s ,

f o n an d e I a e o ed to em O t w s citi s , h v w th ,

In o u r o f ea r n e en a o n ee h s w i ss , s s ti s sw t, PREFACE

Fe in the o o d a nd e a o n the eart lt bl , f lt l g h

An d a n e en n o m u rer min d p ssi g v i t y p , ” W ith tranq u il resto ratio n .

It is hoped tha t something of the same spirit m ay be com m u nicated to others by the r eading of this book .

W S Y N UNI RS I Y E LE A VE T ,

M mDLETOWN CONN . , T AB LE O F CONTENTS

C HAPT ER T H E L N AN D O P I . A D THE PE LE T H E MO N IN G O RY AND MO N II . U TA L THE U TAIN G LO OM T H E O U S KIR S O F MOUNT IN W O R III . T T THE A LD T H E BIR P F W I S LI Y IV. TH LA C E O S S BERT

B T V. ERN AN D I S ENVIRO NS T E B B VI . H ERNES E O ERLAN D

MO N IN S S . U S RAILRO AD s AN D W N VII TA PA E , NE IS

VIII . IN THE H EA RT O F THE ALPS M I IX . CHA ON X AN D ITS ENVIRO NS G ENEVA AN D ITS LAK E

ILLUSTRATIONS

The Tragedy o fthe Ma tterh o rn OPPO S ITE PAG E Map ofSwitzerl and The W il li am Te ll Ch ape l

Zti rich R i Lu rn e i t Mt. ce , w h ig The Lio n of Lu cerne

M il a s t. P t u Vitz n au Brun nen

The Axenstrasse

Bern and River Aar The Bernese Alps The Jun gfrau fro m I n terl aken The Lau terb ru nn en Valley Mo n ch an d Eiger The Marj ele n Se a The We tterh o rn an d the G rin de lwald G l aci er

i B rnard H o sp ce o fSt . e The Gemmi Pass The Rh o n e G l acier I LLUSTRATIONS

OPPOS ITE

’ The Dev il s Bridge

G o ard Ro ad The St. tth Lake Co mo Simplo n Vill age an d Pass Zerm a tt an d the Ma tterh o rn

Thé e as St . o dul P s

B an Cham o n ix wi th Mt. l c Cro ssin g the Mer de G l ace The G ran ds Mulets The Pi n nacles Th e Ch apeau Lake Gen ev a an d Den t d u Mid i The Castle o f Chil l o n Mo n treu x

witz er la n d ° Its cen er S S y , H isto r y a n d L iter a ry

A ssocia tio n s

CHAPTER I

THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE

ACH Of the countries Of Eu rope u su ally visited by the Amer ica n tou rist h as a W r pecu li ar ch a r m of its own . e a e drawn to England by its histor ical a n d literary associ a tions ; to France by its Gothic c a the d rals u u a an d art r a , pict resq e c stles , all the t e s ures of its greatest city ; to Italy by the strange contrast affor ded by its wor ld-ru ins in the midst of a natu r e forever you ng ; an d to Ger u a a a an d a many by its q int medi ev l cities , th t “ R n a voice of the old hine , telli g the etern l a a r legend of de d gener tions , the c imes , exploits , u an d a r grande r , dec dence of the old robbe knights whose castles cr own the heights on both ” sides of the historic strea m .

“ It is h ard for u s to say which of these we u love the most . Yet there is one co ntry , which THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE

W e h ave not as yet mentioned an d which has won the persona l affection of a v ast m u ltitu de a l a a a of tr ve lers to a gre ter extent , perh ps , th n

an . E r ar a h as y other ve y ye Switzerl nd , which rightly been c alled by Leslie Stephen the a r u Eu m Pl yg o nd of rope , is beco ing more Th e a an d more popu l ar . tide of tr vel long a o u a n d r a g filled p the lower zones , now th e t a r u u rau ens to re ch to the ve y s mmit of the J ngf , R a a Monte os , or even Mont Bl nc itself , the E highest of all the mou nta ins of Eu rope . very o u can m u a a l a where y see the o nt in r i ro d , with u u a m a its c rio sly sh ped loco otive , cr wling like a a u er en fly over the gr ssy slopes , or p the p p dicu l ar r sides of the precipices , its sh ill whistle echoing a long the n arrow valleys or sou nd ing fa int an d far from the dista nt mou ntain to Of all the reasons for this u niq u e popu l arity of Switzer l and there are three which especi ally m : an d deserve ention its history , its legends , its scenery . Th e history of Switzerl and is exceedingly m r u a . a inte esting , tho gh co plic ted In the gr d u al m a u develop ent of free rep blic , it resembles a a o u r a to cert in extent own l nd , and exempli a a E a fies better , perh ps , even th n ngl nd her 0 THE LAND AND THE PEO P LE

f r h as sel , how F eedom slowly broadened down ,

Fro m re ed en t r en p c t o p eced t .

The earliest inh abita nts of the cou ntry he r m a n d a longed to prehisto ic ti es , the only tr ces left of them to-d ay are the few rem n ants of an d u u a bones tensils , fo nd chiefly in the sh llow par t of the var io u s l akes ; fo r they were wh a t

- is known as La ke d wellers . At th a t tim e the co u ntry w as one u n broken wilder ness of track r a a r less fo ests , inh bited by wild be sts , bea s , u a r a n d b ff loes , wolves , wild boa , even the T r m gigantic m ammoth . o p otect the selves r m a n d r m m en f o these othe ene ies , the of the u r a r Stone Age b ilt thei vill ges on piles , st etch o u t r a r La a Neuf ing ove the w te of kes Genev ,

Zii r ich a n d r . chatel , , othe s When the light of history d awns fo r the m r ra ar first ti e ove Sw itze l nd we see these e ly , Lapland - like inh abita nts gone ; a n d in their a u r u C pl ce , the whole co nt y occ pied by eltic r u u tribes , g o ped together nder the common

am . T are a a ra n e of Helvetii hey w rlike ce , a a u u r an d living by me ns of fishing , gric lt e , - a o r u r rr cattle r ising , pl nde ing the te itory of m their neighbou rs . In co mon with the related 3 THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE races in Fra nce and Great Britain they had i D - i ar i the r ruid Priests , the r B ds and the r u a o ak a J dges , and worshipped the s cred , u u a worship not nstained by h m n s acrifice . T i - a a i hose who in the r school d ys , h ve to led throu gh the com mentaries of Caes ar m ay yet r O r e to rix D ivik o remember the sto y of g and , of the tremendou s army of Helvetians th a t sou ght new homes in th e 'su n n ier l ands to the u an d u u Cae a so th , how J li s s r met them , drove t a an d a r a a u hu n hem b ck , fte sl ying ne rly fo r r u a m an d i d d ed tho s nd men , wo en , ch l ren , r u a i ed ced the l nd of the Helvetii , the Sw tzer a of -d a i a R a l nd to y, to the cond tion of om n province . For fou r h u ndred years the process of Rom an civilisation went on ; the whole face of the cou ntry was ch anged ; new cities were a a al est blished ; amphithe tres , temples , and p r u a o f can aces we e b ilt , remn nts which be still seen ; m agn ificent roads led over the u a a a mo nt in p sses from It ly , some of them being continu ed as far as France an d the R i E h ne in the north . verywhere Roman u R art an d R a a c stoms , oman , om n l ws were t u an d — a all in rod ced , most import nt of the old p agan religion of the Celts now gave C way to hristi anity .

THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE

It would take u s far o u t of o u r way to dis cuss even in the most gener al ter ms the su bse u r r a ra q ent histo y of Switze l nd , to t ce its u u ar u ru r an d vicissit des nder its v io s le s , its a r Bu for tunes in pe ce and wa . t ru nning like an ever increasing stream all throu gh its r m r u a histo y is the develop ent of a f ee , rep blic n form of govern ment . r a All Switze l nd , like the rest of western Eu w as u a C a rope , incl ded in the re lm of h rle a bu t an d u r m gne ; when he died , his nwo thy , descendants were u nable to hold together r a r r a w as the g e t empi e he left , Switze l nd too m divided an d tor n by conflicting cl a i ants . The u a r a r fe d l system p ev iled he e likewise , h with its lords a n d vassals an d serfs . T e wester n p ar t of the cou ntry belonged to Bu r u d an d a g n y , the middle northern p rt was u D u a under the r le of the ke of the Alem nni , W hile the highest au thority still was con sidere d as belonging to the Emperor him self . Th e whole l and w as divided into districts u ru w or co nties , the lers of which were kno n e e as Gau graf n o r Landgraf n . Among these u o r ar w as r a Radbo t co nts e ls a ce t in , who , u in order to keep his s bjects better in check , 6 THE LAND AND THE PEO P LE

u in ar 1 020 W il l elsber b ilt , the ye , on the p g far m ru a a a not fro B gg, new c stle c lled the a Hapsbu rg . From this little castle d tes the r - am u am a u r wo ld f o s f ily of the H psb gs , which u all Eu r an d u once r led ope , still occ pies the Th r im peri al th rone of A u stri a . e sto y of the am a u r u rise of this f ily is pict esq e one , how a rr r little by little it dded to its te ito ies , how Ru 1273 am m r r dolf, in , bec e e pe o of the Holy R m Em a r u am u all o an pire , p o d , bitio s , m m an r a co pelling , at whose co on tion at Aix la- C a hapelle , the Bishop of Bale is s id to “ a r o u t No w a m h ve c ied , , l ighty God , settle m r thyself fir ly on thy th one on high , else this

Ru dolf will c ast thee therefrom . In the m eantim e arou nd the Lake of Ln r u u r a h ad cerne , th ee q iet , obsc e c ntons been m Uri a n d r a for ed , , Schwyz , Unte w lden , a u bu t r u an d inhabited by r de , simple , p o d independent r ace of herdsmen a n d hu nters . T was a ru Ur i h ad his especi lly t e of , which received m any r ights an d pr ivileges from the E r a Ru an d w as mperor befo e the dvent of dolf , u nder the m ild ru le of the Abbess of Frau mii n ster . Twice a year Sh e sent a Reichsvogt into a r u the v lley , whe e nder the open sky , in the presence of the assembled popu lation of free THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE

men , courts were held , taxes gathered , and other business done . When the H apsbu rgs came to the im peri al w as a power , this condition of things ch nged , a n d constant encroachments an d oppression threa tened to reduce the primi tive com mu ni a a ties to st te of real servitu de . Althou gh di d n as as Ru l a t they nothi g long do f lived , yet

a 1 291 as a r the news of his de th in , if the m tte a a had been pl nned long before , deleg tes a an d from the three c ntons , Uri , Schwyz , a an d u u Unterw lden , met together , on A g st 1291 a first , , swore to wh t is known as the

first Perpetu a l Pact . T i n a h s venerable document , the fou d tion i m i a an of Sw ss freedo , is worthy of be ng re d d all in i respected by men , who see H story , as a a u Hegel did , the ever dv ncing conscio sness “ of freedom in the min ds of m ank ind In ” the name of God , Amen ; i t begins , Honor and the pu blic wea l are promoted when leagu es are conclu ded for the pr oper estab

lishm en t u an d . T r of q iet peace herefo e, all men a a know , th t the people of the v lley an d l of Uri , the democracy of the va ley of w an d m u Sch yz , the com nity of the Moun tain eers L a a of the ower V lley (Unterw lden) , 8 T HE LAND AND THE P EOPLE

m a a e in r a seeing the lice of the g , orde th t they m a n d i may better defend the selves the r own , r r r m and bette p ese ve the in proper condition , h ave promised in good fa ith to assist each r aid r u an d othe with , with eve y co nsel , every a r an d a f vo , with person goods , within the v lleys u m a n d a n a a and witho t , with ight m i , g inst an d all wh o m a n u an one , y i flict pon y one of an m a o r u r them y violence , olest tion inj y , or may plot an y evil aga inst their persons or An r a m m . d a u goods in eve y c se , e ch co nity has r u r r n eces p omised to s cco the othe , when a at as far as s ry , its own expense , needed in a a a - r order to withst nd the tt cks of evil doe s , an d to avenge inj u r ies ; to this end they h ave a a u u sworn bodily o th to keep this witho t g ile , and to renew by these presents the a ncient a m a r form of the leagu e . Yet in su ch nne a r m an a ra a th t eve y , ccording to his nk , sh ll an d r a s obey serve his overlo d , it behooves ” An a a . d him then fter few brief details , in which they pr om ised to help one another a r a gainst every foe , to ecognise no str nger as r u u arr am m thei j dge , to settle q els ong the a Of ar ra an d selves by me ns bit tors , to con tribu te both men an d m oney to the common “ au u as : c se , the doc ment ends follows the 9 THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE

w a u above ritten st t tes , decreed for the com an d a a u mon weal he lth , sh ll end re forever , ” God willing . From this small beginning h as come the nf r - n great Swiss Co ede acy of to d ay. O e by ar a one, as the ye s went by , the other c ntons u Lu 1332 Zii rich joined the nion , cerne in , , 1351 a u an d Zu 1352 in , Gl r s g in , Bern in r a a 1353 . After the gloriou s victo ies g inst u r u u r an d u the B g ndians , Freib g Soloth rn m a a w ar joined the After the Sw bi n , which finally freed Switzerl and from the Ger m an E an d Schaflh au sen mpire , Bale and Appenzell (15 13) joined the Confedera ’ Na a 1 803 tion . Under poleon s medi tion in ,

a . a i ar au T u the c ntons of St G ll , Gr sons , A g , h r

au T n an d au a . O g , ici o , V d , were dded nly a R u after the f ll of the Helvetian ep blic , a R u child of the French evol tion , did Geneva , N u a u o u t e fchatel , and V lais ro nd the whole nu mber .

Bu t all this did not h appen peacefu lly . The progress of Swiss freedom is marked by u an d u r terrible str ggles glorio s victo ies , which m ade the Swiss soldiers feared an d admired a by all the world . T here was the b ttle of N 1 5 1 3 15 Morgarten , ovember , , in which the 10 THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE soldiers of the Infant repu blic received the a Of a n d u b ptism blood , in which the pro d u a r nobles of A stri , who fo med the flower of r r m a a a an . the hostile fo ces , we e sl in lmost to The circ u m stances leading u p to this fa mou s ba ttle were as follows : in 13 13 the Em

ero r a n d Em r p Henry died , the whole pi e was split into two par ts over the q u estion of elect in g his su ccessor ; an d when D u ke Lu dwig

r a D u r Of of Bava i , the enemy of ke F ederick u r am w ar u r A st ia was chosen , the fl es of b st l h o u t over a l the l a nd . T e inh abit ants of Canton Schwyz took sides with D u ke Lu dwig a a m g inst the Hou se of A u stri a . A t the sa e tim e the old feu d between them and the C E r o u t a . loister of insiedeln , b oke ag in In - a a a mid winter , they tt cked the mon stery , u a n d an d a pl ndered it, took c rried to Schwyz r - m as prisone s the noble born onks , who were all loyal su bjects of the hou se of A u stria . It was to avenge all these ins u lts th a t the you ng D u ke Leopold gathered together a notable army Of horse and foot and m arched

‘ a . T o O tow rd Schwyz ppose this invasion , bu t a a arm u u Schwyz had sm ll y , fo r h ndred of whom were fu rnished by their fr iends in u r Uri , and three h nd ed by those in Unter 1 1 THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE walden . At this time there lived in Schwyz an r r war Ru l R old soldie , expe ienced in , do f eding von Bibereck . He a dvised the Swiss to select som e position where the arm y cou ld not take

a a u . adv nt ge of their n mbers Morgarten , on L Ae er i w as a ake g chosen , where the ro d was a hemmed in by the l ke on one side , and by n steep declivities on the others . O these ar r Ca r heights the my of the th ee ntons , thi teen u in u m a h ndred n ber , were posted . It is s id th a t D u ke Leopold fu ll of pr ide an d confidence as r a he looked over the nks of his army , asked the cou rt fool how his w ar-pl an pleased “ ’ him a r : , to which the fool nswe ed I m not u a pleased a t all . Yo h ve discu ssed a long m u r a bu t ti e how you co ld ente the l nd , not at all how you cou ld get o u t. r N 15 And so on the mo ning of ovember , 13 15 u a r r , the A stri n t oops ma ched on , the bril lian tl a a a a a y dressed c v lry g ily pr ncing head . Th e a a an d a ro d bec me more more n rrow , till r u l only two or three ho semen co d ride abreast . All at once a shower of ston es and blocks of u wood fell pon them from the heights , and looking u p they saw the enemy ru shing down m The u a a t the with wild shou ts . A stri ns were startled an d crowded b ack u pon those who

19.

THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE

with the ou tlying nobility . And so Cou nt Ru dolf of Nid au ga thered together all the an d a u a w as enemies of Bern , powerf l rmy formed— among the leaders being the D u ke a u : of A u stria . Bern m de overt res of peace

u . a u they were ref sed A sm ll gro p of men , a u a r m a c ref lly chosen , g r isoned the s ll town Lau at u an d of pen , the confl ence of the Sense T a a the Saane . heir le der Joh nn von B u ben r u his f an d berg , swo e to give p li e property for C u u l the defence of Lau pen . o nt R do f von Er lach w as chosen leader of the m ain army of B u ern , which , strengthened by recr its from the r C a a u three Fo est ntons , mo nted to something m m over five thou sand en . They arched o u t

a Lau a i w as. tow rd pen , where the little g rr son O m an d d r nly the old men , wo en chil ren we e he a a a r r left in Ber n . T b ttle beg n ; t fi st the e was a m ovem ent of retrea t on the p ar t of the r Ru l E a a his Be nese ; when do f von rl ch , m king own way throu gh the ra nks cried o u t: Wh ere are u a now the yo ng men , who , d ily in Bern , a dorned with flowers , were the first at dance an d feast ? Come forw ard an d be as a solid ” W wa ll arou nd the b anner of you r city . ith ” u r ! E a ! lo d c ies of Ho , for Bern Ho , for rl ch u a t they r shed forw rd wi h irresistible force ,

14! THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE and in a shor t tim e the enem y were pu t to

. The d a a a n d flight next y, l den with booty arr a u r a r c ying loft the conq e ed b nne s , they r a u ente ed the city , mid the sho ts and rejoicing of all . r a a As al e dy s id , this victory was the begin r ning of the p osperity of Ber n . Little by u rr u rr r w as a little the s o nding te ito y dded to it , r a r m a a n d r r a r t e ties we e de , ights we e g ined f om r ar n the Empero Ch les IV a d his followers . T r w as a a m a he e lso the b ttle of Se p ch , u 9 1 386 r W l J ly , , where A nold von inke ried a at a r a m m a of Unterw lden , c itic l o ent , is s id to h a ve won the day fo r his com p a nions at r a the sacr ifice of his own life . He e gain we h ave the old feu d between the confedera tes T m w as Lu r an d A u str ia . h is ti e it ce ne which wa s the object of the a ttack of the A u stri an Th e D u L h ad a a army . ke eopold been h r ssed a nu mber of times by the inh abitants of the

an d a a ar a . The city , fin lly open w rf e beg n

u a a ar arm u r D ke r ised l ge y , b ned the town W au an d a a wa u of illis , dv nced by y of S rsee The r and Sem p ach on to Lu cerne . a my of the Confederacy w as enc amped on the heights The u r a a m a above Semp ach . A st i n r y dev s a u tated the crops bo t the little city , and sar 15 THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE

icall a a cast y dem nded p y for the harvesters . O n u 9 1386 a J ly , , the decisive b ttle was

u . Th e su n was air fo ght hot , the close , not Th a clou d w as in the sky . e nobles of the u a arm u r a A stri n y , enc mbe ed by their he vy ar u r had m u r m mo , dis o nted f o their horses , an d had arr anged them selves in a long ba ttle ar line , with sixteen foot spe s held before m D r ru the . own f om the heights shed the an d u m a a Swiss , fl ng the selves g inst this wall a an d a a of solid spears . Ag in g in they tried in vain to break the serr ied ra nks . Many of u them l ay bleeding on the gro nd . Already the A u str ians began to m ake a fl anking m m ovem ent in order to enclose the little ar y . The d a m m u y see ed lost to the , when s ddenly a a u ra r ar gig ntic fig re sp ng fo w d , Arnold von “ W r a o u t inkel ied of Unterw lden , crying , I a a a o u a a will m ke ro d for y , de r friends ; c re fo r i an d r a my w fe child en So s ying , he gathered together a nu mber of spears in his a a an d l rms , pressed them to h is bre st , fe l ‘ with them to the grou nd . Spu rred on by

1 th - m Mo n m r Cf. e we ll kno wn poe m o fJ a es tgo e y “ Make wa fo r l er he r ed y ib ty, c i ,

Made wa fo r i e r and d ed . y l b ty, i Swift to the breach his co mrades fly “ Make wa fo r er e cr y lib ty, th y y, 16 THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE

a this act of heroism , his comp nions rushed u a forward thro gh the opening m de , striking to the grou nd the Au str i an soldiers right an d

a r i r was . left , and in sho t t me the victo y won The u a a u noblest yo th fell de d , the H psb rgs , Hallw ls Aarber s an d the von y , von g , many “ T L r o u t others . hen eopold himself c ied , So a r h as m et a m ny a noble lo d his de th for me , I will with them also die as a brave m an ” u . S a at sho ld And he too fell l in , the early - r age of thirty fou r yea s . This im portant b attle spr ead the fame of r far the Swiss soldie s and wide , beyond the frontiers of Switzer land itself . Fin ally there were the glorious victories a a C a r u r u g inst h les the Bold of B g ndy , a a a 2 1 476 the b ttle of Gr ndson , M rch , , when a a rich booty fell into the h nds of the Swiss ,

r a r u ar ho ses , fl gs , tents , p ecio s stones , g ments , an d stu ffs of silver an d gold ; the battle of

u r 22 n d u a a M ten , the of J ne of the s me ye r ;

An d ro the u r an al an dar th ugh A st i ph x t, ‘ As ru shed the spears thro ugh Arno ld s heart W i e n an a neo u as hi s a l h l i st t s f l , Rou ruin ani a ered all t, , p c, sc tt An earthq uake co uld not overthro w

A ci ty with a su rer blow . Thus Switzerland again was free Thus D eath made way for Liberty! 17 THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE

a Na r 5 1477 and the b ttle of ncy , Janua y , , C r was n where ha les himself slain , havi g as u the old rhyme p ts it , lost

Bei G ran d on das G ut s ,

Bei Mu r en d en Mut t ,

i n Be Na cy d as Blu t .

G ran d o n ea Mur en oura e at Nan (At s his w lth , t his c g , cy his life .)

Inextricably mingled with this history are the legends which form so peculiar a featu re

- of the ann als of Switzerland . Even to d ay the peasants of the Canton Schwyz and the Hasli Valley will tell yo u that they are the Of a a a descendants b nd of Swedes who , m ny u a o a cent ries g , driven by f mine , left their a far an d a native l nd in the north , m de their wa Of u y over the whole length Germany , ntil they fin ally reached the seclu ded valleys where their descend ants are still su pposed to live . This old tradition is fou nd often repeated a a Of a as a in the nn ls the l nd , in writing by H emm erlin 1436—1446 Felix , written ; in the chronicle of Pu n tin er of Uri the

Bernese Eu logiu s K ibu rger and others . Wi lli am Tell m au a Schiller , in his , akes St ff cher give the story of this mythical immigr a tion 18 THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE in the following lines : List to the story told T r was by shepherds i n the olden time . he e a far the a the a mighty r ce , m l nd toward mid su n — su flerin r a fam night , g f om de rth and was a a n d t m an in e . A lot dr wn every ten h was forced to leave the land of his fathers . t a an d m And so , wi h l mentations , men wo en , a m m ar u a great r y of them , oved tow d the so th , fighting their w ay throu gh the l a nds of the m u r - Ger ans , ntil they reached the fo est covered 0 mou ntains of Switzerl and . 8 they came to a l\Iu o tta the w ild v lley , where now the flows th rou gh green m eadows . Here they fou nd no trace of h u m ankind . O nly one h u t stood r an d r sat a m a n lonely on the sho e , the e Th a and plied the tra de of ferrym an . e l ke was u n o r w as t r ro gh , he e any chance to cross at it . And so they looked more closely the a u m — saw l nd in which they fo nd the selves , r r the iches of the forest trees , the sp ings of a an d as h fresh w ter , it seemed if t ey were in r thei own n ative l and . And so they resolved u th e a to settle down , and they b ilt ncient vil l age of Schwyz ; and h ad m any a d ay of h ard in La ship clearing the l and . ter when the u a u m u pop l tion grew too n ero s , they emi gr ated over th e Schwarzen Berg into Weiss 19 THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE

n al land , where behi d the everlasting w ls of

a ak u . ice , nother people spe s in other tong es And so they fou nded Stanz am K ern w ald an d ” a Altdorf in the v lley of the Reu ss . Am ong the n am es dearest to the hearts Of the Swiss are those of Arnold W in kelried and W e u W il li a m Tell . have j st seen how the former heroicall y s acrificed his life for his

- country at Sem pach . T o day a monument ‘ Bu ! to him stands on the field o f ba ttle . t alas modern scholarship has had to perform the unwelcome task of provi ng that th is beautifu l

Story is nothing bu t a myth . E u ll verybody knows , thro gh Schi er , the story h r i a u of W illi am T ell . T e o ig n l acco nt is E h fou nd in the old chronicle of gidiu s T sc u di . He tells how after D u ke Al bert of A u stri a had E s become mperor , he u ed this position in order to make good certain cl aims in the Forest C a an d a r ntons , to unite these l nds to the he edi Th Can tary possessions of Austria . e Forest Bu t E r tons objected . the mpe or sent two governors Herm an Gessler of Bru n igg an d r n La a a Be i ger of ndenberg , the l tter m king a u a in in his he dq rters Sarnen , the former

Kii ssn ach .

Both soon showed themselves to be tyrants . 20

THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE

Bu t Gessler seeing a second arrow in his u a u was q iver , sked him what his p rpose with

a . To had the rrow shoot you , if I shot my ” ’ T a . a an son , was ell s nswer P le with ger r u a Gessler o dered him to be bo nd , pl ced on a a a Kiissn ach bo t and c rried over to , there to be flung into a du ngeon . While they were a a an d T l crossing the l ke, a storm rose, as e l was the onl y m an who cou ld steer the boat

a a w as u u . Bu t s fely to l nd , he nbo nd when the r r T ar u bark app oached the sho e , ell , c ef lly m a at choosing his oment , le ped ashore , the same tim e pu shing the boa t back into the

a u a . a a l ke , and th s esc ped A few d ys fter ward he lay in ambu scade for Gessler in the Kii ssn ach Hohle Gasse , near , and shot him as he passed by . s a u r u Such is thi f mo s sto y , which altho gh a u r so well known , we h ve tho ght wo th while to give here in the simple narra tion of old n idiu s Tschu di . Su rely no more inspiring an d beau tifu l story can be fou nd in the ann als of an y n ation . A cry of indign a tion rose from the whole a Eu t chiu s Swiss people when , a few ye rs ago , y Kopp proved concl u sively that W illi am Tell never existed ; that this story was only a local 22

THE LAND AND THE PEO P LE version of a legend com mon to all Aryan peo ples . Yet the Swiss will never cease to revere the W a - a r name of illi m Tell . T o d y his spi it hovers over every foot Of the fai r r egion abou t La Lu an d w as m r ke cerne ; it no e e sentiment , bu t ru a i m an act of the t est politic l w sdo , when r a r the Swiss gove nment sho t time ago , on the ’ a ar a a occ sion of Schiller s centen y , g ve to e ch a ar one of the school children of the l nd , ne ly u r u a all a two h nd ed tho s nd in , copy of the ’ Fo r poet s Wi lli am Tell . th u s the mem ory of r r a a a a thei g e t n tion l hero is kept live , and for centu r ies to com e his n am e will still be potent to infu se into the heart of the you th of Switzer a a a an d l nd , new ze l and determin tion to do die for the Fa ther land . While far less rom antic th an the older r a a is histo y of Switzerl nd , th t of recent times no less interesting to Am eric ans ; for it is the only cou ntry in Eu rope th a t bears close resem bl ance in its politica l and social life to o u r own h as ha R u u . d co ntry It its war of ebellion , j st as the United States ; for the Federation which wa rm Na s fo ed after the fall of poleon , was so unsatisfactory th a t a new Federation w as 1847 Of a formed in , consisting seven st tes , 23 THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE which a ttempted to secede from the old r a n d u t gove nment , these were p down only The by force of arms . new and more perfect C nf a 1848 form of o ederation dopted in , lim ited the independent power of the separate a a am all st tes , g ve the s e rights to Swiss in u u the co rts , t rned over to the central govern a ment the control of milit ry service , taxation ,

- ofli ce a a u r . a u post , coin ge , me s es , etc In sm ch as the Swiss imita ted the constitution of o u r a a u ra a u m a own l nd , it is n t l th t we sho ld find ny a n resembl nces between the two gover ments , a a u R a a both h ving Ho se of epresent tives , a an d Ca u Sen te , a President his binet , a S preme

C u . Bu t at m m o rt , etc the sa e ti e the Swiss took care to adopt all these fea tu res in a form which su ited their par ticu l ar needs ; hence ther e are a nu mber of m inor differences be tween the two governments . Bu t the great difference is th a t of the Referendu m an d the a Initi tive , something which has had no coun ter art o u r o wn u u p in co ntry , ntil very recently , an d h as proved to be very su ccessfu l in apply ing in modern times the a ncient Teutonic principle of direct government . u r r It is not s prising , in view of thei long t a a -d a o fler r ining , th t the Swiss people of to y 24 THE LAND AND THE PEOPLE

a a r r u u the spect cle of p ospe o s , nited , highly Th cultiva ted sta te . e people themselves are not only freer an d better ed u ca ted th an m any u bu t are of their neighbo rs , on the whole of u a n the highest religio s d mora l ch ara cter . M any Am erica ns h a ve felt th a t here is a n ation more like thei r own people th a n an y other on the continent of Eu rope . CHAPTER II

THE MOUNTAIN G LORY AND THE MOUNTAIN G LOOM

UT after all it is not the history or the legends of Switzerla nd th a t h ave m ade u a bu t ex trao r it so pop l r , rather the din ar au an d a y be ty ch rm of its scenery . Sir Lesli e Stephen h as entitled his interest ing collection of essays on Swiss mountain The u o Pla ro nd Eu ro e. climbing , yg f p And a the name is well chosen . M ny distingu ished men of all l ands an d occu p a tions come here i r u u a u an d re to rest from the r a d o s l bo rs , to n r E u m gain new hea lth a d st ength . very s mer r r m an d schola s , scientists , cle gy en , men of u an d a letters , climb the lofty mo ntains , go b ck , an d r u i renewed in body spi it , to res me the r work in the home land . Bu t even for those who are not mou ntain a a fu a climbers , Switzerl nd exerts power l attr e

. r a a tion Many come hithe in se rch of he lth , as a such the l te John Addington Symonds , 26

MOUNTAIN G LORY AND G LOOM

There the avalan che thun ders

The o ar e rren u h s to t d mb .

o me 0 e mo u n ain I c , y t s, ” Ye o rren o me! t ts , I c

S a e till others find here esthetic pleasur , E inspiration to art or song . very lover of ’ poetry will remember Coleridge s H ymn be ’ ore su n ri se i n the Vale o Chamo n i x f f , Byron s Man red an d descriptions of the Alps in his f , ’ Ru skin s famou s chapters on the mou ntain R him gloom and the mountain glory . uskin self was born with the mou ntain fever in his o b a a in flu blood . T this e ttribu ted a gre t

- ence over his whole life . In a well known a a Praeteri ta saw p ss ge of his , he tells how he “ r a the Alps for the fi st time ; and dds , I went down th a t evening from the garden terrace of Sch aflhau sen with my destiny fixed in all of n o it tha t was to be sacred a d u sefu l . T that La a terrace and the shore of the ke of Genev , a u d a my he rt and faith ret rn to this y, in every impu lse that is yet nobly alive in them and ” every thou ght that has in it help or peace . So u niversal is this feeling to-d ay th a t it is hard for u s to realise th a t it h as n o t always existed ; yet a brief gl ance at the past wil l show th a t the love of the Alps is of compara 28 MOUNTAIN G LORY AND G LOOM

ivel h t y recent origin . T e modern attitu de r a u r towa d n t e differs from that of the ancients , especially . in regard to the wilder aspects N thereof . either the Greeks nor the Rom ans looked on mou nta ins as adding an y beau ty a r to the landsc pe , except on the ho izon , where “ distance w as su pposed to lend ench antm ent ” u to the view . As H mboldt says in his K os “ mo s: Of the everl asting snow of the Alps as it reddens in the light of the setting or rising su n au , of the be ty of the azure ice of the a r u s a gl cie , of all the grande r of Swi s l nd a m w sc pes , not a single description has co e do n ” h m m to u s from antiqu ity . T e sa e state ent is true of the Middle Ages , during the whole cou rse of which the only sentiments inspired by wild mou nt ainou s scenery were those of i a ntipathy . It is an interest ng fact that of the m any thou sands who crossed the Alps in a either direction , not one , whether poet , p inter , a had schol r , or merchant , a good word for Th the scenery throu gh which he p assed . e eminent Italian scholar Leonardo Bru ni ( 1369 — “ 1 444) s ays : When I looked u pon these a u u etern l and enormo s mo ntain masses , deep u an d a horror seized pon me , I even now c nnot ” think of them without a shu dder ; an d one 2 9 MOUNTAIN G LORY AND G LOOM hundred years l ater Sebasti an Miin ster ( 1489 1552) decl ared th a t as he stood on the Gemmi ” u Pass he sh ddered even to his very bones . But a change in the attitu de of the world toward the Alps had begu n . Already in the i u r am u a s xteenth cent y , the f o s bot nist Konr ad Gessner of Zitr ich decl ared th a t as long as God gave him l ife he had resolved to clim b ai ar a one or more mount ns every ye , p rtly u l i a a to st dy the A p ne flor , p rtly to strengthen his r m bodily health and ref esh his ind . In 1624 John Jacob G r asser of B ale praises the mou ntains ; from 1 702— 1 71 1 the Ziirich physi cian Jacob Scheu ch zer with his pu pils made an d described m any Al pine tr ips . In 1 729 ’ appear ed Haller s vol u me of poetry on D i e Al en u a a 1777 p , which was so pop l r th t in it T had run thr ou gh thir ty editions . his cele brated book dr ew the attention of all Eu rope a r a a a to Switzerl nd , and sta ted th t dmir tion which has been growing ever since . Yet even this adm iration was different from the modern mountain worship as it is seen in W ordsworth h a a an d Ru skin . T e e rlier tr vellers to Switzer l and confined their attention chiefly to the an d u u manners c stoms of the co ntry , and what they most admired was the sim ple life 30 MOUNTAIN G LORY AND G LOOM an d the idyllic h appiness Ofthe primitive pasto ral u h ad people , s ch as they seen them in ’ Haller s poetry an d su ch as they h ad tried to a a u a E n th find them ag in in ct l life . ven so e u siastic a u as a lover of n t re Klopstock , who ’ ur 1 750 Bo dm er s visited Z ich in , showed , to a u r stonishment , no c iosity to view the Alps , ’ a o r f r either from ne r a . Goethe s adm iration u a r u r so nds somewh t pe f ncto y , and in his Lette s rom Swi tzerl and a r r f , inste d of desc ibing au r the be ty of Geneva , he gives the sto y of an adventu re th a t no self- respecting m an of

- to d ay wou ld d are to rel a te . Even after Rou sseau had given the impu lse to the deeper u a r love for the mo nt ins , voices in p otest were

ar r r . 1760 a he d he e and the e In , the ye r in

’ N ou uelle H eloi se w as u which the p blished , the Bernese G ru ner s aid of G u ttan en in the H aslith al -d a , which to y everybody finds so “ r u a u r h as a r pictu esq e , Here n t e g the ed to ” gether everything fearfu l an d hideou s ; an d ten year s l ater George Fii ssli fou nd nothin g bu t rr u a E r a ho ible mo nt in in ngelbe g , which ” an d r ‘ u a as a loftily p ettily sit ted , B edeker

u a a u a r r a . p ts it , ttr cts tho s nds of visito s eve y ye r E C au a r a n a ven hate bri nd , the g e t apostle of u r a a t re worship in F nce , declares th t while 3 1 MOUNTAIN G LORY AND G LOOM mountains were all right as form ing a back r u l ru g o nd , yet the fee ings excited by their g “ n a ged n ess a d sterility were p infu l . Le t no ” “ ask a a one me , he s ys , to dmire the long a rocky ridges , the precipices , the r vines , the an o u Al i windings in d t of the p ne Valleys . r R u a As we shall see late , it was o sse u who gave the m ightiest impu lse to the love of the l an d u all s A ps , he is the forer nner of that va t army of worshippers who come yearly to the ar u u a n in r v io s mo nt i resorts , orde to worship “ the spirit that hovers about these eldest ” a a Of a a . lt rs cre tion , as Goethe c lls them W hence comes this compellin g charm ? It is a i ur u s not ltogether from the r pict esq ene s , a T o e fer s ys pp , nor the gigantic wonders “

a . N which ttract the eye ovelty , yes , without

a al . doubt , especi ly for the denizens of cities The a i a spect so l ke that of de th , solitude , o u r own i eternal silence ; ex stence , so frail , bu t i so fleeting , liv ng and endowed with u an d a tho ght , with will affection , pl ced in contact with inanima te ex istence and the mu te grandeu r of these bein gs withou t life . e u u Hence come , it se ms to me , the vag e tho ghts which ch arm and stir the sou l while gazing on s n the e thi gs ; poetry , indistinct but mighty , 32 MOUNTAIN G LORY AND G LO OM and which for the very reason that it directs o u r tho u ghts towards the grea t mysteries of

a a an d a . cre tion , c ptivates elev tes the soul More than one m an who has forgotten God u a r a pon the pl ins , remembe s him gain among ” the mou ntains . After all it is the same spirit th a t reveals m in itself in all ti es , the feeling of religion “ r spi ed by the higher altit u des . I will lift u p mine eyes u nto the hills whence com eth my a a m a ra help , s ng the Ps l ist ; S int F ncis of Assisi w as filled with the desi deri u m colli u m a etern u m him m , which led from time to ti e to a u au m en an d le ve the b sy h nts of , seek the qu iet hermitage of La Ver n a ; a n d it was the same ch arm which m ade Petrarch love to say his midnight prayers among the moonlit hills . No one h as better expressed in poetry the essence of the spi r itu a l infl u ence of the m oun tains th an the following lines of a recent writer

I wish I co u ld get th e peace o f the mo u n ta in s in to me !

The n d ro ar o er em n n u ro m the sea ! wi s v th , si gi g p f

e a e o of the m an d ra n fo r e r armen s re Th y h v c wls ist , i th i g t g y; ’ The o r d a dream ere e er the dea - e l o l w l s , wh v th b l s t l ;

ere n o n a e e sa but G od an d the sou . Th is thi g th t liv s, th y y, l i e ea e of the mo u n a n n o me I w sh I coul d et th c t i s i t , g p " t And not have all the wo rld a trou bl e o me . 33 MOUNTAIN G LORY AND G LOOM

In the village of Zerma tt there is a little a r churchy rd , whe e repose the bodies of those who h ave died a violent dea th a mong the mou ntains ; there we find the graves of the victims of the grea t disaster which m arked the a r r Cro z first ascent of the M tte ho n , Michel , u u u a H dson , and the yo thf l H dow , on whose tomb we read the p a thetic inscription pl aced “ ar Ita a u a there by his p ents , , P ter , q oni m ” ‘ ra sic fu it pl acitu m a nte te . O ther g ves Show us likewise the tragic side of the moun a — u s a u a n r has t ins , show th t the mo nt i glo y m its accompaniment in the mou nta in gloo . For as we look over the ann als of Switzer l and we find them strewn with the records of a u a a dis ster , to individ ls or to whole vill ges a a a and cities . Av l nches , l ndslides , floods , and fire h ave from time to time swept over the l and . There are the nu merou s disasters d u e to a a u as a v lanches , s ch th t one in which the u Ben n en u a au u a g ide fo nd such be tif l de th , au Cr u a 1864 on the H t de y in Febr ry , , a description of which for ms one of the most ” interesting chapters of Professor John lyn ’ d all s H ou rs of Ex erci se amon g the Alps. T -filled hey were crossing a snow couloir , and 34

MOUNTAIN G LORY AND G LOOM

Th r a aval anche . e nar tor of this story was a l R a an d s ved himse f , but ennen was de d , there “ deep in the snow of the ava lanche was the grave of the bravest gu ide the Va lais ever had ” or ever will h ave . T his touching scene h as been m ade in to a

. E a R a in his symbol by dw rd owl nd Sill , beautifu l poem entitled Tru th at Last

‘ Do e man e er e u o e on der s a v giv p h p , I w ,

Fa e the r m a ee n ea r as d a ? c g i f ct , s i g it cl y

W en Benn en saw th e n o eard under h s w slip, h its th

w o u der roarin rou nd him felt the eed Lo , l , g , sp

G ro i er a s the a a an e ur ed do n ard w sw ft v l ch h l w w , — Did he fo r j u st on e h eart - thro b did he i n deed

Kn o all er a n as e e o n ard w with c t i ty, th y sw pt w ,

ere was the en d ere the ra dr o ed a a ? Th , wh c g pp w y r i he n k e en i l e un ed an d el O d d thi , v t l th y pl g f l ,

me m ra e o u d o em ? Na e e l So i cl w l st p th y, th y t l

a he u rn ed roun d a e o r ard alm an d a e Th t t , f c f w , c p l , Stretchi ng his arm s o u t toward his n ative val e

if in mu e u n eaka e are e l As t , sp bl f w l , —’ s en d o n . Tis o me n if at last An d o w t w s thi g, ,

ou o nl fo r a a a man ma see Th gh y fl sh , y r-e e the u u re as he ee the a Cl ea y d f t s s p st, ’

From d ou o r ea r o r o e i l u on ree. bt, f , h p s l si f

Among other catastrophes in Swi tzerland we m ay mention the sink ing of the lower part of the city of Zu g into the Lake in 1887 and 36 MOUNTAIN G LORY AND G LOOM

a 2 1806 the gre t landslide , September , , whose can u a trace still be seen in Arth Golda , when great mass of the opposite Rossberg suddenly u a u r u an d fell , b ried over h nd ed b ildings brought instantaneous death to nearly five r hund ed men . Again there is the terrible story of the de stru ction of the village of H au t Chatillon G estel en ru ar 1 8 1 720 at ( ) , Feb y , , when night an aval anche swa llowed h alf the village with a w as a a a its inh bitants , while the rest c rried w y or destroyed by the fire which bu rst o u t amid h m the confu sion . T e victi s were bu ried in a - d a a common grave , and to y the pensive tr vel ler can still read the p athetic inscription

” D ea r G o d ! What s o rrow ! Eighty-e ight in a si ngle to mb !

SO too there is the total destru ction of Meir im a FOhn gen , when the dre ded blew over it a a a with its fiery bre th , and left it m ss of smo u ldering ashes ; an d fin ally there is th a t awfu l dis aster in the vill age of Elm in the Ca u m 1 1 1 881 nton of Glar s , Septe ber , , the grea test and most famou s of all Alpine l and

r was a u a a slides . The e mo nt in th t overtopped Pl atten ber ko f a re the village , the g p , with p ci itou s an d a u p side wooded s mmit , that 37 MOUNTAIN G LORY AND G LOOM

a a u f ced the tr veller coming p the valley . Abou t h alf w ay u p the mou nt ain there is a bed of a an d ar a h fine sl te , for ye s the n tives ad quar i a a ur ried th s sl te , which proved so ce of profit m to the whole co mu nity . From time to time warnin gs were given as to the d anger of th u s u nder mining the steep hill ; cracks opened a in all in 1 879 a u overhe d directions ; , h ge a u ai crev sse split the mo nt n from side to side , an d a u al as r gr d ly widened the yea s went on . u 1 881 By Aug st , , it was between twelve and Bu t fifteen feet wide . still the people re fu sed to r ealise the d anger . O n Septem 7 a r a a r ber , m sses of ock beg n to f ll f om l ra ar in the hil , st nge noises were he d its

w as u . bowels , and finally work s spended All u r n thro gh the tenth , and the mo ni g of the r r u ar an eleventh of Septembe , eve y q ter of u a u an d ho r or so , f lls of rock occ rred the mou ntain groaned an d ru mbled incessantly . w Th e eleventh of September as a wet Su nd ay . Th e boys of the vill age were fu ll of excite an d u ar m n ment , co ld h dly be kept fro goi g

u . a a u p to the hill In the fternoon , n mber of a r r v men g the ed at an inn in the uppe illage , u a u r u a j st at the foot of the l bo ing mo nt in , to u w a tch the falls . Another gro p of persons 38 MO UNTAIN G LORY AND G LOOM

’ ga thered a t a rela tive s ho u se to celebrate a ch ristening . M any of the people in the lower a r u u an d vill ge we e q ite ninterested , were a i m eng ged in the r ordinary do estic d u ties . m u at . m S ddenly p . a ass of the mou ntain r a a r m la n b r The b oke w y f o the P tte e gko pf. r u r u r u g o nd bent and b oke p, the t ees pon it a n d r an d th e nodded folded togethe , rock u m m a s a eng lfed the in its boso , it cr shed r u arr a r r am down ove the q y , shot c oss the st e s w an d spread itself o u t on the fl a ts . No one as a u r a killed by this f ll , tho gh the déb is re ched within a dozen yards of the inn where the Th e a a sightseers were ga the red . inh bit nts of the u pper vill age now began to be a little T a r ara fo r frightened . hey m de p ep tions mov am ing the aged an d sick . People c e from the lower vill age to help o r to see o r to t alk . Some went into thei r hou ses to sh u t the win O w as dows and keep o u t the d u st . N one in T fir a am r m a an y hu rry . his st f ll c e f o the e st side of the Pl a tten bergko pf; seventeen m in u tes l ater a second an d l a rger fall descended Th e a m a from the west side. g shes de by the u a an d two nited below the pe k , left its enor mou s m ass isol ated an d withou t su pport . During the fou r minu tes th a t followed the 39 MO UNTAIN G LORY AND G LOOM second fall every one seems to have been run i a u bu t w as n ng bo t , believing that the worst T a over . hen those who were w tching the r mountain f om a distance , beheld the whole Pl atten ber ko f upper portion of the g p , 000 u u c bic metres of rock , s ddenly shoot from Th the hillside . e forest u pon it bent like a field of corn in a wind before being swallowed “ up ; the trees became mingled together like ” h a a flock of sheep . T e m ss slid or rather i shot down with extraordinary velocity , t ll u its foot reached the qu arry . Then the p per part leaped forward horiz ontally straight

a an d D ii n iber . across the v lley , on to the g People in suitable positions cou ld at this moment clearly see throu gh beneath it to the u i a hills beyond . People in the pper v ll ge h cou ld be seen racing about wildly . T e falling mass looked so vast it seemed as if it were going to fill up the va lley . A cloud of dust accom panied it and a grea t wind was fl u ng S a before it , which wept across the v lley , and

u a . overthrew the ho ses like h ystacks Hay , u an d m in furnit re , the bodies of men were gled with the ru ins of hou ses in the air . Th e ava l anche shot with incredible swift ness across the valley . It pitched on to the 40 MOUNTAIN G LORY AND G LOOM

Dii n iber u u an d was u g, str ck it obliq ely , th s deflected down the level an d fertile valley r a floor which it cove ed in few seconds , to the dist ance of near ly a m ile an d over its a m a r whole width , with ss of rock déb is , r h r more th an thi ty feet thick . T e inte n al fr iction of the m ass an d the friction between it and the grou nd were insignific a nt forces compared with the tremendou s mom entu m r h u th a t w as gene ated by the fa ll . T e st ff h flowed like liq u id . T e r oar of the fall ceased su ddenly ; silence an d stillness su pervened .

Su rvivors stood stu nned where they were .

r Nothing m oved . Then a g e a t cry and w a iling arose in the p ar t of the vill age th a t was left . T a a u his gr phic cco nt , which has been ’ abridged from a ch apter in Conw ay s The Al s om En d to En d m r a p fr , will give , o e th n a u m a a fu all st tistics co ld do , so e ide of the w l forces sleeping amid the gra ndeu r and beau ty of the Alpine wor ld . In the preceding pages we h ave seen th a t the m m m r love for the ou ntains is so ething ode n . NO phase of this love is so entirely m oder n however as the spor t of m ou ntain- clim bing T m pu re an d simple . his is so ething entirely u u an d nknown in antiq ity , the Middle Ages 41 MOUNTAIN G LORY AND G LO OM

r even l a ter centu r ies . P obably the first m an ever to climb a high mou ntain for the s ake w as a a t a u of the view , Petr rch , least his cco nt u of the ascent of Mt . Vento x is the first detailed

description of su ch a trip . Nearly five h u ndr ed years were to pass before we meet with a sim il ar detailed de W scr iption of a mou ntain ascent . e h ave seen how in genera l the love for mountains ’ r o u r h as become u nive sal in d ays . Yet this is fr equ ently a mo u ntain worship from a dis u a tance . For tens of tho s nds who visit the " u m u a o Alps there is not one tr e o nt ineer . T a u an d most people the ple s res , the benefits the charm of pu re mou ntain -clim bing are u n E r a a o f m known . ven the g e t postle the ou n Ru u r a r . t in glo y , Mr skin , p ts p ofessional mou ntain -climbing on a level with clim bing r r greased poles . O the s think the isks e n countered an d the loss of life which fre qu ently occu rs as sufficient grou nds against wh at appears to them reckless disregard for ’ r their own an d othe s safety . Of cou rse this d anger h as been very largely r an d m n u diminished in recent yea s , so e

doubtedly r egard it as a negligible q u antity . Yet it is u ndou btedly tru e th at every year 40

MOUNTAIN G LORY AND G LOOM

’ u are W Scram le in English . S ch hymper s b s ’ amon the Al s T a H ou rs o Ex er e g p , ynd ll s f ci s ’ amon the Al s L The Pla g p , eslie Stephen s y ’ grou n d oi Eu rope an d Mu mm ery s My Climbs e l a the au c i n th A ps nd C asu s. It is interesting an d va l u able to read wha t these and other men say of the pleasures and benefits of this most strenuou s of all sports . In the first place there is the vast view which spreads o u t before the eyes of those who h ave reached the su mmit of a high mountain after E u infinite p ains . ven neducated men are ’ deeply impressed by this . O n e of Wh ymper s u Lu c u - a g ides , Meynet , the h mp b ck , when he a Co l a r re ched the of the M tterho n , fell to his knees in a dora tion an d wept with enthu siasm a t Of a a a a on the rocks , the sight the v st p nor m r he beheld for the fi st time . And some years later when he reached the su mmit of the a r a a m M tterho n , he is s id to have excl i ed th a t he cou ld hear the angels singing and he a cou ld now die h ppy . Bu t after all it is not the view a lone that is their reward . It . is the joy of conquest over ffi all t di culties of kinds , the deep rest hat a comes fter violent exertion , the sense of peace that dwells a lone a mong the hi gh moun 44 MOUNTAIN G LORY AND G LO OM

m tains . A blind an who reached the su mmit of the Matterhorn had the s ame experience as his comp anions . Bu t a a there is ch rm in the very exertion , a r a in the d nge s themselves , in the thrill th t comes over one when crawling along the n ar o f r m u row edge ice or rock , with a t e endo s abyss dropping away thou sands of feet on m either Side . This situ a tion is ad irably de “ o u scribed by Sir Leslie Stephen . Behind y the snow-slope sinks with perilou s steepness toward the wilderness of glacier an d r ock Bu t throu gh which the ascent h as l ain . in a front , the ice sinks with even gre ter steepness u for a few feet or yards . Then it c rves over an d a a an d a dis ppe rs , the next thing th t the eye ca tches is the m eadowl and of G r indel

a u a . Th e w ld , some nine tho s nd feet below a a tingling , creeping sens tion which p sses ’ through one s limbs , even when one knows f af onesel to be in perfect s ety , testifies to the ” thrilling influence of the sight . Then again there is a ch arm in the strange ' silence and u tter l o n elin ess far u p above the “ No t u habitation of m an . a so nd comes there except the occasional fall of a splintered frag ment of rock or a layer of snow ; no stream is 45 MO UNTAIN G LORY AND G LOOM

a r an d u a i he rd t ickling , the so nds of anim l l fe u a are left tho s nds of feet below . The m ost th at yo u can hear is some myster iou s noise m ade by the wind eddying rou nd the gigantic a a a u rocks ; sometimes str nge fl pping so nd , as if an u near thly flag w as sh aking its invisi ir The u a ble fold in a . enormo s tr ct of cou n u r try over which yo view extends , most of it an d a a ir a dim lmost dissolved into by dist nce , intensifies the str ange infl u ence of the si Yo u lence . feel the force of the line from W ordsworth ,

’ ee m n e n e The sl p that is a o g th lo ly hi ll s .

None of the travellers whom yo u can see crawling at your feet h as the leas t conception of wh a t is meant by the silent solitu de of the ” High Alps . And so these men answer indignantly the a a Of a u ch rge of ostent tion , f lse enth siasm , of “ ” r . a L desi e for notoriety I say , s ys Sir eslie , a a u a th t I enjoy being on the top of mo nt in , wa a a or indeed , half y up a mount in ; th t clim bing is a pleasu re to m e and wou ld be so if no one else climbed an d no one ever heard ” “ W e u of my climbing . who go mo ntain ” Wh a Mr . climbing , s ys ymper , have con 46 MOUNTAIN G LORY AND G LO OM stan tly set before u s the su periority of fixed u r ra u r W p pose or perseve nce to br te fo ce . e a a a m u know th t e ch height , e ch step , st be a a a r u a g ined by p tient l bo io s toil , and th t wish a a a W ing c nnot t ke the pl ce Of working . e

m u u a aid a m a a know the benefit of t l , th t ny

u u u r an d a an diffic lty m st be enco nte ed , m ny obstacle m u st be gr a ppled with or t u r ned ; b u t ’ ’ we know th a t where there s a will there s a way; an d we com e b ack to o u r d aily occu p a tions better fitted to fight the b a ttle of life a n d to overcom e the im pedim ents which obstru ct o u r a r a n d r p ths , st engthened chee ed by the recollections of past l abou rs an d by the m em o W e r ries of victor ies ga ined in other fields . glo y in the physic al r egenera tion which is the prod u ct of o u r exer tions ; we ex u lt over the gran deu r of the scenes that ar e br ou ght before o u r u r u an d u eyes , the splendo s of s nrise s nset , an d au a a an d the be ties of hill , d le , l ke , wood w a terfall ; bu t we va lu e more highly the de velo me n t a an d u p of m nliness , the evol tion , u m a u nder co b t with diffic lty , of those noble u u m a a u u q alities of h n n t re , patience , end r ”

an d u . ance , fortit de u m m r lll Climbs i n the M e y , in his book y Al s an d the Cau casu s u a u a p , ses simil r lang ge , 47 MO UNTAIN G LORY AND G LOOM

a ik decl aring that the h ppy climber , l e the aged Ulysses , is one who has

“ Drunk delight o fbattle wi th hi s peers ; and that this delight is only a ttainable by ’ assau lting clifls which tax to their u tmost m a W the powers of the ou nt ineers . hile u Re au i u G ido y, in his be t f l book on the Matterhorn a u - , comp res mo ntain climbing to a grand struggle Of noble sou ls toward a pu re an d lofty ideal ; and decl aring th a t even the terrible disaster of the fi rst ascent of the Matterhorn h as som ethin g of the ancient “ a a tr gedy in it , showing as it does , Mort ls revolving in grief and joy abou t a mu te in ex ” “ o rable D . estiny , the Matterhorn It is not a a m a a p ssing moment ry i pression , he s ys , “ h u s bu t that we bring down wit , , a memory that lasts a lifetime . I wish all the youth of

Italy , who are mentally and physically fit , u a a at wo ld scend the M tterhorn once least , so th a t their un known powers of mind might an d a be revealed to them , that noble pride in their physical feat might pur ify them and make them more capable of high resolves and more sincere lovers of their beau tifu l cou ntry . I wish sceptics could experience the good 48 MOUNTAIN G LORY AND G LOOM

' The e flect th a t a grea t ascent prod u ces in u s. v anities which filled o u r m inds before we m o w a re star ted now see tr ivi a l to u s. N we pp ci ate the comforts to which u se had m ade u s W e a a r f r o u r indifferent . feel gr e te love o n m m homes a d fa ily . And when we co e down from the m ou ntains we rejoice to bring back a n d displ ay to o u r dear ones the equ anim ity a a u r an d we h ve , cq i ed in the heights , to see them sm iling u pon u s bec au se the m ou nta in h as r a a r r resto ed to them he lthie , st onger , ' ”

a flectio n ate r . more son , brother or f iend CHAPTER III

THE OUTSKIRTS OF THE MOUNTAIN WORLD

UCH is the la nd which we are now to B visit for a brief time . u t before we begin o u r jour ney it will ‘be well to cast ’ a bird s-eye view over its physical conforma

. If o u r w a a a tion , on y from It ly to Switzerl nd , instead of taking a tra in at Airolo an d speed ing thr ou gh the nine -an d -a -h alf-m ile tu nnel to G Osch en en u u m m , we sho ld climb to the s it

. a a S u in a of the St Gotth rd P ss , we ho ld be position to u nderstand the general topography Th e r a r a of Switzerl and . g e t cent al m ss of a u the St . Gotth rd gro p on which we stand u r u a forms the foc s , as it we e , of the mo nt in r m ru n o u t a world . F o here the chief r nges , r O r a to the left that of the Be nese be l nd , a am a au cont ining ong other pe ks the Jungfr , E r a the iger , the Finste a rhorn ; and on the r R a othe side of the hone v lley , the range of R a the Pennine Alps , Monte os , the Matter

r an d . . T o o u r ho n Mt Blanc right , on both 50

OUTSKIRTS OF THE MOUNTAIN W ORLD

a R a a icy c ves of the hone gl cier , flows long a a the winding v lley of the same n me , enters La a an d u r a ke Genev , iss ing theref om , h stens over the fair fields Of France to find a fin al a m resting pl ce in the Mediterranean . In si i l ar m anner the Rhine flows along its n arrow a La C a an d i v lley , enters ke onst nce , sk rting the northern bou nd ar ies of Sw itzer la nd leaves a u r at a th t co nt y finally B ale , and tr verses rma the whole length of Ge ny , of which it for ms at the s ame tim e the m ost important n wa terway a d defence . Between these m ou ntains an d r ivers lies the rest of Switzerl and sloping a w ay to the grea t pl a in of the Aar in the nor th . Here an d ther e are seen those wonderfu lly bl u e l akes which form so lovely a fea tu re of Swiss r — Lu a Zil rich a n d a scene y , cerne , Genev , , E r r re a r score of others . ve ywhe e a sc tte ed u r a a ra a flo ishing cities , ne t and tt ctive vill ges , u r u a u a pict esq e c stles , or the h mble ch let of the Alpine shepher d ; everywhere is heard the - u u ru tinkling of cow bells , the m rm r of nning am o r u stre s , the shrill whistle of the mo ntain railroads . Yo u can enter Switzerl and from Italy by way of the Italian Lakes a n d the Sim plon or 5 2 O UTSKIRTS O F THE MOUNTAIN W ORLD the St . Gotthard tu nnel ; from France by way of Geneva ; an d from Germ any by w ay of the th is a Rhine . As l tter is perh aps the most popu lar ro u te fo r Am eric ans m aking a su mmer r a r a as are t ip b o d , we doing now , we will choose it fo r o u r little jou r ney thr ou gh the h r a Alps . T e fi st pl ce we stop at is BHle or a as ar u wr E B sel , it is v io sly itten in nglish , the a a a - u c pital of the h lf c nton of Bale Ville , sit a ted on both ba nks of the Rhine . It is a bu sy a r a r a n d at m arr a r il o d cent e , the ti e of the iv l an d depa rt u re of trains the sta tion is a scene Of u m a m a a n d u the t ost ni tion conf sion , crowded with to u r ists of every l and an d n ation . BHle ar r a is one of the l gest cities of Sw itze l nd , r and likew ise one of the oldest . It appea s first in the fo u rth cent u ry as a Rom an m ili h a a tary post (B asili a) . It s lways been the m a m r a u u centre of ny i po t nt instit tions , s ch as the Society fo r the Propaga tion of Usefu l m ar fo r a Knowledge , the Se in y Mission ries , an d a r m 1804 the Bible Society , which d tes f o and is the fi rst of the kind on the continent . Bale is the bir thpl ace of m any fam ou s

Eu r a n d a . men , le , Iselin , perh ps Holbein The University w as one of the m ost influ ential T w as a ru ur n in Eu rope . his especi lly t e d i g 53 OUTSKIRTS OF THE MOUNTAIN WORLD

R E s u the period of the eformation , when ra m s , ( Eco lampadiu s and Paracelsus were among its professor s . Robert B rownin g in his poem on Paracelsu s gives u s a glimpse of the en th u siasm a n for le rni g in those days , when

So me su n ny mo rn i n g Basel be i ng drain ed

Of i e o u a o n e er o rn er its w s p p l ti , v y c

Of the am h ea re ramm ed i earn ed erk phit t c w th l cl s,

Here ( Eoo lam adiu s o o k n o r d o f p , l i g w l s wit,

Here Ca el anu as ro o u n d as he st l s, p f ,

Mu nsteru s ere Fro eni u all u ere eezed an d arin . h , b s th , sq st g

The most import ant historica l event con n ected with Bal e was the famous council r in 143 1 summoned by Ma tin V , the three chief subjects which were speci ally assigned to it being the r eu nion of the G r eek an d Latin u a l r ch rches , the reconcili tion of the fo lowe s an d th e u of John Huss , the reform of ch rch accor ding to resol u tions passed at the cou ncil at Constance a few years before . Althou gh the Cou ncil lasted a nu mber of years nothing positive was done ; rather the l abour s of the C u l a an d C a r u o nci s of Pis onst nce we e ndone , a r C u a a and fte this o ncil , men beg n to see th t the Ch u rch cou ld not be reformed without destroying the Papacy . 54 OUTSKIRTS OF THE MOUNTAIN W ORLD

Interesting as this old city is , however , ra l most t ve lers do not even enter its precincts , bu t ch ange cars an d pass on to their var iou s

a . fo r destin tions beyond And yet , even the u r u a r am h ried to rist , e ge to get ong the Alps , Bél h e is well wor th a visit . T e Rhine flows a r r an d cle r and green ; f om the b idge , espe ciall r m a a ra y f o the Pf lz , ter ce behind the Mii n ster r r an d , we get fine views ove the iver a r the hills of the Bl ck Fo est . So too there are u a n mber of objects of interest to be seen , L r r a r a T am the ib a y , cont ining the o igin l est ent of Er asmu s ; the Mu seu m with pictu res by D iir er Cra a T Holbein , , n ch , Bocklin ; the own a an d a Ca a Mil n ster H ll , especi lly the thedr l or , red u a of stone , beg n in Byz ntine style by E r r 1 0 10 ar r mpe o Henry II , in , p tly dest oyed 1356 ar u a an d fire u in by e thq ke , reb ilt in

Gothic style an d finished in 1460 . Bu t all these things can be seen in a shor t u r r time, and so we find o selves once mo e on the f a r a r u s com ort ble Swiss t in , eminding of those o u r u r o u r w a C a of own co nt y , on y to onst nce , which is situ a ted in the nor theast corner Of r a u as u a at Switze l nd , j st B ale is sit ted the u r northwest . This jo ney is ninety miles long and can be m ade by express in abou t three 55 OUTSKIRTS OF THE MOUNTAIN W ORLD

Th e a a R hou rs . ro d p sses near the hine for

ar a an d r ne ly the whole dist nce , is rende ed a agreeable by succession of fine views . Twenty miles o u t from Bale is the little town a a u all Eu of S ckingen , rendered f mo s over rope an d a by the poem oper of Victor von Scheffel , D er Trom eter vf on Sacki n en ar p g , the f ewell

at r a . song of which , least , is known to Ame ic ns Th e one city of an y size or importance is a au a a in Sch ffh sen inh bit nts) , chiefly terestin g perh aps for the old bell in the mil n ster r the insc iption on which ,

I OS OCO MO RTU OS PL ANG O F U G UR S FR NGO V V V , , L E A

a a ar (I c ll the living , I lament the de d , I w d Off u r u i l the th nde bolt) , s ggested to Sch l er his Li ed von der Glocke an d L , to ongfellow the olden e e scene in his G L g nd . Everybody knows th a t Ru skin was one of r u the most p ofo nd worshippers of the Alps , an d he himself h as done mor e perh a ps th an any one else to spr ead the feeling for the mou n m a a a r . No t all t in glo y , however , y know th t it w as at Sch affh au sen th a t he fir st received a the b ptism al fir e .

. In Pr ceteri ta u s a his he tells how , as child , u a a a he jo rneyed to Switzerl nd in a c rri ge , 56 OUTSKIRTS OF THE MOUNTAIN W ORLD and how he entered the ga te of Schaffh au sen after m idnight ; how be bu t dimly recollects a d a — u wh t they did the next y went to ch rch , m an d spent some ti e in seeing the town , then ar u h is a an d tow ds s nset , he went with f ther mother to a sor t of garden prom enade high

a R . u far bove the hine And s ddenly , behold ,

a au u a . way , he c ght sight of the mo nt ins “ There was no thou ght in an y of u s for a m mo ent of their being clou ds . They were a as r a ar as u r r cle r c yst l , sh p the p e ho izon sky , an d al ready tinged with rose by the sinking Infin itel all a h a su n . y beyond th t we d ever u o r r a a tho ght d e med , the seen w lls of lost Eden cou ld not h ave been more beau tifu l to u s r a u u a wa ; not mo e wf l , ro nd he ven , the lls of sacred D eath . an m Of It is not possible to imagine , in y ti e a r ra the world , mo e blessed ent nce into life , m m m for a child of su ch te pera ent as ine . u r a f an d fire ar Th s in pe fect he lth of li e of he t , a a bu t w as not w nting to be nything the boy I , not wanting to h ave anything mor e th an I h ad ; knowing of S orrow only j u st so mu ch as to a r u u a m ke life se io s to me , not eno gh to sl cken in the least its seriou sness ; an d with so m u ch of science mixed with feeling as to make the 57 OUTSKIRTS OF THE MOUNTAIN W ORLD sight of the Alps not only the revelation of a a the be uty of the e rth , but the opening of u the first page of its vol me , I went down that evening from the garden terr ace of Sch aff h au sen with my destiny fix ed in all of it th a t wa a n s to be s cred a d u sefu l . T o that terrace r La a and the sho e of the ke of Geneva , my he rt an d a u d a l f ith ret rn to this y, in every impu se a th t is yet nobly alive in them , and every ” u a h in ' tho ght th t as it help or peace . Sch aflh au sen From , or better still from the a Neu h au sen a m an d a l st tion of , ile ha f away , we can visit one of the grea t show places of a a Of R Switzerl nd , the F lls the hine , the E W a Ni agar a of u rope . hile not to be comp red a u a u a a in gr nde r with the f mo s Americ n f lls , r i an d the view is nevertheless inspi ng , sub u r lime ; the great river , one h nd ed and twenty five in a a feet wide , descends three le ps rocky ledge sixty feet high on one side and forty an d a an d eight on the other , with its casc des u a a rapids , h ge m sses of emer ld green water u i pl nging down into the foam ng abyss , its u u a u Of ra th ndero s ro ring, its clo ds sp y , its a u a an d r inbows , it prod ces feeling of awe admiration . An d a a C now we h ve re ched onstance , the 58

OUTSKIRTS OF THE MOUNTAIN W ORLD

l a in C r all that was most bri li nt h istendom , a an d princes and nobles , cardin ls bishops ; E i l the mperor h mse f was present , to lend solemnity to the occasion . In the middle of r r a a the chu ch , a platfo m in the sh pe of table had u been erected , pon which were the priestly gar ments in which H u ss was to be clothed before the ceremony of his degradation began . He himself was pl aced on a high stool befor e the table in or der that the people m ight see W him . hile the sentence of condemnation i a u l s was be ng re d , H ss i tened to it on his n an d r r k ees , f om time to time t ied to protest a a a u a a him g inst the cc sations made g inst , Wh bu t w as pr evented by those near him . en the reading of the sentence was ended he called God to witness th a t he was innocent ; and m u an d a u prayed Hi to forgive his j dges cc sers . Hereu pon followed the ceremony of degrad a w as r u t r tion . He o dered to p on the p iestly i a r . T u obes his he did , tter ng words rec lling the similar ceremony in the cas e of Chr ist . When he was fu lly dressed they asked him bu t a once more to recant ; he , f cing the people , denied having an y desire to offend or lead astray the faithful by hypocr itical and wicked ‘ at m his recantation , protesting the same ti e 60 O UTSKIRTS OF THE MOUNTAIN W ORLD innocence . Then he was forced to descend a an d from his se t , the bishops , taking the a a a O u u a ch lice from his h nds , s id , c rsed J d s , who having fors a ken the co u nsel of peace art r a a ente ed into th t of the Jews , we t ke this chalice from thee in which is the blood of W Jesu s Chr ist . ith simil ar cu rses they took r a an d f om him e ch of his vestments , then , u a a r r a p tting p pe c own , or mitre , on his he d , p ainted with grotesq u e figu res of devils an d “ r Heresiarcha r - the wo d , a ch heretic , they u devoted his so l to the devils in hell . As we stand here we c annot help a feeling of u plift an d inspi ration at the heroic dea th of this a a r a all m an man , de th which is the he it ge of au w as a ru kind , bec se he witness of the t th a n d all as he conceived it , not the combined effor ts of the Ch u rch an d the Holy Roman Empir e cou ld m ake him falter for a single moment . It is only a shor t dist ance from Constance Ztirich r w a to , thi ty miles , if we go by y of E au r -five w a VVin glis , thi ty if we go by y of T a r u a terth u r . king the fo mer ro te we p ss

r a au an d N u au once mo e by Sch ffh sen e h sen , a u a a go throu gh t nnel below the l tter vill ge , R r get a last view of the hine Falls , then st ike 6 1 OUTSKIRTS OF THE MOUNTAIN W ORLD

u E au so thward to glis , whence we soon reach ’ Ziir ich after less th an a two hour s ride from

Constance . Ziir ich is a a large , handsome , cle n , emi a a a u a uently modern city in ppe r nce , sit ted at the outlet of the river Limmat from the

. a an d in lake It is the l rgest , many respects , the m a most i port nt city of Switzerland , with a ar i h a popul tion of ne ly n abitants . It is impor tant from a bu siness an d commercial a i a l an d st ndpo nt , with m ny si k cotton mills , machine Shops and ir on foundr ies . It is also importa nt from an edu ca tion al point of view : its l are l schoo s excel ent , and it possesses two higher institu tions of learning eq u al to any a thing of the kind in Germ ny or elsewhere , the an d Po l tech n icu m University the y , the for mer cou nting near ly fifteen hu ndr ed stu u r i dents and one h nd ed and th rty professors , the la tter h aving nearly one thousand stu dents and one h u ndr ed professors . The Zil r ich is a history of very ncient , and su m s u p in a sense the history of all the rest The n h s of Switzerl a nd . earliest i abitant of u - l the fut re site of the city were lake dwe lers , many rem a ins of whose hou ses built on piles can be still seen in the Museum . Then came 62

O UTSKIRTS OF THE MOUNTAIN W ORLD the Celtic Helvetians who m ade a settlement L an d u on the indenhof , who in t rn were u R a a s cceeded by the om ns , who est blished a cu stoms sta tion here for goods com ing an d D going to Italy . u ring their r u le Christianity u ar r r was introd ced e ly in the thi d centu y . Later came the Alem anni an d were in their u r u r ra Th t n conq e ed by the F nks . e city of Zii rich itself was not fou nded till the ninth u r a u cent y , when it consisted of the roy l ho se ’ an d L castle on the indenhof, with the King s a r u r Mii n ster au ten nts a o nd , the G oss , the Fr “ ” Mil n ster and the commu nity of freemen a r Z r (of Alem nnic o igin) on the u ichberg. For a long time the Frankish kings had speci a l i a r rights over the r ten nts , were the protecto s u r had u of the two ch ches , and j risdiction over the free commu nity . It is not known whether Ch arlem agne was r Zii rich bu t a i eve in or not , his n me is nti m a tely connected with its art an d legends . O n r Mil n ster the west towe of the Gross , erected from the eleventh to the thirteenth u a u w an d cent ries , is his st t e with gilded cro n a sword , in recognition of his don tion to the L C a chu rch . egend tells how once when h rle a a magne came to the city , he had pill r set 03 OUTSKIRTS OF THE MOUNTAIN W ORLD up before his palace with a bell an d rope a an d a ttached thereto , m de it known that whoever su flered wrong sho u ld pu ll the bell Em r sat at an d u when the pe or dinner , he wo ld o u an come t d hear the story of his wrongs . O n e d a a an d E o y the bell r ng , the mperor , g o u t saw a a ing , serpent , which nodded its he d , an d a a ur ar u st rted for the l ke , t ning o nd to see that the Emperor followed . There the latter saw that a toad was sitting on the eggs of the m a ar a serpent , and i medi tely decl ed th t the h a toad shou ld be bu r nt to death . T e next d y E w as a as the mperor sitting at t ble , to the an d a all a terror stonishment of present , u a serpent crawled thro gh a hole in the w ll , u a sw ng itself down , lifted the cover of goblet a a u on the t ble , dropped precio s stone therein , h m The and depar ted the way it ad co e . Emperor in his joy fou nded a chu rch on the ’ h ad a spot where the serpent s nest been , chu rch which to this d ay is known as the

- W asser Kirche . Perh aps the most famou s of the historical Zilr ich R r u i events of is the efo mation , d r ng which it became the centre of the new move w ment in Switzerl and . It as Zwingli who brou ght to a su ccessfu l concl u sion this move 6 4

O UTSKIRTS OF THE MOUNTAIN W ORLD

m an n . morning , for every wished to see Zwi gli A grea t bou lder now marks th e pl ace where a a in scri the gre t reformer fell , and be rs this p “ : T ma bu t tion hey y kill the body , not the u S l r so l ; so poke on this spot U ich Zwingli , who for tru th an d the fr eedom of the Chr isti an ’ C r a O 1 1 hu ch died a hero s de th , ctober ,

For many years Zur ich h as been a literary Of r an bu t centre, not only Switze l d , for all w a T eu tonic Eu rope . It s here th a t John a an w a r J cob Bodmer lived d died . He s bo n in 1 698 far r Zil rich in Greifensee , not f om , and became the pioneer of the revolt again st the tyr anny of French cl assicism . His defence ’ Paradise Lost a of Milton s , which he fter ra a a r i u ward t nsl ted , g ve the fi st mp lse to the fa mou s liter ary q u arr el between himself an d L saw m f a Gottsched of eipzig , who hi sel fin lly conqu er ed an d deserted by his most distin r u a gu ished followe s . All the yo nger Germ n m a l r poets , Glei , H gedorn , Gel e t , Klopstock , an d Kleist , were the devoted admirers fol of m a a lowers Bod er , who for m ny ye rs held u Zil rich r a a co rt at , whithe c me m ny distin im T gu ish ed foreigners to do h hom age . his infl u ential position of Zii rich in Germ an 66 OUTSKIRTS OF THE MO UNTAIN W ORLD

was u La a r u letters kept p by v te , thro gh whom m r a r a . 1752 Goethe fi st c e to Switze l nd In , E a w r m Zii r ich w ld von Kleist ote to Glei , is a an ara a re lly incomp ble pl ce . For three or fou r people of geni u s an d t aste th at one meets a r r are Zil rich m in gre t Be lin , the e in little ore than twenty o r thir ty . O ther famou s men who h ave lived an d

r are a u r worked he e Pest lozzi , the fo nde of r ar r the kinde g ten , Gottf ied Keller , the poet , an d R ar W a r r ich d gne , who lived he e twelve

ar m Lo hen ri n an d ar ye s , co pleting the g , p tly N i ebelu n e l e writing out the g n i d . In the com lete r m p f eedom of y Swiss exile , he writes , I fou nd assu red to myself an u ndistu rbed self-concentra tion an d a clear sight Of my ” ideal . Bu t the one immort al n ame connected with Zti rich as a s all r a an d , well with Switze l nd R rm C u a the entire efo ed h rch , is th t of Zwingli , a brief accou nt of whose life h as been given a ar w as a bove . For twelve ye s he in ch rge of Mil n ster C u r a the Gross h rch , where he p e ched an d tau ght the people the new doctr ines of Th a r r R a . e the eform tion severely pl in inte io ,

m r u ar a u the si ple se vice , the devo t e nest ttit de a an d of the congreg tion , the gospel sermon of 67 OUTSKIRTS OF THE MOUNTAIN W ORLD

’ the preacher in the pu lpit m ake Zwin gli s chu rch an a ttractive pl ace still on a Sund ay morning . Ther e are severa l interesting places to Zii r ich u visit in , besides the ch rch ; one is the ’ a r can i town libr ry , whe e we see Zwingl s m a his own Ger an Bible , letter of his to wife , an d three Latin letters from Lady Jane Grey ’

u i u . n to B ll nger , Zwingli s s ccessor A other pl ace of inter est is the magnificent new Na n can tio n al Swiss Museum . O e spend many a pleasant hou r wa lking thr ou gh these h and s m at i o e rooms , looking the preh storic re mains fr om caves and l ake dwellin gs ; Roman a u u a an d a ntiq ities fo nd in Switzerl nd , Alem n L r u u a an d i . nian , B rg ndi n , omba d rema ns In the more modern section we find the fin e old a u u porcel in stoves , richly carved f rnit re , and a a complete rooms in their origin l st te , such as W in klerie d u a the one from the ho se at St ns , ' T with a h andsome co flered ceiling . here is nothing th a t gives one so deep an in sight into the life of p ast centuries as a walk through this splendid mu seu m . Bu t after all wh a t constitu tes the chief ele u u r as a ment of interest in s ch co nt ies It ly , Ger a a ur many , and Fr nce (picture g lleries , ch ches , 6 8 OUTSKIRTS OF THE MOUNTAIN W ORLD histor ic an d literary associa tions) seems to us r r a r of minor inte est he e in Switzerl nd , whe e the grea t book of na tu re is ever spread o u t before u s. And so we leave these objects of ’ man s activity an d w ander along the shores r an d of the rive the l ake . W e take the little railroad which carries u s to the top of the Ue tliber r a r g, ove h nging the city , f om whence a au u m ra we get be tif l View , e b cing the whole La Zil r ich r m of ke , the Alps f o the Sentis to the Ju ngfrau and the Stockhorn on Lake T u R an d a u r h n , with the igi Pil t s in the fo e u u ra an d m u gro nd , the J to the west , the o n r tains of the Bl ack Fo est to the nor th . W e take the steam boa t an d s ail over the a a r a -five cle r w te s of the l ke , twenty miles in a m length , with its gently sloping b nks , bloo ing a r ar m a a n d with viney rds , o ch ds , e dows fields of grain ; every where are scattered a ttractive an d u a prospero s looking vill ges , while on the distant horizon rise the snow-cover ed su m mits of the Alps . The American traveller in England is fond of visiting the places formerly inh abited by the Pu rit ans an d Pilgr im s before they left Engl and to pl ant their colonies on the in h o spi Fo r table shores of the new wor ld . the same 69 OUTSKIRTS OF THE MOUNTAIN W ORLD

reason the descend ants of the early Swiss u m a 1 710 Q akers of Pennsylvania, who de , in , r m La a C u the fi st white settle ents of nc ster o nty , will be led to visit the towns and vill ages of La Zil rich r m ke , from which , as well as f o the

Ca a . nton of Bern , these e rly settlers came In an old copy of the Au sbu ndt or Hymn a a r book of the An b ptists , a book whose o igin u dates from the sixteenth cent ry , I find in the a ppendix an accou nt of these old Lancaster C u am Me lin s o nty f ilies , the Millers , the y , Lan dises a an d r the , Bowm ns othe s , and the tri bu l ations that they su ffer ed before comin g

.to the new wor ld to sh ar e in the Holy Experi

ment of W illi am Penn . An d the places from which they came in Switzerl and are precisely S r La Zij rich are on the ho es of ke , by which we a at r r a s iling the p esent time , Ho gen , now th r iving community pleas antly situ a ted am idst a an d a W ad en sw l viney rds orch rds ; y , now

th e l argest vill age on the l ake ; and others . It is strange th a t whil e the smallest details of the coloni al history of New York and New E a are a a ngl nd known , th t so m ny Americans are totally ignorant of the cau ses tha t led to the extraor din ary influ x of Germ ans an d Swiss into Pennsylvani a in the eighteenth cen 70 O UTSKIRTS OF T HE MO UNTAIN W ORLD

tu ry . As we sail over the bl u e waters of Lake Zii rich let u s try to pictu re to ou rselves the state of things th a t prevailed here in the seven teen th r and eighteenth centu ies . D u ring the fifteenth an d sixteenth centu r ies the a nnals Of Bern an d Zil rich conta in freq u ent m ention of m easu res t aken to root o u t the sect of An abap tists r r u a IVa ld en , whose o igin ns b ck to the a a n d ir u r si ns of the twelfth th teenth cent ies . From their first appe ara nce in Sw itzer land

a a o r ra r u a r as these An b ptists , the Q ke s they

a r r a n d u m r re lly we e in doct ine c sto s , we e the victims of system a tic persec u tion on the p art r R rm r r a of thei efo ed b eth en , even the de th a a u m r pen lty being inflicted on n be , while

r r r r n othe s we e th own into p iso , exiled or ar sold as galley sl a ves . A singu l ly poetic a w as a hIa n z a u ar 5 de th th t of Felix , J n y , 1527 w a s a a a , when he t ken in bo t to the “ centre of the La ke : As he stood there with u a him an d - the bl e sky bove , the snow crowned

u a a u him u u i mo nt ins ro nd , his so l was pl fted , r arm and while they we e binding his s , he a a u i n man u s tu as D omi n e s ng with lo d voice , , commen do s i ri tu m m eu m a p , till the w ves ” ’ i closed on his head . Another of these ZiIr ch

ar r a C r m a La M ty s , an ncestor of ong ess n ndis , 71 O UTSKIRTS OF THE MOUNTAIN W ORLD

an d u . . La i a O il J dge K M nd s , of St ndard a a La i w as a f me , was H ns nd s , who behe ded ZiHich 1 6 14 u a in in for his Q ker opinions . Of all a r u their doctrines , th t of ef sing to a a was m u a be r rms the ost obnoxio s to the st te , which depended on its citiz ens for defence in m u times of aggression . It st be confessed th a t the Swiss Qu aker s were the m ost in tract

a o f . E i a a n an d a a n ble people x led g i g i , they persisted every time in r etu r ning to their Wh n ative land . en we come to speak of a a u Bern , brief cco nt will be given of how they came to Penn sylvania .

THE BIRTHPLACE OF SWISS LIBERTY the awfu l forces hiding beneath the fa ir ex te au u rior of Swiss scenery , fr ght with destr ction an all r 188 to man d his wo ks . For in 7 the ’ a u a lower p rt of the town , witho t moment s n a a warni g , sank into the l ke , sw llowing up many houses and bar ns and destroying eleven

lives . Leaving the qu iet ch arm of this beau tifully S r a a a ituated town , ski ting long the l ke , c tching a R an d glimpse from time to time of the igi , passing throu gh the tu nnels under the G ittsch

‘ SchOn h e im and the hill , we enter the station L of ucerne . Of all Swiss resorts none is more popul ar or more attractive th an this qu a int old mediae a val town . Situ ted on the m a in road to the

St. a a h as a a Gotth rd P ss , it lw ys been an important centre in the commerce between

Northern Switzer l and and Italy . Already in the eighth century a monastery w as u La Lu b ilt at the west end of ke cerne , an u u where , according to nfo nded tradition , R h ad u a - u u the omans b ilt light ho se (l cerna) , whence the n am e of the city is su pposed to a a be derived . Arou nd this mon stery settle a in ment was gr dually formed , and the e e a in l venth century had become city , which 74

THE BIRTHPLACE OF SW ISS LIBERTY the shores of the lake throu ghou t its whole an d a a r l length bre dth , h ve thei hote s and pen sions fo r the accom mod ation of the travellin g

u . a a Lu Of p blic In cert in sense , cerne is one r a S a an d the g e t how pl ces of Switzerland , hence h as lost m u ch of its ch arm for those r fo r l who love n atu e herse f alone . Th u s the T r a as noble lion of ho w ldsen ( it is often called , u w as a him bu t tho gh it not c rved by , by r C n a a r a a fur Abo n of o st nce , fte plaster c st nished by the grea t D anish scu lptor) has r a S -S become the cent e of lot of ide hows , not u u i a r u u m ch nl ke ci c s in its atmosphere , tho gh

‘ a a are a l the ttr ctions not tr ined horses , wi d “ ” “ ’ an d bu t a l beasts clowns , gl cier mil s , giant s ” au stu fled n an i c ldrons , collection of Alpi e a r ru a l m ls , econst ction of l ke dwe lings , diora

m as a am a . all , p nor s , etc , visited as a matter of u u r a d ty by to ists , in the same spirit , perch nce , as people visit the cu r iosities of Lu n a Park or r the G rea t W hite W ay Of the wo ld expositions . All this u ndou btedly detr acts greatly fr om the old ch ar m th a t once characterised Switzer a T are a l nd . here many lovers of the l nd who are const antly l amenting the overru nning of it by the m yri ads of tou rists fr om all parts of the 0 h a world . N one s Spoken more bitterly than 76 THE BIRTHPLACE OF SW ISS LIBERTY

R : Th e a C am a uskin V lley of h onix , he s ys , “ is rapidly being t u rned into a kind of Cre a a n d can morne G rdens , I see , within the bu t ar perspective of few ye s , the town of Lu cerne consisting of a ro w of symm etr ical u a r hotels ro nd the l ke , its old b idges de r an u R u an d st oyed , iron one b ilt over the e ss , an ac acia promen ade carried along the l a ke S a rm a a a u a hore , with Ge n b nd pl ying nder C m at an d en hinese te ple the end of it , the a r r r a o f Eu lightened tr velle s , ep esent tives ro ean a rf rm g r p civilis tion , pe o in . befo e the Alps in each a fternoon su m m er su nlight in D D ” a r a a . their modern m nne , the nce of e th This prophecy has com e tru e to a su rprising - Lu r m - r . T o d a u a deg ee y, ce ne , with its sic h ll , its r m m u m u u m p o enade , its ltiplied hotels , se s , a r a an d a bu t a r il o ds , l st , not le st , its newly a ku r-tax c h as S est blished , eemed to be com m ple tely commerci a lised . And the s a e thing is tru e of all other Swiss resor ts . Inter laken m r u m m r has beco e a glo ified s e resort , with its f an d a - r u gol l wn tennis g o nds , its crowds of a a r mon dai n es m u f shion bly d essed , its sic , a u an d u n g mbling , b ying selling , with the au a o f u au stained be ty lone the J ngfr , in the a distance , lending ench ntment to the scene . 77 THE BIRTHPLACE OF SWISS LIBERTY

A Significant in stance of this state of things is r a a the insc iption p inted on the benches , sc t tered a r a long the p omenades of Interl ken , ” au x E a Réservés trangers (for str ngers only) . The poor native , whose ancestors for fifteen hundred years have lived among these ever him lasting hills , has no right to sit down on one of these sea ts . T n u here is somethi g depressing abo t crowds , something at once irrita ting an d sordid ; an d u u an d u an d a the h rry , the p shing p lling qu rrel a a are ling to get the best pl ces , th t seen so - a u o u t often to day in Switzerl nd , seem wof lly Of pl ace a mid the qu iet grandeu r of the high

. L u sat S ra u in Alps ast s mmer I for eve l ho rs , r a a t i f ont of the st tion Scheidegg , watch ng the crowds as they descended from the train a L r u ran a th t arrived from aute br nnen , cross the tracks to the pl ace where the J u ngfrau a w as a u r ilroad w iting , and then on their ret rn u a a an d rushing with eq l e gerness , often rude a a a in varia ness , to get pl ces in the c rs , lmost a n bly too few , wh ich were to t ke them dow to

a . was a u a at Grindelw ld I th nkf l th t I , least ,

. a in evita was not in a hurry Yet , fter all , the ble lessening of one ’ s enjoyments of these noble a r u landscapes by the e ger c owds of to rists , 78

THE BIRTHP LACE OF SW ISS LIBERTY

an d m a history , fro the lives of the patron s ints

Lu . Leode ar . u . of cerne , St g and St Ma rice Th e Water T ower near this bridge was once believed to be a Rom an light-hou se (l u cerna) n whence , as some thi k , the name of the city . T a his , however , is mere tr dition , and no one - really believes it to d ay. In th e Spreu er Brii cke u 1 408 a are b ilt in , the p nels deco ra D a of D a u ted with the nce e th , a pop lar su bject in the Middl e Ages . As we look on these qu aint old pictu res we can h ave no a L better interpreter of them th n ongfellow , in his H yperion In alm ost all langu ages is it wr itten — the apparition of the grim r u a u all u spect e p tting s dden stop to b siness , ‘ an d leading m en aw ay into the rem arkable ’ retir ement of the grave . It is written in an a a a ncient Sp nish poem , and p inted on a wooden bridge in Switzer l and . The designs - h of Holbein are well known . T e most strikin g a a u mong them is th t where , from a gro p of r r u a a r D child en sitting o nd cott ge hea th , eath has taken one by the h and an d is leading it o u r u t of the door . Q ietly and un esisting u goes the little child , and in its co ntenance bu t i h l no grief, wonder only ; wh le the other c i dr en are weeping an d stretching forth their 80

THE BIRTHPLACE OF SW ISS LIBERTY

a of the city , the blue w ters of the lake , with a - a the ste mers going and coming , the row bo ts , n an d far-a movi g here there , the way whistle a u ai of the Pil t s r lroad , all give one the feeling

a . a a o of a holid y festival Some ye rs g , how h ad an i n i ever , I opportun ty of seei g the str k in g difference between the life of the town in n r su mmer an d in winter . I was comi g f om r w a a an d the no th on my y to It ly , stopped at ar over night one of the l ge hotels , where I r a m an d a could sca cely get roo , ne rly froze a k u in the one they gave me . I took a w l thro gh a wa the streets . A bitter cold bl st s blowing r i f om the lake , everyth ng had a deserted look , l no strangers could be seen , the hote s were a a a rr closed , the n tives who were bro d hu ied a in long with hands pocket , and coat collars tu rned up . But in su mmer tim e no pleasanter place in the world can be fou nd th an Lu cerne and a all is its environs . For fter the town itself ’ not the chief object of the travell er s interest ; it is ra ther a startin g place fo r inn umerable r a r t ips on the l ke itself , or to the va ious points of view . Of a r a is these l tter , the one nea est at h nd G ii tsch a i the , h ll to the west of the city, 82 THE BIRTHP LACE OF SW ISS LIBERTY reached by a cable tra mw ay in a few minutes and affording a very beau tifu l view of the

a R an d . T l ke , the igi , the higher Alps hen u a a u there is the mo nt in Pil t s , which rises , as a m r u a a it seems , l ost pe pendic l rly cross the ' a an d in u a l l ke , clo dy we ther seems a most h a abou t to fa ll u pon the tow n . T e n me Pila tu s is probably der ived from the m ediaeval La r i leatus tin wo d , p , hooded , given to it from the ca p or cover ing of clou d on its u r m at s mmit , f o which it is seldom free , least

fo r a ar r d a . L r p t of eve y y egend , howeve , an d r -m the spi it of myth aking , which is r at r h as m u eve ywhere wo k , connected the o n a am u a t in with the n e of Ponti s Pil te , whose r a au r u m spi it is s id to h nt its ocky s mit , o r at least w as said to do so befor e the modern r ail road with its noise an d bu stle m ade it u n a a all as n ple s nt for ghosts , who , is well know , r love chiefly to f eq u ent lonely pl aces . Before the conqu est of the high mou nta ins by the r u r a m r u a was mode n to ist , l ost eve y mo nt in au T believed to be h nted by evil spir its . h u s we read in the be au tifu l song of Mignon in ’ Wi lhelm Meister Goethe s , how

In H o en o n des D ra en a e Bru hl w h t ch lt t, (In cavern s dwells the a n ci en t brood o f dr ago n s) ; 83 THE BIRTHP LACE OF SW ISS LI BERTY

W m r u an d Mr . hy pe fo nd in his efforts to clim b the M a tterhor n no slight difficu lty in over u u ar coming the s perstitio s fe s of the gu ides . As I write this I h ave befor e me a q u aint old Germ an book of legends in which the story of Pila te is given : how fu ll of despair an d re r a a a u r b e mo se fter the de th of the S vio , com m itte d su icide ; how the Emperor order ed the body to be placed in a sack an d su nk into the river T iber ; how the sack wou ld not Sink into a m a u u the w ter nor re in ndergro nd , and how evil spi r its wou ld ra ise it in the air ; how storm an d u r an d tempest , th nde and lightning floods arose wherever it w as pl aced ; how the body w as b rou ght fr om Rom e to Sou th France an d fl u ng into the river Rhone near the city of Vienne ; how the boa ts th a t passed this pl ace wou ld Sink an d be destroyed ; u ntil the body w as a u a a an d a ac t ken p g in , the s ck with the cu rsed body of Pil a te w as carr ied to a high mou ntain between the towns of Lu cerne an d r a an d a Unte w lden , there in deep pond , a a w as u an d r lo ded with he vy stones , s nk ; eve y year on Good Friday his spirit rises an d S its u u a pon the J dgment se t , as if he were deliver ing j u dgment ; an d the inh abitants of Lu cerne set wa tchmen d ay an d night near the same 84

THE BIRTHP LACE OF SW ISS LIBERTY

r r pool , to p event any one f om casting stones o r i if pieces of wood nto the pond , for this is a r an d a - done , gre t sto ms w ter spouts arise and ” ru c dea th an d dest tion follow .

- T o d a r . a u y, howeve , Mt Pil t s is one of the most popu l ar of all the fa m ou s view - points of - n Switzerl and . It is reached by a rack a d a r a ar r a pinion r il o d , which st ts f om Alpn ch a a a Bril n i a r a far st d , st tion on the g r il o d , not a am au u as from Lu cer ne . P ssing ong be tif l p u an d r r u t res fo ests on its lowe slopes , thro gh u r a a t nnels , over deep go ges , we fin lly re ch r a a au E a ma n if the b o d pl te of the sel , where g n ice t view is seen . Far m u a a a u an d far ore pop l r th n the Pil t s , m L r more fa ou s is the Rigi . ong befo e many u a r r a r of the pop l r reso ts we e even he d of, the Rigi w as known ; an d to- d ay this Qu een u a as u i r r of the mo nt ins , some wo ld nte p et

a R ! R a Mo n tiu m the n me ( igi egin ) , is one a u u of the most f mo s mo ntains of the world . For while it is not so high as scores of other u Swiss mo ntains , yet its position between the a Lu r Z u an d L three l kes of ce ne , g, owerz a m m kes it a u niqu e point of view . Fro its u ku lm a t a s mmit or , one can see parts , le st , all a of nearly the Swiss c ntons , and even 85 THE BIRTHPLACE OF SW ISS LIBERT

r u l a far beyond the f ontiers of neighbo ring ds.

E r o u r u i t ve ywhere eyes rest on bl e l es ,

u r l a a rk flo ishing vi l ges , green meadows ,

r a r a far tcthe fo ests , cle r unning stre ms ; off a to p s north is the gre t plain , with its cities , ,

an d u a 0 1 rivers , sh t in by the mount ins the a an d all a h o riz o n 3ast Bl ck Forest ; long the ,

u n eri in and south and west , is the great g ch ain of m ou ntains rolling on like w aveS ) f a migh ty sea ; while a t o u r feet we see iI full La Lu an d wid in relief the ke of cerne , all its g L Fl l n shores from ucerne to ii e e . No wonder this fa mo u s view -point so popu lar (more th a n one h u ndred tho uan d r people visit it in the course of the summe , for f au u bu t I it not only a fords be tif l views , the most easily and comfortably reached ro un - a 1763 ta in top in Switzerl a nd . A s e rly as

' R a ZiIrich a a the igi was visited by P stor , esi , an d a a to rists from th t time on , occ sional a 1 860 i said visited it , until , tow rd the year , it that from th irty tho u sa nd to for ty tho san d - persons wou ld climb the steep p a th to n joy 111871 the view at its summit . It was not ti , racl- however , that the newly invented and pinion system for mou nta in railroad was u R th ree ears successf lly applied to the igi , y 86

THE BIRTHPLACE OF SW ISS LIBERTY

r ur a far beyond the f ontiers of neighbo ing l nds . E r o u r u a verywhe e eyes rest on bl e l kes ,

u l a s a ar flo rishing vi l ge , green me dows , d k r a u a far o ff fo ests , cle r r nning stre ms ; to the r a a W north is the g e t pl in , ith its cities , towns , an d r r u u a ive s , sh t in by the mo nt ins of the a r an d all a Bl ck Fo est ; along the horizon , e st u an d n and so th west , is the great unendi g ch ain of mou ntains r olling on like waves of a mighty se a ; while at o u r feet we see in fu ll l La Lu r an d all n i re ief the ke of ce ne , its wi d ng r m L F shores f o ucerne to lii elen . No wonder this famou s view- point is so popu l ar (more th a n one h u ndred thou sand v ur u m people isit it in the co se of the s mer) , for nl a au u bu t it not o y ffords be tif l views , is the most easily and comfor tably reached m oun - ar as 1 6 tain top in Switzerl and . As e ly 7 3 R i a r a r Pa the igi was v sited by Zu ich P sto , esi , r a o ccasio n al ur i and f om th t time on , to sts u 1 860 visited it , ntil , toward the year , it is said th a t fr om thir ty thou s a nd to for ty thou sa nd per sons wou ld climb the steep path to enjoy

at u . w as l 1 871 the view its s mmit It not ti l ,

r a n a -an d howeve , th t the newly i vented r ck pinion system for mou ntain ra ilroads w as a R r r successfully pplied to the igi , th ee yea s 86 THE BIRTHPLACE OF SW ISS LI BERTY after the sim il ar system had been installed on

W a W u a . Mt . shington in the hite Mo nt ins The Rigi h as been celeb rated co u ntless tim es in prose an d poetry ; distingu ished men of every w alk in life h ave visited this fam ou s

- a su n o r . view point , to w tch the rise set As r r u a r we sit he e on this b ight s mmer fte noon , o u r im agin a tion conj u res u p som e of the

figu res which h ave been here in the past . Some h ave been im pressed to deep solemnity ; m a arr m a so e h ve c ied with the sentiment l love , which seems st rangely o u t of pl ace am id s u ch

as . . a r m scenes , when J G Holl nd w ote his poe “ O n R entitled the igi , in which we find the lines

O n the R -K u m we sa t igi l ,

Lo e Flo ribel an d I v ly , Pl u cki ng bl u e -bells fo r he r hat

Fr m a mo u n d a o m o th t bl sso ed n igh . ‘ ’ W e a re n ea r to Hea e n she ed v , sigh ,

W e he r ra en a e e hil v l sh s f ll , ‘ ’ Nea rer o I re ed , s ftly pli , ‘ ’ ’ n the m u n a n e Tha o t i s h ight may te ll .

In refreshing contrast to the u nconsciou s humor of this sentim ental poem is the description ’ of T ar tar in s appearance at the fashion able at u m u u hotel the K l , in f ll mo ntain costume , 87 THE BIRTHPLACE OF SW ISS LIBERTY

- with Alpenstock and ice axe , and heavily ’ spiked shoes ' or that of Mark N ain s three a R or four d ys ascent of the igi , and his vain ” “ a u a n ttempt to see the s nrise , rrivi g at the ” ex hibition ground only when the su n was “ O n o u r wa u well u p. y p we met the crowd an d in returning , men women dressed all u an d x sorts of queer cost mes , e hibiting all degrees of cold an d wr etchedness in their A gaits an d cou nten ances . dozen still re a mained on the ground when we re ched there , u a u aff h ddled together bo t the sc old , with their b acks to the bitter win d . They had their red guide books open at the diagr am of V ie an d a fu the w , were p in lly picking out the several mountains and trying to impress n their name a d position on their memories . ” It was one of the saddest sights I ever saw . ' Of all a u r a the phases of n t re in Switze l nd , none is more famous or more beau tifu l than Ea a u a ar its l akes . ch one has pec li r ch m of

Zu u C a . its own , Geneva , g, Z rich , and onst nce r a a It is p ob ble , however , th t most people would agree in saying that Lake Lu cerne is The u the most beau tifu l of them all . colo r of its w a ter is of a deeper blu e th an that of the u a u a rest , the mo nt ins rise more perpendic l rly 88

THE BIRTHPLACE OF SW ISS LIBERTY

an d all a a from its surface , bout is the ch rm of m a history and legend . W e find any tr ces of all this in the works of grea t poets of all n a tions . a a r a As we sh ll see l ter , the whole uppe p rt of ’ the l ake is fu ll of reminiscences of Schiller s

Wi lliam Tell . The pec u li ar sh ape of the lake is given u u r r acc rately by A b ey de Ve e ,

In a e a ro an d a ed so sh p c ss , w ll with cliffs high , ’ a o er ea a e o f a u ad ru e a n Th t ch isl th t q pl pl i , No u nfi ro o a ear the au ed sk t f pp s v lt y,

e a a an d r a a e n an e It li s, v st c yst l p v f ,

A u r b n a u re u an d n o t in ain ch ch , y t b ilt v ” Amo n g the shadowi n g m o u n ta i n s .

L E C m Ro ongfellow , dwin Arnold , a pbell , g ers and m any others h ave tou ched on variou s a au La Lu r su r ph ses of the be ty of ke ce ne , rou nded as it is by the Fou r Forest Cantons rm a am Vierw aldstattersee (whence its Ge n n e , ) W r a h as a im o dsworth , especi lly , reve led his as a r u pressions he p ssed th o gh these scenes , a a an d r in his ch r cteristic solemn eflective style , r ar u a R u eflections o sed by the V lley of the e ss , ’ L Uri T C a r E ake , ell s h pel , Unte walden , ngel

r . be g , and Schwyz Th e sh ape of Lake Lu cerne is very irregu l ar bu t R a a , seen from the igi , it ppe rs some 89 THE BIRTHPLACE OF SW ISS LIBERTY

a thing like cross , with the end of the foot bent at La almost right angles , this bend being ke

- Uri . I ts length is twenty three miles an d its

- width varies from one half mile to two miles . Its waters ba the portions of four of the most a a ncient cantons of Switzerl nd , Uri , Schwyz ,

a an d Lu . O n Unterw lden , cerne both sides of it rise the two pyra mids of the Rigi an d a u all a u Pil t s , long its shores are flo rishing vill ages . Rapid stea mbo a ts l aden with tou r ists are constantly sailing up and down ; for in su mmer tim e there is a service between Ln an d lii elen cerne F , at the other end of the

a m a d a . l ke , eight ti es y I know of no more a a u a a d a a ple s nt exc rsion , on bright cle r y, th n to take one of these steamer s at the Schweizer a r a u hof qu y , get a comfo t ble seat on the pper

an d a a . Th e deck , prep re for good time bell r r rings , the wate is chu ned up behind , we rapidly leave behind u s the town with its big h hotels an d slender ch u rch towers . T e sky u air bu t is bl e , the cool , tempered with the n w arm rays of the su mmer su n . O board the a an air bo t of festivity reigns ; men , women , and childr en are engaged in conversa tion ; excl am ations of admir a tion bu rst from those a a who are lovers of n ture , the b nd begins to 90

THE BIRTHPLACE OF SW ISS LIBERTY more leisure and comfort than can be had by a a rem ining on the ste mer . For here in the u a a l La so thern arm of the l ke , c l ed ke Uri , a an d n n ture , history , legend poetry combi e a in to a gre ter extent than elsewhere , even a a u a t Switzerl nd , to attr ct the c ltiv ted ravel

. The W i a T ler story of lli m ell , mere legend u n b tho gh it be , seems to i vest with a su tle a a a Th e ch rm every object in the l ndsc pe . one poet who has given world -wide cur rency a -d a a an to the legend , so th t to y sc rcely edu cated man in the civilised world is ignora nt r am h as of it , is Sch iller , whose d a done more th a n an y other book to make Switzerl and a r a n a sh ine for literary pilgrims . It is si gu l r fact th a t the author of a work so fu ll of exact description never saw the l and he describes . a a ai r M ny of his f cts he obt ned f om Goethe , whose three visits m ade him acqu ainted with l a a l ph ases of Switzer l and . Few poets h ve described the ch arm of Swiss scenery so well au as Schiller . Any one who has been c ght in u m o the s dden stor , the F hn , so frequent an d a La a ai so d ngerous on ke Uri , c nnot f l to a dmir e the accu racy of detail an d the general ’ e flect of Sch iller s description of the same . Never h as a poet described so gr aphically 92

THE BIRTHPLACE OF SW ISS LIBERTY

a a a r time as we w lk along this rem rk ble oad . O n e place we ca nnot fail to visit is the little

a Ax en ber ledge of rock , at the b se of the g, ’ T a a a known as ell s Pl tte , which is st tion on the St . Gotthard r ailro ad . This is the spot a T where , according to tr dition , ell leaped ashore from the bo a t in which he was being

a o ff a a r r c rried s prisone by Gessler . It sha es Rii tli a with the , on the other side of the l ke , the glory of being one of the chief objects of r a all the piou s pilg im ge of lovers of freedom . O n a a a u this sm ll ledge there is ch pel , reb ilt 1 883 a r a a in , on the site of nothe ch pel , s id to h ave been er ected by the ca nton Uri in 13 88 . Th e inter ior of the ch apel is a dorned by four r Stackelber r f escoes by g, representing , fi st , m a - a at u the scene in the rket pl ce Altdorf , j st ’ after Tell h as shot the apple fr om his son s a a he d , when Gessler , seeing the second rrow an d ar a fo r le ning th t it was destined him , in h ad a l is r n case Tell sl in his own chi d , orde i g

a a . N the rrest of the p triot ext , we see the ’ scene at Tell s Pla tte itself; Tell has j u mped a u a a shore , p shed b ck the bo t into the angry a a n w ters of the l ke with his foot , leavi g Gessler

m ad a m ar . with dis ppoint ent and rage , and fe T a hen comes the scene in the Hohle G sse, 94 T HE BI RTHP LACE OF SW ISS LI BERT Y where Tell lay in w ait fo r the tyr ant an d shot he a r him th ro u gh the he ar t . T fin l f esco depicts the histo ric scene at Bi rth ; the th ree a r Stau flach er Fii rst a n d m an p t iots , , the r m a r r a f o Melchi , st nd with thei ight h nds an d r a a r raised thei left h nds cl sped togethe ,

ar E r as C m a swe ing to keep the ve l ting o p ct , r- th a t co rne stone of Swiss liber ty . The Ax e n strasse a a s fa r Flii ele n at le ds as , u r a m r the so the n end of the l ke , eight iles f om ru r a m can B nnen , whe e , if we h ve the ti e , w e a a an d a n u a t ke the tr in , in few mi tes re ch

r a an d a a a a . T Altdo f , mile h lf w y his is the pl ace where Tell perform ed his exhibition of skilled archery on the apple ; his bi rthplace a a ur a is s id to be the little vill ge of B glen ,

m a a . a u r r ile w y A st t e in b onze , rep esenting r an d a the he o his son , st nds now on the spot r o where the apple w as shot . Some yea s ag I w as witness of a pleasa nt scene in this q u iet m a . u little vill ge A n ber of schoolboys , led r a r h ad m a by thei te che s , come on a pilgri ge to h Altdorf . They ad gone the rou nd of sight had a o f an d seeing , seen the old fl gs Uri , Ca u m a r an d a the p chin on ste y , now g thered piou sly abou t the statu e an d listened to a p atr iotic lectu re by one of the teachers an d 95 THE BIRTHPLACE OF SW ISS LIBERTY

a a then , with b red he ds , sang songs expressive r of love for the Fathe land . Bu t we h ave lingered enou gh in these a a an d u u ch rming pl ces , m st h rry back to u fo r r a Br nnen , we have one more t ip to m ke , the most enjoyable of all . Instead of taking a a u s the ste mbo t , which stops only a few min te a an d i a n at each st tion , nste d of joini g the a ur e ger , noisy crowd of to ists , whose constant ch a tter in all Eur opea n l anguages disturbs the medita tion and rever ence which ou ght to a a o u r a a ccomp ny visits to these pl ces , h llowed by n a tu re an d by pa triotic memories an d by art u far , we wo ld do better to hire one of the u a n merous rowbo ts , and row out over the

a . W e m u a a l ke st t ke c re , however , that the o a u s hi s r F hn does not c tch , for t d eaded wind u a l swoops down pon the w ters , a most without ar a a w ning , l shes the waters of the l ke into a u u u a an d tum lt o s mass of w ves , renders all r a O n a a n aviga tion f au ght with d nger . cle r d a i asa y, however , noth ng is ple nter than this boa t ride over Lake Uri ; the dar k bl u e waters sparkle in the su nlight ; far to the north the irregu l ar outline of the shores fa des away in the distance ; nearer at h and we see the gree n r an d slopes of Seelisbe g , , dominating all , the 96

THE BIRTHPLACE OF SW ISS LIBERTY

- W r Uri Ro thsto ck . e cross to the other side , ski t a r u r a s a the long the pe pendic la w ll , p ss by M then ste in a r i y , ock eighty feet h gh , bearing “ ” the inscr iption D e m Sanger Tells (to the T an d a m a Poet of ell) , fin lly co e to the l nding a as is a Rii tli pl ce whence the cent m de to the , a m n sloping eadow , or openi g in the forest , as

i a am . As is ndic ted by its n e everybody knows , th is 15 the spot where on the night of November 7 1307 r - hr m en an d r , , thi ty t ee met swo e to d rive o u t their oppressors . Ju st as at T re a ar R m o u Font ne ne o e , they show y three m r r a . au sp ings , fo ed by the he d of St P l , a w as a a ru which , fter he dec pit ted , st ck the r u r m r a re r g o nd th ee ti es , so he e we shown th ee r ar a r a a rm sp ings of cle w te , s id to h ve been fo ed on the spot where the thr ee grea t patriots ' Sta u flacher u an d m an r m stood , , F rst , the f o

Melchi . It is h ard to ind u lge in revery an d poetry in the m idst of the constant stream of travellers com ing an d going ; a n d yet a shor t visit to these fam ou s sh r ines of Sw iss liber ty c a nnot help tou ching deeply o u r hearts an d im agin a tion . And as the sh ades of evening come u pon u s as su n m u a , the sets behind the o nt ins , the a o u t st rs come , a cool breeze blows over the 97 THE BIRTHPLACE OF SWISS LIBERTY

an d a u lake , we row b ck softly to Br nnen , the a o ur spirit of the pl ce sinks deep into hearts , a n an d the wor ds of Mrs. Hem ns rise un co scio u sly to o ur m in ds :

“ Th e Pa tr i o t Three that m et o fyo re

Benea the midn sk th ight y,

d ea u ed e r ea r o n the G rutli o re An l g th i h ts sh , In the n am e o f l iber ty! No w sil en tly th ey slee p

Ami dst the hills th ey freed .

Bu t e ir re o nl dee th st is y p, ’ e r un r u r f Till th i co t y s ho o need . ’ Fo r the K uhr e ihen s n o tes m u st n ever so un d

In a an d a ea r the c a n l th t w s h i , ’ An d the vin es o n H eed o m s ho ly gro un d U n trampled m u st rema in ! An d th e ye llo w ha rvests wave ’ Fo r n o ran er and to rea st g s h p, Whil e with in th eir sil en t ca ve ” u tli The men o f G r sl eep.

BERN AND ITS ENVIRONS a a r an d a u an u an a t ke the ste me , in bo t ho r d h alf are set ashore at Interl aken . This famou s a as am a u pl ce , its n e indic tes , occ pies the little

' a u a a o u a be ll vial pl in c lled the B deli , sit ted o f T u an d tween the twin lakes h n Brienz . T o -d ay it is one of the most popu lar an d h fashionable of all Swiss r esor ts . T e m ain r Hoh ew e a ar st eet , the g, is fl nked by l ge and a handsome hotels , by shops for the s le of - a an d r u r a wood c rving va io s t inkets , by d nce a u r a a a h lls and by the K s al , th t indispens ble a u all Eur a r dj nct of ope n resorts , whe e the convention a l band 1s always pl aying and the well known an d r ather mild for m of gam

i les eti ts chevau x bl ng , p (the little horses) , is D u a lways in active opera tion . ring the whole season this famou s street is cr owded with ar an d a a visitors from all p ts of the world , lw ys on the horizon between the steep cliffs th at shu t in the v alley of Lau ter bru nnen is seen m the snowy su mm it of the fa ou s J u ngfrau . a a as r a l Ple s nt Inte l ken is in itse f , it is chiefly im portant as a centre fo r a ll sor ts of excu rsions .

Bu t u a u s , before we enter pon these , it will p y to spend some tim e in visiting Bern . This is a an easily done , for the old town is less th n ’ hou r s ride from Th u n by r ailroad . 1 00 BERN AND ITS ENVIRONS

In the ru sh to get throu gh the regu l ar Swiss a u u in round , tr vellers s ally slight this most Bu i terestin g old town . t they l ttle know the A a ch arm th a t it contains . mong the pleas nt est mem ories of the ma ny Swiss sojou r ns it h a s u been my good fort ne to enjoy , none is more pleasant th an the m onth spent in Bern som e

r a o . T w as a a a r u s yea s g here ple s nt pa ty of , am m was r a a i ong who there one Ame ic n f m ly , ha d m d a tw o a n d who co e to spend a y or , W h a h ad ended by spending a month . e d an ar a excellent bo ding pl ce , in the Pension m Her ter on the Kr a gasse . This is situ ated

‘ u an d in one of the oldest ho ses of Bern , is still the meeting-place for the gu ild of gold an d m r silvers iths , whose membe s consist of am the oldest f ilies of the city , some of them u a o r ix n r nning b ck five s h u ndr ed years . O e of my neighbou rs at the table belonged to am u am i Mulin en the f o s noble f ly of Von , which d a tes fr om the very foundation of the city . For the history of Bern is as fu ll of glory as th a t of a n y of the repu blics of ancient or r mode n times . In the ear ly centu ries of the Middle Ages the larger par t of the present Canton of Ber n w as a part of the kingdom 101 BERN AND ITS ENVIRONS

r a of Bu gundy , and later c me under the sover ei n t the D s a g y of uke of Z hringen , whose

a a u . 1 191 he dqu rters were in B rgdorf In , V u Berchtold fo nded the city of Bern , which l a r i h ad o u t after the ine of the Z h ngen died , Th e won its independence . city increased r a so rapidly in property and powe , th t soon th e i m ghtiest sta tes sou ght its all i ance . In 1 2 18 E r i , the mperor Frederick II ecogn sed it as a free imper i al city ; and we h ave seen 1339 u Ru l how in , nder the command of do f Er von lach they, with help from the Forest Ca a t ntons , won the victory the battle of

Lau . 1353 a pen In it joined the confeder tion , and fr om tha t time on has had its sh are in the m develop ent of the Swiss n a tion . So pleas ant were the memor ies left by my r in a a previous sojou n Bern , th t l st summer when the opportu ni ty came to revisit Switzer a m l nd , I deliberately put aside the te ptation to use the time in genera l travel an d settled in a i m a once more Bern , m k ng , however , ny trips from here as a centr e . An d after all this is the only way to get the rest th at ou ght to be the chief object of a v aca tion ; an d it is the only way to get gen u ine Wh a u d a a enjoyment . en we travel bo t y fter 1 09

BERN ANDITS ENVIRONS

e ‘ ts Ra u n die Wd len Z e en Do ch plotz lich schw igt sche , i h

e l is, Durchs schone Talgel ti nded urch G runer Ma tten Kreis ; ’ Hier rag't auf wal d gem l ye] ein Sto lz es Jiigerschlo ss Drin weilet Herzo g Be rchb ld mi t se inen

a s i ro mo n All round , the slop of th s high p e wit l - tory ar covered we l kept grassy lawns , while here an d ther lofty terraces are built ban ks fo rm in up on stone , g a sort of park , planted wi th trees ad flowers and command g of the in beau tiful views th e river below , vallevs t imm e i o hi lls and of he d ate c untry , while the snowy raq e of the Bern ese O ber “ an in se m: n l d , a literal lend encha tment to ” the view . 1\Iost of the stree b in the older par t of the e- alleies i t s ar town have sid g , w h ma sive ches , under which one c at wal k for lon g dis tances

x h en the t e . under cover , e cept crossing s r ets This system of archs under th e houses is

' 1 T rou ro es of d ark- fi r- rou the meadow h gh g v gm tree . th gh s er reen ro u en l e d n of il l w ere ove ower are light g . th gh g t i h s. h l ly fl s n Aa ee ; the r, oam n reak assa e fo r i el f ro m the sham of s f i g, b s p g ts f In ke Thun z o n its bank the de stan d an d i ten where the come l s . y to uen se q ch their a im. Then adeniy the roar of the waters ca ; th e waves flow nn d the circl e of gmen mea d e wooded snmmit of a il a ro ud a e r s h l p c stl ise . his reti nu f e o knights .

BERN AND ITS ENVIRONS

Do lotzlich e d as Rau en die W e Z ch p schw igt sch , ll en ieh en

e l is,

D ur o ne Tal elan de dur G rii ner K ' chs sch g , ch Matten re is ’ Hier ragt auf wald gem Huge l ein Sto lzes Jagerschl o ss ” 1 D rin weil et Her o Berchtho ld mit e n en Rittertr z g s i o ss.

ro m o n All around , the slopes of this high p are - a a tory covered with well kept gr ssy l wns , while here an d ther e lofty terraces are bu ilt

k i a r up on stone ban s , form ng sort of pa k , pl anted with trees and flowers an d comm and in u r g beautif l views of the rive below , the an d a i a u hills v lleys of the mmedi te co ntry , while the snowy ra nge of the Bernese O ber “ in a a a land , liter l sense lend ench ntment to ” the view . Most of the streets in the older p art of the a - a r a a town h ve side g lle ies , with m ssive rches , under which one can w alk for long dista nces u r n nder cover , except when c ossi g the streets . This system of arches u nder the houses is

’ l Throu h ro e o f dar k- reen fir- ree ro u the meado w g g v s g t s, th gh s i er ree n ro u en l e a n of il w ere o e ower are l ght g , th gh g t ch i s h ls , h l v ly fl s een the Aar o ami n reak a as a e fo r e ro m the o res o f s ; , f g, b s p s g its lf f sh Lak e T un o n its ank the dee r tan d an d i en w er e o me h ; b s l st , h e th y c T n u dd nl th ar f wa to q uench their thirst . he s e y e ro o the ters cease the wa es flow o ro u the ea u ifu an d a e o f the al e v s ftly th gh b t l l sc p v l y, w an d the circl e ofgreen meadows . Here on the ood ed summit o f a il a ro ud a e r es the res den e of D uke Berchtho ld an d h l p c stl is , i c his retinue ofknights .

BERN AND ITS ENVIRONS has been chiefly dir ected to objects of public “ utility , and how by the side of those gigantic a fin e u a an d terr ces , of those fo nt ins , noble m l shades , you see only si ple and solid dwe l ”

an a . ings , yet scarcely y begg rly ones These m a are u au i re rks here q oted , bec se of the r -d a a a fitness to describe the Bern of to y, fter a ar u r l pse of ne ly one h ndred yea s . How ma ny other cities have rem a ined so tru e to the traditions of the past ? Especially wor thy i in i d a of renewed emphas s , th s y of noisy and u bustling cities , is the q iet dignity which t i l r -d a as u s r kes the trave ler in Be n to y, it str ck

- M. Sim on d in a 1 81 7 a the ye r , its we lth , its l a a a a si ence, the bsence of bustle , cert in st teli ness and reserved demeanou r in the in h abit i ants , and the whole sp rit which shows that a u r ltho gh it is rich , it is not prima ily a money making town . Never sh all I forget the qu iet d ays spent at i u u a Bern , wander ng thro gh its q int streets , with the sidewa lks bu ilt under the upper stories u u r m s of the ho ses , s ppo ted by i mense arche The - i an d pillars . shop w ndows are attract ar t ive , filled with objects of , carved wood , he an d other sou venir s of Switzer l and . T are u u a streets pict resq e , with their h ndsome 100

BERN AND ITS ENVIRONS

L a so - a was ater on , c lled tent mission held ra r u for seve l weeks , in which some th ee tho sand ear nest people listened to old-time preach n ing of the Gospel . O one occ asion I h ad an r u n a u a oppo t nity of seei g the n t r l , inborn cou rtesy of these stu rdy people ; a great crowd m r a filled the tent , men and wo en we e st nding

all ar u a an d a . o nd , in the isles , behind the se ts Fr om tim e to time a m an or wom a n would u an d in get p, beckon to some one standing , a a a a a sist on his or her t king se t , so th t ne rly everybody h ad a ch ance to sit down d u ring a par t of the service . O n Su nday the shops are closed more tightly than in Engl and and it is difficu lt at tim es even to find a cafe or cigar stor e open . The qu iet n atu r e of the Swiss is seen a lso in the way in which they celebra te the first of

u u r a a . h ad r A g st , thei n tional holid y I p evi o u sly seen the way in which Paris celebra tes a u u the French holid y , the Fo rteenth of J ly , h ad seen the booths set u p in all the bou le vard s an d u u a a u the p blic sq res , the c rro sels , a th e r petty g mbling establishments , t ained a r a a a i an d fle s , the c owds th t dr nk their bs nthe r u a ve mo th on the sidew lks before the cafés , an d especially the m ad c ar niv al of da ncing on 1 08 BERN AND ITS ENVIRONS

the pu blic streets all night long . Here in Bern d u r ing the d ay bu siness went on as u su al ; bu t r r r r illu m i in the evening the e we e fi ewo ks , an d r a ll u a n d nation , conce ts , done q ietly withou t noisy dem onstra tion . And yet no one wo u ld d are to deny pa triotism to the Swiss . Most delightfu l hou rs can be p assed in the a au u Kleine Sch nze , with the be tif l view of the Bernese O berl and before u s ; on the Munster Terrace w atching the child ren a t pl ay ; o r wandering along the r iver an d over the bridges m in the su bu rbs . Nothing is ore striking than the w ay in which Bern h a s m ade a a ar u rr u verit ble p k of all its s o ndings , the a r a all ar u n are a river b nks , the o ds o d , ne t ,

ar u a r r r c ef lly swept , do ned with b ight g een m lawns an d beds of flowers . My ho e is in one m au u Ne w E a of the ost be tif l towns of ngl nd , bu t a year o r so ago when I retu r ned from r a a ru m e m w as ab o d , the thing th t st ck ost the contrast between su ch pl aces as Ber n an d m r a a r r most A e ic n cities , the l tte with thei

a r u ar u a r a sh nties sp inging p o nd the r il o d , r u r r r a thei often ncleaned st eets , thei o ds a u e a n d r a fl nked by nsightly ditch s , thei stre ms u ncared fo r an d u nimproved . O u r o u t K ram asse room opened on the g , 109 BERN AND ITS ENVIRONS

which is one of the busiest streets of Bern . There was a little iron ba lcony ou tside the i u w ndow , and one co ld sit literally for hours watching the scene below . There was a fou n a u r all t in below , the only so ce from which the inhabita nts of the neighbou r ing hou ses cou ld a r obt in their wate , and to and from which a constant su ccession of women and chil dr en were going and coming . It was in the early a Fall , and the old heredit ry citizens of the a town enjoyed , as one of their prerog tives , the privilege of getting their fu el fr om the mu nicipal forests . So all day long we saw them s awing an d chopping the logs in the open street . There are a good m any things to see in

- Bern , the old clock tower , with its moving u u fig res , which come out at the end of the ho r ; a u a - O W the f mo s be r pits , which liver endell Holmes says were the only things he remem a a bered of the pl ce ; the Feder l building , the

T a Ca r a . T own libr ry , and the old thed l hen there is the fa mou s view of the Alps from the S a a a a Kleine ch nze , the gre t ttr ction of the town . Bu t there are likewise many delightfu l u a u flo ur trips to the country ro nd bo t , to the 1 10

BERN AND ITS ENVIRONS ing here the graphic description given of the a u r u dep rt re of this fleet , by He r M ller , with a La au whom I dined th t in ngn , in his book D i e Bern ischen Talu er i a u as m f , n sm ch a ong the p assengers were the a ncestors of m any promi a a am an d m a nent Pennsylv ni f ilies , , it y be , of a a r not few of the re de s of this book . It has u r a u been freq ently desc ibed , s ys Herr M ller , a u r a how the exiled S lzb rger P otestants , l den a with their sc nty possessions , crossed the u a r a a an d mo nt ins of thei n tive l nd , with tears a in their eyes , looked b ck to the valleys of their hom e ; it h as been descr ibed how the bands of French em igrants wa ndered over the r r i a a f ontie s of the r n tive l nd singing psalms . O u r friends from the Em menthal an d the O berla nd found no sym pa thy among their fel as r o f a a low Swiss , the towe s the c thedr l of B ale and the wooded heights of the J u ra an d faded in the dist ance . Sitting on boxes u r m b ndles , which we e piled high in the iddle a u ra - r an d of the bo t , co ld be seen g y hai ed men m an d r u wo en , old feeble ; yonde stood the yo ng gazing in wonder at the shores as they slipped m u at by . At ti es they were hopef l , others sad , an d a m a their gl nces oved altern tely , now to the

r u a a a no th , now to the so th , tow rd their b n 1 12

BERN AND ITS ENVIRONS with the blu e wa ters of the Aar flowing around a r u i it ; tow rd the no th , the bl e h lls of the u an d a u J ra , tow rd the so th , the mighty , snow-capped su mmits of the Ber nese Ober a can a a l nd , while to the west , one c tch glimpse of the l akes of Mu rten an d Neui chatel . T W hen there is the little town of orb , seven i a a a m les from Bern , re ched by tr mway , u - u a a prospero s , well b ilt vill ge , with l rge com fortable u r an d n u m ho ses , flou ishing fields , a ber of indu str i al pl ants . From the plea sa ntly a a au u v w located c stle be tif l iew is seen , ith - a u a the snow c pped mo nt ins in the distance . L u a u onger exc rsions can also be m de , s ch a ur u u a as th t to Freib g , pict resquely sit ted on aa both shores of the river S ne , vying with

an d u au u . Bern , not nlike it , in be ty of sit ation Th e great suspension bridge is one of the most imposing wor ks of its kind in Switzer an d r a land , the cathed al , with its m jestic au u m a tower , its be tif l chi e of bells , m ke it wo i ar well worth a visit . T th ngs e of special n in a r a i terest the c thed l of Freiburg , one , the u u a a noble sc lpt res on the m in port l , represent in L m an d a g the ast Judg ent , the m gnificent o far an in rgan , which is superior to y other 1 14 BERN AND ITS ENVIRONS

a b u t r Switzerl nd , second to few in the est of

Eu rope . T r u a hen the e is the city of Bienne , sit ted at u ra u u the foot of the J , with its ho ses b ilt

a n d m a mostly in old style , its wildly ro ntic r a T a u be n schl u ch t m a n fi vine of the , its g i cent a m u - a r a forests , its f o s view point , M colin , e ched a -r a a w r by c ble o d , w hence wide vie ove the

J u ra m o u nta ins is to be b ad . Bu t m a a ll r the ost enjoy ble of t ips , which I u r w a w as took in this leis ely kind of y, to the n o f ar u r r little old tow Schw zenb g , on the f on tie r between the Ca ntons of Bern a n d F rei

m r r u a m . r be g , high p ong the hills Fo e ly this bea u tifu lly loc a ted pl ace w as a l m ost in acces sible ; b u t now a ra il roa d b ri n gs it to the ve ry ga tes of Be rn . It is s u rro u n ded by the finest

a a u r a a n d u a of me dows , p st e l nds , c ltiv ted

a n d a o u r n r fo r ra fields , is fl ishi g cent e ising

r a m the best b eed of c a ttle . It cont ins any u a an d u r u u q int pict esq e old b ildings , in the u r ar u r gen ine Be nese style of chitect e , tow n a r a u u r an d a u h ll , p iv te ho ses , ch ches , s nny , friendly little c astle . It w as a bright an d beau tifu l d ay in late A u gu st when I took the train at Bern an d

o u t a r u r slowly moved c oss the co nt y , passin"g 1 15 W fa BERN AND ITS ENVIRONS

u u s the s burbs , leaving behind the loftily u a a sit ted city , with its cathedr l towering over all a a u , p ssing the Gurten , and then n mber of l a an d a a u vi l ges , gr du lly mo nting the side of l a r the hil s on which Schw rzenbu g is situ ated . a u a I spent sever l ho rs in this lovely pl ce , a m r u u d i ing the bea tiful co ntry on all sides , u a the q aint houses , the b rns built on the side l l an d l hi l , each with its pi e of wood , its pi e of r ar u bu t a r i a manu e o nd it , s ved f om d sagree ble appear ance by the numerous flowers of bril a u i in ar li nt h es , grow ng not only the g den , but a]: the win dows as well . a l r As I w lked along men , women and chi d en u a sa G rii ss wo ld give me friendly nod , and y ” Gott ! the simple bu t tou ching salu tation of u the Swiss peasants . O tside the pretty little a m a w as a castle wo n sitting on bench , sewing , while her childr en were pl aying at her feet . Th e d a an d su n y was cool , bright clear ; the shone softly on the weather-beaten ch alets Schloss a and on the white , making ltogether an exceedingly pleas ant scene . w as a u n All around green grass , cle r r nni g water ; nu merou s groups of childr en were playing ; men an d women were working in the s al w fields and garden , or w king along i th their 1 16

BERN AND ITS ENVIRONS meadow was dotted by the gol d of the harvest an d fields , men women were working in the an d u air a u fields , thro gh the still c me p the u u ar so nd of bells striking the ho r , the sh pen a ing of the scythe on the stone , the c wing of cr ows an d the shou ts an d l au ghter of child ren at pl ay in the distance . I wandered throu gh the q u iet gr aveyard th a t su rrou nds the ch u rch on all sides an d cover s com pletely the pl ateau which for ms the su m a mit of the hill . A gentle mel ncholy stole as a am an d over me , I re d the n es inscriptions o r n the tombstones , whe e

Ea in n arro ell o re er a d ch his w c f v l i ,

re er o fthe a ml e Th e ru de fo fath s h t sl ee p.

Su saw a m a a ddenly I rble pill r , in striking a u m ra r u an d contr st to the h ble g ves a o nd it , “ a a a r : ppro ching , re d this insc iption In loving r R r u a a R memo y of obe t Sydney H nt , c pt in oyal Nav u a u u 3 1 907 y , s ddenly c lled home A g st , — T . . 16 1 8 . aged 63 : Au revoir . I hess IV How w as it th at this distingu ished English man came to be bu r ied in this little grave “ ’ ar far a r a y d , so way f om the M dding crowd s ” r 9 bu t ignoble st ife I know not , surely no more beau tifu l place can be imagined than 1 18 BERN AND ITS ENVIRONS

u this delectable mo ntain , from which to be ” called home . Bu t u a u we m st le ve Bern , however rel ctantly ,

an d a a r a . r h sten b ck to Inte l ken Befo e we go , r u s a a howeve , let scend to the hill of the Sch n zli an d see once more the famou s view of the

. u s r Alps Before lies the city , with the fo est r u an d cove ed G rten beyond , to the left the VVe tte rh o rn long line of the Bernese Alps , the , raar r E r o the Finste ho n , the ige , the M nch , “ an d u rau a u an d a the J ngf , f intly fl shed ph n ” E tom fai r o u the distant hor izon . ven Addison who lived before the d ays of n atu r e an d a u worship , did not c re for snow mo n “ a a m r : T r t ins , d i ed this view he e is the noblest u m r r r m a s m er p ospect in the wo ld f o this w lk , for yo u h ave a fu ll view of a noble range of mou nta ins th at lie in the cou ntry of the G risons !sic] an d are bu ried in snow Mat thew Arnold h as well cau ght the spirit in his poem entitled the Terrace at Ber n

The o u d are o n th e O er a nd cl s b l ,

The Ju n rau no o o k a n and far gf s ws l f i t ,

But r are o e ree n fie d at an d b ight th s g l s h ,

And thro u gh these fields co mes down the Aar .

No wonder the people of Ber n are proud of a a a an d their n tive l nd , or th t they love it are 1 19 BERN AND ITS ENVIRONS ready to die for it ; for in the words of a their songs , in the Bernese di lect

O Schwizerla nd mi He me , i t,

' W as cha me Schoners gseh ? ’ D schnee bai r e e im Sunn - a n g h ll gl z ,

' W 0 isch so n e prachtige Chran z ? ” 1 Ju hee ! Ju hee ! Juhee !

1 0 Sw er and m o me- and itz l , y h l , What can mo re fair be seen ? The snow-summits shin e in the glow o fthe sun ; Where else is such a no ble garland of mo un tains ? All hail ! All hail ! All hail !

THE BERNESE OBERLAND

The old ch u rch buildings h ave still been used u an d for religio s service , the foreigners who have visited Interl aken h ave m ade com mon u se m a m u a of them in the ost h r onio s f shion , the E u r Ca nglish occ pying the choi , the tholics the a an d r a n ve , and the Scotch F ench Protest nts

a a . some of the djoining ch pels At present , a au u u r however , the erection of be tif l new ch ch bu ilding h as rendered this arrangement u n necessary . a Lu ftku r- Interl ken is a flourishing ort , u at a an d with the finest exc rsions close h nd , u a h as m a these , with its own lovely sit tion , de it one of the m ost famou s su mmer resorts in Th e an a a ra the world . chief d never f iling tt e r a u au tion of Inte l ken is the view of the J ngfr , as it is seen at the other end of the Lau ter u a a a u u r a br nnen V lley , view th t is ns p ssed r h as even in Switze land , and which been the su bject of innu merable descriptions in prose n r m au u a d poet y . Perhaps the ost be tif l of Sto fo r d these is the poem of p Brooke , entitled ’ the Ju n gfm u s Cry

1 i r n o f the n o a e ed , v gi s ws, h v liv U n co u n ted yea rs apa rt ;

a ed u n a r an d ea en M t with s light, st s , h v ,

But I am co ld at hea rt . 1 22

T l l E BERNESE O BERLAND a te u r r a a neighbo hood , e ched by short w lks am u r u as l l e im w e b id delightf l scene y , s ch

u Ru ru Uns un n e n Ho b fl h , gen , the ins of p ,

' u a n d r a re r d is b hl , Bonigen ; the e the mo e ta nt t rips s u ch as Bea tenbe rg an d Th u n on the La ke of Th u n ; an d the si m il a r tr ips on m a a o f r a the co p nion l ke B ienz , especi lly the a u a r a a f mo s w te f ll of the Giessb ch , one of the m ost popu l a r of a ll spo ts in the Bern ese O be r a r the r a a r l nd , whe e we see g e t body of w te

a i i n a a r m o le p ng seven c sc des , f o r ck to rock , in the m idst of the d a rk green foli age of t he r a a b a fo est , the tot l height of the f lls eing ne rly o n e tho u s a nd feet . m r a a n d a a d Still o e dist nt . h rd yet excee in gly ple as a nt t rip is th a t of the Schyn ige a a n d Fa u lho rn r a Pl tte the , f om which we get m agnificent ne a r a t h a nd view of the whole range o f Bernese m o u nta ins . M u ch has been s a id of th e Fremden u r r a the a ind st ie of Switze l nd , exploit tion of fo reign to u rists : a n d it is t ru e th a t a l a rge propo rtion of the Sw iss people m a ke a living l in a u from this sou rce . It shows itse f v rio s a fo r th e w ys . in the keeping of hotels , Swiss h ave ga ined an intern ation a l repu tation in this respect ; m any o f the finest hotels in other 12 4

T HE BERNESE O BERLAND

u a o u l a u b a u i u i co ld spe k j yf l y bo t e t f l th ngs ,

u r I a o a n thinking to be nde stood , now c nn t y more ; fo r it see ms to m e th a t no o n e rega rds W r r I ra them . he eve look or t vel in Engl a nd

a r a I see a m e n r ca n or b o d , th t , whe ever they

a r a ll a u . T m a re ch , dest oy be ty hey see to h ve no other des ire o r h ope bu t to be a ble to h ave r u a n d l a ge ho ses to be a ble to move fas t . Every pe rfect a n d lovely spot which they ca n

u . T u ra i r a r to ch , they defile h s , the l o d b idge ove r the Fa ll of Seh a flh a u se n a n d th a t ro u nd

C a r r a a a the l ens sho e of the l ke of Genev , h ve de stroyed the po we r o f tw o pieces o f scene ry n ca n r u a of which nothi g eve s pply the pl ce . in appeal to the higher ra nks of Eu ropea n mind . ’ Wh a t wou ld be Mr . Ru skin s l a ngu age if he u r a to -d a r a u co ld visit Switze l nd y. it is d e df l

Fo r r o r ro a to contem pl a te . in espect t a il d

u r a has o d b ilding , Switze l nd indeed expl ite her n a tu ra l resou rces to a m a rvell o u s extent .

‘Vitho u t a h as a r d u ra co l , she h nesse inn me ble a r a a n d ru n n a m an d o w te f lls ni g stre s . devel ped a system of elect rica l enginee ring which is h m u ta u ns u rpassed . T e whole system of o n in ra il roads in Sw itze rl a nd d a tes from the in ve n

e r Nafi Zse ho kke tions of the Sw iss engin e s , , , THE BERNESE OBERLAND

Ru en bach and gg , about the time that a similar w O W railroad as pened on Mt . ashington in the

Wh a 1868 . The ite Mount ins , in first of these i a Ma 2 1 1870 Sw ss ro ds was opened y , , on a u the Rigi . From that time they h ve m ltiplied u -d a ar a h ndredfold , until to y, there is h dly a mou ntain or hill th r ou ghou t the length an d breadth of the l and th a t h as not its rack -and

n o r r u ai a . T pi ion , hyd a lic r lro d here is no better pl ace to stu dy the su bject of mou ntain a l a a r r i ro ds th n Interlaken and its envi ons , especi a lly the r ou nd -tr ip which every body is a Lau W expected to m ke to terbrunnen , engern , r an a G indelwald d b ck again . T wa u i u can his trip , which in its y is n q e , be m W e a made with the u t ost comfort . t ke the a at a ar u tr in the e st end of the town , wind o nd r a u a a a a the b o d all vi l pl in , p st the st tion of W u Sch n i e ilderswil , where those bo nd for the y g Pl atte ch ange c ars ; we cross the Lii tschin e a r u river , p ss th o gh the woods , and finally

a a Zweilii tschin en so - a re ch the st tion of , c lled bec au se it is the junction of the Black an d t Lii tschin e m ite , the for er descending from i a a r r m Lau terbru n Gr ndelw ld , the l tte f o the h nen Valley . T e road to Grindelwald branches ‘ o fi bu t u o u r u a here ; we contin e jo rney , long 127 THE BERNESE O BERLAND the Wh ite Lii tschin e into th e va ll ey of Lauter b ru nnen . As we a dva nce a n d see on a ll sides the w a terfa lls lea ping from the cliffs we n u d e rstan d at a a once the n me of the v lley , ” nothing bu t fo u nta ins . T he va lley itself is au u an d u r u n ar exceedingly be tif l pict esq e , so ro w th a t it seems a m ere cleft in the giga ntic m a a r m t u ss of limestone cliffs , v ying fro one ho a r s nd to fifteen h u nd ed feet in height . At the ’ a La u r ru u a vill ge of te b nnen i tself , the s n s r ys ra th e v a lle in w r b penet te y, inte , not efore eleven ’ m r a n d a a a t a o clock in the o ning , dis ppe r cor n in l r r respo d g y ea ly ho u in the afternoon . Th e a a a u s vill ge is now typic l to ri t centre , r u u a n d with its hotels , g o ps of g ides , shops for the s ale of wood ca rving a n d v a rious so u veni rs . Bu t nothing ca n destroy th e m ag n ifice n ce of its sce n e ry ; to the left the m ighty m ass of the J u ngfra u rises a l m ost pe rpe n d icu l ar l r m a th e r r the y f o the v lley , to ight ises B reitho rn ; all a long th e v a lley a re m agn ificent w a r a u as the T rii m m e lba ch an d te f lls s ch , a r u th e a Sch m ad ri o nd the end of v lley , the m ll a . Bu t a u a a b ch the most f o s of f lls , per h aps the best known of a ll Eu rope a n wa ter - a au a o r D u o . f lls is the St bb ch . the st Bro k This st rikingly bea u tifu l fa ll lea ps from the 198

THE BERNESE C HERLAND precipice above and falls a sheer thou sand e bu t feet , to the valley b low , long before it a the u re ches the bottom , water is t rned into spray which sw ays to and fro in the wind . Ther e is one place the traveller cannot an d a is afford to fail to visit while here , th t u M rren , perched on the edge of the steep T precipice above Lauterbrunnen . here is a strangely a ttractive combination here of a rich Alpine flora (flowers of every kind an d color embroidering the deep green velvet of the meadows) an d the wildest and most m ag R n ificen t of mou nta in scenery . ight in front u s u a u rau of is the tremendo s m ss of the J ngf , so near th a t apparently it cou ld be reached by a stone thrown by a child ; beyond it are the E o an d a iger , the M nch , the whole r nge of gi ant peaks covered with a mantle of d azzling a be snow , with the gre t rivers of ice flowing E tween them . specially at su nset is the scene u bea tiful , when the white light of noonday h as passed away and the highest peaks are flushed with th a t indescribably beau tifu l phe “ m n n o e o n . the Alpine Glow So , too , the is au u a morning be tif l beyond comp re , as we r o u r look th ough window in the hotel , while an d a the air is cool cle r , and the first rays of 129 T HE BERNESE O BERLAND

su n u - a m u a o the to ch the snow cl d o nt in t ps , an d a ra as u a n d u r we g ze ent nced , f ller f lle ,

“ The da n ke a r e r m ro w li iv co es lli ng in .

All these exper iences a re well s u m med u p by John Addington Sym onds w ho l o ved the

a a a a n d w ho h as d e Alps with p ssion te love , scribed thei r ch arm in poetry a n d prose better th a n an y one else

Mu rre n let the mo rn n ea d h ee o u t At i g l t , To wal k u po n the co ld a n d cl o ve n hil ls To h ea r the co n gre ga ted mo u n ta i n s sho u t

The ir prea n o f a tho u sa n d fo a m i n g ril ls . Ra ime n ted with i n to l e rable light — The su n pea ks sta n d a bo ve the m ro w o n "

Ar in ea a e ra in his mi . is g. ch s ph ght

But it is time now to sta rt o n the fa mo u s railro ad j ou rney from La u te rb ru nnen o ve r “e r to r a a n d a the nge n Alp G indelw ld , b ck T o n e m im to Inte rl a ken . his is of the ost

a re r p ressive t rips in the wo rld . he e in the very hear t of the Be rnese O be rl a nd which Sir Le $ lie Stephen has decl a red to be s u pe ri o r in gra ndeu r a n d design even to Ch a m onix “ o r No a r o a rm a . Ze tt e thl y bject . he dds , “ a I a a r a ra u r th t h ve seen , pp o ches in g nde to 130

THE BERNESE O BERLAND from which it s eems to rise a lmost with its entire heigh t of over feet . From he re we h a ve a n excellent oppo rtu nity to exa m ine the interesting a lpine pheno menon Fo r m m m of ava l a nches . in w a r s u e r we a ther

ca n o r r m a n o u r they be seen two th ee ti es h . First we see fa r u p the m o u nt a in a slight m a n d a m a u a as move ent , then s ll q ntity , it

m to a r as see s , of snow begins f ll ; then it inc e es in size a n d fin ally the mighty m ass can be seen rolling a n d t u m bling over the steep rocky sides of the mou nta in an d fin ally fa ll into the

T rtim le te n a at a . The a c v lley its b se dist n e ,

r a to a howeve , is too gre t , over two miles , llow u s to a ppreci a te the t ru e gra ndeu r of this m o r a ara pheno enon ; with its p wde y ppe nce , i t is ra ther p retty th an te rrible . And yet there is nothing more d readed by the mo u nta inee r a a a n d b a u u th n these m sses of soft e tif l snow , and the ann a ls of Swiss mou nta in -c li m bing are fu ll of terrible accidents . The \Vengera Alp is u su ally passed over by u u a the h rrying hordes of to rists . who m ke the r r a Lau r u r trip f om Inte l ken to te br nnen , G in r d e lw ald an d back in a d ay . Yet it is well w o thy “ ” u a Sir Les of a longer sta y . S rely s ys lie W r Stephen , the engern Alp must be p ecisely

THE BERNESE O BERLAND

O n ce mo re the o ld myste ri o u s glimm er stea ls

Fro m th u re ro a n d ro m th o u d e r ure y p b ws , f y sh l s p .

o m ea n W a ea r re e An d bo s b ti g ith h t n wed . Thy swee t eyes brighte n sl o wly cl o se to mi ne ' — E cr ye t they bli n d the sta rs a n d the wil d tea m

a o e ee ea rn n fo r th o ke a r e Th t l v th , y i g y y , is

An d a e the d a rkn e ro m e r o o e n ed man e sh k ss f th i l s s , " the u n n o fla ke o f fir e And bea t s light i t s .

Wh ile we are resting a t the IVe nge rn Alp it m ay be pleasant to let o u r m inds wa nde r ove r a a m u a - m a n d r a the nn ls of o nt in cli bing , ec ll The som e of the ascents of the J u ngfra u .

r a w as m a 18 1 1 Ru o a n d fi st scent de in , by d lf r u Bl a ra b u t u 1 85 1 Hie onym s eyer of A n ; p to ,

n e it w as a ccom plished only fo u r ti mes . O o u a n w as m a 18 41 of these f r sce ts de in , by

a D e so r o r an d D u C a r . Ag ssiz , , F bes h telie ' They left the Grimsel a t fo u r o cl o ck in th e

a r a r a n d fi o f morning , p ssed ove gl cie s elds

a a m r d u a r a ice , sc ling l ost pe pen ic l w lls of rocks over the Vie sch gl acier a n d a rr ived a t six o clock in the even ing a t the ch al ets of

Mii r e le n r the r a . j , whe e y we e to p ss the night The next d ay they mo u nted the gr ea t Ale tsch a r m o a n d a n gl cie , which , being s o th h vi g the

a a a ll a r m a le st inclin tion of gl cie s , de it possible for their p rogress to be ra pid . So they went 134 THE BERNESE O BERLAND

u f on , enco ntering more and more di ficult

a P . M. a Col pass ges , till two they re ched the d u Ro thth al . They calcu l ated th a t the l ast su mm it w as abou t th ree h u ndr ed metres a an d bove them ; in spite of its steepness , in they hoped to climb it an hou r . They soon saw r a r , howeve , th t the ascent was mo e if u a h ad u a d fic lt th n they tho ght , for in pl ce m e t ar of snow they h d ice , in which the u had cu t u m a g ides to steps , th s king the T m advance slow . hey had been cli bing an u u i ar ho r , witho t be ng perceptibly ne er the u w r u rr u top , when s ddenly they e e s o nded a r u at by thick fog , th o gh which those one end of the rope cou ld scarcely see those at the other end . This was precisely at the steepest p ar t of The ar a a m the ascent . ice was so h d th t t ti es they cou ld only m ake fifteen steps in a q u arter ur was a of an ho , while the cold so intense th t they were in constant d anger of h aving their a w as feet frozen . Seeing th t their position r a a a becoming e lly critic l , Ag ssiz asked of a u if a J cob the g ide , he still hoped to re ch the

h a a r u u a u mm . T e s it l tter nswe ed , with his s l a m a had r u c l ness , th t he neve do bted their “ ” u a cr r ! a ll s ccess , and with y of Forwa d 135 THE BERNESE O BERLAND

a a a r as at started g in , with the s me ardo the beginning . Nevertheless one of the gu ides h ad u u a a a n e given p, being n ble to st nd y long r the sigh t of the p recipices a t thei r r ight . And indeed the ro ad which they followed w as w ell a d apted to terrify those who we re not s u re o f

i o r . T a r d has the r head legs his l s t i ge , which a a the form of section of cone , with one w a r a r a ll ve tic l , ove looks on the e st the fields h ad u r e a n d of snow which they j st c oss d , on the west the Firn or Nevé of the Ro th tha l . Th e w as a slope little steeper to the west , for the fr agments of ice b roken by each blow of the ax e all rolled down this l ast valley . had m u As they no time to lose , they o nted stra igh t u p the ridge witho u t m aki n g a ny zig “ z ags ; the res u lt w as th a t we h ad consta ntly

r o u r a ra d the precipice befo e eyes , being sep te

a n r a n ro n from it only by ove h ngi g of of s ow . Bl a n y times p u shing o u t my a l penstock a u a u u a I r u little f rther th n s l , felt it sink th o gh a r m a s w as this l ye of snow , which in so e pl ce only abou t two feet thick ; a n d o u r eyes co u ld

r w as a e fo r a then , eve y time the fog dissip t d u r a r u moment , pl nge ve tic lly th o gh the hole m ade by the stick down to the grea t ci rque ”

w as a t o u r . An d which feet so they went on ,

THE BERNESE OBERLAND thus in an instant an d without any diffic u lty at the summit . So m u ch ass u rance a n d co ol a u u a an d be re ness ro sed our co r ge , when a turned in order to guide us over , no one d red to refuse .

ass mo u n d firs to th e t ace n o t mu h Ag iz te t li tle sp . c l arger th an tw o fee t by o n e an d a h a lf which fo rm s th e actu al su mm it o f the Ju ngfrau . He re ma i n ed th e re a o u five m n u an d n he o n d u s a ai n sa w b t i tes , whe j i e g , I t a he was re m a a d he o n d n d d h t ext ely gi t te ; c fesse . i ee ,

n e r r n u m tha t he had ev e xpe ie ced s ch dee p e o ti o n s . It

r o was n o w my tu rn . I expe ien ced n d ifficu lty in cro ss in the r d e bu t n was at th e u mm o u d g i g ; whe I s it , I c l n ot a n m o r an as k e o n tro o f the ro , y e th Ag siz , e p c l p fou n d emo ti o n s ia prese n ce o fth is spe cta cle so c ru shi ng

in ra ndeu r . re m a n d t re o n y a fe w m n u s its g I i e he l i te ,

o n n o u o r n o t to a r a the an o ram a l g e gh . h weve , fe th t p ' u n ra u r be efla ro m y o f ro m the J gf will ev e ced f m m e m ry.

Be o re u s w as e e nd ed the s a n a n d a t o u r e f xt Swi s pl i . fe t

r re c d o u t the o r a n h b t e r we e st t he l we ch i s , whic . y h i a are n u n o rm e m ed to a m o r the pp t if ity. se ex lt still e m ighty peaks which ro se a l m o st to o u r lev e l . At the

am m th e a o f the O be r and h a t the s e ti e v lleys l , whic m o m n we had a rr d had n o e r d t i e t ive . bee c v e wi h l ght m s n o w u n o r d t e m e e in m an a e a n d ist , c ve e h s lv s y pl c s a o d u s to o n m a in a mea u re t ro u the ll we c te pl te s , h gh

fissu re th e o r d o . ‘Ve o u d d n u o n the s , w l bel w c l isti g ish r h the a o fG r n de a d o n the in the de ths ig t v lley i lw l ; left , p 138 THE BERNESE OBERLAND far o an mm n s re ass an d in the o o m of bel w , i e e c v e , b tt

h s a shin n hr ad ch o o d its n d n s in t i , i g t e whi f ll we wi i g an d out: it was th e Valley o f Lau terb ru n nen an d th e B a r an h Mon Lii tschin e . ut o all the E d t e b ve , ige ch a ra d o u r a n on W e had so m d ficu in tt cte tte ti . e if lty b e lievi ng that these were th e same peaks whi ch see m

a r n r m o ne re to the sky th an to the ea rth whe see n f o bel w . H r we o ok d do n u on th m an d h r r a n ear e e l e w p e , t ei g e t n ess all o wed u s to o b serve them with a certa i n degree of d a fo r we r s ara d ro m th m o n the et il , we e ep te f e ly by

a n o f the Al etsch . In the o o d r o n icy pl i pp site i ecti , o ard the s aros anoth r ak s co o a but t w we t , e e pe , les l ss l m or racefu ho s s o s n r o r d sn o e g l , w e l pe , e ti ely c ve e with w , h ave given it the n ame ofSilberho rn ; in the same di rce

o n we coul d d sco r man o r aks k s ti , i ve y the pe , li ewi e

r n ed sn Th s su mm s o rm the mm c o w with o w . e e it f i e d a r n u o fthe Jun frau hi ch r s s as a u n in i te eti e g , w i e q ee ” the midst of them . Among the names of famous men connected n O — r with the Ber ese berland , G indelwald , a the Jungfrau , the Finsteraarhorn , etc . , is th t T l of Professor John ynda l , the material for s The Glaci ers o the Al s whose cla sic book , f p , was largely drawn from this part of Switzer

. L r In tro d u c land ord Avebu y says , in his a tion to the above book , that we natur lly T a l a a think of ynd l as gre t scientific man , but he must likewise take high place in the ranks 139 T HE BERNESE O BERLAND

u fo r r of literat re , especially his desc iptions of r are an d u Alpine scene y , which often vivid f ll of remark able literary be au ty .

r a at r u As we sit he e , g zing the Jungf a , it m ay not be inappropriate to read some of these classic descriptions of other high mou nta ins ’ r by which we are s u ro u nded . In Tynd a ll s a cco u nt of the ascent of th e Fin steraarho rn (in we find the following description of an Alpine v alley in the O be rl and “ “ u a a I often t rned , he s ys , to look long this h m agnificent co rr idor . T e mightiest mo u n tains in th e O berl and form its sides ; still the impression which it m akes is not th a t of vast u m bu t ness or s bli ity , of loveliness not to be Th e su n h ad m the described . not yet s itten u m u a b u t snows of the bo nding o nt ins , the saddle ca rved o u t a segm ent of th e heavens which formed a backgrou nd of u nspe a k a ble e rim he a the beauty . O ver th of t s ddle sky was a a u deep orange , p ssing upw rds thro gh r an d a u a ambe , yellow , v g e ethere l green to rm R abo the ord in ary fi am e n ta l bl u e . ight ve - u u r the snow c rve , purple clouds h ng pe fectly

a . motionless , giving depth to the sp ces between

There w as someth ing saintly in the scene . We Anything more exq u isite I never beheld . 1 40

T HE BERNESE O BERLAND

a a r w divides the V l is f om It a ly . S eeping a u m s an a r a a ro nd , the vision eet gg eg te of pe ks as fled elin s i r wh ich look g g to the r mothe , to w ards the m ighty D o m . Then come the re pelle n t crags of Mont Cervin ; the ide a l of ra a a r l a a r mo l s v ge y , of wi d unt m ble fe ocity , mingling invol u ntarily w ith o u r contem pl a N . an c tion of the gloomy pile ext comes obj e t , a ra m a sc rcely less g nd , conveying , it y be , even a deeper imp ression of m ajes ty a n d m ight

a s 1Ve issh o rn than the M tterhorn it elf , the , m perh aps the ost splendid obj ect in th e Alps . Bu t au as a its r a n d be ty is soci ted with fo ce , as ru b u t as ra a n d we think of it , not c el , g nd h a C m strong . F urt er to the righ t the gre t o bi a lifts u p his ba re head ; other pe a ks crowd r u a t r m a o nd him , while the ext e ity of the cu rve ro u nd which o ur gaze h as s wept rises

a w . Bla n e . the sovr n cro n of Mt And now , d a ar u ra as y sinks , scrolls of pe ly clo ds d w a u the u a r s themselves ro nd mo n t ins c est , being w afted from them into the dista nt a ir . Th ey are u an a witho t color of y kind ; still , by gr ce an d as m u r s of form , the embodi ent of l st ou an d m a h a u ligh t ost tender sh de , t eir be ty is ” not to be described . From the Little Scheidegg begins the de 142

THE BERNESE O BERLAND

a Ei e rw a n d u a e st tion of the g , ten tho s nd fe t T as u r d a bove the level of the se a . his is s e ly one of the strangest ra ilroa d sta tions in the

r . cu t o u t o a n d wo ld It is of the solid r ck , the only sou rce of ligh t from the o u ts ide wo rld is thro u gh the O penings cu t in the sides o f the r a m mo u nt a ins . App o ching the the to u rist ca n

o u t U a ra n a a look pon st gely f scin ting scene , em b racing a view which extends over a ll the no rth Of Switze rl and an d even parts of Als a ce

an d a r a . B den , in Ge m ny Bu t a a a a we h ve not yet re ched the l st st tion , a E a u a th t of ismeer , nother h ge c ve , a u w a au ra O feet in ltit de , ith rest nt , post ffice fo r an d other necessities the mod e rn t ra veller . This is the end of o u r jo u rney for the p resent ; the line will be carr ied l a te r to the J u ngfra u a a n d m a st tion , feet high , then the re in ing 2 43 feet will be m a de by me a ns of a n a ra r u in f r elev tor , bringing the t velle th s com o t to the ve ry s u m mit Of this beautifu l a n d once in accessible mo u nt a in . L a a From the ittle Scheidegg , the ro d le ds r a d an d n steeply down to G indel w l , excee i gly

u r u a w h as o m pict esq e vill ge , hich bec e known in recent ye a rs as the se a t O f religio u s convem a n d h as m a umm tions , beco e not only s er I“ THE BERNESE OBERLAND

h resort but a winter resort as well . T e village a r u s is domin ted by th ee gigantic mo ntain , E r W r the ige , the Mettenberg , and the ette an d l - r - a horn , is a wel known sta ting pl ce for - r mou nt ain climbin g . A la ge corps of gu ides The a u is always on h and . f vo rite trip for the or din ary tou rist is th a t to the fam ous Grin del wald Glacier . O n e of th e ch aracteristic featu res of all r Of r the a Alpine scene y , cou se , is gl ciers , u which flow slowly , imperceptibly , yet s rely , an d ra u sh all O a inexo bly cr ing bst cles , down E r the slopes of all grea t moun ta in s . very t av ell er in Switzerland has seen and admired a r Of r these gre t rive s ice , b oken into frozen a i billows and crev sses , bear ng on their mighty backs the mass of stones an d rocks torn from the body of the m o u n tain ; every one h as seen R a at ur G orn er the hone Gl cier the F ka , the a t a Gl cier at Zerma t , and the Mer de Gl ce at m B Ch a onix . u t the most convenient place to stu dy these glaciers close a t h and is at n a a u Gri delw ald . For short w lk brings s to either the u pper or lower gl acier . O u r first m Of a m i pression is one dis ppoint ent , for the u a a s rf ce , with its mor ines , consisting of piles r an d a u of di t loose stones , is nything but bea 1 15 T HE BERNESE OBERLAND

a u s ar tifu l . Hence it will p y to enter the ti ficial grotto cu t deep into the interior of the

a r r can a m r a u ul gl cie , whe e we d i e the be tif u r a ll its r bl e color of the ice , seen he e in vi gin pu rity . T he village of Grindelw ald itself will repay u a a a long soj ou rn . I t is sit ted in the v lley a a r a of the s me n me , to the no th of the Bl ck Lti tschin e a u a n d r , somewh t high p, di ectly

O pposite the Lower G r indelwald Gl acier . W a is in m a a hile the v lley rich e dow l nd , the h clima te is too poor for grain an d fru it . T e whole cou ntry round about is fu ll of wild an d an d romantic scenery , while not so idyllic in au as a Of C am its. be ty the v lley h onix , the mo u nta in l a ndsca pes are more m ajes tic a n d m T O u an d a u u su bli e . the so th e s t it is s rro nded a -c r m a by the gig ntic , ice overed ocky sses of the W r r Viesch ellhorn , Sch eckho n , Ber l isto ck r in ste raar horn , the g , Mettenbe g , F T o r E . horn , and the two igers the no th Fau lh o rn Ro thh o rn G e msenfl u h tower the , , , Th e r and Schw arzhorn . Grosse Scheidegg u a sh ts it in on the northe st , while to the a ra u a west , the v lley g d lly descends on both u a sides of the Bl ack Lij tschin e . M le p ths a i i le d over the Grosse Scheidegg to Me r ngen , 1 46

THE BERNESE OBERLAND over the Kleine Scheidegg to the Wengern L r au Alp , and auterb unnen , and over the F l

a od . horn to the Giessb ch , Brienz and the B eli O ver the Strahlbach an d the Vorder Glacier an d Fin steraar a r the Gl cie , not only expert b u t a s mountaineers , l o ladies under the u m a ms escort of g ides , y reach the Gri el hospice . In the nor theast of the village is the very Old u was u ch rch , which b ilt by the Bishop of 1 1 44 8 Lausanne between and 1 15 . O rigi was bu t h as nally it of wood , since been u - r rebu ilt in stone . In the ch rch towe h angs an Old hell a 1044 u with the d te , once h ng in

. a r the chapel of St Petronell (now dest oyed) , L O close to the ower Glacier , to which in lden tim es pilgrims fr om the V a lais came over the u a a gl aciers . It wo ld be a f scin ting task to a u a study in det il this typical mo ntain v lley , u m with its handsome , st rdy men and wo en , u s Old u u fu rn i its pict re que ho ses , its q aint W u r an d . e t e , i ts legend and dialects , poetry see s amples of the l atter in the house in scrip a tions , which here as elsewhere in Switzerl nd show the piou s an d freedom-loving Natu re Of the Swiss mou ntain peasant . Here are one or two taken from the magnificent vol u 147 THE BERNESE O BEltLAND

Barndtl tsch Em a u d titled by m n el Frie li , de voted to Grindelwald alone :

D e e K e n e S e e r a u i s s l i ch w iz h s,

Das e r a n de r ras e te hi st s s ht ,

Mir d er licbe G o be se hll tz c tt , " D as as n icht zu gru n de geht .

Sta rk u n d Schm u ck d as Schwe ize rha u s "2 F e u D as Beste : die re iheit sch a u t h ra s .

Th ese are in h igh German . As a sam ple of the Bernese dialect I a dd he re a few stan

‘ z as Of a poem entitled the Gl els clwrftl hrcrs ’ K ra n khei t r m r s Su terme iste r s , f o P ofe sor Sch’wi zer -Duiseh :

I bin e rru ch a G letscherman , W ais nyd vo Fo rcht u G ru u s ; ' Am wieste n Wi de n O r e n z a hn , l t g .

a s Trybt mi e gh im a dru u .

I b -n u fem m a e n ra ga ech sch lst G t.

radu u f wie u f Pa r e tt G , g ,

I S af-n u fem fro m e S n ee chl g ch , W ie in em Fad erbe tt.

i May the dea r Go d pro tect this littl e ho use tha t stands besid e

so a ma no t be dm tro ed . the ro ad . th t it y y ' 7 S ro n an d an d o me th e Sw ser o u e the es : Froc t g h s is is s h s . b t is do m dwe lls within . 1

THE BERNESE O BERLAND

R a a pass by the eichenb ch F lls to Meiringen , a a O r at the entrance to the H sli V lley . we can end o u r jou rney to the m o u nta ins Of the Bernese O be rla nd more comfo rtably by tak ing the train back to Interl aken whence we started .

150 CHAPTER VII

MOUNT N SSES RA LRO DS AND UNNELS AI PA , I A T

ERHAPS there is no more interesting a n phase of Switzerland , in a cert i sense , a a th a n its passes. Aw y b ck in the grey Of a u mist ntiq ity , these mighty masses , form ing a h u ge wall or rampart between It aly an d r u i the no th , m st have indeed seemed mpreg The l n a nable . few trave lers visiti g G ul or the D a u in a m region of the n be the e rliest ti es , probably used the only places where the vast u r barriers co ld be tu ned , the east and west ex

tremities . a of the Alps As ye rs went on , how i ever , men perceived that certa n depressions ia the mountain s themselves afforded a more u u a direct , tho gh more d iffic lt , ccess to the

. An d l north so little by little , at interva s of u r a a a u h nd eds , even thous nd years , the v rio s Alpine passes known to modern times were opened up . At first they were mere foot a u — a p ths , then m le tracks ; later fine bro d a s Of carri ge roads were constructed , and la t a all came the railro d tunnels beneath . 151 MO NT N E R LRO D TUNNEIS U AI PASS S , AI A S ,

It to u ches the imagin ation to look back over the centu r ies and see th e p rocession of

ar a a u as d ing tr vellers crossing these f mo s p ses , the Roman soldiers an d Officers on thei r w ay to r a r r a o the no th , and l te , the me ch nt and c lonist n to G au l a d the D a n u be . After the in tro d u c tion Of Chr istianity we see the long line of piou s pilgrims com ing from F rance a n d Germ any to the s acred shrines Of It a ly ; the ar a u r w hordes of northern b bari ns , po ing do n on the su nny fields of Ita ly ; the armies of Ch arlem agne to s ave the Pope ag ainst the Lomb ards ; the students of the whole northern world on their w ay to the u nive rsities of Bologna an d Pad u a ; a n d fin ally th e ever rising stream of modern to u rists . It is difficu lt to appreci a te the fear a n d trembling which m u st h a ve possessed the lonely t raveller in the D a rk and BIidd le Ages . The rocky caves hid b a ndits a n d robbers ; there was always d anger from Sl av or M agya r or T u rk ; while stil l m ore he a rt-q u aking were the st range monsters w ith which m edi aev al s u pe rstition peopl ed these w ild retreats . There were especi ally th e variou s kinds of

ra a ac o r d gons , dwelling in c ves or gl iers , flying “ the air m a r i through , e itting sp ks l ke an 152

MO NT IN E R LRO D NNEL U A PASS S , AI A S, TU S

r St. anvil . Men remembered the sto y of Bernar d Of Men thon ; how he climbed the mou nt ains and drove the dragons b ack an d imprisoned them in a deep abyss . It is astonishin g how late this belief in d ragons n a a and devil s persisted . O e Obstacle th t e rly mountaineers fou nd in sca ling the M a tter a ar Of u Of horn , was the fe r on the p t the g ides the demons inh abitin g the su mmit ; a n d Mr . u m s hi s Of M m ery tell us how , in ascent the u r en R his u u r an d F gg idge , g ides B gener

Ven e tz were sur e that they saw evil spir its . W e have no tim e here to do m ore th an mention the princip al pas ses of the Alps . the -G e n ievre Among oldest was Mont , now ri a a be forgotten , but once the p ncip l p th a a tween Fr nce and Italy , prob bly crossed by

n a an d u C r 58 B . C . Han ib l , s rely by aesa , ; t s -C i here was al o Mont en s , over which the i am L ar Frankish k ngs c e to omb dy , where Lou is the Piou s fou nded a Hospice (8 14 and which Henry IV crossed in J anu ary 1077 his Ca a , on way to noss ; there is the

L . n a Ca ar ittle St Ber rd , crossed by es on his

u n au 49 B. c. a n d r a last jo r ey to G l , the G e t

. a Ofall St Bern rd , one of the oldest passes , and known especially on accou nt Of the fam ous 153 N E R ILRO AD NNEL MOUNTAI PASS S , A S. TU S

at u in 859 an d re Hospice the top , fo nded ,

u . r a hIen tho n in fo nded , by St Be n rd of , the m u r . r a eleventh cent y F om the e rliest ti es , u l l l l o u r o wn down thro gh the idd e Ages , til in d ay its im po rta nce h as been dest royed by the

a l a a Of . r ar w as ra rs d r i ro d , the P ss St Be n d t ve e by a grea t crowd of pilgrims on thei r w ay to R m an d r r o e , or by kings empe o s with their

m r a r a w as followers . A ong these oy l pe son ges

Na r as in 1 800 . poleon , who c ossed the p s O m n all r a itti g mention of othe p sses , the S lii e n Se tim er r a n d a p g , p , B enner , le ving the discu ssion Of the Simplon an d St . Gotth a rd h a r a for the present , we devote t is ch pte to

r a Of r a . b ief , visit to the chief p sses S witze l nd NO one ca n h a ve a rea l conception of the ch arm an d be au ty Of Sw itz e rl a nd who h as not spent som e time at least in wa lking ove r

u can a n a i ts passes . Th s only we get ide Of the enorm ou s difficu lties of t ravel a n d com merce th a t once existed in the d a vs befo re the

a a re ra ilroad . In th e following p ges w e to give a brief outline of a trip which w iU ta ke in some of the most fa m o u s of these m o u n u r O w l ta in passes . O bj ective point i l be the

a Of R a n d m a bu t a v lley the hone Zer tt , we sh ll not by any means ende avo ur to ta ke the sho rt 154

MO NT N E R I LRO D NNEL U AI PASS S , A A S , TU S

m u a O f Le u botto , we sho ld visit the B ths k , whe re those who are a fflicted with skin dis

ra u a d a a eases , remain seve l ho rs y in the w ter , a m a re with trays flo ting before the , on which a r a r u books , newsp pe s and v io s kinds of a al beverages . An e sy w k of ten miles w o u ld u s R a fa r then lead to the hone v lley , not , by n a rail , from Visp , where the trai can be t ken to Zerm a tt . Bu t on our present trip we are to reach the same destin a tion by a far mo re ci rc u ito u s a n am a r a rou te . T ki g the ste er t Inte l ken we sail over the bl u e w a te rs of Lake Bri e n z to a m a r a the town of the s e n me , whe e w e t ke a r n m o r a the tr in to Mei i gen , the most i p t nt n o w al village of the H asli V alley . It is most r fo r 1 891 r a enti ely new , in , while the d e ded

' ' FOhn w as a o u t a n d in blowing , fire broke a short tim e nearly every b u ilding h a d he T O u come a victim to the fl a mes . the so th u a wa R rise the steep mo nt in lls , with the eich e n b ach a as a C a F lls , in which , the re der of on n

D w r u oyle ill remembe , Sherlock Holmes fo nd

at a w as u u his end , le st so it s pposed , ntil it pleased the a u thor to revive him aga in . High ' O clifi m u a on the pposite , so e two tho s nd a n d e a a a ca n feet high , so ste p th t no c rri ge 156 THE G EMMI PASS .

MO N N SE R LRO D NNEL U TAI PAS S , AI A S , TU S

a o f w w as u r s cheeses , the s le hich to f ni h them with necessities a n d comfo rts d u ring w the long Alpine winte r . I t is o rth while spending som e ti m e a m ong the pe asa n ts o f T wh o Sw itzer l and . hose know the co u nt ry

a o f . only from the hotels , get little ide i t By d a d a m w meeting y by y, these si ple folk hose a u at l l o r a rte n m a ncestors fo ght g , Se p ch , an d ra i u G ndson , noting the r gen ine piety , ur ara an d a their st dy ch cter kindly he rts , yo u will go aw ay with a n a dded respect fo r the co u ntry an d a new idea Of the benefits of freedom . The Sw iss are essenti ally a religio u s peo ple u It is no wonder then th a t the S a lva tion

Army h as m ade gre a t st rides a m ong them . O n e Su nd ay morning h a lf a dozen l ads a n d lasses c a me toiling u p the steep zigz ag pa th

a a r m r a n d a u a th t le ds f o Mei ingen , t king p a t -r a a position the cross o ds beg n to sing ,

ra x r o a ra p y , and e ho t , while the pe ple , tt cted u a a r the a ll by the so nds , c me c oss fields in directions . O n e sce n e th a t occu rred at Beu ti is in de li u bly fixed in my m em ory . A t the ho se where we w e re stopping w as a m iniste r from a sm a ll n u a town in the Ca nton of Bern . O e S nd y 158 MO N IN E R LRO D T NNELS U TA PASS S, AI A S , U morning he cond u cted services on the little a au o ur a a pl te behind ch let , bene th the spread T sat a ing branches Of a tree . here we on th t u fu in a u an d bea ti l day e rly J ly , sang the Old a far grand German chor ls , while below a a Aar u us was the H sl i v lley , with the r nning r u r r a was th o gh it like a silve th e d , till it lost in the bl u e waters Of Lake B r ienz ; on the O pposite side Of the va lley we cou ld see the R a a the eichenb ch F lls and Scheidegg Pass , while far above all rose the snow-covered u th e W W s mmits of eisshorn , the etterhorn ,

E . a u air a a and the iger All bo t , the was fr gr nt O ra an d an d u with the dour of g ss flowers , m si cal with the song of birds an d the m u rmu r Of

u a . The m r nning w ter sermon was si ple , yet n Of appropr i ate . Many a time as I thi k that S u nday morning do the words Of Pastor ’ Lenz s text come b ack to me with new mean “ in g: Ich hebe meine A u gen z u den Bergen ” wovon mir die Hilfe kommt ( I will lift u p l mine eyes to the hi ls , whence cometh my help ) . Fr om Mei r ingen we start on our first trip on foot over an Alpine pass , that is , up the Hasli v alley and over the Grimsel to the Rhone

a . a u u Gl cier It is a long and f tig ing jo rney , 159 MO N N ES R LRO D NNEL U TAI PASS . AI A S . TU S yet frau ght with the ple as u re th a t com es from

a r r a ir n a a O ffin e r cle f esh , co st nt ch nge scene y , a a u an d u good ppetite , wholesome f tig e , so nd n w sleep . O the ay we p ass one of the finest

a r a a r of Swiss w te f lls , the H ndeck , whe e the river Aar flin gs i tself sheer dow n tw o h u ndred a n d r a a a a m fo ty feet , bre ks into m ss of fo , on which the su n cas ts the everch a nging

u r Of a . a a a colo s the r inbow Here , g in , in ccord a a a o f nce with the pl n of this book , inste d a ttem pting a n y descr iption of my o wn of u r m O f a Of this scene , I q ote f o one the cl ssics

r r r T a : Alpine desc iption , P ofesso ynd ll

au d a t the a r a o fHan d k a n d oo d fo r I p se w te f ll ec , st . a ti me u po n the woo d e n b ridge which spa n s the ri ver

he Aa r o m s a m o n d o wn the at its to p. T c e g b lli g to

r d ro m its a re n a r ake o n e o r u m b i ge f p t gl cie . t s sh t j p

u o n a ro n d . o u n o o a m an d e n p p jecti g le ge b ils p i t f . th l eaps i n to a chas m fro m the b o tt o m o f which its m a r

r vu e n a m d th a scen d s th ro ugh the gl oo m . A i l t e e Aarle n bach j o i n s the Aa r fro m the l e ft in the very j aws

o fthe a m a n a t fir . u o n a ro e o n a t o m ch s ; f lli g, st p p j cti s e d e e o the d an d re o u n d n ro m pth b l w e ge , . b i g f this . it d a r a t the Aar a n d o u n o e t e r k a a r ts , b th pl ge t g h li e p i

The o f fighti ng dem o n s to the b o tt o m o f the go rge . o am o f the Aa rle n bach a o f the Aa r is f is wh ite . th t

o a n d n a e the o r r to tra e the as a e yell w . this e bl s bse ve c p s g 100

MOUNTAl N E R LRO D NNELS PASS S , AI A S , TU su mm s a ll n am e d the n a e n no it e le with ewly f ll s w ,

a e n s i e which gl e a med with d zzli ng whit e s n th s u n light .

was u n d a a n d the e n was e a Sa a It S y, sc e its lf bb th ,

a with n o s o u n d to d istu rb its perfe ct res t . In l ake

we as d the m o u n a n re m rro r d w o u which p se , t i s we i e ith t d o r o n fo r re w as n o m o o n o f the a ir to ru fl ist ti , the ti f e its u r a Fro m th e u mm O f the Mai e n wan w e s f ce. s it g o o k d d o n u o n the R o n G a e r an d a n o e l e w p h e l ci , bl

m hard kn o o f a fin e r o f its k n d Object it see ed . I ly w i

Fo r n se hro u the n arro o r e in the Al ps . ci g it lf t gh w g g

o d the ice as ad in its a a n d e r is which h l s c c e j ws , wh e it

r a r n an d d o a d r ad o u t in the al e g e tly ive isl c te , it sp e s v l y

o in u a m a n n r as a r to re a to the bel w , s ch e cle ly ve l ’ mi n d s eye the n at u re o f the fo rces to which i t is sub ’ Lo n o fi r rre jected . gfell w s gu e is q u ite co ct ; the gl aci er re m es a a au n e o f the o r re r se n s se bl v st g tl t . which g ge p e t th e r the o e r a r e b its fis u res w ist ; while l w gl cie , cl ft y s

- d s n o fin e r k ri y fi d the han d . i t g li e ge , is t p i e by

D own the steep slopes of the Ma ie n w a n g we now h asten a n d reach the Rhone Gl acier at an d add o u r a r Hotel the foot , little sh e to r u r s m the busy scene , the c owds of to ist co ing r r u r a as a u f om B igue , or the F k , or we h ve j st

m . a done , from the Gri sel A t the he d of the a R a s v lley is the hone Gl cier , one of the fine t an d most imposing Of all the gl aciers in

r a a r a r a r a Of Switze l nd , g e t f ozen w te f ll ice , bre aking into a tho u sand fa ntastic sh apes . 16 2

MO N N S E R LRO AD UNNEL U TAI PA S S , AI S . T S

a u a r s r both on cco nt of its gr nd ocky cene y , an d its histo rica l memories . This is the i a ’ D R u a l s mous evil s Bridge , where the e ss f l

a u r be r into an byss one h nd ed feet low , cove

r ra r ing the b idge with its sp y , which is d iven hither an d thither by the wind which sweeps

r . The r m a a u down the go ge wild , o ntic gr nde r of this scene is well rendered by Longfellow

H er io n r r b in his yp , whe e he desc i es how “ Pau l Flem m ing h ad com e u p the va lley of

. ar a u m r the St Gotth d P ss thro gh A steg . whe e the K irstele n bach comes d ashing dow n the hi ade ran e r T a r w ra r h l , f om its sno y c dle ove

a . The r a a n d u o n a he d o d is steep , r ns zigz g h terraces . T e side of the m ou n ta ins a re

a f an d r r o u - a b rren cli fs , f om thei cl d c pped u s h a a a a s mmit , un e rd mid the ro r of the gre t t r m r a - o rent below , co e st e ms of snow white

a a r fo m , le ping from rock to ock , like the o a a mou nta in Chamois . As y u dv nce the l an scene grows wi der d more desol a te . The re m a a u a a . is not a tree in sight , not h n h bit tion

C u a r u o u lo ds , bl ck as midnight , lowe pon y f rom the ravine above a n d th e m o u nt a in to r a bu t a am a n d rent bene th is sheet of fo , sends a n A u u p incessant ro ar . s dden t u rn in the road brings yo u in sight of a lo ftv bridge step 164 MO N N E RA LRO D NNEL U TAI PASS S, I A S, TU S

ping from cliff to cliff with a sin gle stride . A a a a s a t l mighty c t r ct howl bene h it , ike an evil i an d sp rit , and fills the air with mist ; the mou ntain wind cl aps its h and an d shrieks u s ! ha ! T thro gh the narrow pa s , ha his is ’ a r the D evil s Bridge . It le ds the t aveller u a n d u across the fearf l chasm , thro gh a ai a a mount n g llery , into the bro d green silent m meadow of Ander att . As we sta nd looking at this valley of desol a o u r a u u a a tion , imagin tion conj res p th t str nge a a a 1799 f nt stic scene in the ye r , when this a n rrow valley , with its bridge , was the scene of a terrible struggle between the French on one side an d the Ru ssi ans and Austrians ff under General Su vo ro on the other . Th e story of the m arch of Genera l Su vo ro ff over these mountain s and through these valleys is one unequalled in the annals of u a history . It was during the famo s d ys of R the French evolution , when the French army u nder Napoleon had won its a mazing E was i victories , and when all urope comb ned

a . a 1799 gainst France In the ye r , Switzer l and was the battle-grou nd betwee n the French on one side an d the Ru ssi ans an d the A u stri ans a a a a on the other . In M y of th t ye r Kors kow 1 65 MO N N E R LRO D NNELS U TAI PASS S , AI A S , TU occ u pied Zii r ich a n d the whole of the right

O n the O o f b a nk of the lake . pposite side th e a was r a s a a m d l ke the F ench Gener l Ma sen , c pe a r n along a r nge of hills , the Albis , obse vi g his

Su vo ro ff a r Ru a a r motions . , with nothe ssi n my s -five u a w as con isting of twenty tho s nd men ,

a an d w as . a in It ly , he to cross the St Gotth rd , which at tha t time w as only a steep a n d n ar u - a m u in a a a row m le p th , co e p the re r of M ssen , m and th u s pl ace hi self be tween the two a rmies . Su vo ro ff u a r fo nd the French bove Ai olo , a n d r u a m a g ad lly , step by step , drove the b ck a rr a u in a ll into the n ow v lley , sh t on sides by - u a n an d e snow covered mo nt i s ste p , rocky

r . a r at p ecipices After sho t rest the Hospice , Ru a m r a the a a the ssi ns once o e beg n tt ck , u a r shing down the Sw iss side of the P ss , d riving the French before th em over the ’ D r was r r th e evil s B idge , which dest oyed f om other side . a a In the me ntime , however , the f ce of ff r ha a a a n a ai s d ch nged . Inste d of c tchi g a a a as had a the French rmy in tr p , he pl nned , Su v o ro ff fou nd himself in a ve ry difficu lt Bl n a a r a a . asse position , le ning of his ppro ch , ha d a ttacked a n d defe a ted the othe r Ru ssi an a m an d a o u a n d r y , det ched the divisions of S lt 166

MO N N S E R LRO D T NNEL U TAI PA S S, AI A S, U S

r Mortier to meet Su vo otf as he came up . ’ The a D latter h ving crossed the evil s Bridge , R on logs , descended the valley of the euss , and finding all boa ts on Lake Lu cerne re ra Le C moved by the French Gene l ourbe , h ad to mar ch toward Schwyz throu gh the

' Sch ach en tal a gloomy , which begins ne r Alt r u a e dorf , and whe e B rglen , the n tiv village T of W illiam Tell is situ ated . hence he s marched over the Kinzig Pa s , down the a a Mu o ta at Kinzig V lley to the V lley of , u i z in the iss e of the K n ig , and sight of Schwyz . Here they met the French u nder Sou lt an d an a a Mortier d desper te encounter ensu ed . M any French an d Ru ssians fell into the Mu o ta a from the bridge , which was t ken and retaken a am m ny times , their blood reddening the stre , a i a which carried aw y the r flo ting bodies . Su voro ff h ad r a bu t was defeated , and to ret e t , su ch a retreat was never known before . He Mu ota a a ascended the V lley , his re r still

a . Pra el a fighting , p ssed Mt g , scended to a a s all Glarus by the Kienth l , h ra sed the w way by the French . He as intercepted by Molitor a t the ou tlet of the v alley of Glaru s

an d u u o ff r m ur . T u th s sh t f o Z ich h s checked , he retreated aga in by way of Sernfthal a nd 167

MO N N S E R LRO AD T NNEL U TAI PA S S , AI S . U S

a C i Ca t r s re ched o re , in the n on of G ison ,

4 u r o f O ctober , with the loss of one fo th his

a a iffi u army , fter eleven d ys of the most d c lt a a an a rm o u u a m rch ever t ken by y , with t reg l r h supply of provisions . T e F rench t raveller im o n d r m a r S (f om who , together with K l D an dlike r au m u m a C c , thor of the on ent l s hichte der Schweiz a a s a re c , the bove f ct

a u u ra u r t ken) , well s ms p the epic g nde of “ this retrea t in the followin g wo rds : No traveller h ad ever before passed the Ki n z ig th al to the Bl u o ta th a l . Th e very shepherds take o ff their shoes a n d hold them in their a arm m a a n d u h nds , where ies rched fo ght

a m m a a Th r d u ring th t e or ble c mp aign . e p eci pices were st rewn w ith the bodies of fa llen soldiers ; not a mossy rock beside a ru nning spring th a t h ad not been chosen by some one of la a a n d a n d them to y his he d down die , when , the following spring , the melting snow left the u i bodies ncovered , the b rds of prey fed on ” them . Perhaps some reader may think th is long r a bu t a r a desc iption irrelev nt , it is sto y th t a a r m a a an d ca n lw ys fi es the i gin tion , one ’ never think of the D evil s B ridge a n d the l R u u im Va ley of the e ss , witho t seeing in 168 M OUNT N SSE R ILRO D . T NNELS AI PA S, A A S, U agin ation the swarms of Russians pou ring down the slopes of the St . Gotthard , and hear in n g the clash of arms , and the shrieks of dyi g n be men , mi gled with the roar of the torrent l S su n neath , whi e all around the eptember gilds the rugged precipices and the snowy mou ntain tops . In the ear lier part of this chapter we h ave a r i u given gene al d sc ssion of the Swiss passes , especi ally those known in ancient times . The c all St . Gotthard is among the most re ent of r in r passes , its name occu r g for the fi st time in 1235 an d i the , be ng applied to Hospice , which was called after the name of a B ishop 1038 a z of Hildesheim (died , c noni ed

A mule p ath was opened abou t 1293 . In 1707 it was widened enou gh to allow the in 1775 E passage of sleighs , and an nglish man named Grenville rode over it for the fin e u first time in a carriage . A road was b ilt in 1 820-30 in 1882 th e il was , and ra road bu ilt . h In many respects t e St. Gotthard is con ven ien tl u a al R y sit ted , the v ley of the euss on the north side leads from the plains of North i a Switzerland , wh le the simil r valley of the T icin o leads directly to the Italian lakes and 169 MO NTA N S E R LROAD UNNEL U I PA S S, AI S, T S

the pl ain of Northern Italy . By mea ns of the O beralp Pass the valley of the Rhine is rea ched an d by the F u rk a the valley of the Rhone ; on the west the S u steu Pass leads

O an d as to the Bernese berland , on the e t ,

' au a a the Kl sen P ss le ds to Glarus . So , on u a R a a the so thern slope , the gre t h etian p sses a meet the St . Gotth rd as this approaches the

Italia n Plains . To few people m ake u se of a the St . Gotth rd except the tou rist jou rney u a n d a ing on foot , in q est of exercise he lth r for the famous St . Gottha d r ailroad m akes the p assage from Switzerl and to It aly in a w few min u tes . This t u nnel as looked upo n in its time as one of the tri u mphs of rail road

. u 1 872 n engineering It was beg n in , fi ished 1 880 r in , and cost ove It is a in a n d as nine and a qu rter miles length ,

' cen ds o from G schenen to its highest point , se a a n d feet above the level , then descends aga in to Airolo on the Itali an side . It can be traversed by express train in less ra than a q u arter of an ho u r . It is a st nge sensation th a t comes over u s as we lea ve o an d a a r G schenen , see little d k hole in the u a u s side of the mo nt in before , into which 170

MO NT N SE R ILRO D T NNELS U AI PAS S, A A S, U we plunge ; then after a short period of dark s i u ness , lighted by lantern , we ss e out on the

. The a i other side ch nge is ndeed striking , we a s u air h ve pa sed from north to so th , the is is u i warmer , the sky bl e , the Sw ss chalets are r epl aced by the white stucco or stone houses of the Italians . W e might return to Switzerland by the bu t i u same route , it will be an nstr ctive jour ney to return by the newer an d longer tu nnel i an d e m of the S mplon , at the sam ti e we can have at leas t a glimpse of the exceedingly a i a a all be ut ful Italian l kes , which fter belong W in part at least to Switzerland . e shall have time , however , only for a fleeting trip . a at Instead then of leaving the tr in Airolo , L u we go on to ocarno , beautifully sit ated on Lake M aggiore ; a town which belongs to u in u Switzerland , altho gh architect re , scenery and character of th e people it is typically

Italian . L is a a ocarno a pleasant pl ce to st y in , with i a ts southern vegetation , its or nges and flowers , its groves of chestnut trees an d vines ; its n as climate mild eve in winter , sheltered it is by the mou ntains tow ard the north . An interesting excursion is to the vill age of 171 MO N IN SE R LRO D S NNEL U TA PAS S , AI A , TU S

Muralto u m u , once a flo rishing co m nity , with a s r La a n d ca tle whe e lived the Swiss ndvogt , still of interest as a work of the Lo m bards . The gradu a l decadence of this city w as au Be stu rz c sed by a rg , or landslide , which , T a t Be lle nz destroying the icino Bridge , transferred com merce to M agad ino ; an d r u a u e also by religious pe sec tion , which c s d a n u mber of the best and most ind u st rio u s families to emigrate about the m iddle of the x m r a am sixteenth cent u ry . Si ty i po t nt f ilies moved aw ay an d settled down in ZUrich a n d m -k O re lli an d Bern , a ong them the well nown m Mu ral to fa ilies . Had we time we should enjoy a trip on ‘ a au u L a a the ste mer over the be tif l ke M ggiore , a u a a a as the l rgest of the gro p of It li n l kes , am a s n a a a La o its n e indic te , visiti g P ll nz , ven , a a a n d Baveno , the Borrome n Isl nds , , the gem

all a . of them , the Isola Bell Bu t i a as far Lu i remain ng on the bo t , as no , a a m ra m we then descend , and t ke the ste t w ay to Ponte Tresa on L ake Lu ga no ; then by Lu a a a a n Lu a an d a . bo t g i to g no Porlezz g no , a s Ca T one of the l rge t towns of the nton icino , r u r an d lies in the midst of wonde f l scene y , has certa inly one of the most bea u tif u l sit u a 172

MO N IN E R LRO D T NNEL U TA PASS S , AI A S , U S

D u a a the chy of Mil n , cl imed by both , ) where u the Swiss had fo gh t on the side of the Sfo rz as . a r r a Fr ncis desi ed , howeve , to m ke the Sw iss an d a at a r a his friends , after their defe t M ign no he offered them eithe r six h u nd red tho u s a nd

a L a r a duc ts , or the possession of oc no , V lle

Lu a an d . T maggia , g no , Mendrisio hey chose

a n d r m m r the latter offer , f o this ti e for th ee h u ndred years the thi r teen origin al Ca ntons a r a ruled these pl ces , being rep esented by L a r r m andvogt , elected for two ye s , f o the variou s cantons in a certain fixed o rde r . This lasted till the French Revol u tion a n d the He lveti an Repu blic pu t an end to the o ppres u 1803 r r sive . r le , and in the people ecove ed their freedom ; in the s a me yea r it beca m e one of th e cantons of Sw itze rl a nd . a a Lu a a Shortly fter le ving g no , the bo t s O r a fo r m a n a r h as pa ses by i , where y ye s u a r a n d lived the disting ished p t iot , poet , a ar novelist , A ntonio Fog zz o , whose novel transl a ted into English u nder the title of The Sai n t h as a - E , m de him well known to nglish n e an d American readers . In o of his most au u a a be tif l poems , in which the n mes of m ny of the little hills an d valleys we a re now p ass in u r u u a r g occ r , he rep od ces w ith sing l felicity 174 M N A E RA LRO D T NNEL OUNTAI P SS S, I A S, U S the half mel ancholy impression m ade on a u m an at deeply religio s , as he listens eventide to the bells as they call to one another from u mo ntain and valley ,

(All the bells speak)

o me let u s ra an d ee C p y w p, Fro m the heights an d from the deep

r th e n fo r em a ee Fo livi g, th th t sl p,

r mu sin u nkno n an d so mu ain Fo so ch w , ch p , Ha ve mercy Lo rd !

ll u ffer n an d a n A s i g p i , Th at do es no t pray to thee ; All erro r that in vai n D oe s n o t give way to thee ;

ll o e a mu o m ain A l v th t st c pl ,

Yet e d n o a to ee yi l s sw y th ,

ard o n O Ho O n e ! P , ly (Echoes from the val l ey) ” 0 Ho ly On e .

From Porlezza we take the steam tramway

a a La C . ag in as far as Men ggio , on ke omo T a u his l ke , perhaps the most beautif l of all a u a It lian lakes , is likewise fra ght with m ny literary and historical remin iscences . Here ’ is the scene of Man z o n i s famou s romance The Betr thed an d o , here in the town of C m a o o , is the birthpl ce of the elder and the u an d u yo nger Pliny , of the famo s physicist , 175 MO N N SE R LRO D NNEL U TAI PAS S , AI A S , TU S

a am has b c u r a Volt , whose n e e ome nive s lised r a m as a unit in elect ic l meas u re ents . O n e of the loveliest spots in the world is Be lla io u a s ro mo n gg , sit ted at the ba e of the p a a tory between the two rms of the l ke , with its h andsom e villas an d gardens an d hotels in the midst of a l andscape which u nites a u ra b au almost every element of n t l e ty , lofty a u a r a mountains , cle r , bl e w te s of the l ke , r an d an d a a n d all t ees flowers , gr ss , over the n a soft an d tender bl u e of a It li an sky . Bu t a a u u rr m g in we m st h y on , this ti e b ack towards Sw itze rl and by a nother ro u te ; from Como by rail to Laveno on La ke Mag i o re a a an d g , then by ste mer to Stres then by railroad to D omodossol a a n d the Sim plon . Among the grea t histo ric p asses of the r ar h as m w Alps , none in ecent ye s beco e so ell h a m r known as the Simplon . T e n e is fi st 1 235 a n d a mentioned in , is pplied to the T Hospice on the p ass ( 6592 feet) . his hospice which belonged to the Knights Hospita llers d isa . r a ra u a of St John of Je us lem, g d lly p pears from sight in the fifteenth cent u ry a n d w as fin ally sold in 16 55 to the Sto cka lpe r

a r u w r a ra r . f mily of B ig e , hich ente t ined t velle s T he r a fame of the Simplon , howeve , d tes from 176

MO N IN SSE R LRO D NNEL U TA PA S, AI A S , TU S the time when Napoleon saw its str ategical m au a a i portance , and c sed the present c rri ge u l 1 80 1—05 road to be b i t over it in , and built a set of b arr acks on the su mmit which forms the present new hospice . It is interesting to read the impressions made on distingu ished men by the Simplon a u the Pass , before and fter the b ilding of new “ T u W t road . h s ordswor h speaks of this ” a gloomy p ss , of

The immea surable height

oo d deca n n e er to be d e a ed Ofw s yi g, v c y ,

The a o nar a o f a er a l st ti y bl st w t f l s,

And in the na rro ren at e er urn w t, v y t ,

W n d ar n W n d e dered an d o r o rn i s thw ti g i s, b wil f l ,

The o rren oo in ro m th e cl ea r u e sk t ts sh t g f bl y,

The ro k a mu e red o e u o n o u r ear c s th t tt cl s p s,

The u n e ered l o u d an d re o n o f the ea e n f tt c s gi h v s, umu an d ea e th e darkn e and the l T lt p c , ss ight , Were all the o rk n o f o n e m n d the ea u res w i gs i , f t

Of the ame a e o o m u o n o n e ree s f c , bl ss p t ,

C ara er o f the G rea o a e h ct s t Ap c lyps , The e an d m o o f E ern typ s sy b ls t ity,

Offir an d a t an d m d an d Wi ou en d . st, l s , i st , th t

Ru skin has a whole ch apter on the Simplon Prazteri ta a in his , which he begins in his ch r acteristic wa r an d r y, Mo e mo e deeply every i a hour , in retrac ng Alpine p ths , by my fireside , 177 MO N IN SSE R ILRO D T NNEL U TA PA S , A A S , U S

a a a the wonder grows on me , wh t He ven m de

fo r a nd a C a m s o o the Alps , g ve the h oi its f t , an d a its u a the genti n bl e , yet g ve no one the

a m . the he rt to love the A nd in Alps , why espe cially th a t mighty centra l pass was so divi n ely

a a a a pl nned , yet no one to p ss it except g inst

l Na a a n d a a ro a their wi ls , till poleon c me m de d No r n a n o u over it . often , si ce , with y j y; tho gh in tru th the re is no othe r piece of be a u ty a n d u u m a power , f ll of h n interest of the most a ar all u a i str ngely v ied kind , in the mo nt n

as a te r scenery of the globe , th t , w ith its two m a a a n d a tre m e n in l cities , Genev Mil n , its two

u a u a a a n d V al do s v lleys of vestib le , the V l is ’ d Osso la an d o a rr ; its own , not des l te nor te ible , bu t ' a u i u u a n d wholly be t f l , pper region of rose ” u a snow . And nder the d te of the fifteenth of

u 1844 d e J ne , , he gives the following bit of

o n th m o scription of an evening spent e Si pl n . “ A t eight this evening I w as sitti n g o n the m w a i highest col of the Si plon , tching the l ght die on the B reitho rn ; nothing rou nd m e bu t a n d u r r a n d rock lichen except one p ple flowe ,

- - r m e w r r . the fo get not , hich g ows everywhe e a w as r a a r a r My w lk home ve y lonely , st r fte st w as m o u t a a i e co ing bove my he d , the w h t hills gle a ming among them ; th e gu lph of 178

MO N N E R ILRO ADS NNEL U TAI PASS S . A , TU S

T o -d ay the t raveller need n o lo nger cro ss the Si m plon in this primitive w ay; a no the r u h as b u r a n d l t nnel een b ilt , still longe sti l more m a rvello u s as a piece of e ngineering

. Wh skill th a n th a t of the St Gotth a rd . e reas the l a tter is only nine a n d o n e-q u a rter m iles

m a n d o n e in length , the Si plon is twelve ru q u arter miles . It is const cted w ith a do u ble

a a a a n d - a p ss ge , e ch sixteen one h lf feet wide and sepa ra ted by a dista nce of fifty-five fee t

a . ra u u between their xes It is st ight thro gho t , except a shor t c u rve at e ach end in o rde r to

r u r join its t acks with the o tside ra il oad lines . The most striking diffe rence between this

u an d . a is rad fo r t nnel the St Gotth rd the g e , it is only two pe r tho u s a nd on the Swiss side an d u a ta a seven per tho s nd on the I li n side , a u m b the ltit de of the for er eing feet , that of the l a tter being while the s u m mit

o is only feet . An enormo u s s aving f the cost might h ave been m ade by d riving u at a u a u as w as the t nnel m ch higher ltit de ,

in a the . a r . is done the c se of St Gotth d As it , i ca n be u s however , the S mplon sed for expres r an d can rr r a t fa r se vices , ca y f eight less a expense th an the St . Gotth rd w ith its high T u a an d gr ade . his t nnel brings Genev French 180

CHAPTER VIII

IN THE HEA RT o r TIIE A LPS

RO M r u a B ig e , the first st tion on the the u i c Sw iss side of t nnel , we go d re tly a t n ra to Visp , the e t nce of the Visp

a r m o rm a o n V lley . F o Visp t Ze tt is nly twe ty

m w a as w as two iles . Yet hen t ken on foot ,

ar fir a o necess y when I st visited it , it is l ng ’ w r h m and e ary d ay s j ou ney . T e second ti e rm a r a w as a u I visited Ze tt , the o d p rtly b ilt ,

bu t fr m a w as m . o St lden on . it inco plete In r a m a s as ra i o der to s ve ti e , soon we left the t n , a u w as fa r a r ltho gh the night not off , w e st ted o u t n as fa r a s N a u on foot , hopi g to get ikl s

a r o r a th a t night . I sh ll neve f get th t n ight

W e a r u a r journey . went forw d in tter d kness , so th ick th a t we co u ld not see whe re to pl a ce o u r feet ; the rocks on one side a n d the deep

a r r ro u r vine on the othe , we e so sh ded in d a rkness th a t they co u ld not be dis tingu ished

o m a o r a n d r i u a fr e ch the , we we e cont n lly in d anger of m aking a fa lse step . Far be low us 183 IN THE HEART OF THE ALPS we could hear the roar of the tumbling waters of the Visp . Above u s the w alls of the narrow l r u a as val ey rose almost pe pendic l rly , it seemed in the d arkness ; in the n arrow strip of sky a u u a u above , the st rs shone with nus l l stre , while far towards the top of the m ou ntain on a the other side of the valley , was single light “ shin in g like a good deed in a n au ghty hu t a a world , from the or ch let of some upl nd shepherd . The l ast visit I made to Zerm a tt was more

a if a . comfort ble , not more enjoy ble It was a r a l a m de in the ca s of the new r i ro d , crowded a r with tourists , noisy with idle ch tte , which completely pu t to flight the deeper sentiments a th a t come from the high mou nt ins . Yet when we arrive at Zerm a tt an d h ave engaged o u r an d a s o u t r rooms , h ve pa sed of the c owded an d r an d streets with their hotels , shops , idle s , a u r ar a a h ve gone even a few h nd ed y ds w y , we feel th a t here indeed is the very shrine of mou nta in worship . Of all the famous m ou ntain resor ts in has Switzerland , none a more interesting a m C history th n Zer a tt . rowded and over it -d a u a crowded as is to y, yet its pop l rity is of m a a a far co p r tively recent d te , more recent 183 IN T HE HEART O F THE ALPS

a a C a r a a n d Lu th n th t of h monix , Inte l ken

. T bu t a u ra fo r u a d cerne his is n t l , it is sit te

a r u a n a r deeper in the he t of the mo nt i s , f ther r “h aw ay from the o rdin a y ro ad of t ra vel . ile Ch amonix can be rea ched by w ay of the Co l de B a l me a n d the Tete No i re of the Rhone

a an d k r m a w a V lley , l i ew ise f o Genev by y of C u Salla n che r l ses , , etc on the othe side , Zerm a tt is a t the end of the long a n d diffic u lt a a n d ca n be V lley of the Visp on one side , ’ reached only from V a l d Ao sta a n d V a l T o u rn a n che by the high gl a cie r pass of the Théo d u le ; hence it is n o wonde r th a t for so a u r m a s a n d m ny cent ies it see ed in cce sible , rem a ined practica lly u nknow n . To -d ay the vill age o f Ze rm a tt is a little a - m m u a u five u d r d o u p rish co nity of bo t h n e s ls , sca ttered over the m eadows in the deep va lley

hIa tte rho rn r s ro opposite the , which ise f m its ring of gl acie rs like a n obelisk The n a me M a tterho rn its elf com es fro m the Ge rm a n w ord fo r m a a a o a m e dow , M tt , so ls the n e of the village Zer-m att (Pre Bo rn e ) as it w as once “ called ( in the All a ro u nd a re wa m o u ta m any beau tifu l terfa lls . A high n in pass ove r the gl a ciers leads to T o u rn a n che

a a re V lley , in which on the frontier to be 18 4

IN THE HEART OF THE ALPS

a Eu found the highest fortific tions in rope , perh aps in the world . Another path leads Matter rat over the g , and eastward below the r M atterhorn to B reu il . O ve the Zm u tt an d ’ Ferpecle gl acier one can reach the V al d Hé ’ r Trift o ch Val d An n iviers rens , ove the j , the over the Findelen an d Alla lin gl acier the Saastha l a n d r IVeisse T ove the hor , the vil r r- l age of Macu gn aga . Ne a e by excu rsions are Riflelber r m u m these to the g, f o whose s mit a m agnificent View is h ad of the m ighty R a r u ar - Monte os g o p ; to the Schw z See , and

’ to the Horn li at the foot of the Matterhorn an d to the Findelen Gl acier . There is a cer tain fascin ation in letting our im agina tion wander b ack over the obscu re r F r ff histo y of this valley . a o in the beginning u u of things we see it in tter solit de , with no i bu t am liv ng beings , the ch ois on its rocks , an d the crows so aring arou nd the su m mit of T w the M a tterhorn . hen the snow as deep u a an d a r on the mo nt in , the gl cier c ept down u f rther over the green meadows beneath . Legend tells u s th a t when the W ander ing Jew p assed over the Théo d u le for the first saw a a an d u time , he l rge flo rishing city there , and prophesied that when he came a second 185 IN THE HEART O F THE ALPS time forests a n d m e adows wo u ld extend ove r the ru ins of the a ncient city ; a n d when

r u r o u a h im u o n r his thi d jo ney sh ld le d p y de , the fo rests a n d me ad o ws w o u ld n o lo nger o o r l bu t a n d u a l . exist , sn w ice wo ld c ve things How soon the fi rst spa rsely-sca tte red in

a a a m w a a o h bit nts c e this y, we c nn t tell , perh aps a few st raggle rs f ro m the va st bod y of No rthe rn B a rba ri a ns as they swept o ver Switze rl a nd a n d o ve rflowed to the Ita li a n

o m a slopes of the Alps . F ro m the fa ct th a t R n

a n o u o n T héo d u le a coins h ve bee f nd the P ss , it has been c o nject u red th a t Rom a n s o ldie rs m ay h a ve u sed this pass to come fro m the valley o f Aosta to the v a lle y o f the Visp a n d

L r o thence to the Rhone . a te the pi u s folks of Aosta h u rried ove r the pa ss to the s a nc ’ r a y T tu a ie s a a n d to . in the V l is Sch w z . St heo

u m a a m to d le of Sion . hi self . who g ve his n e

Ye ll r so w a n the pass . t a these we e fe d fa r between th a t the v a lley w as u nkn o w n except for a few vagu e refe rences ; a n d a st o ry is told u u 1778 y u m e n led how in A g st . . seven o ng , N a o u t r m r o by ichol s Vincent . set f o G ess ney

u o a r o a n d fi a for the nkn w n gl cie w rld . n lly

a a o o n the a r a me g ined p int w te shed . n d by m R D r o d the ock of iscove y , whence they lo ke 186

IN T HE HEART O F T HE ALPS history of Ch a mon ix is likewise the pionee r o f

ha d r a Zerm a tt . He u nde t ken a system a tic ra h a d ro ed Sim explo tion of the Alps , c ss the m o a m a o u r plon (fro Gen ) , de the t of Monte

R a w a a u a a a n d r a l os by y of M c gn g othe v leys , a n d r a u u u 12 1789 a n d e ched Bre il , A g st , , two d ays l a ter m ade the first rec o rded pass age by a ra Théo d u le a a n d r a t veller of the P ss , e ched w Zerm a tt on the evening of A u gu st 1 4 . It as ’ the a cco u nt of Sau ss u re s trip pu blished in 1 796 a r a a wn , th t fi st m de Zerm tt kno to the outs ide world . 1792 a a m r In . the bot nist Schleicher c e f om Bre u il ove r the Théo d u le ; a n d in 18 0 0 the

r E m a a m r m V a l o rn a n ch fi st nglish n c e f o T u e .

182 1 Sir IIersche l m a r In , John de the fi st a r r w a recorded scent of the B eitho n , by y of Théo d u le a n d a a r a r IIirz e l- E r the , ye l te sche of Zij rich m a de the to u r of M o nte Ros a fro m w a o f a u a a a n d u r Visp , by y M c gn g the so the n valleys to Ze rm a tt .

l\Io st all a ra l r r . if not , the bove t ve le s we e

u r scie n tists ~ e o lo ists a o r m p e , g g . bot nists ento ol ogists ; the d ay of the to u rists p u re a n d si m ple h ad co me . T he a u y 2 4 1835 not yet d te of J l , ,

Mr . C a n m r a fo r says oolidge , is i po t nt one Z a fo r m a fi s h erm tt , it rks the rst vi it of C ris 188 IN THE HEART OF THE ALPS tian Moritz Engelh ardt an d wife of Stras

u . T ra u b rg his vene ble man , who d ring the

ar m next twenty ye s visited Zer att ten times , u a a an d loved the mo ntains p ssion tely , by his m a a writings , books , sketches , ps and ctivity in genera l w a s the m ain cau se of the rising pop

u larit a . was u y of the v lley It only j st , then , th at the people shou ld ca ll him the Father of

m a . r m a a Zer tt F om this time on , Zer tt as tou risten u n kt h as r m an d m r u p g own ore o e , ntil - a r a u a r a to day , it st nds , pe h ps witho t iv l , over a ia a r C a sh dowing ce tain sense even h monix , as being the one pl ace above all to be seen in

Switzer l and . An interesting ph ase of its history is that of m the development of its hotels , being an epito e of the l arger subject of the r ise of the whole

- Swiss system of hotel keeping . In early days it was difficu lt for the few strangers to n find lodging a d food . S au ss u re in his first 1789 m a u s visit in , entioned bove , tells of his “ dis agreeable exper iences : Nou s e fimes une ’ peine extreme a trou ver u n e m aison o il l on vo u lfit nou s loger ; les cab aretiers étaient ou absents o u de mau va ise volonté . Le cu ré q u i loge quelq u efois les voyageu rs nou s fit ré ’ pondre qu il n e voulait rien nou s vendre . En 189 IN THE HEART O F T HE ALPS

a u a - a E fin , notre br ve g ide Je n B ptiste rin , chez u i u a o o a u x a u q no s vi ns l gé ch lets de Bre il ,

n r r o o forca u ca ba etie a n u s recev i r . The fi rst inn exp ressly esta blished fo r t ra v

w La r r m r as a D r . u a elle s th t of be , which e ined

w r the only one till 1852 . T o ye a s l a te r m a rks

a a r the beginning of the ru sh . In th t ye two r a d new inns we e est blished , two new e itions of

- r u a n d E gu ide books we e p blished , the nglish ass au lt of the Monte Rosa w as begu n ; it w as b n E m 855 first ascended y a nglish a n in 1 . In La r o 1 854 D r . u be sold his inn t Alex ander who m r a Seiler , of Blitzingen , i p oved it , ret in

ra a a n d u ing some t ces of the origin l inn , th s bega n his ca reer as the m ost fa m o u s h o tel

r a Eu ro . O f keeper in S witze l nd , if not in pe all the hotel - keepe rs co n nect ed w ith th e h istory m a r o m r e n thu sias of Zer tt , howeve , n ne is o e a r o o n a n d tic , p t i tic , p etic , y eve tinge with a r a a r m a n ro m mystic l fervo , th n th t poo f the V a l T o u rn a n che w h o pu t u p a h u m ble hu t 1852 o n Theo d u le a r in the P ss , whe e he sold

r a e f a n d a n u n d e rta k b e d , che se , cof ee , wine , ing which it is s a id he w as enco u raged in by a gift of one tho u s and fra ncs from a n Eng

Sir r W a r m a . lish n Alf ed ills . p ssing ove the Théo d u le a m b r 14 1852 u P ss on Septe e , , fo nd 190

IN THE HEART OF THE ALPS

O n the man an d his tent on the Pass . a spo t l m u t s ightly sheltered by so e rocks , which j u a up from the s rf ce of the snow , was pitched a u a wretched tent , bo t ten or twelve feet long , and six or seven high , inhabited by an old m an an d u m m his wife , who , d ring the su er at Co l months , dwelt the crest of the , and in this frail an d dreary abode braved the terrors - Th m an of the tem pest an d the snow storm . e o u t a u pointed to us , with gre t pride , a r de ru u u st ct re , b ilt of loose stones , which it was a ar an d the labor of his d ys to re , which when w m finished as to conta in fou r bedroo s . It w wa as already half y up to the first floor . This ch a let was to be dignified with the n am e an an d w as a a r r a of hotel , to be r the pp op i te “ title of the Bou qu etin . He asked for a su bscription towards the bu ilding of his hou se a an d u on the gl cier , tho ght more of making w u n T e kno n the glow of a s rise on the St . h o “ d u le th a n of mere pecu ni ary gain . Mes “ ’ ”

u r a e a a u l h u m an ité . sie s , he s id , j tr v ille po r “ T ar an d u u u a his h mless advent ro s enth si st , W “ h u . as a an d contin es Mr ills , dis ppeared , a a m a the c bin in the . midst of the gl cier re ins a n d u th e V IO as he left it , will remain so , ntil h as a a lence of the storm prostr ted its w lls , 191 IN THE HEART O F T H E ALPS or some s u ccesso r sh a ll be fo u nd to inherit ’ ” m u a m a n o o the old a n s enth si s d l ve f n a t u re . 5 The conquest o f M o nte Ro s a in 18 4 m a rks a r d fo r rm a a n d the opening of new pe io Ze tt , in the next ten yea rs a ll the o the r pea ks ro u nd

T h a m a a bou t were clim bed . e s e ye r a lso m ar as E a r n ks the l t visit of ngelh dt , the eighty

ar a n d r a r o r d a . ye s old , th ee ye s bef e his e th Ive h ave a l ready en u me ra ted the chief ex

cu rsio n s r m r a . O f all f o Ze m tt these , those to the Riffe lbe rg a n d G o rn e r G ra t a re the m ost r u a n d fo r r f eq ented . . indeed , it is these t ips alone th a t m ost people com e to Ze rm a tt . A t the tim e of my first a n d seco nd visit to the G o rn e r ra s ha d G t , those who w ished to vi it it

m o r o r b a . No w to cli b it on foot , on h se ck anothe r of the i n evit a ble S wiss m o u nta in

o railroads c arries u s in a sh o rt ti m e to the t p. ra r a Eu r It is the highest il o d in ope , next to the J u ngfra u ro ad . It is a n interesting t rip ; we pass o ver r a n d a u ro u u n a n d b idges vi d cts , th gh t n els o r a n d fi a m o u t u f ests , n lly co e pon the high a a u r a n d u m m r upl nd p st res , which in sp ing s e a re one m a ss of the m o st bea u tifu l w ild flowe rs

o m a r a o as in the w o rld . S e y e s g we left the ra a t th e s a a a t in highe t st tion , Frenchm n 192

IN T HE HEART OF T HE ALPS and domina ting all is the mighty pyr am id of hIatterho rn r o ar the , rising shee up int the cle a a r r atmosphere , with b nner of cloud fo eve m waving from its s u m it . Th e view fro m the s u mmit of the C o rne r a a ff r m s as Gr t o ds one of the ost exten ive , well as au i u a ra m a a u ra r be t f l , p no s of n t l scene y in r a a r a the wo ld . Inste d of we rying the e der m I with descriptions of y own , w ill here transcr ibe one of the well -known pa ss ages o f ’ T a Gla ci ers o the Al s ynd ll s f p , in which , with his u su a l scientific acc u ra cy as well as lite r s o u t a fe a ary skill , he point the ch racteristic tures of the scene .

Loo ki n g tow ards the o rigi n of the C o rner G a r i w as o u n d b a d co l u o n l cie the v ew b ed y wi e . p which stood two lo vely ro u n ded em in en ce-s en a m The v s o n elled wi th sn o w o f pe rfect pu ri ty . h e l ur i d l r in u n as if h ir ike b n she si ve the s light . t e su rfa ces had bee n melted a n d reeo n gea lcd to fro sted mirro rs fro m whi ch the ra v s were fl un g. To th e right o f these were the bo u n d i n g crags o f n Ro a an d n b d o f m o u n ai n Mo te s , the the o y the t

s its r o f ra an d o a o fsn o s. To it elf, with c est c g c t w the right of Mon te Ro sa an d a lmo st ri v al lin g it in t was as mass the L ska mm a heigh , the v t of y . r u an d ra m u n ai o s d c i n o gh c ggy o t n , to wh e le ges l g 194 IN THE HEART OF THE ALPS

he i ann as r a t snow wh ch c ot gr p its steepe w lls, sometimes leanin g over them in impendi n g preci o i r a an d n l a a an pi es , wh ch often b e k se d wi d v l ches h the L skamm an d in to t e space below . Between y Monte Ro sa lies a large wide va lley in to whi ch m un a n ur min r both o t i s po their snows, for g the e the W r G a r Ro a a este n l cie of Monte s , noble ice t am r m m a i u an d rm a n s re , which f o its gn t de pe ne ce m am u n deser ves to i pose its n e po the trun k glacier . B rn r u n u r T in Ca r o the o ded sho lde s of the w sto , a a r n at fir i an d i i gl cie desce ds, st wh te sh n ng, then u r aul fi u r an d r s ddenly b oken into f ts , ss es p eci ices i are a t r ar r ai r an d the p , wh ch f e w d ep ed, glacier joins tha t of Mon te Rosa befo re the j un c N tion of the latter wi th the tru nk stream . ext am a r a ar a r c e boss of ock , with second y gl cie in n as a r r an d a r cl gi g to it if pl ste ed ove it , fte it the Schwarze G lacier bou nded o n o n e side by the

r th rn an d the r b T i n l u . B ei o , on othe y the w Po l x O r u r t r T mi n ve its ppe por ion ise the win e ences , pure an d white ; then fo llows a smooth an d u n d ul at in a a r a n év é o rn u g sp ce , fte p ssi g which the n is t p n t a n o f a an d a m i o collectio pe ks ch s s ; these, r are m n u rt r n an d a r howeve , e ded f he dow the gl cie moves smoothl y an d calmly to meet its brother in N m rif G ma a . t T ti a r the in v lley ex co es the l cie , embraced o n all sides by the rocky arm s of the r rn m a r r a bu t B eitho ; its ss is not ve y g e t , it descends in a gracefu l sweep an d exhi bits tow ar ds its ex 195 IN THE HEART O F THE ALPS

a tremity a successio n o f be u tifu l bands . After w ards we ha ve the gl acier o fthe Peti t Mo n t Cervin

an d o . Théo d u le i a t r are the th se of St , wh ch l t e last tha t empty thei r fro zen ca rgo es into the the a r valley of the Corn er. All gl cie s here me n tio n ed a re welded t o gether to a co mmo n t ru nk which sq u eezes i tself t hr o ugh the n arro w defile a t oo n the base o f the Riffe lho rn . S a fterw a rds the m ra n co m o n u d a r ro o i es be e c f se , the gl cie d ps rmi n a o n an d o u s u steeply to its te ti , pl gh p the in ro n o f its rr s b meado ws f t it with i e isti le share . “ ' a n t Rifle lh o rn a n d r i o v In li e wi h the , is ng er the la tter so high as to m ake it a lmo st v ani sh by o m ari o n was T a n o o f the a r c p s , the it belisk M tte rn ro m the as o f i c Fu r e G a r ho , f b e wh h the gg l cie

On h o stru ggles d o wn w ards . t e ther side a re the Zm u tt G a r the c on u a n d o a n l cie , S h b hl . the H chw g, fro m the Den t Bl a n che ; the G a be lho rn a n d the rifti a r ro m su m m ts c he a r os T gl cie s . f the i whi h th e

m ac r o th W ss T o f e e i h m . n ames . hen c e the gl ie s o Describin g a cu r ve still fa rther to the right we o n a s o f Mise ha be l a r a n d alight the pe k the . d k r c r m d t o u ro m the craggy p e i pices f o this si e . h gh f r as a s o f n Aeggischho m they a ppea c ve s ow . n b the Al hu be l the Alla lin ho rn the Sweepi g y p . , R m fischh o rn a n d Strahl ho rn a ll o ft m ma s y p . , he je ’ r a ass o f th e “e iss tho r an d tic , we e ch the p the T co m Cim a di Ja z zi . his pletes the glorio us circui t ' ” wi thin the observer s view . 196

IN T HE H EART O F T HE ALPS w all le a m in m o o n r o u a g g in the light , th ee th s nd feet a bove . The e aste rn face of the pro monto ry is hewn

as n w o f a o r down , if by the si gle s eep sw d , from the c rest of it to the base ; he w n c o n ca ve an d m o o a a a s ooth like the h ll w of w ve , on e ch

a r a u r o f a o u fl nk of it the e is set b tt ess , both b t

u a r a o o u t r m eq l height , thei he ds sl ped f o the m a in w a ll a bo u t seven h u nd red feet bel o w

m r m o its s u m it . Th a t on the no th is the st im porta nt ; it is as sh a rp as the fro n t a l a n gle

a a a n d r a w a to the of b stion , sloped shee y

- a r n o u t u r u r north e st , th o w i g sp beyond sp , u ntil it te rm i n a tes in a long low c u rve of

u r a t o a r a ba r sset p ecipice , whose fo t g e t y of ‘ a r Co l ( r n as the tgl cie of the de e vi lies level

T r o n w as a l ake . his spu is e of the fe po in ts

w m C r from hich the ass of the Mt . e vin is in

I o n n o anywise a ppro ach a ble . t is a c ti u a ti n

m a r m o u a a n d of the son y of the nt in itself , affords u s th e m ea n s of ex a m ining the ch ar

ro m acter of its m a teri a ls . As we see f this passage the hIa tte rho rn h a s inspi red Ru skin to som e of his highest fligh ts o f eloq u ence . Perh aps nothing th a t he eve r w ro te is m ore deeply i m pressed w ith the m agic q u a lity of his style th a n his desc ription of the Zm u tt 198 IN THE HEART OF THE ALPS

i s. Glacier , a name which he disl ke I mean r Red a myself , hencefo th to call it the Gl cier , becau se for two or thr ee m il es above its lower t u rfa ex remity , the whole s ce of it is covered a with blocks of reddish gneiss , or other sl ty al i m C cryst l ne rocks , so e fallen from the ervin , m r W s r m r u so e f om the ei sho n , so e b o ght ’ m Sto ckhi an d D d Erin bu t fro the ent , little u a an d rolled or gro nd down in the tr nsit , cover u a ing the ice , often fo r or five feet deep , with a a a ar a species of mac damis tion on l ge sc le , r anything bu t convenient to a t aveller in h aste . r u O r Highe p, the ice pens into b oad white u r a d r a fields and f rows , h rd and y, sc rcely fissu red all u u r C i at , except j st nde the erv n , i an d au a and form ng a silent solemn c sew y , a as m a r p ved , it seems , w ith white rble f om side to side ; bro ad enou gh for the m arch of a u a r an army in line of b ttle , but q iet as st eet u an d r of tombs in a b ried city , borde ed on each h and by ghostly cliffs of th a t faint granite ur far-a a p ple which seems , in its w y height , as u nsu bstanti al as the d ark bl u e th a t bou nds it ; the whole scene so ch angeless an d sou ndless ; so removed , not merely from the presence of b u t u men , even from their tho ghts ; so desti f r an d imm easur tute of all li e of tree or he b , so 199 IN T HE HEA RT O F T HE ALPS a r s m a a ble in its lonely b ightne s of jestic de th , th a t it looks like a wo rld fro m which not only the h u man b u t the spirit u a l presences had a n d a its a r a n u perished , the l st of ch gels , b ild r a m u a fo r r m u m s ing the g e t o nt ins thei on ent . h ad l a id themselves dow n in the s u nlight to ” a n r a r a r u . ete n l est , e ch in his white sh o d Fo r a long ti m e the M a tte rho rn w as con side re d a b a n d u in ccessi le , the g ides who willingly h a d end a nge red thei r lives in other ascents refu sed to tem pt pro vidence by a tt a ck

Ye t o a r b ing this hopeless task . t w d the egin ning of the second h a lf o f the ninetee nth cen

u r m e n a ra u a be t y , beg n g d lly to convinced

a a w as o a n d e flo rts th t the t sk not h peless , i were m ade from ti m e to ti me to ascend the o m n m e n b m u nt a in . A o g these the est know n r a a n o r a n o ro o o we e the It li G i d . P fess r J hn

E ar W y m r W o r o f a T a a n d . ynd ll , dw d h pe thy pl ace beside them we re the tw o gu ides C a rrel

T he r a w as c a a n d Michel C ro z . iv lry espe i lly

T a a n d \Vh m e r an d keen between ynd ll y p , now one a n d n o w the o the r w o u ld re ach a O n u u 2 0 18 6 0 T a r . highe point A g st . , ynd ll reached a height o f a bo u t feet : o n J u ly 19 186 2 m a u d . , cli bed few h ndre

1 Moder n ai nte rs Vo l . IV . 23 2 . P , . p 20 0

IN THE HEART O F T HE ALPS

a m u a fo r a u arr nge ents he co ld m ke there g ide , fo r he w as dete r m ined to m a ke the effo rt to

u a a a . climb the mo nt in by the e st f ce By good ,

r ba d u u E m a or rathe , l ck , a yo ng nglish n ,

L a D u a a a r r m m ord Fr ncis o gl s , ppe ed , f o who W hymper learned th a t old Pete r T a ugw a lde r had l a tely been beyond the Il orn li a n d h ad repo rted th a t he thou ght a n a scent of

a w as u a the M tterhorn possible pon th t side .

Wh m a a ymper then descended to Zer tt , eng ged r a n d r a r a u old Pete , to his g e t wonde c me pon

u l\Iiche l Cro z r his old g ide , , sitting in f ont of

m a the Monte Rosa Hotel . From hi he le rned th a t he was in the em ploy of a n English

r m a Re v . C ar u had cle gy n , h les H dson , who com e to Zerm a tt for the sa m e p u rpose as

i . e . a a r r . himself, , to scend the M tte ho n He h ad a u m an with him yo ng , only nineteen

a Mr . a h a d a r ye rs old , a H dow , who this ye fo r the first ti m e learned the a rt of m o u nta in bu t r climbing , who in spite of his inexpe ience h ad w r ar a a u u o r sho n em k ble ptit de for s ch w k . As it w as considered in advisable for two in dependent parties to a ttem pt the asce n t of the

u a at am a u a mo nt in the s e time , cons lt tion w as u a tw o a r held , with the res lt th t the p ties an d a a a united , greed to m ke the ttempt 2 02 IN THE HEART OF THE ALPS

w as together . Thus formed the little com a C u r u p ny of heroes , the onq ero s , as G ido Re a r y c lls them , who we e to make the first r a Th ascent of the hitherto vi gin mount in . e

a . Wh m p rty , thus completed , consisted of Mr y D u a r L a M . a per , ord Fr ncis o gl s , H dow , Cro z an d T au w alder an d Michel , old Peter g “ Cro z a m his son . So and I bec me co rades “ r . W m r an d as once mo e , says Mr hy pe , I threw myself on my bed and tried to go to at r r sleep , I wondered the st ange se ies of ch ances which h ad first separated us and then a u brought u s together gain . I tho ght of the mistake throu gh which he had accepted the

B. u engagement to Mr. ; of his nwillingness to adopt my rou te ; of his recommend a tion to t ransfer o u r energies to the ch a in of Mt . Blan e ; of the desertion of Carrel ; of the arrival of Lord Francis D ou gl as ; an d l astly of o u r m r accidental meeting a t Zer att . As I ponde ed u over these things I co ld not help asking , ‘ ’ W h a t next ? If any one of the links of this a a a r u h ad m f t l ch in of ci c mstances been o itted , ' ” ifl r what a d e e n t story I shou ld h ave to tell . The next morning they star ted from Zer ’ r matt , and befo e twelve o clock they had foun d a good position for the tent at a height 203 IN THE HEART O F THE ALPS W of feet . e p assed the rem a ining

u a a su n ho rs of d ylight , some b sking in the m o r a n d shine , so e sketching collecting , when

su n as a t a the went down , giving , it dep r ed , u r u rn ed glorio s promise for the mo row , we ret to the tent to a rr a nge for the night . Lo ng a fte r d u sk the cli ffs a bove echoed w ith o u r a u r a n d the u l ghte with songs of the g ides , we a a a an d for were h ppy th t night in c mp , ” feared no evil . IVe have no tim e to give in deta il the s to ry u a r of the conq est of the M tte horn , how , afte r a pa infu l bu t by no m ea ns ext rao rdin arily diffic u lt climb the whole party reached the u m saw far m a a s mit , below the the riv l p rty of Signor G io rd ano a n d Ca rrel ; how they enjoyed the u neq u alled view not only of the Swiss m o u ntains bu t even those of the AIa ri a u r a n d i m a a time Alps , h nd ed th rty iles w y , w hile feet bene a th them we re the green rm a d a r fields of Ze tt , otted with ch lets , f om m w a which bl u e s oke rose l azily . The re s a a ca n every combin tion th t the world give , a n d every contrast th a t the hear t co u ld de W e d o u u sire . remaine the s mmit for one hou r

‘ ’ r o O ne cro wded ho u f glo rio us life. 204

IN THE HEART O F THE ALPS

h a Lo u d . D u as contin ed to do so , not rd F o gl

m . asked me abo u t p . to tie on to old

r as ar a a T au w ald e r Pete , he fe ed , he s id , th t g wou ld not be a ble to hold his gro u nd if a slip

m u a r r - occu rred . A few in tes l te a sh a p e yed l ad ran R a r into the Monte os to Seile , the

r r a i h ad a n a a a p oprieto , s y ng he seen v l nche fall from the s u mmit of the M atterho rn onto h w the Matterh o rn gle tsch er . T e boy as re r w as p oved for telling idle stories ; he right ,

a saw . however , and this was wh t he Michel Cro z h ad a a a x e an d r r l id side his , in o de to a a r r w bso give Mr . H dow gre te secu ity as a l u te ly taking hold of his legs a n d p u tting his

fee t o n e i r o . , , by one , into the r prope positi ns As far as I know no one w as a ctu ally des cend

a r a a u ing . I c nnot speak with ce t inty , bec se the two leading m en were pa rti a lly hidden an r a r from my sight by inte vening m ss of ock , bu t it is my belief from the movem ents of r a Cro z a d as I their shoulde s , th t , h ving one a a w as act u r h ve s id , in the of t ning to go dow n m m BI a step o r two himself . A t this o ent r . a w a a Cro z a n d H do slipped , fell g inst knocked ar a a m a him over . I he d one st rtled excl tion

Cro z saw him a n d Mr . a from , then H dow flying down w ard ; in another moment H u dson 206 IN THE HEART OF THE ALPS was d ragged from his steps an d Lord D ouglas immedi a tely after him . All this was the work ’ m o z of a moment . I mediately we heard Cr s a a excl mation , old Peter and I pl nted our selves as firm ly as the rocks wou ld permit ; w as au u s an d the rope t t between , the jerk

a u s as m an . W e c me on both on one held , bu t the rope broke m idway between T au g w alder and Lor d Francis D ou gl as . For a few seconds we saw our unfor tu n ate co mpan r o n i a ions sliding downwa ds the r b cks , and o u t a u r spreading their h nds , endeavo ing to a s ave themselves . They p ssed from our u r r an d sight uninj ed , disappea ed one by one , fell from precipice to precipice on to the Mat terhorn le tsch er a a a g below , dist nce of ne rly r fou r thou sand feet in height . F om the mo ment the rope broke it was impossible to help them . ’ W a Mr . hymper s description of wh t fol lowed is fu ll of dram atic interest ; how all three of those who h ad been saved were para lysed with terror ; how they saw a strange phenomenon of two crosses formed by the u r u rising mists , which the s pe stitio s minds of the T augw ald ers connected with the acci a t dent ; how they finally arrived the hotel , 207 IN T HE HEART O F THE ALPS

r “h m e r a t an d where Seiler met y p the door , how this Na poleon of Swiss hotel -keepe rs bu rst into tears . T ra an d his is the t gedy of the Matterhorn , this is how the vi rgin mou nta in avenged her self u pon the rash individ u als who d ared to accomplish wha t h ad long been decl ared to Bu t a u l be impossible . ltho gh it saddened a l m a minds , th is accident only see ed to incre se r the a ttraction exe ted by the mo u nt a in . O a an d a a a thers c me m de the s me scent , Tynd all (in Carrel and G iordano an d ' 1 a W . 871 a a others In , a l dy , Miss lker , climbed it ; Lord Wentworth p as sed the night u all u r on the s mmit , spending in eighteen ho s there; som e m ade the ascent on their honey moon ; one d ay in 1 892 the top w as seen to be at a - crowded by le s t twenty three people , with u m u u an d 1902 u their n ero s g ides ; in , the g ides of Valtou rn anche carr ied a cross to the su m m it r a fitl u Car , whe e priest , y eno gh the Abbé a - a u rel , the gr nd nephew of the f mous g ide , \Ian a s aid m ass . l y other ccidents h a ve o c

u . 1900 m c rred Up to there were six victi s , r a r besides those of the fi st dis ste , on the Zer

a an d r u . m tt slope , two on the B e il slope Of a ll a r the lovers of the M tterho n , none 2 08

IN THE H EA RT OF T HE ALPS

bend d kn e did the o rk o f m e m e bo my e e s w y fe t , y l ws

d in the o d n ad o f m a n d u n o u n d pl an te h l i ste y h s . til I f so m H a n - n u o r and e n a r n m a k e e ve se t s pp t , th , chi g y b c an d su o r n m el h the a k o f m n k a t pp ti g ys f wit b c y ec .

a n i af last reached a place where I co uld st d n s e ty.

Then he tells how the d arkness grad u a lly ’ a an d u u e a m incre sed , the mo ntain s o tlines b c e indistinct ; how at times a wre a th of mist e n m ve lo ped them as in a grey veil . At the E j ambée the d arkness w as com plete ; of the wonde rfu l precipice below they sa w nothing

all . at And so they descended , step by step , r u u a a y u g owing ever more do btf l of h pp iss e , a ur h stening where they could , sp red on by their a nxiety .

Tha t headl o ng cli m b crea ted fo r m e a Matterho rn as et u n kn o n to me — a Ma rho rn n e b u t y w , tte i visibl , t angible in its sh ape in the sm a llest i n eq u a lities o f its su rface a n d h an ds an d fee t gro ped fo r th ese a n d reco g n ized h m the a m o u a n d o u n d the o d as t e by s e t ch . f h l s all m u a a u s e re co d by a e n o men al if y vis l f c ltie w llecte , ph ” ran r o f th e s ns s in m x r m . t sfe e e , y e t e i ties

They entered the V allon des G la co n s. T a a u a r h t desol te co loir , which is d k even in

a m was a s a as a m . T the d yti e , bl ck to b hey w a a r au a a groped their y c oss the M v is P ss , 2 10 IN THE HEART OF THE ALPS

Heaven alone knows how ; but as Rey brought a u his head against it with a fe rf l blow , they a n at decided to ligh t the l nter s , one either T u i end of the party . ime was req red for a an d this , bec use a breeze was blowing the a bu t a m tches were damp , at last the c ndle bu rned wi th a tiny yellow flam e .

The scen e ch an ged ; I on ce m o re saw by my side

Dan iel wh o m I had n ot seen fo r mo re than an ho u r . L d u as he w as fro m h ad to fo o ad ighte p e t , his he

ra d in a han dk rch f d u n d r his n he w ppe e ie tie e chi , e m d to me a s ran a ari io n a m an did n o t se e t ge pp t , I Ou r ran o f o n was m d to a r few kn o w . ge visi li ite ve y yards arou n d u s; I co u ld see tha t o n ly a few steps fro m a me the ro cks fell away i n to a dark byss. “ Bu t m s ran u d was a read o n the mo y t ge g i e l y ve, rapidly descen di ng i n to the chasm with his lan tern

s i n n to and fro as he h d in his hand . o o ed w gi g , el it I f ll w o b n d him s k n the n fi o f the k cl se ehi , ee i g be e t light , li e

ro m h n d a o n rk a th ro a mo th . F be i I felt vi le t je t e pe an d heard an o ath ; I tu rn ed ro u n d and o ut of the ta il o f my eye saw the o ther l an tern wa ving fan tasti ca lly amo n the dark cra s o t r th o her ran e g g , t ge he wi t st g u an o If the sh rds o f B u h h m f rms. ephe re il ad seen these ti ny lights wan dering al o ng the arete they would have th o ught them to be restless spi rits in to rmen t ; bu t at th at hou r the shepherd s were peace fu lly sleepi ng o n their co uches o fhay. IN THE HEART OF THE ALPS

a w a a n d And so they m de their y down down ,

u . u r witho t rest In the shelter of the co loi , they h ad bu t th e h a d u r not felt the cold , when y t ned T an d r a are the rocks of the ower , eg ined the te they were su ddenly ch illed th rou gh an d th ro u gh ; “ ” r the ve y reces ses of my pockets were fr ozen .

But D an iel flees o n ward like a spect re an d I after

him . heard the sou n d o f the an te rn r k n a a n I l , st i i g g i st his axe o r a a n the ro ks th e a n rn o d o n , g i st c ; l te sh t w

ards th n ro a a n s re ad h an d ad a o u w , e se g i , p lig t sh e b t

and its a to an d fro u es d to me a m it , le ps s gg te wh t gy

D an w The re a n nas tic fea ts iel as perfo rm i ng. spect d the h d a ar d u dd n to co m e a a n lig t is ppe e s e ly, be e visibl g i ’ u rth r o n the m an d ark an ro fil o o d o u t in a n f e ; s , le p e st

au r o o f . fe th e ro e ul lin m e ro m e o e le light I lt p p g f b l w ,

n ard w as a r a ra d o wn the and I plu ged do wn w s. It e l ce

Bu t the d s ra d s e n was nd d the pre cipice. e pe te e c t e e ;

m u to an d m wanderi ng light had sto pped . I ca e p it y

a w o n O h ! han d to u ched a d rk wall ; it as a woo den e . ho w pleasan t w as the to u ch o f s m oo th wo o d a fte r so mu ch ro ugh rock ! a li ttle d oo r o pe n ed to o u r pu sh ; I W e had d sc n d d the fo u n d myself in the hu t. e e e

r Matterho rn in less than three ho u s .

Bu t now we must tear ourselves aw ay from Z a an d DIatte rho rn a the erm tt the , perh ps W most fascin a ting of a ll Alpine centres . e u R a an d m st descend to the hone V lley , visit

2 12.

IN THE HEART (F THE ALPS

An d va so they made their y down and down , sh el tr without rest . In the of the couloir , they bu t ' had not felt the cold , hen they had turned the T a d th e the rocks of ower , regained arete they were su dd enly chilledh ro u gh and through ; “ ” h e vo cke ts e t e very rec sses of my w re frozen .

But D an iel flees o n ward ke a spectre an d I after

im . ard ou n d o fth an rn tr k n a a n h I he the s l te , s i i g g i st his ax e o r a a n s ro c s the an rn s ot do n , g i t the k l te h w

ard n ro s a a n s recl an d ad abou w s , the e g i , p light sh e t

an d its a to an d fro s ested to me hat m it , le ps ug w gy

D an e cmin The s ctr an nastic feats iel was p rf g. pe e d the t d sa ar d su dden l to b om s b a a n ligh i ppe e , ec e vi i le g i ’ u rth r o n the m an dark lcn ro fil o o d o u t in an f e ; s , p e st

aur o of . the roe u n m e ro m b o e le light I felt p lli g f el w ,

Iwas a r a ra do n the and I plu nged down wards . e l ce w

Bu h s ra d nt was n d the precipice. t t e de pe t esce e ed ; wandering light had stopped I came u p to it and my ou a r l t n Oh ! hand t ched d a k wa l ; i was a wo oden o e . how pleasan t was the tou chof sm o o th w o o d after so mu ch rough ro ck ! a little dor o pen ed to ou r push ; I o n m W e had d sc n ded f u d yself in the hu t. e e Ma t rhorn in an o r t e less th thre h u s.

Bu t now we must tea ourselves Zermatt and the most fascinating of must descend to the IN THE HEAH‘ OF THE ALPS the oth er points of irerest which re main for e er us . I cannot close this chapter , how v , ’ without quoting o n ce cno re from Guido Rey s e e in h he d e book , this tim a pasag whic ’ s es o et s ieelin the s e u crib with a p g trang , p i of h h in e l fting charm the g mounta s , mingl d with the no less profo nd charm of the nobler and more beauti fu l ph ses of h u manity . They had com e bars from one of their long tie e to and arduous trips , Herren had gon th e - the to drawing room of he hotel , guides i 0 1 r N o the r dark low room the g ound floor . young ladies had askd to be allowed to visit An the in u arters. d e guides , their ther in the dim obscurity , ful of smoke , lighted only st the u e a small lamp , r de , impassiv hats pulled down over en they began to IN THE HEART O F T HE ALPS

u and the chor s swelled and rose to the low , va u lted ceiling a n d filled the n arrow roo m with deafening w aves of so u nd ; the whole w a s a ra r a n d medley of st nge disco ds , high trills ’ deep bass notes which iss u ed from the men s m i powerfu l chests like the u s c of ch u rch o rga ns . T hey sang with the delighted fe rvor of grea t boys : ' Ri en n es t si bea u q u e ma pa tri e ; ’ ’ n es u e Rie n t si do x q u mo n ami e .

No n so a r as m na e lan d ( thi g f i y tiv ,

n so ee the r I e No thi g sw t as gi l lo v . )

“ W e au h d an d w ted a u we e a bu t l g e j bec se f l t s fe , the n ame o f the Ma tte rh o rn kept re t u rn i n g to o u r ho u and o u r fo r o u d e the o u e e o n d t gh ts lips , tsi h s b y the n arro a o f the ro o m a m d th e d a rkn s o f the w w lls . i e s

n o e red the u d a rk y ra m d . o u d ight , t w h ge . p i c l n o t see bu t w e e re a ll a a re o f re e n e e a u se it . w w its p s c b c its n u e n r ad ed o u r ea r s a nd we e as w e i fl ce pe v h t . f lt if

T he a were still as ce n d i ng the sh arp ridge . M tter

w G d H mse ho rn as n e e t e e r re e n as o . i visibl . y v p s t i lf “ I re me mbe r th a t o n e o f the s o n gs pleased u s so m u a w e re ea d r o r o u r m a n d the ch th t p te it th ee f ti es . as m en w e a m to the fin a re ra n w e a rd l t ti e , wh c e l f i , he tw o u r s r o e r n ro u the mo ke an d p e , ilve y v ic s isi g th gh s

s e be o n j o i n i ng the dee p t o n es o f the gu id e . Th y l ged to the two r s who a rr d a a b the mo u n ai n gi l , , c ie w y y t 2 14

CHAPTER IX

cnxmo x i x xx n 11s ENVIRO NS

NE of the m ost popu l a r Sw iss reso rts

- d a an d has b s to y, one which een longe t C a m C a u u known is h onix , ( mp s M ni tu s a a u a r ba n k , ) vill ge sit ted on the ight of h m m the Arve . T e co u nity owes its o rigin to a r u d the ncient Prio y of Benedictines , fo nde

0 0 I w as in 1 9 by a Genevese co u nt . t long known u nde r the n ame of Prieu ré . T he va l ley of Ch am onix is a bou t one tho u s a nd met res a se a r m u a to u bove the , extends f o so the st so th a C o l a m west long the Arve , between the de B l e r a a Bréve n t a n d on the no the st , the ch in of

u R u r u a Aig illes o ges to the no th , the mo nt ins of Lach a t a n d Van d agn e to the so u theas t a n d the ch a in of Mont Bl anc to the sou th . T he dwellings of the inh abi ta nts a re sca ttered w idely a n d form a l a rge n u m be r of vill ages o r ham an d u the r e a r lets , constit ting th e p ishes of C a o r r u A er a n d Le s h monix ( P ie ré) , rgenti e

Ho u ches .

CHAMONIX AND ITS ENVIRO NS

h as u scription on it , which been fo nd on the

o r o Co l de la Forcl az . F ne a rly n e tho u s a nd

a r a r m o is ye s fter this , howeve , no enti n u a a r 1091 fo nd of the v lley , till the ye , when Co u nt Aym o n of Geneva fou nded his Bene

T a re r dietine Abbey . hose who inte ested in “ the sho rt a n d sim ple a nn a ls of the po o r will find inte resting reading a bo u t the m edi ze val histo ry of this obsc u re com m u nity given by Perrin ( H isto i re de la Va llée cl d a Pr ie u ré de Cha m on i x d a 10i eme a u l 5ieme siecl e ) ,

D u Mon t Bla nc a n d W m Cha rer ( ) , hy per ( l mo n i r a n d i Io n t Bla ne ) . Fo r o u r p u rpose he re it is onl y a pprop ri a te to begin w ith the acco u nts of the fi rst st ra nge rs an d a r w a r who visited , in so t of y discove ed , T r E m C am . h onix hese we e two nglish en ,

a u m a n a m W a m W a m one yo ng n ed illi yndh , who ha d spent som e ti me in Geneva to fi n ish

h is u a a n d a D r . Po co cke h a d ed c tion , , who “ r come to Geneva in 1 740 . Afte extensive ” “ .

ra a ay . t vels in the e st , s s Mr I h a d long h ad a grea t desi re to m a ke this u r C am bu t fi u exc sion (to h onix) . the dif c lty m of getting com pa ny m ade e defe r it . I Po co ck u r o n mentioned to D r . e this c i sity a d

r a n d w as fa r r my desi e to see it , he , who f om 2 18 CHAMONIX AND ITS ENVIRONS

a fearing hardships , expressing like inclination , we immedi ately agreed to go there . As we were assur ed on all h ands th a t we shou ld scarcely find an y of the necessar ies of life in u s those parts , we took with sumpter horses , an d a was loaded with provisions tent , which m u se u s u r descri of so e to , tho gh the ter ible p tion people h ad given u s of the country was ” mu ch exaggerated . It is exceedingly interesting to read the accou nt of the adventu res of these pioneer u to rists , as well as their reflections in the u m presence of the s bli e scenery , now known all bu t a a u to the world , then pr ctic lly nknown , “ a u till they c me , who were the first to b rst ” into th a t silent se a . T o u t u 1 9 1741 a hey set J ne , , party of eight ll m ’ r a a u s . with five se v nts , of well ar d The as far as first day they went Bonneville , the next to Servoz an d the third they reached m T a u r Cha onix . heir gre test c iosity was to a r a t a bu t r visit the gl cie close h nd , they we e u a a a diss ded by the peas nts , who s id the thing u an d was very diffic lt , nobody ever went there bu t those whose b u siness it w as to search fo r crystals an d shoot bou qu etins and cha

. all ra mois In spite of discou gements , how 2 19 CHAMO NIX AND ITS ENV I RO NS

o u t a as ever , they set for wh t is now known “ Me r a a n d a m the de Gl ce , fter cli bing with

a a fo r u r u r a n d r u a r gre t l bor fo ho s th ee q rte s ,

m u a r m n we got to the top of the o nt in , f o whe ce we h ad the ple as u re of beholding o bjec ts o f W e r an extraordin a ry na t u re . we e on the

m u a a s as u top of a o nt in which , well I co ld u was a t a as as j dge , le st twice high Mont ’ a r m ha d a u S leve , f o whence we f ll view of the o a a m r m gl aciers . I own to y u th t I ext e ely at a loss how to give a right ide a of it ; as I know no one thing which I h ave eve r see n th a t m T he d escri h as the le a st rese bl a nce to it . p tion which t ravellers give of the seas of Green m l a nd seem s to com e nea rest to it . Yo u u st i m agine yo u r l ake pu t in agit a tion by a st rong an d r a ll a t r a wind , f ozen once ; pe h ps even th a t wo u ld not p rod u ce the s a m e a ppe a ra nce . No t content with this gene ra l view they ( l e

u r a a r u a s a ll scended to the s f ce of the gl cie , j st - T a tou rists do to d ay. hey he rd noises like a u r a n d r r u cl ps of th nde , we e told by thei g ides th a t it w as c a u sed by the openi n g o f fresh

r a a n d as a ll u tr ra n c ev sses , in co n ies of igno ce , people a re ext rem ely su pe rstitio u s they told u s m a ra r ny st nge sto ies of witches . etc . , who c ame to pl ay thei r p ranks u po n the gl aciers 2 20

CHAMONIII AND ITS ENVIRONS m and dance to the sou nd of instru ents . It r a is inte esting , in view of the extreme e se with which the trip to the Mer de Gl ace is made -d a u to y, to read of the effect prod ced by this r u a fi st jo rney upon the n tives of the village , when the adventu r ou s tou rists retu rned abou t “ u r a a all s nset , to the g e t stonishment of the an d o u r people of the place , even of guides , who owned to u s they thou ght we shou ld r not h ave gone th ou gh with o ur u ndertaking . N a a a e rly forty years l ter c me Goethe , one of the first men of letters who h a ve since com e in su ch n u mbers to Ch a monix an d h ave B e e e celebrated its beau ty . In his ri f aus d r Schwei z u a N m 3 an d , nder the d te of ove ber o u t the following days , he tells how he set a as wa C u for Genev , p sed by y of l ses and Sallanches to Ch amonix ; tells the im pression “ m ade upon him by Mont Bl anc an d the u a a a mo nt ins which slope w y from it , the ” masses of ice th a t fill the vast ravines an d “ W erustet how , Mit Speise und ein g , he “ climbed the Mo n tan vert wo u n s der Anblick des Eismeeres fiberraschen sollte . But the n ame above all others closely con n ected with Ch amonix is th a t of Horace au u P Benedict de S ss re , born in Geneva , ebru 22 1 CHAMO NIX AND ITS ENVIRO NS

0 22 9 ar I7 174 a u a 179 . y , , died J n ry , At the early age of twenty- two he beca m e p ro fesso r

a t r o f a . In o a the Unive sity Genev th se d ys , when one m a n cove red a ll fields of n a t u ra l

r au u w as u a r d histo y , S ss re eq lly inte este in a a n d a n d a ll physics , bot ny , geology , spent his spa re tim e in m a king t rips th ro u gh Sw itz er l a nd fo r the pu rpose o f o bse rv a tio n an d col

a o leeting specim ens . Being especi lly fond f ra a a ra a h a m mine logy , he lw ys t velled with m r r o u r e in his h and . He c ossed the Alps f m a n d a m a n o f teen ti es , tte pted the sce t l Io n t Bl a n e m o u as a see ten ti es , th gh . we sh ll a u r a u m m l ter , he s cceeded in e ching the s it

o n l o n u 2 1 1 788 . r r d r a y . J ly , He ende e g e t

r o r a se vice to science . not only by his bse v tion , bu t by perfecting a n d inven ting scientific

o o instru m ents . T S a u ss u re Ch a m onix wes more th a n to an y othe r m a n . By his ascent

a b y u m ro u s s of Mont Bl nc , his n e s vi it to the a a n d a y by u a o v lley , especi ll his p blic ti ns he a tt racted the a ttention o f Eu ro pe to the ch a rm a n d inte rest of this fa m o u s Swiss reso rt . It is only j u st th a t the comm u nit y has a u m a m u m a n erected mon ent to this f o s . where he is represented as sta nding o n a c a u r a u m m ro k , w ith his g ze t ned tow rd the s it 0 0 0 Q

CHAMO NIX AND I'IS ENVI RO NS

’ ” ’ both Shelley s atheist a n d his s u ccessor s “ fool . And yet Shelley has reproduced in his own ethereal way the mysteriou s power of the snow-ca pped 1\Io n t Blan e in the foll owing lines :

So me say tha t gleams o f a rem o ter wo rld

the o u in ee a dea um er Visit s l sl p. th t th is sl b

An d a a e the u o u o u n um er th t its sh p s b sy th ghts t b ,

w 1 o o k o n O f th o se ho wake a n d li ve . l high ; Has so me u n kn o wn o m n i po ten ce u n fu rled The ve il o f life an d dea th ? o r do I li e

In d rea m a n d does the m i e r wo r d o f l ee . ight l s p Sprea d fa r a ro u nd a n d i n a ccess ibly

Its r e ? Fo r th e er r ai s ci cl s v y spi it f l . D riven like a ho me l ess cl o ud fro m stee p to steep Th a t van ish es a lo n g the vi ew less gnles !

Fa r fa r a o e e r i n th e nfin e sk . b v . pi c g i it y,

Mo n B a n a ea r il n o w a nd se rene t l c pp s . st l , s y. . Its su bj ect mo u n ta i n s th ei r u n ea rthly fo rms

e a ro u nd ice a nd ro k roa d a e e een Pil it. . c : b v l s b tw

f ro e n oo d u n a ho ma e dee s O f z fl . f t bl p .

B u e as th e o er a n n ea ve n a read l v h gi g h . th t sp

And wi nd a l o ng the accum ula ted stee ps .

d e e r eo ed b the to rm alo ne A s t p pl y s s . ' Sa e e n the ea e ri n o me u n er o n v wh gl b gs s h t s b e, — And the wo lf tr acks her there ho w hideo u sly

Its a e a re ea ed a ro u nd ! ru de he re a nd i sh p s h p , h gh

G a t a rred a nd r e n . Is the ce ne h s l y . sc . iv this s Wh ere the o ld ea rthq ua ke-d em o n ta u ght he r yo u ng 2 2 4 CHAMONIX AND ITS ENVIRONS

Ru i n ? W ere th ese thei r toys ? O r did a sea Offire e n vel o pe o n ce this sil en t sn ow ? No ne ca n reply all seem s etern a l n o w The wildern ess ha s a myste rio u s to n gue

W i ea e a fu d o u o r a so m ld h ch t ch s w l bt , f ith i ,

So o emn so e ren e a man ma be s l , s , th t y Bu t fo r su ch fa ith with natu re reco n cil ed ;

o u a a o e rea mo u n a n to re eal Th h st v ic , g t t i , p La rge codes o f frau d an d woe ; n o t u n derstood

B all bu t c th e i e an d rea and oo d y , whi h w s , g t, g

n e r re o r make e o r dee ee . I t p t, f lt, ply f l

Mo n t Blan e yet glea ms o n high ; the po wer is there The still an d so lem n powe r o f man y sights

An d ma n o u n d an d m u of e a n d dea y s s , ch lif th .

In the a m da rkn e o f the moo nl e n c l ss ss ights ,

In th e o ne are o fda the no de e nd l gl y, s ws sc

U o n a mo un a n n o n e e o d em ere p th t t i ; b h l s th th ,

No r en the ake u rn in the n k n sun wh fl s b si i g , O r the sta r-beams d art th ro u gh them ; W i n ds co n tend

S en l ere an d ea th e no rea il t y th , h p s w with b th

Ra d an d ro n bu t en ! Its o me pi st g, sil tly h The vo icel ess lightn i n g in these so litu des

Kee n n o en and l ke a o r roo ds ps i c tly, i v p b

er n T n O v the s o w. he secret stre gth o f thi ngs

W o e rn o u an d to the nfin e dome hich g v th ght , i it ” Of ea en as a law n a ee ! h v is , i h bits th

In simil ar u plifting langu age Wordsworth tells how he first from a bare ridge beheld a u the summit of Mont Bl ne nveiled , and then , 225 CII AMONIX AND ITS ENVI RO NS

’ ’ both Shelley s a theist an d his s u ccesso r s “ fool . And yet Shelley has reprod u ced in his own ethereal way the m ysteriou s power of the snow-ca pped l\Io n t Bl ane in the following lines :

So me say tha t gl ea ms o f a remo ter wo rld

the o u in ee a dea um er Visit s l sl p. th t th is sl b

d a a e the u o u s o u n u m e r An th t its sh p s b sy th ght t b .

w e I oo k o n Of tho se ho wake a n d li v . l high ; IIas so m e u n kno wn o m n i po ten ce u n fu rled ? The ve il o f life an d dea th o r d o I lie

In d rea m a n d do e the m e r o r d o f s ee . s ighti w l l p Sprea d fa r a ro u nd a nd i n access ibly ? Its r l e Fo r the e r r a s ci c s v y spi it f il , D rive n like a ho m e le ss cl o ud fro m stee p to stee p Th at va n ishe s a lo n g the vi ewle ss ga les !

Fa r fa r a o e e r n the nfin e sk . b v . pi ci g i it y.

Mo n B a n a e a r l no a nd e re ne t l c pp s . stil . s wy. s . Its su bject mo u n ta i n s th e i r u n ea rthly fo rms

e a ro u nd ice a n d ro k ro ad a e e een Pil it . . c ; b v l s b tw

O f ro e n oo d u n a o ma e dee f z fl . f th bl ps.

B ue as the o e r a n n ea e n a read l v h gi g h v . th t sp

And wi nd a lo n g the accum ul a ted stee ps .

A de e r eo ed b the s o rm a o n e s t p pl y t s l . ' Sa e e n the ea e r n o me u n e r o ne v wh gl b i gs s h t s b , — And the wo lf tr acks her th ere ho w hid eo u sly

Its a e a re ea ed a ro u n d ! ru d e a re a nd sh p s h p . b high

he n G as a rred a n d r e n . t e e h tly. sc . iv Is this sc “h e re the o ld ea rthq u a ke-d emo n ta u ght he r yo u ng

CHAMO NIX AND ITS ENVIRO NS

The wo nd ro u s va le

OfC am o u n re ed fa r e o an d o o n h y st tch b l w. s

W its d u m a a ra s a n d re am o f i e ith b c t ct st s c .

A mo i o n e a rra o f m a e t l ss y ighty w v s,

Five rive rs bro ad a nd vast .

An d he aga in speaks of Ch amoni x

th a t shi elds W ith ro cks a n d glo o my woo ds he r fe rtile fiel ds Five strea ms o f ice am id he r co ts desce nd An d with wild fl o we rs a nd bloo mi n g o rch ards blend A sce n e mo re fa i r tha n wha t th e G recia n fe igns Of pu rple lights a nd e ve r-vern a l pla i n s ; He re all the sea so n s re ve l ha n d in ha n d

’ Mid l awn s a nd sh ades by bree zy rivul e ts fa nn ed ' Th ey spo rt be n e a th th a t mo u n ta i n s matchl es s height That ho ld no co mme rce wi th the su mmer n ight

F m a e to a e h ro u o u o ne o un d ro g g . t gh t his l ly b s

The cra s h o f ru i n fitful ly rcso u nds ; Appalli ng h a vo c ! bu t se re n e his bro w W h e n d aylight li n gers o n pe rpetu al sn o w "

Ne er the ar a o e a n d all a k el o w . ith st s b v . is bl c b

Bu t no poe t h as more fittingly expressed the solemn an d religio u s feelings th a t a re a rou sed by this scene th an Coleridge in his

a m u H m n be ore Su n r ise i n the Val e o f o s y f , f Cha mo u n y,

o u mo a w u o rm Th . st f l f . e ro m o r th e n se a o f nes Ris st f f th y sil t pi , 996 CHAMONIX AND ITS ENVIRONS

Ho w sil en tly! Aro u nd th ee an d a bo ve

D ee the air and dark u a n a la k p is , s bst ti l , b c ,

o n : m nk u ie r s An e b ma ss e thi s th o p ce t it.

a ed e ! Bu t en oo k a a n As with w g wh I l g i , ne own a m o me th r a r n e It is thi c l h . y c yst l sh i , Thy h abita ti o n fro m e terni ty!

O dre ad a n d en mo u n ! I a ed u o n ee sil t t g z p th ,

Till o u l re e n to the o d en e th . stil p s t b ily s s , D idst va n ish fro m my th o ught ; e n tr an ced in prayer ’ i n I wo rsh pp d the I visible alo ne .

’ Ye ice -falls ! ye tha t fro m the mo u n ta i n s bro w Adown e no rmo u s ravi n es sl o pe ama i n o rren me n k a ea rd a m o e T ts , thi s, th t h ighty v ic , And sto pped at o n ce amid the i r maddest pl u n ge ! Mo tio nl es s to rren ts ! silen t ca ta racts ! Who made you glo ri o u s as the gates o fhea ven

Benea th e kee n u moo n ! W ho ad e the su n th , f ll b Clo th e yo u wi th ra i n bo ws ? W ho with livi ng fl o wers

f o e e u e read ar a n d a t o ur ee ? O l v li st bl , sp g l s y f t

! let the rren k o u o f n G od to t li e a sh t atio n s .

n er ! an d let the ice - a n e o G o d ! A sw pl i s ch ,

Go d ! n e m ea do - rea m i ad o me o ! si g. y w st s, w th gl s v ice

Ye n e- ro e ou r o and o u ke o u n d ! pi g v s , with y s ft s lli s s

An d e too a e a o e o n e o f n o th y, , h v v ic , y pil s s w, And in thei r perilo u s fall shall th u nder G od ! ’ Y n e livi g fl owers tha t ski rt th etern a l fro st .

- Ye ea e a m a e o f the mo u n a n o rm . gl s , pl y t s t i st

Ye tni n th e d rea d r fthe o u d ! ligh gs . ar ows o cl s Ye sign s a n d wo n de rs o f th e el emen t !

U er o r G od an d fill the i l ra e ! tt f th , h l s with p is

o u too oar mo u n i th sk - o n n ea k Th , . h t . w th y y p i ti gp s , 2 27 CIIAMO NIX AND ITS ENV I RO NS

ft ro m o e ee the a a a n e u n ea rd O f wh s f t v l ch . h .

o o d o n a rd e r n ro u the u re sa t n c Sh ts w w . glitt i g th gh p

e de o f o u d a e th rea t I n to th pths cl . th t v il y b s .

o u to o a a n u e n d o u mo u n a n ! h ou Th , . g i , st p s t i t . ' a as I ra e m ea d a e ho d lo w Th t. is y h , whil w

In ado ra o n u a rd ro m th ba se ti . pw f y

e n wi d im e e u u ed ear Slow tra v lli g. th y s . s ff s with t s.

So emnl see mest ke a a o r o ud l y . li v p y cl .

r e e o re me rise o h e e r r se To is b f . . v i .

e ke a o u d o f n e n e r om the mi rth ! Ris li cl i c s . f

o u k n r ro n ed a mo n the hills Th i gly spi it . th g . Th o u d read a mbassado r fro m ea rth to h ea ve n

G rea e ra r ! e o u the e n sk t hi chy t ll th sil t y.

nd e the a r a nd e o u r n su n A t ll st s . t ll y isi g .

E r her o u a nd o e ra e G o d . a th . with th s v ic s . p is s

T u r u a u C a m here is one c io s thing bo t h onix . u a as ar m u a sit ted it is in the he t of the o nt ins . an d th a t is its popu l a rity with a ll so rts a n d

a n conditions of m e n . In the f sh io a ble hotels the rich a n d gay of a ll n a tions a ppe a r a t d in n e r r r s a re fi in evening d ess . the st eet lled w ith

an d m r m u a r a ll men wo en , f o the Bo lev ds of the world metropolises ; an d in r ecent yea rs a

a ff r m ( c sino a o ds those who wish the . the li h h versions of the opera a n d d ra m a . T e u m

u r u r u o ble bo geois . the nive sity st dent . the scho l

r m r a all r a r teache s of A e ic , c owd e ch othe in a o r as a the n arrow street of the vill ge . p s e ch 928

( ‘ IIAMO NIX AND ITS ENVIRONS f u ll of m u sic ; from the a dj a cent woods iss u ed a u u r g sh of song , while the so nd of the A ve formed a s u ita ble bass to the sh rille r mel o dy

T h u a fo r a m of the bi rds . e mo nt in rose ti e a n d ra a a r a u cold g nd , with no pp ent st in pon u u a m ru his snows . S ddenly the s nbe s st ck his crown an d conve rted i t into a boss of

m m m a gold . For so e ti e i t re ined the only u m m m m u gilded s it in view , holding co nion with the d awn while a ll the othe rs w a ited in

. T r silence hese , in the o der of their heights , am a ar a as u a m c e fterw ds , rel xing , the s nbe s ru a u n a u a n d st ck e ch in s ccession , i to bl sh ” a sm ile . And yet while grea t crowds of to u rists ar a a n d am a r w a u sw m the v lley , cl ber p t y p a m u a a the sides of the gi nt o nt in , only few

h r m o ventu re to the s u m m it . T e two g ea t tives th a t lead m en to clim b the h igh m o u nta in are science an d the love of advent u re ; in the a a u r r r c se of the e rliest conq e o s , these two we e w a s a a joined togethe r . This especi lly the c se r a D e a u u with the g e t Swiss scientist , S ss re , 1 76 1 h ad m a a m who , in , de known ong the parishes of the v alley of Ch a m onix th a t he wou ld give a conside ra ble rewa rd to a ny one who wou ld find a p racticable ro u te to the 930 CHAMONIX AND ITS ENVIRONS summit of Mont Bl anc ; an d he fu rther offered to pay by the d ay those who shou ld m ake fru itless attempts to discover such a rou te . D u r a r ring the twenty yea s th t followed , mo e or less a ttem pts were made ; bu t it was not 1 786 a a u u a u a m a till th t yo ng g ide , J cq es B l t , who h ad been born a year after D e S au ssu re a r u m de his offe , s cceeded in climbing the Th mou ntain an d gaining the reward . e a au u u next ye r S ss re , himself, ndertook the The as ascent . story told by him in his es da ns les Al s u r Voyag p is f ll of inte est . W e see the intrepid scientist arriving at Ch a m o n ix o r r u re as a an d a , P ie , he c lls it , ret ined there near ly fou r weeks by bad weather ; an d a t l ast star ting o u t with one servant an d eight u a a u een g ides , c rrying his physic l instr ments W an d all other b aggage . e follow him the first day as he m akes his way through the r a u r pine fo ests , over steep p st ages , to the rr u -d a a chalet de Pie e Point e , where to y is refu ge . Then pl u nging into a desolate and ar r a a solit y egion , by mor ine and gig ntic ’ d el Echelle d an rocks over the Pierre , the gero u s cou loi r of the aval anche of the Aiguille d a a Midi , over v st fields of snow , with cre vasses an d of frightful depth , imposing séracs . Q3] CHAMO N IX AND ITS ENVIRONS

Th a a u r en he re ched the Gr nd M lets , whe e

a a a u m r o n now c b ne is fo nd , et es high m a r r . isol ted ocks , sheltered f o the winds Then over the gl acie r of T a cco n ay a n d the r a au R c R u th ee pl te s to the o hes o ges , the s u an d a u m f Petit M lets fin lly the s m it i tsel , where he arrived u tterly worn o u t by fa tigu e

r su ffi and sickness . As soon as he recove ed r u r C am cient st ength , he t ned his eyes to h o “ ” “ a m nix , where I knew , he s ys , y wife an d her two sisters were following th ro u gh all a n a the telescope , my steps with nxiety

a r a ru a n d too gre t , pe h ps , yet none the less c el , I expe rienced a sentiment very s weet a n d consoling when I sa w floa ting the s ta nd ard h ad m a a t m o they pro ised to w ve when , the saw arr a t i ment they me ived the top , the r w fears wo u ld be at leas t s u spended . I as able then to enjoy witho u t regret the g ra nd spectacle which I h ad before my eyes . A light va por s u spended in the lower regio n s of the air bid from me the sight of the lowest

a u as a n o f and most dist nt objects . s ch the pl i s France an d Lom bardy : bu t I did not regr et u a h ad u a n d this loss m ch ; wh t I j st seen , a saw r a a r wh t I with the g e test cle ness . is the whole ensem ble of the lofty s u m m it of which

CHAMONIX AND ITS ENVIRONS

I h ad so long desired to know the organisa u tion . I co ld not believe my eyes : it seemed to me th a t it was a dr eam when I saw below a u m m re my feet those m jestic s its , those ’ u u Ie l Ar en tiere le do btable aig illes , Midi , g , a a h ad Gé nt , whose b ses even been for me so ” ffi r di cu lt and dange ou s of access . T a a an d hings h ve ch nged since then , the ascent of Mont Bl anc is no longer a necessarily u au u r d angerou s jo rney . S ss e had eighteen u r : g ides , now only th ee are needed he took u can an d fo r days , now it be done in two , The u some have done it in one day . n mber who climb the mou ntain every su mmer is com arativel ar a p y l ge , not only men h ve done it ,

bu t . O n e m an D r . a even women , J nssen ,

w as a a . carried up the entire dist nce , in sled

The name of D r . J anssen is intim a tely connected with Mont Blanc on account of the observa tory which he su cceeded in bu ild u m an d a ing on the s mit , which still exists , prom inent object on the mou nta in as seen u from the valley thro gh the telescope . M . 1 887 had o u t u Vallot , who in camped nder a canvas tent on the summit for three d ays and s u i a a T night (th s go ng he d of yndall , who in 1859 passed one night there) succeeded in 933 C IIAMO NIX AND ITS ENVIRO NS bu ilding an obse rva to ry between the D ome d u Gouter a n d the Bosses d u D rom ad a i re a t the w 89 height of feet . This as in 1 0 . The difficu lties of t ra nspo rting the m a te ri a l to s u ch a w as as m a m a r height , y well be i gined , eno

u bu t u r r r s a n d a mo s , s ccess c owned thei effo t bu ilding sixteen by twelve feet a n d ten feet high w as e rected on solid rock . D r r u . a Inspi ed by this s ccess , J nssen . director of the obse rva to ry a t Me n don nea r ar a u n a m P is , conceived the pl n of b ildi g si i m h l ar observa tory on the very s u m it . T e enterprise w as u nde r the gene ra l d i recti o n of

. E r a m w ho a as M iffel , of towe f e , eng ged

- a r NI . m a n o s loc l di ector I feld , well k w n S w i s

u r r as su rveyor . In the co se of his wo k he cen d ed the mo u nt a in m o re th a n o n e h u nd red

A r a r n o a times . fter d iving g lle ies in the s w u w as u n m o n mber of times , it fo d i p ssible

a n d u n w as to reach solid rock , the b ildi g

n constructed on the snow itsel f. I spite of a a r a m a m ny fe rs , however , the obse v tory re ins to this day . Hitherto we h ave seen only one side of Mont a au an d su blim itv d Bl nc , its be ty . the dee s u r a n d n of heroic advent e , the scie tific knowl

a o n . Bu t a a r r a edge , chieved its top d ke str nd 93 4

CIIAMO NIX AND ITS ENV IRONS

o rm . W e a o o u r wa an d are in snow st h ve l st y , a ho le scooped o u t of the sn ow a t a height o ffifteen

h u a . a v n o o f t o s nd feet I h e hope desce n di ng. r a thi b o ma be u an d r Pe h ps s o k y fo nd fo w ard ed . W e ha ve no food ; my fee t are already fro zen an d I am exhausted ; I ha ve on ly stren gth to wri te a

r . di e the a s us Chr s wi t few wo ds I in f i th of Je i t. h a ffection a te thoughts of my fam il y; my remem ” bran ces l to al .

Five of the bod ies were found fro zen com l Th ple te y. e other six have not been dis covered . ‘Ve a s must pass over the other ccident . among them th a t of the well - known cl assica l

R. L . N a C scholar , ettleship , of B lliol ollege , O f a r x ord , and take sp ce he e for only the u to ching story , (or is it legend given in the accou nt of Ch amonix in the Encyclo ped ic how 1 842 La r usse . r are o The e we told in . u a a yo ng tourist , the l st scion of one of the a Swed en clim bin a noble f milies of , g Mont Bl nc . saw a a e r c a be a u u in the cr cks of ste p o k , tif l “ " a d o f a n d little flower , c lle the violet the Alps . prepared to cli m b the rock in o rde r to pl u ck it . m a r u a bu t w His co p nions t ied to diss de him . i th “ a u r m the words , It is so veni I w ish to send y Bu a a . t at mother , he st rted tow rd it the 93 6 CHAMONIX AND ITS ENV IRONS

u n an d moment of pl cki g it , he slipped fell Wh a . into crevasse , fifty feet deep en the u a u g ides , fter infinite tro ble , reached the r u bottom of the p ecipice , they fo nd his body completely frozen . His mother was sent for ’ a and , deeply moved at the story of his de th , resolved to cli mb the mou ntain and pl u ck u u the flower herself , and th s f lfill the last N u u wish of her son . othing co ld t rn her from “ a w as this resolve . I sh ll have it , since it des h a u tined for me . T e most f mo s guides in C a u r u h monix were engaged , and the co ageo s mother finally su cceeded in plu cking the flower bu t m a a herself ; im edi tely afterw rd she fainted , bu t still holding tightly in her h a nd the fa tefu l

violet of the Alps . W e have given above a description of sun rise on Mont Bl anc in the poetry of Coleridge and the prose of Tyn d all ; it m ay not be in

r a a su n app opri te to give here its pend nt , the as u u a set , seen from the s mmit of the mo nt in , abr idged from the beautifu l words of Sir Leslie Stephen : “ Car u l al u a n ou r ti m a an ef l y c c l ti g e, we dv ced ‘ ’ ’ along the D romedary s Hu mp an d stepped u po n the cu lminating ridge of the mou ntai n abou t an W e had tim l o ur hour before su nset . e to col ect 237 CIIAMO NIX AND ITS ENVIRO NS

a a o u r o r o fo r a o n an d to selves , to w ke p we s bse v ti . r ar fo r ran d c a fo r r a p ep e the g spe t cle , which p ep ra tion s were al ready bei ng m ade . There had bee n rehearsals eno u gh in al l co n scien ce to secu re a Fo r m o n o f a s the perfect perfo rm ance . illi s ge l amps had been lighted a n d the t ran sparen cies had been sho w n with n o hu ma n eye to o bserve o r

an to a au . Tw v o n h d ppl d ice , I belie e ly twice r an au i had a its ac in his befo e , d ence t ken pl e t lofty gallery . “ W e n o t o l k bu t a at o ur n y new , felt th t feet m a Th w as lyin g a vas t slice of the p of Eu ro pe . e ff was to a ra th e a ar n e ect ex gge te pp e t height . till the view had abo u t it so methi ng po rten tou s an d u n n a t ural : it seemed to be such a view as co u ld be gran ted not even to mo u n tai n ee rs o f ea rthl v m u bu t ra r m i ro m Ara bia n o ld , the to so e gen e f the Ni hts n a o v a o r n t the g , flyi g high b e w ld ti ted wi h m agical co lou ri n g o f o ld rom an ce . “ T u i ra n t o u u o n so m n u h s dist nctly d w , h gh p i te a scal e v r rock an d o r s r d its tru , e e y sl pe p e e ve e a u an d im r o n o f u n d o u s v l e , the p essi st pe height became almost oppressive as it w as fo rced u pon ma a a a o o r o f m o u n a n the i gin tion th t wh le w ld t i s . a t m a mi m a in ts l lay o u e e ch of he ghty ss i e f. c ch d far n a o u r r a n a r ss the o be e th feet . e chi g c o wh le d n o w i s am r o f v as a n o ra m a . An di ete the t p , wh l t c in r n n in t a tra n n sa t o n o cu pied d i ki g h t s ge se i . an d allowing o u r min ds to reco ver thei r eq ui lib 938

CHAMO NIX AND ITS ENVIRO NS whi lst we shou ld lo n g have ceased to take an y r rm n in terest in the pe fo an ce . A d s uddenl y began

a m r ar n n m n n . ast o n w t o e st tli g phe o e o A v c e , i h its a t n a a r m u s m d to pex poin i g w y f o , see e he su ddenly cu t o u t fro m the world be n ea th ; night w as within its bo rders an d the twili ght sti ll all r u u m s r u n r ll o nd ; the bl e ist we e q e ched whe e it fe . an d fo r the insta nt we cou ld sc arcely tell wha t m was the origin of this st ran ge a ppea rance . So e u nexp ected chan ge seemed to ha ve taken pl ace in the pro gram ; as th o ugh a grea t fo ld in the ur a n had ud l i wa an d ro d o n c t i s den y g ven y, d ppe ’

ar r . Of o u r a m m n to p t of the scene y c se , o e t s reflection explained the mea n i ng o f thi s un cann y n ru r was the a a o o f o n B an i t de ; it gi nt sh d w M t l c . testifyi n g to his su prem acy o ver all mea n er ffit o sa h w emi n en ces . It is di t y o sharply m ar was o u i n an d ho w a tl n was ked the tl e , st r i g the con tras t between this pyramid o f d arkn es s an d the fain tly li ghted sp aces beyo nd its influ en ce ; a huge i nky blo t seemed to ha ve suddenl y fal len u pon the lan dscape . As we gaze d we co u ld see it m a o d u r b r an d its ove . It sw ll we p idge y idge . sharp point crept stea dil y fro m o n e lan dm a rk to ' “e r another down th e bro ad Valley o fA o sta . we e a i in a o n the o n o f the n o mo o f a st nd ng, f ct . p i t g n an i u n i a th e ac o f hi h w as o rm d b gig t c s d l . f e w c f e y thou san ds of sq u are miles o fmo u n ta i n an d v al ley. ar was the u n ha if fi ur s ha d b So cle o tli e t t , g e een 240 CHAMONIX AND ITS ENVIRONS

ra u a r an d u a sc wled pon gl cie s ridges , we co ld h ve m a o i d r al told the ti e to sec nd ; ndee , we we e h f incl ined to look fo r o u r o wn shadows at a distan ce so grea t tha t who le vi ll ages woul d be represe nted i a n by a scarcely di stin gu sh ble speck of colou ri g. The u a i r m r ran an d h ge sh dow , look ng eve o e st ge m a al tru the i an a N a an d gic , s ck d st t Becc di on , then cli mbed in to th e dark region where the broader shadow of the world was risin g in to the B m n u ar ers ec eas tern sky. y so e si g l effect of p p t ra ar n m n r n ive , ys of d k ess see ed to be co ve gi g from above ou r heads to a point imm edi ately n Fo r t m above the apex of the shadowy co e . a i e it see m ed tha t there was a kind of anti -sun in the a u ri o u t i bu t a as e st , po ng not l ght , deep sh dow it

r . The a r a the r an d ose pex soon e ched ho izon , then to o u r su rprise began climbin g the distant

sk . W u r an d was an y o ld it neve stop, Mont Bl c capable of overshadowin g not on ly th e earth bu t sk ? Fo r a m n u o r a in a the y i te two I f ncied , w l r wa t a u n ar u be i de ed y, h t the e thly object wo ld fai rly rise from the grou nd an d climb u pwards to B r l n the zeni th . u t apidly the ights we t o u t u pon the grea t army of mou n t ain s ; the sn ow all arou n d took the livid hu e whi ch immedia tely succeeds an l su an d a m at a a o f A pine nset , l ost blow the sh dow Mon t Blan c was swallo wed u p in the general h The a had s ade of night . displ y ceased suddenly at u mi n a in an d was i its c l t g point , it h ghly ex 241 C IIAMONIX AND ITS ENVIRO NS

f r r r W a pedi e n t o the specta to s to etire . e h d n o ' ti me to lose if we w o uld ge t o fl the su mmi t befo re the grip o f the frost sho ul d ha rden the sn o ws in to a n ice- cru st ; an d in a mi n u te we were ru n ni ng an d slidi n g downw ar ds at o u r bes t pa ce to w ards ” the famili ar Co rrido r.

There are a n u mbe r of w ays o f rea ching C a r m a R h monix , f o the V lley of the hone by w a l l arti n a n d Téte No r y of g y the i e , or r a a a n d a a o r r a Ve n y z S lv n , f om Genev by \ w ay of Sall a nches o r Sixt . . Iost of thes e u r ca n a ra ro a b u t jo neys now be t ken by il d , when I fi rst visited Ch a m onix the t rip fro m eithe r side h a d to be done on fo ot o r by dili a m a o u r a u m gence . I h ve de this j ney n ber of m r m a r y r a a a n d a ti es , f o M tign , Ve n y z , Genev , b u t the ple as a ntest m ode of t ravel I h a ve fo u nd to be by bicycle . Ch a m on ix is som e

m a a r m a a n d m fifty iles w y f o Genev . so e two

I h a r tho u s and feet higher in a ltit u de . t is d b u t u r o n n u a a going , the ret n is one c ti l co sting

a r a a n d for ne ly the whole dist nce , one feels som ething of the pleas u re the o ld Ge rm a n

ar ar a u a a b b i ns m st h ve felt . when , inv ding a a re a a d o It ly , they s id to h ve slid wn the snowy slopes of the Alps o n thei r shields . b u t perh a ps the pleas a ntest of a ll my visits

C HAMO NIX AND ITS ENVI RO NS

u a ra r a Here we took the new mo nt in il o d ,

m a m o r ro d only co pleted short ti e bef e , c sse the Trient n e a r the fa m o u s Go rge of the s a m e am m as r u l u n n e , cli bed the hills , p sed th o gh

n cls a n d a r a a o f a a . , fin lly e ched the st tion S lv n T r a - o e a t hen we c ept long the steep hill sl p . tim es perpendic u l a rly a bove the go rges of Trient to Fin -H au t ; then descended to the a r r C a r T st tion on the Swiss f ontie , hatel d rient , whe re the Tete Noire roa d dive rges to the left . Then the c ars clim bed aga in to the w a te r-shed

R r r a between the hone and the A ve , whe e m agnificent view of the M o nt Bl a nc ra nge is reve a led ; an d so on to A rgentiere with i ts ' a a Les T a n d Le s a gl cier , p st ines Pr z d en

H au t to Ch am onix itself . ra a a m c mf r In t velling bro d , the si ple o o ts a d m rta of life , cle nliness , goo food , co fo ble beds a n d pleasa nt spoken peo ple a re of grea t m a an d are a m as i port nce , often ong the ple W e r i r a n t memories of after tim es . we e o tn n ate in finding a ll thes e a t the Hotel de Pa ris .

n Th e fi rst evening w as es peci ally pleas a t . After dinner we went o u t on the ba lcony back r a a r at of the hotel , ove looking little g den , the end of which flowed the A rve w ith its

u a . w as a t d a r shing w ters It the close of y, 2 44 CHAMONIX AND ITS ENVIRONS

w as r th e a the air cool and f esh , all v lley was s u nk in sh adow ; on the pr ecipitou s moun was tains opposite us , one bright light shining indica ting the location of the Chal et of the Bu Pl an des Aigu ill es . t the sunlight still m a an d gilded the snowy sum it of Mont Bl nc , fo r a long tim e we watched the light grad u ally ' a a a u An was all . d f de w y , ntil it gone then ar i the moon ose , turn ng to silver the snow th a t a short time before had been fl u shed with rose . The next week quickly p assed in variou s r t ips to the points of interest , of which there a a are many t Ch monix . Th e am u all an d most f o s of these trips , u a if the one which every visitor m st m ke , he t a Mo n tan ver t does nothing else , is h t to the , a a a height on the e st side of the v lley , some u a C a three tho sand feet bove h monix , whence one h as a striking view of the great gl a cier w a T kno n as the Mer de Gl ce . his most famou s of all Swiss gl aciers has its rise among i a the highest bas ns of the Mont Blanc ch in , forms itself in three branches and flows into the valley in an enormou s ice-cat aract fou r and a h a lf miles long an d from one-half to an a u a one d q arter miles bro d . From Mon 24-5 CHAMONIX AND ITS ENVIRONS tan ve rt the Bi e r de Gl ace can be t rave rsed u a o r u u a n d witho t d nger m ch diffic lty , the impressions m ade u pon u s b y th a t wilde rness ra r a o f r of icy c gs , of deep c ev sses , little t ick ling st re a ms o f w a te r fo rmed by the melting

a a y o r . C ro ice , is one th t is not e sil f gotten ss ing to the othe r side w e ascend over the r r a ra m ra to to déb is of the ight l te l o ine the p. au a Pa s a r then by the M v is . the only p t

rau an a r f gh t with y possible d nge , to the C a au a r u h pe , p oj ecting rock . which tho gh lower th a n the Mo n ta n ve rt gives a fine view

a C a a n d o r a r of the v lley of h monix . the l we p t

Me r a as a r of the de Gl ce , known the Gl cie

o des Bois . There is a lways su ch a crowd f ’ a a r u r d a m a people on cle s mme s y. king this

r a a a u . t ip , th t d nger seems to be thing nknow n Last s u m m er as we cl a m be red down th e hfIa u v a is Pas a m a n a a e m d be , he d se e to r m m r a r a n d ext e ely i p essed with its d nge , a ttracted the a m u sed a ttention of the rest by the pa infu l w ay in which he cl u ng to the m a a iron rods . i bedded in the rock to f cilit te r the descent . And yet in this ve y spot only a a a r r a Le Jl a ti-n a few d ys l te , we e d in how

u r m a m a a a yo ng F enchwo n de f lse step . fell .

w The hIa u v ais Pas an d as u a . picked p de d , 2 46

CHAMONIX AND ITS ENVIRO NS

r a u a howeve , is no more d ngero s th n the streets a u am a of Paris , for bo t the s e time we read of r a woman who , descending from the impé i le of an m u a a o nib s , lost her b l nce , fell , rolled over on the grou nd an d w as killed . A more cheerf u l scene than this occu rred at the ch a let j u st befor e we descended the

au Pa s. a an d M vais A gentlem n , his wife u r a a yo ng son orde ed bottle of lemon de , with n e a three gl asses . O of the gl sses cont ained a mor e th an the others . I w tched the actions a a of the boy , who extended his h nd to t ke the B ar a . u t u r l gest gl ss s ddenly he d ew it back , an d u a a a a to ched the sm llest gl ss ; then , g in , ra a a r his hand t velled b ck to the l rgest , linge ed a mom ent bu t finally took up r esol u tely the r u u m a n a sm allest . It was a p etty st dy in h n u an d a at t re , I rejoiced th t , this time least , m selfishness was overco e . Another excu rsion which everybody is su p ‘ Flé e re u r posed to make is to the g , a b tt ess a u R u of one of the pe ks of the Aig illes o ges , a ram feet high) , with a p no ic view of a C a an d a the whole v lley of h monix , especi lly of the Mer de Glace opposite , which can be followed to its sou rce su rro u nded on the left u a n d side by the Aig ille Verte , on the right 247 CHAMONIX AND ITS ENVIRO NS

u d u ra Cha rm o z a by the Aig illes G nd , de Bl i

e d u a a n d d u . o d ti re , Pl n Midi lo ke w ith pec u li a r inte rest a t the Aigu ille de la Ré u u fo r h ad h ad d r u p bliq e , we the goo fo t ne

d a r a as o u r u r the y befo e to h ve g ide . ove the Bi r ac Sim o n d w h o e de Gl e , Joseph , , in the u r o a a r b r words of the pict e p st l c d . lying efo e “ m e as r o u w ho has I w ite , is the nly g ide ” ever clim bed the Aigu ille de la Rép u bliq u e . ' I know nothing m o re a bo u t M . Si m ond s as a m u a r a a t m skill o nt inee th n this st e ent , b u t I ca n vo u ch fo r the fa ct th a t he has a

u r a a n d as o a delightf l pe son lity , we sh ok h nds

a r as if r a a in p ting , we felt we we e t king le ve of

a frie n d .

The t rip to the Flégere is u s u a lly eno u gh fo r one d ay; b u t m a ny yea rs ago when I w as you nger I m a de b o th this t rip a n d the one

Bréve n t fa r to the , feet in height .) to r Flé ere a n d r a d ro m the ight of the g . e che f the a r R u Pl a n raz l tte by the o te de p . which winds

o f a ra a long in fu ll view the Mont Bl nc nge . T he l ast pa rt of the as cent is by wh a t is ca lled C a u o r ro u e r the heminée , co l i . th gh ste p ocks .

W r a r m a n d to ith i on b s fixed in the . steps

o assist the t ra velle r in his ascent . F r m the

Bréve n t a a fi ba d a m gni cent View is . es peci lly 2 48

CHAMONIX AND ITS ENVIRONS

a r r r u ant w lks in eve y di ection . whe e , w itho t u a the u fatig e , b sking in s nshine , listening u m u r n o u r to the m r r of the A ve , resti g eyes on green meadows or lifting them to the

r a a a ll co n s ir eve l sting snow of Mont Bl nc , p ing to fill o u r bodies with healthfu l vigo u r a n d a our minds with pe ce , while

Bo o k a n d h o o a n d ea rn n e e m s sc ls l i g s .

' r- f k Like the fa o fl e ch o o a sic ly drea m .

I remem ber one delightfu l w alk I ha d along r m w the r oa d to Argentie e . At ti es there as h a ra a n d a u . T e little in , then little s nshine

r r u u a n d as a hills we e sh o ded in clo ds , I w lked a r m m at Jl a ti n I gl nced f o time to ti e the with , its ch ronicle of crimes an d frivolities of life in Paris ; an d a ll the while the ru shing w a ters m e Me r a of the Arve were beside , the de Gl ce pou red down its frozen flood ac ross the a a a u r m v lley , the ple s nt so nd of bells f o the

ra a w as a r a n d g zing c ttle on the hillside he d ,

m e u u it I w as behind , tho gh I co ld not see , co n cio u s of the m ighty dom e of Mont Bl a nc rising high among the clo u ds . \V No less plea s a nt a re the evenings . e ' m b \Ve h a ve h ad a h ard d a y s w o rk of cli ing . h ave ret u rned to o u r hotel travel -stained a n d 2 50 CHAMONIX AND ITS ENVIRONS

W o u r a . e a weary h ve taken b th , eaten i n a a a d n er with he rty ppetite , and sally forth h into the n arrow streets of the village . T e are r a shops b illi ntly lighted , and crowded with pu rch asers of sou veni rs ; on the pu blic u a u a u a sq res the g ides st nd in gro ps , w iting r r a u for some p ospective employe , contin al stream of men an d women of all nation alities u nder the su n are pr om en ading back and for th or m akin g their way to the Casino . O verhead a are air r the st rs shining , a keen , cool st ikes

o u r a m a an d . forehe d , and life see s f ir sweet Th m an d a u u en ho e to bed , so nd sleep , l lled by the mu sic al mu r m u r of the never- resting A u a rve , h rrying long to fling itself into the

Rhone j u st ou tside Geneva . The l ast eveni ng is the most beautifu l of W e a a a all . sit on the ver nd , g zing on the now famili ar scene . The memory of plea sant a r the d ys spent the e , the sense of health of an d a a u body pe ce of mind we h ve acq ired , as well as a tou ch of regret as we think how to u a all morrow we m st le ve these fair scenes , all these combine to pu t us in an elegiac An mood . d as we look up an d down the a a u v lley , then cross to the lower s mmit and a u m a fin lly to the s m it of Mont Bl nc , where 251 CHAMO NIX AND ITS ENVIRO NS the last rosea te h u es of setting su n still

u a a m linger , invol nt rily the lines of J es ’ Montgomery s beautiful poem come to o u r

Co me o den e e n n ! in the es , g l v i g w t

En ro n e the o rm-d e n su n th st isp lli g , And le t the tr i pl e ra i n bo w nest ' ' - is O cr all the mo u n tai n to ps ; T do ne .

The e m es ea e o d a n d r t p t c s s . b l b ight. The ra i n bo w shoo ts fro m hil l to bill ; D own si n ks th e su n ; o n passes night ; Mo n t Blan c is lo ve ly stil l !

ere a ke th a nd m r read Th t y st . y spi it ; sp The wo rld o f sh ad o ws a t thy fee t ;

n m rk ho w m o e r ead A d a ca l ly v h .

The a r ke sa n in o r mee . st s . li i ts gl y. t

W e hid in so u de u me hil lit s bli , ' ks I e u Me thi n mu s o n na t re s to mb. And h ea r the pa ssi n g foo t o fTim e

e Ste p th ro ugh th sil en t gloo m .

in a mo men ra o n ra All t. c sh c sh F ro m pre ci pice to preci pice. ' An ava la n ch e s m i ns dash

D o n to th e n et ermo t a s w h s bys , I n visible ; the ca r al o n e l d Pu rsu es th e u pro a r til it ies.

E o to e o roa n fo r roa n ch ch . g g ,

F m dee to dee re i e . ro p p. pl s 25 2

Wh ere all the strange mu ta ti o n s wro ught W ere magic fea ts o f my o wn min d ;

r in a a r la nd o f h o u Fo . th t f i y t ght. ' "

W a e e r I see k fin d . h t . I CHAPTER X

G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE

NE of the oldest and most fam ou s Eu a a cities in rope is Geneva , c pit l of Ca a the nton of the same n me , and situ a ted at the sou thern end of the Lake wher e R the hone issues from its waters , to join the r a u Arve fu rthe above . It is f mo s not only bu t for its scenery , for i ts history , for its liter ar a a a y associ tions , for the ch r cter of its people , and for the fact th a t for centu ries it has been a a centre of Protest ntism . It has been su ng an d praised by poets and men of letter of all

. T Ru times hus lyrically , though in prose , skin writes

l am m r t a ful u r And sti l I o e h nk , thro gh eve y ar a l f a was r in Lo n ye of dded i e , th t I bo n ndo , near enou gh to Gen eva for me to reach it easily an d yet a city so con trary to everythin g Gen evese as best to teach me what the wonders of the little

Ca r . A Can ur mi u ar nton we e little ton fo les sq e, m a u r a rmi l a r co posed of cl ste of w te l s , st eet of u n r s pentho ses , two woode b idge , two dozen of 255 G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE

o u o n a an d r o r o u r stone h ses little hill , th ee f ar an u a n d n The perpen di cu l l es p d o w the hill . o u r mi acr a r u n i n ra s m od f les of e ge o d . g s , with est ar n an d a rm l n - u s the o g de s f dwe li g ho se , pe ple , u ar a n d u to a m an to a o m a n pio s , le ned b sy, , w a to a r m ro r ss n to a n d fro to boy , gi l of the ; p g e i g m r a n d o nl r t ha d ostly on thei feet , y whe e hey ’ An d r n s o f a ac o u n . t be b si ess this bi d s e t pl e , the cen tre of religio us a n d so ci al tho ught a n d o f al a u a ll vi n Eu ro ! T a to physic be ty , to li g pe h t is sa ki n an d s i n Eu ro — ra n c y, thin g de ign g pe F e ,

G rman a . T an d t r s a n d e y, It ly hey hei pietie r r r ar an d r n an s r thei p ides , thei ts thei i s itie . thei ra an d au r s r n n an d o r n w ths sl ghte s , p i gi g fl we i g, bu d n an d o r f n a n d o a min a n d u r il i g, f ti yi g f g th nde ing rou nd this in con ceivable poin t of pa tien ce ; m an d m o s n o ta b the ost lovely spot . the t le , with o u t an s s u the Euro an u ni y pos ible di p te, of pe ” r ve se .

Ru k u u a wa in And then s in , in his s l y of v e i hin a a s all m s g g g in t modern improve ent , a a spe ks of the presen t condition of Genev , “ the u u m m u a wi th polyp o s knots of ho ses , co n l

L ar an d Ne w Y . a wi th ondon , P is ork Bene th which a n d on the espl an ades of the mod e rn a Ne w an d L c sino , York ondon now live , no ” r mo e the Geneves e . The histo rv of Geneva ru ns ba ck to far 25 6

G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE

th th est times . It was the chief city of e Allobrogi ; w as twice destroyed an d rebu ilt R a E under the om n mperors , was christened u u u u in the fo rth cent ry , fell nder the assa lts u u a of the B rg ndians , and l ter formed part of D r the em pire of Charlem agne . u ing the Mid u at dle Ages it was r led first by Bishops , then by Counts of Geneva ; but little by little gained its independence till in the eleventh centu ry it Bu t w as recognised as a free imperial city . for centu ries afterward it was in continual sta te of stru ggle aga inst the efforts of the D u kes of Savoy to incor pora te it in their T u domain . his end red till the beginning of u the sixteenth cent ry , when the citizens of a r a a Genev we e divided into two p rties , M me u u a l kes , or followers of the Ho se of S voy , and Hu en o ts E the g ( idgenossen) who , strength ened by the treaty with Freibu rg ( 15 19) an d Bern made desperate efforts to W achieve their freedom . ith the introduction R a u a an d of the eform tion nder F rel Viret , Geneva occu pied an influ enti al position in

Eu rope . Everybody knows how Calvin es tablish ed there a theocra tic government ; how C a u all alvinists of Fr nce , Switzerland , H ngary an d a e Germ ny , henceforth in the days of pers 2 57 G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE e u tio n u i a t rned the r eyes to G enev , as to the as ! r cita del of their hopes . And al eve ybody a lso knows how Mich a el Se rvetu s was bu rned a t a Ca au r the st ke by lvin , bec se of his doct ine ’ of the Lo rd s S u pper . A vivid pict u re of the narrow religio u s life ’ in Geneva u nder Calvin s rule is given by Rodolphe Rey in his Geneva et les Ri ves d a “ Léman : — a Ca According to the l ws of lvin , each head of a fam ily was req uired to a t tend divine service and to brin g u p hi s children and serva nts in the p u re doctrine . Pl aying a s a an d r u c rds , dice , mu ic , d ncing , the f eq ent a ll ing of taverns were forbidden . No t only was a n d blasphemy punished , bu t even ligh t

r an d vul a a a . The f ivolous songs , g r l ngu ge ’ d ay began at five o clock in the morning ; mos t ur h rs of the people wen t to ch ch t e fi t thing . W a s the u ar an d hen the g te were opened , g ds the peas ants fell to their kn ees a n d u t te red a In the a the r a short p rayer . fternoon me ch n ts sh u t the shops and went to church . All orn aments of gold an d silver were forbidden . u u all su erflui t i d i All l x ry , p y in liv ng , lo g ng ,

u u had a a . The i food , f rni t re dis ppe red r ch lived fru ga lly in o rder to help the needs of th e ”

o r an d a a e n . po , to r ise l rge coll c tio s 95 8

G ENEVA AND ITS LAK E

' a to D io d a ti o Milton , who wrote sonnet , Byr n ,

an d r . Shelley , many othe s The situ a tion of Geneva is one of the most lovely in Eu rope The inne r pa rt of the city

a a a a ra still ret ins its ncient ppe nce . w ith high

he n u a n d a rr r . T ho ses , steep n ow st eets fi est q u arters a re a long the G rand Q u ai a n d the u a hIo n t Bla n e t r a m Q i de , wi h thei h ndso e

r an d Ru e d u a b idges hotels , the Mont Bl nc , the C o rrate rie wi th thei r shops a n d the Pl a ce de Pla in pa l a is. O bjec ts of c u riosity a re the ' u C a R u a u r ho se of lvin , the site of o sse s bi th

a a a u m n u m pl ce , th t of S uss re , the o ent of

Rou sseau and the isl and n am ed a fter him . a a a u m r m I h ve lived in Genev n be of ti es , a u a t r a n d m a k ttending co rses the Unive sity , ing trips to the su rro u nding co u nt ry . As I

r m m n o a twe n t w ite these lines . y i d g es b ck v years to the time when fi rst I sa w this l o vely '

w as Leh r a n d Il a nder a h ren . city . It in my j I h a d spent seve ra l semesters a t the Unive rsity

h a d r m r to a r a n d of Berlin , gone f o the e P is ,

o fin ally in e a rly spring had com e t Geneva . a u m m o beco m Here I spent n ber of nths ,

a u a a ing cq inted with the Genevese , w lking r u u r e s ro n o n th o gh the s nny st e t . w i g the a r u a d u a l ke , linge ing on the Q i Mont Bl nc 2 6 0 G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE in the afternoon to see the Alpenglow of su n on a u a set the dist nt s mmit of Mont Bl ne , gazing with interest a t the gayeties in Plain a a a Ti r Féderal p l is on the occ sion of the , or a dmiring the so -called embr asem en t or illu mi n ation o f the har bou r at night . O n holidays there were the trips to the places of interest in the su rrou nding country ; fa to Ferney , six miles from Geneva , rendered mous by Voltai re who came here after the dis astrou s resu lt of his visit to Frederick the Grea t and who domin a ted all Eu rope from this small a an d a 1778 vill ge , only le ving it in to go to m a Paris , to die fro the effects of the potheosis with which he w as there honou red ; to Ch a mo n ix a Do , lready mentioned ; to the le and

a a . the shores of the l ke , mentioned l ter N o pleasant memo ries come to me as I O n e u La wr ite . of the bicycle jo rney to ke an Annecy , with exciting incident of my u a a w bicycle r nning w y with me , going do n a an d long hill , only stopped just in time to prevent a disastrou s pl u nge in the river ; and e the other the climb to the top of the Sal ve , a long hill of limestone rock to the sou theast a a u u a of Genev , bo t three tho s nd feet high , an d ten miles long , sinking down at each end 96 1 G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE

h u a s u an d m arked wit longit din l stripe . d e to horiz on ta l stra ta of whitish cal ca reo us he a e r stone . T spect of the Sal ve f om the cu a d u e t i s a o ve town is pe li r , to the s r pe b d an d mentione , to the strange dent on the d the u m r ec steep e ge of s mi t . whe e a pi e a k o ff a v a seems to h ve been knoc ed , le ing wide gap down to the mid -height of the u a w a a es o t r mo nt in , i th str t corr p nding on ei he Fo r a e a e h fav side . ye rs th S l ve as been 8 i e the h a s o r t resort for in bitant of Geneva. us has thou gh li ttle known to tou rists . R kin a nother of hi s contemptu ous fli ngs at English to u rists a pro pos of th is mo u nta in . In the se c u Pra’te rita s b s ho w ond vol me of the , he de cri e “ a o e d a u ev b ve fi ld and woo . le ps p the Sal e ' " clifl u a e the air an d t , two tho s nd fe t into , hen ’ a a d s G e dds , I don t think nybo y who goe to

a s the a e . th e nev ever see S l ve For most part, no English crea tu re ever does see farther than w a an d the a e s o u a over the y; S l ve , unle s y c re u an d a o u t a re f lly peer into it m ke wh t it is , p be a l th e tends to nothing . long low swell ike u t D a e o ta So h owns , I f ncy most p ple ke it for . ” an d loo k no mo re . Th ere is a ce r ta in i rr ita tion that com es to in r a Ru w his r us e ding skin . i th p ide of accu 96 2

G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE

‘ ' Fo r his masc u li ne G oo d Mo rro w whe n with su nr is e still in h o ld

a he a her a nd ma n ific t ril ed her a k e n h G y h ils , . g . h l , bl c l gt

u rn to o d b s g l ,

an d U we en ho w carel ess — na ho w o o u ! All Up p w t, y j y s

was new .

n Call ro re o ilso me ? a ere u All was stra ge . p g ss t th t w j st i n su lti ng yo u ?

’ Ho w the tree s m u st tempe r noo ntid e ! Ah the thicket s su dde n brea k!

W i be th e mo rn n o r en t usk u ha t w ll i g gl y. wh a d th s gleams the la ke ?

L b o rt G e ne a : a a la nd an d o f the ight y light pu ts f h v wh t .

and l . Ca n th ere be a lo ve li er sta ti o n than this spo t whe re no w we sta n d ?

’ Th ere s the co nvent wo rth a visit ; bu t th e tri u mph cro wni ng all

' ’ Th ere s Saleve s o w n pla tfo rm facin g gl o ry whi ch stri kes

rea n es m al g t s s l ,

Bla n e u rem e a o e ea rth - ro od need es re d an d w i e , s p b v his b , l h t

an d re n g e .

Ho rn o f er a nd o f r a se t o n ed e in his s silv . b s c yst l g " demesn e .

Even more famou s a nd beau tifu l th an the city is the Lake of Geneva . ” C a a Le m a o u t C le r , pl cid n , cries hilde ’ a H rold in Byron s poem , 264 G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE

Th n ra ed ake y co t st l ,

W e i d o r d I d e in a i n ith th w l w l w lt , is th g

W i arn me lln es to or ake h ch w s , with its sti s , f s ’ E ro u ed a er fo r a a rer rin arth s t bl w t s f i sp g, This qu iet sa il is as a n o iseless wing ” To waft me fro m distracti o n .

An d then for a num ber of stanzas we have a m agnificent poetic itin erary of the shores of a the l ke . In recent years Sir Leslie Stephen has added his testimony to the beauty of Lake Geneva in eloqu ent words :

The Lake o f Geneva is al most a sacred place to the lo ver of m ou n ta i n scenery ; whether we hail it as the first in trod u cti o n to the beau ties o f th e Alps o r pay th m a as ar rom its s or s is u a in e l t f ewell f h e , it eq lly o m ara its o rou n o f ro k an d an n c p ble, l vely g pi g c h gi g mead o w an d distan t sn o w an d ri ch lo wland and b read th o f dee p blu e wa ter strike o n e as a m asterpiece in so me

a r o f u s andsca s. W e n ow oo k u o n g lle y exq i ite l pe l p it , o r ou to o o u o n as n d h oe ical asso ght l k p it , ti ge wit p t ” au an B r ciatio ns from Rousse d y on .

W hile the city of Geneva had long been a l u a centre of re igio s and soci l thought , in Eu rope , it was only toward the end of the eighteenth century th a t the natu ral beauty L of the ake began to a ttract visitors . 965 G ENEVA AND ITS LAI

‘ " For his masculi ne G oo d Mo rro when wi ho ld

he a ls her an d ma nifi r ll ed G ay h i , , g th i ,

urn to o d b s g l , — d u we en ho w car ebs na Up an p w t, y

was new.

n e all ro re o l so m All was stra g . C p g t i insu ltin g yo u How the tree s mu st tempe r po ntide ! su dden brea k! What will be the mo rnin g glo rywhen a' the lake ? Light by light pu ts forth Ge n es : what

an d l , Can th ere be a lo velier sta tio n tan this sta n d ?

’ Th ere s the con ven t wo rth a vi t; bu t t all

’ ‘ ’ There s Saleve s o wn platfo rmfacing rea n es ma l g t s s l ,

B an e u reme a o e ea rthcroo d l , s p b v his ,

an d re n g e ,

Horns of i er and o f s lv , b s ( vstal ” dem esne .

E ‘ ven more famous ad bf t L city is the ake of G en va . ” C L a lear , placid em , ’ oet Harold in Byron s p , 2 6

G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE

The a u an d w au l bo rs the ritings of S ssure , C a m as the discovery of h onix , the cent of w Bu w a a a . t as Mont Bl nc , prep red the y it Rou ssea u who mad e the sho res of La ke Geneva an d the s u rrou nding co u ntry the most “ ” - popu l ar tou r isten pu nkt in Eu rope . It w as he who ga ve the first impu lse to mod ern W him mo u nta in wo rship . ith th e love of a u r was r a n t e deep and pe son l , not merely scientific or intellectu al . In his loneliness a n d a a n d exile , tormented by morbid f ncies al - a u all m e n u his h f ins ne s spicion of , he fo nd r a an d a b comfo t , pe ce , he lth in the osom of a a n d oo n atu re . He especi lly loved wild gl my and l u s C n essio ns a scenes , tel s in his o f th t “ r u i a r r s he eq red torrents , rocks , d k fo e t , ”

u a an d . a mo nt ins , precipices Ag in in the N ou vell e H eloise a , spe king of the scenery of “ a a a a a m r s the V l is , he s ys , It is gener l i p e sion which all men expe rience tho u gh a ll do r a the m u a not obse ve it , th t in high o nt in th e a ir u an d a ra where is p re cle r , the respi tion r a n d u is freer , the body is lighte , the so l is more serene Yet it wo u ld be a m ista ke to ’ a tt ribu te to Rou sseau the sentim ents of “ords wo r th a n d Ru skin in rega rd to the h igher w mou nta in regions of Switz erl and . He as 2“ 66 G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE like the eighteenth century in being devoid “ The of the capacity for fee ling awe . Alpine ” “

IVIr . waste, says Morley, which throws n n r your puniest moder i to raptu e, had no he attr action for him . T humble heights of the Jur a and the lovely points of the valley of Chambery sufficed to give him ” u all the pleas re of which he was capable . Most of the la ndscapes he describes are u La a C a s those aro nd ke Genev , l ren , Vevey ,

Meillerie , and the valley of the Rhone . His s a at l de cription of the retre t Mei lerie, given No'wvelle H éloi se a fa in the , was especi lly u his in mo s , and attracted devotees large numbers . It may not be in appropriate to quote here u s part of th is famo s pa sage , which among i u the an d others nd ced Goethe to visit lake , “ i ed in 1779 u when he v sit Vevey , he co ld not restrain his tears when he saw across the lake Meillerie and had before him all the pl ace which th e im mortal Rousseau had pe opled ” with living forms . Th e reader of the N ozw ell e H eloise will re u an u member how St . Pre x d J lie have bee n i a a fish idly row ng over the w ters of the l ke , t u in ing near the shore , hen p sh g out to open 967 G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE l ake to admire the bea u ty of the shore of the a u a s all a l ke and the mo nt in on sides , how i a l northwest w nd fin l y drove them to shore . where after a struggle they s u cceeded in w landing . It as near the hill of Meill erie . T an d the a hey ate lunch , as w ters were

u . u d tou r de still ro gh , St Pre x propose a promenade .

“ ’ We reached Meilleri e after an ho u r s walk o ver the resh an d w nd n ath hi h mo u n i n e n l f i i g p . w c t g g t y

e e n ro ks and r s was tro u so m o n o n se b twe c t ee , ble e ly

r co u n t o fits length . T his so lita ry pl ace fo rmed a éd u il d and d ser ed bu t u o f h ose kin ds o f be au wil e t , f ll t ty h h ase o n sen i so u an d see m err to w ic ple ly sit ve ls . t ible ’ o o thers. A to rre nt fo rmed by melti ng f sn o ws ro lled

en s s ro m u s its mudd a er an d no i tw ty tep f y w t . is ly

ca rr d a a ith cla sand an d to n s. Beh in d ie w y w it y. , s e u s a ch ai n o f i n accessible ro cks se para te d the espl an ad e where w e were fro m that part o f the Al ps cal led Les G a i rs b caus no rmo u su mmi s o f ice h ia l c e . e e e s t whic in cessan tly has co vered them si n ce the begi nn i ng

Fo r s s o f fir-tr s mad a mel o f the wo rld . e t bl ack ee e an l ar ro e o f oak cho y shad o w o n o ur right. A l ge g v r es was to the f o n the o r de o f the o rren t e le t , the si t t ; an d e o us hi s mm ns ai n o f a r h the b l w t i e e pl w te . whic ak o rm in the bo o m o f th e s ara d u s ro m l e f s s Al ps . ep te f th e ri h o as s o f the Can o n de au d cro n d b the c c t t V , w e y summ ofthe ma i it jes t c Ju ra. 2 68

G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE

But besides the all-pervading presence of R u au a La o sse , lmost every town on or near ke Geneva is associated more or less wi th some a — C other great n me , Geneva with alvin , Lau w Co Ma sanne i th Gibbon , ppet with

ae . C r u L dame de St l , St e g e with amartine , and Ferney with Voltai re . Most interest all E - eo ing of , however , for nglish speaking p ple are the memories that clu ster abou t the Th n ames of Byron and Shelley . e former his r L r after separation f om ady By on , in 18 1 6 a R i Bal e , s iled up the h ne to , thence to Lau n i Bern , sa ne , and Geneva , mark ng his route , as he went , by those wonderful stan Childe H arold zas of , which are among the ” noblest poems of places ever written . O n arriving at Geneva he stopped at the hotel in Secheron j u st outside of the town on the west shore of the l ake . Here he became a u C a cq ainted with Shelley , his wife , and l ra

C a . The lermont , a rel tive of the latter two great bu t eccentric poets became at once fast a friends ; both were extremely fond of bo ting, an d a a every evening , accomp nied by the l dies , W a a . fin d they s iled on the l ke hen Shelley , a e ing the life at the hotel too de r , left S cheron and took a villa on the eastern shore of the 269 G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE a u a a r n l ke , Byron wo ld s il cross eve y eve ing. am th e a m till he too c e to live on s e side , in D iod ati n the the Villa , once ow ed by well a t a a m known Genevese theologi n of h t n e , who had here been honou red by a visit from h Milton . T e life of the two poets a t this ti m e a m s r was strange ingling of idlene s and wo k , “ ” of high thinking an d low livi ng . They did bu t not go into society , spent the time in a a an d a re ding , writing , bo ting long convers

r far . tions , often p olonged into the night It is doubtfu l if society wou ld h ave received h ad a ed an r them , even if they m nifest y desi e a a a a as for it , inste d of voiding system tic lly they did all interco u rse with the wo rld o u t h side of their o wn little grou p . T e most s a r incredible storie , s ys Byron , we e told con cerning him ; he w as w atched from the other side of the lake thro u gh telescopes ; on one oc

' as u a a m Staeil an c ion in the ho se of M d e de , old l ady swooned when he entered the roo m . The most interesting episode of the sojo u rn of Byron an d Shelley in Geneva w as the circu m n aviga tion of the l a ke in the m onth of a u s a r r J u ne . Both bec me enth sia tic dmi e s of Ro u au r sse , whose spi it seems to hover over a m every part of the l ake . The gre t senti ental 270

G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE

u u u a a n mero s sojo rns in Genev . two especi lly n e w as a sta nd forth . O when with pa rty of a m Genevese I left Genev in the orning , went a r a as far as N a e u by r il o d yon , then w lk d p r to the little vill age of St . Ce gu e in a green a at the a D o La a r v lley b se of the le , where m tine

o went to esca pe military service u nder Na pole n . Here we h ad a splendid view of La ke Geneva a n d the Mont Bl a nc ; b u tfo u n d som e diffic u lty a a in getting pl ce to sleep , for the present hotels W a n d pensions we re not then in existence . e a u a m a a fin lly fo nd cco mod tions in the townh ll . an d a m rising e rly in the morning , cli bed to u m D o a o f the s mit of the le , the highest pe k r u the Swiss J u ra . He e we p as sed a delightf l u a a a u a a t ho r or two , m de he rty l nch , g zed a n d u r u the extensive pict esq e view , with the

au u La a a t o u r a be tif l ke Genev feet , the m j estic

Bl o n t Blan e with its m antle of eve rl asting snow .

a u r am r u Inste d of ret ning by the s e o te , we w alked along the s u mm it of the J u ra u ntil we a rr a t C o l la a u r be r ived the de F cille , whe e fo e a a a ra r m a the d ys of the r ilro d , t velle s fro Fr nce u su ally m ade thei r ent ra nce i n to Switzerl a nd . It w as by this roa d th a t Ru skin c a m e to G e a 1835 a n d he r e au u nev in , desc ibes the b tif l view in his c u stom a ry e n th u si as tic m a nner . 972 G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE

The carriage road crossed the Jura by the “ Co l de la Faucille , where the chain opens u a s ddenly , and a sweep of the ro d , traversed n u in five mi tes at a trot , opens the whole of Lake Geneva an d the ch ain of the Alps along ” a h u ndred miles of horizon . “ I have never seen this view perfectly bu t “

. Ru a once , continues Mr skin , in this ye r 1835 ; when I drew it carefu lly in my then

a a . f shion , and h ve been contented I look b ack to it as the confir ming sequel of the fir st h flh View of the Alps from Sc au au sen . Very l at few travel ers , even in old times , saw it all ; tired of the long posting journey from Paris , by the time they got to the Co l they were mostly thinking only of their dinners and rest at Geneva ; the guide-books sa id nothing about it ; an d thou gh for everybody it was an a a R inevitable t sk to scend the ighi , nobody ever thought there w as anything to be seen u a a ha from the Dole . Both mo nt ins h ve d enormous infl u ence on my whole life ; th e D ole continu ally and cal m ly ; the Righi at Bu o l l a Fau sorrowful intervals . t the C de cille on that d ay of 1835 opened to me in distinct vision the Holy Land of my futu re s work , and true home in this world . My eye 273 G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE h ad a n d a been opened my he rt with them , to see a n d possess roya lly s u ch a kingdom ! Far o u a a a a n d its as the eye c ld re ch , th t l nd moving or pa u sing w a te rs ; A rve a n d his ga tes C u a n d a r u a R n of l se , his gl cie fo nt ins ; ho e in fin itu d e a r a and the of his s pphi e l ke , his a a a r u m a pe ce bene th the n ciss s e ds of Vevey ,

h o m o r o his cru elty bene a th t e p r ont ies f Sie rre . And all th a t rose aga inst a n d m elted into the m u a a n d u a - a n d a ll sky , of o nt in mo nt in snow ; a a u u m a a th t living pl in , b rning with h n gl d u m a m w a ness , st dded with white ho es , ilky y ” of star dwellings ca st ac ross the s u nlit bl u e . Another delightfu l t rip th a t sta nds o u t in my m emory is th a t a ro u nd the l a ke on a W a n m r a r a bicycle . ith A e ic n f iend , now

r o u r u r I a r p ofessor in one of nive sities , st ted

o o u t to ci rcle both the sho res f Lake Geneva .

a r -five m n a n d As the l ke is fo ty iles in le gth , in i ts widest p a r t u pw a rds o f eight a n d a h a lf

a h a d to a ra a miles bro d , we t ke seve l d ys to

u w a m a ccom plish the j o u rney . B t it as ost we r r o u r delightfu l one . ski ted fi st the s the n r a m a m d shore , which beyond the little st e n e W a He rm a nce belongs to Fra nce . e p ssed

r u T - - a E a n -l es - a a th o gh honon les B ins , vi B ins , fashion able resort freq u ented chiefly by the 974

G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE

was d d Geneva , he highly honore and endowe

1570 . with a pension . He died about b d a It has een prove , however, th t Byron was entirely ign ora nt of the story of Bo n ivard ; his u b a r an r and prisoner, tho gh he e s histo ic a r e is n me , neve thel ss a poetic fiction ; yet nothing envelops the C as tle of Chillon wi th a i a a r an r more pu ss nt ch m th the lines of By on , who bea rs the sa me rel a tion to the Lake of

Geneva tha t Sch iller does to th a t of Lu cern e .

C o n ! th ri o n is a o a e hill y p s h ly pl c . ' And th sa d oo r an fo r a y fl alta r. tw s trod .

U n his e r te s a e ef a ra e til v y s p h v l t t c ,

W o m as the ld em e n were . if co pav t a no d.

B Bo niva rd ! Ma no ne o se ma rk cfl y y th s aee.

Fo r the eal m an n to y app fro tyr y G o d .

The jou rney back to Geneva by the north r fa r r re a n d c s u sho e is mo e inte sting . on eq ently m a ta kes more ti e th n by the so u th shore . The difference in the ch ara cter of the l and an d the people between the two is very strik ing ; the so u thern or French shore being for the most part occupied by poo r a n d wre tched villages inh abited by u nh appy-loo ki ng pe as ants ; while the Sw iss shore is one cons ta nt a w s a nd vi a s succession of pleas nt to n ll ge , 976 G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE

s s splendid hotel , country house and villas , a n an d r groves and g rde s , p omenades along T u the shore . here is Montre x , which con sists of a number of villages scattered on the a C ar T rr hillside or on the l ke ; l ens , e itet , a u a n d a Veyt x , others , the centr l point being Montreu x -Ve m ex where are the railroad sta an d a tion ste mboa t pier . Then there is a La u Vevey , next in import nce to sanne , the ’ Ro u au N ou velle H éloi se an d scene of sse s , possessing a little ch u rch in which are the remains of the regicides Lu dlow a n d Bro u gh a n ton . Both Vevey d the vario u s constitu ent elem ents of Montreu x are a m ong the most u a a as pop l r resorts in Switzerl nd , not only a m m bu t a as a . A su er , lso winter residence u a a u so - a ra C u pop l r fe t re is the c lled G pe re , which begins a t the end of Septem ber a n d l asts a month . O n acco u nt of all this we are not su rp rised at the ext ra o rdina ry number of good hote ls and pensions which crowd the r an d a r sho e hills of this p t of the l ake . Past a a a n d a these ple s nt towns vill ges we go , throu gh the pict u resquely sit u a ted city of Lau a u r s nne , thro gh Mo ges , with its fine view of a u R an d N a n d Mont Bl nc , thro gh olle , yon ,

' C a am u a a e oppet , m de f o s by M d me de Sta l . 2 77 G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE until we com e to the ch a r m ing vill as an d rich a a r r a veget tion which do n the envi ons of Genev , a fi a re ching n lly the city itself . O n e trip th a t the t ra velle r ca nnot fa il to take r a u u o r r r is to Fe ney , the chate j st ve the f ontie s ,

as I a a r a m n d a r in which , h ve l e dy entio e , Volt i e lived a fter he cam e b ack from Pru ssi a in 1758 an d which for the next twe n ty ye a rs bec a me r ra r u a n d o the cent e of the lite y , religio s phil

a m ra . r sophic l move ents of F nce He e , blessed with a competence which relieved him from a ll u a a u rr u a m pec ni ry nxieties , s o nded by the d i n a a ra a ll Eu ration , y by the do tion , of r a rope , his mental powe s not ffected by his ! a e a r a growing g , Volt i e beg n one of the most u u a t a n a e fr itf l epochs of his life , g when most men think of reti ring from a ll a ctive

W a o r o r a r . a n a u f l bo ith sto nding bility w k , r a a n d r o u r r w ve s tility ene gy , he p ed fo th rit

all r o a n d a m s r ings of so ts , bo ks p phlet . lette s

an d a r a n d r . r ess ys , p ose poet y His wo ks

r a r u fo r an d r a a ll Eu r we e e ge ly so ght e d by ope , u r a n d a n d by re r bo geois noble , even F de ick

Em C a r Ru a a n d II , press the ine of ssi , the

n D m a r a a n d . Ki gs of en k , Pol nd . S weden “ " h ad u Eu r w as a o f He fo nded in ope , it s id him a a u w as u a n d , le g e of which he the so l , 978

G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE of which the war-cry was reason and toler ” ance . O nly once did he leave this world u u a 1 778 famo s chatea ; th t was in , when he r went to Pa is , to enjoy the ovation which was an d prepared for him there where , overcome 3 0 1 778 by the excitement , he died May , , at

- the age of eighty four years . W e can still see to-d ay the ch u rch he buil t a u for the people of the vill ge he fo nded , “ ” with the inscr iption D eo erexit Voltai re

(built for God by Voltaire) . And in the cha teau many m em o rial s of the grea t writer him r a a can self , while f om the g rden terr ce we enjoy the s ame beau tifu l View over Lake G e neva th a t he enjoyed as he sat there day after r day one hundred and fifty yea s ago . A number of tim es as I h ad passed by rail from Ber n to Lau sa nn e I h ad adm ired the com an d au a - u fort be ty of the fine old f rm ho ses , which give su ch a prospero u s look to that u a n d I i I part of the co ntry , had often w shed might spend some tim e ther e on one of these farms . At l ast one Ju ne my wishes were I i gratified , and for five weeks lived the l fe of the French peas ant of the Canton de ’ u r Vau d . O farm was abou t one hou r s walk L u from a sanne , high on the hill , and com 2 79 G ENEVA AND ITS LAK E prised abo u t one h u nd red a cres o f rolling

a a a n d fi d a . O n a l nd , me dows el s of gr in cle r d ays we co u ld see the whole extent o f the a a e a l ke , with the S l ve in the dist nce behind

a a n d R a Genev , on the left the hone V lley with the snowy peaks of the Gra nd Co m bin in the backgrou nd . Ac ross the bl u e w a te rs a la a t o u r w as of the l ke which y feet Meillerie , r a m u R u a u a n d rende ed so f o s by o sse , over u r one of its sho lde s peeped Mont Bl a nc . This w as h ad a te o u r the view which we , when we

a as u a a me ls ( we often did) o tside , bene th “ r a - r r a te a n d sp e ding linden t ee , whe e we ” h u o drank an d saw God a lso . T e be a ty f

’ a u r r a a ra m e m n t e , howeve , is not wh t tt cted ost m b u t a ra r at a o . the f r , the ch cte of the pe ple h It is indeed wo rthy of note . T e wo rd ” peas ant h as acq u i red a pejo ra tive sign ifi a fo r m r a a n d m c tion most A e ic ns , the co ic ill u st ra tions of the Ge rm a n ba u cr in s u ch

a r as F l ie end e Bl a ll e r o r d e scri p pe s the g , the p ' tions of the F rench peas a nts in Zol a s La

Terre a o u r re , cert inly do not tend to w in spect fo r the tiller of the soil in Eu rope . Le t the following facts serve to co u nte ra ct this

. The a m r a t a n a evil notion Swiss f r e , y r te , is equ al to the simil ar cl ass in o u r own co u ntry . 980 prised abou a o land , me d days we co n th e lake , with

Geneva , and with the snowy in the b ackgro of the lake whic1 rendered so fan one of its sh o u ld e was the View whi meals (as we ofte spreading linden -t drank and saw G e

1. nature , however , is bu t th e at the farm , It is indeed worth “ ” peasant has ae qu i cation for most Am, illustr a tions of the papers as the F tions of the F Terre a n t , cert inly do spect for the tiller of he the followi ng facts sew he Swis i evil notion . T is equal to the similar cass 90

G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE

s d grown son , both of whom worke on the a a u w as u a a rm f rm , ltho gh one lie ten nt in the y a n d the other w as president of the ca nto n a l r m a rr d a n Y . M . C . A . Both we e ie d lived

r a r o o u a m at home . A mo e h m ni s f ily I neve r saw ; all the fa rm ing o pe ra ti o n s went o n s m oothly witho u t a hitch an d eve ry one deeply

a u r a r as was . No enjoyed the life of l bo , h d it more idyllic pict u re h a d I ever seen th a n when

a u m m r n as su n w a s n on s e eveni g , the setti g ,

all o u t fi r as we went to the elds , child en well

a s a n d m ra ba . The ra men wo en , to ke y ys of the setting su n fl u shed with rosy light the

fi a n d a r a u r a elds , the hills v lleys . the b o d s f ce a and a - a o f of the l ke , the dist nt snow pe ks o m in r the Gra nd C b . And when the wo k was w a o a r its w a done , the g n st ted on y to the a ar u m e n a b d gre t b n , the yo ng w lking esi e

o ld a a n d he r d a u h it whistling , while the l dy g te r- in -law moved homew a rd with thei r ra kes o thrown across thei r sho u lde rs . As I lo ked on this scene invol u nta rily the lines of Horace came to my mind

Il a th e ma n in bu sv eme u ns k l ed ppy sch s i l ,

“h o n m ke o u r re : o f o ld livi g si pl y li si .

i the fe w a re h a h e r i ed T lls c s whic his f t t ll . " V exed by no tho u ghts o fu su ry o r go ld . 98 2

G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE preaching on S u nd ays in the little cha pel to a n au dience which came from far an d near to hear the words of the gospel ; m aking his a a v ll pastor l c lls in a ey a n d on mounta in side . He was a t rue pict u re of the fa ithful pastor described by Goldsmith in his D eserted Vit lage

u r mee k and u naf At ch ch wi th fected grace. His oo k ado rn ed the e nera e la e l s v bl p c ,

Th e e r e as a ro u n d th e o u man s vic p t. pi s ,

W rea d ea ea o n e ru i ran ith y z l , ch h st st c ' E en dre n o l o ed en dea r n W l e chil f l w wi th i g i , ' An d u ked hi s o n to a re the oo d ma n pl c g w . sh g s smile ' His rea d m e a aren a rm e re sed y s il p t s w th xp s ,

e r e ar e eas ed him a nd h e r a re distrm ed Th i w lf pl , t i c s ;

To t em ea rt o e r e ere en h his h . his l v , his g i fs w giv ,

e r u o u i Bu t all his s i o s th ghts ha d rest n hea ven . ' o me a l elifi a s its aw u o rm As s t l th t lift f l f .

S el ro m th e a e and m d a ea e the o rm w ls f v l , i w y l v s st ,

o u ro u nd reas th e ro l n o ud are rea d Th gh its b t li g cl s sp ,

Etern al su nshin e se ttl es o n its h ea d .

hi o n sie u r Micol had come to La ke Geneva a a r a an d to conv lesce fte severe illness , we h ad m a ny a delightfu l wa lk together over the r u a a a are hills , th o gh the ple s nt groves th t so well c a red fo r by the Swiss commune to l which they belong . I remember especia l y 0 84 G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE one Sunday evening when he preached to all ar r an d the people on the f m , the prop ietress s au her son and d ghters , the servants and - u h farm hands , and the s mmer visitors . T e was room low and dark , lighted only by a dim ’ a a u a a l mp , so th t we co ld h rdly see e ch other s An d had a faces . when he re d the scriptures a a m and pr yed , and we had sung hy n , M . an d Micol stood up told the story of his people , of the persecu tions again st them ; how espe ciall u T a y, after the co ncil of rent , fan ticism u a u bro ght death and dis ster pon them ; how , 1655 m in , an army co posed partly of French L XIV a r troops of ouis , p rtly of I ish soldiers , C who had fled before romwell , entered the Vaudois valleys an d spread destru ction on all a su ch sides , tre ting the people with horrid barbarity th a t the conscience of Eu r ope w as aroused and Engl and u nder Cromwell called on the Protestant powers to join in remon strance to the D u ke of Savoy an d the French I wa r King . . t s at this time that Milton w ote his famous sonnet (though M . Micol of course knew nothin g of this)

’ en e O Lo rd th slau hter d a n o e o ne Av g , , y g s i ts , wh s b s , Lie sca ttered o n the Alpi ne mo u n ta i n s co ld ; ’ E en th em who kept thy tru th so pu re o f o ld 285 G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE

l o u r a e r o r ed Wh en a l f th s w shi pp sto cks an d sto nes . Fo rge t n o t; in the bo o k reco rd th e i r gro a n s

Wh o e re th ee an d in e r a nc en o d w y sh p, th i i t f l ' S a n b the oo d edm o n e e a ro ll d l i y bl y Pi t s , th t

w n n t e k e r moa n Mo th e r ith i fa t do wn h ro c s . Th i s ' The va lcs rcd o u bl d to the l a n d the hil s , y ' v e r m a rt r e n w To hea n . Th i y d bl oo d a d ashes so ' ' O cr a ll th a a n fie d e re l d o awa It li l s , wh stil th y The tri ple tyra n t ; tha t fro m th e se may gro w

A u nd red - o d who a n ea rn th wa h f l , h vi g l t y y, w Ea rly may fly the Ba bylo n i a n o e .

Bu t the most d ram a tic of a ll incidents told by Pas tor l\Iie o l w as the pe rsec u ti o n a fte r R a E d e Na the evoc tion of the dict ntes , in

16 85 a a t m rm a , which imed the co plete exte in tion of the Vaudois of the Alps . Fin a lly a remn ant of we re a llowed to reti re in

B r safety to Geneva . u t the loss of thei n a tive

a w as r a m a n d v lley st ong ong the exiles , in 16 89 h r a r r r a u one of t ei p sto s , Hen i A n d , led a b and of eight h u nd red m e n ba ck to rec o n a m a q u e r thei r n ative l a nd . I h ve on y t ble

r as I a o o to m e befo e me write little b k , given as r l\Iico l r r u r by P to , on which this he oic et n , “ ” r u R r as a o f the Glo ie se ent ée , they c ll it ,

a u r b a r the V dois , is desc i ed by the le de of the

The o f b o expedition himself . long title the o k which is dedic ated to Q u een Anne of G rea t 986

G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE

' Les em s s en va o n ar e o n ri t p , p l , t,

O n en re o n o rt t , s ; ' ' uo ! dé a l été de a l au to mne Q i j . j , ' " Dé a l hiver dé a la mo r ! j , j t

The i me a e o n w e eak an d a u ( t p ss s , sp l gh , W e go o u t a nd in aga i n ; Wha t ! Su mm e r al ready! A u tum n al rmdy! W i n ter a lrea dy! Dea th alread y!)

m a s u For ti e indeed p sse , our s mmer is a n d au u m a n d a over , in t n winter , Swi tzerl nd Bu is practic ally dese r ted by t ravellers . t not a a a a without cert in elev tion of thought , deepe r feeling for the m ajesty of n a tu re can a air a u s we le ve the keen of these high ltit de , a a these rivers and l kes , these smiling vill ges r r u e a an d and p ospe o s cities , these gre n v lleys - r m u a snow cove ed o nt ins . It is no sm all benefit th a t comes to u s when we leave occasion a lly the a bso rbing pu rs u its of everyd ay life to brea the for a time the higher o a n d pu rer atm osphere of n a t u re . N t me rely

an d m a r r a bu t do we receive bodily ent l ec e tion , N r ca n as spi rit u al u plift as well . owhe e we t te so deeply the joys of eleva ted thou gh ts as in the m o u nta in wo rld of Switzerl a nd . Nowhere do we experience so completely th a t m enta l an d r u a u r u a s spi it l eq ilib i m , th t sense of re t 98 8 G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE an d peace which it is in the power of Natu re to give to those who know how to receive it . a r u And we c nnot close this b ief acco nt , in which not only have we enu merated the chief r r a bu t a objects of inte est in Switze l nd , h ve also tr ied to give the variou s ph ases of its u a r u pec li r spi it , than by q oting the poem on The Love o the Al s S f p , by John Addington y monds

ere was a me e mo u n a n and e rea m Th ti , y t i s y st s, ’ E er yet I kn ew th e might o f yo u r co n tro l ; ’ Bu t n o w ere er I o o ur re en e e em wh g , y p s c s s

To fil l the nm o am er o fm o u i st ch b y s l ,

Re r a n n m e in o u r o f o ro m ro n st i i g h s sl th f w g,

d ro m n n o er ou w en m n An p pti g bl th ghts h I a stro g.

Yo u saw an d heard me ; no t o n e wea ry h ou r Of all th a t wa iti n g time was spe n t in vai n ;

Fo r n e e o u r ro n ro e o er si c I f lt y st g p ph tic p w ,

Bea in the fier u e o f ea r an d ra n t y p ls h t b i ,

Yo u a e n o t e o ur er an da o r n h v l ft y s v t y ight ,

But are hi s ea e e u r e o f m o r and de c s l ss co s co f t light .

ere was n o nd n i o n no o u d cr Th bli i g v si , l y

Of u n dero u ad u ra o n en m o ul th s j ti s , wh y s

Fe a the o n e ra n ra e was n lt th t c s c ti g g c igh ,

An d eard the ea e n a e a u n de r ro h h v ly g t s s ll ,

And sa w the a o ed m er e a n d ro d h ll w yst i s , t

The o u nd n am er o f th o e o f s i g ch b s e h u s G od . 289 G ENEVA AND ITS LAKE

Su n e n a nd u n r n en a r s tti g s isi g. sil t st s

In dim ro e o n ro u the u n ro u ed sk p c ssi th gh t bl y,

S i n d a m u ma n d e n an d no s ar t ll wi s th t w t. i y j s

O f r n d a l n w th e l o u d o n whi lwi s b tt i g ith c s high ,

The o a r o e o f th e oo d s lit y v ic s fl s,

F o er and d ee a e o f rime al l w s, p pl c s p v woods ;

' e e ro u the a n e : fo r than ro m d oo d da wn Th s w ght ch g f chil h s ,

Had n u rtu red me o u e as ro u the r e ; th ghtl ss, th gh it s

e in a i o n I was d ra wn Ofd u iti t .

n o o mmu n o n h o e a red e s I t c i with t s s c h ight , ' O n G o d o r broo d cth a s a l o u d which s gl y c , " e r Which with the vo ice o f v y G od are lo ud .

INDEX

3 . 6 G u r en . 11 de ru o n of. 87 . t Elm. st cti 2 . 9 ( i tl tsch . 74, 8 rd Mo r t . 18 . Enge lha t, i z

54. Erasmus, HAno w. 20 26 . 02 . Rud o vo n. 14. 1 Erlach. lf 66 . Ha ged o rn . m a 75 95 . Everlasti n g Co p ct, , "t l e r 30 . 3 i l , Eu e r, 5 . l Fa 160 . Handeck ll .

Fa mi 7 8 . Hapsb u ly, . 257. FAREL. 8 Hindi Va le 1 . a 272 . ' Fauc l e Co l de l , i l , ( 6 ti llo n 37 Ha u t h . 26 1 2786 . Fe rn ey. , 3 l l e l V e tii, , 4 . r o rn 140 . Fin ste raa h , Mm 98 He mam . .

76 . Flé ere , 24 g n Fe . 18 . He mme rl i . lix 7 6 . Fo a a ro , 1 4 g zz e ro r 153 . He nry Em p . 0 156 . t n . 37, 9 . o n 188 . He rs h e . Si r . 3 c l J h Fra n 1. 17 . cis 0 . r e r e ns o n , 1 1 He t . P i 33 . n s o f m . Sa in . Fra ci A isi t - Esc e r 188 . Hi n d h . 6 3 . Fran ks, 5 . e n 53 55 . 80 . Ho lb i . . u r 10 . 1 14. Fre ib g, d .l . ( l . 87 . Ho llan . r ed 148 . F i li , ra e 28 2 . Ho c . 3 . Furka Pam . 16 v ha r e 20 26 . Hud o n . Re . C . ° s l s 8 1 . 1 0 3 l G eo rge . o r 107 223 . Hugo. Vict , .

bo d 29. Hum l t. 10 . C ALL. Su m , ss o n 54. 506 . Hu . J h , le r 66 . G el t, 7 Lake o f 2 46 . ' e a 10 225 6 00 12 16 . G en v . . Im m ax m . 1 .

3 . evre Mo n . 16 G eni . se in 53 . t l l , 155 . G emm Pass. k 52 1716 . i Ita lian La es. .

r 206 . G essle . 238 234 . n e r Ko nrad , 30 . Ja x ass x . On . . G ess . 9 o ra u e . 5 . bo n 269. e ro m e f g G ib . J P 122 scen a 124 . un ra u . . G iessb ch . J gf A t

Ra ro ad . 143 6 . an o 208 . G io rd . il

G a ru . 10 . l s - an 67. Kcau m. C o r n m . e m 66 . Gl i , 18 . ibu r e r. Eu o as. 83 22 1 223 . K g l gi e 3 1 32 . , . G oe th . .

K e s , 66 . 284 . l i t G o ldsmith . K 3 66 . lo s ock. 1 . 192 6 . p t G o m e r G ra t. i 22 . K . Eu t ch us. 163 . opp y G d sche ne n .

65 . o ru ko w . Ge n era . 1 n 50 5 1 . 154. K l Sa . Go ttha rd . i t.

170 .

Lam n wa acm 3 . so n Ba e o f. 17. G ra nd . ttl La ma r ne . 2 72 . r o n a o . 30 . ti G rasse . J h J c b a. 706 . Lanms tcr Co u n y . P . ane 68 . t G rey. Lady J . Landi Fa m y . 706 . ass 1596 . s il G rimse l P . Land des. S76 . wa d 1446 . sli G ri ndel l . 1 16 . 10 . G riso ns. 190 . 87 . G ru ner. 3 1 . 1 INDEX

Lau en Ba l e of 186 . Mummer 44 47 153 . p , tt . y. . .

Mun r a 30 187. ne 277. te Se as n Lausan . s . b ti . . M Lau e r runn en 1276 . urren 129. t b . , M La a e r 67 . arten Ba t e o f 17. v t , , t l ,

Le Co ur e G eneral 167. b , .

Leo de ar Sa n 80 8 1 . NANCY Ba e o f 18 . g , i t, , , ttl .

Le o o d Duke o f u r a Na o eo n 154 177 178 . p l , A st i , p l , , .

156 . Ne l e i R. L. 23 6 . tt sh p.

Lo arno 171 . Neu a e 10 . c , fch t l ,

Lo n fe o w 56 80 89 164. Ne u au e n 58 . g ll , . , , h s ,

Lo m a rd 5 . N dau Rudo o f 14. b s , i , lf ,

Lu ern e 10 Lake 886 . c , . . ( Eco am anms , 54. an Lake 172 . Lug o , ,

r 4 . O geto rix ,

M GG IO R Lake 1716 . A E , , Pam cms us, 54 . Man Fe li 71 . z , x , ens u 2796 . P , Man o ni 175 . z . enn W l a m 70 . P , il i , Mar nano Ba e o f 178 . ig , ttl , enn an a Ear Swi Set! P sylv i , ly ss Mar i n 2 12 . t g y. l l ers in 1 1 16 . Ma ena G e nera 166 . ss , l , er e u a ac 8 . P p t l P t, Ma e r o rn The 34 44 48 tt h , . , , , err n . 2 18 . fi r cen o f P i st As t , e a o 67. P st l zzi , Ca a ro e o f 2056 . t st ph , e rarc 88 42 . P t h, , Ma ur e Sa in . 80 . ic , t i a u Mo un o n u P l t s, t, P ti s . Mau a Pas 246 247. v is . , n 84 85 . Lege d o f. , Me r n en 156 . i i g , 7 . Platten be rgko pf. 3 6 i 75 . Menagg o , 1 n the Yo un er 175 . Pli y g , Menno ni e 1 1 1 . t s, Poco cke, Dr, 2 186 . Mer de G la e 220 22 1 2456 . c , , , o r e a 175 . P l zz , Me n e Luc 44 . y t, , ren Mrs. El a e 28 1 . P tiss. iz b th, M o W a den an a o r 2846 . ic l ( l si P st ) ,

M n 66 260 285 . to , , , - il o amms 1 11 . Q ,

Mo n ta nve r 245 . t,

Mo n Ba n e n o f RADBOT 6 . t l c, Asc t , ,

den s o n 2356 . Red n Rudo 12 . Acci t , i g, lf,

Mo n o m e r ame 16 no e Re o rma o n in Ztl rich 646 . tg y, J s, ( t ) , f ti .

2526 . Reu ti, 1576 . 03 2096 Mo n tre u 277. Re G u do 48 2 x. y, i . , ,

Mo r ar e n Ba e o f 106 . Rod o e 258 . g t , ttl , lph ,

6 R n 5 1 58 . Mo r e o n 2 7. e l y. J h , hi , ,

Mo r er G en era 167. R o n e 51 G ac er 16 16 . ti , l . h , ; l i ,

M a in C m n R 127. o un t li bi g. igi .

a se 15 16 . Ro e r 89. P s s, g s. Mo un a in Dan er o f 846 Ro u ea u 31 82 259 2666 t s. g s . ss . . , .

Lo e fo r 286 . 2726 v . .

Mllll er Die Bernischem Ta u er Ruden arre r 187. ( f ) , , Pf ,

Rudo Em e ro r 7 8 . lf, p , , 293 INDEX

Rusk n 28 30 42 66 77 125 Théo d ule Sa n 186 . i . , , , . , , , i t,

223 229 T o rwal dsen 76 . , , h .

256 2 62 266 . T un 124. , . h ,

2 1 97. T ur au 10 . , h g .

Tl c mo . 10 , 1726 .

Sw im we ar. 56 .

Sa e e 26 16 . l v ,

Sa a o n rm 158 . lv ti A y,

u u re Ho ra e Ben ed t de T n dal . o n . 84 . 44. 189. 160 , Sa ss , c ic . y l J h 16 1 1946 200 208 2 29 223 187. 189, 22 16 2306 . . ; , , . .

Scha6h a uscn , 666 .

6 e o r vo n 56 . Sche l . Vict , Um. 7, 8 . Scheu chze r. 187.

Un erwa den , 7, 8 . h er 18 56 89 926 . t l Sc ill , , , ,

r 188 . Schle iche . VAM IS, 10 . wa r e n ur 1156 . Sch z b g. au d 10 . V , S w 7 8 . ch yz. , en o u Mon 42 . V t x, t. e r e ander 190 208 . Se il . Al x , , ere u re do 89. V . A b y , Se m er 187. l , Vem ayaz . 2 12 . Se m ac Ba e o f 156 . p h, ttl , n en N o a s 186 . Vi c t. ich l . 54. Se ptimer Pass. 1 re 257. Vi t, us M ae 258 . Serve t . ich l . s o 5 . Vi ig ths, e l e 223 260 26 96 . Sh l y. . , V a e of 182 188 . V ll y . . e r o k Ho mes 156 . Sh l c l , Vfilierwan deru n 5 . g. S Ed wa rd Ro wlan d 8 6 . ill , . o a 176 . V lt , Simo n d 105 106 168 ose . . . ; J ph o a ire 26 1 2786 . V lt . , de 248 . (G u i ) . 52 154 Tun S m o n , , . W meri n o i pl ao m , ' nel . 180 . Wa dens an 71 2836 . l i s. .

So o t u rn 10 . , Al 826 . l h Wen gern p. 1

So u G en e ra 166 . . , “l u e Bo o k o fSa rn en 99. lt l t . S u e n as . 154. r w 44 46 187 pl g P s Wh ympe . Ed ard . . . .

Sta ck e lbcr 94. 2 18 . 235 . Ma me dc S ae , . Wil s Si r l red 190 t l l . A f . S e en Sir Les e 2 26 . 44 45 . . , . , W in k r e d rno d 156 . t ph li el i . A l .

130 132 229 265 . . , , W o r 1 14. b. ' Stu m6 , 187 “vo rd swo rth 30 46 89 177 . . . . .

Su o He n r h v o n 59. s , i ic .

Su te rmeistcr 148 . 7 , W ulpclsbe rg. .

ra 1656 . Su vo ro 6 G e ne . W a W i am 2 186 . . l yn dh m. ill .

Swi e r and 1l s o f 26 . tz l , ,

02 . S mo nds o n dm to n 26 . Zu m m o z x , D uke o f. 1 y . J h A g .

Zel er G er 148 . 27 130 28 9 290 . . u . , , . l y

Zerma 1826 . tt.

0 78 . Tm am o n Ta m sco s . 87. Zu g. 1 .

10 6 16 . Tau walder e er 2 03 . Zitrich . . g . P t .

64 . Te l Wi l am 18 28 926 . Zwin . 6 l . l i . . . gli 2 94