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Ditali with chickpeas and smoked pancetta p136 Return

MAR Drink suggestions M DEL AX A RE LL AI EN CL g in yl St Y E L N R A E D N E B to y h p a r g o t o h P

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Cicolini serves her Roman-Abruzzese Extra-virgin oil, brown (4 minutes). Gradually in the Appio-Latino district not far from where the for greasing add milk, whisking constantly basalt of the Via Appia Antica begins and where 150 gm Parmigiano-Reggiano, until smooth, then bring mixture the Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano attracts finely grated to a simmer. Remove from heat, Catholic pilgrims. This in-between neighbourhood season to taste, and continue is a mix of turn-of-the-20th-century villas, Fascist-era 500 gm (31/3 cups) “00” stirring for 2 minutes until 180 gm (about 3) eggs besciamella is thick but still public housing and middle-class city blocks. “When 100 gm (about 5) egg yolks a bit liquidy. I thought of opening my own place, it had to be here. BESCIAMELLA 3 For beef filling, heat oil and It has been my adopted home for 10 years, plus when 120 gm unsalted butter butter in a large saucepan over we first opened there wasn’t much staff,” says Cicolini. 90 gm “00” flour, sifted low heat. Add onion and stir “I had to be close out of necessity.” Now, whether 1 small nutmeg, finely grated occasionally until translucent Santo Palato is in service or not, you’ll likely find 1 litre (4 cups) whole milk, (10 minutes). Add beef, season arah Cicolini arrived in Rome a decade ago Cicolini in its small dining room or even smaller at room temperature to taste, and cook, stirring from Abruzzo, a mountainous region in kitchen receiving deliveries or prepping ingredients. BEEF FILLING occasionally, until browned central known for its grazing sheep and Santo Palato’s dimensions keep the menu limited Beef and 60 ml (1/4 cup) extra-virgin (15 minutes). Cool, then add rustic, rural . She had come to study to perennial classics, and plenty of seasonal dishes, too. SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 1 HR 30 MINS (PLUS RESTING) ricotta, nutmeg, Parmigiano- Smedicine but was also a passionate cook, learning at Some, like con broccolo romanesco, adapt 80 gm unsalted butter Reggiano and 2 tbsp “Cannelloni isn’t your everyday pasta,” says Sarah her grandmother’s side as a child and working in hotels 1 small onion, finely chopped besciamella, stirring to combine, traditional recipes, while others like con ragù di Cicolini. “Thanks to the numerous components, it as a teenager. At first, she tried balancing restaurant pecora feature a modern twist, in this instance a grating 250 gm finely minced beef then fold in spinach and basil. signals a festive occasion, like a holiday or a Sunday 4 shifts with her university coursework but soon realised of lemon zest to brighten the dish. In all cases, Cicolini’s 350 gm ricotta, preferably For , stir oil and . My version uses a par-cooked besciamella – sheep’s milk in a large saucepan over her love of the kitchen was eclipsing her desire to be is thoughtful and never sacrifices tradition on the I like it to finish cooking in the oven with the pasta ½ nutmeg, finely grated low heat until golden (5 minutes). a doctor. “Neither doctors nor cooks can have second altar of useless innovation. Every choice she makes – and scales back the quantity of meat, which I think 100 gm (11/4 cups) Parmigiano- Add tomatoes, season to taste, jobs,” says Cicolini. “Eventually, the time came for me is in the service of balance and flavour. Santo Palato, gives the final dish greater balance.” Reggiano, finely grated and stir occasionally, until falling to choose one and I have been working in restaurant Piazza Tarquinia, 4a/b, 00183, Rome, +39 06 7720 7354. 300 gm spinach, coarsely apart (8 minutes). Add passata kitchens ever since.” chopped and simmer until thickened After working in bars, pizzerias and fine-dining 1 cup (loosely packed) basil, (20 minutes). Remove from kitchens in Rome, the 30-year-old is now running torn heat and stir in basil. her own restaurant, Santo Palato, which she opened 5 Preheat oven to 180°C. in 2017. The place is ostensibly a Roman trattoria, 100 ml extra-virgin olive oil Blanch two pieces of pasta at a casual neighbourhood joint, serving local favourites 3 garlic cloves, crushed a time in a large saucepan of like guanciale-laced , simmered offal and 500 gm fresh cherry salted boiling water (2 minutes). seasonal vegetables. But the menu also features dishes tomatoes, halved Drain and lay out cooked pasta from Cicolini’s native region, a cuisine that harmonises 800 ml tomato passata on a clean, dry surface and perfectly with that of Rome. Indeed, many Roman 1 cup (loosely packed) basil, distribute beef filling evenly classics were influenced by the arrival of peasants torn along the centre of each sheet. Roll into semi-tight tubes and from Abruzzo over the past century. 1 For pasta dough, place flour place, seam-side down, in a on a work surface and form lightly oiled tray or large a well in the centre. Place eggs dish to fit snugly. Cover evenly and yolks in the centre and with tomato sauce, cheese and gently beat together with a fork, remaining besciamella and bake slowly incorporating the flour until the cheese is melted and to form a dough, then knead edges are golden (25 minutes). vigorously by hand until smooth suggestion Fresh and elastic (10 minutes). Wrap dry Lambrusco. ➤ dough in plastic and rest for 1 hour in the refrigerator. Feed dough through pasta , PREVIOUS PAGES starting at the widest setting, Ditali & fusilli Tablecloth and napkin from Spotlight (both reducing settings notch by used throughout). Dulux Gold notch until the second-last Treasure paint from Porters setting. Cut pasta into twelve (used throughout). Glass from 12cm-long pieces (you may have The DEA Store (used some pasta dough leftover, throughout). All other props stylist’s own. Cannelloni which can be frozen for another Marble tray from The DEA time). Place on a floured tray Store. Cutlery from Georg and cover with a tea towel. Jensen. Text page Chair from 2 For besciamella, combine Thonet (used throughout). Wooden tray from The DEA butter, flour and nutmeg in a Store. All other props cold saucepan over low heat.

stylist’s own. Stockists p176. (PORTRAIT) AGENCY CULTIVAR PHOTOGRAPHY Whisk until mixture begins to

132 GOURMET TRAVELLER ALL’AMATRICIANA Rigatoni with tomato sauce, LASAGNE CON BROCCOLO ROMANESCO and elastic (10 minutes). Wrap until tender (25-30 minutes). guanciale and Pecorino Romano dough in plastic and rest for 4 Meanwhile, add stalks to a SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 30 MINS Lasagne with romanesco 1 hour in the refrigerator. Feed saucepan and cover with cold SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 30 MINS (PLUS RESTING) // COOK 1 HR 40 MINS dough through pasta machine, water. Lightly salt water, bring “Amatriciana is a great Roman classic, but there’s no one starting at the widest setting, to a boil, then cook until stalks recipe; everyone has their own spin on it,” says Cicolini. “In Italy, lasagne is always made with meat, but I often swap it for reducing settings notch by are tender (20 minutes). Drain, “Like Sora Lella, the late and legendary Roman chef, I use romanesco (see p109), Roman cauliflower, which I cook beyond notch until the second-last then return stalks to pan with a touch of vinegar. This trick, along with the short cooking the point of doneness,” says Cicolini. “The longer cooking time setting. Cut pasta into twelve remaining oil. Purée with a stick time for the sauce, keeps it light and pleasantly acidic. I finish pushes the romanesco past its natural sweetness and pulls out all 35cm x 12cm sheets, then blender and season to taste. the dish with some crisp guanciale for a contrast of texture.” these savoury flavours. It’s a complex dish with layered flavours to place on floured trays and 5 Blanch pasta sheets two at the salt coming from the anchovies and Parmigiano-Reggiano.” cover with tea towels. a time in salted boiling water 1 tbsp black peppercorns 3 Add vinegar to pan and cook 2 For besciamella, whisk (2 minutes). Drain and set aside 400 gm (5 cups) Pecorino until evaporated (1 minute), then butter, flour and nutmeg in a on sheets of baking paper. Romano, finely grated add tomato passata and simmer 165 ml extra-virgin olive PASTA DOUGH cold saucepan over low heat 6 Lay two pasta sheets in the 320 gm guanciale (see note), until thickened (15 minutes). oil, plus extra for greasing 500 gm (31/3 cups) “00” flour until beginning to brown base of a greased 35cm x 25cm cut into lardons 4 Meanwhile, cook pasta in a 180 gm white onion, 180 gm (about 3) eggs (4 minutes). Gradually add baking dish to fit neatly. Spoon 1 tbsp white wine vinegar large saucepan of salted boiling finely chopped 100 gm (about 5) egg yolks milk, whisking constantly until a fifth of the florets onto the 1 litre (4 cups) tomato water until just short of 2 garlic cloves, BESCIAMELLA smooth, then bring to a simmer. pasta, then a fifth of the purée, passata (2-3 minutes less than cooking finely chopped 120 gm unsalted butter Remove from heat, season to besciamella and cheeses. 500 gm dried rigatoni time on packet). Drain, reserving 5 small anchovy fillets 90 gm “00” flour, sifted taste, and continue stirring for Continue layering, reserving a a few cups of pasta water. “Amatriciana is a Roman classic, 900 gm (2 large heads) 1 small nutmeg, finely grated 2 minutes until besciamella little besciamella, cheeses and 1 Dry-roast peppercorns in 5 Add pasta to the sauce, but there’s no one recipe; romanesco (see note), 1 litre (4 cups) milk, is thick but still a bit liquidy. florets for the topping. Bake for a small frying pan over low increase heat to high and cook, florets and stalks at room temperature 3 Preheat oven to 180°C. Heat 25 minutes, then increase oven heat, swirling until very fragrant stirring constantly and adding everyone has their own spin on it.” separated and chopped 150ml oil in a large saucepan to 2000C and bake until edges (4-5 minutes; see cook’s notes pasta water as needed to 400 gm (1/2 head) cauliflower, 1 For pasta dough, place flour over low heat. When oil begins of lasagne are crisp and top is p176). Cool then coarsely grind keep pan from getting dry, until florets and stalks separated on a work surface and form a to shimmer, add onion, garlic browned (18-20 minutes). with a mortar and pestle. al dente (2-3 minutes). Remove and chopped well in the centre. Place eggs and anchovies, and stir Note Romanesco is available Combine with Pecorino Romano. from heat, then stir in reserved 400 gm (5 cups) Parmigiano- and yolks in the centre and occasionally, until onion is from select greengrocers. 2 Cook guanciale in a large , half the guanciale and a Reggiano, finely grated gently beat together with a fork, translucent (15 minutes). Add Substitute broccoli. saucepan over medium heat, handful of pecorino mixture. 400 gm smoked provolone slowly incorporating the flour romanesco and cauliflower Wine suggestion Orange stirring occasionally, until fat Add most of the remaining or scamorza, cut into to form a dough, then knead florets and 250ml of water, then wine from Friuli. ➤ renders and guanciale is crisp pecorino mixture, stirring 2.5cm cubes vigorously by hand until smooth season to taste, cover, and cook (7 minutes). Drain guanciale on constantly and loosening the paper towels, leaving 2 tbsp fat sauce with a small ladleful of in the pan and reserving 1 tbsp pasta water at a time as needed, fat separately. until sauce is coating the pasta. Serve topped with remaining guanciale and pecorino mixture. Note Guanciale, cured pork cheek, is similar to pancetta and is available from Italian butchers and delicatessens. Wine suggestion Earthy red Cesanese.

Rigatoni Plates from Papaya. Cutlery from Georg Jensen. All other props stylist’s own. Stockists p176.

GOURMET TRAVELLER 135 PASTA CECI E PANCETTA AFFUMICATA Ditali with chickpeas and smoked pancetta MEZZE MANICHE ALLA GRICIA SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 5 MINS // COOK 1 HR 5 MINS (PLUS SOAKING, COOLING) Mezze maniche with “I learnt this recipe from my grandmother,” says Cicolini. “She would make this classic guanciale, Pecorino with pancetta leftover from charcuterie plates. I add dried sweet peppers, but you can also Romano and black pepper use dried chilli flakes.” Start this recipe a day ahead to soak the chickpeas.Pictured p130. SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 25 MINS

200 gm dried chickpeas, 1 Drain chickpeas and transfer (about 800ml) and bring to a “In Rome, gricia is just as famous as carbonara soaked overnight to a large saucepan. Add twice simmer over low-medium heat, or ,” says Cicolini. “It’s got all the 1 small onion the volume of water as the then add chickpeas and return classic Roman ingredients: guanciale, Pecorino 1 carrot chickpeas, then add onion, to a simmer. Cook for another Romano and black pepper.” 1 leek, halved lengthwise carrot and leek. Bring to the 15 minutes, add ditali, season 180 ml (3/4 cup) extra-virgin boil and cook until tender to taste, then add dried chilli 1 tbsp black peppercorns olive oil (30 minutes). Season to taste, flakes to taste. Cook until 400 gm (5 cups) Pecorino 180 gm smoked pancetta then cool (40 minutes). Drain, ditali is just short of al dente Romano (see note) or pancetta, discarding vegetables and (3 minutes less than cooking 320 gm guanciale (see note), cut into 5mm dice reserving cooking water. time on packet). Remove from cut into lardons 2 garlic cloves, diced 2 Heat oil in a large saucepan heat and cover for 3 minutes 500 gm dried mezze maniche 2 sun-dried tomatoes, diced over low heat. When oil begins to finish cooking. Serve topped (see note) 2 tsp smoked sweet paprika to shimmer, add pancetta, with black pepper to taste. 200 gm dried ditali garlic, tomatoes and paprika, Note Smoked pancetta 1 Dry-roast peppercorns in a Dried chilli flakes, to taste stirring occasionally to prevent is available from select small frying pan over low heat, Freshly ground black burning, until pancetta is Italian delicatessens. swirling until very fragrant pepper, to serve browned (about 5 minutes). Beer suggestion Nutty (5 minutes; see cook’s notes Add chickpea cooking water amber ale. p176). Cool, then coarsely grind with a mortar and pestle. Combine with Pecorino Romano. 2 Cook guanciale in a large 2 tbsp black peppercorns 3 Add a handful of cheese saucepan over medium heat, Spaghettoni con 500 gm (61/4 cups) Pecorino mixture to the pasta stirring stirring occasionally, until fat cacio e pepe Romano, finely grated vigorously to coat. Stirring renders and guanciale is crisp FUSILLI CON RAGÙ DI AGNELLO SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 10 MINS 120 gm Parmigiano-Reggiano, constantly, add a second (7 minutes). Leave guanciale in // COOK 18-20 MINS finely grated handful of cheese and a pan with 2 tbsp fat and reserve Fusilli with lamb ragù 500 gm dried spaghettoni ladleful of pasta water, then, 1 tbsp fat separately. SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK TIME 2 HRS 10 MINS “This classic Roman pasta dish still stirring, continue to add 3 Cook pasta in a large was traditionally prepared by 1 Dry-roast peppercorns in a cheese and pasta water, saucepan of salted boiling “In Abruzzo we eat a lot of lamb and mutton; it turns up peasants and shepherds who small frying pan over low heat, alternating 2 handfuls of water until just short of al dente roasted, stewed and simmered in ,” says Cicolini. “This made pasta in the morning, swirling until very fragrant cheese with every ladle of (2 minutes less than the time dish riffs on this classic Abruzzese pasta accompaniment by dusted it with salted sheep’s (5 minutes; see cook’s notes water and thinning with more on packet instructions). Drain, adding a little lemon rind for fragrance and flavour, and the cheese, and wrapped it up p176). Cool, then coarsely grind pasta water as needed, until reserving 1 litre pasta water. thyme evokes the wild herbs that the sheep encounter as to eat with their hands in with a mortar and pestle, and all the cheese has been added 4 Return pan with fat and they graze through the mountains.” Pictured p130. the fields at lunchtime,” combine with cheeses. and sauce clings to the pasta guanciale to medium heat. Add says Cicolini. 2 Cook pasta in a large evenly. Divide among plates pasta and a ladleful of pasta 100 ml extra-virgin olive oil (15 minutes). Increase heat to to the ragù, and stir to coat, saucepan of boiling salted and top with any remaining water, then increase heat to high 2 onions, diced medium-high, add lamb and adding a little more pasta water until according to packet sauce to serve. and stir constantly, adding pasta 2 carrots, diced fry, stirring occasionally, until water to loosen the sauce instructions until al dente. Wine suggestion Crisp water as needed until pasta is 2 garlic cloves, crushed almost cooked (5 minutes). if needed. Season to taste Drain, reserving about 1 litre white Frascati. al dente (2 minutes). Remove 1 bay leaf Add wine and simmer until and serve immediately pasta water, and transfer pan from heat and gradually stir 450 gm coarsely minced lamb evaporated (5 minutes). topped with Parmigiano- pasta to a large warm bowl. in pecorino mixture, reserving or mutton (see note) Add 250ml warm water, then Reggiano and lemon rind. a little extra to serve. Add 250 ml dry white wine, reduce heat to low, cover Note Mutton gives this ragù reserved fat, and stir constantly such as fiano with a lid, and simmer, stirring a stronger flavour than lamb; until emulsified, adding a little 500 gm dried fusilli occasionally and adding water it’s available to order from more pasta water if needed. 75 gm Parmigiano-Reggiano as needed to keep the pan select butchers. Cicolini uses Serve immediately topped with (see note), finely grated from drying out, until lamb 60-month aged or 36-month remaining pecorino mixture. Finely grated rind of is browned and flavours are aged Parmigiano-Reggiano. Note Mezze maniche, a short 1 lemon infused (1-11/2 hours). If it’s unavailable, substitute tubular pasta, is available from 2 Meanwhile, cook pasta in with Parmigiano-Reggiano Italian grocers. Guanciale, 1 Heat oil in a large saucepan a large saucepan of salted made from the milk of vacche cured pork cheek, is available over low-medium heat. When oil boiling water according to rosse (red cows), which is from Italian butchers and begins to shimmer, add onion, packet instructions until al available from cheese shops delicatessens. carrot, garlic, bay leaf and a dente. Drain, reserving 1 litre such as Formaggi Ocello. Wine suggestion Juicy pinch of salt and cook, stirring pasta water. Add pasta and Wine suggestion Rich young Dolcetto. occasionally, until softened half a ladle of pasta water red Montepulciano. ●

GOURMET TRAVELLER 137