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Otteita Kirjasta Tuokiokuvia Tokiosta

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Otteita Kirjasta Tuokiokuvia Tokiosta ESIPUHE Yhteinen kiertomatkamme Japanin kolmeen tärkeimpään kaupunkiin on nyt koossa. Juhanilla on takana viisitoista matkaa nousevan auringon maahan, Annelle vuosien 2011-2013 neljä matkaa ovat olleet ensimmäisiä. Huhtikuussa 2011 matkustimme Kiotoon Annen syntymäpäivän kunniaksi. Alun perin meidän piti käydä myös Tokiossa, mutta lykkäsimme matkan syksyyn maaliskuisen Tohokun maanjäristystä seuranneen tsunamin ja Fukushiman ydinvoimalaonnettomuuden vuoksi. Osakassa kä- vimme lokakuussa 2012. Kirjoitimme näistä matkoista kirjat: ”Kiireetöntä kirsikankukkien aikaa Kiotossa 1.-16.4.2011” ja ”Osaka-Story 2012”. Lokakuussa 2013 matkustimme toisen kerran Tokioon. Tuokiokuvia Tokiosta -kirjaan on koottu kummankin matkan kokemukset. Kioto- ja Osaka –kirjoissa noudatimme päiväkirjamaista esitystapaa, mutta kahden samaan kaupunkiin suuntautuneen matkan kuvauksessa muutimme kerrontatapaa. Elävyyden säilyttämiseksi kertomuksemme heijastaa tapahtuneita kulkemisen käänteitä, mutta toiston välttämi- Kustantaja: ARKKITEHTITOIMISTO JUHANI KATAINEN seksi olemme yhdistäneet useammin käytyjen kohteiden kokemukset. Vuoden 2011 matka Tokioon keskittyi enimmäkseen arkkitehtuurikoh- Teksti ja kuvat: Anne Jarva ja Juhani Katainen teisiin. Mieliinpainuvia kokemuksia olivat muun muassa Toyo Iton Tama-kirjasto ja Kengo Kuman Nezu-museo. Myös käynnit keinotekoisella Taitto, kuvien käsittely: Anne Jarva Valmistaja: Oy Nord Print Ab saarella Tokion lahdella sekä lounas Jokohaman kiinalaiskortteleissa jäivät erityisesti mieleen. Syksyn 2013 vierailu vei meidät jo tutuksi tullei- den kohteiden ohella muun muassa Sumida-joen risteilylle, uuteen Skytree –torniin sekä Hakonen luonnonpuistoihin köysiratoineen. @ 2015 Anne Jarva ja Juhani Katainen ISBN 978-952-67308-7-5 Neljä matkaamme Japaniin on lisännyt ruokahaluamme. Tuskin maltamme odottaa uutta tilaisuutta kokea Japani, sen monipuolinen ja ajalli- sesti pitkä kulttuuri, maisemat ja rakennettu ympäristö. ANNE JARVA JA JUHANI KATAINEN SISÄLTÖ Esipuhe 3 NAUTISKELLEN TOKION KUKKULOILLA 58 TOKIONLAHDEN RANNALLA 102 SISÄLTÖ 4 Roppongi (Minato-ku) 58 Makuhari Bay Town (Chiba pref.) 102 TOKION TAVOITTAMATON OLEMUS 6 National Art Center Tokyo (Minato-ku) 60 Makuhari Messe (Chiba pref.) 106 NELJÄN KERROKSEN KAUPUNKI 9 Tokyo Midtown (Minato-ku) 62 Kasai Rinkai Park - Sealife Park (Edogawa-ku) 108 HOTELLIELÄMÄÄ JA ARKIRUTIINEJA 12 Roppongi Hills Mori Tower (Minato-ku) 64 VIIME SILMÄYS TOKIOON 112 TOKIO TÄNÄÄN 16 GA-gallery ja Hamlet Residential Complex (Shibuya-ku) 66 Hillside Terrace (Shibuya-ku) 112 Ilta Shibuyassa (Shibuya-ku) 16 National NO Theater(Shibuya-ku) 67 Kyu Asakura House (Shibuya-ku) 116 Shinjuku - Metropolin liikennesolmu ja keskus (Shinjuku-ku) 18 Tokyo Metropolitan Gymnasia (Shibuya-ku) 67 Old Shinbashi Station (Minato-ku) 20 Yoyogi National Stadium (Shibuya-ku) 68 Matkaohjelmat 120 Tokyo International Forum (Chuo-ku) 21 Meiji-Jingu (Shibuya-ku) 70 Kirjallisuutta 123 Tokyo Skytree (Sumida-ku) 22 Omotesando (Shibuya-ku / Minato-ku) 72 Henkilöhakemisto 124 HISTORIALLINEN TOKIO 24 Nezu-museo (Minato-ku) 74 Kirjan tekijät 127 Edo-museo (Sumida-ku) 24 Ebisu, valokuvataiteen museo (Shibuya-ku / Meguro-ku) 76 Palace Side Building (Chiyoda-ku) 26 ARKKITEHTUURI- JA TAIDEKOULUJA 78 National Museum of Modern Art (Chiyoda-ku) 27 Kokushikan University (Setagaya-ku) 78 Keisarillisen palatsin itäiset puutarhat (Chiyoda-ku) 28 Raymond Sekkei (Shibuya-ku) 80 Marunouchi (Chiyoda-ku) 32 Tama Art School Library (Hachikoji-shi, Tokyo pref.) 82 Ginza (Chuo-ku) 34 PÄIVÄ AUTOILLEN 84 Shizuoka Press ja Nagakin Capsule Tower (Chuo-ku) 38 Umi-Hota-pa 84 Tsukijin kala- ja vihannestori (Chuo-ku) 40 Jokohama (Kanagawa pref.) 84 Hama-rikyu (Chuo-ku) 41 Edo-Tokio arkkitehtuuriulkoilmamuseo (Koganei-shi, Tokyo pref.) 85 Risteily Sumida-joella (Chuo-ku / Sumida-ku / Taito-ku) 44 KAMAKURA (Kanagawa pref.) 86 Asakusa (Taito-ku) 46 HAKONE (Kanagawa pref.) 90 VIHREÄ TOKIO 48 Matka Ashi-järvelle 93 Ueno-puiston museot (Taito-ku) 48 Hakone-machista Moto-Hakoneen 95 Edon tunnelmaa Yanakassa (Taito-ku) 52 KAWAGOE (Saitama pref.) 97 Rikugien Gardens (Bunkyo-ku) 54 Kadonnutta Edoa etsimässä 97 Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens (Bunkyo-ku) 56 Kura-zukuri -kaupunki 99 Kitain-temppeli 100 ◄ Ihmisvilinää Omotesandolla lokakuussa 2013 4 TUOKIOKUVIA TOKIOSTA TUOKIOKUVIA TOKIOSTA 5 Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices, Nishi-Shinjuku ► Kenzo Tange 1991 TOKION TAVOITTAMATON OLEMUS Tokio on yksi maailman suurimmista metropoleista. Ydin-Tokiossa asuu 12 miljoo- naa asukasta ja sitä ympäröivällä Kanton alueella yli 30 miljoonaa. Yhtenäinen ur- baani rakenne ulottuu aina Naganoon, Osakaan ja Kiotoon saakka: Tällä Tokaidon alueella asuu 65 miljoonaa asukasta eli noin puolet Japanin väestöstä. Tokion metropoliin kuuluu 23 aluetta (japaniksi ku ), joista jokaisella on oma kau- punginjohtaja ja valtuusto. Esimerkiksi Shibuya on tällainen alue. Metropolihallin- toon kuuluu myös läntinen Tokio eli Tama (26 kaupunkia, viisi taajamaa ja kahdek- san kylää) sekä yhdeksän saaristoa. Tokiossa on siis myös maaseutua. Ensimmäiset merkit asutuksesta Kanton alueella ovat peräisin Jomon-kaudelta, yli ▲ Wako Department Store Ginza. Hitoshi Watanabe 1931 ▲ Nagakin Capsule Tower. Kisho Kurokawa 1972 ▲ Prada Boutique Aoyama. Herzog & de Meuron 2003 10 000 vuoden takaa. Tokion kaupunkihistoria alkaa 1400-luvulta, jolloin Edon lin- na rakennetaan. 1600-luvulla Tokugawa Ieasu tekee Edosta hallinnollisen pääkau- Kanton maanjäristys 1923 tuhoaa kaupungin laajalti - mutta antaa myös tilaa ra- 1960-luku on Japanin arkkitehtuurin merkkipaalu. Länsimaisia vaikutteita on vir- pungin. Edon linnaa laajennetaan ja alkaa noin 250 vuoden mittainen rauhan (ja kentaa uutta ja laajentaa rataverkkoa. rannut maahan sadan vuoden ajan, ja länsimaiset modernistit, kuten Frank Lloyd sotilaallisen kurin) kausi, jolloin talous ja kulttuuri kukoistavat. Maata käytännössä Wright ja Le Corbusier, jättävät maahan kädenjälkensä. Uutta rakentamista tarvi- Japanin levittäytyminen Kiinaan ja Aasiaan päättyy Tyynenmeren sotaan, kun hallitsevat shogunit syöstään vallasta vuoden 1868 Meiji-vallankumouksessa. Kei- taan, kun luonnonkatastrofien ja pommitusten tuhot osoittavat perinteisen puu- amerikkalaiset pommittavat 1944 - 45 Tokion lähes maan tasalle. Sodan jälkeen sari muuttaa Kiotosta Edoon, joka saa nimen Tokio. arkkitehtuurin olevan aivan liian haavoittuvaista tiiviissä suurkaupungissa. teollistuminen jatkuu entistä hurjemmalla vauhdilla ja Tokio kasvaa lähes holtitto- Japaniin modernisoituminen alkaa 1800-luvun loppupuolella, ja sitä kiihdyttävät masti. Paikoin rakennetaan jopa hökkelikyliä raunioiden päälle. Valmistautuminen Aito japanilainen moderni arkkitehtuuri syntyy kuitenkin vasta, kun metabolistit niin sotateollisuus kuin hallinnolliset uudistukset. Vuosisadan vaihteessa maahan vuoden 1964 olympialaisiin käynnistää koko joukon uudistuksia, muun muassa yhdistävät japanilaisen perinteen länsimaiseen arkkitehtuuriin. Vaikka metabolis- tulvii länsimaisia vaikutteita ja Tokiota aletaan suunnitella jossain määrin koko- kaupungin liikennejärjestelmää parannetaan ja rakennetaan ensimmäiset moot- tit, Kenzo Tange etunenässä, rakentavat vain harvoja rakennuksia, heidän vaiku- naisuutena. Esimerkiksi Ginzaa rakennetaan länsimaisen kaupunkisuunnittelun toritiet. Olympialaiset päättävät jälleenrakennuskauden ja Tokio voidaan esitellä tuksensa on suuri. He vapauttavat japanilaisen arkkitehtuurin sekä traditiosta että periaattein. maailmalle. länsimaisista ihanteista. 6 TUOKIOKUVIA TOKIOSTA TUOKIOKUVIA TOKIOSTA 7 Kansainvälinen tyyli ja postmodernismi vaikuttavat Japanissa, mutta omintakei- tatielinja kiertää vanhaa ylimysten yläkaupunkia eli Yamamotoa. Ueno ja Asakusa simmat muodot arkkitehtuuriin syntyvät 1980-luvun kiihkeän taloudellisen kas- levittäytyvät perinteiseen Shitamachiin, tavallisten kaupunkilaisten alakaupun- vun, ns. kupla-talouden (baburu keizai) aikana. 1990-luvun rakennustyypiksi muo- kiin. Kiinteistökehitystä säätelevät pienet tontit, joiden yhdistäminen ei yleensä dostuu vapaasti seisova muotitalon lippulaiva. ole sallittua. Roppongi Hills Mori Towerin ympäristöä, Tokyo Midtownin aluetta, Shinjukun tai muiden vilkkaiden rautatieasemien seutuja lukuun ottamatta Tokio, Japanin arkkitehtuurille ja kaupunkirakentamiselle on tyypillistä tapa lainata muis- torneistaan huolimatta, on matala, tasainen ja pienimittakaavainen kaupunki. ta kulttuurista, mutta myös kokeilla ja kehittää asioita omaan suuntaan. Tokiota voi pitää eräänlaisena urbaanina laboratoriona, jossa yli sadan vuoden aikana on Botond Bognarin sanoin (vapaasti suomennettuna artikkelista The Informational kokeiltu monenlaisia eurooppalaisille ja amerikkalaisille historiallisille kaupungeil- World City, teoksessa Architectural Guide Tokyo, 2011): le tyypillisiä malleja. ”Tänään Tokio ei kopioi tai seuraa, vaan johtaa tietä maailman kaupunkien jou- NELJÄN KERROKSEN KAUPUNKI Vaikka muutokset etenkin viimeisen 30 vuoden aikana ovat olleet rajuja, Tokio kossa. Kun kaupunkia vielä 70-luvulla pidettiin likaisena, sairaana ja parantumat- Vuoden 2011 matkalla mieleemme juolahti, että Tokio on kaupunki neljässä tasos- on säilyttänyt esi-modernin Edo-kauden urbaanin rakenteen ja aasialaisen kau- tomana, 2000-luvun metropolina Tokio toimii valtavan hyvin. Siellä on inhimillisiä sa, jotka hahmottuvat parhaiten kulkuväyliltä käsin. Ilman kokonaissuunnitelmaa pungin olennaisimmat piirteet. Ydinkeskusta on rakentunut Edon linnan ympärille asuinympäristöjä, alhainen rikollisuus, tehokas julkinen liikenne, monia viehättäviä muodostuneet kaupunginosat
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