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VOLUME 7, NUMBER 12 DECEMBER 1983 Appraisal ® Forms H 18

Official Publication of the American Institute

MARSHALL F. RICHMOND THE PRESIDENT'S MESSAGE Pride in Workmanship

STEVEN G. CONOVER CHIME AND STRIKE Successful French Rack Striking Movement

ARCHIE B. PERKINS TECHNICALLY Jewelry 12 How to Use the Modern 's Lathe, Part XV

HENRY B. FRIED QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS Making 16 ''.A Little Genealogy ... "

WES DOOR SHOPTALK 18 Appraisals: Yes or No? - Part III 22

ORVILLE R. HAGANS IN THE SPOTLIGHT 20 Model SSC2 Ingraham Hour Strike Movement

MARSHALL F. RICHMOND 22 PICKLE BARREL Design and Layout For , A Holiday Jewelry Making and Repair

MARVIN E. WHITNEY WATCHES INSIDE AND OUT 28 There's A New Meaning In Pivoting Nightmare

FRED BURCKHARDT ROCK QUARRY 30 Yuletide Spirits 30 MILTON C. STEVENS AWi NEWS 32 Reflections on 1983

SCHOLASTICALLY SPEAKING ALICE CARPENTER DEPARTMENTS 34 The Rapid Progress In Watchmaking Book Review/5 WALTER RIEGLER 36 AFFILIATE CHAPTER COLUMN Readers Write/6 Profile: Typical Affiliate Association N ews/3 7 Chapter of A WI AWI Bench Courses/3 8 New Members/38

HOROLOGICAL TIMES (ISSN0145-9546) is published monthly and copyrighted by the American Bench Tips/40 Watchmakers Institute, 3700 Harrison Avenue, Cincinnati, Ohio 45211, for $35.00 per year ($4.50 News in the Trade/42 per copy in the United States and $45.00 per year; $5.50 per copy outside the U.S.). Second class New Products and Literature/44 postage paid at Cincinnati, Ohio. POSTMASTER : Send address changes to HOROLOGICAL TIMES, Classified Ads/46 P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211. Advertisers' lndex/48 FELLOWS OF THE AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE Hamilton E. Pease Orville R. Haeans Josephine F. Hagans

Executive and Editorial Offices

AWi Central P.O Box 11011 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Telephone: (513) 661-3838

Harold J. Herman: Editor Maury Norrell: Managing Editor/Advertising HAPPY Donna Baas: Production Director Regina G. Stenger: Art Director Sue Scott: Business Manager

Mildred Howard: Circulation Manager Margie M. Brater: Circulation

Technical Editors: David G. Arnold Ewell D. Hartman Otto Benesh Gerald G. Jaeger James H. Broughton Sean C. Monk Fred S. Burckhardt Robert A. Nelson Steven G. Conover Archie B. Perkins Joe Crooks Marshall F. Richmond Paul Fisk Leslie L. Smith Henry B. Fried Marvin E. Whitney Orville R. Hagans

A WI Officers:

Marshall F. Richmond, CMW: President Fred S. Burckhardt, 1st V.P. William Biederman, CMW : 2nd V.P. Robert F. Bishop, Secretary Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI: Treas.

A WI Directors

David Arnold, CMC Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D., CMW, CMC Otto Benesh, CMC James Broughton, CEWS Wes Door, CMW Orville R. Hagans, CMW, CMC, FAWI Gerald G. Jaeger, CMW, CEWS Robert M. Leach, CMC Sean C. Monk, CMW Howard Opp, CEWS Walter Riegler, CMW:Affiliate Chapter Director Alice Carpenter, CEWS: Research and Education Council Chairman

Milton C. Stevens: Executive Secretary Michael P. Danner: Adminstrative Director HOLIDAYS! Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without permission from the American Watchmakers Institute. Copyright

2 Horological Times/December 1983 JEWELERS STEREO MICROSCOPE $57QOO

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• Pride f;ft ffTorkD'ianship

ome people have tried to convince me that pride in use it daily. In fact, if a watchmaker today wants to continue workmanship is lost in America. In many cases this to work on mechanical watches, especially the old ones, the § could be true, but not with the majority of watch­ lathe is almost as important as the right hand. The watch­ makers. makers that use it are proud craftsmen and are proud of the In attending meetings starting at the local guild balance staff, the pallet arbor, or the stem that they've had to level through the state and affiliate chapter level, to the meet­ make to complete a restoration job or a repair job. I would not ings of the American Watchmakers Institute, I rarely attend say that a watchmaker could not make a living repairing a meeting that some watchmaker will not show me a piece without a lathe, but to be a fully qualified watchmaker, when he has restored and is proud of. These are usually pieces which doing the difficult jobs, a lathe is a must. he owns. He is showing the kind of work he is capable of turn­ The National Casemarking System is a great system ing out and no doubt it is an example of the same kind of for identification and could be quite successful in recovering proud craftsmanship he does on customer repairs. Also, the stolen goods and even identifying people, but there have good workmanship subject comes up in almost, if not every, been many stumbling blocks in the way of its success. The one meeting, and these watchmakers discuss how to improve on that concerns me is that many watchmakers are not using it. already excellent workmanship. Some claim it is too time consuming, and others do not care This brings up a couple of subjects that have been to co-operate with the law enforcement people. I have used debated in recent years. One is the watchmakers' lathe, and it since its inception, and have even profitted by using it. It the other the National Casemarking System. Some have tried has been expressed to me many times by watchmakers that to abolish the casemark system, and others have favored no they were proud to put their mark in any work they have longer teaching the lathe. The watchmakers' lathe is a done because they were not ashamed of the quality work they that requires knowledge and practice to use and many of us produced. This also is pride in workmanship. 'ULill

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4 Horological Times/December 1983 Book Review lD'StLnSK. The Wetherfield Collection of Clocks, by Eric Bruton, FBHI, 264 pages, 8~ x 12", hard cover. Published by NAG Press, Ltd., London. •11~ The Wetherfield Collection of clocks is perhaps the finest collection ever assembled of English clocks. In 1930, after the death of David Arthur Wetherfield, the collection was sold. It was noted for its outstanding tall-cased examples, as well as for the good selection of bracket clocks and its smaller number of lantern clocks. The collection had been written about before: Britten's original book in 1907 and Hurcomb's book in 1928. Bruton, in this new book, had access to an album of photographs taken for the sale, but which had not been otherwise available. The major part of the book is devoted to the many FLASKS SPRUE BASES photographs of the clocks, with rather extensive explana­ STANDARD TAPER tions of each, preceded by a long introduction and followed Diam . Ht. Stock Price by a brief history of each maker of a clock. A section on the (in.) (in.) No. Each Stock Price Stock Price Wetherfield clocks, covering some 31 pages, describes them No . Each No. Each in terms of interest to the collector and historian. The dis­ 1% 2% F-1 $5.20 ST-1 $3 .60 tinguishing features of lantern clocks, bracket clocks and long­ 1% 2% F-1A 5.20 ST-1 3.60 case clocks are given, with the periods during which they were 2% F-2 3.00 S-2 $1.50 ST-2 1.50 being made the woods and metals used for cases, special 2 features of the movements, dating cases and movements, 2% 2% F-3 7.00 ST-3 3.60 noting power sources, escapements, dials and hands, many 2112 2 F-4 3.05 S-4 1.35 ST-4 1.50 described with excellent line drawings. But the Introduction 2% 2V2 F-4A 3.25 S-4 1.35 ST-4 1.50 is most interesting for historical background purposes. For a summary of the entire contents of the book, 2% 3 F-48 3.40 S-4 1.35 ST-4 1.50 the listing of the major sections is self-explanatory- Introduc­ 2% 4 F-4C 5.10 S-4 1.35 ST-4 1.50 tion, The Wetherfield Clocks, Technical Features, The Plates, 3 2% F-5 4.00 S-5 1.50 ST-5 1.50 Lantern and Hanging Clocks, Bracket Clocks, Longcase Clocks, 3 3 F-5A 4.20 S-5 1.50 ST-5 1.50 notes concerning makers of the clocks illustrated, Appen­ dix One: Marquetry and Veneering, Appendix Two: Cross­ 3% 4 F-6 11 .20 ST-6 1.90 reference Guide, Index, and Bibliography. 3% 2% F-7 4.30 S-7 1.50 ST-7 1.50 3% 3 F-7A 4.50 S-7 1.50 ST-7 1.50 Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D., CMW, CMC 3V2 4 F-78 5.65 S-7 1.50 ST-7 1.50 3% 5 F-7C 6.60 S-7 1.50 ST-7 1.50 4 3 F-8 6.15 S-8 2.40 ST-8 2.25 4 4 F-8A 6.40 S-8 2.40 ST-8 2.25 Almost Everything You Wanted To Know About American 4 5 F-88 7.15 S-8 2.40 ST-8 2.25 Watches and Didn't Know Who To Ask by George E. Town­ 4 5% F-8C 11.60 S-8 2.40 ST-8 2.25 send. 6 x 9 inches, 208 movements illustrated with current 4 6 F-80 9.75 S-8 2.40 ST-8 2.25 price guide contributed by Roy Ehrhardt. Published by Heart of America Press, Kansas City, MO at $8.95. 5 7 F-9 15.00 S-9 2.25 ST-9 2.50 COMPLETE TOOL CATALOG UNIVERSAL This book has been previously reviewed by us in this section of AVAILABLE ON REQUEST (Fits 2%", 3", 3%") the Horological Times. Its re-issue by Roy Ehrhardt contains Prices are subject to change ST-457 2.10 the latter author's addition of a current price guide with a detailed index to Townsend's section. It is still an authora­ tative collection of facts by the late Col. Townsend and is recommended to those who do not possess this long-titled THE GOULD COMPANY booklet on factory-made American watches up to 1900. 13750 Neutron Road • Dallas, Texas 75240 Nationwide Texas only Henry B. Fried CALL I I TOLL-FREE! 800-527-4722 111&492-4104 liDJ3

December 1983/Horological Times 5 ...... Our Readers Write ...... » he American Watchmakers Institute's Horological Times is the best thing that ever happened in publica­ T tions for watchmakers-a hands down winner. The staff of writers have consistently been on target with timely information and the various departments are widely acclaimed by readers. Special recognition is due the HT Editor. Topics and contents of the monthly editorials are refreshingly incisive, to the point, and enlightening. All this without a morass of verbiage and embellishment that adds little but length to any written article. The October 1983 editorial on retrofitting was as the others: incisive, enlightening, and deftly made its point. Quote, "Care must be taken that you don't shortchange your­ self." This is exactly the point that prompts our response. "Shortchange" is double edged. It can cut both ways. The thrust of the HT's editorial indicated that "time units" and "cost units" could erode the attractive price of retrofitting. This is true and we will not argue otherwise. However, what the editorial did not say is equally as important as what was said. For example, it did not say that the most prevalent calibre used in quartz retrofitting (movement exchange) is 5 ligne rather than a 6x8 movement and commands a con­ siderably higher price than a FF60 type (seldom used because most treasured watches deemed worthy of restoration are smaller than 6x8). Also, 6x8's are used in lower priced units. This makes the meticulous time study results partially invalid. The cost of the FF60 quartz equivalent is generally in the $11 - $15 range while the 5 ligne quartz is $15. Here one can see that the small differential in "start up" costs compared to a wide margin in "delivery" costs show that eroded profits from retrofitting are largely a myth. The editorial also assumed the replaced movement needed only simple cleaning to restore it to good order. Most retrofits come about because the old movement is rusty or otherwise damaged to the extent that a much larger sum is needed to fix the watch. Now we see the "time unit" dif­ ferential is reduced drastically. There are many more facets of this topic that warrant discussion and study. However, in the final analysis, we feel the HT Editorial and this response would eventually end up with the same admonition - "care must be taken that you don't shortchange yourself." Walter Hanson Editor of "Watch Word" North Carolina Watchmakers Association S. (:t?aJii1l,\'1nc. SINCE 1877 Worldwide Distributors to Horologists BOWMAN TECHNICAL SCHOOL '~»I L/Z7" 220 West King Street, Lancaster, Pa. 17603 234 Commerce Place, Greensboro, N. C. 27420; U. S. A. Offers you the most comprehensive courses in: Watchmaking and Repairing Clockmaking and Repairing Jewelry Repairing and Engraving Send for free brochure An Equal Opportunity Facility

6 Horological Times/December 1983

...

Steven G. Conover

Fren_ch Rack Strikin_g Movemen_t

n this article we will depart from the American strik­ ing type, there are locking plate striking French movements ing clock to work with a French movement. Our which we can cover in another article at a later time. I subject is the round, rack striking type. The actual Figure 1 shows the china case for our subject. The clock I based this article upon is by Japy Freres. There are case is made with a· 3-~ inch opening in the front and rear. some differences in design from one French movement to The round movement. is pinned to the dial, and the two go another, but the clocks are similar and a repair procedure in as a unit through the front. straps fasten the unit to can be applied to them as a class. Aside from this rack strik- the rear bezel. When you install the movement in the case, adjust the position of the dial so it looks straight from the front. Although many French clocks have a self-adjusting Figure 1. Rack strik­ beat-setting arrangement, .many others do not. For the latter ing clock by Japy type, a fine beat -adjustment can be achieved by loosening - F reres. The case is the brass straps and turning the dial-and-movement unit very 10-Y. inches high. slightly. If the clock is badly out of beat, this method will not · be of any use because the dial would end up visibly tilted to one side. · · · Beginners are often put 6ff by the small size (about 3-Yi inches -in diameter) ·of· the round French movements. This is just as well, because these movements. are delicate · compared to American clocks. Small size means small pivots, and you must take ·care to avoid bending and breaking pivots either during dismantling or reassembly. Just be extra care~ ful with French movements, and don't pick one for your · very first overhaul! . From the repair st;mdpoint, French ·movements seem to present the same problems time and again. They are. sub­ ject to gummy deposits in the pivot holes, and these deposits will actually stop the movements. The deposits may be rusty and abrasive, compounded of sour old oil, dirt, and moisture.

Figure 2. The movement. 3_-Y. inches in Figure 3. Ci'oseup of front strike parts. Figure 4. Rear of the movement. diameter. ·~•

8 Horological Times/December 1983 *©STEVEN G. CONOVER 1983 The rear pivot of the time train second arbor is especially wheel cock (15) and the minute wheel (14), along with the vulnerable in the typical French design. The pinion is at the hour wheel and snail (11 and 12). Pry up and pull off the end of the arbor, at the rear, and it takes the full force of the cannon pinion (13) with your fingers. The rest of the front barrel. A bushing is often required for this hole, and the pivot movement parts can come off in any order except the rack may be badly scored. In the strike train, the rear hole for hook (5) must be taken off before the lift and warning levers the pin wheel arbor often shows enough wear to warrant a (6 and 7). To remove the gathering pallet (8) pry up evenly bushing. In general, a French movement does not need many from two sides. Be carefuJ with it, and don't try twisting it bushings. It is more likely to need one or two bushings badly, off. The danger is that you could break off the front pivot of due to an isolated problem caused by dirt and neglect. the locking wheel arbor' wruch carries the gathering pallet. If you are going to overhaul a French clock, by all After you remove the pillar pins and rear plate you means 1ake the time to remove and clean the mainsprings. might want to mark the barrels so you can identify them Using a mainspring winder is certainly a good idea, so you easily later on. Proceed with a thorough cleaning. Keep track won't stretch the spring out of shape by forming it into a of all the pins and screws, and the washers for the rack hook, helix. Replace any mainspring you find in this condition­ rack and . Replace all bent or ill-fitting pins with new it is not worth compromising your work to try to get by with steel tapered pins. Do any required bushing work and pivot marginal springs. polishing now. Check endshake and freedom of motion for Disassembly begins with the letting down of the all wheels. Insert the mainsprings back into the barrels, and mainsprings. Remove the back cock and the pallets, and take put on the barrel covers. the hammer from the rear of the movement. Look at the Your next step is to get comfortable at a clean, well­ leather hammer head, and resolve to make a new one if nec­ lighted bench. Load all the arbors into the front plate, starting essary. Refer to Figures 3 and 5 to identify the front move­ with the center arbor and the barrels, followed by aJl the other ment parts which are to be removed. Take off the minute wheels. The hammer arbor and the adjacent arbor which car-

Figure 5 - PARTS LIST

1. Strike winding arbor 2. Strike clickwheel 3. Strike click 4. Clickspring 5. Rack hook 6. Lift lever 7. Warning lever 8. Gathering pallet 9. Rack 10. Rack tail 11. Hour wheel 12. Snail 13. Cannon pinion 14. Minute wheel 15. Minute wheel cock

December 1983/Horological Times 9 Figure 6 18 19

Figure 6 - PARTS LIST

7. VVarning lever 20 15. VVarning wheel 16. Fly 17. VVarning pin 15 18. Locking wheel 19. Lock pin 20. Locking lever 21 . Hammer tail 22. Stop pin 23. Hammer lift pins (10) 7 24. Pin wheel

24 23 21

ries the locking lever must be added in now. Don't worry the lift pins (23) on the pin wheel (24). If it is not, the ham­ about the pallets yet, or any of the front movement parts. mer will always end up partly lifted when the clock finishes You must concern yourself with getting the plates together. striking. The hammer will present a resistance to starting at Remember, the pivots are small and will break if forced. If the next hour or half hour. Usually a French clock assembled a pivot will not go into place, you might have it in the wrong with this problem will give trouble. location. Always check carefully. As you work, insert the Correcting the hammer position does not require pillar pins by hand only. Specifically, leave out the gathering you to separate the plates. Remove the pin wheel bar, the rec­ pallet and the rack until the first adjustments are done. tangular piece shown on the right rear area of the movement Refer to Figure 6 as you go on. Turn the strike train in Figure 4. It carries the rear pivot hole for the pin wheel by finger pressure until the locking wheel (18) comes around arbor. With the pin wheel bar out of the way, you can change and the lock pin (19) contacts the locking lever (20) to stop the position of the pin wheel without moving the locking the gears. Observe the hammer tail (21 ). It should be free of wheel. It may take several tries before you can get the ad­ justment done correctly. Many French movements are marked for assembly, and our model for this article is no exception. The pin wheel has a punch mark which you can line up with IF YOU'RE READING HOROLOGICAL TIMES, the locking wheel pinion above-for the pinoin has the corner YOU SHOULD BE USING PM PRODUCTS ground off one leaf. I find it easier to proceed without using ANNOUNCING THE the marks. Once you have completed this adjustment, the 1983 ANNUAL PM MOVEMENT SALE clock should strike once (remember, we haven't added the gathering pallet and rack yet) and must always end up with sP>'L~ :oGrandmother - Grandfather - Mantle ~Iv the hammer tail clear of the hammer lift pins. ~)l't~~:o~ Regulator - Wall - Ships Bell ll~c hs The next adjustment to check is the warning pin Great Savings On All Types Of Movements ·:ti Specially Priced Clearance Items (17). Install the lift and warning levers (6 and 7) and the rack Contact your dealer for details or send SASE to address below. hook (5). When the lock pin rests aginst the locking lever, the warning pin should be located approximately as shown in ------~-,.-~~------IF IT'S A CLOCK OR I P. Mereminsky Co. Figure 6, which is a rear view. This position permits a half WATCH ITEM... TELL f P:O . Box 104, BroolCJvn, NY 11231 revolution of the warning wheel before the warning pin con­ YOUR DEALER TO I (212) 875-2505 tacts the warning lever. If you need to change the warning "GET IT FROM PMI" I Serving The Clock & Watch · Industry For Over 40 Years wheel setting, first make sure there is no mainspring power (Continued on page 33)

10 Horological Times/December 1983 SALE

NOTE: THESE ARE FRESHLY STOCKED BATTERIES - NOT OLD STOCK OUR I§ OUR OUR EVEREADY LIST PRICE PRICE PRICE SW EST NUMBER PRICE CARTON NUMBER 5 PIECES 10 PIECES OF 30 i 201 ...... 3.44/ea .... . 2.02/ea .... . 1.88/ea.... . 1.75/ea .. . 876-100-201 301 ...... 1.56/ea...... 83/ea ...... 78/ea ...... 72/ea .. . 876-100-301 303 ...... 1.86/ea .... . 1.00/ea ...... 93/ea ...... 86/ea .. . 876-100-303 309...... i 1.41/ea ...... 75/ea ...... 70/ea ...... 65/ea .. . 876-100-309 313 ...... 1.23/ea...... 65/ea ...... 61/ea ...... 57/ea .. . 876-100-313 323 ...... 96/ea ...... 51/ea ...... 48/ea ...... 44/ea .. . 876-100-323 325...... 1.23/ea ...... 65/ea ...... 61/ea ...... 57/ea .. . 876-100-325 343 ...... 96/ea ...... 51/ea ...... 48/ea ...... 44/ea .. . 876-100-343 344...... 1.56/ea...... 83/ea ...... 78/ea ...... 72/ea .. . 876-100-344 350...... 1.62/ea...... 86/ea...... 81/ea...... 75/ea .. . 876-100-350 § 354...... 1.23/ea...... 65/ea ...... 61/ea ...... 57/ea .. . 876-100-354 I 355...... 3.00/ea .... . 1.61/ea.... . 1.50/ea...... 1.39/ea .. . 876-100-355 357 ...... 1.86/ea.... . 1.00/ea ...... 93/ea ...... 86/ea .. . 876-100-357 362...... 1.17 /ea ...... 62/ea ...... 57/ea ...... 53/ea .. . 876-100-362 364...... 1.17/ea...... 62/ea ...... 57/ea ...... 53/ea .. . 876-100-364 l l§ 366 ...... 1.14/ea...... 60/ea ...... 56/ea ...... 52/ea .. . 876-100-366 371...... 1.14/ea ...... 60/ea ...... 56/ea ...... 52/ea .. . 876-100-371 381 ...... 1.17 /ea ...... 62/ea ...... 57 /ea ...... 53/ea .. . 876-100-381 i§ 384...... 1.02/ea...... 53/ea ...... 50/ea ...... 46/ea .. . 876-100-384 386 ...... 1.44/ea ...... 77/ea...... 71/ea ...... 66/ea .. . l§ 876-100-386 387 ...... 1.56/ea ...... 91/ea ...... 85/ea ...... 79/ea .. . 876-100-387 ~ 388...... 1.23/ea...... 65/ea ...... 61/ea ...... 57/ea .. . 876-100-388 ~ 389...... 1.26/ea...... 67/ea...... 62/ea ...... 58/ea .. . 876-100-389 390...... 1.41/ea ...... 75/ea ...... 70/ea ...... 65/ea .. . 876-100-390 391 ...... 1.14/ea...... 60/ea ...... 56/ea ...... 52/ea .. . 876-100-391 i 392...... 87/ea ...... 45/ea ...... 42/ea ...... 39/ea .. . 876-100-392 t 393 ...... 1.26/ea...... 67/ea ...... 62/ea ...... 58/ea .. . 876-100-393 394...... 1.32/ea ...... 70/ea ...... 65/ea ...... 60/ea .. . 876-100-394 I 395. : . ... . 1.23/ea...... 65/ea ...... 61/ea ...... 57/ea .. . 876-100-395 i 396 ...... 1.20/ea ...... 64/ea ...... 59/ea ...... 55/ea .. . 876-100-396 t 397...... 1.23/ea...... 65/ea ...... 61/ea ...... 57/ea .. . 876-100-397 399...... 1.20/ea...... 64/ea...... 59/ea ...... 55/ea .. . 876-100-399 803 ...... 1.44/ea ...... 78/ea ...... 73/ea ...... 68/ea .. . 876-100-803 I§ CALL IN YOUR ORDER TOLL-FREE § Texas to Dallas ...... 1-800-442-3092 § § Nationally to Dal las ...... 1-800-527-5057 § Georgia to Atlanta ...... 1-800-282-8958 Nationally to Atlanta ...... 1-800-241-5738 ! California to Glendale ...... 1-800-232-2136 Western U.S. to Glendale ...... 1-800-423-2706 DEPT HT ®fl 1 > Carparate Office: 10803 Campaaita Dr. Dallaa TX 75220 I§ t!}lUe.ft'INc. 1 1 § ~~~~ '.Q>.Q>.j Technically © 1983 WATCHES By Archie B. Perkins, CMW, FNAWCC (All rights reserved by the author)

HOW TO USE

1983 The Modern Watchmaker's Lathe © Part XV

very important skill needed by the watchmaker and in restoring watches and clocks is the skill Figure 1 A\ needed to repivot train wheel pinions. This is due to the fact that pivots become broken or worn so badly that they cannot be refinished and need to be replaced. Replacement wheels and pinions are not always available for the older watches and clocks; therefore, it becomes necessary to repair the pinions by repivoting. In restoration work, it is best, in most cases, to restore the original part rather than to replace it in order to keep the originality of the timepiece. When repivoting pinions, the following operations are necessary: 1. Chucking the pinion for drilling. 2. Tempering the pinion so it can be drilled. 3. Spotting the center for the drill. 4. Drilling the pinion for the pivot plug. 5. Installation of the pivot plug. 6. Forming the new pivot on the plug. When chucking the pinion for drilling, various meth­ ods must be employed, depending on the particular situa­ tion. Figure 1 shows the easiest method. This is when the pinion can be chucked up close to the wheel and close to the end of the pinion where the pivot is broken. If the pivot is broken on the long end of the pinion, this sometimes makes it more difficult to chuck the pinion and hold it sturdy enough to drill for the pivot and to finish the pivot. In this case, the pinion can be removed from the wheel and chucked through the back of the chuck as is shown in Figure 2. The removal of the pinion from the wheel is easier when the pinion is frictioned into the wheel. If the pinion is riveted into the wheel, then the wheel and pinion should be chucked in the Figure 2 lathe and a sharp thin pointed graver used to cut the rivet off so the pinion can be pressed out of the wheel. After the pivot has been replaced, then the pinion must be riveted back into the wheel. A good example of a case where the pinion must be removed in order to repivot the pinion is on a cylinder platform escapement where the escape wheel is riveted onto the pinion very close to the end of the pinion and the pivot is broken on the other end of the pinion. The pinion does not extend far enough beyond the escape wheel to allow for chucking. This makes it necessary to remove the pinion from the wheel to chuck it.

12 Horological Times/December 1983 the end of the pinion. The lathe is made to turn slowly while Figure 3 the pegwood is used to true up the pinion. The pegwood should be kept in position until the shellac has cooled enough for the pinion to remain true when the pegwood is removed. Only a light pressure is needed with the pegwood, just enough to assure that the pivot is held in the point of the female center. Note: The flame of the alcohol lamp is removed from the cement brass as soon as shellac is melted. The shellac must never be overheated. This burns the shellac and prevents it from holding well and makes it difficult to remove after the pivot job has been completed. After the pivot job has been completed, the cement brass is reheated so the wheel and pinion can be removed from the cement brass. The shellac is removed from the wheel and pinion by soaking them in denatured alcohol. The following procedure is used to repivot a pinion. Figure 4 First, if any of the old pivot is still left on the pinion, it should be measured to determine its diameter. Otherwise, the diam­ eter would need to be determined by measuring the pivot hole in the watch plate. Next, the pinion is chucked up abso­ lutely true by one of the methods previously described. Then adjust the "T" of the hand rest close to the pinion as shown in View A, Figure 5. Now, use the graver to face off the end of the broken pivot (View A, Figure 5). Care must be taken so PEG WOOD as not to touch the shoulder of the pinion during this opera­ tion; otherwise, the endshake on the pinion will be changed. Next, adjust the "T" of the hand rest at right angles to the pinion close to the end of the pinion as shown in View B, Figure 5. Then the. graver is used to spot a center in the end of the pinion as shown in View B, Figure 5. Note: When spotting a center, the graver should have a sharp slender point and the lathe must be turning in a reversed direction by reversing the motor or by crossing the lathe belt. Spotting the center for the drill is a very important factor in a successful repivoting job.

Sometimes the wheel is riveted onto the pinion and the part of the pinion that must be chucked in is very short Figure 5 or perhaps tapered. This makes it difficult to chuck and make the pinion run true. In this case, the pinion and wheel can be cemented up by the use of a cement brass. This makes it unnecessary to remove the pinion from the wheel. This meth­ od of chucking the wheel and pinion is shown in Figures 3 and 4. Figure 3 shows how a sharp female center in the end of the cement brass is used to center up the end of the pivot on the pinion prior to cementing the wheel and pinion to the end of the cement brass. Note that the female center is shallow enough to prevent the wheel from resting on the end of the cement brass. This is necessary in order for the end of the pivot to center up in the bottom of the center. It is also necessary for the center to be clean and sharp without a projection in its bottom. Figure 4 shows the process used to cement up the wheel and pinion. First, the wheel, pinion and cement brass must be cleaned in denatured alcohol. This makes the shellac adhere to the cement brass, wheel and pinion better. To cement up the wheel and pinion, first the cement brass is heated with an alcohol lamp. Then the shellac is applied in the center of the brass, and while the shellac is melted, the pinion is inserted into the shellac and the center that was cut into the end of the cement brass. Note: The best type of shellac to use is orange shellac in stick or flake form. Shredded jewel cement can also be used and works equally as well. While the shellac is quite soft, a piece of pegwood which has a female center cut into its end is used over the "T" rest to center up

December 1983/Horological Times 13 View A, Figure 6 shows a correctly spotted center. As can be seen, the point of the graver goes exactly to the center of the pinion which eliminates any material in the cen­ Figura 6 ter. This sharp center is necessary in repivoting to assure that the drill will drill a hole which is exactly on center with the pinion. Unless the drill starts exactly on center, one cannot expect to drill a hole exactly on center. View B, Figure 6 A shows a center being spotted. It will be noted that the point of the graver has not reached the center of the pinion. This leaves a sharp projection in the center which cannot be toler­ ated in repivoting work, as this is likely to cause the drill to get started off center which will cause the hole to be drilled off center. An off center hole has two bad effects on a repivot­ ing job. An off center hole causes the wall on one side of the hole to be thinner which makes it weak and likely to split out B as the pivot plug is staked into the hole. Second, if the pivot plug is off center, it is very difficult to turn and finish the pivot so that it is exactly on center with the pinion. View C, Figure 6 shows another center being spotted. In this example, the graver point has gone past the center of the pinion. This condition cannot be tolerated because, although the drill may start on center, it is likely to drift off center after the drill gets started. c After a correct center has been spotted, then the hole is drilled for the pivot plug. Figure 7 shows the hole being drilled. The drill is being held in a small pin vise. When a pin vise is used, the end of the pin vise should be supported and guided by a male center in the tailstock. The center should fit in the hole in the end of the pin vise. The drill can also Figure 7 be held in a chuck holding device that fits the tapered hole in the tailstock spindle, or the drill can be held in a chuck hold­ ing tailstock. The small pin vise makes a very sensitive drill holder. The drill selected should be 0.02 mm to 0.03 mm larger than the pivot is to be when finished. The drill can be a flat style pivot drill or a twist drill. Drills made from high speed steel are more desirable than ones made from high carbon steel. High speed drills will drill harder materials and hold up better. Drills made from carbide will usually drill the hardest pinion without tempering the pinion. Carbide is very brittle and must be used cautiously to avoid breaking it off in the hole while drilling the hole. Flat high carbon steel pivot drills can be bought from your local watch material dis­ tributor. There are two sets available. They are Number 28-351-1 sizes .004" to .026", and Number 28-352-1 sizes Figura 8 .028" to .050". Flat pivot drills can also be made by the watchmaker and clockmaker by following the instructions given in the May, 1983 issue of Horological Times "Tech­ nically Watches" column. Sphinx brand high speed micro drills can also be obtained form your local watch material distribu­ tor. Sphinx makes pivot drills in both flat and helix styles in diameters from 0.04 mm to 3.00 mm graduated in 0.01 mm increments up to 1.49 mm and 0.05 mm increments from 1.49 to 3.00 mm. Carbide drills can be bought from machinery supply houses. Carbide drill blanks can be used to make flat drills by grinding and shaping them with a lap. When repivoting a pinion, every effort should be made to drill the hole for the plug without having to temper the pinion, but there are some cases where the temper must B be drawn in the pinion in order to drill it. Figures 8 and 9 show methods that can be used to temper the pinion. View A, Figure 8 shows a tool that can be made to be used for tempering pinions and arbors. This tool is made from a piece of rod. The reason copper is used is that it holds heat alcohol lamp or small torch until quite hot. Then the end of ·Very well. One or more holes are drilled into the end of the rod the pinion is inserted into a hole which fits the pinion closely to fit the end of the pinion. The copper rod should be set as is shown in View B, Figure 8. Just as soon as the end of the into a wood handle. To use the tool, it is first heated with an pinion turns a pale blue, it is withdrawn from the tool and let

14 Horological Times/December 1983 to cool. It is only necessary to temper a short section at the end of the pinion and not necessary to temper the whole Figure 10 pinion. The object is to temper the end of the pinion quickly before the heat travels up the pinion and maybe does damage to the wheel. If the copper rod is long enough, it would be possible to first place the pinion into a hole and then heat the rod between its end and the handle until the pinion turns pale blue. Figure 9 shows another method that can be used to temper the pinion. An old tweezer can be used to hold the pinion between the wheel and its end; then the end of the pinion can be carefully heated with a micro flame torch (the torch that uses the small butane and micronox cylinders). Note: When the torch is used to temper the pinion, care must be used to keep from overheating the pinion and damaging it. The tweezer serves as a heat sink which helps to prevent the heat from traveling up the pinion and damaging the wheel, but it still allows the end of the pinion to be tempered to pale to a pale blue. This usually causes the resharpened drill to start blue. With this method, a small alcohol lamp can also be used cutting. to heat the end of the pinion to temper it. WHEN DRILL­ The hole for the pivot plug should be drilled at least ING THE HOLE, THE LATHE MUST BE TURNING VERY as deep as the length of the finished pivot. After the hole has SLOWLY; otherwise the drill may stop cutting because its been drilled, then the plug is made and installed. The plug cutting edge heats up, causing the cutting edge to become bur­ should be made from blue steel pivot wire which can be ob­ nished which causes the bottom of the hole to become bur­ tained from your watch material distributor. The number is nished. When this happens, the drill must be resharpened. 49-106. Figure 10 shows this process. View A shows the plug Also, when the bottom of the hole becomes burnished, this being fitted to the hole in the end of the pinion. The plug makes it most difficult for the resharpened drill to start should have a very slight gradual ta.per to it with a flat square cutting again. Sometimes the drill has to be resharpened at end. The plug should be of a diameter that it will go 2/3 of a more blunt angle in order to skim off the burnished surface the way to the bottom of the hole as shown. This allows for so the drill will cut in a normal manner. Very little pressure is a drive fit without so much danger of splitting the wall of the needed when drilling. Too much pressure will cause the drill pinion. After the plug has been ma.de to fit the hole correctly, and hole to become burnished. then a groove is tu med on the plug at point "a" allowing enough length for making the pivot once the plug is staked into the hole. This groove allows the plug to be broken off of Figure 9 the stock while it is in the hole in the pinion. This method helps to keep the plug from getting lost. Now the wheel and pinion are rechucked true in the lathe and the plug staked into the pinion with a brass hammer as shown in View B, Figure 10. Next the pivot is formed on the plug. This is done by turn­ ing the plug down with a sharp graver and cutting it off to the proper length and then grinding and polishing the pivot to the correct size. Refer to the August 1983 Horological Times "Technically Watches' column for how to make and finish pivots. Note: It is very important that the pinion is running absolutely true before any work is done on the plug to form the new pivot. lf, when the pinion is running true, the plug is slightly out of true then the plug must be turned true with a sharp graver before the pivot is finished. After the repivoting job is completed, the blue can be removed from the pinion with a blue remover called COERULINE which can be purchased from your local watch material distributor. The stock number is 52-730. The blue can also be removed from the pinion with the use of DURO ® NAVAL JELLY, which can be purchased from a drug or hard­ ware store. After the pinion has been dipped into the chemi­ cal, it should be rinsed in water and cleaned thoroughly. Any residue left on the pinion can be polished off with the Linde A Any time a drill stops cutting, it must be resharpened. and pegwood. If a repivot job is done correctly, it cannot be Usually no oil is needed when drilling for the new pivot. From detected. To be an expert at repivoting takes lots of practice. past experiences in repivoting, it was found that if the drill was One should practice on old pinions from the scrap box before removed quite often and cleaned off with the fingers, it would attempting to repivot pinions in a customer's watch. Start with do a good job of cutting. The conclusion reached was that the large pinions and work down to the smaller ones. fingers not only cleaned the drill but lubricated it also, possi­ This ends the series on "How to Use the Modern bly by the perspiration and possibly some natural oils from the Watchmakers Lathe." Staking will be discussed next fingers in the perspiration. Sometimes when the drill stops month. cutting, it may be necessary to retemper the end of the pinion

December 1983/Horological Times 15 Henry B. Fried, CMW, CMC, FAWI, FBHI

"A Little Genealogy ... "

I am sending some photos of information book as being 1872 model, a customer's watch. The best 16 size, % plate, 15 jewel, exposed I could tell him was that the balance. Yours is unusual in that it was o..company changed to the name of Amer- the l 82nd watch made after its incep­ ican Watch Company in 1859. Can you tion, having started this model with help me pinpoint the date of manufac­ 600,001 to begin with. ture on this any closer? Serial No. is 600182 I think l 6s - 17 jewel I've enclosed a Polaroid shot Casemarks: of a minute repeater marked AWCO "Stammelbach Swiss" on its 40474 o..double-stepped enamel dial, as well as K on the plate you see in the photo. It's 18 a stem set (never any conversion from Is there anything of interest lever, nor any slot to accommodate I might pass on to him about the move­ a lever). It has an open-faced full Arabic ment or case? I take it that the company dial. The 18K yellow case is marked made their own cases at that time. Since "Stammelbach Swiss" also. A hallmark he is neither a collector nor a watch­ in the case back appears to be "Apollo­ maker, any information about the period like "- that is, it depicts a young boy's and the company would greatly inter­ head, with a Laurel wreath. est him. He is planning to pass the watch The inside 18K dust cover has on to his grandson. That will make five all the same markings, except the name generations of ownership-one of the and "Swiss." The movement, including beautiful things about a finely made item the strike , measures 43.5 mm. such as an American ! The Warren Mfg. Co., 1851-1853;Boston Thank you for any help you Donald A. Gavlick Watch Co., Sept. 1853-May 1857; Tracy, Newburgh, NY can offer. Baker & Co., May 1857-June 1857; Don Bilyeu Appleton Tracy Co., June 1857-Jan. Champaign, IL 1859; American Watch Company, Jan. 1859-1885; American Waltham Watch Co., 1885-1921. I am familiar with your watch. Your watch movement is of The American Watch Company the 1872 model and started with num­ A was one of the many names ber 600,001. A total of just over 59,000 used by the eventual Waltham Watch of these were made in a span of over 12 Company. The genealogy of that company years. It was the first Waltham-produced is: Howard & Davis & Dennison, Sept. watch with exposed winding wheels. 1850; American Horolgue Co., 1851; These were listed in their serialized (Continued on page 27)

16 Horological Times/December 1983 Another Great Borel Buy! Here are two popular quartz analog movements used by many of the major watch manufacturers, at a price about the same as or less than you 'd pay for just the coil. Both movements have good parts availability and are repairable. In many cases you'll find it more practical and more profitable to replace, rather than repair a malfunctioning movement. ESA 961.DD1 Y480A Quartz Analog Movement Quartz Analog Movement II' 63/4 x 8 L size 63/4 x BL size ~' ~ ~ . 3.5 mm thickness 2.8 mm thickness ·. --.~ / s11.95 S14.00 Battery Included Battery Included This movement used by Pulsar. (Dial foot has to be shortened, before installation.) Other available movements: Replaces Font 60 and Font 69 Y 481 63/4 x BL, sweep second $16.50 Other available movements: Y 590 51/2 x 63/4L 17.50 102.001 33/4 x 10L $27.00 Y 561/571 111/2 L, sweep second 17.50 301.001 51/2 x 63/4L 16.00 Y 572 111/2 L, date 20.00 950.001 7 3/4 L 32.00 Y 573 11112 L, day/date 20.00

BAnERY HATCH BATTERY CLAMPS GASKETS This assortment contains a variety We have just received these of battery clamps. Mostly for two assortments of Battery Swiss calibers, but several could Hatch Gaskets from Switzer­ be modified to fit other models. land. One has 50 assorted # 10219 $ 14.50 pieces of the 0-ring type, and the other has 25 assort­ ed pieces of the flat type. BAftERY CLAMP # 1 .-Asst. - Flat Rubber Gaskets (25 pieces) $ 4.95 # 2 ·Asst. - O·Ring Gaskets (50 pieces) 4.95 SCREWS

DESIGNERS Ever lose the little screw holding CASE·TOP INSERT down the battery clamp when SCREWS & RIVETS changing a cell? You'd very like­ ly find a replacement in this 50 Find just one piece assortment. screw or rivet for # 10217 $ 9.95 two different jobs and you've paid for the entire -- 100 pieces. 100 ASSORTED # 3·Asst. of screws and rivets $ 4.95 Dial Feet Dial Feet for or gluing watch Movement when replacing a movement HOLDERS with different dial foot positions. Plastic adapters allow you to fit a # 10040 - 100 Pieces $ 5.20 smaller movement into a larger case. # 10039. Same as above for Several to fit 51/2, 6 3/4, 7 3/4, 8 3/4, 111/2 pocket watches 6.10 line movement to larger case sizes. Trim to size. ------.J # 4·Asst. of plastic movement S 4.95

NATIONAL TOLL·FREE ORDER SERVICE t 800·82t·5&8& In Missouri 1·800-892-5818

Borel, 1110 Grand, Kansas City, MO 64106 Distribution Centers in: KANSAS CITY e LOS ANGELES • OAKLAND SHOPTALK

Wes Door, CMW

Appraisals: YES or NO? Part Ill

very important part in making an appraisal is the writer. When set at "double space" we can type on all lines "appraisal form" used. Although there are universal without continually resetting the typewriter to correct. We Jlforms available, we prefer to use our own form. use the typewriter to type in the information on the top two­ The ease of using these and the completeness of detailed in­ thirds of this form, and the bottom "worksheet" section we formation makes it well worth the few extra pennies they fill in with a ball point pen. cost at our local printers. Now, let's get down to the important part of any The form reprinted here is not copyrighted and you appraisal form. An appraisal must convey, as accurately as are certainly welcome to copy any or all of this material and possible, detailed information on all of the individual items. make any personal changes as desired. As we see, our appraisal includes the type, color and quality These forms are made in triplicate on "NCR" (no of metal, accurately identified , including their carbon required) paper. Being 8~ x 11 inches, they can be shapes, sizes, weights, clarity, cut, girdle thickness, stone folded in "thirds" and fit into a window envelope. The lines color, and the retail value. We sketch the items, and in this on the form are spaced to match the line spacing on our type- example, it happens to be a lady's diamond ring set, with a .26 center diamond. As we see, even the "side" are completely described. If any one diamond is lost, the replacement value for this ONE diamond is not only accurately described, but the correct replacement value is assured. The insurance company is pleased to have such an accurate appraisal. Although we do not attempt to enter into recommending certain insurance companies, we do caution our customers to ask their agent if the loss of any one diamond is covered or if it is only covered when the complete diamond ring set is lost. If the loss of an individual stone is covered, then the customer can demand that the replacement dia­ mond be not only of a stated equal retail value, but most im­ portant, it must be of equal quality. For example, let's say the center diamond ("A" on our form pictured) was lost. The insurance company must re­ place with a stone of equal value and equal quality. We cer­ tainly would not want an imperfect promotional quality dia­ mond used to replace our finer original stone. Our customer paid us for an appraisal to obtain accurate information and accurate value. The insurance company accepted their pre­

18 Horological Times/December 1983 SHOP TALK

of their customers (clients) to us for appraisals, or just for up­ copies to the customer, we place our copy in a secure in dating. At renewal time many insurance companies require a not too obvious place to keep the confidence necessary. an ' updating of jewelry items. This is especially true if they When handled properly, appraisals can be a very profitable believe there has been an increase in gold or prices. business. We find it is easy to re-type and adjus t the price up or down to match current market conditions. Of course, we charge less fo r this "upda te appnisal as it is mostly a matter of price adjus tment. We must keep up on the current prices not just for 'updating, ' but to set our 'original' appraisal values on all items we appraise. Appraised prices are normally based on a fair retail replacement value. There is quite a variety of retail price EDITOR'S NOTE: mark-ups used by various stores, so we should use care to es­ tablish uniformity in appraisals and of course use common sense. If prices are figured correctly, a customer should be able THE ANNUAL TECHNICAL INDEX OF to replace any appraised item from a number of stores at a price comparable to the appraised price listed on our form. ARTICLES WHICH HAVE APPEARED IN Notice on the bottom left section of the pictured HOROLOGICAL TIMES IN 1983 WILL BE form where we have a choice of items to "check." We have indicated: "This appraisal is for insurance; therefore based on INCLUDED IN THE JANUARY 1984 the retail replacement cost of a comparable item." We should ISSUE. note here that this appraisal is not "an offer to buy," and some appraisers feel the necessity of including a note to this effect. However, we personally have not felt this need. Looking now at the bottom left section of our form, we write in the letter "A" to note the gemstone that is unmounted, and "B" and "C" to show those that are "mounted," while making this appraisal. We did not "unmount" this center diamond just to make our appraisal, (in this imaginary example), but it was a "remount" job so this diamond was removed anyway to re­ HEADQUARTERS FOR set in a new mounting. Incidentally, on all remount jobs, we always weigh all stones, whether we are making an appraisal or not. It sure helps when the customer decides a month later 1 1 to have an appraisal made. Also, it is a real safeguard if the n i~ja~1 ra customer says their diamond was a 1/2 carat and it is only a * * 1/3 carat. Notice the bottom left sentence on our form. It reads: "If appraisal is made while mounted, weights are WATCH/CALCULATOR approximate. Also, inclusions under prongs may appear in­ visible." "A picture is worth a thousand words," and many AND HEARING AID appraisers use them. A close substitute is a sketch. Notice our sketch is a simple top view drawing of the diamond ring set. When we color in the yellow gold area of the sketch with our BATTERIES yellow "gold" colored pencil, the finished sketch looks quite nice. We also have a complete set of "birthstone" colored CALL TOLL FREE pencils to color in any of the birthstones found in our ap­ praisal jobs. After finishing our appraisal and giving two AND ASK FOR OUR PRICE LIST JEWELMONT®~ ~ material 21 North St. CORPORATION W_I & supply Middletown, NY 914-343-4434 C I company 10940 F (AREA CODE 6121 546-3800 A Division of Crystal Fitters, Inc. MINNESOTA WATS 800-742-0508 Source for all your watch material, watchmaker NATIONWIDE WATS 800-328-0614 and jewelry tools. Crystal fitting our specialty. Send for Catalog 800 BOONE AVENUE NORTH Bestfit - Vigor - G-S - Genuine material & crystals MINNEAPOLIS. MINNESOTA 55427

December 1983/Horological Times 19 From the Manuscript and Photo Library of Orville R. Hagans, FAWI, CMW, CMC, FBHI, FNAWCC

Model SSC2 Ingraham

Hour Strike Movemen.t

* I would like to thank Mr. Richard Warburton for * Next, while still keeping the lever from going back contributing this article on the Ingraham electric hour under the star, a second cam on the same arbor as the first strike movement. lifts the lever up so that it is high enough to be dropped and land on the rim of the star wheel. To drop it, the first cam merely runs out from under the lever, and it falls while the he Model SSC2 Ingraham movement is an electric second cam prevents it from dropping back to the bottom of striking movement built back as far as 1938. It can be the picture. Now the star wheel is turning all this time and the found in many different cases and with three differ­ lever will ride on the rim unit! the hole in the rim, clearly Tent motors powering it through its production life. visible, comes along. At this time, the lever falls through it The first motor was the early attempt by Hanson. It and lands on the strip of metal which is seen sticking out from is a motor with two coils attached, and usually is painted a under the rim and star wheel. As I said before, this piece metallic green, which means it is 60 cycles. Blue indicates 50 should be under the rim and not sticking out from under it, cycles and for 220 volts. but the man who had the pictures taken did so because he The second motor was the Ingraham attempt at a couldn't get it to work. As the lever falls against this piece of sealed rotor. It isn't really a rotor, since the driving force isn't metal the piece of metal raises and the end of it forces the star induced through the case. Rather, the disc that runs the motor wheel upward and the small hook you see on top of the star is placed in a magnetic field outside the capsule containing the wheel engages the cone and hooks over its top edge and holds gearing ending up at 8 rpm. the star up. As the star turns, the pins on its top engage the The last motor used until production ceased was the tail of the strike hammer and lift and drop it so it hits the bell Ingraham model "Z" which also turned at 8 rpm. and the counting takes place. This continues until the hook This movement suffers from one failure: that being a falls through the slot in the cone. This picture shows it in the small hook which stops it when it has counted off the right 10 or 11 position so the hook goes all the way around the number of strikes. This hook must slide quickly and completely cone before it comes to the slot. There it falls through, allowing through a slot and be free of the slot, or the hook is bent and the star wheel to fall and the striking stops. the movement usually refuses to strike. It may possibly jam up The errors shown here are: first, the piece of metal solid and stop. The striking action isn't the normal gearwork being bent out from under the star wheel with its rim; and usually seen. Rather it is something that you'd assume was second, the hook should be a little more straight up and down, designed by someone who designs traps for small fur-bearing if not with a slight lean in the other direction. This hook must rodents. be clear and free as it has to fall through in a hurry. Otherwise In the picture, we must note that the large piece it will become caught in the slot, which will make it bend, thus sticking out does not belong there. It should be up under the causing trouble. rim "R", as that is what pushes the rim up. In operation the The owner of this movement, after finally seeing one motion work of the clock first turns the cone, which can be working, said he thought it resembled a mouse trap going off seen at the top of the picture with the slot in it. This turns and lifting an umbrella at the same time. While these seem to with the hour hand. The double "cam" located above the plate run a long time, my own clock being about 40 years old and is attached to the minute hand. As this double cam turns it still going, they are not the finest thing the repairman will first moves lever "L" out from under the star wheel in the encounter. They were built for the low priced market and center with all the little posts sticking up on it and with the keeping that in mind, they have withstood the test of time rim below them. quite well.

20 Horological Times/December 1983 HOLE IN RIM

THIS PIECE DOES NOT BELONG HERE

LEVER CAM (1)

CAM (2)

Photo by Jan Carlson, Minneapolis, MN

STAR WHEEL SHOWN IN STRIKING POSITION (or "UP" POSITION

CARTON OF 30 CARTON OF 30 ITEM# COST EA. ITEM# COST EA. OR 100ASST. OR 100ASST. 201 ...... $1.79 ea ...... $1.55 ea. 373 ...... 53 ea ...... 46 ea. 301 ...... 74 ea ...... 64 ea. 377 ...... 57 ea .50 ea . 303...... 89 ea ...... 77 ea. 381 ...... 55 ea .47 ea. 309 ...... 67 ea ...... 58 ea. 384 ...... 47 ea .41 ea. 313 ...... 57 ea ...... 50 ea. 386 ...... 68 ea .59 ea. 315...... 53 ea ...... 46 ea. 387 ...... 81 ea .70 ea . 321 ...... 51 ea ...... 44 ea. 388 ...... 57 ea .50 ea. 323 .. ..· ...... 45 ea ...... 39 ea. 389 ...... 59 ea .51 ea. 325...... 57 ea ...... 50 ea. 390 ...... 67 ea .58 ea. 343 ...... 45 ea ...... 39 ea. 391 ...... 53 ea .46 ea. 344...... 74 ea ...... 64 ea. 392 ..... -...... 40 ea .35 ea. 350 ...... 77 ea ...... 67 ea. 393 ...... 59 ea .51 ea. 354...... 57 ea ...... 50 ea. 394 ...... 62 ea .54 ea. 355 ...... 1.42 ea ...... 1.24 ea. 395 ...... 57 ea .50 ea . 357 ...... 89 ea ...... 77 ea. 396 ...... 56 ea .49 ea. 361 ...... 53 ea ...... 46 ea. 397 ...... 77 ea .50 ea . 362 ...... 55 ea ...... 47 ea. 399 ...... 56 e·a .49 ea. 364...... 55 ea ...... 47 ea. 803 ...... 69 ea .60 ea . 366 ...... 53 ea ...... 46 ea. E-CB2016 ...... 1.05 ea .92 ea. 370 ...... 53 ea ...... 46 ea. E-CR2025 ...... 1.05 ea .92 ea. 371 ...... 53 ea ...... 46 ea. E·CR2032 ...... 1.05 ea . . .92 ea . SELECT SALES CALL TOLL-FREE!! FREIGHT PREPAID 1120 N. Concord St. NATIONAL WATS HI00-328-1817 ON ALL ORDERS! So. St. Paul, Minnesota 55075 MINN. WATS 1-800-642-1830

December 1983/Horological Times 21 THE P11c1~LE IA111L

Marshall F. Richmond, CMW

Design. an.d Layout

For Je~elry Makin.g an.d Repair

he need to expand our services continually grows. To copies of something existing. Once when searching for a design expand our services it is necessary, then, to expand for a customer, I had to go to the creek and find a pebble with T our skills. In many cases this can be done in the a peculiar shape to make a piece that would answer her de­ jewelry making and repair end of our business without any scription of what she wanted. The pebble was used to make a sizeable added investment in material or tools and equipment. mold and cast in 14K gold, then made into a finger ring. In my early years as a watchmaker and jewelry repair­ aving had training in mechanical or artistic drawing man, most of the jewelry work that was done in small stores H could be a big plus in designing and laying out custom was ring sizing and repairing breaks in jewelry. Most all other made jewelry pieces, but it is not necessary. If you are a watch- work like prongs, heads, shanks, stone setting and bezels was maker and have had the watchmaker schooling that I have had, sent to a manufacturing jeweler. Postage was low cost, their no doubt somewhere in the training it was necessary to make a work was not expensive and the service was usually good. Now drawing of the lever escapement which has to be accurate and this situation has turned around because the watchmaker does deals in straight lines, curves, also, angles and the degrees of not have the heavy load of watch repair. The cost of postage is angle, clearances and tolerances have to be correct. However, high as is the cost of service quite expensive, so if we expand in designing and layout of jewlery for custom made pieces this our knowledge and skills we can make this money for our­ can be done with a sharp lead pencil, most of it free hand in selves and even make the cost less if we choose for our cus­ the original sketch. Anything being made that is a copy of tomers. In previous articles we have discussed most phases of nature need not be perfect, for nature does not make anything jewelry repair and how to make these repairs, but little has "perfect." Leaves, trees, flowers or animals are rarely sym­ been said about layout and design. Having been fairly success­ metrical or perfectly color balanced if examined closely. ful in making custom made jewelry pieces, I would like to pass Although rough sketched, geometric designs should be more on from my experience and observations what I know. nearly perfect because they require proper spacing and propor­ I have always had a rule that I would not make a duplicate tion; in some cases the figure should be symmetrical. copy of a piece of jewelry that I previously made unless re­ This kind of drawing and layout can be done with an quested to do so by the original customer. It makes a good sell­ inexpensive compass and protractor. Most of your research ing point, and it never lets my life become repetitious or boring. material is in your jewelry and findings catalogs. Look through Most pieces of jewelry, including rings, are copies of the ring section, section and general jewelry section of designs of nature used sometimes as is or in combinations: any jewelry catalog. Here you will see all sorts of designs leaves, flowers, trees, birds, bees, animals, insects and even which can give you ideas on how to combine parts of several people. Other designs derive from geometric figures such pieces and come up with an "original." Familiarize yourself as squares, rectangles, triangles, pentagons, hexagons, or with your findings catalog and know what is available in octagons and circles. Regardless of the design it always com­ shanks, bezels, settings, basic design rings and jewelry that may bines two things--:straight lines and curved lines. All designs are save much time in making the piece of jewelry.

22 Horological Times/December 1983 uch can be made from basic materials- but in no way fact, I keep an assortment of them on hand but rarely use M can you produce prong settings, heads, earring backs, or them because the riveted tube makes a much more secure job. tie tack clutches, for the cost if you order them from the In making an emblem or letter, layout is important and may findings catalog. When selling a custom piece of jewelry to a seem difficult but is relatively simple using a small metal ruler customer, find out from them some idea of what they want for straight lines, and just free hand the curved marks. If you made, then with a pencil and piece of paper make a rough have accesss to an engraving machine some of the double line sketch. Erase and change until you have what they want or alphabets are suitable for outlining a letter to be sawed out something that appeals to them and remember what findings and used for a signet on a ring. In fact, an engraving machine are available that can be used in making it-because you will can be used for many layout jobs as there are many emblem no doubt be requested to quote a price and having all this in templates available. your mind can be very helpful. Many customers co.me with diamonds, colored stones or even pieces of jewelry that they ing remounting is a very profitable business but to give want to use in making a piece of jewelry. Some of them have R good service it requires a large inventory of ring mount­ an idea of what they want it to look like, where others do not. ings. I have sold a certain ring mounting from a catalog and Either way, it is up to you to come up with a design that have often found that when ordered it turns out to be a appeals to them. Most watchmakers have had to deal with di,scontinued number. There are however, many dinner or customers so they should feel at ease in making sketches while cocktail mountings that can have four point settings attached explaining the possibilities of a one-of-a-kind jewelry piece by hard soldering them and to stock a few of these will always made especially for them. Figures in karat gold can be ob­ assure you that if you sell one you have it. The four point tained in the form of charms and almost any kind of figure is settings are always available and usually a WATS phone call available such as animals, insects, people, sport figures, tools, will have them delivered to you within 24 to 48 hours. I have dancers, cheerleaders and many more. Sometimes one of these always ordered extras and have built up a small inventory can be used in a design for an original. Emblems of all kinds of them and other 14K findings. When customers come in are also available, as well as alphabet letters in block, script or with more than one stone they can be counted, evaluated for Old English. Many of these can be hand made with very little size, then· a blank mounting shown that will accommodate effort if you become proficient with a jewelers saw, hand them with a possible arrangement of the stones sketched on gravers, files and gold soldering. These can be used as replace­ paper. Although this takes time while making a sale, it saves ments on signet or emblem rings, tie tacks or any other piece time in setting up the job. Attaching these settings is really a of jewelry. part of layout. They are small and difficult to hold in place Many applied signets, where attached to a drilled stone when applying heat and solder. To prevent melting some of in a ring, become lost and we are called upon to replace them. the pron,gs, I have learned to sink the prongs in a round I make many- of these myself, as I have several alphabets to laminated asbestos pad, put the mounting against the prong, copy from as well as the alphabets that I memorized when and making the hard solder joint by applying the heat from studying hand engraving. To make a letter for a signet ring the bottom. The mounting can be held in place with the third first a small piece of 14K gold is rolled out to one millimeter hand tool. Some of these mountings will accommodate as thickness. With a scribe the figure is laid out on the metal. To many as 20 settings, and putting them on one at a time cari be hold a small piece a little double faced tape on the back will time consuming, so this should be considered in estimating the hold it securely to a desk or drawing board to scribe the cost. outline. The piece can be held in a small vise while sawing There are schools that have courses in mounting and if and drilling a place to insert the saw blade for removing the you can learn it this way it is great. But for a practicing watch­ inside places such as the center of an "O" or the two holes in a maker, an extensive course is not too practical. Even after "B". When it is sawed out it can be fine shaped using needle schooling you only have a basic knowledge and skill, but if files. Next a tube is hard soldered on the back, located in such self-taught the practice comes with the learning. A. good way a way that when it goes through the hole in the stone, the to get started is to make jewelry pieces for membe~s of your letter will be centered in the stone. This can be used to replace family. Start with the simple pieces like tie tacks, , the screw plug type and the tube should be a good fit to the or broaches. Then progress into finger rings, hole in the stone. However, the screw plug type has a groove or more difficult pieces. Members of your family will appre­ on the top side of the stone where the small bar extends on ciate these pieces hand-crafted by you more than any you each side of the plug tube which keeps the emblem from could buy. turning when the screw is inserted and tightened. When a tube ?st estimat0g ~eem~ dif~cult. l have found, howev~r is used to replace the screw plug a groove needs to be cut in C It can be sunplified m this way . I have a flat rate pnce the bottom of the stone across the hole. When the tube is for installing and setting the stones. Af1er making the sketch, riveted, a chisel type punch (dull) to push or tap the metal I list the prices of the materials, then count the settings and into and keep the letter or emblem from tuming. nus groove multiply the number of settings by the flat rate price of install­ can be cut with a small diamond-charged burr. Screw plugs are ing and setting. I add these together to come up with an esti· available in two diameters for the two different size holes most mated cost or a contract price. commonly used in stones drilled for signets or emblems. In (Continued on page 31)

December 1983/Horological Times 23 KROHN FLUXED FLAME TORCH SYSTEM

A300

Shipped UPS (weighs 12 lbs.)

Manufactured with maintenance-free stainless steel construction inside and out Constructed with the finest heavy duty components available 8 inches square, designed to take a minimum of valuable bench space Check valve to prevent potential "blow-back" Least expensive comparable unit on the market Inexpensive and easy to replace torch tips, tips always remain cool Manufactured and serviced in the United States by a company long known for their technology and service t--~~~~~~------~~--~---11 1"---1~,~---~~~~~~~~~~~ L&R The --· Master ePC3 $329.00 PC3 109.95

Another first for L&R. This compact, very powerful solid-state system is ideal The for counter top cleaning. Its low price makes the PC3 idea l for a second, aux­ Mastermatic iliary back-up unit. The vinyl painted steel $365.00 shell and stainless steel tank with tank cover insure longevity. It is available in four designer colors: White, Beige, Blue Features motor head of Vari-Matic. and Black. The tank measures Most popular watch cleaning Uniform, automatic reversing of 3 43/.i"x 3 / 8"x 2W' deep and has an 18 machine ever made. Powered by basket produces brilliant results. ounce capacity. Optional 600ML tall form specially-designed motor. Ultrasonic Ultrasonic unit 204 can be beakers for greater versatility. unit 204 can be easily added: easily added.

Quick credit to accounts well­ rated by Dun & Bradstreet or TOLL-FREE PHONE ORDERS Jewelers Board of Trade. !IARSHALL - ~WARTCHI LO (except - sorry! - Alaska and Hawaii) 9 till 4 C.D.T., WEEK­ DAYS. ILLINOIS: 800/972-3776 2040 Milwaukee Ave., Chicago, IL 60647-312/278-2300 OTHER STATES: 800/621-4767 Firm _____...... ;;... ___ 109 North Akard, Dallas, TX 75201-214/741-1454 1212 Main St., Houston, TX 77001-713/759-9009 SEND MAIL ORDERS TO: Add re~------Dept. H, Box 726, Chicago, IL 55 New Montgomery, San Francisco, CA 94105-415/421-2153 60690. City/State/Zip______1425 Fourth Ave., Seattle, WA 98101-206/682-6158 WATCH & CLOCK CLEANING a RINSING SOLUTIONS

10% - OFF L&R SALE ~~ Take 10% off prices -- shown here on orders received by Dec. 31

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Quick credit to accounts well­ rated by Dun & Bradstreet or TOLL-FREE PHONE ORDERS Jewelers Board of Trade. (except - sorry! - Alaska and !IARSHALL -@-WARTCHI LD Hawaii) 9 till 4 C.D. T., WEEK­ DAYS. ILLINOIS: 800/972-3776 OTHER STATES: 800/621-4767 2040 Milwaukee Ave., Chicago, IL 60647-312/278-2300 Firm ______109 North Akard, Dallas, TX 75201-214/741-1454 SEND MAIL ORDERS TO : 1212 Main St., Houston, TX 77001-713/759-9009 Address ______Dept. H, Box 726, Chicago, IL 55 New Montgomery, San Francisco, CA 94105-415/421-2153 60690. City/State/Zip ______1425 Fourth Ave., Seattle, WA 98101-206/682-6158 We Salute These Museum Donors! (Listed in Alphabetical Order) The AWi ELM Charitable Trust wishes to acknowledge receipt of the following donations. The items will be added to the collection in the AWi Museum in Cin ­ cinnati, Ohio to perpetuate the history of horological progress.

BAIER, Joseph G., Ph. D., Phoenix, AZ­ ss back and bezel ring, water resistant wheel; small German desk alarm, nickel Crocker graver sharpener, steel, 25- case No. 10651106. Bulova Thermatron case; Swiss watch movt. template for 942-22, Pat. April 9, '07. watch was never marketed. holding screws from disassembled movt. BOTKIN, William E., Muncie, JN-Staking CAMMARATA, John, P.E., CMG, Syosset, HAYN ES, James F., Newark, 0 H-French tool - 24 stakes and 4 stumps - round NY-Working model of the motion movt., 20 lignes, lever esc., 2 barrels, wood holder with glass bell; Annealing works of the Elgin Direct Reading pore. dial; English movt., 17% Jignes, tool; Hamilton electric wrist watch, Watch, ca. 1956, made by Clarence Hinton, London, No. 7256, ca. 1800, 1st model on the market. Model "Ven­ Nikolai, Model Dept., Elgin Watch Co., fusee, verge, pierced cock, key w/s; tura," "500" movt., 18K case, Sl 25895; Elgin, IL, mounted in felt lined wood Ingersoll "Reliance," ca. 1897, movt. Hamilton electric wrist watch. Model: case with cover; Dey Time Register Co., No. 3119239, enamel dial, orig. hands; "Atlantis," "500" movt. Syracuse, NY, early 1900's, Time American movt., No. 45255, 18s, 15j, BROSKI, Victor, Whittier, CA-American Wal­ Clock, 28" cast iron ring, numbers up made expressly for unidentifiable tham Co . dbl. glass, metal box for ship­ to 100, 7 day drum to record "in" "Guild." name on dial S.D. Loveridge, ping or storage of watch movts., 12s; and "out" of employees, wood case, Newark, Ohio; Swiss movt., 18Y:i lignes, International Jewelry Workers Union glass window doors on both sides. No. 105875, name on dial & movt. & gold , Org . 1916. CARPENTER, Alice Mrs., Tarboro, NC-Ring L.W. Sturdevant, Newark, Ohio; Ameri­ BROUGHTON, James H., Columbus, OH­ stretcher, old. can movt., Columbus Watch Co., Hamilton "Pulsar" electronic solid state FLEMING, Coy, Warsaw, MO-K & D bow Columbus, Ohio, No. 26555, ca. 1882; quartz crystal wrist time computer, drill, steel & wood; ring clamp, wood, N.Y. Standard Watch movt., Century, 14K g.f. Case, No . 263878, ca. 1972. with steel key; brass bl ow pipe. USA, No . 1253152, 18s, ca. 1890's. BULOVA WATCH CO., Flushing, NY-Lab­ HAGANS, Orville R., Denver, C0-3 German oratory model Bulova Thermatron wrist watches; watch protector, nickel case; This list will be continued in a future watch, black dial, gold hour markers right angle copper soldering iron; Ger­ issue of the H T. and hands, black metal case and band, man blow pipe; F. Lorche lathe hand

For 37 years, sRLEJ/ one school has turned 20% OFF REGULAR PRICES out the most gifted craftsmen in America ... 1 31-748-Baldor Motor-1/3 HP double end shaft, heavy duty; Reg. $173.00. Sale $138.40.

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BULOVA SCHOOL 2 23-980-2 Speed Motor-1/10 HP low for light grinding and polishing - high speed for buffing. ALL Reg. $96.00. Sale $76.80. WATQ-IMAKING & REPAIR ANTIQUE SPEOALTIES 2 11-539-Air Compressor-Delivers up to 10 lbs. CLOCK REPAIR of air at 0.5 CFM, which is sufficient for most JEWELRY blow-torches. Reg. $89.95. Sale $71.96.

INDIANA JEWELERS SUPPLY FIND OUT WHY. 141 S. Meridian Indianapolis, Indiana 46225 The Joseph Bulova School. Since 1945, The Finest School of its Kind in America. 317-632-6346 - INQUIRIES For information on hiring or sponsoring a student please write, or call David Aboulafia at (212) 424-5344. The Joseph Bulova School is a Indiana Wats National Wats nonprofit, private and independent establishment. P.O. Box 465, 1-800-382-9973 1-800-428-2362 40-24 62nd St., Woodside, N.Y. 11377 ORDERS ONLY ORDERS ONLY

26 Horological Times/December 1983 QUESTIONS & ANSWERS (Continued from page 16)

QUARTZ MOVEMENTS Qty. Stock Ligne Thick Features Model · Interchange Price # Size -ness 12300 6% x8 3.5mm Cell Included FE 6320 FF60-ST69-BUL $11.95 6BK-Shorten Dial Feet 12301 63/4 x 8 3.5mm ESA 961.1101 FF60-ST69-BU L 11.95 6BK Shorten Dial Feet 12302 51/z x 63/4 3.6mm Cell Included ESA-INT 301.001-BUL 12.95 AS 1012-1977 12303 51/z x 63/4 3.6mm ESA 301.001 INT 301001-BUL 16.00 AS 1012-1977 12304 51/z x 6% 3.6mm ESA 588.001 ESA 977.001 16.50 12305 51/z x 63/4 3.5mm Cell Included 2500.5 Bulova 2500 17.95 12306 33/4 x 10 3.5mm ESA 102.001 Replacement for FF59-21. 27.00 12307 7% Round 3.lmm ESA 950.001 ETA 2512-Dial Feet 32.00 I have examined the photo must be changed of your minute repeater. Al­ 3 y 480 Ji though the case m;ght be 18K, 12308 6 /4 x 8 2.8mm Cell Included Pulsar 480 14.00 the movement however is of a much less 12309 6% x 8 2.8mm Cell Included y 481 Pulsar 481 16.50 quality make. It is Swiss of the 1880 12310 51/z x 6314 3.0mm Cell Included y 590 Replaces 432-Dillerent 16.95 period and used a balance escapement Dia I-Hands as the speed governor for the striking. 12360 5'/z x 63/4 2.7mm Cell Included Ronda 3572 Thin Line Movement 15.95 The movement might have been made by Hahn in Switzerland, as they were the makers of such quality repeat­ ing watches. As to the case, the head hall­ MECHANICAL mark is actually that of Helvetia crowned, facing left. It denotes. 750 gold and was MOVEMENTS used between 1880 and 1934. (Replaces AS 1012) (Replaces FF 60) I would suppose that Stammel­ bach was probably the jeweler and not Qty. Stock Ligne Thick Features Model Interchange Price the maker. No such name is listed in any # Size -ness of my numerous references. 12100 5x7 17 Jwl AS 976 Wittnauer 5S-BUL 5AL 45.00 Non Inca Henry B. Fried 12101 5x7 17 Jwl Inca Marvin 160A AS976-Dial & Hands 40.00 Supplied (Oilers) ~ 12102 3% x 10 17 Jwl Inca FF59-21 BUL 3AK-3AC-WITT 3A 29.00 12103 51/z x 6% 17 Jwl Inca AS 1977-5 AS 1012 24.50 12104 63/4 x 8 17 Jwl Inca FF69N FF60-ST69-CARA 60F 17.00 12105 ~ 3/4 Round 17 Jwl Inca ETA 2512 ETA 2510 26.00

QUANTITY PRICES AVAILABLE

NAME ------

ACCT.# ------~ PHONE ADDRESS CITY------STATE----- ZIP ------Your fellow members want P.O. BOX 43661 ST. PAUL, MN 65164 to know. Send in the news ... Esslinger NATIONAL WATS-ORDERS ONLY - 800-328-0205 MINNESOTA WATS-0.RDERS ONLY - 800-392-0334 as fast as it happens. &Cb. INQUIRES-INFORMATION - 612-452-7180 REV. 11-1-83 * December 1983/Horo/ogical Times 27 INSIDE WATCHES? and OUT!

Marvin E. Whitney, CMW, CMC, FAWI

There's A New Meaning In Pivoting

ivoting and the art of the lathe have taken on a sig­ To begin, the part to be drilled whether it be a staff nificant new meaning since the quartz explosion, or arbor is placed in the lathe and trued. With a small oil­ P not in the repairing of quartz watches but in the re­ stone slip or graver, the broken or damaged end of the staff pairing of older mechanical heirloom watches. Many of these is smoothed off by just grinding or cutting away what is pieces are being resurrected and brought in for the watchmak­ necessary. Otherwise, the replaced pivot will be too long and er to restore. Since parts for these watches are difficult to weak and it will be most difficult to blend the conical sec­ come by or are non-existent, such jobs become very profit­ tion with the pivot. On an arbor, the damaged end is squared able for the wa.tchmaker who is capable of handling this work. off even with the shoulder. Often such jobs require pivoting. But, if the watchmaker is The T-rest is positioned on the lathe near the part to to capitalize on this type of work, he must possess the neces­ be drilled and with a carboloy graver shaped like the one in sary skills to handle the lathe. If not, the results will be in­ Figure 1, the exact center is marked and a small V center with effective and unsatisfactory. One should be able to make a an angle of approximately 60° is cut. This must be carefully pivot which cannot be detected with a strong loupe once the done, for there must be no projection or "tit" in the bottom job has been completed. (Figure 2). If the burr or drill is brought into contact with It has long been the practice of most watchmakers such a cut, it will drill an off-center hole. to anneal the staff or arbor before pivoting. All of us have Select a burr that is a trifle larger than the diameter seen jobs where the staff or pinion was left discolored after of the pivot to be replaced (Figure 3). Rather than placing the job was completed. This is inexcusable and under no cir­ the burr in a pin vise , mount it in a piece of lucite or an old cumstances should this discoloration be permitted to remain. broken knitting needle. This can easily be done by just drilling However, it is not always necessary to anneal the a small hole in the lucite and forcing the shank of the burr piece if one has the proper tempered tools. Carbide burrs, into the hole. Holding the burr in this manner allows you to the type used by your dentist and which can be purchased feel what you are doing, gives you better control, and you from dental supply houses in a variety of sizes, are ideally are able to ease up on the pressure should you feel the burr suited for drilling. Often by just asking your dentist he will grabbing. During the drilling operation the lathe should be be happy to save you his discarded burrs. They are still useful turning at a slow speed and the burr is alternately driven in and very effective in our work. and out in order to remove the chips. The depth of the hole

Figure 1 Figure 3

Figure 2

28 Horological Times/December 1983 should be approximately one and one-half that of the pivot. corner, opt to make a hairline cut exactly in the corner with This being done, select a small piece of hardened a fine pointed graver in order to reduce the possibility of the pivot wire or an English sewing needle having a diameter corner of the lap or slip becoming rounded (Figure 6). slightly larger than the hole, and cut or grind a very slight taper on it until it fits to about two thirds the depth of the hole. The plug is cut off, the length being slightly more than Figure 6 that of the hole, plus the length of the new pivot. After making certain that the hole is clean and free of boring chips, coat the end of the tapered plug with Loctite ® and force the plug home. When using Loctite®, all mating surfaces must be clean and free of any oily substances. It cures rather quick­ ly and once it sets up, it's very difficult to break the joint unless heat is applied to it. The plug can be forced home by pressing the wheel over the plug or the plug into the wheel or The slip or lap should be dressed with a very fine by giving it a couple very slight taps with a hammer. Care file, the lines of which run crosswise so as to retain the cut­ must be taken on the lathe so as not to bend the pivot or place tin or grinding compound. During the grinding and/or polish­ undue pressure on the walls of the drilled hole (Figure 4 ). ing operation, the lathe should be run at a rather high speed. 111e slips should be held square to the work and applied lightly to the work using very short strokes, no more than one quarter to a half inch. Make ceitain tllat you grind and polish righ t up to the shoulder and be careful not to hrow up a ridge as it may affect the endshake. ~---~ After the pivot is ground to size, the final finish is achieved with a boxwood slip charged with dry diamantine ''·---~7---~ or diamantine mixed with a little oil-NOTE: a little oil. Often the mistake is made by using too much oil. As you are f applying the lap or slip, watch for the formation of a black Figure 4 coating on the slip. This will indicate to you where contact is being made between the slip and work thus enabling you to control the manipulation of the slip against the entire sur­ face of the pivot. At this stage, the polishing compound Let me reemphasize that the plug should be almost should be quite dry. When the total polished area appears perfectly round with a very slight taper. If the taper is gradual black, stop polishing-for if you continue, th.e polishing com­ and there's a tight fit, there will be little danger of the plug pound may flake off exposing tlle metal which may ruin your working out while finishing up the pivot. However, if the tar>er effort and polished work. is too great, there is the risk of splitting the walls of the hole Since boxwood and diamantine are difficult to when the plug is driven home. The pivot (plug) is now ready come by in some areas, a maple slip will work just as well. to be ground and polished to size and the end finished off Instead of diamantine, try Raybrite B® which is a whitish to the correct length. powder (alumina). It is very similar to ctiamantine, and can The finishing of the pivot can be done with a me­ be purchased at most shops. Also, there are some dia­ chanical pivot polisher or with hand-held slips. The grinding slip mond powders (which are water soluble and contained in can be made of soft iron and/or bell-metal and charged with a syringe) that are also available from lapidary shops which fme oilstone powder mixed with oil. One corner of the slip are excellent for grinding and/or polishing. They are rather should be rounded slightly to conform to the cone of the inexpensive: 1 gram, 1 micron, 14,000 mesh water soluble pivot, while the other corner should have a sharp acute an­ retails for approximately $2.75. gled edge so it will reach the comer of the pivot (Figure 5). Most of us have been taught that the next step in The curved radius on the rounded corner must be less at the the finishing operation is to burnish the balance pivot. Bur­ outer end and gradually greater towards the handle in order nishing does indeed provide a hard smooth finish to the pivot, to accommodate any radius or curve desired on the conical which is certainly desirable . But it is difficult to burnish section of the staff. Some workmen, when grinding a square balance pivots satisfactorily in the lathe without special accessories because sufficient pressure cannot be applied to the staff. However, a fine steel burnisher may be used to burnish the end. Remember that the end of the balance pivot should be nearly flat with just a slight radius near the edge. Be careful not to bear too hard and throw or rub up a burr on the side of the pivot. Should you deem it necessary to anneal the staff or arbor, do so, but only enough to permit it to be cut. Don't overdo it!-the arbor should be left as hard as possible so it will grip the new pivot. If the arbor to be pivoted carries its wheel near the end, drill a small hole in the end of a piece of copper wire or use a short piece of copper tubing. Fit the piece over the end of the pivot and apply the flame to the free end. The heat Figure 5 will transverse the length of the copper wire rather quickly. (Continued on page 35)

December 1983/Horological Times 29 l CK

Fred S. Burckhardt

Yuletide Spirits

ince it's the Yuletide Season, we're going to post­ I remembered all the customers who came in a few days be­ pone article #4 until January. No one has read the fore Christmas with grandpa's old watch, which hasn't seen S first three articles, so it really doesn't make any light for thirty years, wanting it put into good condition for difference anyway. Instead, I'm going to tell you about a "Little Leroy's" present. Then there was Mrs. Tytewadd, dream I had a few weeks ago. who wanted a nice gift for Aunt Brenda Sue but didn't want I found myself standing in a courtroom in front of to spend more than $3.49, because that was all her aunt a judge. It seems that I had been accused of a dastardly deed­ paid for her gift last year. I remembered the man who spent I returned a repair job to a customer and they didn't have hours selecting just the right gift for his wife-she brought any trouble with it. The prosecuting attorney, in his closing it back on the 26th. I remembered all the people who pur­ argument, said that I had given the watchmaking profession chased things elsewhere and got angry because we wouldn't a bad name and recommended that I be put away for life, engrave, size or whatever in time for Christmas. I remembered or longer, whichever the case may be. The judge, who was a the "phonies" who come in for the first time with a big descendant of Seth Thomas, was about to hand down the sen­ "Hello," calling you by your first name and acting like a long tence. He arose from his chair, walked down to where I was lost relative, hoping to get a better price on something. I re­ standing, and ripped off the membership patch from my AWi membered the little old lady who, when refused a senior jacket. He then took the loupe from my glasses, dropped it citizen discount on something already on sale, let out with to the floor and stomped on it. As if this were not enough some language that would have made a sailor blush. disgrace, he reached into my pocket, pulled out my favorite Then I remembered all the sweet little tots who haunt hairspring tweezers, and broke them in two. I could hear the stores looking for Santa. When they see there isn't a Santa murmuring and gasping from those in the packed courtroom. in the store, they start to play with the crystal giftware and The humiliation was unbearable. music boxes-that is, until they spy the business cards and When he returned to his seat, the judge looked me brochures on the counter. Tearing these up is a lot more fun. straight in the eyes and a queer sneer came over his face. He I remembered the little girl with curly, blond hair who spit then said, "Since this is your first offense, I'm going to be leni­ at me when I told her to leave the ornaments on the tree ent with you. You can have your choice, twenty years at alone. hard labor or spend the month before Christmas in a jewelry I remembered the long hours and being worn out store." by the time Christmas arrived. Then I remembered the co­ I asked if I could have some time to think it over, workers, friendly all year long, but the friendship turned to but he declined. It was a tough decision. All I could think of hostility by the 15th of December. This was shown especi­ was being penned up with thieves, robbers, unruly individu­ ally by those who worked in the shop. It isn't much fun walk­ als creating all sorts of mayhem, associating with people ing around with a graver stuck in your back. Thank goodness who had no class, no dignity, no couth and worse of all, no no customers were looking when "Jo Jo" made the obscene scruples. Surely prison would be better than the foregoing gesture through the shop window. I wonder if he was the environment found in a jewelry store! same one who wrote those terrible things about Santa on the My mind started to drift back to Christmases past ... wall?

30 Horological Times/December 1983 PICKLE BARREL (Continued from page 23)

. I have always given a firm price when custom making I remembered the nice gifts received from co-workers, Jewelry. My flat rate labor prices are high enough so that like the French cuffs-no sleeves or shirt, just the cuffs-I rar~ly do I. come up short. On repairs I usually give a sliding stapled them to my jacket sleeves. Gave them a nice touch. estlmat~ with a low and a high. With this understanding, if And then I remembered the inevitable fruit cake. I don't something unforeseen develops that causes the job to run believe I ever met anyone who liked fruit cake. I swear, one over the high estimate, I will contact the customer for ap­ time I received the same one back I gave to someor1e else proval. I cannot remember when a customer has questioned three years earlier. Those suckers never go bad. I really be­ my charges when picking up their work, so for me this system lieve there was just one batch made many years ago, and these works. If something works better for you-use it! same ones are passed on year after year after year. I wish this There is one important necessity to be successful in tradition would change. Why not give something nice-like making or repairing jewelry or in doing any other kind of escargots smothered in whipped cream? ~ork. This is to have self confidence. If you think you can do Suddenly, I was brought back to reality when I i'.-no doubt you can! After enough practice, what you· at one heard the judge say, "Well, make up your mind! Which will tlme only thought you could do, now you know you can do it be?" It didn't take long for me to say, "111 take the twenty it. Everyone makes goofs at one time or another-I have cer­ years hard labor." tainly made my share of them! But after a few years of ex­ Pandemonium broke loose in the courtroom. The perience, I take the attitude that when I goof up, at least I spectators were shouting, "No, no, don't let him off that can repair it and get it back in as good or better shape than it easily.' I looked at the judge who was laughing as hard as he was originally. With this attitude of positive thinking anyone could. He called for order, then said, "I was just kidding. can get to feel comfortable with the toughest of jobs. You have no choice. It's the jewelry store for you and may there be mercy on your soul." I woke up in a cold sweat. I shaved, slammed down some sausage and eggs, and went to work. When I got to the store, I could see someone had torn down a few of the Christ­ mas decorations and twisted Santa's figure into a configuration that would be considered by most as very undignified. After waiting on Mts. Tytewadd I went into the shop to check on Now you can give a job. On the way out I felt a sharp pain in the middle of my QUARTZ fast results with the back. "Just a touch of arthritis ' I thought. Then I noticed exactness of factory this little girl with curly blond hair, fooling around with the specifications with ornaments on the Christmas tree ... WATCH Microcomputer Sen­ somatic Pedestal and ANALYZER VTSS. MODEL OWA-5: * Two year warranty against defects in materials and workmanship. Why Not Drop lls A J Note1 JEWELERS SUPPLY, INC. 2025 Canal Street New Orleans, LA 70112 EXPRESS YOURSELF! What you do like ... Phone (504) 822-0294 what you don't like AWi/ Louisiana WATS (800) 362-8509 about the Horological Times Outside Louisiana (800) 535-8560 Horological Times. 3700 Harrison Avenue Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 "A COMPLETE SUPPLY HOUSE"

December 1983/Horological Times 31 Milton C. Stevens

Reflections on 1983

s the year draws to a close it seems natural to look assistance and training its members have come to expect. back on the events of the year and reflect on the Presently two new watch repair programs are being developed A\ success, near successes, failures and disappointments. and an expanded clock repair schedule will help those whose One of the real successes for 1983 as far as I am concerned interests focus in that area. was the tum-around in the AWi financial picture. We went It is easy to bring AWi courses into your area. We from a rather sizeable deficit in the previous year to a modest can bring in almost any workshop that we sponsor, provided surplus in 1983. All of you who are billed on a calendar year the area will generate enough advance registrations to insure basis know that we are in the process of receiving annual dues that the travel costs, etc. involved in presenting the program for 1984. Payment of annual dues upon receipt of your first generates enough revenue to insure at least a "break even" statement not only saves the expense of printing and post­ situation. If you have been sitting back hoping that a speci­ age, it also conserves on time the office staff must devote fic workshop would come to your area, please contact me at to the dues collection process. Prompt payment helps us to AWI Central. You and I will work together to set up a date make better use of your annual dues. Because the inflation and location. From this beginning, the responses to the course rate has been held to almost zero, we have been able to hold announcements will determine whether the course can actually the line on dues for 1984. be held. See page 38 of this issue to determine just which Recently I read with considerable interest an article courses are available. in the October Jewelers' CTrcular Keystone which appeared It is with a great sense of personal loss that we re­ in the "Associations" section. The article reported on a rec­ call the recent death of Dorothy Aderman. Dorothy had ently completed Gallup survey which reached 408 members served on the AWi Board in almost every capacity. She had of 100 national professional associations. Of those responding, been a Director for many terms, AWi Secretary, Treasurer 74% reported that they think they are getting their money's and Vice President. Her willingness to accept responsibility worth for the dues they pay. It was especially interesting to and then work tirelessly to carry out that responsibility is note that the average annual dues were $200 per year. a quality that will be sorely missed by AWI and watchmakers The publication of professional journals was reported in her adopted state of Florida. Although gravely ill, she worked to be one of the most important jobs of an association as re­ to the final days to put together this year's Florida State ported in the survey. Education was the next most desired Watchmakers Convention. Ironically, Dorothy died while association benefit mentioned by 91% of those responding to the convention was in progress. the poll, and 88% want their association to maintain profes­ It is my understanding that the Florida State Watch­ sional standards. makers Association is establishing a memorial scholarship In Ohio, my professional dues as a teacher are $235 in the name of Dorothy Aderman. We do not have details per year, and I receive only a fraction of the services AWI at the time of writing this article. However, if you want to offers on a dues structure of only $35 per year. AWi member­ participate, drop me a note and I will see that the details are ship has got to be one of the real bargains left today. If you sent to you. know of someone who has interests in watch repair, clock On a happier note we want to extend to Benjamin repair or horology in general, send us their name and address. Matz our sincere best wishes for a happy retirement. Ben We will send them a membership brochure so that they too leaves the Bulova Watch Company after having served many can enjoy this special bargain. years in the watch industry. I have always found Ben Matz For most of 1983, we have seen a renewed con­ willing to "go the extra mile" whenever an AWi member was fidence in the economy and a general upswing in business in need of help with a specific problem, whether it dealt with as the figures of 1983 are compared to those of the previous Bulova or not. We expect to continue to call on Ben's ex­ year. We expect that 1984 will continue with this upward pertise even in retirement. Knowing Ben Matz, I'm sure he trend. However, a survey recently conducted by the Watch will continue to respond in a positive way. Industry Coalition reveals that most repairers of timepieces Finally, I would like to thank you, the members of expect to see fewer mechanical timepieces in their shops and the Institute, for your continued support and cooperation. a considerable increase in battery-operated timepieces. This We hope that the new year will be a happy, healthy and really should be no surprise to anyone. With this in mind, prosperous one! AWI cannot let up on its efforts to provide the technical

32 Horological Times/December 1983 The overhaul is nearly complete now. Install the CHIME AND STRIKE clickwheels (or ratchet wheels), ratchet cocks, clicks, and (Continued from page 10) clickspri.ngs. Fit the pallets and the back cock. Make sure the lift lever and the rack move freely. The lift lever in particular, must nor be too loose, either. This is because the cannon on-then ease the plates slightly apart. Leave two pillar pins pinion, which has the t wo strike lift pins driven into it, must in place so the whole movement doesn t come apart. Move lift and release the lever every hour and half hour. If the lever the rear warning arbor pivot out of its hole, without forcing, is loose it may drop off the pin too soon and cause erratic and turn the wheel around to the desired position before striking. Excessive clearance under the pin and washer can be putting the pivot back in place. Check the strike train for corrected by using a very thin washer or shim under the tapered correct warning and locking action before going on. pin. Next, install the gathering pallet (8) and the rack (9). Our clock is a gong strike; there is no bell mounted The gathering pallet should be oriented so that it points away on the movement. But for either gong or bell movements, from the rack (at a 10 to 12 o'clock position) when the strike the hammer must be adjusted. With the movement installed train is at rest. The gathering pallet rotates once with each in the case, check the hammer action. It sho·uld hit the gong turn of the locking wheel, and naturally it gathers up one rack (or bell) once for each strike and not bounce several times tooth for each hammer blow. Then the rack hook drops un­ upon it or rest on ii between strikes. Bouncing may be un­ derneath the end of the rack, the locking lever moves down controllable unless you give some attention to the pin which to stop the lock pin. At this point, the gathering pallet must projects from the rear plate, under the hanuner arbor. Bend be clear of the rack. Refer to Figure 5. it slightly if necessary, so that the hammer will contact it Press the pillar pins in tigb tly, because you Should as the hammer hits. This will limit the bouncing. Without it not have to separate the plates again . You are ready to install the stop pin inside the movement is the onty means of restrain­ the cannon pinion (13) minute wheel (14), hour wheel and ing the hammer. Both should act upon the hammer. If you snail (11 and 12) and minute wheel cock (15). Adjust the should have to bend the hammer shaft itself ·ro make it closer snail position before installing the minute wheel cock. This to or further away from the gong or bell use care. Grasp the adjustment is accomplished on most French rack striking shaft with a pair of , near end away from the hammer clocks (including this one) by lining up marks on the hour head. Bend with another pair of pliers held closer to the ham­ wheel, cannon pinion, and minute wheel. When they are in mer 11ead. Form it gently· do not make sharp bends. line with each other, install the minute wheel cock. Double Check to be suTe the clock begins striking as exact­ check by verifying that the rack tail (10) falls to the lowest ly as possible on the hours and half hours. You can make point on the curved snail for 12 o'clock, and rests on the high­ the clock strike earlier or later by moving the minute hanci est part of the snail for one o'clock. (Continued on page 48)

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Name~------Address City/S tat_e....,/ =z,,....·p------December 1983/Horological Times 33 Scholastically Speaking

By Alice Carpenter, CEWS

The Rapid Progress In W atchmal~ing

TO: Horological Instructors FROM: Tom Imai, CMW, CEWS iiiam writing to you instructors tivation? Do you feel insecure in your mentum. Changes will come at an ever­ from the lobby of the Symes present position? Then I urge you to at­ hastening pace over the next few years Hotel in Hot Springs, Montana. tend. This year, as in the past, the REC as the snowball effect engulfs us all. In this lobby there is a ball-bearing clock. meeting will be held the last week in Will we as instructors be pre­ Every minute a steel ball rattles and June, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and pared to meet the deluge of advance­ clatters down the chute as if to say "time Thursday. Why should you attend? The ments in technology? Only if we stay is precious." Through the window east­ reason is the watch industry is progress­ abreast of the changes by taking advan­ ward lies the beautiful Flathead Valley ing at a phenomenal rate. This could tage of the instruction available to REC. and further east many, many miles away be the year when multifunction watches We have an excellent program is Cincinnati, Ohio. This is the home of will have only one button and can be committee who is putting a lot of effort the American Watchmakers Institute and voice programmed (1984). Within the in choosing the best possible programs the Research and Education Council, next few years, a watch will be capable for REC in 1984. which is composed of members of the of correcting itself every 15 seconds Perhaps we as REC instruc­ horological schools in the United States (1985). You ask: why the accuracy? tors have not been as voluble as we and Canada. The seminars at their ses­ I believe that the future of transporta­ should be in our thanks to AWI for sions are for the benefit of instructors tion is speed. Look at the shuttle plane­ providing the opportunity to attend of horological schools, AWI instructors in the not-so-distant future, they will the seminars and sessions. On behalf and factory instructors who will be par­ be able to orbit without a booster. of each member of REC, I hereby offer ticipating in and presenting seminars. Travel will one day be the speed of light my heartfelt thanks to each AWI Board ''Two years ago in 'Scholastical­ which is 186,260 miles per second member responsible for providing this ly Speaking' in Horological Times, (2000). There will also be watches that opportunity. I wrote an article on microcomputers can be programmed by brain impulses. and what affect they would have on the As you can see, there is no end to the watch industry. The message of this possibilities of the future regarding the article was 'instructors, you must take field of hi-tech watches. heed of the high technology microcompu­ "In summation, watch companies· HAVING ters.' The same year, a seminar was held wil1 be presenting technical and bench at the REC meeting which outlined courses on the market two years from the steps required to earn a CEWS degree. now; therefore, we urge you to attend As a result of this meeting, instructors the 1984 REC meeting. It is imperative obtained the knowledge necessary to pre­ to be updated today-tomorrow is too pare themselves for passing the CEWS late." examination. The instructors who attend­ Yes, I must agree with Tom. ed have taken advantage of this program. Technology in the watchmaking indus­ AWi HOTLINE "Horological instructors, do you try has made rapid progress in the past (513) 661-4636 feel you need more technical data? Mo- few short years, but is still gaining mo-

34 Horological Times/December 1983 WATCHES INSIDE & OUT Battery News (Continued from page 29) By Ewell Hartman, CMW

Due to the placement of the wheel on the arbor, it is some­ Battery Number System times possible to apply the heat directly to the arbor. Do not As a member of AWi, you recently re­ allow the color to reach the brass wheel or pinion leaves. ceived a copy of the most complete and accurate Occasionally, we find an arbor that is difficult to cut battery number system available today. You need or drill, even after it has been annealed. Our tools are sharp refer only to this one source to determine inter­ but the piece still resists our drilling or cutting effort. There changeability and specifications for watch batteries. are many various compositions of steel and they all, due to Extra copies are available from AWi for $3.00, their metallurgical consistency, react differently to the heat­ postpaid. treating process. Sometimes a piece of steel will air harden when the Service Ideas flame is removed too quickly from the piece being treated. A year ago, we suggested the use of small self­ To reduce this cause, apply the heat gradually and when the desired temper color is about to appear, continue to apply sticking labels in the back of the watch case for the flame but back off a trifle, remembering not to remove marking the AWi drawer number. We have discovered the heat suddenly. Should this not work, heat a charcoal that these labels can interfere with proper battery block until it glows and then force the warmed arbor into connection in some watches or can cause pressure the block and let it remain there until it cools. on the movement in ultra-thin watches. We have The drilling operation is facilitated by using a lubri­ now solved this problem! Sanford's "Sharpie"®, cant, such as light oil, kerosene or turpentine. As you with­ extra fine-point marker No. 35001 (available at your draw the drill to remove the chips, dip the drill in a lubricant. local office supply) will clearly and semi-permanent­ There is another product on the market, known as Tapeze® ly mark the inside of all case backs. This will give which is ideally suited for this type of work and speeds up you a fast future reference without creating any the cutting action. It's a lubricant used by machinists and is problems. available through machinist suppliers. At times, during the drilling operation, the drill will cease to cut. Generally, one has a tendency to increase the (Continued on page 40) pressure and/or speed up the lathe. However, such action only compounds the problem for it generates a great deal more heat which softens the drill and dulls the cutting edges, which in turn burnishes the bottom of the hole, making it even more difficult to cut. G™ This burnished surface can be removed by either -BERGEON re-annealing the piece or using a flat chisel-shaped drill. The WATERPROOF cutting edges of such a shaped drill will attack the outer edges TESTER of the burnished surface which are not burnished as hard, until it bottoms out. Then resume drilling with a regular har­ Watches can be tested dened re-sharpened drill . under normal conditions Occasionally we find a wheel and pinion so posi­ of wear without inducing tioned on the arbor that our only recourse in holding it for water into the case. pivoting is with cement . Mount the brasses in a cement chuck and turn the end flat. Strike dead center and then drill a hole just deep and wide enough to accept the arbor. (Continued on page 39) Gives customers a quick and convincing dem­ onstration of the water resistance of a watch.

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December 1983/Horological Times 35 Affiliate Chapter Column /Walter Riegler

Profile: Typical Affiliate Chapter of AWi

ast month we viewed a composite picture of our have all our meetings at a well-known inn and restaurant Affiliate Chapters of the AWi. This month we will centrally located in New Jersey. Our membership is still grow­ see a profile of the New Jersey chapter. Since I am a ing, now approximately 135, and we have a good attendance part of the association and it has helped me a great deal over due to team effort and an excellent program chairman and the years, I can only write in the first person plural. secretary, John Sokol. It all began in the l 930's when a small group of We also assigned positions to all our directors, who determined watchmakers began meeting to discuss ways of are also elected by the membership as are our officers. The elevating their craft to higher standards and sharing their directors meet five times a year. We have an editor who is a knowledge with each other. They formally organized on May member-director to publish our bulletin before every meeting. 18, 1939. Our meetings are held nine times a year, omitting July, August There were a number of purposes and objectives. The and December. We have two overall mailings a year when all association would promote and educate its fellow watch­ potential watchmakers, guests, etc. are contacted. We do not makers, with the general public gaining better repair service; have paid ads, but we have discussed it because of the rising and to prosecute those guilty of unfair trade practices with costs of operating a non-profit association. Our dues will be expulsions, suspensions and fines. One objective that never $25.00 starting in 1984. We have "Life Members," those quite succeeded was a licensing law. The original constitution members who have been in good standing for 25 years. We and by-laws were adopted in August 1939 in north Jersey. The have two honorary members, Mr. Fried and Mr. Haiman. We right to charter local guilds was included at this time. Soon also have a state flag and a watch with our chapter logo on the afterwards a south Jersey chapter was formed. Then in the late dial. 1950's a central Jersey group began discussing the possibility Our annual anniversary meeting is held in May. of forming another guild to be named the Central Jersey Members and spouses are encouraged to come out for fun, Watchmakers Guild. The guild elected their own officers and refreshments and an auction. In November we have our directors and arranged their own programs. annual dinner-dance featuring prizes and awards. This is The post-war era, 1945-1955, produced more watch­ usually timed to occur the same week as our last business makers than ever before. There were at least six schools meeting of the year. between New York City and Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, with New Jersey has never sent a president to Cincinnati, New Jersey in between. Then came a recession, fewer employ­ but we have a lot of talent. We proudly count among our ment opportunities, and most schools began to close. First the members: Don DeWolf (Mr. Accutron) of Portescap; Henry South Jersey Guild had to discontinue, then the Central Jersey Frystak of Bulova; Steven Conover, technical writer for the Guild did likewise. I was the last president of the Central Jer­ Horological Times; Lou Zanoni of Zantech; Joe Barbieri of sey Guild. Incidentally, we have had 18 presidents in our 44 Bulova; Ed Pedzy of Zenith; L & R; S. LaRose; DRS of N.Y.; years. George J. Doehrman was the first president of the state and last but not least, our president, Joe Cerullo, "Dick Lang association and Joseph Cerullo is now serving his first term as Award" winner and WOSTEP scholar selectee and graduate. president. Yes we have a bundle of talent, but what is most We had a declining membership until the middle and important is that it is being shared by these fellow watch­ late 1970's. We decided to make some changes and began to makers and with all our members. rotate our meetings every other month to different areas of Have a happy holiday and a healthy new year. the state to come to the watchmaker. Then we settled down to

36 Horological Times/December 1983 ... from all around the ASSOCIATION ...

NEW YORK The 45th Annual Convention of the New York State Watch­ makers was held in Auburn, NY recently. The three-day event got started with the Friday night board meeing, followed by Saturday's events, which required a larger meeting room due to the larger-than-expected attendance there. Convention Chairman Curley Muller had an excellent program which included Jim Luziette who presented ' Material Handling,' Robin Platt from L & R, and Mike Jenner spoke on "Compu­ ters and the Watchmaker. Also on hand Saturday night Instructor Robert Bishop and Carolyn Leeth, during the "Common Sense Quartz Watch Repair" seminar held re­ was Ewell Hartman who presented "Coping With Changes cently in Huntsville, Alabama. and Challenges, ' followed by a panel discussion chaired by Another scene from the seminar President of the ew York State Watchmakers Julius Maier. 'D1ere was an evening dinner followed by a report on the A WT Meeting by Paul D. Wadsworth, and also a presentation of awards and door prizes. Afterwards was a Show & Tell, Swap & Sell segrnen l. The women were taken on three historical tours and a shopping trip to the Finger Lakes Mall, all organized by Agnes Compson. On Sunday, Don DeWolf spoke on "Diagnosing Watch Problems," Tom La Rose came with his coat lined with new and different watches and clocks, and Henry Frystak presented "How to Make a Profit in Watch Repair." Later in the day, the annual business meeting and election of officers came, followed by a buffet lunch and more door prizes. CALIFORNIA The Sacramento Watchmakers Association had an excellent presentation recently by James Broughton of AWi on ESA Quartz and Pulsar Quartz movements. There were 15 watch­ makers from Northern California present for this training session. TEXAS The Texas Watchmakers Association, Inc. recently held their meeting at the Piccadilly in Northline Mall. They featured Joe Reitman, who gave a slide presentation on counterfeit watches. ALABAMA The Alabama Watchmakers Association, an affiliate member of the AWI for five years, is active in putting on two seminars a year. The most recent one, held in Huntsville, AL, on "Common Sense Quartz Watch Repair" (Robert Bishop, instructor) drew attendance from residents from Alabama, Georgia, Kentucky, Tennessee, and Florida. The Alabama Watchmakers Association meets the third Wednesday of every month (except December) at the Members of New Jersey Watchmakers Association gather Community Meeting .Room in Huntsville. It is located at the round Henry B . Fried after his talk to their organiza­ Federal Building, 4008 University Drive, N. W. Any mail is tion recently. Left to right: Aldolph Stonitsch, Mr. Fried, sent to: AWA, P. 0. Box 5102, Huntsville, AL 35805. Herb Sheldon, and Al Marquardt.

December 1983/Horological Times 37 We Salute These New Members! AWi Bench Courses 1983 BARBER, Jimmy D.-Kilgore, TX BOWMAN, Linda-Milwaukee, WI BRAMMER, John E.-Ridgecrest, CA PROGRAMS INSTRUCTORS BRAUNDMEIER, Timothy-Richland Center, WI A Basic Electricity & Use of Meters Jaeger BUSCH, Theodore B.-EI Paso, TX B AWi Certified Citizen Quartz CASTRONUOVO, John J.-Glen Rock, NJ Watch Technician Carpenter CHUM NEY, Elmer H.-Santa Clara, CA C (a) Citizen LCD Multi-Alarm Broughton CLAWSON, Lewis-Avonmore, PA c (b) FHF 965 Broughton COULOMBE, Roger A.-Claremont, CA C (c) Pulsar Broughton DESCHLER, William-Appleton, WI D Seiko Quartz Analog end LCD Smith E Intro. to Solid State Watch Repair Nelson DUDLEY, John H.-Richmond, VA F Fundamentals of Solid State Watch FIN KE LSTEIN, Seth-Santa Cruz, CA Repair Opp FLAMENCO, Manuel-San Francisco, CA G Repairing the ESA 900.911 GACKI, Peter F.-Waynesboro, PA Digital/Analog Biederman GENTRY, R. E.-Great Falls, MT H Clock Restoration Benesh GETTNER, David-Pleasanton, CA Introduction to Striking Clocks Baier GRAHAM, Robert C.-Amarillo, TX J Common Sense Quartz HAUSER, Edward J.-Lees Summit, MO Watch Repair Bishop HERNANDEZ, David G.-Milwaukee, WI K Introduction to Clock Repair Benesh & HINZY, Harry T.-Confluence, PA Whitney KALLAS, Chris M.- Kansas City, KS L Bulova Quartz 262 and 2500 Sustachek M Striking Clocks-Advanced Seminar Baier KA YE, Marvin C.-Hanson, MA KING, John Ellis-Milwaukee, WI KOZAK, Richard-Trenton, Canada KRZES, Joseph-Houston, TX FEBRUARY, 1984 LOFTON, William D.-Louisville, KY MANNABERG, Cary-Champaign, IL 19 B Chicago, IL CARPENTER MORGAN, Peter J.-Schenectady, NY 24 G Bloomington, MN BIEDERMAN MOSS, Floyd W.-Paris, TX OWENS, Glenn-Sumiton, AL PEOPLES, Bill-Benbrook, TX PETERSON, Joseph T.-Mifwaukee, WI MARCH 1984 PITTS, Richard--'Wichita, KS PLANES, Peter F. II-Coral Gables, FL 24-25 J Rochester, NY BISHOP PLATT, Robin A.-Kearny, NJ SAMPLE, Jim-Hemet, CA SCHREINER, George W., Jr.-Alexandria, VA SHAVER, Donald E.-Bainbridge Island, WA APRIL 1984 TAYLOR, Henderson-Milwaukee, WI TAYLOR, William L.-Paris, TX 14-15 J Chicago, IL BISHOP TIX, Munson H., Jr.-Houston, TX 28 D Clare, Ml SMITH TRACY, Fred M.-Heath, OH 29 B Clare, Ml CARPENTER TROOP, Albert B.-Milwaukee, WI WATSON, Michael W.-Houston, TX WEATHERLY, Ann-Fort Worth, TX WOODWARD, Brice-Laguna Beach, CA MAY 1984

19-20 J St. Paul, MN BISHOP

..•...... •...... • •I * Slola Supported * Cer1ificole of Meri1 Award By The U S. Dep1 of I AM INTERESTED IN YOUR BENCH COURSE TO BE PRE-• * low Ou1-Qf.s101e Tuition Ro1u Education * Financial Aid Available Ta Eligible S1udents * Accredited By Commission On Colleges, Southern • * Stole ond Fe,derally Approved For The Hondicoppe-d Association of Colleoes and Schools SENTED ON AT• * College Housing Available * Succusfully Training Employe1tS For lhe Jewelry I * Approved For Ve1.rons Training Industry Since 1~<42 .PLEASE SEND ME MORE 1 Students entering the programs have the option of earning either a certificate or an ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Auoclata of Appllad Science degree. Many universities accept this degree for credit INFORMATION. toward a Bachelor's Oegrea. FOR INFORMATION CONTACT THE DIVISION OF JEWELRY, HOROLOGY, NAME :~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ AND GEMOLOGY PARIS JUNIOR COLLEGE ADDRESS :~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 2400 CLARKSVILLE STREET PARIS, TEXAS 75460 CITY .STATE, ZIP: AN EOUAl ACCESS INSTITUTION (214) 785-7661, Ed. 38D •••.••...... •••....•••••..••....•..•.•......

38 Horological Times/December 1983 WATCHES INSIDE & OUT (Continued from page 35) with a pointed piece of pegwood resting on the T-rest against the end of the hub or projection, true up the arbor. While rotating the lathe slowly, apply heat to the brasses After the work has been completed, reheat the and dab some shellac on the end. Do not overheat the brasses brasses and remove the part. Place the part in alcohol or some so as to bum the shellac, because it will lose its adhesiveness. commercial solvent until the shellac is dissolved. If the part Reheat and, while the lathe is revolving, slowly insert the is not too delicate, some of the excess shellac may be scraped arbor and press it firmly and squarely against the flat end of or chipped off which will speed up the removal process. the brasses (Figures 7 and 8). With the T-rest set at an angle to the end piece, reheat just enough to soften the shellac and So, the next time you drill, try a burr.

Figure 7 Figure 8

We're interested in your color slides.

The American Watchmakers Institute knows If your color slide is used, you will receive an that there is a wealth of talent in its member­ 8Yi x 11 inch color photo, 1/100 of a limited ship and that this talent is not only in the edition. It will be framed and sent to you for field of horology. There is seldom a gathering your enjoyment. of a group of watchmakers and where a camera is not also there. Mail your color slide with description to:

Those of you who pride yourself in the beauty Horological Times of your camera work can possibly participate P.O. Box 11011 in having your own picture reproduced on Dept. 31 the cover of Horological Times. The covers of Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Horological Times are reproduced from color transparencies or slides. Remember, the format is scenery or nature and what you All slides become the property of the American submit must be a color slide. Color photos are Watchmakers Institute. not acceptable.

December 1983/Horological Times 39 r>enc.h Tip6

Joe Crooks

REGARDING THE ETA 956 AND ELGIN HAIRSPRINGS . ..

rJ(1 he following tips are from Ralph Geiger, CMW of In­ Re-colleting Elgin Hairsprings _B_ dianapolis, Indiana. Most of these electronic tips are I recently had a 21/o size Elgin in for repair on which over my head, so I will make no comments, except: the hairspring had come loose from the collet. It was the new­ Don't go away, Ralph!-you may be called on later for more er cemented collet rather than pinned. I found this was quite details. nicely repaired by heating the collet with a micro-electronics soldering iron and shellacking the hairspring back in the groove. High Current Consumption in the ETA 956 Flatline II I find that I have to agree with the editorial in the The ETA 956 calibre will, after replacing the cell, have March '83 issue-the bench tips are perhaps the most valu­ a very high current consumption. The consumption may be able items in the magazine. I can think of at least three tips in the milliampere range. Consumption this high will rapidly you've published that I utilize several times each day which drain the cell. To eliminate this, one should always make sure make my work easier. I hope that these tips, as well as others that the stem has been pulled out the third position and then of mine you've published on two other occasions, find useful­ pushed back into the first or running position after the cell ness among the members. 'U[]J3 has been replaced. The watch should have normal consump­ tion after this is done. Send your tips to: Jingle Joe. AWi Central, 3700 Harrison Ave., Cincinnati, Ohio 45211.

BATTERY NEWS (Continued from page 35)

It's about tiIDe .•• Industry News MAXELL CORPORATION OF AMERICA, The Digital ~ 60 Oxford Drive, Moonachie, NJ 07074 has included 1 the AWi battery numbers adjacent to the specifica­ Electronic ;;-~ tions in their new Cross-Reference Guide for Silver Oxide Watch Batteries. We appreciate this considera­ tion by this major manufacturer of miniature batter­ Watch ies. Tum M. Hyltin NB SALES COMPANY, 32250 Red Clover Fonnerly of Texas lnst1uments Road, Farmington Hills, Ml 48018, has published a new Watch and Calculator Battery Cross-Reference 224 pp, illus. o-' ~ . S19 951 Wall Chart, listing all types of miniature batteries in cross-reference as well as in conversions. This new It's about time someone wrote a complete, non­ chart includes the AWi battery numbers and can be technical guide to help you keep up with the digital obtained from them for $1.00 to cover postage and watch revolution. Here, in this one book, you '11 find all handling. you need to know about how they work, how they're "NOW AVAILABLE! Ordering by AWi num­ designed, and how to repair them. You really can't afford bers - we are able to process orders with any battery to be without this handbook, WJitten hy one of the numbers or drawers, but we support and believe the original developers of electronic watches. AWi numbering system to be the best for future Horological Time" reference." This is the heading on the new order PO Box 11011. Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 Yes. please rush me '"The Digital 1£lectronk Watch." I am cncJosing blanks currently used by R&T DISTRIBUTORS, $ 2 I .4 5 (cost $19 .9 5 plus $1 .5 o for postage) U.S. runds only. Please P.O. Box 20468, St. Petersburg, FL 33742. We allow approximately 4 weeks for delivery. Price subject to change. Name couldn't have said it better, R&T, and we appreci­ Address ate your confidence and support. ___ ZIP ____ ·,::ity ------State Dept. BK-I "ENTHUSIASM MAKES THE DIFFERENCE" 'UDB 40 Horological Times/December 1983 Find Out Far ¥ourself That IT PAYS TO ADVERTISE! AWi's promotion department has prepared a series of professional advertisements designed to help you sell your products and services to your community. Simply call your local newspaper, magazine, or service publi­ cation and ask them to add your name, address, and telephone number in the area provided. These ads mean business for you! NOTE: Ad layouts in the kits are approximately 50% larger than reduced versions used in this advertisement. Fine Watch Repair

Bring us your valuable w:uchcs for periodic service 10 maintain their accuracy and lo prevent premature wear. NOW• NEW• Our wa1chm<1kcrs are m..:m­ AVAILABLE! b<.'rs of 1hc AMERICAN SERIES "E"! On QUARTZ and WATCHMAKERS INST!- Other Fine Watches t)f µrolcssinnol • A Member of the American Watchmakers Institute­ yuahty • Your Assurance of Professional Quality Service scrvkc!

Oeeenr,/QJ/e FINE WATCH REPAIR ~· WATCH REPAIR WATCH REPAIR SERVICE Our quality service wlll restore the ~tt'f. accuracy of your fine watch O."' We can restore the accurate time­ keeping of your quartz or other fine watches. •~lod e rn All th€se •Heirloom very small Only an EXPERT Can Properly parts require •Anrique care - our specialized care Service Your Valuable TlmeplecHI •Ell'ctronic l •Quartl

A Member of THE AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE Your Assurance of Professional , First Qu ality Serv ice! A Member of the Your A~ur a n c c AMERICA N of WATCHMAKERS Profrssional INSTITUTE Quality Service!

There Are DOZENS ------, AWi is your assurance of •~ Watch ;~tterles! FINE WATCH REPAIR SERVICE!

- (£} .~ Members of the AMERICAN WATCH· MAKERS INSTITUTE ha ve acce ss to the finen resources for information on repairing AVAILABLE Only an EXPERT Can Properly Service Your • AVAILABLE• your fine watch They also have specialized Valuable Tlm1plece1I training which enables them to provide the TO IN • • • best in profess iona l adv ice and serv ice. We know which battery 11 correct for your PROOFSHEETS watch - and how to ln1tall it properly. AWi MEMBERS (For any offset ONLY printing service)

Member of the American W1tchm1k1r1 ln1tltute • • Is A Member of Your 111urance of profe11ional THE AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE quality 1ervice Your A11urance of Profe11ionel, Fir1t Quality Service! ·------~ Proofsheets - $1.50 each. The Entire Series (Proofsheets) ... $7.50 order from:Aw I AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS INSTITUTE P.O. Box 11011 Cincinnati, Ohio 45211 . News rn the Trade

new type of marketplace, accord­ development and marketing. He ing to JA Chairman Mike Roman. will be responsible for instituting Roman explained the many the marketing programs for a vari­ goals of this program, which are : ety of new consumer products W@®D© * To define and describe as well as working closely with the situation itself; our sales force in the jewelry, * To evaluate the damage dental, optical and industrial done by discounting; fields." * To offer, through a panel of retailers, possible solu ­ tions and methods of coping and competing. Moderator of this segment Jean-Pierre Savary, President of Bienne, Switzerland, before suc­ of the program will be Mitch The Watchmakers of Switzerland cessfully assuming his responsi­ Gilbert, publisher of "Accent Information Center, Inc. (WOSIC) bilities in New York in 1981. Magazine." After many year's has announced that Rodolphe M. Savary is resigning as Chair­ association with "Jewelers' Cir­ Schulthess, Executive Vice-Presi­ man of the Board of ETA In ­ cular-Keystone Magazine," during dent, has left to join Heuer Time dustries, Inc., New York, created which time he became well ac­ & Electronics Corp., Springfield, in January 1983. From now on quainted with the retail jewelers' NJ, as its Executive Vice-Presi­ he will devote all his time to business, he now, through Ac­ dent and General Manager. Schult­ WOSIC (now entirely financed by cent, is thoroughly knowledge­ hess spent two years at the head ­ the FH) as President and Ch ief able about the mass market mer­ quarters of the Federation of the Executive Officer. chants, who are most involved Swiss Watch Industry (FH) in in or concerned about "off­ Jean-Pierre Savary and Roldolphe M . Hess price." John Jay Hoh The Conference Program will begin promptly at 9:00 a.m ., following a free contin­ ental breakfast, sponsored by TIMEX APPOINTS Jewelers of America. Retailers J. W. BINNS and JA exhibitors are invited Timex announced recently the to attend. appointment of James W. Binns as Executive Vice President­ Operations. Mr. Binns joined Timex in 1977 as corporate L&R APPOINTS director of planning and held JOHN JAY HOH various executive positions of in­ MARKETING MANAGER creasing responsibility leading to Mr. James Lazarus, President of his most recent position of Vice L& R Manufacturing, a world President-Finance and Treasurer. leader in the manufacture of Mr. Binns received his ultrasonic cleaning systems and Bachelor and Master of Science solutions, announced the appoint­ degrees in Engineering from the ment of Mr. John Jay Hoh University of California at Los as Marketing Manager. Angeles and his Master of Busi­ Mr. Hoh most recently ness Administration from the served as Director of Marketing University of Southern California. JA'S FEBRUARY Theater, directly across from the for the Consumer Products Group CONFERENCE PROGRAM New York Hii ton Hotel. of the Lemmon Company where "The Off-Price Revolution & "Off-price"-or discount­ he was responsible for over the The Jeweler's Future" will be the retailing has come to the jewelry counter drug products. PAUL MULLEN timely topic covered at Jewelers industry in such force that ev­ tn announcing the appoint­ JOINS E&J SWIGART of America's 1984 February Con­ ery individual jeweler must make ment, Mr. Lazarus noted, "Jay COMPANY ference Program on Sunday, Feb­ major policy decisions on how comes to L&R with a strong, Mr. Paul Mullen has joined ruary 5, 1984 at the Ziegfeld to cope and compete in this successful history in product The E. & J. Swigart Company,

42 Horological Times/December 1983 Cincinnati, Ohio-based supplier to cises, role-playing, case studies, jewelers, watchmakers and clock­ etc. Tuition fee for eight weeks makers, as the Area Sales Repre­ is 3,200 Swiss francs (approxi­ sentative in Illinois. Mr. Mullen mately $1,600) . This new course received his Certificate of Hor­ is also being offered in German ology and Certificate of Jewelry language at the CFH in Laus­ from Gem City College in Quincy, anne from April 24 to June IL. Prior to joining Swigart's, 15, 1984. he worked as a watchmaker and The four-month Compre­ jeweler for Carson's Jewelry in hensive Course, now in its 8th Decatur, IL and for some time year, will again be offered in was a sales representative for 1984, July 2 to October 26. Gordon's Jewelers in Quincy, For detailed information, contact IL. Mr. Mullen is a member of CFH Institute, P.O. Box 206, the Illinois Watchmakers Associ­ CH-1001 Lausanne, Switzer­ ation and American Watchmakers land. Institute. He currently resides in Decatur, IL.

SEIKO PRESS TWO-MONTH CONFERENCE MOST MANAGEMENT COURSE SUCCESSFUL EVER FOR JEWELERS At a Seiko press conference On February 20, 1984 a new recently, Robert Pliskin, President English language course will start of Seiko, announced the intro­ at the CFH in Lausanne, Swit­ duction of Seiko's much-touted zerland, which focuses exclusive­ TV watch. ly on management themes. In More than 100 editors eight weeks of intensive study attended the press event in­ and practical work, three main troducing this technological won­ themes will be covered. They der, in addition to the world's Mary Decker, America's top middle distance female runner, are as follows: first LC digital quartz voice shows off her Timex Marathon Runner's Quartz. Part of the General Management-- recorder watch, and the most company's Sport-Quartz collection, the featured watch is light­ How to run the store effectively ; advanced runner's watch, the weight, water-resistant and has a backlight for night running. manager's personal effectiveness, Training Timer. Decker, along with Alberto Salazer, the fastest marathon communication, personnel man­ runner in history, have recently announced their support of agement and training; Timex products and will be featured in upcoming advertising Marketing Management-­ and promotional materials. How to promote sales; market­ Both Decker and Salazar are U. S. medal winner hope­ ing and product policies, shop fuls at the 1984 Summer Games - training with Timex timing fitting, advertising, sales promo­ to win the gold. tion and public relations; Financial Management-­ How to maximize profits and return on investment; balance KALICHMAN NEW V.P. and the Standard Watchmaker's sheet analysis, profit and loss AT HELBROS WATCHES Institute. A journeyman watch­ statements, profitability, budgets, He Ibros Watches Inc. recently maker, Kalichman is past presi­ investments, stock management, announced the promotion of dent of the Horological Soci­ computerization. Ralph Kalichman to Vice Presi­ ety of New York . He is a former Participants reaching the dent/Production. He joined Hel­ chairman of the Industry Advis­ required standard are awarded the bros in 1972 as director of ory Board of the Watch Materi­ CFH Diploma in Jewelry Store operations. al and Jewelry Distributors Asso­ Management. The course not only Kalichman has more than ciation and a long-time member offers expert knowledge, but also 35 years experience in the watch of the American Watchmakers provides practice in the form of Robert Pliskin, President of Seiko industry. He is a graduate of Institute. business games, simulation exer- Time Corporation Brooklyn Polytechnic Institute

December 1983/Horological Times 43 New Products and Literature

NEW CATALOG FROM S. LaROSE Howard Miller Introduces S. LaRose, Inc. released its An­ nual Catalog No. 181 recently. The catalog has 120 pages of standard and new items of inter­ Heritage Hill Collection est to the jeweler, watchmaker and clockmaker. Copies are avail­ able free of charge by writing: treatments, marquetry inlays and Howard Miller's new collection Frank Lloyd Wright's "Prairie." S. LaRose, Inc., 234 Commerce side hammer chime rods to is a salute to the Heritage Hill The fine craftsmanship, at­ Place, Greensboro, NC 27420. Foundation for its achievements tention to detail and quality of embellish the sound of triple in the preservation of this his­ materials of these homes is re­ chime movements. toric area in Grand Rapids, flected in the clocks of the new Suggested retail prices of Michigan. Within its 365 acres, Howard Miller collection: in im­ the Heritage Hill wall clocks are Heritage Hill contains homes that peccably finished mahogany cab · from $375 to $650. Contact: represent no less than BO architec­ inets, beveled glass, brass ac­ Howard Miller Clock Company, tural styles-from Georgian to cents, elegant dial and pendulum Zeeland, MI 49464. '

S. LaRose's new catalog

SEIKO'S LASSALE WATER-RESISTANT WATCH FOR MEN The new Seiko Lassale collec­ tion introduced this Fall is the most elegant to date, the com­ pany claims. Introduced were 24 additions including men's water-resistant models with calendar, luxurious his and her pair models and new ideas in bracelet construction and de­ sign. These selections, possessing the extraordinary quartz per­ formance synonomous with the name Seiko, are available through the company's nationwide net­ work of distributors.

Above left: Raised brass and etched silver detailing "McCabe-Marlow" wall clock by Howard Miller add to the intricately designed dial and pendulum has a magnificent key-wound triple chime move­ glass of the "McLeod" wall clock Howard Miller has ment resounding every 15 minutes with Westmin­ crafted of beautifully finished solid mahogany with ster, Whittington or St. Michael chimes. The solid fluted columns and marquetry inlays of ebony, mahogany case is meticulously crafted with fluted black walnut and maple. The brass Roman numer­ columns, glass sides, rare crotch mahogany on the al dial has solid brass hands, and the R-A pendulum pedimint, inlaid ebony and maple marquetry, and of the key-wound movement is polished brass. a hinged side access door. The pendulum glass is Vertical chime rods enhance the resonance of the hand beveled, the column caps and gallery rail are Whitti ngton, St. Michael and Westminster chimes solid brass, and the polished brass bezel is fitted that sound each quarter hour and count the hours. with a hinged convex glass crystal. The R-A insert The suggested retail is $495. of the pendulum complements the aged dial, and mounted beneath it is an etched and filled Above right: Photographed in a house in the brass pendulum scale. Suggested retail is $650. Some of Seiko's Lassale Heritage Hill historic district of Grand Rapids, the Watches

44 Horological Times/December 1983 L&R INTRODUCES dent and General Manager. Cur­ In a minimal amount of Bulova provides an advertising/ THE "L&R BATH" rent users of Wesley's Battery space, the angled display maxi­ promotion package which in­ L& R Manufacturing Company, Locator System can obtain free mizes the "Romantics" presen­ cludes counter cards, retail ads, a world leader in the manu­ updated replacement cards by tation and appeal by sharply radio scripts and promotional ide­ facture of ultrasonic cleaning sys­ contacting Wesley's Hotline at contrasting the rich goldtone as. tems and chemical solutions, is 800/44 7-6438 (800/322-2649 in watches against the black ele­ Each of the "Romantics" introducing a new product, the Illinois). gance of the display. Measuring highlights a diamond at 12 "L&R Bath," for consumer use. only 9" x 6", the display comes o'clock, set against grey, silver The L&R Bath features a unique complete with inter-changeable sun ray, gilt, champagne and black rotary sonic system, a removable header cards, and is available to dials. Suggested retail prices range tank and cover and starter solu­ PERMA-VAULrs all accounts who purchase the from $140 to $160. Contact: tion. The L& R Bath effective­ NEW IN-WALL SAFE five-watch "Romantics" collec­ Bulova Watch Co ., Bulova Park, ly cleans jewelry, dentures and Perma-Vault introduces a new tion . Flushing, NY 11370. eyewear quickly, safely and ec­ In-Wall Safe that is completely Along with the display, onomically. assembled and can be installed Attractively designed, the between 2" x 4" wall studs. L&R Bath complements any de­ The special design with recessed cor. Because it is battery oper­ lock mounts flush with the ated, the unit affords complete wall . This rugged, heavy duty portability and ease of oper­ In-Wall Safe provides security for ation. For more information, valuables that is both concealed contact: L&R Mfg. Co., 577 and convenient. If installed in the Elm St., Kearney, NJ 07032. wall, it can be hidden behind a mirror or picture; or it can be installed in a closet or in the floor. It is ideally suited for residential, commercial and in­ stitutional applications. For free literature, pricing and additional information, con­ tact Bonafide Factory Products, Inc., P.O. Box 473, Huntingdon Valley, PA 19006; phone 215/ 364-0330.

The new "Romantics" collection from Bulova.

L&R's new "L&R BATH," GRS CORP. DEVELOPS less time. It is designed for an ultrasonic cleaning solution. NEW JEWELRY both large jewelry manufacturers ENGRAVING TOOL and small custom shops," said Officials at G RS Corporation have Don Graver, President of GRS. WESLEY'S NUMBER announced development of a new A foot pedal precisely SYSTEM UPDATE engraving tool powered by com­ controls the impact power. Ad­ MODEL #WS-100 Wesley & Company has recent­ pressed air. The GraverMax power ditionally, the impact rate is ly updated their Battery Locator handwork system features three adjustable from 400-4,000 per In-Wall Safe from Perma-Vault Numbering System to reflect the pneumatic handpieces and can be minute. The GraverMax allows high volume of new battery types used for all types of jewelry hand precision and artistry with­ now available in the replacement BULOVA'S NEW making. Powered by compressed out hand fatigue. The com­ battery market. VALENTINE'S DAY air, the unit runs cool and quiet. fortable handpieces accept most "We really didn't antici­ GIFT WATCHES Stone setting, bright cut­ standard gravers so the pre­ pate having to update our loca­ The "Romantics," a new col­ ting, bead raising, and floren­ ferred tool can be used. tor cards this quickly, but the lection of all-goldtone ladies' tine finishing are ideal GraverMax Prices start below $700. rapid growth in our business quartz watches with diamond­ applications in jewelry making. For more information, write: sometimes requires that we res­ accented dials, has been intro­ "This tool makes it possible GRS Corp., P.O. Box 748, Em­ pond quickly to do the best job duced by the Bulova Watch to provide the same hand crafts­ poria, KS 66801, or call toll­ for our customers," remarked Co. for Valentine's Day and manship with each job, but with free: 1-800-835-3519. Tom Drake, Wesley's Vice Presi- other gift-giving occasions.

December 1983/Horological Times 45 Classified Ads

Regulations and Rates

Ads are payable in advance $.50 per word, $.60 per word in bold type. Ads are not commissionable or discountable. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. Price lists of services will not be accepted. Confidential ads are $4.00 additional for postage and handling. The first of the month is issue date. Copy must be received 30 days in advance. (e.g. February issue closes for copy on January 1st.)

Horological Times, P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, OH 45211 . (513) 661-3838.

CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING, Quality Crystal Fitting - All types - Glass, Tradesman repivoting, retoothing, escapement work. J.C. Plastic, Mineral, GS, Perfit and Genuine refills. Van Dyke, CMW, CMC, CMB HI , 1039 Rt. Spring bars and at good prices. Send 163, Oakdale, CT 06 370. for catalog and mailing label. Send work to: Crystal Fitters Inc., 21 North Street, Middle­ WATCH WHEEL CUTTING, REPIVOTING town, NY 10940. Phone 914-3434434. AND STAFFING CO. WE CAN REP AIR ANY WATCH, WE CAN MAKE ANY PART, IT IS JUST A MATTER OF ECONOMICS. SAS E DIAL REFINISHING, CRYSTAL FITTING & FOR PRICE LIST. SAME DAY SERVICE. 136 WATCH REPAIR. I ast services on dial re­ N. 7th Ave., P.O. Box 1314, High la nd Park, NJ For Sale finishing & crystal fitting. Finest quality. 08904. Tel. (201) 985-0685. Quantity works welcome. Send your works to: Kirk Dial & Crystal Co ., 4th & Pike Bldg., Suite 625 , Seattle, WA 98101. CLOCK REPAIRMEN - Over 2,000 items for the professional clock repairman. FREE DE­ 218 Accutron Repairs are no problem at LIVERY! Send $2.00 for catalog to: Time­ Larry Blanchard Service Co. We specialize in savers, Box 171 , Wheeling, IL 60090. 312- Tuning Fork and Analog Quartz repairs. 1821 3944818. Roosevelt Rd., Broadview, Illinois 60153. CLOCK WHEEL AND PINION CUTTING. 312-681-2369. Fast Service - Write for free brochure and price list. Fendlcys, 2535 Himes St., Irving, TX 75060. Cuckoo Clock Parts - New "Regula" move­ Need Quality Watch Repair? Will do mech­ ments. 1 day - $2 1.50, 8 day - $28. Includes anical and quartz analog. Fast Service. Work chains and hooks. All other cuckoo clock guaranteed. More information. Charles Bunkel­ parts stocked. Send SASE for list. Clock Doc, CLOCK an d MUSIC BOX parts, mainsprings, mann, 1410 Sunse t Ridge Dr. , West Bend, Dept. HT, 42 Birchwood Terrace, Nanuet, NY WI 53095. (414) 338-3770. material and tools. Custom made to order or 10954. repair of gears, pinions and parts. Catalog $2.00. Tani Engineering, Box 338, Atwater, OH 44201. (216) 94 7-2268.

Custom made Horological Parts and Tool Watchmaker Tools - Bench, two lathes, watch repair by: Precision Instrument, P.O. Box material. Ca ll for details after 6 p.m. 616- 94 7-15 77 . 70004, Charleston, SC 29405. Ph one 803- Wheels, pinions, barrels or whatever, repaired or 553-1198. made new. Repivot arbors. No watch parts. Ken Leeseberg, Ken-Way Inc., 19 W. 672 Army Trail, P.O. Box 219, Addison, IL 60101.

SECRETS of WHEEL and PINION CUTTING THE QUARTZ SPECIALISTS. All services on REVEALED. A $15.00 value! Send only Analog, LCD, LED, Accutron. Lowest prices $12.75 for three booklets from England while on batteries. Free information packet. McBee and Bead Restringing. All types. Fast supply lasts. You get: Wheel Cutting, E. Isaac s; Laboratories, 302-D So. 16th, Bozeman, MT service. Jean A. Gruenig, P.O. Box 12007, Chronos Wheel Cutting Engine Operating 59715. 1279 Inglis Ave., Columbus, OH 43212. Instruction s; Chronos Pinion Mill Operating Instructions. Ken Law, CMC ; Camp Wo od Route; Prescott, Arizona 86301.

Trade Watch Repair. 34 years experience. Fast CLOCK SER VICES wheels, gears, barrels, service. Modem equipment. Mechanical and retoothing, repivoting, mainspring winding, electronic. Write or call for price list. "BUD'S" bushing, jeweling. Send sample for estimate. Glass Domes-for anniversary clocks, 5Vz x 11 , WATCH REPAIR SERVICE, 3748 N. Ne w SASE. Roy H. Niegel, CMC, CMW, 21837 $5 .50 each, minimum order 3, add $1.00 England Ave., Chicago, IL 60634. (312) Woodbury , Cupertino, CA 95014. (408) each for shipping. Curiosity Shop, 2305 Buffalo MU5-9590. 2534927. Rd. , Rochester, NY 1H624.

46 Horological Times/December 1983 MINI QUARTZ MOVEMENTS. Guaranteed ESSEMBL-0-GRAF LIBRARY in 28 volumes, lowest prices. 2 year guarantee. Large selec­ Pittsburgh , 1955. Chronograph repairing is tion of hands and numerals. Free delivery. made easy by step-by-step procedure. Each Schools SASE or call (704) 333--0221. Hall Clock small step of removing and replacing each part Shop, 1512 Central Ave. , Charlotte, NC 28205. and makins adjustments is clearly illustrated. No concentrated study is necessary. $200. Correspondence courses in Quartz - Accutron - Write EOG , P.O. Box 11011, Cincinnati, Ohio Watchmaking - Jewelry. f.'ree folders. Watch­ 45 211. making Institute of Canada, 1012 Mt. Royal East, Montreal, H2J 1X6. Telephone (514) Metal cutting lathes, bench mills, drill presses, 523-7623. unimats (accessories also), Maximats, Sherline, Cowells, Enco, the Maximat Super Eleven. Lathe catalog $1.00. Precision tools inch or BE ALL THE CLOCKMAKER YOU CAN BE metric, aluminum, brass, steel, all shapes, WITH CHRONOS TOOLS. Wheel cutting miniature screws, taps, drills, saws, collets. engines start at $409 .00, $2 for catalog. KEN Wanted To Buy Tool catalog $1.00. Campbell Tools, 2100M LAW, CMC, Camp Wood Star Route, Prescott, Selma Road, Springfield, OH 45505. Phone AZ 86301. (513) 322-8562. Buying old Accutron coils 218, #715. $3.50 e•1ch. L.A.B. Service, Box 985 , Kokomo, Indiana 4690 I. Help Wanted CLOCK TIMER. Regulate your clocks elec­ tronically with the new C.T.I. Clock Timer. Can lMMEDIATF CASH PAID!' Old Mine and be used on almost any clock with mechanical Watchmaker for established 25 year business. Old European cut diamonds. Fspecially needed: escapement. Pendulum clocks large and small, Tools furnished. Plenty of work and housing. Stones over l carat. Ship with phone number lever or cylinder escapements, anniversary W. C. Warren, 651 West Main, Campbellsville, for highest offer, or call Mr. Neff, (404) 938- clocks, etc. For information write: Can Tho KY 42718 or phone 502-465-2955. 0744. \ . F. N. Enterprises, Inc., HT, 2300 Instruments, P.O. Box 80113, San Diego, CA Henderson Mill Rd., NF, Suite 318 , Atlanta, 92138. Georgia 30345.

Situations Wanted For Sale - Timing Machines, Watchmaster Tim­ ers, Vibrograph Timers. T'actory rebuilt. All STERLING FLATWARF STOCKS--new or machines guaranteed. Terms available. Also used needed. Call us before you sell for scrap. available Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Machines. Jeweler - Watchmaker, Gem City graduaie with Also wanted: silver, diamonds, gold scrap , Write Vibrograf sales representative Robert 2 years experience in the field. Interested in coins and coin collections. Call or write: Mr. Swensgard, 2630-A Jett Hill Road, New Rich­ getting into sales work with manufacture r or Neff, HT, WFN Enterprises, 2300 Henderson mond, Ohio 45157. Or phone (513) 553-2113 distributor, etc. John Burger, 168 E. Main St., Mill Rd., N.E. Suite 318, Atlanta, Georgia Territory Kentucky, Michigan, Ohio, Tennessee, Apt. 3, Northville, Michigan 48167. 30345. Phone 404-938-0744. and western Pennsylvania.

IMMEDIATE CASH PAID for Gold, Silver, Watchmaker seeking position in a trade shop or , any form! Jewelry scrap, filings , U.S. HEADQUARTERS FOR ALL SCHATZ jewelry store. Graduate of Parkland College gold filled, sterling! Immediate top dollar PARTS. PARTS FOR THE NEW 400-DA Y watch repair with additional courses in clock cash offer return mail! Satisfaction guaranteed. ELECTRONICS. ALSO FOR KUNDO ELEC­ repair, gemology, and jewelry repair. Reply to Ship insured/registered mail to: American TRONIC. GREENHILL CLOCK SERVICE, HT Box SW12831 , 3700 Harrison Ave., Cin­ Metals Co., 253 King St., Charleston, SC P.O. BOX 172, SANTEE, CA 92071. cinnati, Ohio 45211. 29401; (803) 722-2073.

BUY e SELL e HIRE e RELOCATE e LEARN e FIND

A Classified Ad in HOROLOGICAL Tllo1JES is an Inexpensive Way to Get What You Need!

December 1983/Horological Times 41 Dates To Remember Advertisers' Index

American Perfit ...... 4

Bergeon ...... 33 Borel Co .. . .. 17 Bowman School. . . . . 6 JANUARY 1984 FEBRUARY Bulova School .. . . . 26 7-10-Consumer Electronics Show; Convention 4-12-Tucson Gem Shows: American Gem Center; Hilton Hotel; Riviera Hotel; Trade Association, 4-9, Doubletree Ho­ Las Vegas, NV; (312) 861-1040. tel, (213) 888-5771; Gem & Lapidary Cas·Ker Co .. .. 35, inside front cover Wholesalers, 4-11 , Holiday Inn North CFI ...... 19 8-12-Atlantic City China & Glass Show; & Holiday Inn South, (601) 879-8832; Atlantic City Convention Center; At­ Gem Shows Inc., 4-11, Ramada Inn, lantic City, NJ; (212) 986-8000. (415) 223-3800; GLDA Inc. Tucson Gem Show, 4-12, Marriott Hotel, (602) Esslinger . . .3, 27 13-18-Bijorhca: International Jewelry, Clocks 742-5455; " US," 4-11, Sheraton Pueblo Eveready. . ... 7 and Gifts Exhibition; Pare des Exposi­ Inn, (602) 825-9115. tions; Porte de Versailles, Paris, France; (212) 869-1720. 5-Association of Women Gemologists' Annual Gem City School .. . . 35 Meeting; Palo Verde Holiday Inn; 14-The Twenty-Four Karat Club of New Tucson, AZ (713) 485-1606. Gould Co ...... 5 York Annual Banquet; Waldorf-Astoria Hotel; New York, NY; {212) 687- 19-24-Dallas Spring Jewelry Show; Dallas 0328. Market Center; Dallas, TX; (800) Indiana Jewelry .. . .•...... 26 442-1436 (in Texas); (800) 527-1451 14-16-Jewelers International Showcase; Miami (elsewhere). Beach Convention Center; Miami Beach, Jewelmont. ... • ...... 19 FL; (305) 255-6095. 25-26-Minnesota Watchmakers Association Convention; Radisson South Hotel; 17-Meeting of the Massachusetts Watch­ Bloomington, MN S. LaRose ...... 6 makers Assn., Inc.; Fenway Howard Johnson's Motor Hotel, 777 Memorial 26-29-AIME/IPMI Seminar on " Recovery & Dr., Cambridge, MA. Refining of Precious Metals;" Biltmore Marshall/Swartchild ...... 24-25 Hotel; Los Angeles, CA; (212) 625- 29-Meeting of the Watchmakers Assn. of 3339 Maxell .... . outside back cover Ohio; Marriott Inn East; Columbus, Mereminsky . . 10 OH. APRIL Mira Jewelers . 31 8-Spring Technical Seminar; Iowa Jewelers and Watchmakers Assn.; Des Moines Hyatt Hotel; Des Moines, IA; (515) Paris College ...... 38 448-4640

Seiko ...... inside back cover Select Sales . . . . . 21 Swest ...... 11

more difficult with this rack and snail striking mechanism CHIME AND STRIKE than with the locking plate type. A clock might strike only (Continued from page 33) eleven times at 12 o'clock, for example, and strike all the other hours correctly. The movement re-adjusts itself after most counting errors, unless the defect is severe enough to collet slightly. If only the hour (or the half) is off, try bending cause continuous striking or no striking at all . Listen for the strike lifting pin located on the cannon pinion. Be care­ any incorrect count, especially at 12 or 1 o'clock. After one ful not to distort the pin, or it may not lift and release the or two successful eight-day runs, the repair is considered com­ lever correctly. plete. Finish up by testing the movement for a week or two in the case . Detecting an intermittent strike defect may be

48 Horological Times/December 1983 Introducing S-451. It uses air pressure, not water. It's 3. Press start button. Seiko's small advance-you can fit it anywhere-that's a Electronically, S-451 evaluates water resistance by the tremendous improvement. No more removing tags, way the case-back and crystal 'give' toward each other bands, modules, movements. No more drying down under air pressure. In seconds, a tone sounds. A light afterward, no water seeping into watches. You get goes on: green/acceptable or red/unacceptable. accurate answers, and an added function-it tests Contact the Materials Sales Department. We'll be glad perspiration resistance. At a reasonable $513, S-451 to air all the facts for you. Seiko Material Department, quickly pays for itself. SSS West S7th Street, NY., N.Y. 10016. How does S-451 work? Easily. 1. Put the watch in. Close the door. SEIKO 2. Select 'Water Resistant' or 'Perspiration Resistant'. Setting the standard for the world, for the future.