The Weekend Workbench Take the Shortcut to Building a Stout, Cost-Eff Ecti Ve Work Center
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The Weekend Workbench Take the shortcut to building a stout, cost-eff ecti ve work center. Writt en by Jim Harrold and Chad McClung Designed by Jim Harrold Overall dimensions: 60"w x 24"d x 37"h For the up-and-comer Figuring Your Bench Height woodworker, this bench is a There’s no getti ng around it–tall woodworkers need a tall bench; must-build. I teamed up with short woodworkers, a short bench. And while most workbenches my art director, Chad McClung, (base and top combined) stand between 32" and 38" high, to build this full-service shop the rule for arriving at the ideal height is to measure from the workhorse. Materials run about crease of your wrist to the fl oor. Note that a too-low bench half the cost of a store-bought height can lead to backache. There’s also the issue of sitti ng bench with the same quality. It height, which you can adjust by choosing the right stool. consists of rock-solid hardware, a factory laminated top, and meaty maple rails, stretchers, In addition to the burly plywood shelves below the top and legs. Better yet, with the construction, I equipped the offer plenty of handy storage. plan provided, you can knock it bench with a front and end I bought plastic containers for out in a just a few days, provided vise and dog holes to provide keeping sanding and sharpening you have the bits, plywood, purchase on workpieces, both supplies at arm’s reach to and hardwood on hand. large and small. Two Baltic birch add to the bench’s utility. 28 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2015 Figure 1: Exploded View Drawing 1 #8 × 2 ⁄2" F.H. screw 1 9" vise #14 × 1 ⁄2" P.H. screws 1 1 ⁄2" hole w/1 ⁄4" 3 counterbore, 1 ⁄16" deep 1 #8 × 2 ⁄4" F.H. screw 3 1 ⁄8" washer ⁄2" washer 1 1 ⁄2 × 3 ⁄2" 3 1 lag screw ⁄8 × 2 ⁄2" lag screw 1 23 1 1 ⁄4" hole ⁄64" brass ⁄2 × 6" barrel nut bench bolts 1 ⁄2" washer 1 × 1" notch at corners in G 1 #8 × 1 ⁄4" F.H. screw 1 ⁄4" round-overs on all four corners 1 ⁄4" chamfer Figure 2: Parts Views Upper Right Rail Legs, Stretchers, and Rails 3 12 ⁄4" 1 2 ⁄2" 1 2 ⁄2" 5" 1 2 5 2 ⁄ " Cleats 4 ⁄8" 11" 3 3 ⁄8" hole ⁄8" 1 1 ⁄2" 7 6 ⁄16" 2" 2" 1 2 1 1 ⁄ " 2 ⁄2" 1 1 ⁄8" pilot hole 5 ⁄2" 1" 1 35 ⁄4" Leg Top Ends Back Back Key: left leg right leg BF = Back face 3 LF = Left face 2 ⁄4" BF BF RF= Right face 2" LF RF FF = Front face Show Show faces 2" faces 1 10 ⁄4" LF RF 1 8 ⁄4" 1 7 ⁄4" FF FF Front Front 3" left leg right leg Photos: Larry Hamel-Lambert; Illustrations: Melanie Powell Aug/Sept 2015 woodcraftmagazine.com 29 Figure 3: Leg Holes Marking Jig Stop 3 1 3 ⁄4 × 1 ⁄4 × 3 ⁄4" 1 7 ⁄4" Side face 1 8 ⁄4" F/B face 3" Fence 1 3 1 3 24 ⁄4" ⁄4 × 1 ⁄4 × 34 ⁄4" Side face A 3 F/B face Set the jig against the leg, and 32 ⁄4" Plywood drive the point of an awl through hole gauge 1 1 1 the holes in the jig to mark the ⁄4 × 3 ⁄4 × 35 ⁄2" 1 bolt holes for the leg. If needed, ⁄4" groove, 1 darken the indents with pencil. ⁄4" deep Nothing beats a a slightly smaller dimension. corner of a leg (A) and against its great set of legs 2 Group the four legs together, bottom end. Then mark the bolt 1 Buy 3 × 3" squares found in and mark their top ends, as hole locations for that leg face the Convenience-Plus Buying shown in the Leg Top Ends where shown in Figure 2 Guide for the blanks for the four Detail in Figure 2. When doing and as shown in Photo A. legs (A) shown in Figure 1. Or, so, have your best or “show” Turn the leg 90° and mark glue up thinner stock, and then faces facing to the outside. the bolt holes on the adjacent joint and plane the laminations 3 Make the Leg Holes Marking left or right outside face. 1 to achieve the 3 × 3" blanks. Jig in Figure 3. Lay out the hole 5 Install a 1 4" Forstner bit in Using a stop at the mitersaw, cut locations on one face of the jig. your drill press,⁄ set up a stop, 1 the leg blanks to the length in (I made a 1 2"-wide spacer out adjust the fence, and bore the 1 3 the Cut List, ensuring that the of scrap to mark⁄ the holes 1 2" bottom-most counterbores 8" ends are square. See the box on from the outside corners of the⁄ deep in the outside faces of the⁄ 1 page 28 for adjusting the bench legs.) Drill 16" holes through the legs where marked. Switch to a 1 to your ideal bench height. plywood at ⁄the marked locations. 2" brad-point bit, and drill the Note: A few of the purchased Label the holes on both faces through⁄ holes at this location, squares may display rough-sawn of the jig to avoid confusion. as shown in Photo B. Back surfaces or corners. If so, joint 4 Fit the marking jig snugly the workpiece with scrap to and plane all of the squares to against a front or back outside prevent tear-out. Adjust the B C 1 With the stop in place, drill the ⁄2" through holes in With the legs ganged together, use a hand- each leg, centering the bit in the counterbores. Back held router, chamfer bit, and straightedge the bit out as needed to clear the flutes of debris. guide to chamfer the bottom edges. 30 woodcraftmagazine.com Aug/Sept 2015 D Secure the doweling jig on the end of a E stretcher or rail, aligned with the layout Using the bench bolts, attach the rails 1 line. Bore a ⁄2" hole, 3" deep. and stretchers to the legs. stop and repeat the procedure lower stretchers or rails. Using locating the supports. Now, drill 1 for the remaining holes. a doweling jig and a 2" bit, bore centered countersunk clearance Clamp the four legs together the end holes in the stretcher holes in the shelf supports. 6 ⁄ side by side, ensuring that the (B) and rails (C), where marked and as shown in Photo D. Assemble the base 1 router and a 4" chamfer bit with 4 Cuing off the layout lines for and add the top bottoma bearing, ends rout are the flush. bottom Using edges. a the stretchers (B) and rails (C) Gather the legs (A), stretchers ⁄ 1 (I used a straightedge guide to and referring to Figure 2, (B), and rails (C), and bolt the 1 prevent the bits bearing from drill the 1 8" through holes parts together, as shown in dipping into the chamfered edges for the barrel⁄ nuts. Photo E and where shown in 1 and cutting beyond the planned 5 Using a 8" round-over bit, Figure 1. Attach the rails to chamfered edges.) Remove the ease the outside⁄ edges of the the legs before attaching the clamps, rotate each leg 90°, stretchers (B) and rails (C). stretchers by holding the barrel 6 Referring to Figure 2, lay out nut centered in the through hole Again, rout the bottom edges, and jigsaw or bandsaw the notch while threading the bolt in its asflush shown the ends,in Photo and Cre-clamp.. Repeat for in the top right-hand rail (C) to the remaining bottom edges. accommodate the end vise. with the ends of the legs. To 7 Using a router equipped 7 Cut two top rail cleats (D) to ensurehole. Install proper the positioning top rails flush of the 1 with a 4" round-over bit, rout the size listed in the Cut List. remaining rails and stretchers, the long⁄ edges of each leg. Referring to the dimensions in strike lines on the inside faces of 3 Figure 2, lay out the 8" slots and the legs indicating the top edges. through holes in the parts. Drill Using a spacer equal to the Make the stretchers, rails, ⁄ 2 3 cleats, and shelf supports 8" holes in the end of the laid out shelf thickness, position the Mill enough maple stock to slots and the hole locations. Using shelf supports (E, F) so that the 1 ⁄ 1" thick (or slightly under if a jigsaw or scrollsaw, cut out the starting with 1"-thick stock) for waste between the slot holes. edges of the stretchers (B) and the front and rear stretchers Now, glue and screw the cleats railsshelves (C). sit Clamp flush thewith supports the top 1 (B) and the rails (C). Cut the to the top inside edges of the top in place, drill 8" pilot holes stretchers and rails to the into the rails, and⁄ then join the 1 1 dimensions in the Cut List. 8 Cut enough 1 × 1 4" material parts with glue and #8 × 1 4" Lay out the hole locations forrails, the flushing front/rear the topshelf edges. supports screws, as shown in . 2 ⁄ Photo ⁄F in the ends of the stretchers (E) and the side shelf supports 3 Measure the openings for and rails, where shown (F).