ECUADOR: THE NORTHWESTERN ANDEAN SLOPES NOVEMBER 10–18, 2018 Moss-backed Tanager © Paul J. Greenfield LEADER: PAUL GREENFIELD LIST COMPILED BY: PAUL GREENFIELD VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM ECUADOR: THE NORTHWESTERN ANDEAN SLOPES NOVEMBER 10–18, 2018 By Paul Greenfield Ecuador’s renowned avian treasures are perhaps most easily discovered in this country’s northwestern region, along the high-Andean ridges and throughout the incredibly biodiverse Chocó bioregion. During our week-long sojourn within this fascinating sector, we explored a variety of ecosystems and habitats at varying elevations, but surely one of the most rewarding aspects was experiencing several “home-grown” tourism projects where we were able to witness firsthand how birds and birding have inspired creativity and environmental awareness, have fostered well-being, and are generating crucial economic benefits for rural communities that otherwise had been literally “left by the wayside.” It is thanks to these amazing entrepreneurial efforts that we were able to observe and enjoy so many wonderful bird species. We would like to extend our special thanks to Rolando, Angel & Rodrigo, Sergio & Doris, Luis, and Fabián, who have given so much of themselves to make our journey a great success! We also cannot forget to mention the Jocotoco and Mindo Cloudforest foundations for their tireless work saving bird species and the forests that they inhabit, and last but not least the fabulous staff (and owner) of Séptimo Paraíso, our home-away-from- home throughout this Northwestern Andean Slopes Tour. Our itinerary took us first to the high-Andean Yanacocha refuge, where within a little over an hour’s drive up and over the northwestern ridge of Pichincha volcano, we immediately came upon our first whirl of undescribably mesmerizing hummingbirds: Tyrian Metaltails, Sapphire- vented Pufflegs, Shining Sunbeams, Buff-winged Starfrontlets, the otherworldly Sword-billed Hummingbird, and an onslaught of really huge (for a hummer) Great Sapphirewings, while a group of Andean Guans rummaged about not far away. At nearby plantain feeders, which we had to sacrifice our bananas to, a totally out of range female White-lined Tanager surprised us; and then the spectacle ensued—not knowing how to look away from the hummingbird action to enjoy close-ups of a group of Black-chested and Scarlet-bellied mountain-tanagers, and a pair of Yellow-breasted (Rufous-naped) Brushfinches; a pair of Tufted Tit-Tyrants also entertained us. As Brown-bellied Swallows circled about, we headed off along the reserve’s main trail and ran into a small mixed-species foraging flock with White-banded Tyrannulets, Superciliaried Hemispingus, and Cinereous Conebill among the participants. We advanced to a final set of feeders where we were able to study many of the same hummingbirds we already enjoyed earlier (though with some better views, if that could even be possible) and added the scarce Golden-breasted Puffleg to our cache; we also had excellent looks along the way and at the feeders of many very obliging Glossy and Masked flowerpiercers. As the clouds began to roll in, we continued our journey westward and constantly downslope towards the village of Tandayapa, along the Paseo del Quinde Ecoroute, stopping for views of a di stant lek of Andean Cocks-of-the-rock across the thickly forested valley; we spotted a White-capped Dipper at the Tandayapa bridge and then ascended along the winding Ecoroute to the ridge where we took an excellent coffee/birding break at Bellavista Cloud Forest Lodge…complete with a feast of Speckled Hummingbirds, dazzling Violet-tailed Sylphs (our first of many), sharply-clad Collared Incas, Buff-tailed Coronets (by the dozens!), Fawn-breasted Brilliants, a female Empress Brilliant, and adorable bee-like Purple-throated Woodstars, Masked Trogons (including one female that hung out right by us), a charming Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 Ecuador: Northwestern Andean Slopes, 2018 unabashed Cinnamon Flycatcher, Smoke-colored Pewee, Golden-crowned Flycatcher, Russet-crowned and Blackburnian warblers, Blue-winged Mountain-Tanagers, White-sided Flowerpiercer, and Orange-bellied Euphonia. We then continued on towards our day’s destination and what would be our headquarters for the remainder of the trip—Séptimo Paraíso Lodge—stopping for a Gorgeted Sunangel en route. From the comfort of our lodge, the following five days were jam-packed with visits to a diversity of habitats, ecosystems, and birding destinations, and a veritable rainbow of memorable experiences to come: walks around the Séptimo Paraíso grounds, visits to Milpe Bird Sanctuary, San Tadeo Birding (“Casa Rolando” is my own preferred name), the village of ’23 de Junio’, Amagusa Reserve (in the Mashpi area), Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary, Mirador Río Blanco for coffee and birds, the unforgettable Paz Refugio de las Aves, and Milpe Gardens. Highlights were definitely innumerable—each and every day brought a treasure- trove of regional avian specialties and a constant flow of “Wow” and “OMG”-moments! Our second day brought on a Tiny Hawk fly-by right over our heads (!), 16 hummingbird species (many of them Chocó endemic species), including White-whiskered and Tawny-bellied hermits, more splendid Violet-tailed Sylphs, Brown Inca, the most spectacular Velvet-purple Coronets, those absolutely precious (White) Booted Racket-tails, Purple-bibbed Whitetip, glittering Crowned Woodnymphs, and Andean Emeralds among them. At and around the plantain feeders at Milpe Bird Sanctuary we relished in a pair of Rufous Motmots, a wonderful pair of Red-headed Barbets, and our first of many Chestnut-mandibled (Yellow-throated) and Chocó toucans, all seen up-close-and-personal. Of the 16 species of mind-blowing tanagers seen on this our first day—most of them observed intimately close at plantain feeders set up at Milpe Bird Sanctuary and San Tadeo Birding (Casa Rolando)—Fawn-breasted, the Chocó endemic Rufous-throated, Golden-naped, Black-capped, Blue-necked, Beryl-spangled, the endemic regional race of Flame-faced, Golden, Silver-throated, and Swallow tanagers stand out. We also enjoyed a pair of nest-building Red-faced Spinetails, delightful Ornate Flycatcher, a juvenile male Golden-winged Manakin, the endemic Ecuadorian Thrush, and a snappy pair of Green Honeycreepers. Our following morning was truly amazing (even with our brief bout of car battery trouble). We set out early and drove through thick fog to the small village of 23 de Junio, to meet up with Luís Aguíla, who would lead us on an uphill hike to where we eventually found several Long- wattled Umbrellabirds! But this was just the beginning: Golden-headed Quetzals, Pale- mandibled Araçaris, a male Powerful Woodpecker, a perched female Bat Falcon, a flying band of Rose-faced Parrots, at least 20 Bronze-winged Parrots, Nariño Tapaculo, a Slaty Spinetail sunning itself, a wonderful episode with a displaying male Club-winged Manakin, and our first Black-chinned Mountain-Tanagers. But perhaps most unforgettable was a perched, calling Ornate Hawk-Eagle that sat out in plain view, crest flaring…scope views; later we heard and then watched a soaring Black Hawk-Eagle…and that was only the morning! We then spent a very enjoyable morning at the Amagusa Reserve, run by a local couple who are creating a wonderful hands-on conservation project of their own. Their plantain feeders were quite amazing, with many tanagers that included the breathtaking Glistening-green and the regionally special Moss-backed, the definitely uncommon Golden-collared Honeycreeper, and even better looks than we’d enjoyed before of Flame-faced and Rufous-throated tanagers; gasps were uttered as a group of Crimson-rumped Toucanets worked their way to the feeders. It just kept getting better, if it really could, as we came face-to-face with an Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 Ecuador: Northwestern Andean Slopes, 2018 exceptionally camouflaged (in plain-sight) female Lyre-tailed Nightjar at its day roost just a few feet away. We then set ourselves up at the steps of what seemed like a rather out-of- place artist’s home, in front of several plantain feeders, and let the show commence— tanagers of course, then a pair of—one of the region’s show-stoppers—Toucan Barbets, and followed by 4 individuals of what must have been a family group of Tayras (a robust member of the weasel family) that slowly worked their way up to us and the feeders. Just sitting there (well, we began moving about to get better looks) we spotted several Chocó endemics, including Pacific Tuftedcheek and Uniform Treehunter, then a Broad-billed Motmot and a Rufous-rumped Antwren . Back along the road we encountered our first Orange-breasted Fruiteater (2 more were seen a bit later on) and the rare endemic Indigo Flowerpiercer; three Black-and-white Becards and later a White-breasted Wood-Wren were seen …again, another super morning! Back at Séptimo Paraíso, we took it easy, picking up a couple of new species; Ann and Andrew encountered a Crested Guan, and we walked over to enjoy scope views of a napping Common Potoo on its day-roost. Our next outing took us to a lowland site, Río Silanche Bird Sanctuary; a pair of Hook-billed Kites presented themselves well before we even arrived at the reserve. Once there, we headed straight for the well-reputed canopy tower, where, from its elevated platform, we scanned the surroundings and waited patiently (or impatiently) for the activity to fire-up, and slowly, perhaps, but surely it did. Chocó Tyrannulet came in close, as did Red-eyed Vireo (resident birds); a perched Purple-crowned Fairy was scoped; the Chocó endemic Purple- chested Hummingbird also showed up at some point; a male White-tailed Trogon perched close-by on some nearby branches; Golden-olive and Black-cheeked woodpeckers were seen, as we secured close views of a male Black-crowned Antshrike and a band of Dot- winged Antwrens; a Black-striped Woodcreeper, 2 male White-shouldered and a pair of Gray- and-gold tanagers were also seen splendidly.