25_599518 bindex.qxp 2/8/06 9:04 PM Page 863

Index

Alcázar (Toledo), 730–731 Ancient Agora (Athens), 467 Abades (Seville), 736 Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos Ancient Corinth, 474 Abbaye de Notre Dame de (Córdoba), 738 Ancient Site (Olympia), 482 Lérin (Cannes), 305 Alexander Nevski Memorial Andersen, Hans Christian, Abbey Theatre (Dublin), 448 Cathedral (Sofia), 843 215, 218 A Brasileira (Lisbon), 693 The Alfama (Lisbon), sights and Ankara, 862 Accommodations, attractions, 683–685 Anna Lowe (), 276 72–74, 620–622 The Algarve, 697–701 Anne Frankhuis (Amsterdam), booking services, 74 Alhambra (Granada), 740, 742 622–623 Achaia Clauss Winery (Patras), Alien (Rome), 555 Anta (Edinburgh), 426 484 A l’Imaige de Nostre-Dame Antico Caffè Greco (Rome), 554 , 474 (), 139–140 Antigo Mercado de Escravos Acronafplia (Nafplion), 475 Alpenzoo (Alpine Zoo; (Lagos), 698 The Acropolis (Athens), 465 Innsbruck), 118 Antigua Bodega Cartañeda Adega Machado (Lisbon), 691 Alstadt (Old Town), Zurich, 806 (Granada), 744 Adelphi Kazanzidi (Thessa- Altar of the Holy Blood Antikmuseum (Stockholm), 775 loniki), 494 (Rothenburg), 383 Antiquarium (Pompeii), 560 Adolfo Domínguez (), Alte Pinakothek (Munich), Antiques 758 357–358 Brussels, 138 AghaRTA Jazz Centrum (), 338 Lausanne, 824 (Prague), 182 Altes Presshaus (Vienna), 102 London, 413 Agia Lavra, monastery of, 480 Altes Residenztheater Madrid, 728 Agios Dimitrios Church (Munich), 366 Paris, 275 (), 490 Altmarkt Galerie Dresden, 377 Antwerp, 122, 142–144 The Agora (Athens), 465 Altstadt (Old City or Old Town) Antwerp Royal Museum of Fine Åhléns City (Stockholm), 780 Innsbruck, 116 Arts, 143 Ainola Ainolantie (near Munich, 350 Appartamenti Reali (Florence), Helsinki), 235 Salzburg, 105–106 572 Airfares, 68–69 Altstadtkeller (Salzburg), 113 Arc de Triomphe (Paris), 265 Airlines, 60–61 Amalienborg Palace (Copen- Archaeological Museum. See Air travel, 67–69 hagen), 206 also National Archaeological Aix-en-Provence, 299–302 Amalienburg (Munich), 361 Museum Ajuntament (Barcelona), 752 Amato (London), 412 Corinth, 474 Akavriet (Bergen Aquarium), Amboise, 288–290 Mycenae, 478 664–665 Ambrosiana Library (Milan), Nafplion, 476 Aker Brygge (), 655 601–602 Olympia, 482 Akershus CastleCOPYRIGHTED and Fortress American Bar (London), 415MATERIALPatras, 484 (Oslo), 652 American Express, 71 Thebes, 466 Akhnaton (Amsterdam), 630 Amphithéâtre (Arles), 298 Thessaloniki, 490 A la Mort Subite (Brussels), Amsterdam, 609, 615–632 Zagreb, 846 139 Amsterdam Centraal Station, Archaeological Park (Syracuse), Al Andalus Expreso, 706 618 561 Albaicín (Granada), 742–743 Amsterdam Diamond Center, Arche Scaligere (Verona), 595 Albert Cuyp Markt (Amster- 628–629 Archipelagos (Athens), 471 dam), 629 Amsterdams Historisch Museum Arch of Constantine (Rome), Albertina Museum (Vienna), 95 (Amsterdam Historical 544 Museum), 622 25_599518 bindex.qxp 2/8/06 9:04 PM Page 864

864 INDEX

The Arch of Galerius (Thessa- Bahnhofstrasse (Zurich), Basilica of the Holy Blood loniki), 490 805, 809 (Bruges), 147 Arch of Titus (Rome), 547 Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten Basilica San Zeno Maggiore Arciliuto (Rome), 554–555 (Berlin), 328 (Verona), 595 ARCO (Madrid’s International Baiser Salé (Paris), 277 Basilique du Sacré-Coeur Contemporary Art Fair), 704 Baker’s (Helsinki), 242 (Paris), 265 Arena di Verona, 595 Balaton, Lake, 521–527 Batofar (Paris), 278 Århus, 194, 219–221 Balaton Museum (Keszthely), Battlefield Panorama Århus Domkirke (Cathedral of 526 (Waterloo), 140 St. Clemens), 219–220 Balkan Flexipass, 52 Bavarian State Opera Århus Festival Week, 194 Bally Schuhfabriken AG (Munich), 366 Arles, 297–299 (Zurich), 809–810 Bayerisches Nationalmuseum Armory (Dresden), 376 Baltic Herring Market (Munich), 358 Art and Junk Market (Berlin), (Helsinki), 224 Bayerisches Staatsschauspiel 345 Bambole di Trilly (Venice), 591 (Munich), 366 Arthur’s Seat (Edinburgh), 422 Bangsbo Museum (Frederik- Bayerische Staatsoper Art Picasso (Barcelona), 758 shavn), 221 (Munich), 366 A Severa (Lisbon), 691 Baptismal Font (Liège), 152 Beaulieu (Lausanne), 824 Astronomical Clock (Orloj; Baptistery (Battistero) Belém (Lisbon), 685–687 Prague), 176 Milan, 602 Belfort en Hallen (Bruges), 146 Atelier de Cézanne (Aix-en- Pisa, 577 Belfort en Lakenhalle (Ghent), Provence), 300 San Giovanni (Florence), 568 141 Athena of Victory (Athens), 466 Siena, 579 Belgian Center for Comic-Strip Athens, 449, 450, 458–472 Bar am Lützowplatz Art (Brussels), 135–136 Athens Center, 472 (Berlin), 347 Belgium, 121–158 Athens Concert Hall, 471 Barbican Centre (London), 414 Belgrade, 855–856 Athens Festival, 450, 468 Barcelona, 702, 705, 744–761 Benaki Museum (Athens), 467 ATMs, 71 Barcelona, Catedral de, Benelux Tourrail Pass, Atomium (Brussels), 135 751–752 52, 124, 612 A Trane (Berlin), 346 Barcelona Pipa Club, 760 Bergen, 642, 659–668 Au Bon Vieux Temps (Brussels), Bärengraben (Bern), 815 Bergen Aquarium (Akavriet), 139 Bargello Museum (Florence), 664–665 Au Chat Noir (Geneva), 835 569 Bergen Folklore, 668 Augsburg, 384–385 Bar of the Café Alcántara Bergen International Festival, Augustiner Bierhalle (Lisbon), 693 641 (Munich), 367 Baron & Baroness (Copen- Bergen Kunstmuseum, 665 Augustiner Bräustübl hagen), 213 Berle Bryggen (Bergen), 667 (Salzburg), 113 Barri Gòtic (Barcelona), 752 Berlin, 317–318, 325–349 Augustiner Keller (Vienna), 101 Barrio Latino (Paris), 279 Berlin Cafe (Milan), 605 Au Lapin Agile (Paris), 276 Bar Rumba (London), 415 Berlin Ostbahnhof, 328 Au Printemps (Paris), 275 Basilica di San Giovanni in , 339 Au Sauvignon (Paris), 278 Laterano (Rome), 542 Berlin Wall Documentation Auschwitz, 851 Basilica di San Lorenzo Center (Berlin), 339 Austria, 75–120 (Florence), 569 Berlin Zoo (Berlin), 341–342 Austrian Federal Railroads Basilica di San Marco Bermuda Bräu (Vienna), 102 (ÖBB), 78–80 (Venice), 589 Bern, 811–818 Austrian Railpass, 50 Basilica di San Pietro Bern Casino, 818 Austria-Slovenia/Croatia (Rome), 543 Bernese Oberland Regional Pass, 52 Basilica di Santa Maria Novella Pass, 796–797 Automobilmuseum (Florence), 569–570 Bernina Express, 836 (Dresden), 378 Basilica di Sant’Antonio Bernisches Historisches Avignon, 294–297 (Padua), 594 Museum, 815 Avila, 703 Basilica of Our Lady (Maast- Bern Symphony Orchestra, 818 Azay-le-Rideau, 287–288 richt), 638–639 Beyer (Zurich), 810 Basilica of Sacré-Coeur Biblioteca–Pinacoteca Ambro- (Paris), 264 siana (Milan), 601–602 (Paris), 275 Basilica of St. Servatius Bierhalle Wolf (Zurich), 810 Back Door (Amsterdam), 630 (Maastricht), 638 Big Ben (London), 404 Baerum Verk (Oslo), 658 25_599518 bindex.qxp 2/8/06 9:04 PM Page 865

INDEX 865

Big Eden (Berlin), 346 Brunate, 605 Caffè Sant’Eustachio Big Mama (Rome), 555 Brunelleschi’s dome (Florence), (Rome), 554 Bijoux Marlene (Monte Carlo), 571 Caffè Torino (Turin), 607 315 Brunswick Monument Caminhos de Ferro Portugueses Bilbao, 703 (Geneva), 830–831 (CP), 669, 673 Binnenhof (The Hague), 634 Brussels, 121, 127–144 Campanile (Leaning Tower Black Friar (London), 414 Brussels Park, 134 of Pisa), 577 Black Out (Rome), 555 Bryggen (Bergen), 663 Campanile di Giotto (Florence), Black Tower (Ceské Bryggen Brukskunst (Bergen), 570–571 Budejovice), 191 667–668 Campanile di San Marco Blås & Knåda (Stockholm), 780 Bryggens Museum, 663 (Venice), 586 Bled, 860 Bucharest, 853 Campidoglio (Rome), 543–544 Blois, 290–291 Bucherer (Geneva), 835 Campo del Príncipe Bloody Tower (London), 408 Buckingham Palace (London), (Granada), 744 Blue Moon Bar (Stockholm), 403–404 Camposanto (Pisa), 577–578 781 Budapest, 497, 502–521 Canal-boat tours, 626 Blues Café (Lisbon), 693 Budapesti Történeti Múzeum Cannes, 246, 302–306 Boarding trains, 59–60 (Budapest History Museum), Canova Café (Rome), 554 Boat tours and cruises, 65–66 509–510 Cantina do Spade (Venice), 593 Boboli Gardens (Florence), 572 Budapest Spring Festival, 498 Capela d’Ossos (Faro), 699 Bon Genie (Geneva), 835 Buddha Bar (Oslo), 659 Capella de Sant Benet Bonnefanten Museum (Maast- Budêjovicky Budvar (Ceské (Barcelona), 752 richt), 639 Budejovice), 191 Capilla de Villaviciosa The Book of Kells (Dublin), Bulgaria, 840–844 (Córdoba), 738 441–442 Bullfighting, Madrid, 721 Capitoline Hill (Rome), 554 Boom Chicago (Amsterdam), Burberry (London), 413 Capitoline Museum (Rome), 629–630 Burg (Bruges), 147 543, 544 Borghese, Pauline Bonaparte, Burgmuseum (Salzburg), 106 Cappella degli Scrovegni statue of, 547 Burgundian Treasure (Padua), 593–594 Borghese Gardens (Rome), 547 (Vienna), 94 Cappella Palatina Botanical Garden Busmann’s Brazil (Dresden), (Palermo), 561 (Geneva), 830 379 Cappelle Medicee Boulevard St-Germain Bus travel, 61 (Florence), 571 (Paris), 264 Butte du Lion (Waterloo), 140 Ca’ Rezzonico (Venice), 586 Boulevard St-Michel Byzantine and Christian Carlsbad (Karlovy Vary), (Paris), 264 Museum (Athens), 467–468 183–187 Bourbon Street (Amsterdam), Carnival (Karnavali), Athens, 630 450 Bourtzi, 476 Cabaret du Casino Ruhl, 311 Carnival, Patras, 483 Bracewells Bar (London), 415 Cabo de Sao Vicente, 698 Carnival of Nice, 244 Gate (Berlin), 337 Ca’ d’Oro (Venice), 586 Carolina Rediviva Brasserie Lipp (Paris), 274 Café Beaubourg (Paris), 274 (Uppsala), 783 Bratislava, 857 Café Central (Madrid), 728 Carpet of Flowers Brazen Head (Dublin), 448 Café Chris (Amsterdam), 630 (Brussels), 122 Brera Picture Gallery Café Cova (Milan), 605 Car rentals, 67 (Milan), 602 Café de Chinitas (Madrid), 729 Carta Club Eurostar, 531 Bridge of (Venice), 587 Café de Flore (Paris), 274 Carta d’Argento, 530 Brindisi, 553 Café de la Opera (Barcelona), Cartaverde, 530 British Airways London Eye 759 Carte Mobilis (Paris), 258 (London), 402 Cafe Keese Ball Paradox Carte Musées et Monuments British Museum (London), 403 (Berlin), 346 (Paris), 269 BritRail Flexipass, 50 Café Milena (Prague), 179 Carte Orange (Paris), 258 BritRail passes, 49, 52, 56 Café Opéra (Stockholm), 781 Carte Passe-Musée (Nice), 308 Bröhan Museum (Berlin), 336 Café Rivoire (Florence), 576 Car travel, 66–67 Brown cafes, Amsterdam, Café Rosati (Rome), 554 Casa Bar (Zurich), 810 630–631 Café Zurich (Barcelona), 759 Casa Bermejo (Toledo), 732 Bruges, 121, 144–151 Caffè de Paris (Rome), 554 Casa Bordados da Madeira Brühlsche Terrasse Caffè Florian (Venice), 592 (Lisbon), 692 (Dresden), 377 25_599518 bindex.qxp 2/8/06 9:04 PM Page 866

866 INDEX

Casa dei Cervi (Herculaneum), Cathedral of St. Pierre Charlottenburg Palace (Berlin), 562 (Geneva), 831 335–336 Casa dei Vettii (Pompeii), 559 Cathedral of St. Vincent, 815 Château d’Azay-le-Rideau, Casa Henrique (Granada), 744 Catherine (Paris), 276 287–288 Casa-Museu Gaudí (Barcelona), Catholic Church of the Meta- Château de Beaulieu (Lau- 755 morphosis (Nafplion), 475 sanne), 821–822 Casa Patas (Madrid), 729 Cattedrale di Como, 606 Château de Chambord, 291 Casa Quintao (Lisbon), 692 Cattedrale di San Giovanni Château de Chaumont, 292 Casa Ramón (Seville), 735 (Turin), 607 Château de Chenonceau, 293 Casa Regional da Ilha Verde Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Château de Versailles, 279–280 (Lisbon), 692 Fiore (Florence), 571 Château Royal d’Amboise, Casa Ruitz (Seville), 736 Cave of the Lakes, 480 288, 289 Casa Telesforo (Toledo), 732 Celetná Crystal (Prague), 180 Château Royal de Blois, Casa y Museo de El Greco Cemetery of Kerameikos 290–291 (Toledo), 731 (Athens), 468 Chaumont-sur-Loire, 292 Casemates (Luxembourg City), Center of Hellenic Tradition Chenonceaux, 292–293 155 (Athens), 471 Chief O’Neill’s (Dublin), 448 Cash, getting, 70–71 Centovalli Railway, 836–837 Chiesa degli Eremitani Casino Gran Madrid, 729 Central (Helsinki), 240–241 (Padua), 594 Casino Oostende (Ostend), 150 Central , climate, 30 Children’s fares and discounts, Castelnuovo (Naples), 558 Centre Belge de la Bande Dess- 48, 57 Castelo de Sao Jorge (Lisbon), inée (Brussels), 135–136 Chinese Pavilion (Stockholm), 683–684 Centre Comercial Barcelona 774 Castelvecchio (Verona), 596 Glòries, 758 , Castle at Castle at Chlemoutsi (Patras), Centre Pompidou (Paris), (Patras), 484 484 265–266 Chocolate Train, 837 Castle of the Counts (Ghent), Centro de Anticuarios Lagasca Chrám sv. Mikuláse 141–142 (Madrid), 728 (Prague), 176 Catedral and Capilla Real Cerná veze (Ceské Budejovice), Chrám sv. Víta (Prague), 173 (Granada), 743 191 Christ Church Cathedral Catedral de Barcelona, Ceské Budejovice, (Dublin), 442 751–752 161, 190–192 Christian Müller Organ Catedral de Sevilla, 734 Cesky Krumlov, 161, 187–190 (Haarlem), 632 Catedral de Toledo, 730 Cesky Krumlov Château, 189 Christiansborg Palace (Copen- Cathédrale de Notre-Dame Cézanne, Paul, 300 hagen), 206–207 (Luxembourg City), 155 Chagall, Marc, Musée National Christianshavn (Copenhagen), Cathédrale des Sts-Michel-et- Message Biblique Marc- 207 Gudule (Brussels), 135 Chagall (Nice), 309 Churchill Arms (London), 414 Cathédrale Notre-Dame des Chambord, 291 Church of Our Lady (Bruges), Doms (Avignon), 296 Champs-Élysées (Paris), 262 147–148 Cathédrale Orthodoxe Russe Changing of the Guard Church of St. Bartholomew St-Nicolas à Nice, 309 (London), 404 (Liège), 152 Cathédrale Ste-Croix (Orléans), Chapelle des Macchabées Citadella (Budapest), 512 282–283 (Geneva), 831 Cité de la Musique (Paris), 276 Cathédrale St-Gatien (Tours), Chapelle du Rosaire Cittie of Yorke (London), 414 285 (Vence), 312 City Park (Budapest), 512 Cathédrale St-Sauveur (Aix-en- Chapelle St-Nicolas (Avignon), Civic Guards Gallery Provence), 300 295 (Amsterdam), 622 Cathedral of Our Lady Chapel of Edward the Confessor Clamores (Madrid), 728–729 (Antwerp), 143 (London), 409 Clarence House (London), 404 Cathedral of Palermo, 560 Chapel of Henry VII Climate, 29–31 Cathedral of St. Andrew (London), 409 Clos-Lucé (Amboise), 289–290 (Patras), 484 Chapel of St. George (Cesky Cloud Castle (Visegrád), 520 Cathedral of St. Clemens Krumlov), 189 Club Cream (Helsinki), 242 (Århus Domkirke), 219–220 The Chapel Royal of St. Peter Club Los Gallos (Seville), 736 Cathedral of St. Dominius ad Vincula (London), 408 Coimbra, 694 Peristil (Split), 846 Charles Bridge (Prague), Colete Encarnado (Vila Franca Cathedral of St. Nicholas 170, 175 de Xira), 670 (Prague), 176 Charles Garden (Budapest), 512 Collezione Peggy Guggenheim (Venice), 587 25_599518 bindex.qxp 2/8/06 9:04 PM Page 867

INDEX 867

Collins Barracks (Dublin), 442 Danish Maritime Museum Donatello bronzes (Padua), 594 Colonne de Juillet (Paris), 263 (Helsingor), 215 Dora Stratou Folk Dance Colosseo (; Rome), Danish State Railways Theater (Athens), 472 544–545 (DSB), 197 Dorotheum (Vienna), 100 Come Prima (Geneva), 835 Death in Venice (Mann), 589 Dresden, 318, 373–379 Comic Opera (Berlin), 346 De Bijenkorf (Amsterdam), 628 Drottningholm Court Theater Como, 605 De Karpershoek (Amsterdam), (Stockholm), 763, 774, 780 Como, Cattedrale di, 606 631 Drottningholm Palace and Como, Lake, 605–606 Delft, 636–637 Theater (Stockholm), 774 Concentration Camp Memorial Den Gamle By (Århus), 220 Dublin, 386, 434–448 (KZ-Gedenkstätte Dachau), Denmark, 193–222 Dublin Castle, 442 368–369 Den Norske Husfliden Dublinia (Dublin), 443 Concertgebouw (Amsterdam), (Oslo), 658 Dublin Woollen Mills, 447 629 Den Norske Opera (Oslo), Dublin Writers Museum, 443 Conciergerie (Paris), 266 658–659 Dubrovnik, 846 Connolly Station (Dublin), 435 DesignTorget (Stockholm), 780 Ducale Palace (Venice), 587 Copenhagen, 193, 199–219 De Steen (Antwerp), 144 Duke of York Square Copenhagen Jazz Festival, 194 Det Hanseatiske Museum (London), 413 Copenhagen JazzHouse, 213 (Bergen), 663 Duomo Córdoba, 737–739 Det Lille Apotek (Copenhagen), Florence, 571 Corinth (Korinthos), 473–474 214 Milan, 602 Corral de la Morería Det Norske Folkloreshowet Pisa, 577 (Madrid), 729 (Oslo), 659 Siena, 579 Cote d’Azur (French Riviera), Deutsche Bahn (36,000km), Duomo Museum (Florence), 245–246 320 570 Couchettes, 40, 42 Deutsche Oper Berlin, 345–346 Dvorákovy sady (Karlovy Vary), Cours Mirabeau (Aix-en- Deutsches Apotheken-Museum 185 Provence), 300 (Heidelberg), 370 Court of Lions (Granada), 742 Deutsches Historisches Covent Garden Market Museum (Berlin), 337 (Berlin), 339 (London), 412 Deutsches Museum (Munich), Echinos, 494 Craft Centre of Ireland 358–359 Edgar Affolter’s Swiss Tradition (Dublin), 446 Deutsches Weihnachtsmuseum (Geneva), 835 Crafts Market (Brussels), 138 (Rothenburg), 383 Edinburgh, 386, 415–428 Crazy Horse Saloon (Paris), 277 Deux Magots (Paris), 274 Edinburgh Castle, 420–421 Credit cards, 71 Diakofto, 479–481 Edinburgh Festival Fringe, 427 Cristallino (Prague), 180 The Diamond Quarter Edinburgh International Croatia, 844–847 (Antwerp), 144 Festival, 388, 426–427 Croatian History Museum Diana Lookout Tower Edinburgh Old Town Weaving (Zagreb), 846 (Karlovy Vary), 186 Company, 426 Croatian National Theater Die Bahn (DB), 31–32 Eduskunta (Finnish Parliament), in Zagreb, 846 Die Halle (Dresden), 378 235–236 Crown Jewels (London), 408 Die Sammlung Berggruen: Edvard Munch Museum Crystal Museum (Liège), 152 Picasso und Seine Zeit (Oslo), 653 Crystal Worlds (Wattens), 118 (Berlin), 336–337 Eglise St-Barthélemy Currency and currency Dining cars, 37, 38 (Liège), 152 exchange, 69–70 Diocletian’s Palace (Split), 846 Egon Schiele Centrum (Cesky Cuvilliés Theater (Munich), 366 Di Rienzo (Rome), 554 Krumlov), 188 Czech Flexipass, 161 Dirndl-Ecke (Munich), 365 Egon Schiele Foundation Czech Philharmonic Discounts, fare, 47–48, 57–58 (Cesky Krumlov), 188 (Prague), 181 Dohány Synagogue Egyptian Museum (Turin), 607 Czech Republic, 159–192 (Budapest), 511 (Paris), 267 Dom (Salzburg Cathedral), 107 Eigerwand, 839 Domkyrkan (Uppsala), 782 Eismeer, 839 Dachau, 368–369 Dom Museum (Salzburg), 107 El Arco de los Cuchilleros - Dahab (Prague), 179 Domplatz (Salzburg), 107 sania de Hoy (Madrid), The Daily News Cafe (Stock- Dom St. Kilian (Würzburg), 380 727–728 holm), 781 Dom St. Maria (Augsburg), 384 El Arenal (Seville), 736 Dandoy (Brussels), 138 Domus Aurea (Rome), 545 El Born (Barcelona), 759 25_599518 bindex.qxp 2/8/06 9:04 PM Page 868

868 INDEX

El Corte Inglés (Barcelona), 757 EurailDrive Pass, 56 Fine Arts Museum, Zurich, El Corte Inglés (Madrid), 727 Eurail Finland Pass, 226 807–808 El Corte Inglés (Seville), 735 Eurail France ‘n Pass, 706 Finland, 223–242 El Greco, 730, 731 Eurail Greek Pass, 453 Finnish National Gallery El Patio Sevillano (Seville), 736 Eurail Holland Pass, 612 (Helsinki), 236 El Postigo (Seville), 735 Eurail Hungary Pass, 498 Finnish National Opera El Rastro (Madrid), 727 Eurail Rail Pass, 642 (Helsinki), 242 El Tablao de Carmen Eurailpasses, 50–56, 74 Finnish Parliament (Eduskunta), (Barcelona), 760 Eurailpass Flexi, 74 235–236 Engelen (Bergen), 668 Eurail Selectpass, 51–52, 74 Fire Tower (Veszprém), 523 Engelen (Stockholm), 781 Eurail Selectpass Drive, 56 First Cemetery (Athens), Englischer Garten (Munich), Eurail Spain–Portugal Pass, 706 468–469 351, 361–362 Eurail Spain Rail ’n Drive, 706 First class, 35–36 English Garden (Geneva), 830 The euro, 69–70 Fish Auction (Gothenburg), 788 Ensor, James, house of EuroCity (EC) trains, 35 Fish Church (Gothenburg), 788 (Ostend), 150–151 Eurolines, 61 Fiskerkylyngen (Frederikshavn), Ephesus, 862 Europa Center (Berlin), 344 221 Epidaurus, 477, 478–479 European East Pass, 53 Fisketorget (Bergen), 666 Epidaurus Festival, 450, 479 Euro Spain Pass, 706 Flåm, 664 Epidaurus Festival Museum, Eurovacations, 69 Flamenco, Madrid, 729 478 Florence, 528–529, 562–576 Equinox (London), 415 Flower Clock (Geneva), 830 Erechtheion (Athens), 466 Fado, 690–691 Folies-Bergère (Paris), 277 Eremitani, Chiesa degli Family discounts, 57–58 Folkart Centrum (Budapest), (Padua), 594 Farnese Armory (Naples), 557 516 Ergani (Thessaloniki), 494 Farnese Gardens (Rome), 547 Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi Ergasterio Kouklis (Thessa- Faro, 671, 697, 699 (Rome), 545 loniki), 494 Far Out (Berlin), 346 Fontana del Moro (Rome), 545 Escolania (Montserrat), 761 Fasching (Munich), 318 Fontana di Nettuno (Rome), Espai Barroc (Barcelona), 759 Fat Mo’s Music Club 545 Esplanadi (Helsinki), 240 (Budapest), 517–518 Fontana di Trevi (Rome), Estaçao Cais do Sodré Fauchon (Paris), 276 545–546 (Lisbon), 680 Feira da Ladra (Lisbon), 692 Fonte Gaia (Siena), 578 Estaçao Entrecampos Felipe Suarez (Toledo), 732 Fonte Luminosa (Lisbon), 687 (Lisbon), 680 Ferenczy Museum (Szentendre), Fonts Baptismaux (Liège), 152 Estaçao Oriente (Lisbon), 680 518–519 Food and cuisine, suggested Estaçao Rossio (Lisbon), 678 Feria de Sevilla (Seville Fair), itinerary for food lovers, Estaçao Santa Apolonia 704 14–17 (Lisbon), 678, 680 Fernsehturm (Berlin), 347 Foro Imperiali (Rome), 546 Estaçio Barcelona-Sants, 745 Ferries, 61–66 Foro Romano (Rome), Estacio de França (Barcelona), Feskekörka (Gothenburg), 788 546–547, 554 748 Festas dos Santos Populares Fortaleza de Sagres, 698 Estación Atocha (Madrid), 714 (Lisbon), 670 Fortrees Marienberg Estación Charmartín (Madrid), Festetics Mansion (Keszthely), (Würzburg), 380 714–715 526 Fortress Museum Estación Faro, 697–698 Festival d’Automne (Paris), 244 (Salzburg), 106 Estación Santa Justa Festival d’Avignon, 244 Forum (Pompeii), 560 (Seville), 732 The Festival of the Five-Petaled Forum of Augustus (Rome), 546 Estates’ Theater (Prague), 181 Rose (Cesky Krumlov), 159 Forum of Julius Caesar Esterházykeller (Vienna), 101 Festival Theatre (Edinburgh), (Rome), 546 Estonia, 227 427 Forum of Nerva (Rome), 546 Estoril Festival, 670 Festspielhaus (Salzburg), 112 Forum of Trajan (Rome), 546 Esztergom, 519–520 Festung Hohensalzburg Forum Shopping Center Esztergom Cathedral, 519 (Salzburg), 106 (Helsinki), 242 Eszterházy Wine Cellar Festung Marienberg Fotballpuben (Bergen), 668 (Szigliget), 525 (Würzburg), 380 Foundation Maeght (St-Paul- Ethnographical Museum Fêtes de Genève (Geneva), 794 de-Vence), 311–312 (Budapest), 510 Fiesta de San Isidro Fountain of Neptune (Madrid), 704 (Florence), 568 25_599518 bindex.qxp 2/8/06 9:04 PM Page 869

INDEX 869

Fountain of Neptune Galleria Palatina (Florence), Göteborgs Maritima Centrum (Rome), 545 572 (Gothenburg), 788–789 Fountain of Sampson (Ceské Galleriet (Bergen), 667 Göteborgsoperan (Gothen- Budejovice), 191 Gamla Stan (Stockholm), 776 burg), 792 Fountain of the Four Rivers Gamla Uppsala, 783 Gothenburg, 783–792 (Rome), 545 Gamla Upsala Museum, 783 Gothic Chapel of St. Hubert Fountain of the Moor Gamle Bergen, 665 (Amboise), 289 (Rome), 545 Garden on the Ramparts Gotische Zaal (Bruges), 147 Fouquet’s (Paris), 274 (Prague), 177 Grachten Festival (Amsterdam), Frammuseet (Oslo), 655 Gardens of Versailles, 280 609 France, 243–316 Gasteig (Munich), 366 Granada, 739–744 weather, 30 Gate Theatre (Dublin), 448 Grand Canal (Venice), 588 France Rail ‘n Drive Pass, Gateway of Justice (Granada), Grande Ecourie (Versailles), 56, 247, 248 740, 742 280 France Railpass, 247 Gdansk, 851 Grandhotel Pupp (Karlovy Frank, Anne, house of (Amster- Gellért Hegy (Budapest), 512 Vary), 186 dam), 622–623 Gemäldegalerie (Berlin), 340 Grand-Place (Brussels), 133 Frans Hals Museum (Haarlem), Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister Grands Appartements 632 (Dresden), 376 (Versailles), 280 Frauenkirche (Dresden), Gemeentemuseum Den Haag Grand Théâtre (Geneva), 835 376–377 (The Hague), 634 Grand Trianon (Versailles), 280 Fraumünster (Zurich), 806 Generalife (Granada), 742 Gran Teatre del Frederikshavn, 194, 221–222 Geneva, 824–836 (Barcelona), 759 Free City of Christiania (Copen- Geneva, Lake (Lac Léman), 832 Graslei (Ghent), 142 hagen), 207 Gent Sint-Pieters Station Gravensteen (Ghent), 141–142 Frilandsmuseet (Copenhagen), (Ghent), 141 Graveyard (Nice), 309 207 Geoffrey (Tailor) Highland Great Britain, 29–30, 386–428 Fuggerei (Augsburg), 384 Crafts (Edinburgh), 426 Great Church (Haarlem), 632 Fundació Antoni Tàpies Georg Bräu (Berlin), 347 Great Church (Stockholm), 776 (Barcelona), 752 German Christmas Museum , 449–495 Fundació Joan Miró (Rothenburg), 383 Greece Rail Pass, 50 (Barcelona), 752–753 German Historical Museum Greek Agora and Roman Forum Funen Festival (Odense), 194 (Berlin), 337 (Thessaloniki), 491 Funen Village/Den Fynske German Pharmacy Museum Greek Flexipass Rail ‘n Fly, Landsby (Odense), 217 (Heidelberg), 370 57, 453 Fürstenbaumuseum German Rail ’n Drive, 56 Greek National Opera, 471 (Würzburg), 381 , 30, 317–385 Green Vaults (Dresden), 374 Fürstenzug (Dresden), 377 Ghent (Gent), 122, 140–142 Grieghallen (Bergen), 668 Giardini di Boboli (Florence), Grinzing (Vienna), 102 572 Groeninge Museum Galeria d’Arte Rinascimento Gilli’s (Florence), 576 (Bruges), 147 (Amsterdam), 628 Giotto’s Bell Tower (Florence), Grosser/Berliner Trödelmarkt Galerian Complex (Thessa- 570–571 und Kunstmarkt (Berlin), 345 loniki), 490 Gizella Chapel (Veszprém), Grossmünster (Zurich), Galerie Neue Meister 522–523 806–807 (Dresden), 376 Glacier Express, 836 Grote Kerk (Haarlem), 632 Galeries Lafayette (Paris), Globus (Bern), 817 Grote Markt (Haarlem), 631 275–276 Globus-Grand Passage Grünes Gewölbe (Dresden), Galeries Royales St-Hubert (Geneva), 835 374 (Brussels), 138 Goldenes Dachl (Innsbruck), Gruppe&Spar, 320 Galleria Borghese (Rome), 116 Gruuthuse Museum 547–548 Golden House of Nero (Bruges), 147 Galleria degli Uffizi (Florence), (Rome), 545 Gübelin Jewelers (Geneva), 835 570 Golden Pass Line, 837 Guldhedens Våttentorn Galleria dell’Accademia Gondola rides, Venice, 589 (Gothenburg), 788 (Florence), 570 Götaplatsen (Gothenburg), 788 Gurten, 816 Galleria dell’Accademia Göteborgs Konstmuseum (Venice), 587 (Gothenburg), 788 25_599518 bindex.qxp 2/8/06 9:04 PM Page 870

870 INDEX

Heuston Station (Dublin), 435 Hundertwasser Haus Haarlem, 609, 631–632 Hévíz, 527 (Vienna), 95 Hadeland Glassverk (Oslo), 658 High season, 29 Hungarian Flexipass, 50 Hadrian’s Villa (near Tivoli), 555 High-speed trains, 33–36 Hungarian National Museum The Hague, 632–637 Historiska Museet (Stockholm), (Budapest), 510 The Hague Municipal Museum, 775 Hungarian State Opera House 634 Hlavní nádrazí (Prague), 167 (Budapest), 511, 517 Hall of Mirrors (Versailles), 280 Hofbräuhaus (Munich), 366 Hungary, 496–527 Hall of the Knights (The Hague), Hofburg (Vienna), 93–95 Hungerburg, 117 609, 634 Hofburg Kaiserappartements Hallwylska Museet (Stock- (Vienna), 93 holm), 774–775 Hofburg Silberkammer Iarnrod Eireann, 431 Hamleys (London), 413 (Vienna), 93 Ibsen, Henrik, apartment Hanover Grand (London), 415 Hofgarten Cafe (Innsbruck), of (Oslo), 654 Harlem Jazz Club (Barcelona), 120 Icebar (Stockholm), 781 759 Hofkirche (Innsbruck), 116–117 Iconos (Seville), 735 Harrods (London), 413 Hohensalzburg Fortress Iglesia de Santo Tomé Harry’s Bar (Rome), 554 (Salzburg), 106, 109, 112 (Toledo), 731 Harry’s Bar (Venice), 592–593 Hohenschwangau Castle Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Harry’s New York Bar (Munich), 368 Monte do Carmo do Faro, (Paris), 279 Holland Casino Scheveningen, 699 Haus der Musik (Vienna), 95 635 Igreja de Santo António Havel’s Market (Prague), 180 Holland Rail Pass, 50 (Lagos), 699 H.C. Andersen’s Barndomshjem Holló Folkart Gallery Ile de la Cité (Paris), 262 (Andersen’s Childhood Home; (Budapest), 516 Ile Rousseau (Geneva), 830 Odense), 218 Holmenkollen Ski Festival Ile Ste-Marguerite H.C. Andersen’s Hus (Odense), (near Oslo), 641 (Cannes), 304 218 Holocaust Memorial Ile St-Honorat (Cannes), 305 Heaven (London), 415 (Berlin), 337 Ile St-Louis (Paris), 263 Hegymagas, 524–525 Holyrood Park (Edinburgh), 422 Iles de Lérins, 304 Heidelberg, 318, 369–373 Holy Shroud (Turin), 607 Il Piccolo Mondo (Venice), 593 Heidelberg Castle, 370 Hoppe (Amsterdam), 630 I. M. Pei pyramid (Paris), Heiliggeistkirche (Heidelberg), Hospital de Santa Caridad 268 371 (Seville), 734 Imperial Apartments Heimen Husflid (Oslo), 658 Hôtel des Invalides (Paris), 267 (Vienna), 93 Heinen (Amsterdam), 628 Hôtel de Ville, Brussels, 135 Imperial Forums (Rome), 546 Helikon library (Keszthely), 526 Hôtel Groslot (Orléans), 283 Imperial Silver Collection Hellbrunn Palace (Salzburg), Hotel R*ze (Rose; Cesky (Vienna), 93 108–109 Krumlov), 188 Ingreja de Santa Maria Hellenic American Union Hotel Thermal (Karlovy Vary), (Lisbon), 685 (Athens), 471 184 Inlandsbanan, 764 Helmos, Mount, 480 House of Livia (Rome), 547 Inner Court (The Hague), 634 Helsingor (Hamlet’s Castle), House of the Mysteries Innsbruck, 76–77, 113–120 194, 214–215 (Pompeii), 559–560 InterCity (IC) trains, 35 Helsinki, 230–242 House of the Vestal Virgins International Film Festival Helsinki City Museum, 236 (Rome), 547 (Cannes), 302, 305 Helsinki Festival, 224 House of the Vettii (Pompeii), International Palace Tourna- Henie Onstad Kunstsenter 559 ment (Visegrád), 498 (Oslo), 652–653 Houses of Parliament (London), Ireland, 29, 428–448 The Henry Wood Promenade 404–405 Irish Cat Pub (Budapest), 518 Concerts (London), 388 Hrampametnik Alexander Irish Explorer Rail and Bus, 431 Herculaneum, 562 Nevski (Sofia), 843 Irish Explorer Rail Only, 430 Herend, 523 Hrvatski Povijesni Muzej Istanbul, 862 Herend Museum, 523 (Zagreb), 846 IT (Amsterdam), 630 Herend Shop (Budapest), 516 Hrvatsko Narodno Kazaliste u Itaca (Barcelona), 758 Herr Nilsen (Oslo), 659 Zagrebu (Zagreb), 846 Italy, 528–608 Heurige (wine taverns), Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Italy Rail ‘n Drive, 56 Vienna, 102 Modern Art (Dublin), 443 Itineraries, suggested, 1–23 Hugo, Victor, Maison de (Paris), 263–264 25_599518 bindex.qxp 2/8/06 9:04 PM Page 871

INDEX 871

Kavárna Obecní d*m Ku’damm (Kurfürstendamm; Jahn-Markl (Salzburg), 111 (Prague), 179 Berlin), 344 Jamboree (Barcelona), 759 Kavárna (Cafe) Slavia Kultfabrik (Munich), 367 James Ensorhuis (Ostend), (Prague), 179 Kungliga Operan (Stockholm), 150–151 Kensington Palace (London), 781 James Joyce Pub (Zurich), 811 405 Kungliga Slottet & Museums James Pringle Woolen Mill Keszthely, 525–527 (Stockholm), 775 (Edinburgh), 426 Kiasma (Helsinki), 236 Kungsportsavenyn (Gothen- Jardin Anglais (Geneva), 830 Kilkenny Design Centre burg), 788 Jardin Botanique (Geneva), 830 (Dublin), 447 KunstHausWien (Vienna), 95 Jardin Exotique (Monte Carlo), Kilmainham Gaol Historical Kunsthistorisches Museum 315 Museum (Dublin), 443 (Vienna), 95 Jazzclub Unterfahrt (Munich), King Matthias Museum Kunstmuseum (Bern), 815–816 367 (Visegrád), 520 Kupferstich-Kabinett (Dresden), Jazzland (Vienna), 102 King’s Theatre (Edinburgh), 427 374, 376 Jelmoli Department Store Kinsky Palace (Prague), 176 Kurpfälzisches Museum (Zurich), 810 Kláster sv. Anezky ceské (Heidelberg), 371 Jet d’Eau (Geneva), 829 (Prague), 175 Kurvenstar (Berlin), 348 Jewish History Museum Kláster sv. Jirí na Prazském KZ-Gedenkstätte Dachau (Con- (Thessaloniki), 491 hrade (St. George’s Convent centration Camp Memorial), The Jewish Museum at Prague Castle), 175–176 368–369 (Prague), 174 Klötzlikeller (Bern), 818 , Kloverhuset (Bergen), 667 339–340 Kobenhavn Hoved Banegaard La Balajo (Paris), 278 Joalharia do Carmo (Copenhagen), 202 Lace Center (Bruges), 148 (Lisbon), 692 Komische Oper (Berlin), 346 La Condamine (Monaco), 313 Jodlerwirt (Munich), 367 Kongeliege Stalde & Kareter La Coupole (Paris), 274 Joe’s Wirtshaus zum Löwen (Copenhagen), 207 La Esquinita (Granada), 744 (Berlin), 347 Kongens Nytorv (Copenhagen), La Fondation Angladon-Dubru- Joy Eslava (Madrid), 728 206 jeaud (Avignon), 296–297 Judería (Córdoba), 738 Königstrasse (Dresden), 378 La Fontaine (Copenhagen), 213 Jüdisches Museum Berlin, Koninginnedag (Amsterdam), La Giralda (Seville), 734 339–340 611 Lagos, 671, 698–699 Jungfraujoch, 838–839 Koninklijke Porceleyne Fles Lalique (Paris), 275 Jutland, 219–222 (Delft), 637 Lambert van Meerten Koninklijk Kabinet van (Delft), 637 Schilderijen (The Hague), 634 Länder-Tickets, 321 KaDeWe (Berlin), 344 Koninklijk Museum voor Landesmuseum (Zurich), 807 Kaiserappartements Schone Kunsten Antwerpen La Paloma (Barcelona), 760 (Innsbruck), 116 (Antwerp), 143 La Rambla (Les Rambles; Kaiserliche Hofburg Koninklijk Paleis (Amsterdam), Barcelona), 754 (Innsbruck), 116 623 L’Archiduc (Brussels), 139 Kaiser-Wilhelm Gedächt- Kon-Tiki Museum (Konbn), 655 Largo das Portas do Sol niskirche (Berlin), 340–341 Kontorget Pub (Bergen), 668 (Lisbon), 684 Kalavryta, 479–481 Konzerthaus Berlin, 345 La Rinascente (Florence), 575 Kalke Village (Vienna), 95 Korenlei (Ghent), 142 La Sagrada Família (Thisbn), Kalkhoven (Amsterdam), 630 Korinthos (Corinth), 473–474 753 Kantcentrum (Bruges), 148 Kostel sv. Jirí (Prague), 174 La Scala (Milan), 604 Kapital (Madrid), 728 Központi Vásárcsarnok The Last Supper (Milan), 602 Karlovy Vary (Carlsbad), (Budapest), 516 Laterna Magika (Prague), 160, 183–187 Krakow, 851 181–182 Karlstejn Castle, 160, 182 Královská zahrada Latin Quarter (Paris), 264 Karl*v most (Prague), 170, 175 (Prague), 177 La Tuile à Loup (Paris), 275 Károly kert (Budapest), 512 Královsky palác (Prague), Laurenziana Library (Florence), KAT (Copenhagen), 213 173–174 569 Käthe-Kollwitz Museum Kriminalmuseum (Rothenburg), Lausanne, 818–824 (Berlin), 341 383 Lausanne Cathédrale, 822–823 Kaufleuten (Zurich), 810 Kronborg Slot (Helsingor), La Vinya del Senyor Kauppatori (Helsinki), 240 194, 214–215 (Barcelona), 758–759 25_599518 bindex.qxp 2/8/06 9:04 PM Page 872

872 INDEX

Leaning Tower of Pisa, 577 Loggia del Consiglio Mannerheim Museum Le Bilboquet/Club St-Germain (Verona), 595 (Helsinki), 237 (Paris), 277–278 Logis du roi (Amboise), 289 Manufacture Belge de Dentelle Le Château (Nice), 308 Loire Valley, 244, 280–293 (Brussels), 138 Le Dancing de la Coupole London, 386, 393–415 The Marais (Paris), 263 (Geneva), 836 London , 414 Marciano Museum Le Falstaff (Brussels), 140 London Symphony Orchestra, (Venice), 589 Le Francis (Geneva), 836 414 Maremagnum (Barcelona), 758 Le Fumoir (Paris), 279 The Long Hall (Dublin), 448 Margit Kovács Museum Le Grand Café (Lausanne), 824 Loos American Bar (Szentendre), 518 Le Louvre des Antiquaires (Vienna), 101 Mariakirke (Bergen), 665 (Paris), 275 Loretta’s Garden (Berlin), 347 Marians’ Jazzroom (Bern), 818 Léman, Lac (Lake Geneva), 832 Lorry (Oslo), 659 Maribor, 860 Le Marais (Paris), 263 Los Tarantos (Barcelona), 760 Marienkirche (Würzburg), 380 Leopold Museum (Vienna), 96 The Louvre (Paris), 268 Marienlyst Slot (Helsingor), Lérins Islands, 304 Love Parade (Berlin), 318, 347 215 Les Alyscamps (Arles), 298 Ludwig Múzeum (Ludwig Mario Buccellati (Florence), Les Arènes Romaines Museum of Contemporary 575 (Arles), 298 Art), 510 Maritime Museum (Amster- Les Bacchantes (Paris), 278 Lusitania Trenhotel, 40 dam), 624 Les Bains (Paris), 278 Luso (Lisbon), 691 The Market Bar (Dublin), 448 Le Scimmie (Milan), 604 Lutheran Cathedral (Helsinki), Market Square (Helsinki), 240 Les Egouts (Sewers of Paris), 236–237 Markt (Bruges), 146 270 Lux (Lisbon), 693 Marktgasse (Bern), 814 Les Grands Appartements du Luxembourg, 122 Marktplatz (Heidelberg), Palais (Monte Carlo), 314 Luxembourg City, 154–158 370–371 Les Marolles (Brussels), 136 Luz de Gas (Barcelona), Marktplatz (Würzburg), 380 Le Sounds (Brussels), 139 759–760 Marolles district (Brussels), 136 Liberation Monument Marstallmuseum (Munich), (Budapest), 512 360–361 Liberty (London), 413 Maastricht, 637–639 Martian (Seville), 735 The Library (London), 415 Macedonia, 847–849 Martini Scala Club (Venice), Lido de Paris (Paris), 277 Mad (Lausanne), 824 593 Liège, 122, 151–154 Madeira House (Lisbon), 692 Masaryk Station (Prague), Limmat Quai (Zurich), 805 Madison Nightclub 167, 170 Lindenhof (Zurich), 806 (Gothenburg), 792 Matisse, Henri, Chapelle du Linke Wienzeile (Vienna), Madonna and Child Rosaire (Vence), 312 100–101 (Michelangelo), 148 Matthias Church (Budapest), Linnaeus Garden & Museum Madrid, 702, 711–732 511, 517 (Uppsala), 782 Madurodam (The Hague), 634 Mátyás Templom (Budapest), Lion Mound (Waterloo), 140 Maggio Musicale (Florence), 511, 517 Lisbon, 677–697 575 Mauermuseum—Haus am Liseberg Park (Gothenburg), Magyar Allami Operaház (Berlin), 789, 792 (Budapest), 511, 517 339, 340 Liseberg Tower (Gothenburg), Mainfränkisches Museum Mauritshuis (The Hague), 634 789 (Würzburg), 380–381 Maximilianeum (Innsbruck), The Little Mermaid (Copen- Maisel Synagogue 116 hagen), 210 (Prague), 174 Maximilianstrasse (Augsburg), Livrustkammaren (Stockholm), Maison Antoine (Brussels), 138 384 775 Maison Bertaux (London), 412 Max Krug (Munich), 365 Ljubljana, 859–860 Maison De Victor Hugo Mayer am Pfarrplatz (Vienna), Local trains, 35 (Paris), 263–264 102 Lodenbaur (Innsbruck), 120 Maison Jeanne-d’Arc (Orléans), Medici Chapels (Florence), 571 Loden-Frey (Munich), 365 283–284 Meeting House Square Market Loewe (Madrid), 728 Maison Tavel (Geneva), 831 (Dublin), 447 Loggia dei Cavalli (Venice), 589 Maloe Melo (Amsterdam), 630 Megaron Moussikis Loggia dei Lanzi (Florence), Mann, Thomas, 589 (Athens), 471 568 Manneken-Pis statue Meissener Porzellan am (Brussels), 133, 134 Fürstenzug (Dresden), 377 25_599518 bindex.qxp 2/8/06 9:04 PM Page 873

INDEX 873

Melissinos, Stavros, 471 Morrison’s Music Pub Musée des Beaux-Arts Melkweg (Amsterdam), 630 (Budapest), 518 (Nice), 309 Memling Museum (Prague), 180 Musée des Beaux-Arts (Bruges), 147 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Orléans), 284 Memorial de la Déportation (Lisbon), 685 Musée des Beaux-Arts (Paris), 262–263 Moulin Rouge (Paris), 277 (Tours), 285–286 Mercato Centrale (Florence), Mount Pilatus Cog Railway, Musée des Cires (Waterloo), 575 838 140 Mercato della Paglia Mount St. Peter (Maastricht), Musée des Plans-Reliefs (Florence), 575 639 (Paris), 267 Mercato Nuovo (Florence), 575 Mozarteum (Salzburg), 112 Musée des Tapisseries (Aix-en- Mercato San Lorenzo festival (Würzburg), Provence), 301 (Florence), 575 382 Musée d’Orsay (Paris), 267–268 Metamorphosis, Catholic Mozart Geburtshaus (Mozart’s Musée du Baccarat (Paris), 275 Church of the (Nafplion), 475 Birthplace; Salzburg), 108 Musée du Cristal (Liège), 152 Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba, Mozart-Wohnhaus (Mozart’s Musée du Louvre (Paris), 268 737–738 Residence; Salzburg), 108 Musée du Palais du Prince Michael Kienscherff Mr. Pickwick Pub (Geneva), 836 (Monte Carlo), 315 (Heidelberg), 371 MUMOK (Museum of Modern Musée du Petit Palais Michelangelo’s dome (Rome), Art Stiftung Ludwig Wien; (Avignon), 296 543 Vienna), 96–97 Musée National Auguste Rodin Midsummer Eve (Sweden), 763 Munch, Edvard, 653, 665, 807 (Paris), 268–269 Milan, 530, 596–608 Münchner Puppenstuben und Musée National d’Art Moderne Military Tattoo (Edinburgh), Zinnfiguren-Kabinett (Paris), 266 388, 427 (Munich), 365 Musée National de Monaco Milos (Thessaloniki), 494 Münchner Stadtmuseum (Monte Carlo), 315–316 Mini-Europe (Brussels), 136 (Munich), 359 Musée National d’Histoire et Mirador Torre de Collserola Munich, 318, 349–369 d’Art (Luxembourg City), 155 (Barcelona), 751 Munich Philharmonic Musée National Message Miró, Joan, Fundació Orchestra, 366 Biblique Marc-Chagall (Barcelona), 752–753 Munich Zoo, 362 (Nice), 309 Mlynská kolonáda (Karlovy Münsterhof (Zurich), 806 Musée Picasso (Paris), 269 Vary), 185 Musée d’Anthropologie Préhis- Musées Royaux des Beaux-Arts Moderna Museet (Stockholm), torique (Monte Carlo), 315 de Belgique (Brussels), 134 775 Musée d’Art Ancien Musée Wellington (Waterloo), Modiano Market (Thessaloniki), (Brussels), 134 140 491 Musée d’Art et Histoire Musei Vaticani (Rome), Molly’s Fair City (Barcelona), (Geneva), 832 548–549 759 Musée d’Art Moderne Museo Archeologico Nazionale Monaco, 313 (Brussels), 134 (Naples), 557 Monaco-Ville, 313 Musée de la Castre Museo Archeologico Regionale Monasterio de las Descalzas (Cannes), 304 (Palermo), 561 Reales (Madrid), 719–720 Musée de la Mer (Cannes), 304 Museo Arqueológico Nacional Monasterio de San Juan de los Musée de l’Ariana (Geneva), (Madrid), 720 Reyes (Toledo), 731 832–833 Museo Arqueológico Provincial Monastery of Agia Lavra, 480 Musée de l’Arles et de la (Córdoba), 738 Monastery of the Great Cave, Provence, 298–299 Museo Barbier-Mueller Art Pre- 480 Musée de l’Armée (Paris), 267 colombí (Barcelona), 753 Mönchsberg, 109 Musée de l’Art Brut (Lausanne), Museo Bellas Artes en la Mondonovo (Venice), 591 821–822 Alhambra (Granada), 742 Money matters, 69–72 Musée de l’Art Wallon Museo Capitolino (Rome), Monte Carlo, 313 (Liège), 151 543, 544 Monte Carlo Beach, 313 Musée de la Vie Wallonne Museo Civico Correr (Venice), Montenegro, 856 (Liège), 152 587–588 Montmartre (Paris), 264–265 Musée de la Ville (Brussels), Museo Civico di Padova Montserrat, 760–761 133–134 (Padua), 594 Morrison’s Irish Pub Musée de l’Océanographie Museo da Fundacao Calouste (Cannes), 306 (Monte Carlo), 315 Gulbenkian (Lisbon), 693 25_599518 bindex.qxp 2/8/06 9:04 PM Page 874

874 INDEX

Museo de Bellas Artes de Museum of Byzantine Culture Nationaal Scheepvaartmuseum Córdoba, 738–739 (Thessaloniki), 491 (Antwerp), 144 Museo degli Argenti (Florence), Museum of Contemporary Art National Archaeological 572 (Helsinki), 236 Museum Museo de la Alhambra Museum of Fine Arts Athens, 469 (Granada), 742 (Vienna), 95–96 Naples, 557 Museo de la Real Academia de Museum of Finnish Art Sofia, 843 Bellas Artes de San Fernando (Helsinki), 236 National Gallery (London), (Madrid), 720 Museum of Foreign Art 405–406 Museo della Santissima (Helsinki), 236, 238–239 National Gallery (Prague), 175 Sindone (Turin), 607 Museum of Islamic Art National Gallery of Ireland Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Athens), 467 (Dublin), 443–444 (Florence), 570 Museum of Modern Art National Gallery of Scotland Museo del Prado (Madrid), (Stockholm), 775 (Edinburgh), 421 720–722 Museum of National Antiquities National Maritime Museum Museo de Santa Cruz (Stockholm), 775 (Antwerp), 144 (Toledo), 731 Museum of Nymphenburg Nationalmuseet (Copenhagen), Museo di San Marco (Florence), Porcelain (Munich), 361 207–208 572 Museum of Silver (Florence), National Museum (Ljubljana), Museo e Gallerie Nazionale di 572 859–860 Capodimonte (Naples), 557 Museum of the City (Brussels), Nationalmuseum (Stockholm), Museo Lázaro Galdiano 133–134 776–777 (Madrid), 722 Museum of the Electoral Palati- National Museum & Gallery Museo Municipal de Faro, 700 nate (Heidelberg), 371 of the Capodimonte Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Museum of the History of the (Naples), 557 Reina Sofia (Madrid), Olympic Games of Antiquity National Museum of Art 722–723 (Olympia), 482 (Stockholm), 776–777 Museo Nacional d’Art de The Museum of the Jewish National Museum of Art and Catalunya (Barcelona), 754 Presence in Thessaloniki, 491 History (Luxembourg City), Museon Arlaten (Arles), 299 Museum of the Olympic Games 155 Museo Nazionale del Bargello (Olympia), 482 National Museum of Finland (Florence), 569 Museum of Walloon Art (Helsinki), 237 Museo Nazionale di San (Liège), 151 National Museum of Ireland Martino (Naples), 558 Museum of Walloon Life (Dublin), 444 Museo Nazionale di Villa Giulia (Liège), 152 National Museum of San (Etruscan; Rome), 549 Museu Municipal Dr. José For- Martino (Naples), 558 Museo Provincial de Bellas mosinho (Lagos), 699 National Museum of Scotland Artes de Sevilla (Seville), Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga (Edinburgh), 421–422 734–735 (Lisbon), 687–688 Nationaltheater (Munich), 366 Museo Storico (Rome), 543 Museu Nacional dos Coches National Theater (Prague), 181 Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza (Lisbon), 686–687 National Theater Ballet (Madrid), 723 (Barcelona), 754 (Prague), 181 Museu Antóniano (Lisbon), 684 Musik Hug (Zurich), 810 Nationaltheatret (Oslo), 658 Museu da Fundaçao Calouste Muziekgebouw aan ‘t IJ Natural History Museum Gulbenkian (Lisbon), 687 (Amsterdam), 629 (London), 406 Museu d’Art Contemporani de Muziektheater (Amsterdam), Natzionalen Archeologicheski Barcelona, 753 629 Musei (Sofia), 843 Museu de Marinha Mycenae, 477–478 Nederlandse Spoorwegen (Lisbon), 686 Mythen Quai (Zurich), 805 (Netherlands Railways/NS), Museu de Montserrat, 761 611 Museum der Moderne Salzburg Nemzeti Múzeum (Budapest), Mönchsberg, 109 Nachtcafe (Munich), 367 510 Museum Het Rembrandthuis Nádrazí Holesovice Néprajzi Múzeum (Budapest), (Amsterdam), 623 (Prague), 167 510 Museum of Antiquities Nafplion, 474–479 Nestos river valley, 494–495 (Stockholm), 775 Naples, 556–562 The Netherlands, 609–639 Museum of Art & History Národní divadlo (Prague), 181 Netherlands Dance Theater (Geneva), 832 Nasjonalgalleriet (Oslo), (Amsterdam), 629 653–654 25_599518 bindex.qxp 2/8/06 9:04 PM Page 875

INDEX 875

Netherlands Opera (Amsterdam), Oceanario de Lisboa Oude Kerk (Old Church) 629 (Lisbon), 688 Amsterdam, 623 Neue Pinakothek (Munich), 359 Octagon (Thessaloniki), 491 Delft, 636 Neues Palais (Potsdam), 349 Octave of Our Lady of Luxem- Our Dynamic Earth Neuhaus (Brussels), 138 bourg (Luxembourg City), (Edinburgh), 422 Neuschwanstein (Munich), 155 Our Lady, Church of (Dresden), 318, 367–368 Odense, 194, 215–219 376–377 Neustadt (New City), Salzburg, Odense Tourist Bureau, 217 Ö.W. (Österreichische Werkstat- 106 Odeon (Amsterdam), 630 ten; Vienna), 100 New Castle (Naples), 558 O’Donoghue’s (Dublin), 448 Oyster Cards (London), 398 New Market (Florence), 575 Off season, 29 New Sacristy (Florence), 571 Ohrid, 848 Nice, 246, 306–312 Okresní Muzeum (Cesky Package tours, 69 Niederkirchnerstrasse Krumlov), 188 Padua, 593–594 (Berlin), 339 Oktoberfest (Munich), 318, 362 Palace of Arts (Budapest), 517 Nieuwe Kerk (New Church), Old Church (Oude Kerk), Delft, Palace of Holyroodhouse Delft, 636–637 636 (Edinburgh), 422 Night trains, 37–40 Old Church (Amsterdam), 623 Palace of the Conservatori (Berlin), 338 Old Jewish Cemetery (Prague), (Rome), 543, 544 Nobel Peace Prize Ceremony 174–175 Palace of the Grand Dukes (Oslo), 641 Old Man’s (Budapest), 518 (Luxembourg City), 155 Nordiska Galleriet (Stockholm), Old- Palace of the Normanni 780 (Prague), 175 (Palermo), 560 Nordiska Museet (Stockholm), Old Town (Alstadt; Zurich), 806 Palace of the Prince-Bishops 777 Old Town (Vanalinn; Tallinn), (Liège), 152 Norelene (Venice), 591 227 Palacio Gaviria (Madrid), 728 Norsk Sjofartsmuseum Old Town Square (Prague), 176 Palacio Museo de Viana (Oslo), 656 Oliver St. John Gogarty (Córdoba), 738 North Sea Jazz Festival (Dublin), 448 Palacio Nacional de Pena (Rotterdam), 609 Oliver Trist (Zurich), 811 (Sintra), 696 Norway, 640–668 Olympia, 481–483 Palacio Nacional de Sintra, 696 Norway Designs (Oslo), 658 (Helsinki), 237 Palacio Real (Madrid), 723–724 Norwegian Folk Museum Olympia Theater (Athens), 471 Palác Kinskych (Prague), 176 (Oslo), 655–656, 659 Olympus, Mount, 493 Palais des Beaux-Arts Norwegian State Railways Ommegang (Brussels), 122 (Brussels), 139 (NSB), 643–644 Onze-Lieve-Vrouwbasiliek Palais des Nations Nossa Senhora do Monte do (Maastricht), 638–639 (Geneva), 833 Carmo do Faro, Igreja de, 699 Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal Palais des Papes (Avignon), Notre-Dame (Paris), 269–270 (Antwerp), 143 295–296 Notre-Dame Cathedral (Luxem- Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk Palais des Prince-Evêques bourg City), 155 (Bruges), 147–148 (Liège), 152 Notre-Dame des Doms, Cathé- Opéra Bastille (Paris), 276 Palais Grand-Ducal (Luxem- drale (Avignon), 296 Opéra de Nice, 310 bourg City), 155 Nouveau Casino (Paris), 277 Opéra Garnier (Paris), 276 Palais Royal (Brussels), 135 Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek Opera House (Versailles), 280 Palamidi (Nafplion), 475–476 (Copenhagen), 206, 208 Opernhaus (Zurich), 810 Palatine Chapel (Palermo), 561 Nyhavn (Copenhagen), 209 Orchestre de la Suisse Palatine Hill (Rome), 547 Nyhavn 17 (Copenhagen), 214 Romande (Geneva), 835 Palau de la Generalitat Nymphenburg Palace (Munich), Orlandostrasse (Munich), 365 (Barcelona), 752 360–361 Orléans, 282–284 Palazzo Comunale (Siena), 578 Oslo, 646–659 Palazzo dei Conservatori Oslo Konserthus, 659 (Rome), 543, 544 Oakley’s Country Club Ostend, 150 Palazzo Ducale (Venice), 587 (Gothenburg), 792 Östermalms Saluhall Palazzo Pitti (Florence), 572 Obala Hrvatskog Norodnog (Stockholm), 780 Palazzo Pubblico (Siena), 579 Preporoda (Split), 846 Österreichische Bundesbahn Palermo, 560–561 Oberlander Heimat (Bern), 817 (ÖBB), 78–80 Palia Taverna Kritikou Obidos, 694 Ouchy White Horse Pub (Athens), 472 (Lausanne), 824 25_599518 bindex.qxp 2/8/06 9:04 PM Page 876

876 INDEX

Palm Beach Casino Musée Picasso (Paris), 269 Prinselijk Begijnhof ten Wijn- (Cannes), 306 Museu Picasso (Barcelona), gaarde (Bruges), 148 Panorama Bar (Lisbon), 693 754 Prins Eugens Waldermarsudde Panorama de la Bataille Picture Gallery (Berlin), 340 (Stockholm), 777 (Waterloo), 140 Pinacoteca (Rome), 548 Procession of Princes Panteón de Goya (Madrid), 724 Pinacoteca di Brera (Dresden), 377 Pantheon (Rome), 549 (Milan), 602 Procession of the Holy Blood Pantomime Theater (Copen- Pinacoteca Nazionale (Bruges), 122 hagen), 213 (Siena), 579 Procópio (Lisbon), 693 Papeneiland (Amsterdam), 631 Pinakothek der Moderne Promenade de la Croisette Paradiso (Amsterdam), 630 (Munich), 360 (Cannes), 304 Parc de Bruxelles (Brussels), Piraeus, 472 Promenade des Anglais 134 Pisa, 576–578 (Nice), 308 Parc Güell (Barcelona), Pius Clementine Museum Promenade du Rocher des 754–755 (Rome), 548 Doms (Avignon), 296 Paris, 251–280 Place de la Concorde, 262 Provence, 293–316 Paris-Visite, 258 Place de la République Prydkunst-Hjertholm Parliament (Arles), 298 (Bergen), 668 Berlin (Reichstag), 338 Place des Vosges (Paris), PUB Shopping Arcade Budapest, 511 263–264 (Stockholm), 780 Houses of (London), 404 Place de Tertre (Paris), 264 Puppet shows, Brussels, 139 Parreirinha da Alfama Place du Forum (Arles), 298 (Lisbon), 691 Place du Martroi (Orléans), 282 Parthenon (Athens), 465–467 Place Saint-Michel (Paris), 264 Quadri (Venice), 592 Passes, 43–45, 48–58. See also Place Vendôme (Paris), 263 Quai des Etats-Unis (Nice), 308 specific passes and countries Plaza Mayor (Madrid), 724 Quartier Latin (Paris), 264 Patisserie Valerie (London), 412 Plovdiv, 843 Quasimodo (Berlin), 346 Patras, 483–486 (Barcelona), Quays of Zurich, 805 Pauly & Co. (Venice), 592 755 Queen Gizella Museum Pelekanos (Athens), 471 Poland, 849–851 (Veszprém), 522 The , 472–486 Pomaks, villages of the, 494 Queen’s Day (Amsterdam), 609 Penhaligon’s (London), 412 Pompeii, 559–560 Queen’s Gallery (London), Ponta da Piedade, 700 403–404 (Berlin), 337 Ponte dei Sospiri (Venice), 587 Queen’s Pub (Copenhagen), Petit Trianon (Versailles), 280 Ponte Vecchio (Florence), 571 214 Philharmonie (Berlin), 345 Pont St-Bénézet (Avignon), 295 Quinta das Lagrimas (Coimbra), Philosophenweg (Heidelberg), Portas Largas (Lisbon), 693 694, 695 371 Porto, 695 Phil’s Jazz Kitchen Café Portobello Road Market (Brussels), 139 (London), 413 Rådhus (Copenhagen), 208 Phoenix Park (Dublin), 444 Portugal, 669–701 Rådhuset (Town Hall), Århus, Piazza dei Signori (Verona), Portuguese Railpass, 672 220 595 Porzellansammlung (Dresden), Radnice (Cesky Krumlov), 188 Piazza del Campo (Siena), 578 376 Rafael Ortiz (Seville), 735 Piazza della Signoria Potsdam, 348–349 RailBreaks, 431 (Florence), 568 Powerscourt Townhouse Centre Rail-drive and rail-fly passes, Piazzale Michelangelo (Dublin), 447 55–56 (Florence), 573 Prado, 720 Rail Europe, 31, 43, 46, 69 Piazza Navona (Rome), Prado Museum (Madrid), 720 Rail ’n Drive passes, 56–57 545, 554 Prague, 160, 166–183 Rail ’n Fly pass, 57 Piazza San Carlo (Turin), Prague Castle (Prazsky Hrad), Railpasses. See Passes 606–607 173 RailTours, 431 Piazza San Pietro (Rome), Prague Excursion pass, 161 Rainermuseum (Salzburg), 106 543, 554 Prague Spring International Raphael Rooms (Rome), 548 Piazzetta San Marco (Venice), Music Festival, 159, 181 Rapperswil, 808 586 Prague Symphony, 181 Rathaus (Town Hall), Rothen- Picasso, Pablo Prater (Vienna), 97 burg, 382–383 Die Sammlung Berggruen: Price of rail travel, 42–48 Reales Alcázares (Seville), 735 Picasso und Seine Zeit Princely Beguinage of the Réciproque (Paris), 276 (Berlin), 336–337 Vineyard (Bruges), 148 25_599518 bindex.qxp 2/8/06 9:04 PM Page 877

INDEX 877

Reduta Jazz Club (Prague), Royal Albert Hall (London), 414 St. Agnes Convent 182–183 Royal Apartments (Prague), 175 Regional trains, 35 Florence, 572 St. Andrew, Cathedral of Reichsstadtmuseum Stockholm, 775 (Patras), 484 (Rothenburg), 383 Royal Armoury (Stockholm), St. Bartholomew, Church of Reichstag (Parliament; Berlin), 775 (Liège), 152 338 Royal Ballet (London), 414 St. Bavo, Church of Reliquary of St. Erik (Uppsala), Royal Botanic Garden (Haarlem), 632 782 (Edinburgh), 423 St. Bavo’s Cathedral Reservations, 42–43 Royal Cabinet of Paintings (Ghent), 141 Residenz (The Hague), 634 St. Canute’s Cathedral Salzburg, 106 Royal Ceremonial Dress Collec- (Odense), 218 Würzburg, 381 tion (London), 405 St. Clemens, Cathedral of Residenz, Residenzmuseum & Royal Chapel (Granada), 743 (Århus Domkirke), 219–220 Schatzkammer (Munich), 361 Royal Concertgebouw Orches- St. George Hill (Szigliget), 525 Residenzgalerie (Salzburg), 107 tra (Amsterdam), 629 St. George’s Basilica Residenzmuseum (Munich), 361 Royal Garden (Prague), 177 (Prague), 174 Residenzschloss (Royal Palace; Royal Lyceum Theatre St. George’s Convent at Prague Dresden), 374 (Edinburgh), 427 Castle, 175–176 Ribeira Nova (Lisbon), 686 The Royal Mews (London), 403 St. Giles Cathedral (Edinburgh), Rick’s (Brussels), 140 Royal Mile (Edinburgh), 423 Rick’s Café (Bergen), 668 420, 426 St. Hubert, Gothic Chapel of Riddarholm Church (Stock- Royal Museum of Fine Arts (Amboise), 289 holm), 777 (Copenhagen), 209 St. Jakobskirche (Rothenburg), Ridderzaal (The Hague), 634 Royal National Theatre 383 Riesenrad (Vienna), 97 (London), 414 St. John’s Church (Maastricht), Rijksmuseum De Meester- Royal Opera House 638 werken (Amsterdam), 624 London, 414 St. Maria, Dom (Augsburg), 384 Ringstrasse (Vienna), 87 Stockholm, 781 St. Mark’s Basilica (Venice), 589 Rio Grande (Florence), 576 Royal Palace St. Mark’s Museum (Florence), Rockefeller Music Hall Amsterdam, 623 572 (Oslo), 659 Brussels, 135 St. Martin-in-the-Fields Rodin, Auguste, Musée Dresden, 374 (London), 408 National (Paris), 268–269 Madrid, 723–724 St. Mary Magdalene, Church of Röhsska Konstslöjdmuseet Prague (Královsky palác), (Karlovy Vary), 185 (Gothenburg), 789 173–174 St. Nicholas, Cathedral of Rolling Stone (Milan), 604 Stockholm, 775 (Prague), 176 Roman Agora (Corinth), 474 Royal Stables & Coaches St. Nicholas Church (Ceské Roman Amphitheater (Copenhagen), 207 Budejovice), 191 (Syracuse), 561 Royal Treasury (Stockholm), St. Patrick’s Cathedral Roman Forum, 546–547, 554 775 (Dublin), 444 Roman Forum (Thessaloniki), Royal Warship Vasa (Stock- St. Patrick’s Dublin Festival, 491 holm), 774, 778 428 Romania, 851–854 The Royal Yacht Britannia St. Paul’s Cathedral Roman Odeon (Patras), 484 (Edinburgh), 422–423 (London), 406 Romantic Road (Romantische Rubenshuis (Antwerp), 143 St. Peter’s Basilica (Rome), 543 Strasse; Germany), 318–319, Rudolfinum (Prague), 181 St. Petersburg, 241 379–385 Rue Lepic (Paris), 265 St. Peter’s Church (Salzburg), Rome, 528, 536–556 Rust (Copenhagen), 213 107–108 Ronnie Scott’s (London), 415 Rüstkammer (Dresden), 376 St. Peter’s Square (Rome), Rosenborg Castle (Copen- 543, 554 hagen), 208–209 St. Peter’s tomb (Rome), 543 Rosenkrantztårneet Sabauda (Savoy) Gallery St. Pierre, Cathedral of (Bergen), 665 (Turin), 607 (Geneva), 831 Rothenburg ob Der Tauber, Sacré-Coeur, Basilique du St. Servatius, Basilica of 382–384 (Paris), 264, 265 (Maastricht), 638 Rotunda (Thessaloniki), Sadová kolonáda (Karlovy St. Servatius Bridge (Maast- 490–491 Vary), 185 richt), 638 Route de Cézanne, 300 Sagres, 698 25_599518 bindex.qxp 2/8/06 9:04 PM Page 878

878 INDEX

St. Spyridon, Church of Santa Maria Antica Second class, 35, 37 (Nafplion), 475 (Verona), 595 Segovia, 703 St. Stephen’s Cathedral Santa Maria del Fiore, Catte- Semmering Pass Railway, 79 (Vienna), 97–100 drale di (Florence), 571 Semper Opera House St. Stephen’s Church Santa Maria delle Grazie (Dresden), 379 (Budapest), 511, 517 (Milan), 602 Senior discounts, 57 St. Stephen’s Day, 498 Santa Maria Novella, Basilica Austria, 79–80 St. Vincent, Cathedral of, 815 di (Florence), 569–570 Serbia and Montenegro, St. Vitus Cathedral (Cesky Sant’Antonio, Basilica di 854–856 Krumlov), 188 (Padua), 594 Service charges, 46 St. Vitus Cathedral (Prague), Sant Joan (Montserrat), 761 Seurasaari Open-Air Museum 173 Santo António, Igreja de (Helsinki), 237–238 Ste-Chapelle (Paris), 270–271 (Lagos), 699 Seven Stars (London), 414 Ste-Croix, Cathédrale (Orléans), Santo Tomé, Iglesia de Sevilla, Catedral de, 734 282–283 (Toledo), 731 Seville, 704–705, 732–739 St-Gatien, Cathédrale (Tours), Santuario della Scala Santa Sewers of Paris (Les Egouts), 285 (Rome), 542–543 270 St-Nicolas à Nice, Cathédrale San Zeno Maggiore, Basilica Shetland Connection Orthodoxe Russe, 309 (Verona), 595 (Edinburgh), 426 St-Paul-de-Vence, 311 Savoy (Sabauda) Gallery Shoulder seasons, 29 St-Sauveur, Cathédrale (Aix-en- (Turin), 607 Sibelius, Jean, 235 Provence), 300 Scalinata di Spagna Sicily, 560–561 St-Séverin, Church of (Rome), 549 Siena, 578–580 (Paris), 264 Scandinavia, 31 Silberne Kapelle (Innsbruck), Sala d’Art Artur Ramón Scanrail ’n Drive, 57 117 (Barcelona), 758 ScanRail pass, 51, 53, 74 Silver Bible Codex Argenteus Sala de Fiesta Alhambra Schaezlerpalais (Augsburg), (Uppsala), 783 (Granada), 744 385 Sinagoga de Santa Maria la Sala does Brasoes (Sintra), 696 Schatzkammer (Munich), 361 Blanca (Toledo), 731 Sala dos Cisnes (Sintra), 696 Schatzkammer (Vienna), 93–94 Sinebrychoff Art Museum Salamanca, 703 SchauLUST Museen Berlin, 336 (Helsinki), 236, 238–239 Sala Parés (Barcelona), 758 Scheepvaartmuseum Sint-Baafskathedraal Salzburg, 76, 102–113 (Amsterdam), 624 (Ghent), 141 Salzburger Heimatwerk, Scheveningen, 635 Sint-Bavokerk (Haarlem), 632 111–112 Schiele, Egon, 96, 188 Sint-Janskerk (Maastricht), 638 Salzburger Marionettentheater, Schilling (Barcelona), 759 Sint-Pietersberg (Maastricht), 113 639 Salzburger Schlosskonzerte, (Berlin), 335–336 Sintra, 693–697 112 Schloss (Potsdam), Sint-Servaasbasiliek Salzburg Hauptbahnhof, 348–349 (Maastricht), 638 104–105 Schönbrunn Palace (Vienna), Sint-Servaasbrug (Maastricht), Sanatorium Baths IIIVESO 92–93 638 (Karlovy Vary), 185 Schuttersgalerij (Amsterdam), Sisi Museum (Vienna), 93 Sanctuary of Asklepios 622 Sistine Chapel (Rome), 548 (Epidaurus), 478 Schweizer Heimatwerk Site Archéologique de St-Pierre San Giovanni, Cattedrale di (Zurich), 810 (Geneva), 831 (Turin), 607 Science Academy Building Skansen (Stockholm), 777, 781 San Giovanni in Laterano, (Turin), 607 Skansen Folk Museum Basilica di (Rome), 542 Science Museum (London), 407 (Stockholm), 774 San Lorenzo, Basilica di Scottish Wear (London), 413 Skitso (Thessaloniki), 494 (Florence), 569 Scuola di San Giorgio degli Skopje, 848–849 San Marco, Basilica di Schiavoni (Venice), 588 Sleeper cars (sleeping accom- (Venice), 589 Scuola di San Rocco modations), 37–42 San Marco, Campanile di (Venice), 588 Slovakia, 856–858 (Venice), 586 Sé (Cathedral) Slovenia, 858–861 San Marco, Museo di, 572 Faro, 700 Smoking coffee shops, Santa Maria, Ingreja de Lisbon, 684–685 Amsterdam, 631 (Lisbon), 685 Seasons, 29–31 Smuget (Oslo), 659 Sechseläuten (Zurich), 794 25_599518 bindex.qxp 2/8/06 9:04 PM Page 879

INDEX 879

SNCF (Société Nationale des Stiftskirche St. Peter Taverna Mostrou (Athens), 472 Chemins de Fer), 246–248 (Salzburg), 107–108 Tax free shopping for Society of International Stockholm, 767–783 tourists, 72 Railway Travelers, 69 Stockholm Waterfestival, 763 Teatro Comunale di Firenze/ Sofia, 842–843 Stockmann (Helsinki), 242 Maggio Musicale Fiorentino Sognefjord, 664 Stone of Scone (Edinburgh), (Florence), 575–576 Solar do Vinho do Porto 421 Teatro de La Fenice (Lisbon), 693 Storan (Gothenburg), 792 (Venice), 592 The Sorbonne (Paris), 264 Storkyrkan Church (Stockholm), Teatro de la Maestranza South Bank Centre 776 (Seville), 736 (London), 414 Stortorget (Stockholm), 776 Teatro dell’Opera (Rome), 554 Southern Europe, weather, 31 The Story of Berlin, 341 Teatro Greco (Syracuse), 561 Space Electronic (Florence), Storyville (Helsinki), 242 Teatro Nacional Sao Carlos 576 Stranger’s Galleries (London), (Lisbon), 693 Spa cures and treatments, 404–405 Teatro Real (Madrid), 728 Karlovy Vary, 185 Straw Market (Florence), 575 Telecafe (Berlin), 347 Spain, 702–761 Striezelmarkt (Dresden), Temple (Bern), 818 Spain Rail ’n Drive, 57 318, 377–378 Temple Bar Square Book Spanische Reitschule Sts-Michel-et-Gudule, Cathé- Market (Dublin), 447 (Vienna), 94 drale des (Brussels), 135 Temple de l’Auditoire Spanish Steps (Rome), 549 Studentenkarzer (Heidelberg), (Geneva), 831 Special needs, passengers 371 Temple of Apollo (Corinth), 474 with, 60 Sturehof (Stockholm), 781 Temple of Athena Nike Split, 846 Suburban trains, 35 (Athens), 466 Staatsoper (Vienna), 101 Sulhallen (Gothenburg), 791 Temple of Hera (Olympia), 482 Staatsoper Sundt & Co. (Bergen), 667 Temple of the Dioscuri (Berlin), 346 Suomenlinna Fortress (Rome), 547 Stabian Thermae (Pompeii), (Helsinki), 238 Temple of Venus and Roma 560 Svensk Hemslojd (Stockholm), (Rome), 546 Stadhuis (Town Hall) 780 Temple of Zeus (Olympia), 482 Bruges, 147 Svenskt Tenn (Stockholm), 780 Textil I d’Indumentaria Haarlem, 631 Kristallwelten (Barcelona), 758 Städtische Galerie im Lenbach- (Wattens), 118 Théâtre Antique (Arles), 298 haus (Munich), 360 Swarovski Shop Wien Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie Stadttheater (Bern), 818 (Vienna), 100 (Brussels), 139 Stadtturm (Innsbruck), 116 Sweden, 762–792 Théâtre Royal de Toone Stampen (Stockholm), 781 Swiss Federal Railway, 797 (Brussels), 139 Staromestské nám. Swiss National Museum Thebes, 466 (Prague), 176 (Zurich), 807 Theresien-Bräu (Innsbruck), 120 Staronová synagoga Swiss Pass, 49, 74, 796 Thessaloniki, 486–495 (Prague), 175 Switzerland, 793–839 Thomas Cook European Stary zidovsky hrbitov weather, 31 Timetable, 33 (Prague), 174–175 Syracuse, 561 Tibidabo Mountain (Barcelona), State Apartments Szentendre, 518–519 751 (London), 405 Szent Györgyhegy (Szigliget), Tierpark Hellabrunn Staten-Generaal (The Hague), 525 (Munich), 362 634 Szent István Bazilika Time zones, 30 Statens Museum for Kunst (Budapest), 511 Tiroler Alpenbühne (Innsbruck), (Copenhagen), 209 Szigliget, 524–525 120 Stavovské divadlo Szigliget Castle, 524 Tiroler Heimatwerk (Prague), 181 (Innsbruck), 120 Stazione Centrale (Milan), 597 Tiroler Landestheater Stedelijk Museum CS Tallinn, 227 (Innsbruck), 120 (Amsterdam), 625 Taormina, 561 Tiroler Volkskunstmuseum Stedelijk Museum Het Prinsen- Tartan Gift Shops (Edinburgh), (Innsbruck), 117 hof (Delft), 637 426 Tivoli, 555–556 Steffl Kaufhaus (Vienna), 100 Tate Britain (London), 407 Tivoli Gardens (Copenhagen), Stephansdom (Vienna), 97 Tate Modern (London), 407 209–210, 213 Sternberk Palace (Prague), 175 Tauentzienstrasse (Berlin), 344 25_599518 bindex.qxp 2/8/06 9:04 PM Page 880

880 INDEX

Tivolis Koncertsal (Copen- hagen), 213 Václavské nám. (Prague), 176 Walpurgis Eve Celebration Toledo, 729–732 Valand (Gothenburg), 792 (Helsinki), 224 Torget (Bergen), 666, 667 Valentim de Carvalho Warsaw, 850–851 Torre de Belém (Lisbon), 687 (Lisbon), 692 W. A. Sarmento (Lisbon), 692 Torre del Mangia (Siena), 579 Vali Folklór (Budapest), 516 Waterloo, Battle of, 140 Tour-de-l’Ile (Geneva), 830 (Liège), 152 Waterlooplein Flea Market Tour de Suquet (Cannes), 304 Vanalinn (Tallinn), 227 (Amsterdam), 629 Tourist information, 26–29 Van Gogh Museum Wattens, 118 Tours (city), 285–287 (Amsterdam), 625 Waxworks Museum (Waterloo), Tower Craft Design Centre Van het Heilig-Bloedasiliek 140 (Dublin), 447 (Bruges), 147 Weather, 29–31 The Tower of London Várhegy (Szigliget), 524 Websites, National Railway, 32 (London), 408 Varna, 843 Weihnachtsland am Zwinger Toxotes, 495 Vasamuseet (Stockholm), 778 (Dresden), 378 Trädgårdsföreningen Vasa Ship Museum (Stockholm), Wellington Museum (Gothenburg), 791 774, 778 (Waterloo), 140 Trädgoärn (Gothenburg), 792 VAT (value-added tax), 71–72 Wenceslas Square Trafalgar Square (London), 408 Vatican Museums (Rome), 548 (Prague), 176 TRAFO (Budapest), 518 Vega (Copenhagen), 213 Westbahnhof (Vienna), 86–87 Trainhotel Elipsos, 40 Veletrzní Palace (Prague), 176 Westerkerk (Amsterdam), 626 Train stations, 58–59 Veliko Târnovo, 843–844 Westminster Abbey Train Touristique de Nice, 309 Vence, 312 (London), 409 Trajan’s Column (Rome), 546 Venice, 529, 580–593 White Tower (London), 408 Travel agents, 69 Venini (Venice), 592 The White Tower (Thessaloniki), Traveling to Europe, 67–69 Vergina (Athens), 471 492 Travel Pro Network, 69 Verona, 594–596 Wiener Porzellanmanufaktur Traverse Theatre (Edinburgh), Vesuvius, 561–562 Augarten Gesellschaft 427 Veszprém, 522 (Salzburg), 112 Treasury (Munich), 361 Viaduc des Arts (Paris), 275 Wiener Sängerknaben Treasury (Vienna), 93–94 Victoria and Albert Museum (Vienna), 94–95 Treasury of Atreus (Mycenae), (London), 409 William Schmidt (Oslo), 658 477–478 Victoria Hall (Geneva), 835 William Tell Express, 837–838 Trenitalia Pass, 50 Vidám Park (Budapest), 510 Willi’s Wine Bar (Paris), 278 Treppenhaus (Würzburg), 381 Vienna, 75–76, 83–102 Wilmersdorferstrasse Trevi Fountain (Rome), 545–546 Vienna Boys’ Choir, 94–95 (Berlin), 344 Trocadero (Paris), 262 Vigelandmuseet (Oslo), 655 Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Cham- Troldhaugen (Bergen), 666 Vigelandsparken and Museum pionships (London), 388 Trooping the Colour (Oslo), 654–655 Wine Vat Building (Heidelberg), (London), 388 Viking Designs (Bergen), 667 370 Tryvannstårnet (Oslo), 652 Vikingskiphuset (Oslo), 656 Wittamer (Brussels), 138 Tsentralna Sofiiska Sinagoga Viktualienmarkt (Munich), Workshop of Phidias (Olympia), (Sofia), 843 365–366 482 ’t Smalle (Amsterdam), 630 Villa Adriana (near Tivoli), 555 World Clock (Copenhagen), 208 Tuomiokirkko (Helsinki), Villa dei Misteri (Pompeii), Würzburg, 380–382 236–237 559–560 Turin, 606–608 Villa d’Este (Tivoli), 556 Turkey, 861–862 Vima (Corinth), 474 Xanthi, 494–495 Twinpass, 320 Vincón (Barcelona), 758 Xtra (Zurich), 810 Vinorant Alter Hof (Munich), 367 Ufficio Scavi di Pompeii, 559 Virtualni Muzej (Ljubljana), 860 Youth discounts, 57 Uffizi Gallery (Florence), 570 Visegrád, 496, 520–521 U Flek* (Prague), 183 Visitor information, 26–29 Unter den Linden (Berlin), 337 Vrídelní kolonáda (Karlovy Zagreb, 845–847 Up and Down (Barcelona), 760 Vary), 185–186 Zahlorou, 479–480 Uto Quai (Zurich), 805 Vrijthof (Maastricht), 638 Zahrada na Valech U Zlatého tygra (Prague), 183 Vysehrad (Prague), 176–177 (Prague), 177 25_599518 bindex.qxp 2/8/06 9:04 PM Page 881

INDEX 881

Zeitglocken (Bern), 815 Zsolnay Márkabolt in the Duna Zurich, Lake, 808 Zeneakadémia (Budapest), 517 Plaza (Budapest), 516 Zurich Kunsthaus, 807–808 Zibelemärit (Bern), 794 Zum Nussbaum (Berlin), 347 Zurich Tonhalle Orchestra, 810 Zillemarkt (Berlin), 346 Zum Roten Ochsen Zwiebelfisch (Berlin), 346–347 The Zoo Bar & Club (Heidelberg), 373 Zwinger (Dresden), 376 (London), 415 Zum Sepp’l (Heidelberg), 373 Zwölf Apostelkeller Zoologischer Garten Zurich, 800–811 (Vienna), 101 (Berlin), 341–342