Return to Rome

Ditali with chickpeas and smoked pancetta p136 Return MAR Drink suggestions M DEL AX A RE LL AI EN CL g in yl St Y E L N R A E D N E B to y h p a r g o t o h P I N I L Rome O C I C At trattoria Santo Palato, Sarah Cicolini H A R embraces the soulful simplicity of Roman A S dishes and Abruzzo’s peasant classics. s e p i c e R A L R A P Fusilli with E lamb ragù I T A K s d r o W p 137 Cicolini serves her Roman-Abruzzese cuisine Extra-virgin olive oil, brown (4 minutes). Gradually in the Appio-Latino district not far from where the for greasing add milk, whisking constantly basalt of the Via Appia Antica begins and where 150 gm Parmigiano-Reggiano, until smooth, then bring mixture the Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano attracts finely grated to a simmer. Remove from heat, Catholic pilgrims. This in-between neighbourhood PASTA DOUGH season to taste, and continue is a mix of turn-of-the-20th-century villas, Fascist-era 500 gm (31/3 cups) “00” flour stirring for 2 minutes until 180 gm (about 3) eggs besciamella is thick but still public housing and middle-class city blocks. “When 100 gm (about 5) egg yolks a bit liquidy. I thought of opening my own place, it had to be here. BESCIAMELLA 3 For beef filling, heat oil and It has been my adopted home for 10 years, plus when 120 gm unsalted butter butter in a large saucepan over we first opened there wasn’t much staff,” says Cicolini. 90 gm “00” flour, sifted low heat. Add onion and stir “I had to be close out of necessity.” Now, whether 1 small nutmeg, finely grated occasionally until translucent Santo Palato is in service or not, you’ll likely find 1 litre (4 cups) whole milk, (10 minutes). Add beef, season arah Cicolini arrived in Rome a decade ago Cicolini in its small dining room or even smaller at room temperature to taste, and cook, stirring from Abruzzo, a mountainous region in kitchen receiving deliveries or prepping ingredients. BEEF FILLING occasionally, until browned central Italy known for its grazing sheep and Santo Palato’s dimensions keep the menu limited Beef and ricotta cannelloni 60 ml (1/4 cup) extra-virgin (15 minutes). Cool, then add rustic, rural cuisines. She had come to study to perennial classics, and plenty of seasonal dishes, too. SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 1 HR 30 MINS (PLUS RESTING) olive oil ricotta, nutmeg, Parmigiano- Smedicine but was also a passionate cook, learning at Some, like lasagne con broccolo romanesco, adapt 80 gm unsalted butter Reggiano and 2 tbsp “Cannelloni isn’t your everyday pasta,” says Sarah her grandmother’s side as a child and working in hotels 1 small onion, finely chopped besciamella, stirring to combine, traditional recipes, while others like fusilli con ragù di Cicolini. “Thanks to the numerous components, it as a teenager. At first, she tried balancing restaurant pecora feature a modern twist, in this instance a grating 250 gm finely minced beef then fold in spinach and basil. signals a festive occasion, like a holiday or a Sunday 4 shifts with her university coursework but soon realised of lemon zest to brighten the dish. In all cases, Cicolini’s 350 gm ricotta, preferably For tomato sauce, stir oil and lunch. My version uses a par-cooked besciamella – sheep’s milk garlic in a large saucepan over her love of the kitchen was eclipsing her desire to be food is thoughtful and never sacrifices tradition on the I like it to finish cooking in the oven with the pasta ½ nutmeg, finely grated low heat until golden (5 minutes). a doctor. “Neither doctors nor cooks can have second altar of useless innovation. Every choice she makes – and scales back the quantity of meat, which I think 100 gm (11/4 cups) Parmigiano- Add tomatoes, season to taste, jobs,” says Cicolini. “Eventually, the time came for me is in the service of balance and flavour. Santo Palato, gives the final dish greater balance.” Reggiano, finely grated and stir occasionally, until falling to choose one and I have been working in restaurant Piazza Tarquinia, 4a/b, 00183, Rome, +39 06 7720 7354. 300 gm spinach, coarsely apart (8 minutes). Add passata kitchens ever since.” chopped and simmer until thickened After working in bars, pizzerias and fine-dining 1 cup (loosely packed) basil, (20 minutes). Remove from kitchens in Rome, the 30-year-old chef is now running torn heat and stir in basil. her own restaurant, Santo Palato, which she opened TOMATO SAUCE 5 Preheat oven to 180°C. in 2017. The place is ostensibly a Roman trattoria, 100 ml extra-virgin olive oil Blanch two pieces of pasta at a casual neighbourhood joint, serving local favourites 3 garlic cloves, crushed a time in a large saucepan of like guanciale-laced carbonara, simmered offal and 500 gm fresh cherry salted boiling water (2 minutes). seasonal vegetables. But the menu also features dishes tomatoes, halved Drain and lay out cooked pasta from Cicolini’s native region, a cuisine that harmonises 800 ml tomato passata on a clean, dry surface and perfectly with that of Rome. Indeed, many Roman 1 cup (loosely packed) basil, distribute beef filling evenly classics were influenced by the arrival of peasants torn along the centre of each sheet. Roll into semi-tight tubes and from Abruzzo over the past century. 1 For pasta dough, place flour place, seam-side down, in a on a work surface and form lightly oiled tray or large baking a well in the centre. Place eggs dish to fit snugly. Cover evenly and yolks in the centre and with tomato sauce, cheese and gently beat together with a fork, remaining besciamella and bake slowly incorporating the flour until the cheese is melted and to form a dough, then knead edges are golden (25 minutes). vigorously by hand until smooth Wine suggestion Fresh and elastic (10 minutes). Wrap dry Lambrusco. ➤ dough in plastic and rest for 1 hour in the refrigerator. Feed dough through pasta machine, PREVIOUS PAGES starting at the widest setting, Ditali & fusilli Tablecloth and napkin from Spotlight (both reducing settings notch by used throughout). Dulux Gold notch until the second-last Treasure paint from Porters setting. Cut pasta into twelve (used throughout). Glass from 12cm-long pieces (you may have The DEA Store (used some pasta dough leftover, throughout). All other props stylist’s own. Cannelloni which can be frozen for another Marble tray from The DEA time). Place on a floured tray Store. Cutlery from Georg and cover with a tea towel. Jensen. Text page Chair from 2 For besciamella, combine Thonet (used throughout). Wooden tray from The DEA butter, flour and nutmeg in a Store. All other props cold saucepan over low heat. stylist’s own. Stockists p176. (PORTRAIT) AGENCY CULTIVAR PHOTOGRAPHY Whisk until mixture begins to 132 GOURMET TRAVELLER RIGATONI ALL’AMATRICIANA Rigatoni with tomato sauce, LASAGNE CON BROCCOLO ROMANESCO and elastic (10 minutes). Wrap until tender (25-30 minutes). guanciale and Pecorino Romano dough in plastic and rest for 4 Meanwhile, add stalks to a SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 30 MINS Lasagne with romanesco 1 hour in the refrigerator. Feed saucepan and cover with cold SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 30 MINS (PLUS RESTING) // COOK 1 HR 40 MINS dough through pasta machine, water. Lightly salt water, bring “Amatriciana is a great Roman classic, but there’s no one starting at the widest setting, to a boil, then cook until stalks recipe; everyone has their own spin on it,” says Cicolini. “In Italy, lasagne is always made with meat, but I often swap it for reducing settings notch by are tender (20 minutes). Drain, “Like Sora Lella, the late and legendary Roman chef, I use romanesco (see p109), Roman cauliflower, which I cook beyond notch until the second-last then return stalks to pan with a touch of vinegar. This trick, along with the short cooking the point of doneness,” says Cicolini. “The longer cooking time setting. Cut pasta into twelve remaining oil. Purée with a stick time for the sauce, keeps it light and pleasantly acidic. I finish pushes the romanesco past its natural sweetness and pulls out all 35cm x 12cm sheets, then blender and season to taste. the dish with some crisp guanciale for a contrast of texture.” these savoury flavours. It’s a complex dish with layered flavours to place on floured trays and 5 Blanch pasta sheets two at the salt coming from the anchovies and Parmigiano-Reggiano.” cover with tea towels. a time in salted boiling water 1 tbsp black peppercorns 3 Add vinegar to pan and cook 2 For besciamella, whisk (2 minutes). Drain and set aside 400 gm (5 cups) Pecorino until evaporated (1 minute), then butter, flour and nutmeg in a on sheets of baking paper. Romano, finely grated add tomato passata and simmer 165 ml extra-virgin olive PASTA DOUGH cold saucepan over low heat 6 Lay two pasta sheets in the 320 gm guanciale (see note), until thickened (15 minutes). oil, plus extra for greasing 500 gm (31/3 cups) “00” flour until beginning to brown base of a greased 35cm x 25cm cut into lardons 4 Meanwhile, cook pasta in a 180 gm white onion, 180 gm (about 3) eggs (4 minutes). Gradually add baking dish to fit neatly.

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