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Ecuador TRIP REPORT TRIP REPORT ECUADOR TRIP REPORT ROGER AND LOUISE MCGOVERN OCTOBER 26 – NOVEMBER 16, 2008 INTRODUCTION In the past four years Louise and I have made birding trips to Costa Rica, Arizona, New Jersey, across the width of Canada, South Africa, Madagascar, Texas and Poland. However, the one major bird region in the world that we had never visited was South America and we decided to make this our destination in late 2008. After sounding out many people with experience of birding in South America, we made the decision to go to Ecuador on our first foray to the continent, based on species diversity, ease of getting around, personal safety, availability of good accommodation, and the mixture of Andean and Amazonian habitats. Our good friends Roger and Carol Skan in the UK had made contact with Xavier Munoz, an owner of the Ecuadorian tour company Neblina Forest (www.neblinaforest.com ), at the British Bird Fair in 2006 and again in 2007. They were sufficiently impressed with Xavier and his operation that the four of us made the decision to use Neblina Forest to organise our birding visit to Ecuador in 2008. After some e-mail exchanges, a 16-day birding itinerary was established based around the high Andean areas and associated lower(western and eastern) slopes in the Quito region, together with a side trip to the Napo Wildlife Center in the Ecuadorian Amazon Basin. With Ecuador’s bird list standing at more than 1600 species, it was clearly not viable to visit all areas and habitats in such a short period of time and the final itinerary was based on seeing good numbers of species as well as experiencing both the high country of the Andean paramo and the equally spectacular Amazonian jungle. In the brochure of Neblina Forest, they state that the average expected number of species seen on our itinerary is between 450 and 500. In the event, my final species count was 538 seen, with many more heard. I use the term “my” because we all had different counts mostly because, during intense bird waves in thick dark rainforest, it is very difficult to see and identify every bird that passes through and we all saw and missed birds that others missed and saw! Of these 538 species, a total of 366 were life birds, which was rather disappointing considering that it was our first trip to South America. However, our previous birding in Costa Rica and Trinidad together with the good numbers of North American migrants led to the lower-than-expected tally of lifers. With such a huge number of birds expected and seen, none of us had any serious wish list birds (with the possible exception of Harpy Eagle, which we didn’t see) and so there were no real missed or seen target species. However, the birds that I particularly remember as special were the pair of low flying Andean Condors in the Antisana Ecological Reserve (the only ones that we saw), a pair of Rufous-bellied Seedsnipes in the impossible high country near Papallacta, and the unforgettable Hoatzins along the black water creek at the Napo Wildlife Center (NWC). Also noteworthy is that we saw 55 species of hummingbirds and 76 species of tanagers but trying to absorb the details of huge numbers of species in a short period of time was extremely difficult. Our itinerary was as follows: October 26, 2008 – departed Sydney and arrived in Quito (thanks to the 16 hour time difference) October 27, 2008 – Louise and I did a little birding in Quito at Parque La Carolina whilst awaiting the arrival of Roger and Carol Skan October 28, 2008 – easy day’s birding at Parque Jerusalen near Quito October 29, 2008 – departed Quito for Mido via Nono and the Tandayapa Valley (overnight at Sacha Tamia Lodge) October 30, 2008 – Milpe Road and Milpe Cloudforest (overnight at Sacha Tamia Lodge) October 31, 2008 – Las Muna Road, Silancha (Mindo Cloud Forest Foundation), Los Bancos and Rio Blanco (overnight at Sacha Tamia Lodge) November 1, 2008 – Birdpeace Refuge (Angel Pax’s antpitta farm), Alambi River and Reserve and then to Quito November 2, 2008 – day trip to the Antisana Ecological Reserve in the high paramo November 3, 2008 – Quito to Coca (by air), canoe trip down the Napo River to the NWC November 4, 2008 – NWC - lodge tower, canopy tower, canoe trip (rained nearly all day) November 5, 2008 – NWC - long morning trail walk, late afternoon walk to canopy tower area November 6, 2008 – NWC - canoe trip to Napo River and the clay licks November 7, 2008 – departed NWC and returned to Quito via Coca November 8, 2008 – Quito to Papallacta (overnight at Termas de Papallacta) November 9, 2008 – Papallacta to Guano Lodge (Papallacta River), the Rio Quijos Valley and San Isidro (overnight at San Isidro Lodge) November 10, 2008 – San Isidro and Antisana Reserve (overnight at San Isidro Lodge) November 11, 2008 – San Isidro to Quito November 12, 2008 – day trip to the Yanacocha Reserve November 13, 2008 – departed Quito on an evening flight November 16, 2008 – arrived home in Sydney We have made many birding trips all over the world and have used many guides, mostly very good ones, but a few somewhat forgettable. Our guide on this trip for the entire duration (other than at NWC) was a young fellow by the name of Alejandro Solano and he rated as probably the best guide that we have ever used. There are many criteria that a guide is measured by, the most important of which is the ability to find and identify birds by sight and by sound and Alejandro excelled in these skills. A good guide also needs to put up with the foibles of his clients in good spirits and not get pressured by the quest for numbers of species and, although our foibles were few, he coped very well with the four of us. In addition, he also had a detailed knowledge of everything else around us including flora, fauna, history and politics but, most of all, he had a wicked sense of humour that kept us all laughing throughout the trip and added immensely to the enjoyment of the experience. Our driver, Alfonso Quinga, was very attentive to our needs and drove with great care throughout despite various hazards including landslips, wet and potholed roads, and the occasional crazy driver. In summary, we highly recommend Neblina Forest as a tour company who will tailor your bird tour in Ecuador (and elsewhere in South America) to your specific requirements. The quality of the accommodation throughout was very good ranging from acceptable to extremely comfortable. Our lodging in Quito was the Hotel Sebastian which was centrally located, comfortable and had very helpful staff. The only downside with the Sebastian is the constant noise of traffic all night but ear plugs solved most of that problem in my case. We all thoroughly enjoyed the food in Ecuador with excellent home-made soups with every meal and beautiful fresh fruits and vegetables always available. Some of us even sampled the national dish of Cuy which is roast guinea pig and which dates back to Inca times. It looks a little strange on the plate having been roasted whole, but the taste was delicious. Prices of most things including petrol seemed to be very reasonable although of course our tour cost covered almost everything. We drank bottled water outside of Quito and none of us experienced any sickness during the trip except for the altitude. Of the four of us, I was the only one to suffer from altitude problems and I have to say that it is not recommended as it detracts from the birding enjoyment! There is a drug (which I took) called Diamox which can be used for faster acclimatisation to altitude, but perhaps the fact that we continually switched between high and low altitudes through the trip did not allow proper adjustment and I was still struggling towards the end of the trip. In the same vein, we all had yellow fever inoculations before we departed for Ecuador and, although Yellow Fever does not seem to occur anywhere that we went, it is sensible to have the jab as you can run the risk of being put into 30 days of quarantine when you get back home if not inoculated. Louise and I commenced taking antibiotics as anti-malarials prior to going to NWC but the manager there assured us that there is no malaria in that part of the Ecuadorian Amazon so we immediately stopped taking them. In summary, we had a fantastic experience in Ecuador from every standpoint and we would strongly recommend it as a birding destination. CHRONOLOGICAL ACCOUNT Sunday 26 October, 2008 We departed from Sydney at 10.45am on Lan Chile flight 800 which stopped in Auckland en route to our destination of Santiago where we arrived at 12.55pm on the same day. While waiting for our connecting flight, we had a look for bird life from the terminal building seeing only house sparrows and feral pigeons at first. Then we caught sight of a smallish raptor which we later identified as a Chimango Caracara, our first and only lifer in Chile! We departed from Santiago at 4.05pm on Lan Ecuador flight 1447 which arrived in Quito at 8.55pm after a short stop in Guayaquil. It had been 30 hours since leaving our home in Cremorne and so we were delighted to be met by an agent and driver from Neblina Forest who escorted us on the fairly short drive (it being a drizzly cold Sunday night) to the Hotel Sebastian.
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