Birding at Playa de Oro 's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding

Rufous-crowned Antpitta

A trip report by Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014

Table of contents (click to page)

Introduction 3 The Chocó 3 The Playa de Oro community 4 The Tigrillo lodge 4 The birding 5 Map 5 When to go? 6 Target 6 1. The lodge garden 8 2. The lodge loop 9 3. The Santiago river 10 4. Sendero Paila 11 5. Sendero Pueblo 13 6. Sendero Santo del Peña to the Mirador 15 7. Sendero Cascada 18 8. Sendero Angostura 18 Other wildlife 19 Bird list 20 Additional list 27

Report published in April 2014 by

Dušan M. Brinkhuizen Casilla Postal 17-07-9345 Quito, Ecuador [email protected]

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 2 Introduction

This is a comprehensive report on the birdlife and birding at Playa de Oro in remote northwest Ecuador. Since we (Mindo Bird Tours) have done over a dozen of trips to this site in recent years, our guide Dušan Brinkhuizen, who has build up a good knowledge of the local avifauna, will share his insights about the birding at Playa de Oro. We continue to promote Playa de Oro to other birdwatchers and hopefully this report will help to do so. The birding is simply superb. The is truly amazing and eco-tourism will directly help to the conservation of this critically threatened area.

The Chocó

The Chocó is an eco-region and biodiversity hotspot that ranges from the Pacific coast of south to Ecuador. It supports the largest number of restricted-range of any Endemic Bird Area in the Americas, with 62 species being endemic to the area. are typically characterized by wet cloud-forests and tropical humid lowland forests. With up to 16,000 mm of rain per year in some places, it is probably the wettest place on earth. Unfortunately, the Chocó region is also one of the most threatened areas in South America. Deforestation rates are accelerating and has been most severe in the Chocó lowlands, especially the coastal plains and foothills.

Playa de Oro is one of the best accessible sites to bird vast Chocó lowland forest. The area is remote but fairly easy to get to and the accommodation facilities are adequate. Another important Chocó lowland reserve in Ecuador is Rio Canandé. This reserve has similar birding as Playa de Oro and also has accommodation for guests (for more information visit

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 3 www.fjocotoco.org). The Awa reserve that borders with Colombia also holds extensive Chocó forest but especially the lower parts are hard to get to and there is no accommodation. Most of the Colombian Chocó is not accessible (at least not without detailed local advice) due to security concerns.

The Playa de Oro community

Playa de Oro is an Afro-Ecuadorian community located along the Santiago river in the province of Esmeraldas, northwest Ecuador (0°52’43”N, 78°47’37”W). It is the last village found upriver and it can only be reached by canoe (unfortunately, there seem to be plans to open up a road in the future). The community land covers c. 10.000 ha and it borders with the Cotacachi-Cayapas National Park. Most of it is covered with pristine Chocó lowland pluvial forest ranging from c. 50m up to about 500m elevation. Playa de Oro is the only community along the Santiago river that has not yet extensively logged its forest. Luckily, members of the community are aware that preserving their forest is important for many reasons. In contrast, other communities have fully exploited and/or sold their land and nearly all of Esmeraldas has been deforested. Most of the original habitat has entirely disappeared and many of it has been transformed into a monopoly of oil palm plantations. Large scale mining is another major threat to the immediate area. At the moment eco- tourism is still a relatively minor income to the community and most people make their living by farming cacao and other agricultural products.

The Tigrillo lodge

The Tigrillo lodge (Campamento Tigrillo) is located on the south bank of the rio Santiago c.25 minutes upstream by canoe from the village of Playa de Oro. Historically, the lodge building was a gold mining camp but it was closed for dubious reasons a long time ago. Currently, the building is owned by the community and run as an eco-lodge.

The wooden two-story building provides basic but comfortable lodging. It has about ten bed rooms and three shared bathrooms. There is no electricity in the rooms but it is possible to charge batteries and other equipment (they have a solar panel and often use a generator in the evenings). The beds are nice and clean and all have mosquito netting. Sufficient drinking water, towels and candles are provided. They have a large dining room and a nice detail is the big sign for $2 cold beer. The food cooked by Mercedes has been rated as delicious and exclusive by most of our clients (good portions too).

Your entire stay has to be coordinated with Julio Arroyo. He is the manager of the lodge and he also navigates the canoe. Domingo and Isahia are local guides that will accompany you on the forest trails. They know the trails well and we recommend that you always bring a local guide with you (included in your stay). During the years they have accompanied many birdwatchers and they are familiar with the practice of birding. However, their knowledge regarding bird identification is minimal. Box lunches and extra canoe rides can be arranged but you will have to let them know in advance. No one at the lodge speaks English so if you travel by yourself you will need to know at least some basic Spanish.

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 4 The birding

Playa de Oro is a must for the keen and adventurous birder. It is among the best Chocó birding that you can experience. However, bear in mind that primary forest birding can be tough, and Playa de Oro is no exception. Finding target species can be difficult and birds are far more often heard than seen. Most of the birding is actually done by ear, so it is advisable to study bird calls in advance. Of course going in with a knowledgeable birdguide will surely increase your chances of tracking down target birds but even then the birding is not easy. Make sure to bring a microphone and playback equipment as certain species can be difficult to see without the use of tape. A telescope is also a necessity. At the riverbank, the lodge and at the viewpoint a scope is needed for distant birds but it is also handy for canopy flocks inside the forest. The canopy is tall and unfortunately they have no canopy tower. Most of the trails are fairly easy but it is better to be in a good shape (it often gets hot and humid). It is muddy in some places, so don’t forget to bring rubber boots. The difficulty of individual trails is described in more detail in the chapters below. This all might sound a little discouraging but the birding at Playa de Oro is spectacular and the stunning forest itself is well worth a trip. A few target species are easiest seen here and you will always run into some good birds. However, do not expect to get all the good stuff in just a single trip.

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 5 When to go?

Birding at Playa de Oro can be done all year round since the majority of birds are resident species (boreal migrants are typically seen from September to April). The song and nesting activity of resident species is highly variable and hard to predict. Typical for the tropics is that birds may nest a few times per year and nesting often coincides with rainfall. At Playa de Oro it seems to be wetter between January and June (perhaps peaking in April-May) with drier periods between July and December. A little rain is often good for bird activity (drought kills activity in the forest) but again too much of rain might interfere a day of birding. In conclusion, there is not really an “optimal” time of year to visit Playa de Oro and weather-wise you largely depend on luck.

Target species

Playa de Oro has a long list of target species. Of course all Chocó lowland endemics are considered as prime targets but some of them are hard to get anywhere. The real key targets at Playa de Oro that should be seen on a trip are Five-colored Barbet, Lita , Stub- tailed Antbird, Ocellated Antbird, Streak-chested Antpitta, Broad-billed Sapayoa, Dagua Thrush, Stripe-throated Wren and Lemon-spectacled . We consider them as key targets since they are often quite easily seen at Playa de Oro, especially if comparing to other sites. Species like Dusky Pigeon, Rose-faced Parrot and Chocó Trogon are common Chocó endemics at Playa de Oro but they can also be seen regularly at other sites. Uniform Crake and Olive-backed Quail-dove are not Chocó endemics but Playa de Oro seems to be the best site in Ecuador for seeing these birds. Baudo , Great Green Macaw and Rufous- crowned Antpitta are rare targets but still Playa de Oro is probably the best place to try for them. Hereunder a more extensive list of potential targets:

Berlepsch's Tinamou Stripe-billed Araçari Plumbeous Hawk Lita Woodpecker Semiplumbeous Hawk Chocó Woodpecker Plumbeous Forest-Falcon Double-banded Greytail Baudo Guan Western Woodhaunter Rufous-fronted Wood-Quail Stub-tailed Antbird Tawny-faced Quail Ocellated Antbird Uniform Crake Rufous-crowned Antpitta Dusky Pigeon Streak-chested Antpitta Indigo-crowned Quail-Dove Chocó Tapaculo Olive-backed Quail-Dove Pacific Flatbill Great Green Macaw Golden-crowned Spadebill Rose-faced Parrot Banded Ground-Cuckoo White-ringed Flycatcher Chocó Screech-Owl Central American Pygmy-Owl Chocó Poorwill Black-tipped Tooth-billed Hummingbird Long-wattled Umbrellabird Purple-chested Hummingbird Red-capped Manakin Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer Green Manakin (ssp. litae) Chocó Trogon Broad-billed Sapayoa Five-colored Barbet Dagua Thrush

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 6 Stripe-throated Wren Grey-and-gold Tanager Slate-throated Gnatcatcher Blue-whiskered Tanager Scarlet-thighed Dacnis Golden-chested Tanager Scarlet-breasted Dacnis Lemon-spectacled Tanager Scarlet-and-white Tanager Chestnut-headed Oropendola

At the end of each chapter we included a box with species that can be/have been seen along the trails. Of course this is only a selection of interesting species to look for and you will surely encounter other species as well. The habitat is mostly continuous, so rare birds could show up at almost any site. For example, we have seen the Rufous-crowned Antpitta along a few different trails but actually never at the same site, which suggest that they move around. Other species like Red-capped Manakin, are more site-faithful, especially at their lekking grounds. Birds that are considered as “Common” are usually recorded along that trail. However, bear in mind that a species might be common by ear but not by sight. A species can also be considered locally common because of the viewing conditions. For example, Black-tipped Cotinga is described as common at the viewpoint (Mirador). The species is obviously more widespread in the area but at the viewpoint we always see a male or two, mainly because you can scan the forest canopy. Species that are considered “Frequent” have been recorded a couple of times along that trail, but not on every visit. “Rare” birds are only seen once or twice along that trail and you will need a lot of luck to run into them.

Broad-billed Sapayoa

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 7 1. The lodge garden

The lodge garden is a good place to look for secondary forest birds, migrants and species that prefer forest edge and riparian habitats. Many of these are rather common and widespread species but they can be hard to find inside primary forest. It is often birdy around the lodge and there is always the chance to run into surprises. Although most of the key species at Playa de Oro are found inside the forest it is worth spending some time around the garden, especially if it is your first visit. The second floor balcony is a perfect dry spot for scoping and scanning the canopy while it is raining. The forest edge often has canopy flocks with Scarlet-breasted Dacnis, Scarlet-thighed Dacnis, Grey-and-gold Tanager, Blue-whiskered Tanager, Griscom’s Antwren and Slate-throated Gnatcatcher, but you will need to frequently scan for activity (have a scope handy) and you’ll need some luck too. Lita Woodpecker has been seen a few times together with mixed-species flocks in the garden. In the past a nice fruiting tree with small berries has attracted many into the garden but unfortunately this tree has fallen down. The Cecropia trees still attract plenty of tanagers and other species including Orange-fronted Barbet and Stripe-billed Aracari. Species that are commonly seen in the garden include Long-tailed Tyrant, Black-cheeked Woodpecker, Lemon-rumped Tanager, Blue-grey Tanager, Golden-hooded Tanager, Yellow-margined Flatbill, Rusty-margined and Grey-capped Flycatcher. There is also a resident pair of Rufous- tailed Jacamar in the garden but they can be difficult to see. The dense secondary growth and fine tangles are home to species like Dusky Antbird, Pacific Antwren, Bay Wren and White- bearded Manakin. Sometimes you can hear Stub-tailed Antbird right from the lodge. Rose- faced Parrot and Mealy Amazon are regular fly-overs which can be hard to see from inside the forest.

Scarlet-breasted Dacnis

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 8 Common: Dusky Antbird, Pacific Antwren, Western Slaty Antshrike, Bay Wren, Black-headed Tody-flycatcher, Yellow-margined Flatbill, Chocó Tyrannulet, Grey-capped Flycatcher, Rusty- margined Flycatcher, White-winged Becard, One-colored Becard, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Long- tailed Tyrant, Dusky Pigeon, Pauraque, Purple-crowned Fairy, Purple-chested Hummingbird, White-whiskered Hermit, Black-cheeked Woodpecker, White-bearded Manakin, Lesser Greenlet, Yellow-tufted Dacnis, Golden-hooded Tanager, Bay-headed Tanager, Lemon-rumped Tanager, Buff-rumped Warbler, Bronze-winged Parrot.

Frequent: Griscom’s Antwren, Stub-tailed Antbird, Scarlet-breasted Dacnis, Scarlet-thighed Dacnis, Grey-and-gold Tanager, Blue-whiskered Tanager, Rufous-winged Tanager, Fulvous- vented Euphonia, Slate-throated Gnatcatcher, Orange-fronted Barbet, Stripe-billed Aracari, Lita Woodpecker, Red-rumped Woodpecker, Guayaquil Woodpecker, Olivaceous Piculet, Snowy- throated Kingbird, Rose-faced Parrot, Mealy Amazon, Pallid Dove.

Rare: Great Green Macaw, Red-billed Scythebill, Chestnut-headed Oropendula, Slaty Becard.

2. The lodge loop

The lodge loop is a short circular trail that loops around the lodge. It connects with two of the main forest trails (Paila and Pueblo trail). Julio has opened up another short loop trail behind the lodge (in Nov 2013) but we haven’t explored it much. The lodge loop is very short (c. 15 min) but it can be rewarding. It is a flat and easy trail but muddy at some places. Understory flocks are fairly regular along the loop. These are usually small flocks but sometimes you get lucky with a bigger one. In this case, look for species like Broad-billed Sapayoa (often together with Tawny-crowned Greenlet, which can serve as an indicator species) and Pacific Flatbill. Birds that are frequently heard along the loop are Black-headed Antthrush, Stub-tailed Antbird, White-whiskered Puffbird and Stripe-throated Wren. These species are usually responsive to tape. Streak-chested Antpitta also has a territory here but they vocalize more seasonally and it can be hard to see. The same holds for Berlepsch's Tinamou and Uniform Crake. A pair of Olive-backed Quail-dove used to be regular on the lodge loop but we haven’t seen them here in recent visits and they may have moved to another nesting site. A territorial Five-colored Barbet was recently seen in a canopy flock along the loop. At night you might get lucky with a Chocó Screech-owl which prefers the dense tangle. Spectacled Owls are also around. Chocó Poorwill is regularly heard on the lodge loop but it can be difficult to locate with the spotlight.

Common: Tawny-crested Tanager, Western Woodhaunter, Spot-crowned Antvireo, Checker- throated Antwren, Griscom’s Antwren, White-flanked Antwren, Stub-tailed Antbird, Chestnut- backed Antbird, Spotted Antbird, Black-headed Antthrush, Tawny-faced Gnatwren, Stripe- throated Wren, Dusky Pigeon.

Frequent: Berlepsch's Tinamou, Streak-chested Antpitta, Broad-billed Sapayoa, Tawny-crowned Greenlet, Pacific Flatbill, Olive-backed Quail-dove, Uniform Crake, Lita Woodpecker, Chocó Poorwill, Chocó Screech-Owl.

Rare: Baudo Guan, Five-colored Barbet.

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 9 3. The Santiago river

The Santiago river is a nice place at the lodge to look for larger canopy birds, fly-overs and river species. A good tactic is to sit down at the cement steps and scan around with a telescope. Both Chocó and Chestnut-mandibled Toucan are regularly seen in the tree tops, as well as Stripe-billed Aracari. Laughing Falcon and Roadside Hawk are often perched in the canopy opposite the river. Snowy-throated Kingbird also likes the riparian river-edge habitat. If you are lucky you might scope a Black-tipped Cotinga. Scan the sky for raptors with Turkey Vulture, Swallow-tailed Kite and Plumebous Kite being the common species to expect. Sometimes other raptors soar by like Grey-headed Kite, Short-tailed Hawk, Black Hawk-eagle and King Vulture. Bronze-winged Parrots are the most common parrots that fly over but Mealy Amazon, Blue-headed Parrot and Rose-faced Parrot can be regular flybys too. The rare Great Green Macaw has been seen a few times from the steps. The common river birds are Neotropical Cormorant, Snowy Egret and Spotted Sandpiper. Osprey, Little Blue Heron and Cocoi Heron are also seen frequently along the river. Buff-rumped Warblers often forage on the river banks and both Green and Ringed Kingfisher are commonly seen. Late afternoon is good to check for Chestnut-headed Oropendula that often flies by in flocks (usually large flocks) to their night roost. Band-rumped Swifts are the common swifts seen above the river but often multiple species are present, especially in the afternoon. We have both seen Short-tailed and Lesser Nighthawk at dusk.

Chestnut-mandibled Toucan

There is a small trail in the forest behind the lodge that goes to what they call the “Playa”, a dry and rocky sidearm of the river with a lot of riparian habitat. This is where they often pan for gold with tourists. You can usually walk the dry riverbed but sometimes the place is flooded. The scrub here is a good place to look for Pallid Dove, Thick-billed Seed-finch,

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 10 Variable Seedeater, Pacific Antwren, Great Antshrike, Snowy-throated Kingbird, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet, Slaty Spinetail, Black-striped Sparrow and Striped Cuckoo. At some small pools we have observed American Pygmy Kingfisher. Fruiting Cecropia trees have attracted a number of tanagers including Grey-and-Gold, Rufous-winged and Blue- whiskered Tanager. Slaty Becard has also been seen here.

During the canoe ride from Selva Alegre to the lodge (and back) one should always be on the lookout for birds. Julio is more than happy to stop the canoe in case you see something interesting.

Common: Neotropic Cormorant, Snowy Egret, Striated Heron, Swallow-tailed Kite, Plumbeous Kite, Laughing Falcon, Spotted Sandpiper, Pallid Dove, Blue-headed Parrot, Bronze-winged Parrot, Mealy Amazon, Smooth-billed Ani, Striped Cuckoo, Band-rumped Swift, Ringed Kingfisher, Green Kingfisher, Stripe-billed Araçari, Chocó Toucan, Chestnut-mandibled Toucan, Lineated Woodpecker, Black-cheeked Woodpecker, Slaty Spinetail, Great Antshrike, Pacific Antwren, Southern Beardless Tyrannulet , Snowy-throated Kingbird, Cinnamon Becard, White-bearded Manakin, Buff-rumped Warbler, Yellow-tufted Dacnis, Blue-necked Tanager, Black-striped Sparrow.

Frequent: Grey-headed Kite, Black Hawk-Eagle, Rose-faced Parrot, Orange-fronted Barbet, Black- tipped Cotinga, Scarlet-thighed Dacnis, Grey-and-gold Tanager, Blue-whiskered Tanager, Chestnut-headed Oropendola.

Rare: King Vulture, Great Green Macaw, Short-tailed Nighthawk, Lesser Nighthawk, American Pygmy Kingfisher, Slaty Becard.

4. Sendero Paila

The Paila trail is perhaps the best and easiest trail for primary forest birding near the lodge. It starts from the lodge loop (take left at the junction with Pueblo trail). You could easily spend a full morning birding on this trail. It is a couple of kilometers long and about an hour steady walking (not birding) one way. Most of it is flat and we would rate it as a fairly easy trail. A rocky river crossing is probably the most uneasy stretch of the trail. Paila trail runs parallel to the Santiago river and most of it is terrafirme. Only the last stretch is riparian habitat where the trail eventually reaches the river. Here Julio could pick you up with the canoe but you will have to let him know in advance. The trail has been named after a large metal bucket that gold miners have used in the past. The “paila” itself can be found near the end of the trail right before getting down into riparian habitat.

Broad-billed Sapayoa is fairly common in understory mixed-species flocks. When you run into a flock best is to listen for their soft but typical call. They usually perch at mid-levels and often in pairs. Other regular flock members include Tawny-crowned Greenlet, Western Woodhaunter, Spotted Woodcreeper, Spot-crowned Antvireo, Checker-throated Antwren, White-flanked Antwren, Tawny-faced Gnatwren, Stripe-throated Wren and Lemon- spectacled Tanager. The Lemon-spectacled Tanager is often noisy and they usually respond to tape. Large mixed-flocks can have additional species like Pacific Flatbill, Lita Woodpecker

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 11 and Black-striped Woodcreeper. Unfortunately, canopy flocks are relatively hard to observe on Paila trail. Five-colored Barbet has been seen in these flocks, as well as a number of interesting tanager species. Brown-capped Tyrannulet, Grey Elaenia and Cinnamon Woodpecker are common by voice in canopy flocks. Tawny-crested Tanagers are common understory birds and they often pass by in large mono-specific flocks. Also Dagua Thrush and Blue-crowned Manakin are frequently seen along the trail. The latter seems to have a lek in the first few hundred meters. Common hummingbirds seen inside the forest are White- whiskered Hermit, Green-crowned Woodnymph and Purple-chested Hummingbird. Tooth- billed Hummingbird and Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer are rare. The trail is good for antbirds though we have not had any antswarms here. Spotted Antbird, Chestnut-backed Antbird, Stub-tailed Antbird and Bicolored Antbird are fairly common. The spectacular Ocellated Antbird has been seen a few times along this trail too. Once we observed a male Rufous- crowned Antpitta along the first stretch of trail (about 10 min from the lodge). After about 20 minutes walking from the lodge you will have to cross a rocky river. This area is good for Uniform Crake and it usually responds to the tape. Recently, Olive-backed Quail-Dove had a nest just past the river. Berlepsch's Tinamou has been heard many times along Paila and seems to be fairly common. However, it is a difficult species to see. We had Tawny-faced Quail twice. We have also seen both Baudo Guan and Crested Guan a couple of times. Crested Guan is typically more shy and usually flies off early, often making a lot of noise. In contrast, Baudo Guan often tries to sneak away in the canopy and they hardly make any sound. The last stretch of riparian forest is good for species like Pallid Dove and White- tipped Sicklebill. The sicklebill has possibly a small lek just where the trail starts to drop down. Also try here for Uniform Crake at a small stream.

Rose-faced Parrot

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 12 Common: Berlepsch's Tinamou (by voice), Dusky Pigeon, Pallid Dove, White-whiskered Hermit, Green-crowned Woodnymph, Purple-chested Hummingbird, Chocó Trogon, Western White-tailed Trogon, Stripe-billed Araçari, Chocó Toucan, Chestnut-mandibled Toucan, Cinnamon Woodpecker, Western Woodhaunter, Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, Black-striped Woodcreeper, Spotted Woodcreeper, Western Slaty-Antshrike, Spot-crowned Antvireo, Checker-throated Antwren, White-flanked Antwren, Dot-winged Antwren, Spotted Antbird, Chestnut-backed Antbird, Stub-tailed Antbird, Bicolored Antbird, Black-headed Antthrush, Grey Elaenia, Black- capped Pygmy-Tyrant, Blue-crowned Manakin, Broad-billed Sapayoa, Tawny-crowned Greenlet, Dagua Thrush, Stripe-throated Wren, White-breasted Wood-Wren, Southern Nightingale-Wren, Tawny-faced Gnatwren, Lemon-spectacled Tanager, Tawny-crested Tanager.

Frequent: Rufous-fronted Wood-Quail, Uniform Crake, Olive-backed Quail-Dove, Ruddy Quail- Dove, Rose-faced Parrot, White-tipped Sicklebill, Lita Woodpecker, Northern Barred- Woodcreeper, Ocellated Antbird, Streak-chested Antpitta, Pacific Flatbill, Golden-crowned Spadebill, Rufous Mourner, White-ringed Flycatcher, Red-capped Manakin.

Rare: Baudó Guan, Crested Guan, Tawny-faced Quail, Tooth-billed Hummingbird, Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer, Barred Puffbird, Five-colored Barbet, Rufous-crowned Antpitta.

5. Sendero Pueblo

The Pueblo (village) trail connects the Tigrillo lodge with the village of Playa de Oro. The habitat is similar to Paila but the trail is longer and more strenuous. It will take you at least 2.5 hours walking (not birding) to get to the village. The very first stretch (starting from the lodge) is flat but soon you will have to start climbing as it gets more hilly. There are a few good climbs that you have to make but overall most of the trail is on a plateau and thus fairly level. We would rate this trail as moderate, especially because it is a long hike. In case you want to bird the entire trail, it is best to have Julio bring you to the village by canoe. From the village you bird your way back and usually you arrive at the lodge just in time for lunch. At the village you will have to walk through agricultural fields and Baudo Guan

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 13 secondary habitat for about 30 minutes before you get to the edge of the forest. From here it is all awesome terrafirme forest all the way back to the lodge.

The birding is very similar to Paila trail. Pueblo trail is perhaps slightly more exciting because you cover more distance and more habitat. The understory and canopy flocks are composed of the same species and targets like Broad-billed Sapayoa and Lemon-spectacled Tanager are also fairly common. Antbirds are regular along the trail and we have seen them attending antswarms on a few occasions. Banded Ground-cuckoo has been reported once from this trail by others. We saw a male Rufous-crowned Antpitta on top of the first hill coming from the lodge, although we have never seen this species following ants. At the top of the second hill we always see displaying Red-capped Manakins. Other species that seem to be frequent along this trail are Song Wren, Green Manakin (ssp. litae, a possible Chocó split) and Buff- throated Foliage-gleaner. Rufous Mourner and Rufous Piha are frequently heard and both species often come in to tape. White- ringed Flycatcher often follows the larger canopy flocks and is usually first noticed by its distinct call. Chocó Woodpecker has also been reported from this trail. Once we saw a Central-American Pygmy-owl halfway Pueblo trail Lita Woodpecker but this is a rare bird at Playa de Oro.

Common: Red-capped Manakin, Western White-tailed Trogon, Dusky Pigeon, Tawny-crested Tanager, Western Woodhaunter, Black-striped Woodcreeper, Spot-crowned Antvireo, Checker- throated Antwren, White-flanked Antwren, Tawny-faced Gnatwren, Chestnut-backed Antbird, Spotted Antbird, Stub-tailed Antbird, Bicolored Antbird, Broad-billed Sapayoa, Tawny-crowned Greenlet, Cinnamon Woodpecker, Dagua Thrush, Stripe-throated Wren, White-breasted Wood- wren, Southern Nightingale-Wren.

Frequent: Song Wren, Chocó Trogon, Black-throated Trogon, Lemon-spectacled Tanager, Lita Woodpecker, Guayaquil Woodpecker, Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner, Slaty-capped Shrike Vireo, Ocellated Antbird, Golden-crowned Spadebill, Rufous Mourner, Rufous Piha, White-ringed Flycatcher, Green Manakin.

Rare: Tooth-billed Hummingbird, Chocó Woodpecker, Five-colored Barbet, Central-American Pygmy-owl, Rufous-crowned Antpitta, Banded Ground-cuckoo.

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 14

6. Sendero Santo del Peña to the Mirador

The Santo del Peña trail that goes to the Mirador (viewpoint) is probably the best and most diverse birding trail at Playa de Oro. The trail starts in front of the lodge, on the opposite side of the river, so you will have to take a canoe to get across. The first stretch goes through riparian forest but soon the trail starts to climb up into terrafirme. The Mirador is quite a long hike but it is definitely worth going to. After passing the Mirador, the trail connects with the Cascada trail and drops down to the river (where you will have to arrange to be picked up by Julio). This one way route is a long hike so bring a box lunch if you go to the Mirador. We actually prefer to do this route the other way around and have Julio bring us to the start of the Cascada trail in the early morning. In this case, during the first 45 minutes you will have a few steep climbs up (but easily doable in the early morning when it is still cool) before you get to the junction of the Mirador (left) and Cascada trail (right). At the junction you have reached the plateau and it is a long but steady hike back down to the lodge. The plateau is nice and level for most of the time and the trail goes through spectacular primary forest. Starting from Cascada trail and birding back slowly has been rated by most of our clients as moderately easy (a long hike but pleasant birding, going down steadily).

The riparian forest in front of the lodge is probably the best place to look for Streak-chested Antpitta and Uniform Crake. To see these species, it is best to either plan this habitat in the early morning or late afternoon (also depending on where you would start the route). Species like White- whiskered Puffbird, Blue-black Grosbeak and Rufous Motmot also Five-colored Barbet seem to be quite regular here.

The start of the Cascada trail has a few steep climbs but this stretch has often produced good birds in the early morning. A mixed-species flock with Broad-billed Sapayoa has been regular here. Olive-backed Quail-dove has also been seen frequently at the start of the trail. The steep climb just before you reach the plateau (junction) has a Red-capped Manakin lek, so listen for their call. At the plateau you will notice some tremendous trees and spectacular primary forest with (often) open understory. The birding here is exciting but it is often a lottery (like anywhere at Playa de Oro). Right at the junction we have photographed a juvenile Slaty-backed Forest-falcon (confirming its occurrence in the west). Here we have also seen Long-wattled Umbrellabird and Baudo Guan foraging together in the same fruiting tree.

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 15

The Mirador is about 30 minutes from the junction (take the trail to the left). It is a good idea to spent some time at the Mirador because this is the best viewpoint for canopy flocks and flyby species. Make sure to bring a telescope because many of them will be seen in the distance. Tanager species like Scarlet-browed Tanager, Scarlet-and-white Tanager, Scarlet- breasted Dacnis, Scarlet-thighed Dacnis, Emerald Tanager, Blue-whiskered Tanager and Grey-and-gold Tanager are often in the fruiting trees at the viewpoint. If a canopy flock moves by also look (or play) for Five-colored Barbet, which is usually in the flock. Other regular flock members are Slate-throated Gnatcatcher, Griscom’s Antwren, Yellow-margined Flatbill, Grey-mantled Wren, Brown-capped Tyrannulet, Grey Elaenia and White-ringed Flycatcher. Only once we saw Double-banded Greytail in the flock. Don't forget to scan the forest canopy on the other side of the river for Black-tipped Cotinga. A male or two often perch on top of the canopy and they are usually easy to find. Toucans are also frequently seen in the canopy. Also scan the sky as we have often seen Ornate Hawk-eagle and other raptors from the Mirador. Once we had great looks at an adult Black-and-white Hawk-eagle. This is perhaps also the best place to look for flyby Rose-faced Parrots and if you get lucky Great Green Macaws. We have heard Chocó Tapaculo below the viewpoint and Rufous- crowned Antpitta has been seen in the forest very near the viewpoint.

Scarlet-and-white Tanager

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 16 From the Mirador it is a long but pleasant hike back to the lodge (c. 1.5 hours if not birding). The canopy flocks often hold Lita Woodpecker and Five-colored Barbet. We have seen Golden-chested Tanager in the flocks but it is hard to find here (better chances at Angostura). Always carefully listen for its distinct call. With some luck you can see Berlepsch's Tinamou and Indigo-crowned Quail-dove on the trail. We also saw Baudo and Crested Guans a few times along this route. Long-wattled Umbrellabird and Plumbeous Hawk seem to be frequent along this trail. The rare Banded Ground-cuckoo has also been reported along this trail.

Common: Streak-chested Antpitta (first stretch-only), Black-tipped Cotinga (Mirador), Five- colored Barbet, Scarlet-browed Tanager, Scarlet-and-white Tanager, Scarlet-breasted Dacnis, Scarlet-thighed Dacnis, Grey-and-gold Tanager, Slate-throated Gnatcatcher, Lesser Greenlet, Purple Honeycreeper, Brown-capped Tyrannulet, Tawny-crested Tanager, Western Woodhaunter, Black-striped Woodcreeper, Spot-crowned Antvireo, Checker-throated Antwren, White-flanked Antwren, Chestnut-backed Antbird, Spotted Antbird, Bicolored Antbird, Cinnamon Woodpecker, Rufous Piha, Tawny-faced Gnatwren, Stripe-throated Wren, White-breasted Wood-wren, Southern Nightingale-Wren, Chocó Toucan, Chestnut-mandibled Toucan.

Frequent: Berlepsch's Tinamou, Long-wattled Umbrellabird, Lanceolated Monklet, Ocellated Antbird, Broad-billed Sapayoa, Green Manakin, White-ringed Flycatcher, Tawny-crowned Greenlet, Lemon-spectacled Tanager, Rose-faced Parrot, Great Green Macaw, Emerald Tanager, Blue-whiskered Tanager, Plumbeous Hawk, Ornate Hawk-eagle, Black Hawk-eagle, King Vulture.

Rare: Baudo Guan, Rufous-crowned Antpitta, Black-and-White Hawk-eagle, Slaty-backed Forest- falcon, Indigo-crowned Quail-dove, Golden-chested Tanager, Great Jacamar, Double-banded Greytail, Chocó Tapaculo, Scaly-throated Leaftosser, Northern Tufted Flycatcher, Speckled Mourner.

Olive-backed Quail-dove

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 17 7. Sendero Cascada

The habitat along the Cascada (waterfall) trail is very similar to the upper Santo del Peña trail and both trails are often combined when going to the Mirador (at the junction take the right). The first stretch after the junction is level and very pleasant birding. After a while the trail becomes more hilly and going to the waterfall is actually a little strenuous (we usually don't go this far). The birding along the trail is very similar to the previous trail and the same species can be expected. The canopy flocks hold good birds but are much harder to view. Broad-billed Sapayoa is also frequent in the understory flocks here. We have seen quite a few army antswarms along this trail often with the full set of antbirds attending the swarm. Domingo told us that he has once seen Great Curassow (Paujil) along this trail.

Common: Tawny-crested Tanager, Western Woodhaunter, Black-striped Woodcreeper, Spot- crowned Antvireo, Checker-throated Antwren, White-flanked Antwren, Chestnut-backed Antbird, Spotted Antbird, Bicolored Antbird, Black-headed Antthrush, Stripe-throated Wren, Tawny-faced Gnatwren, White-breasted Wood-wren, Southern Nightingale-Wren.

Frequent: Berlepsch's Tinamou, Ocellated Antbird, Broad-billed Sapayoa, Rose-faced Parrot, Chocó Trogon, Lemon-spectacled Tanager, Lita Woodpecker, Rufous Piha.

Rare: Baudo Guan, Rufous-crowned Antpitta, Indigo-crowned Quail-dove, Golden-chested Tanager.

8. Sendero Angostura

The Angostura trail is probably your best bet for Golden-chested Tanager and the rare Brown-headed -monkey. On all our visits we have seen them here. However, it is the most strenuous trail and for this reason we only went up twice with clients. We would rate it as a difficult trail because it has a lot of climbing. For the fit and adventurous birder it is certainly worth going up Angostura and all the rare specialties can be expected here. As far as we know Rufous-crowned Antpitta has not yet been recorded here but the habitat looks perfect for it. The habitat is true wilderness and the birding is exciting. It is also a place where you might see a few higher elevation species. For example, we have seen Club-winged Manakin here. The forest is mostly terrafirme and at a certain point the trail follows a ridge steadily up. After a few hours you will get to a viewpoint that might produce some interesting birds (when we were there it was sunny and hot). We have had Great Green Macaws on both occasions and according to Julio the macaws are most frequent at Angostura. The Golden-chested Tanager was seen both times on the higher section of the trail. Once we lucked into a nest of a Chocó Poorwill.

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 18 Common: Tawny-crested Tanager, Western Woodhaunter, Black-striped Woodcreeper, Spot- crowned Antvireo, Checker-throated Antwren, White-flanked Antwren, Chestnut-backed Antbird, Stripe-throated Wren, White-breasted Wood-wren, Southern Nightingale-Wren.

Frequent: Golden-chested Tanager, Scarlet-and-white Tanager, Great Green Macaw, Broad-billed Sapayoa, Lemon-spectacled Tanager.

Rare: Chocó Poorwill, Semiplumbeous Hawk, Club-winged Manakin.

Other wildlife

The Critically Endangered Brown-headed Spider-monkey is one of the rarest mammals at Playa de Oro. The area of Angostura trail is the best place to look for them and seems to hold a large group. We have also seen the species along Paila and Pueblo trail. White-headed Capuchins are the more commonly seen primates at Playa de Oro and Mantled Howler Monkeys are frequently heard. Once we saw a Southern Tamandua at the start of Cascada trail. Neotropical River Otter is rarely seen at the Santiago river. Tracks of large cats are commonly encountered at Playa de Oro. We have found both Jaguar and Puma tracks near the Mirador and on the Paila trail. Recently, we also saw fresh Puma tracks on the lodge loop. A recent camera trap study has also revealed the presence of both large cats, with Jaguar being the rarest. According to the staff an Ocelot (Tigrillo) seems to hang around the lodge area but it is very difficult to observe. In the past the lodge was used as a rehabilitation center for small wild cats like Ocelots (hence the name Tigrillo Lodge) and they have successfully released them back into the wild. Snakes are rarely seen but the venomous Fer- de-lance (Equis) are around and we did run into them a couple of times. We have not seen the Chochoan Bushmaster (Verrugosa de Chocó) but according to Domingo they are actually fairly regular at Playa de Oro (but they are usually only active at night).

Golden-chested Tanager

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 19 Bird list

This list shows all the bird species that have been seen during our trips to Playa de Oro. The numbers try to give an indication of the species' rarity. Bear in mind that many of the species are far more often heard than seen. For example, Rose-faced Parrot is a common to fairly common bird at Playa de Oro. You hear them flying over on a daily basis. However, getting a good look at them is not easy.

Legend: 1 = Common; recorded almost daily during a trip 2 = Fairly common; often recorded a couple of times during a trip 3 = Uncommon; often recorded during a trip but not always 4 = Rare; infrequently recorded on trips 5 = Very rare; recorded only once or twice

2 Great Tinamou Tinamus major 3 Berlepsch's Tinamou Crypturellus berlepschi 1 Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui 1 Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus 4 Fasciated Tiger-Heron Tigrisoma fasciatum 3 Great Egret Ardea alba 1 Snowy Egret Egretta thula 3 Little Blue Heron Egretta 3 Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 2 Striated Heron Butorides striatus 3 King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa 2 Black Vulture Coragyps atratus 1 Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura 2 Osprey Pandion haliaetus 3 Gray-headed Kite Leptodon cayanensis 1 Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus 2 Double-toothed Kite Harpagus bidentatus 1 Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea 4 Tiny Hawk Accipiter superciliosus 4 Bicolored Hawk Accipiter bicolor 3 Plumbeous Hawk Leucopternis plumbea 4 Semiplumbeous Hawk Leucopternis semiplumbea 4 Barred Hawk Leucopternis princeps 1 Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris 3 Short-tailed Hawk Buteo brachyurus 4 Black-and-White Hawk-Eagle Spizastur melanoleucus 3 Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus 3 Ornate Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus ornatus 4 Barred Forest-Falcon Micrastur ruficollis 4 Plumbeous Forest-Falcon Micrastur plumbeus

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 20 5 Slaty-backed Forest-Falcon Micrastur mirandollei 2 Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans 3 Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis 4 Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus 4 Rufous-headed Chachalaca Ortalis erythroptera 4 Baudó Guan ortoni 4 Crested Guan Penelope purpurascens 3 Rufous-fronted Wood-Quail Odontophorus erythrops 4 Tawny-faced Quail Rhynchortyx cinctus 2 White-throated Crake Laterallus albigularis 3 Uniform Crake Amaurolimnas concolor 1 Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularia 3 Scaled Pigeon Columba speciosa 1 Ruddy Pigeon Columba subvinacea 1 Dusky Pigeon Columba goodsoni 2 Pallid Dove pallida 4 Indigo-crowned Quail-Dove Geotrygon purpurata 3 Olive-backed Quail-Dove Geotrygon veraguensis 3 Ruddy Quail-Dove Geotrygon montana 3 Great Green Macaw Ara ambiguus 2 Maroon-tailed Parakeet Pyrrhura melanura 4 Blue-fronted Parrotlet Touit dilectissima 2 Rose-faced Parrot Pionopsitta pulchra 2 Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus 1 Bronze-winged Parrot Pionus chalcopterus 3 Red-lored Amazon Amazona autumnalis 2 Mealy Amazon Amazona farinosa 2 Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana 4 Little Cuckoo Piaya minuta 2 Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani 3 Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia 3 Chocó Screech-Owl Otus centralis 5 Central American Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium griseiceps 4 Crested Owl Lophostrix cristata 3 Spectacled Owl Pulsatrix perspicillata 3 Mottled Owl Strix virgata 3 Common Potoo Nyctibius griseus 1 Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis 3 Chocó Poorwill Nyctiphrynus rosenbergi 4 Short-tailed Nighthawk Lurocalis semitorquatus 4 Lesser Nighthhawk Chordeiles acutipennis 1 White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris 2 Chestnut-collared Swift Cypseloides rutilus 1 Band-rumped Swift Chaetura spinicauda

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 21 3 Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift Panyptila cayennensis 3 Bronzy Hermit Glaucis aenea 2 Band-tailed Barbthroat Threnetes ruckeri 1 White-whiskered Hermit Phaethornis yaruqui 3 Stripe-throated Hermit Phaethornis striigularis 3 White-tipped Sicklebill Eutoxeres aquila 3 Tooth-billed Hummingbird Androdon aequatorialis 2 White-necked Jacobin Florisuga mellivora 3 Green Thorntail Popelairia conversii 2 Green-crowned Woodnymph Thalurania fannyi 1 Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl 2 Purple-chested Hummingbird Amazilia rosenbergi 4 Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer Chalybura urochrysia 1 Purple-crowned Fairy Heliothryx barroti 2 Chocó Trogon Trogon comptus 1 Western White-tailed Trogon Trogon chionurus 2 Collared Trogon Trogon collaris 3 Black-throated Trogon Trogon rufus 2 Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata 2 Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana 4 American Pygmy Kingfisher Chloroceryle aenea 2 Broad-billed Motmot Electron platyrhynchum 2 Rufous Motmot Baryphthengus martii 1 Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda 4 Great Jacamar Jacamerops aureus 4 White-necked Puffbird Notharchus macrorhynchos 4 Barred Puffbird Nystalus radiatus 2 White-whiskered Puffbird Malacoptila panamensis 3 Lanceolated Monklet Micromonacha lanceolata 3 Orange-fronted Barbet Capito squamatus 3 Five-colored Barbet Capito quinticolor 4 Crimson-rumped Toucanet Aulacorhynchus haematopygus 2 Stripe-billed Araçari Pteroglossus sanguineus 1 Chocó Toucan Ramphastos brevis 1 Chestnut-mandibled Toucan Ramphastos swainsonii 3 Olivaceous Piculet Picumnus olivaceus 2 Lita Woodpecker Piculus litae 1 Cinnamon Woodpecker Celeus loricatus 2 Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus 1 Black-cheeked Woodpecker Melanerpes pucherani 2 Red-rumped Woodpecker Veniliornis kirkii 4 Scarlet-backed Woodpecker Veniliornis callonotus 2 Guayaquil Woodpecker Campephilus gayaquilensis 4 Crimson-bellied Woodpecker Campephilus haematogaster

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 22 2 Slaty Spinetail Synallaxis brachyura 3 Red-faced Spinetail Cranioleuca erythrops 5 Double-banded Graytail Xenerpestes minlosi 1 Western Woodhaunter Hyloctistes virgatus 3 Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner Automolus ochrolaemus 3 Ruddy Foliage-gleaner Automolus rubiginosus 2 Plain Xenops Xenops minutus 4 Tawny-throated Leaftosser Sclerurus mexicanus 4 Scaly-throated Leaftosser Sclerurus guatemalensis 2 Plain-brown Woodcreeper Dendrocincla fuliginosa 1 Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Glyphorynchus spirurus 3 Northern Barred-Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes sanctithomae 2 Black-striped Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus lachrymosus 2 Spotted Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus erythropygius 2 Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii 3 Red-billed Scythebill Campylorhamphus trochilirostris 3 Fasciated Antshrike Cymbilaimus lineatus 3 Great Antshrike Taraba major 2 Western Slaty-Antshrike Thamnophilus atrinucha 3 Russet Antshrike Thamnistes anabatinus 2 Spot-crowned Antvireo Dysithamnus puncticeps 2 Griscom’s Antwren Myrmotherula ignota 2 Pacific Antwren Myrmotherula pacifica 1 Checker-throated Antwren Myrmotherula fulviventris 1 White-flanked Antwren Myrmotherula axillaris 2 Dot-winged Antwren Microrhopias quixensis 1 Dusky Antbird Cercomacra tyrannina 2 Spotted Antbird Hylophylax naevioides 2 Immaculate Antbird Myrmeciza immaculata 1 Chestnut-backed Antbird Myrmeciza exsul 1 Stub-tailed Antbird Myrmeciza berlepschi 2 Bicolored Antbird Gymnopithys leucaspis 3 Ocellated Antbird Phaenostictus mcleannani 1 Black-headed Antthrush Formicarius nigricapillus 4 Rufous-crowned Antpitta Pittasoma rufopileatum 2 Streak-chested Antpitta Hylopezus perspicillatus 4 Chocó Tapaculo Scytalopus chocoensis 2 Sooty-headed Tyrannulet Phyllomyias griseiceps 2 Golden-faced Tyrannulet Zimmerius chrysops 2 Brown-capped Tyrannulet Ornithion brunneicapillum 2 Southern Beardless Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum 2 Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet Tyrannulus elatus 2 Gray Elaenia Myiopagis caniceps 2 Greenish Elaenia Myiopagis viridicata

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 23 2 Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster 4 Torrent Tyrannulet Serpophaga cinerea 2 Olive-striped Flycatcher Mionectes olivaceus 2 Ochre-bellied Flycatcher Mionectes oleagineus 2 Slaty-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon superciliaris 2 Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant Myiornis atricapillus 1 Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant Lophotriccus pileatus 1 Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum nigriceps 1 Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum 2 Pacific Flatbill Rhynchocyclus pacificus 2 Yellow-margined Flatbill Tolmomyias flavotectus 3 Golden-crowned Spadebill Platyrinchus coronatus 3 Ornate Flycatcher Myiotriccus ornatus 2 Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher Terenotriccus erythrurus 3 Black-tailed Flycatcher Myiobius atricaudus 3 Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher Myiobius sulphureipygius 3 Bran-colored Flycatcher Myiophobus fasciatus 4 Northern Tufted-Flycatcher Mitrephanes phaeocercus 3 Olive-sided Flycatcher Contopus cooperi 3 Acadian Flycatcher Empidonax virescens 1 Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans 1 Long-tailed Tyrant Colonia colonus 2 Bright-rumped Attila Attila spadiceus 2 Rufous Mourner holerythra 4 Western Sirystes albogriseus 1 Dusky-capped Flycatcher tuberculifer 1 Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua 1 Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis 1 Rusty-margined Flycatcher Myiozetetes cayanensis 1 Gray-capped Flycatcher Myiozetetes granadensis 3 White-ringed Flycatcher Conopias albovittata 2 Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus 1 Piratic Flycatcher Legatus leucophaius 1 Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus 2 Snowy-throated Kingbird Tyrannus niveigularis 2 Cinnamon Becard Pachyramphus cinnamomeus 3 White-winged Becard Pachyramphus polychopterus 4 Slaty Becard Pachyramphus spodiurus 2 One-colored Becard Platypsaris homochrous 2 Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata 3 Black-crowned Tityra Tityra inquisitor 2 Rufous Piha unirufus 3 Black-tipped Cotinga Carpodectes hopkei 3 Purple-throated Fruitcrow Querula purpurata

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 24 3 Long-wattled Umbrellabird Cephalopterus penduliger 2 Red-capped Manakin Pipra mentalis 2 Blue-crowned Manakin Lepidothrix coronata 3 Golden-winged Manakin Masius chrysopterus 1 White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus 4 Club-winged Manakin Machaeropterus deliciosus 3 Green Manakin Chloropipo holochlora 4 Thrush-like Schiffornis Schiffornis turdinus 2 Broad-billed Sapayoa Sapayoa aenigma 3 Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo Vireolanius leucotis 2 Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus 2 Lesser Greenlet Hylophilus decurtatus 2 Tawny-crowned Greenlet Hylophilus ochraceiceps 3 Swainson's Thrush Catharus ustulatus 3 Pale-vented Thrush Turdus obsoletus 2 Dagua Thrush Turdus daguae 2 Gray-breasted Martin Progne chalybea 1 Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca 3 White-thighed Swallow Neochelidon tibialis 2 Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis 4 Sand Martin Riparia riparia 3 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica 2 Band-backed Wren Campylorhynchus zonatus 4 Gray-mantled Wren Odontorchilus branickii 1 Bay Wren Thryothorus nigricapillus 1 Stripe-throated Wren Thryothorus leucopogon 1 House Wren Troglodytes aedon 1 White-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucosticta 3 Song Wren Cyphorhinus phaeocephalus 1 Southern Nightingale-Wren Microcerculus marginatus 2 Tawny-faced Gnatwren Microbates cinereiventris 3 Long-billed Gnatwren Ramphocaenus melanurus 3 Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea 2 Slate-throated Gnatcatcher Polioptila schistaceigula 3 Blackpoll Warbler Dendroica striata 3 Blackburnian Warbler Dendroica fusca 3 Olive-crowned Yellowthroat Geothlypis semiflava 2 Buff-rumped Warbler Basileuterus fulvicauda 1 Bananaquit Coereba flaveola 2 Purple Honeycreeper Cyanerpes caeruleus 2 Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza 2 Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana 2 Yellow-tufted Dacnis Dacnis egregia 3 Scarlet-thighed Dacnis Dacnis venusta

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 25 3 Scarlet-breasted Dacnis Dacnis berlepschi 3 Scarlet-and-white Tanager Erythrothlypis salmoni 4 Yellow-collared Chlorophonia Chlorophonia flavirostris 2 Thick-billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris 2 Orange-bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster 3 White-vented Euphonia Euphonia minuta 3 Fulvous-vented Euphonia Euphonia fulvicrissa 2 Rufous-throated Tanager Tangara rufigula 3 Gray-and-gold Tanager Tangara palmeri 3 Emerald Tanager Tangara florida 2 Blue-necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis 1 Golden-hooded Tanager Tangara larvata 3 Blue-whiskered Tanager Tangara johannae 2 Bay-headed Tanager Tangara gyrola 2 Rufous-winged Tanager Tangara lavinia 3 Golden-chested Tanager Bangsia rothschildi 2 Swallow Tanager Tersina viridis 1 Blue-gray Tanager Thraupis episcopus 1 Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum 1 Lemon-rumped Tanager Ramphocelus icteronotus 2 Summer Tanager Piranga rubra 2 Lemon-spectacled Tanager Chlorothraupis olivacea 4 Ochre-breasted Tanager Chlorothraupis stolzmanni 2 Dusky-faced Tanager Mitrospingus cassinii 2 White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus 2 White-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus 1 Tawny-crested Tanager Tachyphonus delatrii 2 Scarlet-browed Tanager Heterospingus xanthopygius 1 Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus 2 Black-winged Saltator Saltator atripennis 2 Slate-colored Grosbeak Saltator grossus 3 Blue-black Grosbeak Cyanocompsa cyanoides 2 Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina 2 Lesser Seed-Finch Oryzoborus angolensis 1 Variable Seedeater Sporophila corvina 2 Yellow-bellied Seedeater Sporophila nigricollis 4 Chestnut-throated Seedeater Sporophila telasco 2 Orange-billed Sparrow Arremon aurantiirostris 3 Black-striped Sparrow Arremonops conirostris 2 Scarlet-rumped Cacique Cacicus microrhynchus 3 Chestnut-headed Oropendola Zarhynchus wagleri 3 Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 26 Additional list

Here we include an additional list of "hypothetical" bird species. These are species that have been reported by others but they have not been seen by us. Some of these species have been seen in the upper parts of the reserve, a strenuous hike where tourists normally don’t get to. Many of these records are made by Olaf Jahn, who has been surveying birds at Playa de Oro for many years. The accidental boreal migrants are left out.

Harpy Eagle Harpia harpyja Collared Forest-Falcon Micrastur semitorquatus Great Curassow Crax rubra Colombian Crake Neocrex colombianus Blue Ground-Dove Claravis pretiosa Pearly-breasted Cuckoo Coccyzus euleri Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris Banded Ground-Cuckoo Neomorphus radiolosus Black-and-white Owl Strix nigrolineata Oilbird Steatornis caripensis Violet-bellied Hummingbird Damophila julie Blue-chested Hummingbird Amazilia amabilis Green-and-rufous Kingfisher Chloroceryle inda Black-breasted Puffbird Notharchus pectoralis Yellow-eared Toucanet Selenidera spectabilis Chocó Woodpecker Veniliornis chocoensis Brown-billed Scythebill Campylorhamphus pusillus Slaty Antwren Myrmotherula schisticolor Esmeraldas Antbird Myrmeciza nigricauda Tawny-breasted Flycatcher Myiobius villosus Black-and-white Becard Pachyramphus albogriseus Speckled Mourner rufescens Blue Cotinga Cotinga nattererii Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides Rufous-brown Solitaire Cichlopsis leucogenys Black-lored Yellowthroat Geothlypis auricularis Chocó Warbler Basileuterus chlorophrys Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus Moss-backed Tanager Bangsia edwardsi Crimson-breasted Finch Rhodospingus cruentus Dull-colored Grassquit Tiaris obscura Black-and-white Seedeater Sporophila luctuosa Yellow-billed Cacique Amblycercus holosericeus Giant Cowbird Molothrus oryzivorus Yellow-tailed Oriole Icterus mesomelas

Birding at Playa de Oro: Ecuador's ultimate destination for Chocó lowland birding Dušan M. Brinkhuizen © 2014 27